Greater Adjutants at Prek Toal (Craig Robson)

CAMBODIA &

20 FEBRUARY – 7 MARCH 2015

LEADER: CRAIG ROBSON

Another great tour to this -rich region brought us a long list of memorable sightings. Fine sunny weather prevailed, and we could have done with some rain by the end! In Laos, Bare-faced Bulbul, Sooty Babbler, Lao Langur and Jerdon’s Bushchat all showed well, and we also bumped into Yellow-vented Green Pigeon and Pale-headed . The bulk of the specialities were in of course, with Chestnut- headed Partridge, Milky Stork and Greater Adjutant at one of the largest remaining ‘large waterbird’ breeding colonies in Asia, White-shouldered and Giant Ibises, White-rumped Falcon, Bengal Floricans (with some males displaying), flocks of Sarus Cranes, a scoped Pale-capped Pigeon, Spotted and Brown Wood Owls, an incredible 15 of woodpecker, including Rufous-bellied Yellow-crowned and Black-headed, Blue Pitta, Wagtail, Manchurian Reed Warbler, the newly described Cambodian , and Asian Golden Weaver to name but a few. Most unexpected was a Great White Pelican at Prek Toal, for which there are few contemporary records. Our total of 354 bird species was by far the highest ever recorded on this tour. Irrawaddy Dolphin and Eld’s Deer headed-up the mammal list.

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The tour began in earnest at Vientiane, with an afternoon walk along the banks of the Mekong River. The pools, grassland and weedy patches harboured a surprisingly good range of winter migrants, and we enjoyed unusually good views of Bluethroat, Siberian Rubythroat and Thick-billed Warbler. Residents were represented by familiar species such as Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, Great (or White-vented) , Golden-headed Cisticola and Yellow-bellied Prinia.

Bare-faced Bulbul at Ban Nahin (Werner Mueller)

Predawn on our first full day, we drove to an area of the Mekong River where the very localised Jerdon’s Bushchat can easily be found. No sooner had we reached the riverbank, than we were picking out singing males atop the numerous bushes and other vegetation in the braided river channel. From the same position, we were also able to see River Lapwing, Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, the lovely Wire-tailed , and Grey-throated Martin. With a walk up and down the road nearby, we added Asian Barred Owlet, White- browed Piculet, Greenish and Grey-crowned Warblers, Puff-throated Babbler, and Ruby-cheeked Sunbird.

Limestone pinnacles in the Ban Nahin region (Craig Robson)

We paused for lunch before hitting the road to north Central Laos, and the limestone country of Ban Nahin. The following morning we explored the roadside forest in this limestone karst area. Soon after dawn at a viewpoint, we picked-out our first of at east 12 Lao (or Laotian) Langurs sunning itself on a pinnacle, safe from intrusion in this rugged landscape. Further along the road we did the double, with a foraging flock of

2 BirdQuest Tour Report Cambodia & Laos www.birdquest-tours.com dumpy Sooty Babblers and flycatching Bare-faced Bulbuls, our two main avian targets here - both restricted to the regions’ limestone terrain. During the next 24 hours in the Ban Nahin area we found a good variety of species, including Mountain Hawk Eagle, Yellow-vented Green Pigeon, Brown-backed Needletail, a brilliantly reactive Pale-headed Woodpecker, Rufous Woodpecker, Great , Ashy Minivet, Puff-throated and Grey- eyed Bulbuls, flocks of locally resident House Martins, Striated Swallow, Buff-breasted Babbler, Hainan Blue Flycatcher, Siberian Blue Robin, Indochinese (or Chestnut-collared) Yuhina, Golden-fronted Leafbird, Thick-billed, Yellow-vented and Plain Flowerpeckers, and Purple-naped and Crimson Sunbirds.

Brown Wood Owl at Angkor (Craig Robson)

The following morning we took a flight to Siem Reap in Cambodia. After meeting our local guide, Mardy, we spent the rest of the day exploring the cultural splendours of Angkor. Mardy’s extensive knowledge

Part of the Bayon Temple, Angkor (Craig Robson) contributed to a very interesting and memorable experience, as we explored the Bayon Temple and Angkor Wat itself. There were some to look at too, with our best finds being a superb Brown Wood Owl near its day-roost, an Asian Rock Thrush (split from Blue), and a nice male White-throated Rock Thrush; as well as the more expected Asian Barred Owlet, Hainan Blue Flycatcher and Blue Rock Thrush.

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We counted at least 2,000 Spot-billed Pelicans at Prek Toal (Craig Robson)

Away early the next morning to the Great Lake (Tonle Sap), we boarded a motorboat before sunrise in order to reach the Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary, eating our breakfasts on board. This year we took a new route, heading south from the extreme north-west tip of the lake. On arrival at the sanctuary, we transferred to

Oriental Darter (Craig Robson) smaller boats in order to negotiate the shallower channels. As we chugged slowly along the narrowing creeks, we passed concentrations of Oriental Darters and Spot-billed Pelicans, mixed hordes of cormorants (three species) and egrets (four species), and very confiding Grey-headed Fish Eagles. During this particular trip, there were unusually good numbers of gaudy breeding-plumaged Greater Adjutants at point-blank

4 BirdQuest Tour Report Cambodia & Laos www.birdquest-tours.com range, as well as several excellent Milky Storks - here at one of its only inland breeding places in the world. During the morning we also enjoyed good numbers of Black-headed ibises, Yellow and Cinnamon Bitterns,

Great White Pelican at Prek Toal (Dave Williamson)

Black-crowned Night Heron, Striated, Grey and Purple Herons, Black-backed Swamphen (split from Purple), and large numbers of Whiskered Terns. Probably our bird of the day, was a Great White Pelican that Dave first noticed amongst the Spot-billed’s. This is such a rare bird in the region these days, with hardly any

Manchurian Reed Warbler (Craig Robson) contemporary records. As the temperature rose, flocks of Painted Storks and Asian Openbills took to the air, and we headed back across the lake, where we ate lunch at a floating village. In the afternoon we returned

5 BirdQuest Tour Report Cambodia & Laos www.birdquest-tours.com to a spot where Craig had found a wintering Manchurian Reed Warbler a few weeks earlier. Fortunately the bird was still present and we eventually managed to tempt it into view.

Our second day's birding in Cambodia took us to the fascinating area of Ang Trapeang Thmor Wildlife Sanctuary, a man-made water body surrounded by rich wetlands, woodland and arable country. Arriving at dawn we paused for breakfast among the dry rice paddies. We were hoping to spot some Sarus Cranes but they were rather too distant from this point. Perched Short-toed Snake and Greater Spotted Eagles were good though. After briefly calling-in at the sanctuary headquarters, we headed off to an area of woodland edge and ricefields, where we were fortunate to see a total of nine rather shy Eld’s Deer, an endangered ungulate with a very patchy range. This was also a good area for roosting owls, with four Western Barn, and a beautiful Spotted Wood, as well as Asian Barred and Spotted Owlets! Sarus Cranes flapped by at close

Spotted Wood Owl at ATT (Craig Robson) range, and we had excellent views of a Barred Buttonquail. The rest of the day was spent at various wetland vantage points, where our growing tally included 100s of Lesser Whistling, Knob-billed (or Comb) and Indian Spot-billed Ducks, Cotton Pygmy Geese and Garganey, three stately Black-necked Storks, Eastern Marsh and Pied Harriers, Watercock, 100s of Black-backed Swamphens, Black-winged Stilts, Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, Eastern Black-tailed Godwits (split from Black-tailed), Spotted Redshanks, Marsh and Wood Sandpipers and Oriental Pratincoles, five Grey-headed Lapwings, ten Oriental Plovers, Greater Painted- snipe, Temminck’s and Long-toed Stints, a Ruff, Freckle- (or Spot-) breasted , Asian Pied and Chestnut-tailed , Plain-backed Sparrow, and Red-throated Pipit.

Early the following morning we headed north-eastwards towards the ibis haven of Tmatboey in remote Preah Vihear province. We stopped to eat breakfast and do some birding in the dry forests along the roadside. The much wanted White-rumped Falcon appeared on cue (a male), and we also enjoyed great views of a pair of tiny Collared Falconets. This really was a brilliant area in which to introduce ourselves to the dry deciduous forest avifauna. Chinese called out of site, raptors included both Jerdon’s and Black Bazas and Rufous-winged Buzzard, Blossom-headed Parakeets perched nicely for us, there was Eurasian Hoopoe, both Large and Common Woodshrikes, Large Cuckooshrike and White-browed Fantails at their nests, Small

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Minivet, and singing Burmese (or Neglected) Nuthatch. We reached our lodgings set amid the open woodlands of Tmatboey in time for lunch, and began our exploration of the area in the afternoon.

A huge Giant Ibis heads for its perch in a dead tree (Craig Robson)

The next two-and-a-half days were spent thoroughly exploring the Tmatboey area. Obviously, our initial efforts focused on getting good views of the two endangered ibis species, the amazing Giant and striking White-shouldered, and we ended up with multiple perched and flight views of both (three of the former and

Incredible views of Yellow-legged Buttonquail (Craig Robson) eight to ten of the latter). Much of our birding was done in the fairly open dry woodlands, which have a grassy understorey and are interspersed with small areas of rice-paddy. Woolly-necked and Lesser Adjutant

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Storks showed well, there were several Chinese Francolins, Changeable and Mountain Hawk Eagles, numerous Rufous-winged Buzzards, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Indian Cuckoo, Brown Fish Owl in a nest-

Bengal Florican at Pralay Grasslands (Craig Robson) cavity with its well-grown youngster, Indochinese Cuckooshrike, Burmese Shrike, Indochinese Bush Lark, and Brown, Rufescent and Grey-breasted Prinias. At a waterhole we scoped the shy Pale-capped Pigeon and also had some fleeting views of Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush. Woodpeckers are a feature of this habitat, and this time included Rufous-bellied, Yellow-crowned, Black-headed, White-bellied and Great Slaty.

Asian Golden Weaver at the nest (Craig Robson)

Time spent by a secluded river brought us Orange-breasted and Thick-billed Green Pigeons, Violet and Banded Bay Cuckoos, Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoos, Stork-billed and Black-capped Kingfishers, Blue- bearded Bee-eater, two amazing Banded Broadbills, Swinhoe’s Minivet, Pale-legged Leaf Warbler, Abbott’s

8 BirdQuest Tour Report Cambodia & Laos www.birdquest-tours.com and Scaly-crowned Babblers, Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher, and superb little Van Hasselt’s Sunbirds. In another area we were lucky enough to get great close-ups of a bewildered Yellow-legged Buttonquail and an unexpected roosting Savanna Nightjar. The guesthouse garden and feeding station was a hotspot as usual, with Brown Boobook, Rufous Treepie, Red-billed Blue Magpie, and White-crested Laughingthrush.

Nesting pair of Mekong Wagtails (Craig Robson)

We left Tmatboey very early in the morning and headed down to the Tonle Sap floodplain, and the Pralay Grasslands of Stung District. We met up with the site managers and local guides and, in no time at all we were enjoying or first views of Bengal Florican. This surely must be the best single site to visit for this species anywhere in the world, and it would be hard to miss it at this time of year. During this visit we counted a minimum of ten, had multiple close good views, and even saw a male displaying. Walking a circuit through the short grassland we also found a handful of Common (or Small) Buttonquails, one of which showed really well on the ground. Also of interest were Horsfield’s (or Australasian) Bushlark, Oriental Skylark, Oriental, Manchurian and Black-browed Reed Warblers, Striated Grassbird, and many Bluethroats.

Irrawaddy Dolphin near Kratie (Craig Robson)

We checked into our accommodation at Kompong Thom and in the afternoon birded nearby Krous Krom. This area is not what it once was as far as wetland habitat goes, but still produced some gems, with Baillon’s and Ruddy-breasted Crakes, Red Avadavat, and a Chestnut-eared Bunting. Best of all, and most significant,

9 BirdQuest Tour Report Cambodia & Laos www.birdquest-tours.com was the gathering of approximately 120 Yellow-breasted Buntings, a valuable roost of this now Endangered Siberian breeder.

From Kompong Thom we embarked on the rather long drive to Kratie. This year we took an alternative route, crossing the Mekong River by ferry. A good number of Small Pratincoles and a busy breeding colony of Blue-tailed Bee-eaters kept us entertained while we waited for the boat. We soon arrived at our hotel in Kratie and in the afternoon Mardy guided us to a good spot for the localised Asian Golden Weaver. We were surprised to see them nesting in the top of some large spreading ‘rain trees’ and they gave us some great looks. We found a nice range of other species here, best of which was a calling Chestnut-winged Cuckoo that came swooping-in to investigate us. Ruddy-breasted Crake performed and there were fleeting views of Pallas’s Grasshopper Warbler.

After breakfast the next morning we drove to Kampi, north of Kratie, where we boarded boats in order to explore the Mekong River channel and islands. Our target bird here was the regionally endemic Mekong Wagtail, and it wasn’t too long before we spotted a pair that were both feeding young at a (hidden) nest. Manoeuvring the boats carefully – difficult with the firm current – we were able to get very satisfactory views. Moving back towards shore then enabled us to experience the other main attraction in this area, an inland population of rare Irrawaddy Dolphins, one of the last along the Mekong. We reckoned on at least ten and we had some great looks at them surfacing close to our vessels.

Cambodian Tailorbird (Craig Robson)

From Kampi we drove back to our hotel in Kratie and then headed off on the long drive to Kampot. Our only birding stop was a typically scrubby site for the recently discovered Cambodian Tailorbird, and it proved to be a real performer! really can be very territorial.

Kampot was our base for visiting the unique Bokor Plateau. The amazing habitats around Bokor include a distinctive dwarf forest that is only 5-10m in height, growing on the acid and skeletal soils of the sandstone plateau. This community is often distinguished by the conifer-like trees Dacrydium elatum and Dacrycarpus (Podocarpus) imbricatus. On ridgelines or other areas exposed to strong winds, the trees reach no more than 5m in height and Sphagnum bogs are also present along with other seasonally wet heath-like habitats. Unfortunately the area is not without its problems and there are some large–scale developments going on. Hopefully this extensive montane region will be big enough to cope, and retain large enough untouched

10 BirdQuest Tour Report Cambodia & Laos www.birdquest-tours.com areas. Our birding was pretty much focused along a single trail system on the plateau and along the forested access roadsides at lower levels. Along the forest trails we succeeded in getting multiple views, with a bit of work by Craig, of three top birds: Chestnut-headed Partridge, Blue Pitta, and Indochinese Green Magpie.

The beautiful Bokor Plateau (Craig Robson)

There was a good back-up list too, including Barred Cuckoo-Dove, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Orange- breasted and Red-headed Trogons, Long-tailed and Silver-breasted Broadbills, Blyth’s Shrike-babbler, Ochraceous Bulbul, Arctic, Kloss’s Leaf and Alström’s (or Plain-tailed) Warblers, White-browed Scimitar Babbler, Streaked Wren-babbler, Mugimaki Flycatcher, White-throated Rock Thrush, and Black-throated Sunbird. Roadside birding was pretty good too, with Mountain Hawk-Eagle, Himalayan Buzzard, many Great and Wreathed Hornbills, Moustached and Green-eared Barbets, Black-winged Cuckooshrike, and Swinhoe’s Minivet. Green Peafowl was heard calling distantly from an inaccessible area in the evening (for the third year running). Dusk brought superb Great Eared and Large-tailed Nightjars.

On one afternoon we explored the saltpans and other coastal habitats near Kampot, where, amongst other things, we found Yellow Bittern, Peregrine Falcon, Ruddy-breasted Crake, Pacific Golden and Grey Plovers, both sand plovers, Eurasian Whimbrel, Eurasian Curlew, good numbers of Red-necked and Long-toed Stints, Curlew Sandpiper, five Broad-billed Sandpipers, several Caspian Terns, Germain’s Swiftlet, and Golden-bellied Gerygone .

Before we knew it our time was up, and it was time to head off to Phnom Penh Airport. It had been a great birding adventure, with an eventful finale of good birds at Bokor to leave us with good memories of a rewarding and exciting trip.

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SYSTEMATIC LIST OF SPECIES RECORDED DURING THE TOUR

Species which were heard but not seen are indicated by the symbol (H). Species which were not personally recorded by the leader are indicated by the symbol (NL).

Chinese pintadeanus Very common at Tmatboey, with a couple of good sightings. Chestnut-headed Partridge Arborophila cambodiana Two groups of around four each at Bokor. Good views. Red Junglefowl Gallus gallus Green Peafowl Pavo muticus (H) A male heard calling distantly; on the way up to Bokor. Lesser Whistling Duck Dendrocygna javanica Knob-billed Duck (Comb D) Sarkidiornis melanotos 500 at ATT. Cambodia is it’s South-East Asia stronghold. Cotton Pygmy Goose Nettapus coromandelianus 300 at Ang Trapeang Thmor. Indian Spot-billed Duck Anas poecilorhyncha Garganey Anas querquedula 500 at ATT. Little Grebe Tachybaptus ruficollis Milky Stork Mycteria cinerea Excellent perched views of 2 at Prek Toal. A Milky x Painted hybrid there and 1 at ATT.

Milky Stork at Prek Toal (Craig Robson)

Painted Stork Mycteria leucocephala 350+ seen in Cambodia. Asian Openbill Anastomus oscitans 1000+ in Cambodia. Woolly-necked Stork Ciconia episcopus Just three at Tmatboey. Black-necked Stork Ephippiorhynchus asiaticus Three at Ang Trapeang Thmor. Lesser Adjutant Leptoptilos javanicus Scattered sightings totalling 29 birds. Greater Adjutant Leptoptilos dubius At least 30 close perched birds at Prek Toal; amazing to see them like this. Black-headed Ibis Threskiornis melanocephalus c.50 at Prek Toal. White-shouldered Ibis Pseudibis davisoni 8-10 of these Critically Endangered ibises at Tmatboey. Giant Ibis Pseudibis gigantea Just three seen well at Tmatboey; where they were very shy again this year. Yellow Bittern Ixobrychus sinensis Cinnamon Bittern Ixobrychus cinnamomeus Black Bittern Dupetor flavicollis (NL) Black-crowned Night Heron Nycticorax nycticorax Striated Heron (Little H) Butorides striata Chinese Pond Heron Ardeola bacchus The commonest and most widespread pond heron. Javan Pond Heron Ardeola speciosa One was noted coming into breeding plumage at Prek Toal.

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Eastern Cattle Egret Bubulcus coromandus Grey Heron Ardea cinerea

Grey Heron at Prek Toal (Craig Robson)

Purple Heron Ardea purpurea Eastern Great Egret Ardea modesta Intermediate Egret Egretta intermedia Little Egret Egretta garzetta Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus One at Prek Toal. Mega record. Well spotted Dave. Spot-billed Pelican Pelecanus philippensis At least 2,000 along the main channel at Prek Toal; incredible.

Black-headed Ibis (Craig Robson)

Little Cormorant Phalacrocorax niger Indian Cormorant Phalacrocorax fuscicollis At least 500 at Prek Toal. Great Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo At least 10 at Prek Toal; four at ATT; five at Kampi Pool. Oriental Darter Anhinga melanogaster At least 200 at Prek Toal. Western Osprey (Osprey) Pandion haliaetus One at Prek Toal. Black-winged Kite (B-shouldered K) Elanus caeruleus

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Jerdon’s Baza Aviceda jerdoni One en route to Tmatboey. Black Baza Aviceda leuphotes Three on the way to Tmatboey and one there. Crested Serpent Eagle Spilornis cheela Short-toed Snake Eagle Circaetus gallicus A perched bird at Ang Trapeang Thmor. Changeable Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus limnaeetus Two singles at Tmatboey. Mountain Hawk-Eagle Nisaetus nipalensis A good year, with 2 at Ban Nahin, 1 at Tmatboey and 1-2 at Bokor. Greater Spotted Eagle Clanga clanga Six at Ang Trapeang Thmor. Crested Goshawk Accipiter trivirgatus Shikra Accipiter badius Mating pair with female nest-building at Ban Nahin. Scattered elsewhere. Eastern Marsh Harrier Circus spilonotus Not uncommon over open fields and grasslands. Pied Harrier Circus melanoleucos Ten at Ang Trapeang Thmor, and three at Krous Krom. Black Kite Milvus migrans Five at Ang Trapeang Thmor. Resident govinda. Grey-headed Fish Eagle Haliaeetus ichthyaetus Two at Prek Toal, where rather confiding. Rufous-winged Buzzard Butastur liventer Common in the dry forests and woodlands of Cambodia. Grey-faced Buzzard Butastur indicus Just one at Bokor. Himalayan Buzzard Buteo burmanicus One at Bokor. White-rumped Falcon (W-r Pygmy-f) Polihierax insignis A male seen very well along the way to Tmatboey. Collared Falconet Microhierax coerulescens An excellent pair en route to Tmatboey. Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Peregrine Falcon Falco peregrinus One at Kampot Saltpans, Bengal Florican Houbaropsis bengalensis At least 5 males and 5 females at Pralay Grasslands. One displayed. White-breasted Waterhen Amaurornis phoenicurus Baillon’s Crake Porzana pusilla One flushed at Krous Krom. Ruddy-breasted Crake Porzana fusca Multiple scattered sightings this year. Watercock Gallicrex cinerea Seen very well in flight, thanks to Mardy, at Me Chre, Tonle Sap, and another at ATT. Black-backed Swamphen Porphyrio indicus Common Moorhen Gallinula chloropus Sarus Crane Grus antigone 18 Ang Trapeang Thmor, and three at Pralay Grasslands.

Common (or Small) Buttonquail at Pralay Grasslands (Craig Robson)

Common Buttonquail (Small B) Turnix sylvaticus Five at Pralay Grasslands. Yellow-legged Buttonquail Turnix tanki Brilliant views of one at Tmatboey. Barred Buttonquail Turnix suscitator One seen very well on the ground at Ang Trapeang Thmor. Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus River Lapwing Vanellus duvaucelii Three at Ban Nasang, and two 116.5 km ENE of Vientiane. All on the Mekong R. Grey-headed Lapwing Vanellus cinereus Five scoped at Ang Trapeang Thmor.

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Red-wattled Lapwing Vanellus indicus Pacific Golden Plover Pluvialis fulva Grey Plover (Black-bellied P) Pluvialis squatarola Four at Kampot Saltpans. Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus 7 on the Mekong in Laos; 5 at ATT; 60 at Kampot Saltpans. Lesser Sand Plover Charadrius mongolus 120 at Kampot Saltpans. Greater Sand Plover Charadrius leschenaultii 80 at Kampot Saltpans. Oriental Plover Charadrius veredus A flock of ten At ATT, including some superb breeding plumaged individuals. Greater Painted-snipe Rostratula benghalensis Five at Ang Trapeang Thmor. Pheasant-tailed Jacana Hydrophasianus chirurgus 200 at ATT. Bronze-winged Jacana Metopidius indicus Just eight at ATT. Pin-tailed Snipe Gallinago stenura Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago

Small Pratincole (Craig Robson)

Eastern Black-tailed Godwit Limosa melanuroides A flock of c.100 at Ang Trapeang Thmor. Eurasian Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus Four at Kampot saltpans. Eurasian Curlew Numenius arquata Three at Kampot saltpans. Spotted Redshank Tringa erythropus 300 at ATT. Marsh Sandpiper Tringa stagnatilis 300 at ATT; ten at Kampot Saltpans. Common Greenshank Tringa nebularia Wood Sandpiper Tringa glareola 500 at ATT; 12 at Kampot Saltpans. Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Red-necked Stint Calidris ruficollis 80 at Kampot Saltpans; one at ATT. Temminck’s Stint Calidris temminckii One at ATT. Long-toed Stint Calidris subminuta 12 at Kampot Saltpans; eight at ATT. Curlew Sandpiper Calidris ferruginea Just six at Kampot Saltpans. Broad-billed Sandpiper Limicola falcinellus Five at Kampot Saltpans. Great scope views. Ruff Philomachus pugnax One scoped at Ang Trapeang Thmor. Oriental Pratincole Glareola maldivarum Common in Cambodia. Small Pratincole Glareola lactea Eight at the Mekong crossing en route to Kratie. Caspian Tern Hydroprogne caspia Two at Kampot Saltpans. Whiskered Tern Chlidonias hybrida Rock Pigeon (introduced) (R Pigeon) Columba livia Pale-capped Pigeon Columba punicea One scoped at a waterhole at Tmatboey.

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Red Turtle Dove (R Collared-d) Streptopelia tranquebarica Spotted Dove Streptopelia chinensis Barred Cuckoo-Dove Macropygia unchall Common at Bokor. Zebra Dove (Peaceful D) Geopelia striata Orange-breasted Green Pigeon Treron bicincta Ten at Tmatboey. Thick-billed Green Pigeon Treron curvirostra Yellow-footed Green Pigeon Treron phoenicopterus Nine annamensis at Tmatboey. Yellow-vented Green Pigeon Treron seimundi Three in a fruiting fig at Ban Nahin, Laos. Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon Treron sphenura Two scoped along the access road to Bokor. Green Imperial Pigeon Ducula aenea Small numbers at Tmatboey. Mountain Imperial Pigeon Ducula badia Small numbers at Bokor.

Blue-tailed Bee-eater along the Mekong River (Craig Robson)

Vernal Hanging Parrot Loriculus vernalis Alexandrine Parakeet Psittacula eupatria Just a few at Tmatboey. Blossom-headed Parakeet Psittacula roseate Common at Tmatboey, with 73 logged. Red-breasted Parakeet Psittacula alexandri. Greater Coucal Centropus sinensis Lesser Coucal Centropus bengalensis Green-billed Malkoha Rhopodytes tristis Chestnut-winged Cuckoo Clamator coromandus One at Kratie. Thanks to Mardy for this spot. Asian Koel (Common K) Eudynamys scolopaceus Violet Cuckoo Chrysococcyx xanthorhynchus One seen and one heard at Tmatboey. Banded Bay Cuckoo Cacomantis sonneratii Scattered, with one seen Plaintive Cuckoo Cacomantis merulinus Square-tailed Drongo-Cuckoo Surniculus lugubris Scattered, with two seen at Tmatboey. Indian Cuckoo Cuculus micropterus One seen and one heard in the Tmatboey area. Western Barn owl Tyto alba Four seen in daytime at Ang Trapeang Thmor. Collared Scops Owl Otus lettia (H) Oriental Scops Owl Otus sunia Bad luck this time at Tmatboey, for various reasons! Brown Fish Owl Ketupa zeylonensis 4 in total at Tmatboey, including a pair at a nest with a well-grown youngster. Spotted Wood Owl Strix seloputo A superb roosting individual at Ang Trapeang Thmor.

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Brown Wood Owl Strix leptogrammica One in the daytime at Angkor, thanks to Mardy’s friend. Collared Owlet Glaucidium brodiei (H) Asian Barred Owlet Glaucidium cuculoides 1 bruegeli at Ban Nasang, Laos; 5 rusty-streaked deignani in Cambodia. Spotted Owlet Athene brama Two in the daytime at Ang Trapeang Thmor. Brown Boobook Ninox scutulata Two at Tmatboey and several heard. Great Eared Nightjar Lyncornis macrotis A handful showed really well on the way up to Bokor. Large-tailed Nightjar Caprimulgus macrurus Four seen nicely at Bokor. Savanna Nightjar Caprimulgus affinis Two seen at Tmatboey; heard at Ban Nasang.

Savanna Nightjar at Tmatboey (Craig Robson)

Crested Treeswift Hemiprocne coronata Very common at Tmatboey. Himalayan Swiftlet Aerodramus brevirostris 180 rogersi Ban Nahin & 30+ Bokor (race unknown); scattered others. Germain’s Swiftlet Aerodramus germani Certainly identified around Kampot, where hundreds mass at dusk. Brown-backed Needletail Hirundapus giganteus 12 at Ban Nahin. Asian Palm Swift Cypsiurus balasiensis House Swift Apus affinis Orange-breasted Trogon Harpactes oreskios Seen at Bokor, but elusive. Red-headed Trogon Harpactes erythrocephalus A couple at Bokor. Indian Roller Coracias benghalensis Stork-billed Kingfisher Pelargopsis capensis Three at Tmatboey, including a noisy pair by ‘the river’. White-throated Kingfisher Halcyon smyrnensis Black-capped Kingfisher Halcyon pileata Scattered sightings. Common Kingfisher Alcedo atthis Pied Kingfisher Ceryle rudis Blue-bearded Bee-eater Nyctyornis athertoni One at Tmatboey. Green Bee-eater (Little G B-e) Merops orientalis Blue-tailed Bee-eater Merops philippinus 35+ nesting in the sandy Mekong R bank near Kratie. Still excavating. Chestnut-headed Bee-eater Merops leschenaulti Widespread, with an active nest-hole at Tmatboey. Eurasian Hoopoe (Common H) Upupa epops Five at Tmatboey. Oriental Pied Hornbill Anthracoceros albirostris Great Hornbill Buceros bicornis At least 25 logged at Bokor; great to see so many. Wreathed Hornbill Aceros undulatus At least ten at Bokor. Great views of this and the last species. Lineated Barbet Megalaima lineata

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Green-eared Barbet Megalaima faiostricta At Ban Nahin and Bokor. Regional endemic. Moustached Barbet Megalaima incognita Similarly distributed to the last species but commoner. Subspecies euroa. Blue-eared Barbet Megalaima australis Coppersmith Barbet Megalaima haemacephala White-browed Piculet Sasia ochracea Two at Ban Nasang. Rufous-bellied Woodpecker Dendrocopos hyperythrus A single female at Tmatboey (annamensis). Grey-capped Pygmy Woodpecker Dendrocopos canicapillus Freckle-breasted Woodpecker (Spot-b W) Dendrocopos analis Three at Ang Trapeang Thmor. Yellow-crowned Woodpecker Dendrocopos mahrattensis Two singles at Tmatboey; quite a scarce woodpecker.

Yellow-crowned Woodpecker (Craig Robson)

White-bellied Woodpecker Dryocopus javensis A male showed beautifully at Tmatboey. Greater Yellownape Chrysophlegma flavinucha Four at Tmatboey. Lesser Yellownape chloropus Just one at Tmatboey. Laced Woodpecker Picus vittatus (H) Black-headed Woodpecker Picus erythropygius This distinctive regional endemic was fairly common at Tmatboey. Common Flameback Dinopium javanense Two pairs at Tmatboey. Greater Flameback Chrysocolaptes lucidus Pale-headed Woodpecker Gecinulus grantia Really good views of one at Ban Nahin, Laos. Rufous Woodpecker Micropternus brachyurus One seen at Ban Nahin. Great Slaty Woodpecker Mulleripicus pulverulentus Four at Tmatboey, including a wing-flicking trio. brilliant bird. Long-tailed Broadbill Psarisomus dalhousiae Four of these beauties at Bokor.. Silver-breasted Broadbill Serilophus lunatus One briefly at Bokor. Banded Broadbill Eurylaimus javanicus A cracking pair by ‘the river’ at Tmatboey. Blue Pitta Hydrornis cyanea Two showed along a forest trail at Bokor. Many others heard. Golden-bellied Gerygone (Flyeater) Gerygone sulphurea (H) Bar-winged Flycatcher-shrike Hemipus picatus Large Woodshrike Tephrodornis virgatus Common Woodshrike Tephrodornis pondicerianus Ashy Woodswallow Artamus fuscus Three at Me Chre, Cambodia. Common Iora Aegithina tiphia Great Iora Aegithina lafresnayei Scattered throughout. Races innotata in Laos, and xanthotis in Cambodia.

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Large Cuckooshrike Coracina macei Common at Tmatboey. Pair seen nest-building. Indochinese Cuckooshrike Coracina polioptera Three at Tmatboey. Black-winged Cuckooshrike Coracina melaschistos Three at Bokor. Swinhoe’s Minivet (Brown-rumped M) Pericrocotus cantonensis At Tmatboey, en route to Kratie, and at Bokor. Ashy Minivet Pericrocotus divaricatus Three at Ban Nahin, Laos. Small Minivet Pericrocotus cinnamomeus Common at Tmatboey. Pair seen nest-building. Scarlet Minivet Pericrocotus speciosus Brown Shrike Lanius cristatus Burmese Shrike Lanius collurioides Small numbers at Tmatboey, including a mating pair. White-bellied Erpornis (W-b Yuhina) Erpornis zantholeuca Ban Nahin (tyrannulus) & Bokor (canescens); common. Blyth’s Shrike-babbler Pteruthius aeralatus Several nominate aeralatus at Bokor. Black-naped Oriole Oriolus chinensis Black-hooded Oriole Oriolus xanthornus Black Drongo Dicrurus macrocercus Ashy Drongo Dicrurus leucophaeus Lesser Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus remifer Hair-crested Drongo Dicrurus hottentottus Greater Racket-tailed Drongo Dicrurus paradiseus White-throated Fantail Rhipidura albicollis (H) Heard along the access road to Bokor. White-browed Fantail Rhipidura aureola Frequent at Tmatboey; both sexes incubating on a nest. Malaysian Pied Fantail (Pied F) Rhipidura javanica Scattered at Cambodian wetlands.

White-browed Fantail incubating; on the way to Tmatboey (Craig Robson)

Black-naped Monarch Hypothymis azurea Asian Paradise Flycatcher Terpsiphone paradisi (H) Red-billed Blue Magpie Urocissa erythrorhyncha Frequent at Tmatboey. Indochinese Green Magpie Cissa hypoleuca Two or three stunning hypoleuca at Bokor. A tough bird to see well. Rufous Treepie Dendrocitta vagabunda Three at Tmatboey. Dark-hooded sakeratensis. Racket-tailed Treepie Crypsirina temia Common in Cambodia, with frequent sightings. Southern Jungle Crow Corvus macrorhynchos Regular throughout. Split from Large-billed. But see notes. Grey-headed Canary-flycatcher Culicicapa ceylonensis Horsfield’s Bush Lark (Australasian Bushlark) Mirafra javanica Several at Pralay Grasslands. Indochinese Bush Lark Mirafra erythrocephala This regional endemic was regularly encountered at Tmatboey. Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula Three at both Pralay Grasslands. Black-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus atriceps A few in Laos and at Bokor. Black-crested Bulbul Pycnonotus flaviventris Red-whiskered Bulbul Pycnonotus jocosus (NL)

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Sooty-headed Bulbul Pycnonotus aurigaster Stripe-throated Bulbul Pycnonotus finlaysoni Yellow-vented Bulbul Pycnonotus goiavier Streak-eared Bulbul Pycnonotus blanfordi A common regional endemic. Bare-faced Bulbul Pycnonotus hualon 15 logged at Ban Nahin. Endemic to limestone of C Laos; described in 2009. Puff-throated Bulbul Alophoixus pallidus Small numbers in the Lao forests. Ochraceous Bulbul Alophoixus ochraceus Small numbers at Bokor. Grey-eyed Bulbul Iole propinqua Scattered in forests throughout (nominate in Laos and simulator in Cambodia). Grey-throated Martin (G-t Sand-martin) chinensis 16 along the Mekong in Laos. (Common S-m, Bank Swallow) Riparia riparia rustica Wire-tailed Swallow Hirundo smithii Four at Ban Nasang. A lovely swallow. nipalense About 40 at Ban Nahin. Red-rumped Swallow daurica A common wintering species in Cambodia. Striated Swallow Cecropis striolata Six at Ban Nahin where it breeds. Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus Radde’s Warbler Phylloscopus schwarzi Yellow-browed Warbler (Inornate W) Phylloscopus inornatus Arctic Warbler Phylloscopus borealis One calling at Bokor. Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides One at Ban Nasang. Two-barred Warbler Phylloscopus plumbeitarsus Pale-legged Leaf Warbler Phylloscopus tenellipes Widespread but only seen once, at Tmatboey. Kloss’s Leaf Warbler (White-tailed L-w) Phylloscopus ogilviegranti Small numbers on the Bokor Plateau. Grey-crowned Warbler Seicercus tephrocephalus Alström’s Warbler (Plain-tailed W) Seicercus soror A not uncommon winterer at Bokor, but surprisingly elusive. Oriental Reed Warbler orientalis Occasional in lowland Cambodian wetlands. Black-browed Reed Warbler Acrocephalus bistrigiceps As the last species. Manchurian Reed Warbler Acrocephalus tangorum One at Me Chre and two at Pralay Grasslands. Vulnerable. Thick-billed Warbler Iduna aedon Several along the Mekong in Laos. Lanceolated Warbler Locustella lanceolata Pallas’s Grasshopper Warbler (Rusty-rumped W) Locustella certhiola A couple fleetingly at Kratie Marshes. Striated Grassbird Megalurus palustris Zitting Cisticola (Fan-tailed Warbler) Cisticola juncidis Golden-headed Cisticola (Bright-h C) Cisticola exilis Brown Prinia Prinia polychroa Frequent sightings at Tmatboey. Rufescent Prinia Prinia rufescens Six at Tmatboey. Grey-breasted Prinia Prinia hodgsonii One at Tmatboey. Yellow-bellied Prinia Prinia flaviventris Scattered. Plain Prinia Prinia inornata Common Tailorbird Orthotomus sutorius Dark-necked Tailorbird Orthotomus atrogularis Cambodian Tailorbird Orthotomus chaktomuk A pair in roadside scrub in SW Kampong Cham Province. See notes. Large Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus hypoleucos (H) White-browed Scimitar Babbler Pomatorhinus schisticeps Common at Bokor (klossi). Sooty Babbler Stachyris herberti Easily seen this year, with about nine in all at Ban Nahin. Pin-striped Tit-Babbler (Striped T-b) Macronus gularis Common; lutescens in Laos & saraburiensis in Cambodia. Chestnut-capped Babbler Timalia pileata One showed at Kratie. Streaked Wren-babbler Napothera brevicaudata Two on our last morning at Bokor (griseigularis). Abbott’s Babbler Malacocincla abbotti One seen well by the river at Tmatboey. Scaly-crowned Babbler Malacopteron cinereum One seen at Tmatboey (indochinense). Puff-throated Babbler Pellorneum ruficeps One at Ban Nasang, and one at Bokor. Buff-breasted Babbler Pellorneum tickelli One at Ban Nahin. White-crested Laughingthrush Garrulax leucolophus Mainly seen in the garden of the guesthouse at Tmatboey. Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush Garrulax monileger About four sneaking around at Tmatboey. Indochinese Yuhina (Chestnut-collared Y) Yuhina torqueola Three at Ban Nahin were an overdue write-in.

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Oriental White-eye Zosterops palpebrosus Asian Fairy-bluebird Irena puella Burmese Nuthatch (Neglected N) Sitta neglecta Several seen very well at Tmatboey. Split from Chestnut-bellied. Velvet-fronted Nuthatch Sitta frontalis Common Hill Myna Gracula religiosa A good scattering of sightings. Great Myna (White-vented M) grandis Common Myna Acridotheres tristis Black-collared Gracupica nigricollis Asian Pied Starling (Pied Myna) Gracupica contra Two at Ang Trapeang Thmor, and two at Kampot Saltpans. Chestnut-tailed Starling Sturnus malabaricus One at ATT. Eyebrowed Thrush Turdus obscurus A flock of about ten at Bokor. Oriental Magpie-Robin Copsychus saularis White-rumped Shama Copsychus malabaricus Asian Brown Flycatcher Muscicapa dauurica Hainan Blue Flycatcher Cyornis hainanus Males at Ban Nahin, Angkor, and Tmatboey. Hill Blue Flycatcher Cyornis banyumas A pair at Ban Nahin. Tickell’s Blue Flycatcher Cyornis tickelliae Three at Tmatboey. Verditer Flycatcher Eumyias thalassinus

White-throated Rock Thrush at Angkor (Craig Robson)

Siberian Blue Robin Luscinia cyane Ban Nahin and Bokor. Best seen on trails at the latter. Bluethroat Luscinia svecica Widespread in wetlands; a common winterer. Siberian Rubythroat Luscinia calliope Great views of a male by the Mekong R in Vientiane. Widely heard. Blue Whistling Thrush Myiophonus caeruleus Two at Ban Nahin and one at Bokor. Mugimaki Flycatcher Ficedula Mugimaki Two seen and three heard at Bokor. Taiga Flycatcher (Red-throated F) Ficedula albicilla Blue Rock Thrush Monticola solitarius Ban Nasang; Ban Nahin; Bokor. Wintering pandoo (resident on limestone?). Asian Rock Thrush Monticola philippensis Just one at Bokor. Split by some from the latter. Wintering. White-throated Rock Thrush Monticola gularis A male at Angkor, and a male and female at Bokor. Stejneger’s Stonechat Saxicola stejnegeri Common. Split from Eastern Stonechat S. maurus. Pied Bush Chat (P Bushchat) Saxicola caprata Jerdon’s Bush Chat (J Bushchat) Saxicola jerdoni At least eight at Ban Nasang, Laos; where it breeds Blue-winged Leafbird Chloropsis cochinchinensis Golden-fronted Leafbird Chloropsis aurifrons

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Thick-billed Flowerpecker Dicaeum agile A dozen or so tail-wagglers at Ban Nahin. Yellow-vented Flowerpecker Dicaeum chrysorrheum Two at Ban Nahin. Plain Flowerpecker Dicaeum minullum Two at Ban Nahin. Fire-breasted Flowerpecker Dicaeum ignipectus A few endemic cambodianum at Bokor. No red breast-patch. Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker Dicaeum cruentatum Ruby-cheeked Sunbird Chalcoparia singalensis Brown-throated Sunbird (Plain-t S) Anthreptes malacensis (NL) Seen I the hotel garden at Siem Reap. Purple-naped Sunbird Hypogramma hypogrammicum Common Ban Nahin. Thought to be closer to spiderhunters. Van Hasselt's Sunbird Leptocoma brasiliana A few of these little beauties by the river at Tmatboey. Purple Sunbird Cinnyris asiaticus Common at Tmatboey. A nest with 2+ eggs. Olive-backed Sunbird Cinnyris jugularis Scattered. Nest-building at Tmatboey. Black-throated Sunbird Aethopyga saturata One at Ban Nahin (petersi); several at Bokor (cambodiana). Crimson Sunbird Aethopyga siparaja Frequent at Bokor (mangini). Little Spiderhunter Arachnothera longirostra House Sparrow Passer domesticus Plain-backed Sparrow Passer flaveolus A handful at ATT, and ten with two recently fledged juveniles at Kratie. Eurasian Tree Sparrow Passer montanus Asian Golden Weaver Ploceus hypoxanthus 25 with 12+ occupied nests at Kratie. Streaked Weaver Ploceus manyar Four with Baya Weavers at Me Chre, Tonle Sap.. Baya Weaver Ploceus philippinus 100 at Me Chre. Red Avadavat Amandava amandava Just four at Krous Krom. White-rumped Munia Lonchura striata Scaly-breasted Munia Lonchura punctulata Eastern Grey-headed Wagtail Motacilla [tschutschensis] macronyx A few in Cambodian wetlands. Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Amur Wagtail Motacilla [alba] leucopsis A few along the Mekong R in Laos. Mekong Wagtail Motacilla samveasnae Nice views of a pair carrying food at Kampi, near Kratie. Regional endemic. Richard’s Pipit Anthus richardi Paddyfield Pipit Anthus rufulus Olive-backed Pipit Anthus hodgsoni Red-throated Pipit Anthus cervinus Chestnut-eared Bunting Emberiza fucata One at Krous Krom. Yellow-breasted Bunting Emberiza aureola At least 120 at Krous Krom; a good site for the species.

Reaching the Tonle Sap at dawn (Craig Robson)

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MAMMALS Finlayson’s Squirrel (Variable S) Callosciurus finlaysonii 4 reddish menamicus in Laos; 4 anellatus in Cambodia. Cambodian Striped Squirrel Tamiops rodolphei Indochinese Ground Squirrel (Berdmore’s S) Menetes berdmorei Two at Tmatboey. Brown Rat (Norway R) Rattus norvegicus (NL) Lyle’s Flying Fox Pteropus lylei Lesser False Vampire Bat Megaderma spasma A single lonely individual at Angkor Lao Langur (Laotian L) Trachypithecus laotum Twelve seen in the limestone area near Ban Nahin. Long-tailed Macaque (Crab-eating M) Macaca fascicularis Pileated Gibbon Nomascus pileatus (H) Quite a few heard, tantalizingly close, at Bokor. Irrawaddy Dolphin Orcaella brevirostris 10 at Kampi, near Kratie - one of the last surviving Mekong R populations. Eld’s Deer Rucervus eldii Nine this year at ATT. Endangered and already extinct in and .

Lesser False Vampire Bat at Angkor (Craig Robson)

NOTES TO THE SYSTEMATIC LIST

Great White Pelican Pelecanus onocrotalus Considered extirpated in Cambodia, where it was historically “presumed resident on the Tonle Sap and along the coast, where it was more common” (The Birds of Cambodia: An Annotated Checklist; Goes, 2013). There is only one of ‘confirmed’ contemporary record (i.e. since 1970 and quite possible since the 1930s); a wounded adult photographed near Prek Toal on 25 March 2001. There were also three unconfirmed sightings between 1995 and 1997.

Southern Jungle Crow Corvus macrorhynchos Although the references say that this is the form throughout Indochina, Eastern Jungle Crow C. levaillantii would be much more likely, especially in Laos, as this is the crow in neighbouring Thailand.

Cambodian Tailorbird Orthotomus chaktomuk This endemic species was only described in 2013.

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APPENDIX 1

TOP 5 BIRDS OF THE TOUR 1st Bengal Florican 2nd Yellow-legged Buttonquail 3rd Spotted Wood Owl 4th Blue Pitta 5th Giant Ibis

APPENDIX 2 - Other fauna & flora recorded

REPTILES Tockay Gecko Gekko gecko Widespread locations, but particularly Tmatboey. Spiny-tailed Gecko Hemidactylus frenatus The only ‘house’ gecko identified. Garden Fence Lizard Calotes versicolor Identified at Tmatboey at least.

AMPHIBIANS Asian Painted Frog Kaloula pulchra House Tree-frog Rhacophorus leucomystax In the bathrooms at Tmatboey.

BUTTERFLIES Pallid Faun Melanocyma faunula Along the Fitness Loop, Bokor. Jungleglory Thaumantis diores Bokor at least. Beautiful blue upperwings. Tufted Jungleking Thauria aliris Ban Nahin, Laos. Common Commander Moduza procris Ban Nahin, Laos.

Pallid Faun at Bokor (Craig Robson)

PLANTS ‘Burman’s’ Sundew (Burmese S) Drosera burmannii As for the last species. Malabar Melastome Melasotoma malabathricum Bokor Plateau. ‘Bokor’ Pitcher-plant Nepenthes bokorensis Frequent in open acidic, sandy, marshy habitats on Bokor Plateau. Rose Myrtle Rhodmyrtus tomentosa Bokor Plateau. Needlewood Schima crenata Beautiful flowering tree/shrub at Bokor.

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