Feature 08-04
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HOLAND S ON Night R Hiking Sublime Summits: A hiker takes in a view of the Pickett Range in the North Cascades from Trappers Peak. Though this peak require a bit scramble at the end, many other fantastic summits can be reached by straightforward trails. By Andrew Engelson So we’ve done a little legwork for you and recommended some of the Why should mountain climbers state’s most gorgeous, magnificent, GETTING have all the fun? jaw-dropping (insert your favorite There’s something magnificent superlative here) and soul-satisfying about getting to the summit of a peak. peaks you can get to without skill in Fantastic views, high clear air, and a scrambling or climbing. real sense of accomplishment. About For those interested in expanding TO THE ten years ago, when I was first getting their horizons further, The Mountain- a taste of the trails in the Olympics, I eers Scrambling Course can open up made my way up the killer trail to the another world of intermediate summit of Mount Jupiter in the peaks—not quite hikes, but not quite TOP Olympics. The weather was superb, climbs. For more info, visit and the views of The Brothers and www.mountaineers.org. Puget Sound and the Cascades were “By taking a course, you develop awe-inspiring. What I took away from four basic skills,” says Peggy Goldman, that trip was that every time I see the author of 75 Scrambles in Washing- Trails to prominent summit of Jupiter on the ton. “Ice axe arrest, self-belay, rock horizon from Seattle, I can say, skills, and orientation using map and pointing the tip-top, “I’ve been there.” compass.” Under rock skills, she notes Washington And, it turns out you don’t have to the importance of developing balance be a burly mountaineer to do get to and learning to lower yourself down many of these summits. Plenty of trails steep rocky areas without ropes or a in Washington lead to the top of peaks trail. The Mountaineers course Summits in the Cascades and Olympics. features four lectures, four field trips, The trouble is choosing one. and a requirement that you take three Hiking Washington Summits club-led trips. lookouts. Unob- But for those without such skills, structed views were NGELSON E there’s still a lot to discover. crucial to fire tracking NDREW Because they gain a good amount of work, and those who A elevation, summit hikes often offer a like to survey the fascinating opportunity to transit landscape are the through a variety of ecosystems. happy beneficiaries of Often, you start in a deep second- that legacy. growth valley, ascending to mature old Are there down growth and communities of shade- sides to summit loving plants and animals such as hiking? Well, first and Oregon grape, vanilla leaf, and red foremost, they aren’t squirrels. Ascending higher, you may easy. You’ve got to find mountain hemlock, Alaska cedar, work for all the and the beginnings of wildflowers. payoff, and it’s not Higher still come subalpine firs, uncommon to find a lupine, a host of wildflowers, and trail with a constant huckleberries in August. And if your 20 percent grade, summit is high enough, you’ll ascend gaining 3,000 vertical to the alpine zone of heathers, feet or more in under krummholz and hardy wildflowers. 4 miles. Hikers on the summit of Mount Dickerman, in Views are one reason many of us are And some summits, the Mount Baker Snoqualmie National Forest. attracted to summit trails. Often, with their vertical cliff Two or three thousand feet of elevation gain peaktops such as Granite Mountain, faces and steep trails, isn’t uncommon on a good summit hike, but Sauk Mountain and Green Mountain aren’t the best places the payoffs include killer views. are the site of existing or former fire for young children. Backcountry starter (waterproof matches); repair camping often isn’t the kit and tools (including knife); best on the peaks of nutrition (extra food); hydration (extra UNDERLAND water); and emergency shelter (space S mountains: there’s ILL B generally little water to blanket) should all reside in your pack. be found (unless No matter the seeming balminess of there’s still snow), the weather, it’s wise to take all ten alpine meadows are items. Having forgotten sunscreen on extremely fragile and one trip and returned looking like a sensitive to trampling peeled tomato, I don’t skimp on the boots and tents, and essentials. Similarly, the weather on often the exposed summits can turn bad with incredible conditions make for a speed, so pack prepared and always cold, windy camp. keep an eye on conditions. You Still, day hiking the wouldn’t want to be caught in a mid- summits of Washing- summer thunderstorm on an exposed ton is some of the best mountaintop. hiking you’ll experi- But with the safety issues out of the ence in the world. way, there’s nothing to stop you from Be prepared, of enjoying all the pleasures summit course. The 10 hikes have to offer. ! essentials are a must: navigation (map and Want more info? compass); sun protec- Consult Peggy Goldman’s 75 tion (sunscreen); Scrambles in Washington Green Mountain, off the Suiattle River near insulation (extra (Mountaineers, $18.95) and Glacier Peak. Summit hikes frequently cover a clothing); illumination Washington’s Highest Mountains range of ecosystems—from deep forests to (flashlight/headlamp); (Wilderness, $17.95). high alpine meadows. first-aid supplies; fire Trails to the Summits Abercrombie Mountain Old Snowy steep but well-graded switchbacking Northeast of Colville Goat Rocks Wilderness trail to high-cliff promontory. The second-highest mountain in Attaining the summit of this High Point 5,723 feet, elevation gain Eastern Washington is a walk-up jumbled slate pile is via a spur 3,900 feet, 8.6 miles round-trip. with expansive views of the sur- trail off the state’s highest stretch Mount Townsend rounding Pend Oreille River country. of the Pacific Crest Trail. You’ll Olympic National Forest, Quilcene have to do a little easy scrambling High point 7,308 feet, elevation gain For all-encompassing views, it’s on talus to get to the top. The 2,408 feet, 5.5 miles round-trip. hard to beat Townsend. On a clear route to Snowgrass Flat and the Dog Mountain day your gaze will take in Port summit of Old Snowy is best Columbia Gorge Angeles, Victoria, the San Juans, done as a backpack trip so you Mount Baker, Shuksan, Glacier Overlooking the Columbia, the steep can savor the tremendous Peak, the Puget Lowlands (includ- zigzagging trail up this little moun- scenery here. tain has the advantage of being ing Seattle’s tiny-looking Columbia High point 7,930 feet, elevation open to hiking most of the year. Tower), Rainier and the Olympics. gain, 3,300 feet, 11 miles round On a recent trip, we spotted nearly High point 2,948, elevation gain trip. 50 different wildflower varieties. 2,848 feet, 6 miles round trip. Park Butte High point 6,200 feet, elevation Granite Mountain Mount Baker Wilderness gain, 2,950 feet, 8.2 miles round trip Off I-90 below Snoqualmie Pass The glaciers of Mount Baker shine (from high trailhead). Yes, this trail is a veritable freeway in all their glory along this Shriner Peak on a summer day, but the fire magnificent trail to a former Mount Rainier, Cayuse Pass lookout offers gorgeous views to lookout. A storm-damaged bridge A rustic 1930s-era lookout awaits Mount Rainier and St. Helens, outage at Rock Creek requires a you on this less-frequented trail in Mount Stuart and a host of sur- tricky ford that’s not for everyone; Mount Rainier National Park. rounding peaks. call for current conditions. Wildflower meadows, elk sign, and High point 5,629, elevation gain High point 5,450 feet, elevation views to the volcanic peaks to the 3,800 feet, 8 miles round trip. gain 2,250 feet, 7 miles round trip. south (including Mount Hood) are Green Mountain Mount Aix all good reasons to go. Suiattle River Road out of William O. Douglas Wilderness High point 5,834, elevation gain Darrington This is tough haul—12 miles 3,434 feet, 8.4 miles round trip. A postcard view of Glacier Peak, the round trip and a hard, dry route Tolmie Peak summits of the Ptarmigan traverse, (load up those water bottles). But Mount Rainier, Carbon River and valleys below carpeted with a the payoffs are many: views to On the other end of the Park, this thick shag of old growth—these are Mounts Rainier, Adams, and St. lovely hike takes you past Mowich just some of the attractions of Helens and well as the Goat and Eunice Lakes, and a steep, one- Green Mountain (and it truly is a Rocks. Lingering snow at the mile final push to the site of an old very green mountain!). summit may require ice axe and lookout. The Mountain seems close High point 6,500 feet, elevation gain knowledge how to use it. enough to touch and the Olympics 3,100 feet, 8 miles round-trip. High point 7,766 feet, elevation stand out in relief. Displays of Koppen Mountain gain 4,200 feet, 12 miles round wildflowers predominate in early Teanaway River region trip. summer. For views of the granite monolith of Mount Dickerman High point 5,939, elevation gain Mount Stuart, try the summit of Mountain Loop Highway, Verlot 1,200 feet (plus 200 feet going out), Koppen Mountain.