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Cambodia & Laos Greater Adjutants at Prek Toal (Craig Robson) CAMBODIA & LAOS 20 FEBRUARY – 7 MARCH 2015 LEADER: CRAIG ROBSON Another great tour to this bird-rich region brought us a long list of memorable sightings. Fine sunny weather prevailed, and we could have done with some rain by the end! In Laos, Bare-faced Bulbul, Sooty Babbler, Lao Langur and Jerdon’s Bushchat all showed well, and we also bumped into Yellow-vented Green Pigeon and Pale-headed Woodpecker. The bulk of the specialities were in Cambodia of course, with Chestnut- headed Partridge, Milky Stork and Greater Adjutant at one of the largest remaining ‘large waterbird’ breeding colonies in Asia, White-shouldered and Giant Ibises, White-rumped Falcon, Bengal Floricans (with some males displaying), flocks of Sarus Cranes, a scoped Pale-capped Pigeon, Spotted and Brown Wood Owls, an incredible 15 species of woodpecker, including Rufous-bellied Yellow-crowned and Black-headed, Blue Pitta, Mekong Wagtail, Manchurian Reed Warbler, the newly described Cambodian Tailorbird, and Asian Golden Weaver to name but a few. Most unexpected was a Great White Pelican at Prek Toal, for which there are few contemporary records. Our total of 354 bird species was by far the highest ever recorded on this tour. Irrawaddy Dolphin and Eld’s Deer headed-up the mammal list. 1 BirdQuest Tour Report Cambodia & Laos www.birdquest-tours.com The tour began in earnest at Vientiane, with an afternoon walk along the banks of the Mekong River. The pools, grassland and weedy patches harboured a surprisingly good range of winter migrants, and we enjoyed unusually good views of Bluethroat, Siberian Rubythroat and Thick-billed Warbler. Residents were represented by familiar species such as Little Ringed and Kentish Plovers, Great (or White-vented) Myna, Golden-headed Cisticola and Yellow-bellied Prinia. Bare-faced Bulbul at Ban Nahin (Werner Mueller) Predawn on our first full day, we drove to an area of the Mekong River where the very localised Jerdon’s Bushchat can easily be found. No sooner had we reached the riverbank, than we were picking out singing males atop the numerous bushes and other vegetation in the braided river channel. From the same position, we were also able to see River Lapwing, Chestnut-headed Bee-eater, the lovely Wire-tailed Swallow, and Grey-throated Martin. With a walk up and down the road nearby, we added Asian Barred Owlet, White- browed Piculet, Greenish and Grey-crowned Warblers, Puff-throated Babbler, and Ruby-cheeked Sunbird. Limestone pinnacles in the Ban Nahin region (Craig Robson) We paused for lunch before hitting the road to north Central Laos, and the limestone country of Ban Nahin. The following morning we explored the roadside forest in this limestone karst area. Soon after dawn at a viewpoint, we picked-out our first of at east 12 Lao (or Laotian) Langurs sunning itself on a pinnacle, safe from intrusion in this rugged landscape. Further along the road we did the double, with a foraging flock of 2 BirdQuest Tour Report Cambodia & Laos www.birdquest-tours.com dumpy Sooty Babblers and flycatching Bare-faced Bulbuls, our two main avian targets here - both restricted to the regions’ limestone terrain. During the next 24 hours in the Ban Nahin area we found a good variety of species, including Mountain Hawk Eagle, Yellow-vented Green Pigeon, Brown-backed Needletail, a brilliantly reactive Pale-headed Woodpecker, Rufous Woodpecker, Great Iora, Ashy Minivet, Puff-throated and Grey- eyed Bulbuls, flocks of locally resident Nepal House Martins, Striated Swallow, Buff-breasted Babbler, Hainan Blue Flycatcher, Siberian Blue Robin, Indochinese (or Chestnut-collared) Yuhina, Golden-fronted Leafbird, Thick-billed, Yellow-vented and Plain Flowerpeckers, and Purple-naped and Crimson Sunbirds. Brown Wood Owl at Angkor (Craig Robson) The following morning we took a flight to Siem Reap in Cambodia. After meeting our local guide, Mardy, we spent the rest of the day exploring the cultural splendours of Angkor. Mardy’s extensive knowledge Part of the Bayon Temple, Angkor (Craig Robson) contributed to a very interesting and memorable experience, as we explored the Bayon Temple and Angkor Wat itself. There were some birds to look at too, with our best finds being a superb Brown Wood Owl near its day-roost, an Asian Rock Thrush (split from Blue), and a nice male White-throated Rock Thrush; as well as the more expected Asian Barred Owlet, Hainan Blue Flycatcher and Blue Rock Thrush. 3 BirdQuest Tour Report Cambodia & Laos www.birdquest-tours.com We counted at least 2,000 Spot-billed Pelicans at Prek Toal (Craig Robson) Away early the next morning to the Great Lake (Tonle Sap), we boarded a motorboat before sunrise in order to reach the Prek Toal Bird Sanctuary, eating our breakfasts on board. This year we took a new route, heading south from the extreme north-west tip of the lake. On arrival at the sanctuary, we transferred to Oriental Darter (Craig Robson) smaller boats in order to negotiate the shallower channels. As we chugged slowly along the narrowing creeks, we passed concentrations of Oriental Darters and Spot-billed Pelicans, mixed hordes of cormorants (three species) and egrets (four species), and very confiding Grey-headed Fish Eagles. During this particular trip, there were unusually good numbers of gaudy breeding-plumaged Greater Adjutants at point-blank 4 BirdQuest Tour Report Cambodia & Laos www.birdquest-tours.com range, as well as several excellent Milky Storks - here at one of its only inland breeding places in the world. During the morning we also enjoyed good numbers of Black-headed ibises, Yellow and Cinnamon Bitterns, Great White Pelican at Prek Toal (Dave Williamson) Black-crowned Night Heron, Striated, Grey and Purple Herons, Black-backed Swamphen (split from Purple), and large numbers of Whiskered Terns. Probably our bird of the day, was a Great White Pelican that Dave first noticed amongst the Spot-billed’s. This is such a rare bird in the region these days, with hardly any Manchurian Reed Warbler (Craig Robson) contemporary records. As the temperature rose, flocks of Painted Storks and Asian Openbills took to the air, and we headed back across the lake, where we ate lunch at a floating village. In the afternoon we returned 5 BirdQuest Tour Report Cambodia & Laos www.birdquest-tours.com to a spot where Craig had found a wintering Manchurian Reed Warbler a few weeks earlier. Fortunately the bird was still present and we eventually managed to tempt it into view. Our second day's birding in Cambodia took us to the fascinating area of Ang Trapeang Thmor Wildlife Sanctuary, a man-made water body surrounded by rich wetlands, woodland and arable country. Arriving at dawn we paused for breakfast among the dry rice paddies. We were hoping to spot some Sarus Cranes but they were rather too distant from this point. Perched Short-toed Snake and Greater Spotted Eagles were good though. After briefly calling-in at the sanctuary headquarters, we headed off to an area of woodland edge and ricefields, where we were fortunate to see a total of nine rather shy Eld’s Deer, an endangered ungulate with a very patchy range. This was also a good area for roosting owls, with four Western Barn, and a beautiful Spotted Wood, as well as Asian Barred and Spotted Owlets! Sarus Cranes flapped by at close Spotted Wood Owl at ATT (Craig Robson) range, and we had excellent views of a Barred Buttonquail. The rest of the day was spent at various wetland vantage points, where our growing tally included 100s of Lesser Whistling, Knob-billed (or Comb) and Indian Spot-billed Ducks, Cotton Pygmy Geese and Garganey, three stately Black-necked Storks, Eastern Marsh and Pied Harriers, Watercock, 100s of Black-backed Swamphens, Black-winged Stilts, Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, Eastern Black-tailed Godwits (split from Black-tailed), Spotted Redshanks, Marsh and Wood Sandpipers and Oriental Pratincoles, five Grey-headed Lapwings, ten Oriental Plovers, Greater Painted- snipe, Temminck’s and Long-toed Stints, a Ruff, Freckle- (or Spot-) breasted Woodpeckers, Asian Pied and Chestnut-tailed Starlings, Plain-backed Sparrow, and Red-throated Pipit. Early the following morning we headed north-eastwards towards the ibis haven of Tmatboey in remote Preah Vihear province. We stopped to eat breakfast and do some birding in the dry forests along the roadside. The much wanted White-rumped Falcon appeared on cue (a male), and we also enjoyed great views of a pair of tiny Collared Falconets. This really was a brilliant area in which to introduce ourselves to the dry deciduous forest avifauna. Chinese Francolins called out of site, raptors included both Jerdon’s and Black Bazas and Rufous-winged Buzzard, Blossom-headed Parakeets perched nicely for us, there was Eurasian Hoopoe, both Large and Common Woodshrikes, Large Cuckooshrike and White-browed Fantails at their nests, Small 6 BirdQuest Tour Report Cambodia & Laos www.birdquest-tours.com Minivet, and singing Burmese (or Neglected) Nuthatch. We reached our lodgings set amid the open woodlands of Tmatboey in time for lunch, and began our exploration of the area in the afternoon. A huge Giant Ibis heads for its perch in a dead tree (Craig Robson) The next two-and-a-half days were spent thoroughly exploring the Tmatboey area. Obviously, our initial efforts focused on getting good views of the two endangered ibis species, the amazing Giant and striking White-shouldered, and we ended up with multiple perched and flight views of both (three of the former and Incredible views of Yellow-legged Buttonquail (Craig Robson) eight to ten of the latter). Much of our birding was done in the fairly open dry woodlands, which have a grassy understorey and are interspersed with small areas of rice-paddy.
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