Issue 3 Issue TheThe International digitalPaddler magazine for recreational paddlers .co.uk

Mexico By Seth Ashworth France of the Rio Coypisa By David Truzzi Franconi BOLIVIAN Bolivia By Simon Chapman first DESCENT Australia By Chris Scott Central Europe By Sandy Robson Nepal By Beth Ettinger Sea Fishing By Simon Everett Recon review By Phil Carr

Tracking the PACKRAFTSFitzroy River inAUSTRALIA

How to plan a whitewater DROPPINGkayaking expedition into MEXICO

Contents November 12

Editor Advertising Sales Front cover: Peter Tranter Anne Egan Seth Ashworth taking a dive by Mathias Fossum. [email protected] Tel: (01480) 465081 Huge thanks to: Tel: (01480) 465081 [email protected] Seth Ashworth, Mathias Fossum, Will Hartman, Mob: 07411 005824 Lukas Strobl, Robert Machacek, www.thepaddler.co.uk Dave Truzzi-Franconi, Simon Chapman, https://www.facebook.com/ Phil Carr, Chris Scott, Sandy Robson, ThePaddlercouk Patrick Kinsella of Paddlemag magazine, http://www.linkedin.com Simon Everett and Andy Grimes. /pub/peter-tranter/36/bb8/134

Not all contributors are professional writers and photographers, so don’t be put off writing because you have no experience! Thepaddler.co.uk magazine is all about paddler to paddler dialogue: a paddler’s magazine written by paddlers. Next issue is December 2012 with a deadline of submissions on November 30th. Technical Information: Contributions preferably as a Microsoft Word file with 1200-2000 words, emailed to [email protected]. Images should be hi-resolution and emailed with the Word file or if preferred, a Dropbox folder will be created for you. ThePaddler.co.uk magazine encourages contributions of any nature but reserves the right to edit to the space available. Opinions expressed in this magazine are not necessarily those of the publishing parent company, 2b Graphic Design. The publishing of an advertisement in ThePaddler.co.uk magazine does not necessarily mean that the parent company, 2b Graphic Design, endorse the company, item or service advertised. All material in ThePaddler.co.uk magazine is strictly copyright and all rights are reserved. Reproduction without prior permission from the editor is forbidden. Issue 3

Where we’ve been… 6 Mexico Mexico How to access the white waterfall’s paradise 06 that is Mexico. By Seth Ashworth 20 Other Mexico stories One from the archives. By David Ashplant 22 French Riveira Dave and his crew set off for a rendezvous with super yachts and casinos. France 22 By David Truzzi-Franconi 36 Bolivia Simon extols the virtuesofthe pak canoe as he manages to dodge insects and Peccaries on this frist descent of the Rio Coypisa. By Simon Chapman 60 Australia Tracking the remote Fitzroy River in Western Australia - in Packrafts. Bolivia 36 By Chris Scott 71 Other Australian stories Walking with sharks. By Chris Scott 72 Central Europe Tracking the paddle strokes of Oskar Speck’s 1932 expedition from Europe to Australia. Part one. Australia By Sandy Robson 60 80 Nepal Twelve young people from east London make a difference to the local people and find something about themselves. By Beth Ettinger 90 Other Nepal Stories Two from the archives. By Kevin Stainthorpe and Central Europe The Big Banana waterfall, Dave Burne 72 Mexico by Seth Ashworth 92 Sea fishing Getting started.. Simon Everett Regulars… 4 Foreword Access denied. By Peter Tranter Nepal 80 46 Coaching Incident management and safety. By Andy Grimes 48 First paddle Phil Carr puts the Wave Sport Recon through its paces in the first UK review. 54 Testing, testing 123 Top kit reviewed.. ThePaddler 3 ThePaddler 4

Peter Tranter Access denied Editor To the rest of the world, it may seem a little strange that recreational paddlers are denied access on the nation’s rivers throughout England and Wales. It reminds me of Muhammed Ali’s story about his return to the US after winning Olympic Gold in Tokyo 1964 – when he was denied a burger in a restaurant due to his skin colour. Here after a glorious Olympics when Team GB paddlers won two gold medals, a new and enthusiastic group of paddlers heading for the river are told to ‘get off’ by land owners. Amazingly, only two per cent of our rivers are free of restrictions! So paddlers in England and Wales have come together and formed a new campaign to tackle the issue in a more direct way. For all you paddlers out there in the rest of the World, please read on. That by the way includes our Scottish neighbours who do have a statutory public right of navigation!

The website invites those that contest the public right of navigation to challenge A new campaign has been launched with the objective November saw the submission of a petition to the these assertions of gaining recognition that there is, and always has been, a House of Commons making similar claims and public right of navigation on all rivers in England and challenging DEFRA’s policy for most unregulated rivers, and in particular Wales subject only to the physical constraints of the river which is that canoe access requires the agreement of to say which and the size and nature of the craft using them. riparian owners. legislation or ‘River Access For All’ has been well received by paddlers “The Petitioners therefore request that the House of and wild swimmers who have welcomed the clarity of Commons urges the Department for Environment, exercise of the campaign’s key assertions which are: Food and Rural Affairs to adopt a policy for navigation on unregulated watercourses which is consistent with statutory 1. “Historically, there was a general public right of current legislation or explain by what authority the authority ended navigation on all rivers subject only to the physical Department holds a contrary policy.” the historic right constraints of the river and the size/nature of the craft using them.” A report on the campaign’s website, commenting on of navigation. 2. Mr Justice Lightman (in the case Josie Rowlands v the petition, says, “It will be interesting to see DEFRA’s No such Environment Agency, 2002) said “Public Right of response. Will they: Navigation may only be extinguished by legislation or • Identify the legislation or exercise of statutory challenge has exercise of statutory powers or by destruction of the authority which extinguished the historic public right been received. subject matter of PRN e.g. through silting up of the of navigation? watercourse.” • Concede that there is no such legislation or exercise 3. Other than specific Navigation Acts, there has been of statutory authority and therefore the public right no legislation or exercise of statutory powers which of navigation still exists? has extinguished the general public right of navigation. • Dodge the question with evasion and obfuscation? 4. Therefore there is a common law public right of • Introduce new legislation like the Land Reform navigation on all rivers where the situation has not (Scotland) Act, 2003 to confirm that there is a public been changed by specific Navigation Act(s). right of navigation which can be responsibly exercised The website invites those that contest the public right of subject to an outdoor access code as in Scotland?” navigation to challenge these assertions and in particular More information on ‘River Access For All’ to be found to say which legislation or exercise of statutory authority at: ended the historic right of navigation. No such challenge has been received. www.riveraccessforall.co.uk

ThePaddler 6 Left: dropping in on Will Hartman Twisted Pleasure, Lower Jalacingo

You may have seen Mexico depicted in the Rush Sturges film ‘Frontier’ and ‘Source’ as a warm, waterfall paradise. Perhaps you

have read about it in magazines and on the internet as well. You

may even have looked into organizing a trip of your own but

have been a bit stumped by the lack of data available. Well this

article is here to help you get your act together and have one of the best and steepest kayaking holidays you can imagine Howto plan a whitewater

ilH i l Jli l J L d Pl i T i i d Will H f L kayaking holiday to the… Right: Seth Ashworth paddle huck and tuck on cascada TruchasJalacingo cascada on Ashworthtuck and huck paddle Seth Right:

waterfallof paradise

By Seth Ashworth Photos by SethMexico Ashworth,

Mathias Fossum, f Will Hartman, Lukas Strobl . and Robert Machacek ThePaddler 7 ThePaddler 8

main Thereareas for kayakingare in Mexico,two Veracruz state and Chiapas. While both are beautiful and contain some stunning whitewater, they are not usually paddleable at the same time of year, so realistically you can’t do it all in one trip. The characteristics of each area is different, Chiapas has unique travertine rock which is very grippy, whilst Veracruz has a smoother more slippery rock type. Veracruz has the biggest variety of different runs, concentrated together in a small area, whereas whitewater kayaking in Chiapas is more spread out, usually requiring days of traveling between rivers. The following will help you plan a trip to Veracruz, which is ideal for shorter holidays as you can really make the most of your time.

Who should you go with? If you are not too keen on the idea of traveling solo around Mexico then you are going to need to find yourself a killer crew to travel and paddle with. Because of the steep and often committing nature of Mexican Whitewater you and your friends should ideally be comfortable on Grade 4/4+ with a view to paddling on more difficult whitewater or making some tricky portages. Try to keep your group to three or four, or multiples of this, as it will make it easier in terms of vehicles.

When should you go? Whitewater in Veracruz is totally dependent on the amount of rain that falls during the rainy season. This rainy season lasts from August to September meaning that the safest time to book for is between October and January. However it is possible that, if the rainy season was particularly wet, October could see water levels generally very high. Or if the rainy season was fairly dry, all the best water could be gone by January. There are a variety of runs that are still great with very high water as well as numerous possibilities for exploration. Furthermore at the lowest water it is still possible to make it down many of the classics, it just wont be as much fun. Therefore a safe bet for your holiday should be around the November/December. Two to four weeks gives optimal time to paddle many different sections.

Chiapas has unique travertine rock which is very grippy, whilst Veracruz has a smoother more slippery rock type comfortable on Grade 4/4+ Your friends should ideally be

Mattias Zeiner styling cascada Truchas ThePaddler 9 ThePaddler 10

What will the weather be like?

Six of one & t The creeking hub of Tlapacoyan is in the mountains and can go from lovely hot sunshine to cold rain in a few hours. Seth Ashworth, Dane Jackson, As a result take shorts and Todd Richey and sunblock as there will be Will Hartman plenty of hot days, but don’t around the top spots on the upper be surprised if you have to Jalacingo, and Roadside Alseseca wear trousers, a jacket, socks and shoes a little more often than you would like. ThePaddler 11 ThePaddler 12

Where do

I stay?

Half dozen of Aventurec is a Tlapacoyan based raft company with options for camping, hostel, or cabins, depending on how fancy you feel. I stayed in the hostel during my stay. The hostel is a good basic option, which is dry and provides light, power and a mattress (bring your own sleeping bag). It also keeps you away from a large number of biting insects. Aventurec also has a delicious and moderately priced breakfast option, which will fill you up for a full day on the river, without even thinking about eating until nightfall. the otherThePaddler 13 ThePaddler 14

How do I get there? For my trip I flew from the UK with charter airline Thomas Cook to Cancun, then made a long (25hr) bus transfer to the town of Tlapacoyan, which is the heart of classic Veracruz creeking. Alternatively fly to Mexico City, which is just four hours away from Tlapacoyan. However, Iberia (and a few other airlines) will only take windsurf equipment and not kayaks. This means it is vital to pack your boat in a careful disguise which, is both visually deceptive and looks time consuming to wrap/unwrap thereby discouraging the person at the check in desk from taking a closer look at it.

How do I get to the river? You are going to need a car of some description. Car hire is available from the larger cities. In order of distance from Tlapacoyan these are Xalapa (sometimes written Jalapa), Veracruz, Puebla and Mexico City. If you get a selection try to get something with a strong engine, good tyres and a high clearance. If the selection is not so great then just ensure your boats all fit on top and be prepared to walk up some of the steepest hills. Don’t worry about high fuel costs of an American style, big engined vehicle as petrol is around 50p per litre. Some rivers will only require a short shuttle, usually with a possibility to run/hitch. Others will require a driver, however these are available from Aventurec for a nominal fee.

How do I get river information? The most accurate guidebook that featured a range of good quality runs, including useful information was the ‘River Gypsies guide to North America’. You will also find some good info on wikipaddle.org. Furthermore Antonio, the owner of Aventurec is a wealth of knowledge of the local area and knows most of the put-ins and take-outs.

Cars: try to get something with a strong eng not so great then jus wa Don’t worry abo big engined vehicle Will Hartman watches as Todd Richey fires up the cascada San Pedro to eat? WhatEating out in Mexico is the norm as it costs very little, and gets you out of cooking, which after a long day on the river will be the last thing you want to do. Mexican food can be delicious but take care and choose wisely when selecting a place to eat. Typical Mexican cuisine usually includes some kind of meat, refried beans, usually onions in some form, rice and corn tortillas. Corn tortillas are a staple and served with every meal, if you are not a big fan of tortillas, Mexico might not be the place for you. There are options to eat more of a range of food from all over the world, but the local food is really good. Most food seems to be fried, or grilled and is fairly greasy. Vegetarians who eat fish will have a lot of options, but those who don’t may have to look around more carefully for veggie options. A big variety of fresh fruit and

ine, good tyres and a high clearance. If the selection is st ensure your boats all fit on top and be prepared to alk up some of the steepest hills out high fuel costs of an American style, e as petrol is around 50p per litre.

ThePaddler 15 ThePaddler 16

What kit to take?

The obvious: a creek boat A breakdown paddle and first-aid kit (at least one between your group).

Throwline: 15m or longer is essential to help on some of the portages.

A dry/semi dry cag: although the weather is generally warm, some of the gorges are deep and dark.

Shorts: I prefer neo-lined shorts for extra warmth round my important bits!

Sturdy shoes: there is some walking, scrambling and climbing about.

A spare paddle: I saw a surprising amount of broken paddles.

Elbow pads: I ended up buying some from another paddler after repeated knocks.

Solid helmet: if you are as good looking as me – you may even consider a full face!

Some decent thermals: including one for the legs, which will help on cooler days and in areas with many biting bugs.

A camera: because nice photos to show your mum are almost guaranteed.

Putting on below the Big Banana waterfall ready for a day of fun

ThePaddler 17 ThePaddler 18 Asir stomping down on cascada Truhas

ThePaddler 20

Top tips safe? Don’t drink the water: There is a lot of Is it Mexico is represented in the news as being pollution in Mexico, don’t drink the river water extremely dangerous, with instability between or water from the tap. Only drink bottled water drug cartels and the government. Now I am not and also use this to brush your teeth and wash saying there is no danger, but with a little your vegetables (if applicable). common sense you will be able to keep your nose clean. Avoid driving at night and try not to Learn some Spanish: Not many people in make yourself stand out more than you already Mexico speak English so some key phrases are do (there aren’t really any other gringos in essential and the more you understand the easier Tlapacoyan – so you will stand out!). Don’t it becomes. move round with huge amounts of cash, or Learn some Americanisms: There is a lot of valuables and you should stay trouble free. In my kayakers from USA who go to Mexico each year 10 weeks of traveling there I was only stopped at and if you don’t listen carefully you may two checkpoints whilst driving and never had to misunderstand what they are telling you. pay a police bribe. Seriously, somedays it is like another language. Don’t be surprised if its not always sunny. How much will it cost? Living expenses once you are there are anything Expect to be sick at least once: The D catches from £50-150 ($75-225), (60-180 Euros) per everyone at least once. Just expect it and take week depending on how much you live. some medicine with you.

California dreaming By David Ashplant Photos: Gary Luhm Imagine kayaking in a place where the water is turquoise and so clear you can see hundreds of tropical fish beneath you and if you are lucky a blue whale – the largest living creature on the planet. This is the reality of kayaking in Baja California, the narrow 800 mile Mexican peninsula south of the much better known American California, with the Pacific ocean on the west side of the peninsula and the Sea of Cortez on the east side. It is estimated a third of the world’s whale and dolphin populations live, or at least spend the winter months, in the Sea of Cortez.

To read further visit: http://www.thepaddler.co.uk/expmexico.html BCU COURSES TRY BEFORE YOU BUY! PaddlePower, BCU 1-3 Star, FSRT Over 60 demo boats for

you try for FREE! BCU INSTRUCTOR COURSES

4 Star Leadership, Buy online or visit BCU/UKCC Level 1 & 2 Coach, our store for some and coaching modules KAYAKING! exciting Christmas KIDS ACTIVITY HOLIDAYS CANOEING! TUNNELLING! offers and our Activity days and weeks for the clearance holidays, for 8-16 years, from LOW ROPES! promotion just £20! RAFT BUILDING! HIGH ROPES! CORPORATE DAYS, PARTIES & CLIMBING! PRIVATE BOOKINGS We cater for all events and will tailor to ABSEILING! your needs. Call the Centre for more ARCHERY!! information ! WOODMILL CANOESHOP.CO.UK WOODMILL.CO.UK 02380 915740 | [email protected] 02380 915746 | [email protected] WOODMILL LANE, SWAYTHLING, SOUTHAMPTON, SO18 2JR

ThePaddler 21 ThePaddler 22 There is a very easy way to return from go there with a large one. Or… maybe not!

The Riviera pa David Truzzi-Franconi, Sim m a casino with a small fortune:

Simon King and Steve Seinet-Martin Simon off King Monte and Carlo Steve Seinet-Martin addlers mon King and Steve Seinet-Martin

ThePaddler 23 ThePaddler 24

Our Van drew to a stop at 5.50am in the deserted Piazza Marconi in Ventimiglia, Italy where the dawn mist was lifting off the sea ahead of us. We had driven nearly a 1,000 miles from home overnight and were pleased to see the adjacent cafe opening an hour later. Fortified we headed west along the Ligurian coast and past the border with France at Grimaldi – home to our distant ancestors whose cave homes pierced the Balzi Rossi or Red Cliffs. BY DAVID TRUZZI-FRANCONI

some This stretch hadconcern whenproduced planning the trip due to the lack of get outs in adverse conditions. However, we slid over the dark indigo seas, where the continental shelf is at its narrowest and plunges to considerable depths. Mid day brought us to some contemporary cliff dwellings as the serried ranks of ochre coloured houses of the Italianate town and French lemon capital of Menton, rose from the sea. We were too late for the lemon festival and had to content ourselves with a refreshing but caustic glass of fresh lemon juice. The beaches on this coast shelved steeply and to launch or beach involved jumping in or out of the water and riding the waves. By late afternoon we entered the Baie de Roquebrune having rounded Cap Martin, a rocky headland full of Aleppo and Maritime pines, with villas jutting out arrogantly from every promontory. It was now time for the search for somewhere to camp for the night. To begin, we had studied Admiralty Charts, Michelin maps and Google Earth and marked possible areas for a night’s wild camping using the tried and tested technique of arriving David Truzzi-Franconi and Steve Seinet-Martin near Cap Martin. late and leaving early with no trace. Simon King in front of the Oceanographic Institute Monte Carlo

ThePaddler 25 ThePaddler 26

of Monte Carlo where the lights of We pulled up shortthe super yachts were twinkling in the twilight. A bag of wine was cooled in the sea whilst we dragged the boats up the beach and unloaded our tents, which erupted into shape and we had a home for the night. We left early the next morning and soon we had Monte Carlo and Monaco on our beam the where the skyline looked like an American City. Passing Porte Hercule, we cruised beneath the 300ft high Oceanographic Institute set into the rock – Jacques Cousteau was for many years its Director. Entering the more approachable Porte de Fontvieille we passed beneath a rock amphitheatre verdant with cacti agave and aloes, the harsh calls of a magpie type bird echoed off the rock. Nosing our way to the slip we got out and stretched our legs we were in Monaco! As we left we had to skirt the buoyed exclusion zone around the heliport forcing us to enter a confused and lumpy sea caused by the wash of motor yachts and the downdraught of helicopters. As we left we had to skirt the Most of the coast here is an intensely developed strip between the mountains usually shrouded buoyed exclusion zone around the in mist and the sea. We landed at Plage de heliport forcing us to enter Marquet for a couple of beers before continuing onward passing capes a'Ail and Rognoso and the Pointe de Cabuel. This coast is the home of luxury yachts each with their own helicopter a confused and lumpy pad and smaller recreational boats and sailing sea caused by the wash of motor yachts yachts waiting to be craned into the water with most flying red ensigns. We snuck into the and the downdraught of helicopters exclusive resort of St Jean Cap Ferrat fully aware of our 16 feet and 12 inche

Simon King at St Jean Cap Ferrat. David Truzzi-Franconi and Simon King off Cannes s freeboard and waited for dusk to fall and the wine to cool, whilst parakeets settled down for the night in the palm trees. The bay was a mass of mooring lanterns and the headlands draped in lights. We were awoken by the beach cleaners each beach we landed on had its pile of white quartz sand waiting to be spread in readiness for the start of the season and would soon be covered in Above: Loaded van at sun loungers and parasols making us far less La Napoul welcome, but we were early in the season and Left: David Truzzi- shared the beach with a few locals. All the way Franconi cooking at along this coast a flash of silver would betray the Palm Beach near presence of the railway as it burrowed through Cannes headlands and passed behind the beachfront houses. Today our first task was to paddle along the Cap Ferrat peninsula to Pointe Saint-Hospice to assess the sea state at the point. The waves were two feet high but at short intervals with white caps in the distance, we decided we could end up in a situation where we could not move forward but unable to turn back, so we did, while we could, re-trace our steps back to the isthmus at Beaulieu sur Mer and set out to recce the portage it was possible.

ThePaddler 27 ThePaddler 28

David Truzzi-Franconi and Simon King portaging Cap Ferrat.

We

hauledcanoes uphill in the heat andloaded bemused traffic and across a busy road junction before the downhill section. We then carried the canoes one at a time down a long flight of steps and subsequent trips with our gear took most of the morning, asking a lady if she could move while we launched into the Rade de Villefranche. She confirmed that today Cap Ferrat was tres tres dangereux, our caution vindicated we paddled across the bay in search of coffee. The bay was temporary home to two cruise liners and their attendant ferries to shore. Entering the small harbour and heading for the slip we were waved away by the Port Captain and our registration numbers taken by a minion – so much for Villefranche, although we were all flying the Union Jack as it was the Queen's Diamond Jubilee! We left skirting the surreally named Pointe des Sans-Culotte and then the Cap de Nice, waved on and given the thumbs up from a group of youngsters engrossed in hurling themselves off a cliff and climbing up again to repeat the exercise. We gave a wide berth to the Corsica Ferry and into the port of Nice, capital of the French Riviera and home to Dufy and Matisse. We enjoyed a pleasant afternoon coasting the promenade des Anglais and its palms, passing the private beaches in front of the hotels; we managed a stop before the three-mile paddle around Nice airport and its buoyed exclusion zone. David Truzzi-Franconi in front of Chateau at La Napoul near the mouth of the River Siagne

Entering the small harbour and heading for the slip we were waved away by the Port Captain and our registration numbers taken by a minion – so much for Villefranche

David Truzzi-Franconi and Steve Seinet-Martin on the beach at Ventimiglia.

The sea at this point was covered in the aptly named 'By the wind sailors' – small translucent discs of jelly tinged violet at the edges with a small ridge across the back, at the mercy of the wind and current causing mass strandings. Being slightly more evolved we were swept by the River Le Var along the coast and stopped for a break. On seeing the front was full of marquees – it was an alternative fair, dwarves extolling the virtues of recycling soon accosted me, it was time to grab a yoghurt and go. We headed for a spot we had earmarked for camping at Cagnes sur Mer home of Renoir near where the River Loup debouched into the sea. Truzzi-Franconi and Simon King entering Porte de Fontvieille

ThePaddler 29 ThePaddler 30

found beach packed with bathers so we could hop Our firstus surrounded attempt by rats! Moving on, we ashore for some water and provisions. Leaving eventually tucked under the promenade where the beach found us heading for our most scores of rollerbladers, cyclists and the challenging paddle yet, that of the Cap inevitable joggers, all took advantage of the d’Antibes. It has a blunt tip three quarter mile wide promenade. It had been a 16-mile day wide of exposed rock with outlying rocks and and we were pleased to settle down for the shoals, cutting between the headland and the night. We awoke to day four of our trip on the exposed rocks into a headwind and a short Sunday and waited to cross Antibes Harbour steep sea on our quarter. This often meant entrance as a stream of classic yachts sailed out paddling out to sea to ride the waves head on – contestants in the Panerai Yacht race. before picking a spot to turn and head along On crossing and rounding the corner we the coast again, usually with a wave trying to forced a wedge with our canoes into a small climb in over the side. It was a long and slow

David Truzzi -Franconi posing in front of Menton Leaving the beach found us heading for our most haul taking an hour before we managed to challenging paddle yet, turn and head for Juan les Pins surfing on the that of the Cap d’Antibes now following sea and then a beam sea as we paddled along the coast looking for a place to stop for the night. We washed up outside the Buddha Bar for a few... actually a lot of beers and Moules, Steak Tartare etc. At this point a crewmember from one of the yachts told us the forecast for the morning: strong winds of 25mph due to increase at 9am tomorrow. Our alarms set for 5am we retired, launching into a cool and calm morning we worked our way up the coast passing inside the Lerin Islands as we reached Cannes at 8am. The wind freshened to force 3 to 4 and we had to claw our way around the point to a bay in the lee of the wind at Palm Beach home to a Casino. We made a shelter in the Tamarisk and prepared to sit the storm out it was now 5 to 6 with white horses all across the bay of Cannes. The wind veered forcing us to drag the canoes through the sand to get in the lee of the wind once more on the other side of the bay here it was very hot and still. Simon went into town dodging the Lamborghinis to find the tourist centre and managed to get a rail timetable for our return journey to the van and the information that a campsite existed 25 miles away in La Napoul. I decided to cook that evening and headed into the shops for supplies. I had spotted a fishmongers called La Pescaille-Poissons de ligne-Coquillage et Crustaces. We bought two fine fish – a Dorade Gris, a type of Bream and a wonderful red Rockfish beautifully prepared and sealed in foil bags. I lit the two disposable barbecues I had bought in England and when the flames and smoke died down lay them on the mesh. Whilst they sizzled I made a fennel sauce with some white wine a large moon hung in the sky and the lights of the Ile Sainte Marguerite and its Fort light up the dusk. We had only covered four miles that day.

Slip at Porte de Fontevielle in Monaco. ThePaddler 31 ThePaddler 32

we enjoyed the rest of the journey from the top deck rolling into Ventimiglia in the early evening. we paddled the large We found the van untouched, drank a farewell curve of the Bay of Cannes, stopping for Next morning coffee in our beach cafe and in two hours arrived breakfast before cruising a parallel course to the back at the campsite. Heading home next day Croissette and its Palm trees with the continuous battling against driving rain and headwinds we honking of car horns to mark a wedding jarring pulled off into Beaune for a meal, as it was the day. At one stop some locals came to inspect Steve's Birthday. We drew our chairs up in le the canoes, not having seen one on these shores Bistrot Bourguignon and the cork was pulled out and were interested to know about them. We of a bottle of local wine-SALUT! headed for La Bocca and La Napoul, hoping for a shower that night, eventually stopping at a secluded beach whilst two of us went to find the campsite on foot, booked us in and found it had a slipway off the river! Setting off and turning into the mouth of the River Siagne we passed a small chain ferry to take golfers from one links to another! And then off

to the left tributary and found our slip-hot David Truzzi-Franconi and Simon King off Menton. showers and a restaurant meal followed. A trip downriver to the Chateau the following morning and up to the station to book our tickets to Ventimiglia that afternoon a visit to the patisserie and the boulangerie and we were off on a sleek double-decked train to collect the van. We hopped of at Antibes to explore for a while and again at Monte Carlo so Simon could fulfil an ambition to play the tables. We had smartened up but still expected to be turned away, however, we entered the vast ornate entrance and found the dress code to be relaxed. Simon however wanted to enter the inner sanctum so bought a day’s membership, which gave entrance to the terrace, private rooms and the right to lose his money and pay £15 for a gin and tonic. However, Simon emerged triumphant holding a 10-euro token and still had his original stake! Reboarding the train

holding a holding Beach camp near Monte Carlo. triumphant original stake! original 10-euro token token 10-euro However, Simon emergedSimon However, his had still and Your paddles and travels To advertise on this page email: [email protected]

TAKE TO THE WATER IN A CANOE OR KAYAK WORKING WITH GROUPS AND INDIVIDUALS CLIMB THE PEAKS, HIKE THE HILLS, BIKE THE TRAILS [email protected] http://www.farandwild.co.uk

Day-tripsSea Kayaking in Kefalonia, multi-day Kefalonia trips in Kefalonia, Ionian Ithaca Sea,and all central Greece Ionian, BCU courses, accommodation www.seakayakingkefalonia-greece.com Paddle with the Authors NEW: Great Calusa Blueway Ten Thousand Islands Florida Keys & Everglades Everglades ~ Key Largo to Key West December 2012 - April 2013 7 Mile Bridge Fully outfitted kayak camping trips of 2 to 10 days http://www.burnhamguides.com

WHITE WATER RAFTING Owned and operated by members of the Nepali National KAYAK SCHOOL White Water Team, we are passionate about river running CANYONING and proud to share our country with you. WHITE WATER KAYAKING www.paddlenepal.com www.facebook.com/paddlenepal & [email protected] ADVENTURE PACKAGES Recommended by Lonely Planet, Trip Advisor, En Routard & Rough Guide

Genuine hospitality, quality equipment and an amazing place to paddle. We offer: day-trips, expeditions, courses and accommodation. Milos island, GREECE www.seakayakgreece.com

Kayaking Greece Sea kayaking holidays in Skopelos

http://aegeanescapes.com CANADABY CANOE Summer Phone: Winter Phone: G Complete Gear and Food Outfitting 705.569.2595 406.600.5297 G Guided Trips (May 1 – October 15) (October 15 – May 1) G Canoe, Kayak and Paddleboard Rentals Email: Web: G Ultralight Souris River Canoes [email protected] www.icanoe.ca

We are proud to offer the very best training in sport, adventure and active leisure. As a private training company we can offer bespoke programmes in the the following areas: G Apprenticeships in Sport and Active Leisure (levels 2 and 3). G Vocationally Related Qualifications in the Outdoors, Sport and Public Services. G Targeted retention and recruitment packages for FE and HE colleges. G As well as a host of technical certificates and NGB qualifications.

For further details please see our website www.channeltraining.co.uk, visit us on Facebook or call us on 0845 2996321

ThePaddler 33 ThePaddler 34

The Tullett Prebon London Boat Show returns to ExCeL London from 12-20 January 2013 and promises to light up the capital with a stunning showcase of all things marine. The annual Show, this year situated within World Cruising ExCeL’s South hall, is widely renowned for being Brand new for 2013 the World Cruising attraction the first place to see the latest marine will immerse visitors into the life of a cruiser. Show innovations, design and technology. The 2013 visitors will have the chance to speak with experts Tullett Prebon London Boat Show will host the and gain first hand ‘how-to’ advice as well as being latest launches, products and marine brands, as able to talk with specialists who provide well as offer a wide range of activities that will equipment for these type of journeys. You will also entertain the whole family –there will be find three ARC and ocean cruising yachts that are something to suit every taste and budget! fully kitted out to enable long term living on board to explore. To top this off there will be the opportunity to take a tour of the globe through a range of masterful photography showcasing 2013 Show beautiful images from the world’s seas and oceans.

Attractions Include The Marina and Dock Edge The Knowledge Box Scaling from model boats right through to the This is the place to head for those keen to learn largest vessels on display at the Show, the marina is from leading experts on a wide range of subjects. an essential spectacle, as is the 500m of dock edge This year’s Knowledge Box programme will consist which will boast some impressive craft and on- of a variety of talks such as how to successfully water displays from four times British Jet Ski maintain an engine, which lifejacket to select to Freestyle Champion Jack Moule. compelling tales of journeys across the oceans. The Show’s lineup includes Richard Harpham, Used Boats Marina kayaking traveller, along with marine experts, Amongst the action outside, the Used Boats nautical adventurers, experienced sailors and Marina is perfect for perusing a variety of used technical specialists daily. boats for sale, catering for all budgets and needs. Whether you are in the market for a previously Multi-Activity Pools loved boat or simply intrigued about the price of The On The Water multi-activity pools are at the your current vessel, make sure to visit this centre of the Show’s action and offer the perfect additional sector in boat retail to see just how far opportunity to test your skills at a variety of your money can go, and of course with no build activities. You can either try canoeing or kayaking, time, these boats are ready to sail away straight or if you prefer not to get wet, head down to the after the Show. Micro Magic attraction to watch and take part in the model yacht racing. Mini match racing and Feature Boats regattas of the radio controlled yachts will be taking Two Global Challenge yachts will be out on the place throughout the full nine days of the Show, marina for the 2013 Show. These 72ft boats that don’t miss your chance to be crowned champion! have sailed around the world twice, the wrong way, will now be available for visitors to climb aboard Boat Show, will play host to the London Bike, and explore. Sarah, from the Tall Ships Youth Trust Outdoors and Active Travel Shows. Access to all who now use her to provide people with ‘the these shows, including The Luxury Brand Show is ultimate Sail Training experience’ and CatZero granted with just one ticket, offering excellent from the company of the same name who work value for money with entrance to five shows for with young people to get them back into the cost of just one. employment, will be there for the full 9 days for Located at ExCeL, it could not be easier to visit the you to get up close and personal with. Show - with the new cable car spanning the river UK Star Championships from Greenwich to the Royal Docks; you can take For three days Fine Art Sails, a first-of-its-kind in views of London on the way! It is also accessible collaboration between world class yachting and by DLR, rail and car parking tickets can be internationally acclaimed fine artists, will bring purchased in advance for a daily price of £12 with something truly different and exciting for an adult or concession advance Show ticket*. spectators and Show visitors. On Friday 18 Keep updated on Show news and developments through to Sunday 20 January 2013, ten Star class via the Tullett Prebon London Boat Show website keelboats will take to the waters of the Royal Victoria Docks, outside the Tullett Prebon London www.londonboatshow.com Boat Show, to race in the introductory CNM Estates UK Star Championships. See over 18 renowned Olympic and World champion sailors, SHOW TICKET OFFER boasting up to 10 Olympic medals among them Book Standard Adult tickets in advance from will be taking part in the regatta. This includes £10, valid Monday 14 – Wednesday 16 January triple Olympic medallist Iain Percy, double 2013 OR come on any other day from £14. To Olympic medallist Andrew Simpson and Olympic take advantage of this £14 ticket offer, simply call medallists Pippa Wilson, Ian Walker, Mark Covell, the ticket hotline on 0871 230 7140** and Michael McIntyre and Bryn Vaile. quote your promotional code of L32, offer ends midnight 11th January 2013. For every adult Boardwalks ticket purchased, two children aged 15 years and Back inside the South Hall the boardwalks are under can be admitted for free†. designed to look exactly like a marina; just without the water. For the 2013 Show there will be several Other great ways to experience the Show: boardwalks dotted around the Show allowing you • Late Entry Tickets from £10* to step onto a selection of the world’s best power • NEW! Parking book in advance and save – and sail boats. from £12. Subject to availability terms and conditions apply see website for details The Luxury Brand Show * £10 tickets available for all day admission on The Tullett Prebon London Boat Show continues 14th, 15th and 16th January 2013 only. £10 the element of enjoying the very best that the tickets are also available for admission after marine lifestyle has to offer. Enjoy even more 3pm on any day of the show. luxury and glamour at the 2013 Show, with the ** Calls cost 10p per minute plus Network complementary Luxury Brand Show, situated extras. Calls from mobile phones may cost within the South hall. considerably more. † Terms and conditions apply. See The London Bike, Outdoors and www.londonboatshow.com for details. All Active Travel Shows details correct at time of going to press. From Thursday 17 to Sunday 20 January 2013, the E&OE. North Hall, opposite the Tullett Prebon London

ThePaddler 35 ThePaddler 36

By Simon Chapman. 28th August 2012

Simon carrying the poles for the frame firstdescentof the Rio Coypisa The Rio Coypisa: Bolivia. The buttress roots of rainforest giants reach right down into the scarcely-moving greenish water and a ‘vee’ ripple spreads away from the front of the canoe as we paddle gently forwards, taking care not to make any noise that would scare away the maroon and orange ball of fur that is sitting on an overhanging branch. It’s a ‘Golden Palace’ monkey, only just discovered and named after the Las Vegas casino, which put in the highest bid to name the new species. Minutes before, an otter – the giant type: six feet long with blue goggle eyes and a blotched white throat – swam under the canoe. It’s late afternoon on a perfect jungle river and the insects don’t seem so bad. For a while!

Simon carrying the poles for the frame

ThePaddler 37 ThePaddler 38 Yet this river unexplored at The Pak Canoe is brilliant for exploring jungle rivers. I have used them in Brazil, Siberia and several its headwaters times in Bolivia. The boat consists of a five and half and barely even marked on our map, was never metre neoprene skin into which you slot poles and the intended destination of our expedition. This cross pieces to make up a Canadian canoe which is first descent of the Coypisa was a ‘cop out’, a light enough (about 24Kg) to pull upriver or carry quick way back when our attempt to get to over obstacles but will also take some fairly hefty another river, the Enatahua, failed. rapids. Building the canoe takes about 30 minutes. The With hindsight it is clear that we totally Packing it up takes half the time. That means you underestimated the task we had set ourselves; can trek to the headwaters of a river, build up the trek over a mountainous watershed carrying a boat and paddle it downstream; and you always disassembled portable canoe, build the boat up, have the option of breaking it down, packing and then explore the river beyond. It was a plan that carrying it if ever the river becomes too rough, had worked well on previous trips, most notably choked with snags or swampy to continue. Our in 1997 when Julian Singleton and I had made canoe was for three people. We knew we were Pak Canoeis brilliant for exploring jungle rivers. the first descent of the Alto-Madidi. This trip pushing it by squeezing in four plus gear in but we I have used them in Brazil, Siberia and several times in Bolivia. would start where that trip had left off. We would reckoned that Julian, myself and our two Bolivian trek to the Alto-Madidi and paddle up it for two guides/ porters (Miguel and Mauro) were all fairly or three days to get to a point just 10kms over a small and, in fact, we had no problems with the small range of mountains from the Enatahua. canoe at all; it was the terrain that was to provide all How hard could it be? of the trouble. Simon trying to clear yet another logo jam

The

Pak Canoeis brilliant for exploring jungle rivers. I have used them in Brazil, Siberia and several times in Bolivia.

A little passenger

ThePaddler 39 ThePaddlerThePaddler 40

and a tough trek in and we On one raised patch of mud I found a single, A jeepwere paddling ride up the Alto-Madidi, Mauro and Miguel perfecting a regime of standing in the boat and poling I it up the minor rapids using bamboo cut from bare human footprint riverside thickets. On the fourth day, we reached the mouth of an un-named river; and that’s when the showed Julian but we opted not to tell our weather turned. July and August in southern guides as by then we were jittery about Amazonia is dry season. The meanders are edged by beaches of mud, sand or large, rounded stones. With entering the territory of the the rain, these disappeared and dragging the canoe up uncontacted Toromonas Indians the rapids became treacherous. Things came to a head when I tried to cross a narrow section of what looked like a shingle waterslide. The river was now running red with mud and rising visibly. I set off across, got to waist height (which was quite high enough given that I was carrying a full pack), then I hit sinking mud. The classic rule is not to struggle but it’s hard not to when waves of frothing water are rushing towards you. Seconds later, I was chest-deep. The others appeared in the canoe just as I started screaming for help, but I was stuck fast and, trying to Spectacled caiman pull myself up onto the boat, I nearly capsized it and then sliced my finger on Mauro’s upturned machete. By then my feet were free and I was floating in the current holding onto the back end of the canoe as I was towed to shore; at which point the others pushed off to get to the high bank on the other side, saying they would prepare a camp then come back for me. That was a long 20 minutes wait. By the next day the river had gone down enough for us to push on upstream. However, the water was still running fast and soon we were spending more time outside the boat than in, hauling up increasingly large rapids as the valley narrowed into a gorge with black, rock cliffs dripping with ferns. On one raised patch of mud I found a single, bare human footprint. I showed Julian but we opted not to tell our guides as by then we were jittery about entering the territory of the uncontacted Toromonas Indians. Soon after, we opted to breakdown the canoe and continue on foot. Ten kilometres to the Enatahua over two hard days, we assured ourselves. We cooked up all of the heavy food that night. Tomorrow we would find a ridge that headed west and follow it over the watershed. The ascent, up a rain-worn gulley, was nearly vertical and the canoe poles sticking out the top of my rucksack caught on every vine and horizontal branch. An hour’s struggle had us on the top of the first ridge being shouted at by a lone black spider monkey whose space we had invaded, and four hours more had us sitting roughly over (but a 1,000 metres higher up than) our camp of the night before. Our map, obtained by bribery at army base in La Paz, By now we were back in high rainforest and the had been wrong. We had followed the wrong ridge. wildlife (monkeys of various types and a couple of Our decision; canoe back down (the rapids were great) anteaters) were everywhere. We opted to rest for a and find a flatter way to get across. This time, the couple of days and use the canoe to explore the river’s terrain which on our map appeared to only rise one headwaters. On our first night there, a tapir came into 80-metre contour turned out to be a maze-like our camp. I didn’t see it. When I heard its footsteps, I network of interlocking knife-edge ridges and narrow slipped out of my hammock ready to ambush it with gullies. We tried following the high ground for a while my head torch on full beam, and just then Julian but all the ridges ended in sheer drops or were tangled started snoring, a sound which my guides later told me with vine thickets that blunted our machetes. The best sounded remarkably like a jaguar growling! we could do was to follow a westward bearing up and Unsurprisingly, the tapir took fright and clattered down, up and down. Julian was miserable that night. away into the riverside thickets. The next night, we “I can hardly walk” he said, peeling his socks off to tried a ‘stake-out’. We canoed down to a river beach reveal exposed bare flesh along the sides where we had noticed a fruiting fig tree, sat on the and heels of both shingle, ignoring the biting insects and waited until feet. Wet sand it went dark. The plan worked. Two tapirs (or maybe in his boots had the same one twice) turned up. About the size of a acted like a grinding donkey with a trunk-like nose that snorkelled out to paste and worn the skin sniff the air ahead, our tapir came remarkably close away. Mauro and Miguel took much and was unfazed by our shining torches at it or even of his load, we bound his feet tightly and flash photography. Seeing wildlife like this is a sure we carried on. Luckily, we found the jungle sign of an untouched river. This animal had clearly paradise river: The Coypisa. never seen people before.

I can “Julian said, peeling his sockshardly off to reveal exposed bare walk” flesh along the sides and heels of both feet. Wet sand in his boots had acted like a grinding paste and worn the skin away! Julian poling forward ThePaddlerThePaddler 41 ThePaddler 42

Unfortunately, with abundant mammals come the biting insects that prey on them. The dawn and dusk canoe trips were a joy but, once the mosquitoes, sand-flies and bees discovered our camp, the rest of the time became an ordeal. Trying to dry our feet out to avoid trench foot became pointless. The raw areas just attracted flies and got bitten whenever we uncovered them. We made the decision to give up our crossing to the Enatahua. We couldn’t face two more days across the knife-edges and besides, we had found an unexplored river right where we were. It was a good decision; and good to be back on The character of the river changed. Seemingly the water again, even if the deep water meanders breaking the rule that rivers should get bigger as of the headwaters became increasing interspersed streams join them, the Coypisa shrunk until it with pebbly shallows and minor rapids as the was three metres wide and encased in a deep red Coypisa descended through a rocky stratum. mud trench. The problem now was log jams. Stingrays were abundant in the shallows and There were frequent tree falls across the water each time we got out to drag the canoe, we and piles of driftwood that (we presume) had probed ahead with our paddles (frequently a ray been deposited when the water level fell at the would splash out of the water when one made end of the wet season three or four months contact!). Just as worrying was the electric eel earlier. Getting past these was another of those that surfaced next to us just as we were about to occasions when the Pak Canoe came into its get out and start pulling. own. I have descended Amazonian rivers on dugout canoes and on rafts made of balsa wood logs. With both types of craft, riding rapids is Just as worrying was the fine. Pulling across water-slide shallows also works, but at snags you are stuck. electric eel that surfaced next to us just as we were about to get out and start pulling Peccaries, South America’s equivalent to wild boars, not Jaguars, are the most dangerous animals in the Amazon Not when they feel threatened (on a previous trip, so with Julian and I had to climb a tree when around 40 a light canoe, went for us). This time, luckily, we were which you can just downwind. Around 50 peccaries swam across lift across the fallen then tried en-masse to climb the mud bank on trees, sometimes with kit still the other side of the river. This was too steep and inside and other times without for 20 minutes and, at only about ten metres even getting into the water (you just distance, we watches as pigs climbed, fell on top perch on the fallen trunk and pull the boat of each other, tumbled into the water, grunted, across thus avoiding the stingrays, electric eels squealed and fought until some enterprising and pirañas). The frequent short portages were a individual found a way up and the whole herd pain but the wildlife made up for it. The deep followed. The stench (imagine stale sweat mixed water pools between the fallen trunks were home with liver pate) was overpowering. to giant otters that would pop their heads out to It was like one of those wildlife documentary snort at us and the smaller ‘Lobos del Rio’ Unfortunately, with abundant moments and I was in the middle of it, quietly (Southern River Otters) sometimes would swim tugging a flimsy red plastic canoe free of the just ahead of our bough wave. sticky mud that it had grounded on just in case But, the best encounter of all was when a herd of the herd turned and we had to make a quick mammals come the biting White-lipped Peccaries crossed the river just getaway. The intensity of the situation was behind us. Peccaries, South America’s amazing, one that made the torture of getting the equivalent to wild boars, not Jaguars, canoe over the mountains, the trench foot and are the most dangerous animals the thought of the forthcoming return up the insects that prey on them. in the Amazon. Their herds River Alto-Madidi worthwhile. can number hundreds of individuals and they charge

ThePaddler 43 ThePaddler 44

INFORMATION

Highest and largest: Lake Titicaca is the highest navigable lake in the world at 3,810 metres above sea level. It is also one of the deepest lakes in the world. The Salar de Uyuni is the largest deposit of salt in the world and contains over 64 million tons of salt! The largest deposit of lithium in the world is found under all that salt! Cerro Mutún is the world's largest iron ore mine and is run on natural gas instead of Amazonian wood. Bolivia is located within one of the wettest zones on the planet with over 8000 millimeters (8 metres!) of rainfall per year. https://maps.google.com/?ll=-18.25022,-64.819336&spn=27.007254,20.368652&t=m&z=6

The world's largest butterfly sanctuary is located in Santa Cruz, Bolivia. Bolivia is the leading country on Earth for certified tropical forests. Bolivia Bolivia is home to the two highest cities in the world. Potosí is the highest, and La Paz is the second highest. In the 1570s Potosí was also the most populated city in the world!

Diversity: Bolivia is among the top "mega-diverse" countries on our planet. Together, the mega-diverse countries contain over 70% of all species known to humankind. In plant species Bolivia is the 11th country in the world (over 20,000 plant species). In vertebrate species it is 10th in the world. In bird species it is 7th in the world and in butterfly species it is 4th in the world.

Population: 10.1 million. Bolivia is one of the least-developed countries in South America. Almost two-thirds of its people, many of whom are subsistence farmers, live in poverty.

Visas: See: http://bolivia.embassyhomepage.com Safety: Be vigilant and cautious about your surroundings on arrival and while travelling in Bolivia because of the number of violent crimes against foreign nationals. Exercise caution when choosing which type of transport to travel in. Look out for established transport companies and ask widely for guidance - avoid people offering cheaper transport. Beware of individuals offering help at taxi points and at bus terminals where many thieves work in teams to distract their victims.

Language: Spanish, Quechua, and Aymara were Bolivia's three official languages. However, as of December 2009, when Bolivia adopted a new national constitution, all native languages and dialects have been declared official languages.

Electricity: Electricity in Bolivia is 230 Volts with two-flat pin US and two-round pin European plugs

Geography: The country has three main geographic zones: the Andes mountains and ‘Altiplano’ (high plateau) to the west; the semi-tropical Yungas (jungles) and temperate valleys descending the eastern slopes of the Andes; and the tropical lowlands which cover the eastern half of the country. http://www.boliviabella.com Money: The Bolivian Boliviano is the currency of Bolivia CANADABY CANOE

Summer Phone: 705.569.2595 (May 1 – October 15)

Winter Phone: 406.600.5297 (October 15 – May 1)

G Complete Gear and Food Outfitting G Guided Trips G Canoe, Kayak and Paddleboard Rentals G Ultralight Souris River Canoes

Email: Web: [email protected] www.icanoe.ca ThePaddler 46

Coaching by Andy Grimes of Fluid Combinations Kayak Coaching and Guiding Chapter 3 When it comes to us having a positive and enjoyable time on the water a strong knowledge of river safety and incident Incident management and safety management is essential. In my last article we talked First of all we should begin by talking about what’s We have many options available to us to safely about aspects we should most important in managing any dangerous recover people from white water. All of them have consider to be a good river situation… differing levels of risk some being very high others leader and strategies to being very low so naturally it makes sense for us to help avoid potential start using the lowest risk recovery methods and problems we could progress to the more dangerous if we have no encounter. YOURSELF! other option. Before beginning any recovery we must remember Let’s look now at the risk options diagram below that we are the most important person involved in right, this shows us a low to high risk recovery In this article I hope to any situation, we must protect ourselves before process we should aim to be working from. Starting discuss what happens if diving head first into a situation that could put us in from the low risk option of talking/shouting at the danger and even make things worse for all involved. something fails and what victim to gain their attention and verbally systems we should work If we can be sure that we not putting ourselves into encouraging them to swim to safety also known as through to manage the any danger we can continue into recovering and self rescue. managing the situation effectively. Firstly we should situation and recover it The next low risk option would be to reach for the think about stabilising the situation to prevent it safely. So let’s talk now paddler using your hand or if they are to far away from getting any worse, for example making sure you could use a paddle or length of tape sling you about how best we should our group is pulled in safely into an eddy or safe should have in your buoyancy aid. manage a situation. static position before we start trying to solve any problems. We can then think about recovering any We then move onto throw line rescues. Plenty victims or people in need of assistance. could be said about the use of throw lines and how/when best to use them. We wont go into much Lastly we should help recover any equipment that detail regarding the actual throw line techniques Andy would like to we may need to reunite with the victim. One golden used and would recommend that all people paddling rule we must also remember is that equipment is thank his sponsors on white water should attend a BCU white water replaceable, but yourself and the rest of your team safety and rescue course which covers the use of SystemX and aren't and are always the most important thing! throw lines in white water. LiquidLogic Kayaks. Please refer to diagram 1 for a table explaining this situation management style. Something very important to remember when using Andy is the managing throw lines is that we should always have a sharp knife on our persons that is easily accessible, in case director of Fluid Priorities we needed to cut the rope if somebody became Combinations Kayak 1. Self dangerously entangled in the line! Coaching and 2. Team Towing or paddling out is next and being capable Guiding. Further paddlers we should all be aware of the ways to tow 3. Victim a swimmers to safety e.g. holding onto front or rear information and 4. Equipment grab loops of the rescuers boat. By paddling out to a courses please see swimmer we are putting ourselves at risk, the main risk being approaching a panicking swimmer that’s www.fluidcombinatio The priority is you/self, your trying to grab the nearest thing to keep them afloat ns.co.uk safety and then you can be of which may end up being you resulting in them pushing or dragging you over by accident and use to the team and the victim making the situation a lot worse. See Andy’s coaching feature 1 and 2 at: www.thepaddler.co.uk/coachbalance.html and www.thepaddler.co.uk/coachleader.html

Coaching by Andy Grimes of Fluid Combinations Kayak Coaching and Guiding Chapter 3 Group Dynamics Whenever we go out paddling there will always be a group dynamic or group persona being used around the group. For example being very relaxed and less formal also known as laissez-faire can be a good group dynamic when paddling on Incident management and safety a calm section of easy water with no obvious danger. However, being laissez-faire isn't so good in a high risk or The last and most high risk recovery strategy is ‘GO’. Put dangerous environment where a more dictatorial or simply this means the rescuer going into the water chasing autocratic approach would be better suited. Lets look now after the victim by swimming after them or using the live at the diagram below, which shows us an image explaining in bait method which is taught on the BCU white water more detail the different group dynamics available to us and safety and rescue course. Jumping into the water ourselves when best to use them. is always the most dangerous option we have and should We should consider all the group dynamics in the diagram be avoided at all costs unless we have no other option e.g. and consider their uses in different environments and Face down unconscious victim floating down the river. situations. It would make sense in a reactive situation for us to consider the use of our team and even assign responsibilities for each member of that team to aid in the recovery process. Some simple roles for the team could be: first aider, incident manager, upstream spotter or even being the kit man organising any rescue equipment. In all major recovery incidents communication is key and must be kept constantly throughout any incident to ensure that a methodical and safe recovery for all involved is made. In summary The most important thing in any situation is you and we must remember that to prevent making a situation from getting worse we must firstly protect the interests of ourselves and any of our other group members before moving into help any victims.

G We should aim to work through the low to high risk rescue strategies to avoid putting people in unnecessary danger when solving incidents.

G By working as a team and assigning responsibility to each team member we can be sure that we are making use of all available members of the group while staying Low to high risk in complete control. G Keeping constant communication within the group options through the whole incident is vital and will ensure Talk (lowest risk on river bank) victims are recovered as quickly and safely as possible. Reach (low risk on river bank) Throw (medium risk on river bank) Group dynamics Tow (higher risk on water) Autocratic Laissez - faire Go (highest risk on water) dictator benevolent dictator formal informal laid back laissez-faire

ThePaddler 47 ThePaddler 48

The leader

ofI had the pleasure the of being the first person PACK (probably) in the UK to paddle the new Wave Sport Recon. I had seen the boat a couple of weeks ago and had arranged to hook up with Tom at the Tees Barrage for an evening paddle. The Tees Barrage has always been a great place for me to test boats as it’s been my local paddle spot since the day it opened way back in the last century. By Phil Carr ThePaddler 49 ThePaddler 50

Theis a Wave Sport Reconboat 83 and is a finalI prototype,tested so apart from the quality of the plastic finish in a couple of areas it is the same as the final production model. Getting the boat setup was easy. I added a couple of shims to the hip pads and raised the front end of the seat. The boat had many different outfitting extras that included shims for the hip pads, an additional seat pad to raise the entire seat and various other shims and blocks to customize the full plate footrest. In the past I had a Riot Glide with a surf seat that had a seat with a raised front end – I really liked this and was able to get a very similar feeling in the Recon. The rubber band that retains the footrest bolt (to prevent loss) was a little fiddly and did slow me down a little when I was adjusting the footrest. Not a big deal at all and I still think they are a good idea, as is having bright yellow bolts. On the negative side I’m not a big fan of using white for the outfitting exteriors and on a personal level I would prefer black or dark grey, which to be honest is a little picky. Overall I think the outfitting is great, I was able to get setup in a new boat in the car park in less then ten minutes. I’m 6ft 1 or 2 inches on a good day, with size 10 (UK) feet. During the paddle I was wearing a pair of Water Tennies (UK 10.5s). The boat was setup with the seat bang in middle and I found that I had huge amounts of room for my feet and much more scope to push the footrest forward if I desired. On paper I should really be in the 93, however, the boat sat really well with my 210lb bulk (+ kit). This did surprise me and in many of the photos that were taken, you can see me looking back at the stern of the boat. I was expecting it to be under water and to find myself trying to wrestle the boat down the whitewater course. In fact the Recon was super balanced, it just looked right and it definitely felt right.

The boat had many different outfitting extras that included shims for the hip pads, an additional seat pad to raise the entire seat

ThePaddler 51 ThePaddler 52

IFrom found the boat incrediblythe fast, much start faster than any other creek boat that I have paddled recently. It turns incredibly well and you can really carve the boat into eddies thanks to the really strong edges that sit below the water line. A couple of times during my paddle I tried to lean the wrong way and attempted to catch an edge, each time without success. I found that the boat handled well and was beautiful to paddle. If I gave it some beans the boat really came alive. This reminded me more of a play boat, which for me is a great plus. There were a couple of times this evening that it just whipped into an eddy with very little input from its pilot.

I’ve paddled a hell of a lot of boats over the last 25 years and the Recon has to be one of the few that have really left a lasting impression The best way I was able to describe the Wave Sport Recon this evening is that it is really fun to paddle. I wish the Recon was sitting in my garage right now, as I would definitely be out again with it at first light.

www.wavesport.com Go on, give us a ‘like’ on our Facebook page and be entered into a free draw to have the chance to win a pair of tickets to The Outdoors Show at: https://www.facebook.com/ThePaddlercouk

ThePaddler 53 ThePaddler 54

New paddles

Jackson Kayak begins shipping its new Karma whitewater kayak. Jackson Kayak of Rock Island, Tennessee has begun shipping its newest whitewater kayak, the creek running Karma Series. Available in three Testing,Lifedge Waterproof Case for iPad testin sizes (small, medium and large), the Karma adds an http://www.lifedge.co.uk exciting new line of steep river How to bomb proof your iPad performance boats to their We were really looking forward to this case and when it arrived in its growing river running products. sweet packaging it really looked the business. This is for us outdoor Following the footsteps of the types who need full protection for their iPads and it really does do 2012 release of the Zen, Jackson the job in that respect. We bounced, dropped and submerged it Kayak has taken the hull design of and each time it came up smelling of roses. So that’s what you buy it the Zen and built the accents of an for and it does the job very well - so what’s the problem? elite creek kayak. The end result is a Well I for one nearly had a seizure getting it onto the iPad. The website unique blend of speed and creek makes it all look very easy and flexible but I’m afraid we didn’t. All three of us performance. This 4th generation found the casing hard and unbending - in fact we nearly gave up. However, persistence creek kayak improves on its classic pays off and once we had shoe-horned it into place, and this is something you should definitely do before you outfitting with its Uni-shock leave, it very much looked the part. bulkhead, improved Sure-Lock back band, new stainless steel grab In bright green it looked really funky and the touch screen worked really well too. In fact I think the matt handles as well as Jackson Kayak’s screen of the casing subdues any bright reflections and is better suited to outdoor use than the glossier full Boat Armor Outfitting: seat screen of the iPad. The case also has a very handy handle on the rear, which you can use to hang it from brackets, welded floor support, various places if you wish. There are also two plastic stands that have to be carried separately that as well as Thermo U-channel, 4 lb density being used to attach the case to the iPad also come in useful as a small stand. walls and Thermo Seat. I am pleased to report that the case has “Bow to stern, the Karma creates become more flexible over time – the more confidence and excitement, it is used the easier it bacame to fit. One putting a smile on my face,” states very useful tip to make life much easier from Anti-glare Jackson Kayak President, Eric the start is to use a lubricant around the lip screen for viewing in Jackson. “Where have you been of the case and it becomes much easier to bright conditions. all of my life?" fit. We feel so comfortable with it now, my son now reads it in the bath! In short it’s “The Karma takes the all-out bullet proof! Available for iPads 1,2 and 3. creekability of the Villain series and adds extra speed, surfable Features planability and taller sidewalls to • 100% Waterproof. Shockproof. create a Zne/Hero/Villain • Anti-glare screen for sunlight viewing. evolution with the best features • Total functionality of touchscreen, Wi-Fi of each craft,” adds whitewater and cameras. guru and team lead, Clay Wright. • Compact case for everyday protection. “The Karma comes back around • Exceptional sound transmission. to exactly where Jackson Kayaks • Comfortable handstrap for ease of use. should be for 2013 taking the innovative planing hulls we are famous for into a package designed for the wildest Plastic stands whitewater arenas in the world." http://jacksonkayak.com/jk- kayaks/whitewater/2013-karma/ Available in grey, blue, green and pink. Lifedge waterproof case for iPad. From £74.99 UK; From $99 US; From 79.00 Euros ThePaddl er.co .uk te st s t a t i o

n

.

I

f

y

o

u

w a

Gill Speed Floating n

Testing, testin t

y

o

Sunglasses u r

http://www.gillmarine.com p r

o

d

Simple solution to an old problem u c

t

r

e

Simple solutions are always the best and when they look as good as m o

v

e

this – then it’s even better! Gill has specifically designed these for use d a

n

d

i

on the water with maximum UV protection from the sun and 100% t w

i

l l

b

glare free polarised lenses. Plus – they float – so should you be e

o

clumsy enough to drop them in the water, they don’t sink out of f

i

sight! n

t e

There isn’t much chance of them falling off you’re face as they feel r e firmly attached in a very stylish wrap round design. They feel very s t comfortable, snug and lightweight with a soft rubber bridge for the to nose. pad dlers We all know the dangers to our sensitive eyes with prolonged - ema il us: revi exposure to the sun’s harmful UV and the glare off the water making ews@ the the exposure far more intense. pa dd le A hydrophobic outer lens coating sheds water and reduces salt r .c residue, whilst oleophobic technology is applied to the inside face, o . repelling fingerprints, sun lotion and skin oils all culminating to u k provide optimum clear vision. Each pair of sunglasses is supplied with a soft non-scratch pouch that can also be used for cleaning the lenses. The Speed glasses are just one of an extensive range of floating and traditional sunglasses now on the market from Gill. We like these for the lightweight, style and fit.

Soft non-scratch pouch that can also be used for cleaning.

Hydrophobic outer lens coating sheds water and reduces salt residue.

Available in black. Gill Speed Floating Sunglasses. From £34.99 UK; From $89g US; From 79.00 Euros ThePaddler 55 ThePaddler 56

The Sea Kayak Navigation Aid (SCANA) http://www.howardjeffs.com Bridging the gap

Bearing The Sea Kayak Navigation Aid (pronounced ‘scana’) has been designed to bridge the gap between professional ‘Chart Table’ cord locator navigational instruments such as the Bretton Plotter & Dividers and/or the SILVA (Type 4) Mountaineering style compass used commonly by outdoor enthusiasts. The sea kayaker frequently travels along the coast, requiring not only detailed land 1:50,000 information that is usually found on Ordinance Survey maps, but also specific nautical ROMER grid information such as tidal streams, drying areas etc, which will be found on marine charts. The sea paddler’s chart table is their spraydeck and foredeck, the 1:50,000 rigidity of the Breton Plotter and the sharp points of the dividers are nautical km scale not practical here. However the base plate of many mountaineering compasses is frequently too short to draw out an extended course or measure distance quickly and easily. The ability to transfer from one scale (kilometres) to another (nautical miles) is essential! The SCNA addresses all these points in a simple, effective and robust manner. The base is made of a flexible clear plastic which copes with the 1:50,000 undulations and flexibility of the cockpit area. The range of scales and specific nautical mile dimensions of the instrument allow measurement of distance quickly and accurately. The compass rose and bearing cord allow angles scale and/or indented coastline to be measured with ease. The clear plastic plate is made of UV stable material. The scales and markings etched into the plastic are scratch resistant and also made of UV resilient ink. Its flat profile allows storage under deck elastics and the additional lanyard reduces the possibility of loss. It also makes an excellent kayak repair patch if you are really pushed! Available direct from www.howardjeffs.com. Trade enquiries welcome. Email: [email protected] Retail price £14.95 including post and packing within the UK.

New style for winter 2012 http://www.hellyhansen.com Introducing the Warm T – a first for Helly Hansen The Warm Relaxed Fit Ice T from HH is a departure from their more normal tighter athletic fit garments and their first ever HH Warm t-shirt design. It’s much looser and heavier than normal HHs and all for a reason. The weight is added by the exterior Merino wool, which gives the garment an almost luxurious feel and keeps you warm in colder weather. Beneath this lies another layer of HH’s more traditional LIFA material that draws moisture away from the skin in warmer conditions - a jack of all trades really! But it works and it works so well that it is now my t-shirt of choice for the winter indoor circuit sessions, which start out with me feeling cool and end with the sweats. This shirt keeps me feel comfortable all the way through – top marks! Warm Relaxed Fit Ice T is available for men in sizes small through to 2XL in expresso (left) and black. More traditionally for HH, one of their best selling base layers, the Freeze ½ Zip has been updated. Wool from Merino sheep provide the insulation, durability, odour resistance and moisture control. Soft and itch-free, it is ideal for base layer garments and designed to be Top layer of worn next to the skin. Merino wool and loose fitting gives the Warm T a As I have often said with HH base layers – they are tight fitting and sometimes feel a touch relaxed feel. claustraphobic at first – however, that soon gives way after a few minutes and you thank the heavens for such a warm layer whilst out in cold conditions. Back at base you strip off your top layers and let the front collar zip down and you’re as snug as a bug in a rug in front of a roaring fire. To add to the comfort the seams are flatlock and placed outside of friction areas. Available for both men and women in a variety of colours and in sizes from small to 2XL, there is something here to suit everyone. Half zip and flatlock stitching gives temperature control and next to the skin Warm Freeze 1/2 Zip. From £49.99 UK; From $72 US; From 59.00 Euros comfort. Warm Relaxed Fit Ice T. From £52.99 UK; From $68 US; From 55.00 Euros 0/-*/&
461&34503& XXXSPIPDPVL &/53:
-&7&-
1"$,"(&4 */$3&%*#-&
0''&3
5005&("
16-4&
1:3"/)"
,"3/"-*
1"$,"(& t
5PPUFHB
1VMTF
 $0//&5
 t
$BSMJTMF
%BZ
5SJQQFS 331
b t
:BL
#MB[F
#VPZBODZ
"JE 331
b 063
13*$&
b 1"$,"(&
b 4
.
BOE
-
"WBJMBCMF

'&&-
'3&&
(&.*/*
%"((&3
"9*4
&-*5&
1"$,"(& 1"$,"(& t
%BHHFS
"YJT
&MJUF

t
'FFM
'SFF
(FNJOJ t
#SBWP

1JFDF
(MBTT
1BEEMF t
Y
'FFM
'SFF
5PVSJOH
1BEEMF t
:BL
;JOD
%FDL t
Y
'FFM
'SFF
#BDLSFTU
331
b 331
b1"$,"(&
b 1"$,"(&
b


."/
*/'-"5"#-&
,":",
1"$,"(& '&&-
'3&&
.0,&/
1"$,"(& t
;QSP
5BOHP

,BZBL t
#SBWP
$PNCP
1BEEMF t
'FFM
'SFF
.PLFO
 t
Y
$43
#VPZBODZ
"JET t
'FFM
'SFF
5PVSJOH
1BEEMF t
+PCF
1VNQ t
'FFM
'SFF
#BDLSFTU 331
b 331
b 1"$,"(&
b 1"$,"(&
b
30)0
3&$0..&/%&%
163$)"4&4

4XFFU
4ISFE
3FBEZ
$"(4 3PDLFS
8JME
8BUFS
4UBOEBSE
4XFFU
4USVUUFS
1BMN
;FOJUI 1BMN
TVSHF 4XFFU
4IBESBDI 5ZQIPPO
#FSJOH  $PNQFUJUJPO
'VMM
$VU  b b 0GGFS
1SJDF
b 0GGFS
1SJDF
b )&-.&54 0VS
1SJDF
b 0VS
1SJDF
b 0VS
1SJDF
b 0VS
1SJDF
b

"RVBQBD
1BMN
8JSF
(BUF
&NFSHFODZ
%FMUB
1BMN
)ZESP
:BL
:BL
,BMMJTUB
4NJMFZ
1IPOF
$BTF
,BSBCJOFS %SBJO
#VOH 5SBWFMMFS "EWFOUVSF #MB[F -FHBDZ /PTF
$MJQ .JOJ 0GGFS
1SJDF
b #06:"/$:
"*%4 b b b b b b b "$$&4403*&4 1SJDF
.BUDI
1SPNJTF

8F
XJMM
NBUDI
BOZ
BEWFSUJTFE
QSJDF

1IPUPHSBQIFS
+FO
$ISJNFT

1BEEMFS
+BLPCVT
4UFOHMFJO

$)&$,
065 $IFDL
PVS
EBJMZ
PGGFS
PO
!
3PCJO
)PPE
,BZBL ."*-
03%&3 063
41&$*"-
"%7*$&
-*/&
0''&34
1"(& 
 @VYRZOPYL»Z7YLTPLYJHUVLRH`HRHUKZP[VU[VWKLHSLY >LZWLJPHSPZLPUILPUNHWHKKSLYY\UZ[VYLVMMLYPUNZV\UK HK]PZLHUKJVTWL[P[P]LKLHSZMVYPUKP]PK\HSZJS\IZHUK JLU[YLHJYVZZ[OL^OVSLVM[OL<2 1MFBTF
DBMM
GPS
B
DVTUPN
2VPUF
"MM
NBKPS
CSBOET
TUPDLFE 
-&&%4
30"%
)&$,.0/%8*,&
8&45
:03,4)*3&
8'
#+

  ThePaddler 58

Aquapac 100% Waterproof iPhone Case http://www.aquapac.net A perfect fit Lanyard In response to consumer demand, Aquapac has launched a 100% waterproof case specifically for the iPhone 4 and a slightly larger version for the longer iPhone 5. Previously Aquapac’s mini and small Whanganui cases were used to protect iPhones from water, dirt and sand. This new iPhone case has been cut-down in size so the fit is better and more compact. As with all of Aquapac’s phone cases you can make calls, send texts and search through the case as well as take photos thanks to the Lenzflex™ window in the rear of the case. If taking your phone onto the water to take photos or listen to tunes then you know your phone will be safe and dry thanks to Aquapac’s water-tight clamp mechanism – the patented Aquaclip® – which seals out water and sand. Guaranteed to IPX8 the Locking clips case will cope underwater at depths of up to five metres for one hour. I completed an indoor swimming test with the Aquapac and an old mobile phone (just in case) and everything was tinder dry 40 minutes later. Afterwards I inserted my iPhone to see if the operating claims were true and rest assued they were. Excellent!

Adjustable Aquapac Stormproof Padded Drybag shoulder straps Carrying a laptop or other valuables on the water could easily become a recipe for disaster, so lash them down in our padded drybag and worry no more. Aquapac’s Stormproof padded, rugged and simple to use dry bag is perfect for outdoor enthusiasts and leaves you worry-free whatever the weather. Manufactured from TPU-coated Nylon, it features welded seams and a classic 3-roll seal for complete waterproofing to IPX6 (fire hose proof). It has thick foam padding all-round for protection from impacts. Supplied with an adjustable shoulder strap, the bag also features a unique front lashtab for securing to kayak, raft or other luggage and 4 D-rings for great adaptability. This bag is big enough to fit a 17-inch laptop and anything smaller in fact we had two laptops inside. There are no separate compartments but we had a simple piece of cardboard so they didn’t rub each other.

Padding for The internal area of the bag is foam-padded for protection against minor knocks only and is certainly not bomb protection against minor proof. That’s not the aim of the bag though – that is to protect against water, which it does with ease. bumps and knocks G Lashtab to tie it down to deck or luggage rack. G Adaptable shoulderstrap so you carry it as you prefer. G The roll-down seal will keep out any rain or mud, or spray on a kayak. G The integral lashtab is perfect for lashing it down to a deck. G Guaranteed for 5 years from first purchase. G Waterproof rating: stormproof. G Colours: cool grey/black and orange. G Materials: 70D PU-coated ripstop nylon with taped seams. G Weight bag: 7.0oz / 199g. G Two shoulderstraps: 2.4oz / 69g.

100% Waterprood iPhone Case. From £20 UK; From $30 US. Stormproof Padded Drybag. From £50 UK; From $70 US. TheOnline digital magazinePaddler for the recreational paddler.co.uk DIDYOU WINTHIS LITTLE BEAUTY? by Liquidlogic 1. Visit: www.thepaddler.co.uk/paddlermagazine.html to find out… and whilst you’re there subscribe to issue 3 of the free ThePaddler magazine

And huge thanks to Liquidlogic and SystemX for supplying this superb kayak

The world of canoeing and kayaking at your fingertips

News/events Expeditions Kit Reviews Used Stuff Coaching Disciplines Video/Blogs

Manufacturers Holidays Watersport Jobs Courses & Quals Watersport Centres Equipment Retailers Canoe Club Finder ThePaddler 60

HIGHScott Chris By & DRY Chris Scott returns to Western Australia, this time to track the remote Fitzroy River in HIGH & DRY lightweight packrafts.

Following our brilliant run around Shark Bay in 2006, in 2011 Jeff, and I headed into the Kimberley in the far north of WA for an 80- mile run down the wild Fitzroy River. Located just 17° south of the equator, during a big wet season the Fitzroy becomes Australia’s highest volume river, although by September we were expecting a string of pools requiring tiring portages. For that reason we chose three-kilo packrafts, light enough to roll up and carry if necessary. If we hit trouble there were nearby cattle station tracks and most importantly, the menace from 20-foot saltwater crocodiles was much reduced this far upriver. We’d see plenty of smaller freshwater crocs, but unprovoked they’re no more dangerous than lizards, feral bulls or snakes, though we carried thick canvas ‘snake gaiters’ for walking in long grass.

ThePaddler 61 ThePaddler 62

sliced through the King Leopold Ranges before meandering 60 miles to Geikie Gorge, a day from Crossing, Fitzroy Crossing. In between there was nothing; At Fitzroythe only town for 150 miles in either direction, we carried food for five days plus whatever we we dumped the van and took a short flight north could catch. over the hills to an isolated wilderness camp. Out on the water my Alpacka Yak was a superbly Once the noisy Cessna was airborne Jeff gave me taught and responsive packraft. Jeff was in a a thumbs up. The previous Wet had been broken vaguely similar £20 pool toy, a ‘slackraft’ with all all records and 1,000 feet below there was a lot the rigidity of a lilo. more water than we expected so late in the dry season. Next morning we were dropped off by river some 15 miles from Dimond Gorge. Here the Fitzroy Disposable slackraft versus expensive packraft;let the trial begin… raf ‘slack t’ 20 £ a lilo is of y h it d n i i ig r f e

f

h

t

l

e

l

J

a

h

t i W Disposable slackraft versus expensive packraft;let the trial begin… raf in ‘slack t’ his e 0 ris xp 2 lo h t and resp e £ a li Cugh on n is of ta siv s y y e i h it b p v r e id e a n c i g p i k A r u r f S a

e l

f

f p t

h

t

a

l

e l

J

c a

k

h

t a i

Y

W a Vs k

ThePaddler 63 ThePaddler 64

Geikie’s famous East Wall where eons of flooding had carved the former subsea reef into scalloped and fluted forms after admitting, “This is going to be the be to going is “This admitting, after hardest thing I’ve ever done.” ever I’ve thing hardest By 6.30 it was dark and Jeff had already had darkJeff was and it 6.30 By out passed Beyond the Gap, the Fitzroy weaved across the baking savannah, obscured by its corridor of thick trees Geikie’s famous East Wall where eons of flooding had carved the former subsea reef into scalloped and fluted forms hiding who knows what!

We set off along a deep, tree-lined pool but soon Up again with the light, we were expecting more came to our first rock bar. Tramping in the mid- ankle-twisting portages. Little did we know this morning heat with maximum loads and boats on would be one of our best days on the Fitzroy. our heads underlined how effortless it was to Soon we entered an area of rocky outcrops and paddle, although maybe not in a flaccid slackraft. knotted rapids where freshies basked on sandy Before us stretched a long pool where Jeff battled banks or dozed submerged, close to our feet. As a headwind for hours, trying various paddling the day progressed we paddled lazily or towed permutations. Nothing could shift the PVC toy at our rafts over sandy shallows, as effortless as a satisfying speed. walking a dog. At times the main channel got blocked by flood debris, diverting the flow into Mile by mile the spinifex-clad hills crept by until the fringe canopy of trees. Here, shaded from the we finally called it a day on a sandbar and tucked sweltering exterior, we were ensconced in a into the first of our dried bag meals followed by benign riverine underworld where blue-winged several cups of tea. By 6.30 it was dark and Jeff kookaburras squawked, lanky-necked egrets had already passed out after admitting, “This is stalked the pools and yard-long water monitors going to be the hardest thing I’ve ever done.” licked the air. After the previous day’s effort this At 5am it is light enough to get stuck into our was more like it. first full day on the river. Jeff chose to walk the three miles to Dimond Gorge while I paddled, occasionally dragging the Alpacka through shallow rapids. We rendezvoused around ten and fought another headwind where the Fitzroy cuts dramatically into the ridge. A couple of hours beyond lay the Gap marking the southern limit of the King Leopold Ranges. The ochre sandstone cliffs became grey granite rubble and at the Gap we clambered onto a ledge and knocked back a litre of soup and a litre of orange drink while Jeff cast a handline, without luck. Beyond the Gap, the Fitzroy weaved across the baking savannah, obscured by its corridor of thick trees hiding who knows what! Sure enough, the flow soon disappeared into a huge rock pile and dense woodland. Shouldering our packs, we staggering up and over the boulders, boats on our head. An hour later I was parched from the effort and croaked to Jeff, ‘Let’s camp at the end of the next pool.” We’d put in an 11-hour day of just thirteen miles and were beat. Another bag meal, lashings of tea and Jeff was out by six – a personal best. As the stars lit up, out on the billabong crocs chased the fish and bats dashed overhead while I pottered around, before squeezing into my tiny K-Mart tent to grab a mozzie-free night.

ThePaddler 65 ThePaddler 66

soon after mid-morning hampered progress, but the ever-present A day‘smoko’ Ilater, came across a deposit of alluvial gold, Kimberley soundtrack of squawks, whistles, sparkling in the shallows. Using a plastic bin lid warbles and chirps filled the air. At one point the I’d found earlier, Jeff panned the sediment and thick aroma of urea choked the air; up ahead a we soon had some colour. There certainly was huge colony of brown bats clung from the river gold in the Kimberley and the 2011 flood had gums, lifting with a rowdy shriek as we slowly clearly exposed riches beyond our wildest paddled by. dreams. Then, like so many heat-struck In the heat and pitiless UV, Jeff’s PVC cheapie prospectors, we came to our senses. ‘Fools’ was softening like tar and picked up another flat. Gold?’ ‘No fools around here mate’ we chuckled. Fixed in a jiffy we pressed on, squeezing under Ankle-deep wades led to pandanus-lined pools, roots or over fallen logs, and a one point but were often preceded by exhausting, hip-deep scrambling up the steep banks to dodge a cranky quicksands. Elsewhere log jams or jumpy cattle bull.

In the heat and pitiless UV, Jeff’s PVC cheapie was softening like tar and picked up another flat. Dimond Gorge

Above: Jeff panning the sediment.

An hour from sunset another huge sandbank deflected the flow into a knot of flood-mangled timber. With cowpats and bat shit all around, it wasn’t a great spot but we were done in. According to the map we were close to the Big Bend which led to Geikie Gorge. Fifteen miles – it had been another tough day but we were getting to grips with Fitzroy pack boating. Jeff prepared a delicious garlic damper on the embers and we were out like lights. Mid-morning Day Five we turned Big Bend and spied the Geikie Ranges in the distance. Though the road bridge was still 25 miles away, it marked the beginning of the final leg. The rock changed again to limestone and as we picked our way through some gnarly rapids Jeff’s floor got snagged. It was smoko time anyway, so while the water boiled he made another repair.

ThePaddler 67 ThePaddler 68

entering Geikie Gliding under overhangs and nosing into caves, we SoonGorge Nationalwe’d Park where, be as you’d expect in rule- were enjoying a break in the pace when up ahead a clad WA, private boating was restricted in favour of babe in a red kayak came into view. As we got close she tour boat cruises and camping was banned outright. started chuckling. Paddling down from the Leopolds was unheard of, but we’d not been able to inform the ranger beforehand, so were expecting a bollocking. From the plane we’d seen that the river passed the gorge in “Good ON-ya guys!” a deep green channel. For me in the nippy Alpacka that was great news, for Jeff it wasn’t. She said as we filled her in on our adventure, We rocked up onto a slither of an island for lunch something she’d wanted to do herself and I offloaded the Yak for a quick blast, skimming “I hope you’re not laughing at us” I said with a stern across the water like a pebble. “Have a go, Jeff.” He grin. It was Ingrid, the Cool Ranger in her Scupper did and of course, loved it.“I shouldn’t have done Pro sit-on-top kayak, the only person north of the that. I really shouldn’t have done that,” he realised. 26th parallel remotely impressed by our It made getting back in his insufferable pool toy all achievement. “Good ON-ya guys!” She said as we the more galling. filled her in on our adventure, something she’d wanted to do herself. Ingrid confided that a big As we entered the main gorge the blaring sandbank a couple miles ahead was out of the park – commentary from a tour boat bounced off the walls, we could camp there. scoured by 40-foot-high tide marks from the annual flood. We’d been spotted for sure; they’ll be waiting We’d slipped through Geikie without a getting a for us downriver, hands on their hips. We decided ticket and the end was now in sight, but Jeff had well we’d deal with that when it came; it’s not like we and truly had it with his slackraft and talked about were pissed and shooting at crocs while honing walking to town. By dawn he’d come to his senses; around on jet skis. he’d nursed his bloated paddling pool for nearly a week, past sleeping crocs and charging bulls, over Without the protecting tree canopy, the full heat of the boulder fields and under fallen trees, patching it as 40°C afternoon bore down on us. The river was always he went. Yesterday had been a slog, but he knew he cooler, but with weary arms, Jeff set off across a had to see it through to the road bridge. sandbank by way of a rest. Half an hour later he flopped back into his boat, clobbered by the radiated heat. I hitched him up and we set off along the Geikie’s famous East Wall where eons of flooding had carved the former subsea reef into scalloped and fluted forms. “Good ON-ya guys!” She said as we filled her in on our adventure, something she’d wanted to do herself

Ingrid, the Cool Ranger in her Scupper Pro sit-on-top kayak

ThePaddler 69 ThePaddler 70 INFORMATION And so at Weather: Western Australia has a number of climatic zones due to its enormous size. In the north-west, heavy rains mark the summer 'wet' season, although the interior is mostly dry with high summer temperatures; while the southwest has mild, wet winters and hot, dry summers. Perth’s rainfall is highest between May and September. February is usually the hottest month of the year, averaging temperatures of 31°C. A sea breeze called ‘The Fremantle Doctor’, blows from the south-west providing relief from the heat. Winters are relatively cool and wet with temperatures of around 18°C.

Money: Australia’s national currency is the Australian dollar which comes in denominations of $5, $10, $20, $50 and $100 notes. https://maps.google.com/?ll=-17.97808,126.120987&spn=0.755002,0.887833&t=p&z=11

Visas: Unless you are an Australian or New Zealand citizen, you will need a visa to enter Australia. New Zealand passport holders can apply for a visa upon arrival in the country. All other passport holders must apply for a visa Australiabefore leaving home. You can apply for a range of visas, including tourist visas and working holiday visas, at your nearest Australian Consulate. You can also apply for certain types of visas online. There are important things you should know before applying for, or being granted, an Australian visa. These include applying for the right type of visa, application requirements, your obligations while in Australia and the importance of complying with visa conditions. For more detailed information visit the Australian Government Department of Immigration and Citizenship website.

Population: The 2011 population of Australia is estimated at approximately 21,766,711 people. Most of the population (83% in 1996) live within 50 km of the coast and concentrated mainly in the large coastal cities of Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, Perth and Adelaide.

Animals: Our unique animals are one of the many reasons people visit our country. Australia has more than 378 mammal species, 828 bird species, 4000 fish species, 300 species of lizards, 140 snake species, two crocodile species and around 50 types of marine mammal. More than 80 per cent of our plants, mammals, reptiles and frogs are unique to Australia and are found no-where else. Some of our best-known animals are the kangaroo, koala, echidna, dingo, platypus, wallaby and wombat.

Surf and water safety: Australia’s popular beaches are usually patrolled by volunteer lifesavers from October to April and red and yellow flags mark the safest area for swimming. For information about marine stingers and crocodile safety read the Queensland Government website.

Language: Australia’s official language is English. However, being a multicultural nation with a significant migrant population, there is also a tremendous diversity of languages and cultures.

Electricity: Our electrical current is 220 – 240 volts, AC 50Hz. The Australian three-pin power outlet is different from some other countries, so you may need an adaptor. http://www.australia.com 6am we set off Andseparatelyso for the finalat 13-mile leg which I Information: figured I’d complete by noon, collect the van and Alpacka Rafts are available from: meet Jeff back at the bridge. With nothing to lose I went for it, but by ten miles I was fading. The www.alpackaraft.com or in familiar cycle of headwinds, quicksands, log jams Europe at: and enervating heat took its toll as iridescent green jabiru storks carved the sultry airwaves. www.packrafting-store.eu There were a lot more roos down here too, but what about that bridge? Chris Scott’s Finally there it was, less than a mile away. Triple- IK&P blog trailer road trains hammered across, oblivious to is packed with the tiny raft below, its paddler up to his knees https://maps.google.com/?ll=-17.97808,126.120987&spn=0.755002,0.887833&t=p&z=11 again in quicksand. valuable packrafting info Presently a shadow passed overhead, but it wasn’t a fallen river gum or a rustling cadjeput; it and helpful suggestions at: was the bridge on Highway 1 which ringed the http://apaddleinmypack.wordpre entire continent of Australia. Worn out and parched, I crawled up the steep bank, rolled up ss.com/packrafts/ the Alpacka and headed for town.

Walking with sharks By Chris Scott Chris Scott asked “Why doesn’t anyone paddle around Shark Bay, Jeff? It seems ideal for beginners like us.” “Name puts them off I reckon,” he replied. “It’s famous for big Tiger sharks; National Geographic made a documentary there once.” “Oh really?” I said. “I thought it was just a name...” I had just flown in to Perth, Western Australia (WA) from London and together with Jeff’s girlfriend Sharon we’d hit the road for the 1,000km drive to Shark Bay.

To read further visit: http://www.thepaddler.co.uk/expaustraliasharks.html

ThePaddler 71 ThePaddler 72

In 1932, a 25-year-old German electrician called Oscar Speck jumped in his folding kayak and began paddling through the waterways of Europe looking for work. Along the way he fell in love with the journey itself, and carried on until he reached Australia, seven years later. As he arrived on the shores of Thursday Island, World War II had just erupted and he was promptly interned for six years. Last year, Australian expedition kayaker Sandy Robson, set off to recreate Speck's astonishing adventure in several stages.

Following the

paddleof strokes

Reproduced courtesy of the Australian National Oskar Speck Maritime Museum. Following the paddleof strokes

Oskar Speck Story and images by Sandy Robson Edited by Patrick Kinsella First published in Paddlemag in Australia

ThePaddler 73 ThePaddler 74 For me it has gone from being a story on paper and a map showing a route through places whose names I couldn’t pronounce, to a story that I'm living We sit side by side on the precipice. This is Jugo's The whole thing was originally Oskar Speck’s special place where he comes to breathe the river. idea. I thought most kayakers would know about He held my hand to get me on this edge safely Oskar, but I was wrong. Even in his homeland, and now I can see why we have climbed over the Germany, I was telling people his story for the railing. Jugo tells me what he sees. first time. This Dunav vista is intertwined with his life in I am telling the story now, not with words but Novi Sad and with his love for his country. with paddle stokes as I re-trace the 50,000km Dunav is the Serbian word for the Danube. He kayaking journey Oskar Speck took from can see himself kissing a girl by the river when he Germany to Australia. For me it has gone from was just a teenage boy. He can smell the being a story on paper and a map showing a blossoms of the riverside trees. He tells me about route through places whose names I couldn’t his decision to leave a good job, wife and child in pronounce, to a story that I'm living. It's a tale Canada to return and fight for his country that travels through many countries, and not alongside his brother. He was up here when the much of it is in English. NATO planes were dropping bombs on the Exactly why I am doing it, I think I will find out bridge below. with the passing of time. That's something I have The war is over, but the people's problems plenty of. It took Oskar seven years to reach continue. Jugo says that when he sits here, the Thursday Island in a folding kayak. I will try for problems get smaller. "The river is their escape," five. The water under my bow started on the he says of the many men that I have seen out Danube River in Ulm, Germany in May 2011. fishing on the river in the past few days. Sure, I first met Oskar while reading his water-stained they're catching food to put on the table, but diary penned eight decades earlier. As I got to when they go to the river they are joking around know him, I tried to imagine how I would cope and life is simple again. The river shows them with the challenges he faced. This research, what is important and what is not. coupled with my subsequent experiences, not I can relate to what he is saying because kayaking only gave me a perspective of what the journey is my escape. I am escaping the lifestyle that most would have been like for Oskar, but also revealed people in my world consider 'normal'. Normal what had changed and what has endured over

Left: seems to involve getting up and going to work the last 79 years. each day until you are 60 years old, and then Entering the Entering Iron Gates in Gorge Serbia. retiring, perhaps having paid off a house in the I thought most kayakers would suburbs in the process. The ocean and wild know about Oskar, places have given me a different perspective on what is important. So here I am overlooking the Dunav with Jugo. I am taking some of my retirement now. but I was wrong Right: oiSdt egaewt uo–100kms in a day.. Novi Sad to with Belgrade Jugo –

ThePaddler 75 ThePaddler 76

kayak, which was similar to Oskar’s, and they My first challenge were an inspiration to me as we paddled big- was not the rapids and whirlpools that Oskar kilometre days together through Austria, experienced, but getting past 35 dams that Slovakia and Hungary. It was a very hard day now punctuate the Danube, using locks or when we had to part ways early one morning portage routes. In the first week I had to in Budapest. My friends packed up their kayak traverse 18 small, self-operated locks. Each and took the train home, as I went off alone involved 30 cold minutes of standing in the into Serbia. breeze in wet paddle clothing. Oskar had at least two dogs during his voyage, Oskar and I both used a network of kayak and what I found most remarkable was how clubs on the Danube for accommodation, he had paddled the 35-nautical-mile crossing support and the companionship. In Austria I from Turkey to Cyprus with a young puppy in was lucky to be launching in Linz on the same the kayak. During my first night camping day as two German kayakers, Patrick and alone in Serbia, I found myself wishing I had a Johanna. I was intrigued by their retro folding dog with me for companionship and security.

I know what Oskar would say. You don’t need money to see the world in style. In his words, a kayak is a “first-class ticket to everywhere.” With Postmaster Willy in Austria.

Below: Patrick and Johanna.

The start of a lifelong friendship with Patrick and Johanna and a love of the biscuit called Doppelkeks. Photo by Wilhelm Mayrhofer.

On my last day on the Danube, I met Brza. She contacts that I would need to paddle this river arrived in the morning as I was packing my that is little known outside of the Balkans. kayak, and pursued me a kilometre down river On a one- or a two-week expedition, you can until I finally gave up and let her climb on plan every detail. A four-month journey is board. She was the perfect kayak dog and another situation entirely. Sometime you eventually found a place to sleep on the back simply have to take things as they come. Prior deck, with her head curled around my waist. to the expedition I couldn't find any With sadness, I returned Brza to her information about the Vardar. In Germany, hometown, Brza Palanka, at the conclusion of paddlers asked me how I planned to get the 18km trip to my take-out point. I didn't myself and my kayak from the Danube to the think the border police would let me take her Vardar, and I surprised and worried them across and I was unsure if she would survive when I said I didn't know. Having undertaken the whitewater on the Vardar. I was not even huge journeys before, I was confident it would sure I would! work out. When you follow your dream, The Serbian kayakers that I had become things often just fall into place in ways you friends with in Belgrade assisted me with could never imagine, so I continued to paddle passage from the Danube in Serbia to the into the unknown until the day I arrived in Vardar in Macedonia, and provided all the Novi Sad and met Jugo.

ThePaddler 77 ThePaddler 78 Sandy paddling with Werner Gotz in Germany.

down for a coffee Weand to my utter delightsat and surprise he said: “It's people think I'm out there paddling solo and all arranged.” It seems the bush telegraph is not talking to Oskar like an imaginary friend. Okay, I unique to Australia, and the Serbian paddlers have to admit, I may have sworn at him when really did have everything sorted, from route confronted by the weir on the Vardar River that I plans to contact details of English speaking had to portage 5kms past, and again the next day people in every town I would stay in as I passed when I arrived at three wire-covered rockwalls along the Danube in Serbia. The mayors of some spanning the river and prompting yet another towns had been made aware of my impending portage from hell. Below: The Paddling arrival and I even had the name and telephone Mafia in Serbia... And Oskar and I had a difference of opinion number for the chief of police. Dejan and Dragan were when it came to the Vardar. I would have been watching my back. The icing on the cake, though, was contacts for content to continue on the river Danube from paddlers in Macedonia and a detailed Serbia all the way to the Black Sea and even description of the Macedonian section of the across to Istanbul. But Oskar got his way, so I Vardar River. I was humbled by my experience of went from the Danube in Serbia to the Vardar Balkan hospitality. If you only paddle one part of River in Macedonia, put my sea kayak into the the Danube River, then I urge you to go to Serbia. whitewater and hoped my boat would not be damaged like his was in the rapids. “So, how’s your relationship with Oskar Speck going?” I am asked as Stage One of my It was a relief to arrive at the sea. Then my expedition concludes. Well, it’s pretty tough at relationship with Oskar was okay again. We were the moment actually. The first stage took me off to the Greek Islands together and a sea from Germany to Cyprus; I have very little kayaker really does belong on the sea. I probably money left and finding work and sponsors to set out on this next phase of the journey with fund the next stage is tough. But if we could sit more confidence than Oskar. His craft was not down right now and have a beer and a chat designed for the ocean and, surprisingly, he about the trip, I know what Oskar would say. You couldn't swim. When he got worried he would don’t need money to see the world in style. In his tie himself to his kayak with a rope. At times it words, a kayak is a "first-class ticket to must have been terrifying. everywhere." Jugo would agree with Oskar. He paddled for Part two next month: three months last year on a budget of one Euro Greece to Turkey per day and he says of such adventures: "Everyday is like a fairytale." Long-distance To help sandy continue with her kayakers are rich in adventures that travellers adventure, she needs 1,000 people staying in the finest of hotels could never imagine. willing to give 20AUDs. So, I know what Oskar would say, but maybe the Contact Sandy for details on how to question about my make a donation at: relationship with Speck is delving for something [email protected] more. Perhaps www.sandy-robson.com

To follow Sandy’s expedition view: www.vskc.org.au/ExpedDashboard.asp?ExpedID=13

For more information on Oskar view: www.anmm.gov.au/site/page.cfm?u=1416&c=915 Sandy paddling with Werner Gotz in Germany. I was humbled by my experience of Balkan hospitality. If you only paddle one part of the Danube River, then I urge you to go to Serbia

To help sandy continue with her adventure, she needs 1,000 people willing to give 20AUDs. Contact Sandy for details on how to make a donation at: [email protected] www.sandy-robson.com

To follow Sandy’s expedition view: www.vskc.org.au/ExpedDashboard.asp?ExpedID=13

For more information on Oskar view: www.anmm.gov.au/site/page.cfm?u=1416&c=915 Demir Kapija Gorge on the Vardar River in Macedonia with Marijan.with Macedonia in River Vardar the Gorgeon Kapija Demir

ThePaddler 79 ThePaddler 80

Standing on the roof of theworld So far from home and… home from far So world

It had been a year since the project began. Meetings, fund raising, planning, sponsored events and determination had led us this far and now we were on a plane to Nepal! Twelve young people, aged 14-21 and staff from Laburnum Boat Club in Hackney, east London were on a cultural, community and kayaking adventure of a lifetime. The group raised £20,000 over 12 months to make the trip happen and all the hard work was finally coming together. The aims of the trip were simple: To undertake an expedition, which benefited each individual, their local community and the communities, which we visited. By Beth Ettinger

ThePaddler 81 ThePaddler 82

Finally,Everyone was overwhelmed we by the massivearrived in Kathmandu differences we encountered straight off the plane and on our ride into town we sat with mouths open and faces pressed against the windows, drinking in all the sights, sounds and smells of a new country. The next day we flew to Pokhara, at the foot of the Annapurna range, where we met our guides, Santosh and the team from Paddle Nepal. The first part of the expedition was a three-day trip on the Seti River. We had a paddle raft, a gear raft and eight kayaks, giving everyone the opportunity to paddle, raft and swap around throughout the trip. The experience of spending two nights camping on white sandy beaches by the river, with nothing more than we had carried with us, was a first for most of the group. The question “where are the toilets?” This was answered with a paddle for a spade, a tarp for privacy and directions where to dig! Group member Moneer Elmasseek describes the trip, "On the first night camping by the river, I saw something I had only seen in films. I saw the Milky-Way shadowing the mountains of the Himalayas, we were standing on the roof of the world, so high up I felt I could touch the moon. I saw three shooting stars, most people go their entire life without seeing one. We were so far from home, yet it didn't matter as I was surrounded by close friends I call family. When we got on the river the next morning, we left our campsite in natures hands again. In Nepal I discovered things about myself, about the world and about people, and I will remember it for the rest of my life.”

The Seti definitely showed us what we had in store for the rest of the trip. The scale of things in the world’s highest mountain range was going to take some getting used to. It was more than the size of the rapids, which were huge compared to the canal in Hackney. It was the sense of adventure, of the challenges we would face as a group and as individuals, the teamwork and support required by being so far away from home, the differences in the way people lived and the achievements everyone would share during the expedition and as the trip went on, the team bonded through common experiences and the need to support and be supported. The next three days we spent in the homestead of the three brothers who run Paddle Nepal called Simental, on the Banks of the Trisuli River, where the villagers survive by subsistence farming. We were there to undertake a community project: to build toilets as there was only one in the whole village. The game was on to provide each of the remaining four homes with a toilet of their own. We split into groups and set about collecting rocks to build the structures and digging holes to house the tanks. We spent each day working hard and it wasn't long before we were working alongside the villagers, not sharing a common language but spending all day together, digging, carrying and finding ways round the problems of building on the side of a mountain. We left each house with a permanent structure as well as tin for the roofs, concrete, pipes, and toilet pans. We helped make a real difference to their community and for future generations.

ThePaddler 83 ThePaddler 84

Apart from the physical man hours we contributed, the best part was the community spirit shared between visitors and villagers. The young people from one of the most deprived areas of the UK had seen how hard things can be living hand-to-mouth. Apart from the physical man hours we contributed, the best part was the community spirit shared between visitors and villagers. The young people from one of the most deprived areas of the UK had seen how hard things can be living hand-to-mouth. Travelling from inner London to a remote mountain village in Nepal certainly puts things in perspective and was summed up by Whittingham Ryan “I'm never going to call myself poor again,” another reflection on the scale of the Himalayas, where having nothing means exactly that.

On the last night the villagers gave us an evening of traditional songs and dance round the bonfire and we handed out toys to the children. The next morning the villagers came out in full traditional dress and gave us a Nepalese send off and blessing for the journey ahead, with vibrant decorations, incense and flower necklaces hand- made that morning. We left the village exhausted and headed for the next challenge – a day of canyoning!

bigger and harder than the Seti We hiked up hill forin wetsuits 45 and bouyancy minutes aids to the base of a massive waterfall, where we were given a safety briefing before starting our descent down the canyon. There were whoops of joy, screams of terror and a few tears along the way, but after numerous slides, lowers, leaps and prayers we all made it, safe and excited, back to the bottom. The next day was one of rest and an opportunity to explore the town of Pokhara, albeit for a short time, before we hit the road again and headed for the Kali Gandaki, one of the holiest rivers in the country. The water was colder and more powerful and the rapids were definitely bigger and harder than the Seti. The crux of the trip were the two rapids, Big Brother and Little Brother. Both had the group out on the side inspecting and deciding whether to paddle, raft or walk around, which took some time!

The water was colder and more powerful and the rapids were definitely bigger and harder than the Seti ThePaddler 85 ThePaddler 86 decision was made One for us as Big Brother is a portage for the raft, leaving the eight kayaks waiting to be filled. Eventually the challengers lined up in their boats and took on the grade IV rapids, a huge achievement for a group more used to the Dart. The experiences so far must have had an effect, as everyone arrived at the bottom grinning from ear to ear, some people even had their kayaks with them when they eddied out at the bottom! Any embarrassment for swimming was dwarfed by the respect in the group for people making their own decisions and taking the consequences of their actions. Rowan, known to all for his 'face of panic' every time he falls in the water overcame his worries on swimming the rapids stating “the kayaking is much more fun than worrying about swimming”. The last day on the Kali marked the end of the adventure, leaving us each with a sense of achievement for what we had done, individually and more importantly, together. We overcame perceptions, disagreements, fear and tummy bugs and enjoyed our final day in Kathmandu visiting the Buddahannath temple and taking rickshaws to Durbah Square on the last night of Divali, a real assault on the senses with light and colour everywhere and the whole city it seemed had come out to celebrate. Ettinger Beth the trip leader, summed up the trip by saying, “The best bit was waking up on the side of the river, knowing that I was going boating again that day. We learnt how hard village life and living hand-to- mouth can be and also how far a little help can go.”

The group are now delivering lectures to local youth and community groups to inspire others to take part and to show what a lot of determination and team work can achieve. The aims of the expedition were met, and then some, and the benefits for all involved will last a lifetime. A big thank you to all those that made the trip possible, including the Team at Paddle Nepal who were more than fantastic, the Jack Petchey Foundation, the Canoe Foundation, the Marston Group Charitable Trust, Hackney and Camden YOFs and to everyone who took part. for swimming was dwarfed Any embarrassment by the respect in the group for people making of their actions consequences theirand takingown the decisions

ThePaddler 87 ThePaddler 88 ThePaddler 89 ThePaddler 90

Nepal: kayaking for beginners By Kevin Stainthorpe As Kevin explains, my vision was blurred and those all too familiar muffled sounds of surface noise and rushing water started to mix together and try to confused my senses even further. I was upside down. But unlike any previous experiences I was not in a state of panic. The water wasn’t cold, the river wasn’t shallow, and the conditions were perfect for setting up and attempting to roll. I remembered what I had been taught, I wrestled my paddles forward, tucked, paused to make sure my blade was level and had purchase on the surface, then as I brought the paddle across the surface I gave the now familiar hip flick and in an instant I was bathed once again in warm sunlight as I grabbed some more fresh mountain air. To read further visit: www.thepaddler.co.uk/expnepalbeginners.html Monsoon boating in Nepal By Dave Burne It all began after our group triumphantly completed the Tsarap-Zanskar (India) multi-day expedition in very high water, then hitched into Leh. It was here we found that river levels were the highest they had been since the 70s, which explained the mysteries of why we didn’t recognise any of the descriptions of rapids we had just paddled! So, you’re in Leh, and all of the classics you had planned on paddling are too high. What do you do? Go and discuss your options with a local raft company, have a whisky or two, then a few more, challenge some Nepalese raft guides and a six-foot six legend of a German to a drinking competition et voila!

To read further visit: To read further visit: www.thepaddler.co.uk/expnepalbeginners.html http://www.thepaddler.co.uk/expnepal.html

ThePaddler 91 ThePaddler 92 Kayak fishing

The kayak is ideally suited for fishing, that is, after all, what the craft was originally developed for. The origins of kayaking are as a survival craft in the sea used to fish for cod and salmon and hunt seals and walrus. The modern fishing kayak bears stark similarity to those skin on frame kayaks, other than the overall profile and ethos behind the method of using a small, paddle powered craft to access better fishing grounds than can be reached from shore. Don’t be fooled by the sit-on-top configuration the better, modern, purpose designed, fishing kayaks are highly evolved to suit the task. Kayak fishing in the sea

By Simon Everett

ThePaddler 93 ThePaddler 94

It is interesting that kayak fishing results in more public calls to the coastguard than any other type of kayaking. look Takingaround the basic design,a quick there are good reasons why the open decked kayak has become the favoured layout. There is a well on the after deck to house a box or crate that is accessible from and again upon landing, this is most important the cockpit whilst at sea, some also have a cargo as without the notification that the party is back hatch below this for camping gear. ashore safe at the time stated alerts are put out. On the foredeck there is another cargo hatch, If the time back ashore changes, a quick message which is often used to house the 12Ah battery to over the VHF to the station is all it requires and power the fish finder and chart plotter. Then, in they will make a note of the new ETA ashore. the cockpit itself, there is a fish hatch, long enough Failure to log back in normally triggers a phone to stow fishing rods and your catch. On the better call to the registered telephone number first, so kayaks there are bulkheads and the fishbox is a as to avoid false call outs. It is surprising how separate moulding, not simply access into the hull. many times people forget to tell the station they Astern the seat you will find have gone home, don’t be one of these! two, flush-mounted, fishing rod holders with rod leashing Notify the coastguard points and angled in such a Why is it important to notify the coastguard? way as to keep the rods out of What business is it of theirs what I am doing? It the main paddling arc. is interesting that kayak fishing results in more Further rod holders are added public calls to the coastguard than any other type forward in the cockpit. of kayaking. Running along the gunwales are the anchor hauls, so the This is because good hearted cliff top walkers, or kayak can be anchored in a observant deckchair sun-tanners, notice a kayak tide run with the stern facing remaining in the same place for some time, the flow, yet still be controlled sometimes with a regular arm wave (where the from the cockpit. The freedom angler is casting) and with no visible sign of any of movement required to attempt to paddle or make headway the shore reach all these features and to watcher naturally assumes the kayak is in some kind have the stowage and deck of trouble and in good faith alerts the authorities. space to mount them is really This is most frequent when fishing close to only possible with an open shore, simply because four miles out the kayak cockpit. cannot be seen, but 800 yards off the cliff or beach they can be. Therefore it is the kayak angler Get the proper kit who isn’t going far out who most needs to notify The next consideration is the paddler’s kit. A PFD the coastguard. is mandatory, no kayak angler with any With the information the coastguard station will experience will launch without a proper PFD, not then simply put out a call on the VHF to ask if only do they provide buoyancy in the water, but you are OK, so it is important to constantly wind protection and certain amount of monitor channel 16. When you answer in the insulation whilst out of it. It has also become a affirmative, that all is well, the coastguard will standard recommendation that a drysuit, with then ask if there is another kayak in your vicinity appropriate under layers for the season, be worn that might need assistance. You can tell them you even in summer. are the one(s) out there and all is well, thereby The kayak angling fraternity pride themselves on avoiding an unnecessary lifeboat launch. their preparation and safety kit carried. VHF is If the coastguard cannot raise you on the VHF seen as a must, not a luxury, likewise a compass, they are obliged to launch the lifeboat to whistles and waterproof torch. Flares are carried, investigate. The number of these instances is mini flares in the PFD pocket and offshore flares rising, so it is important that kayakers operating on the kayak. within sight of the shore, that means all of us, Most regular kayak anglers have their craft notify a paddle plan every time we launch, even registered with the Coastguard on the CG66 if it is only 400 yards off the beach. In fact it is scheme, it is a worthwhile practise and every MORE important if you are only 400 yards off launch will be notified to the regional station, the beach.

ThePaddler 95 ThePaddler 96

Mackerel are probably the mainstay of Mayday emergency call on his VHF, again many kayak angler’s catch, as they are stressing the importance of this vital piece ubiquitous and easily caught. They are a of safety equipment! So, having sporting fish in their own right, especially if caught using ultra light Astounded spinning gear or light fly fishing tackle. Recreational paddlers are often astounded at the size of fish kayak angler’s target, Fly-fishing from a kayak in the sea is got kitted up with tope, conger and even the mighty gaining popularity all the time and common skate being caught regularly, the mackerel are a popular quarry. Garfish are largest yet recorded in British waters being often caught when fishing for mackerel, a leviathan of over 200lbs by Dover what is there to these snake-like fish with their serrated angler Laurence ‘Lozz’ Taylor at a mark in bill are terrific scrappers and become loch Crinnan on the west coast of acrobatic, tail-walking and dashing about catch and how Scotland. This mark means anchoring the all over the place. kayak in water nearly 400ft deep and with do you go about Venomous a 1 knot current running. Many mackerel and garfish are caught with This kind of extreme kayak fishing the intention of using them for bait for requires sturdy gear, proper preparation bigger fish, people tend to use a variety of and solid technique. It is probably best multi-hook rigs, colloquially known as not gone into here as anchoring is an art ‘feathers’, these can also be attractive to a in its own right, it is probably the most catching it? nasty little fish called a Lesser Weaver. dangerous aspect of kayak fishing, These spiny fish are actually quite because if the kayak gets beam on in a venomous and you need to be familiar tide flow whilst anchored a capsize is with their recognition features. almost immediate, but to give an idea of If you catch one, do not touch it; instead the predatory nature of the common remove it from the hook using pliers or skate, use a hook the size of your hand other tool, over the side of the kayak. We and a 2lb – 3lb pollack as bait. had one angler touch one and the venom Tope are another species fished for at caused him to go into anaphylactic shock anchor, again in a flow of tide, often and he had to be medi-vacced off the stronger at 2 knots or a bit more on a spring water, it was a real Mayday situation, tide. The advantage of the tope though are thankfully he and his friend had attended they are very shallow, between 15 feet and one of our safety courses the week before 100ft deep. and his friend immediately put in a Early in the season, which starts in April, a whole mackerel is the preferred bait. If

We had one angler touch one and the venom caused him to go into anaphylactic shock and he had to be medi-vacced off the water the tope are picking the bait up, running off with it but not getting hooked then Black bream Mackerel, garfish making the bait smaller often works and the mackerel are cut in half, so you get two baits from each one. Tackle for tope need not be as strong as for skate and a rod rated 12lbs class is sufficient. The reel needs to have sufficient capacity and a smooth, reliable drag to deal with a fish that can run off 100 yards of line in one go. This is the attraction of these fish, their sporting prowess is second Mackerel Tope to none and they are fairly evenly spread around the coast. The rough skin of the tope requires the use of a 100lb rubbing leader of around 10ft in length, I use a tapered leader meant for beach casting as an easy transition from the thin braid on my reel to the thick monofilament line for the rubbing protection. The final 14” of the trace is 80lb wire to prevent bite offs and a minimum of a 6/0 hook, I like Gamakatsu Bass Cod hooks or Sakuma Manta extras as they are strong but incredibly sharp. Fishing for tope is dead easy, it is simply a matter of dropping the bait to the sea bed and waiting for the first knocks that then metamorphose into the first run as the fish takes the bait and swims off with it, let it go and then set the reel in gear and start winding, your drag should be already set to allow the fish to take line against the The venomous Lesser Weever curve of the rod. Little I say can prepare you for that first searing run of your first tope hook up – enjoy!

ThePaddler 97 ThePaddler 98 It isn’t all just about big sport fish though;

Flounder Various baits

catching fish to It isn’t all just about big sport fishtake homethough; for the table is all part and parcel of the game. Pollack and cod are mainstays of the table fish, with whiting and gurnards featuring strongly too. The cod family will all happily take rubber lures fished close to the seabed and can grow to a good size. Just recently a friend of mine caught a Pollack of nearly 14lbs from the reef off Lizard point and fish around the 6lb mark are commonplace, a good fish by anyone standards. Flatfish, in season are a welcome treat and fortunately the humble flounder can be found in sheltered estuaries and harbours through the winter, caught by using peeler crab for bait or a bunch of ragworms fished right on the bottom, sometimes in no more than a few inches of water. Plaice are a fish of the spring and summer over sandbanks or a clean, sandy, gravelly bottom. One of the most famous marks available for the kayak angler is the Skerries bank in Start Bay, Devon or the seafront along from Southsea to Lee- on-Solent. Given a chance both these flatfish can be great fun and surprisingly sporty. Light tackle is all that is required and a spinning rod and reel will cope with any flounder or plaice that swims. Another summer species that is both fabulous to eat and catch is the black bream. These migratory fish turn up in the early spring, the biggest fish first and can then be caught right through the summer months. They can be a real nuisance at it isn’t difficult to catch dozens times when fishing for other species, shredding in a session, so restraint needs your bait in seconds of dropping it down, if this happens the only thing you can do is move. Bream shoal in such numbers over reefs and to be shown broken ground that it isn’t difficult to catch for the of the stocks dozens in a session, so restraint needs to be future shown for the future of the stocks. A self- imposed limit of five fish is plenty for anyone, especially if they are big ones of 3lbs or more. The best bait for these very hard fighters is a small piece of mackerel, or a squid strip just hooked at one end on a size 2 hook. Use fine fluorocarbon for your trace of 16lb breaking strain for better presentation and more success.

ThePaddler 99 ThePaddler 100

For those who are confident of their kayak handling and angling skills,

catchinghas to be one of the most exciting fishing trips conger eels in the pitch black of night there is. Congers are found right around the coast wherever there is cover of some kind. Rocky ledges such as those along Dorset’s Jurassic Coast, breakwaters like that across The Sound at Plymouth and wrecks will all hold conger eels, some of enormous size. The best bait for a conger is mackerel or a couple of whole squid presented on a large, strong hook like those used for tope. Although conger have no teeth they have immense crushing power and hard bony plate that will make short work of your trace if it is less than 150lb breaking strain. Once hooked conger fight very hard all the way to the surface and they are the only fish that can swim backwards as fast as they can forwards. A tussle with a conger is a tug-of-war in the vertical plane and it will test every piece of your tackle to the utmost. Once on the surface they will often spin, going round like a rubber band motor on a toy aeroplane. Once you can grab the trace and get the head out of the water they then tend to calm down and can be carefully unhooked. Barbless hooks make this task easier and if you want to try cooking one, they are best used in a Bouillabaisse. Other fish taste better, but few fight as well. If you are fired up to try your hand at kayak angling, rather than just a bit of mackerel bashing, then the Angling Trust run dedicated kayak fishing safety courses which provide more than just the basics, plus techniques on how to anchor safely and using a drogue to drift more strategically. You can find details on their website below.

Tight lines and stay safe.

www.anglingtrust.net catching conger eels in the pitch black of night

ThePaddler 101 TheOnline digital magazinePaddler for the recreational paddler.co.uk This is the last page of over 100 pages on paddling! If you have enjoyedthis, then please leave a

on our‘Like’ facebook page

www.thepaddler.co.uk The world of canoeing and kayaking at your fingertips

News/events Expeditions Kit Reviews Used Stuff Coaching Disciplines Video/Blogs

Manufacturers Holidays Watersport Jobs Courses & Quals Watersport Centres Equipment Retailers Canoe Club Finder