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LDG9H<;B?9?JO97HJ;H E=DID &&+ delicious. delicious. &&, global kitchen. global kitchen. Lyon, as its residents say, is not Paris. Like the capital, it offers art, culture and great food, but unlike Paris, Lyon adopts a slow, friendly pace. This, they say, is the real France, where lunch takes three hours and strangers are greeted warmly. Uniquely, rather than demolishing buildings to make way for new ones, the Lyonnais have always chosen to expand outwards, creating a cascade of architecture down the hill and across the river. The oldest point is the Montée de Fourvière, the hill to the city’s west. Once the capital of Roman Gaul, it still has its Today, Lyon is only two hours from Paris amphitheatre, while later residents added on the high-speed TGV train. The silk is the Basilique Notre-Dame de Fourvière. At mostly gone, although a few workshops the foot is Vieux Lyon, a UNESCO heritage still produce light-catching, intricate work king of cuisine area. Largely built with Italian money, it for the luxury trade. Instead, Lyon has For anyone interested in food history, used to be one of Europe’s banking centres, pharmaceuticals, biotech and software as a visit to a Paul Bocuse establishment is and boasts street after cobble-stoned street well as engaging museums, seductive a must. Now in his 80s, Paul is a titan of of well-preserved Renaissance buildings. fashions and a dynamic arts scene. the 20th century. The belief that the best Then came the silk trade, followed by the When it comes to food, Lyon is taste comes from the best produce seems Lumière brothers and the invention of acknowledged by even the Parisians as obvious today, but it started with him. As AndcÉh]Zg^iV\Z"a^hiZYdaY cinema. In WWII, during the time of Nazi France’s capital, boasting more than 2000 France recovered from wartime austerity, idlc#Deedh^iZ!XadX`l^hZ ‘Butcher of Lyon’ Klaus Barbie, the same restaurants – many sprinkled with Michelin it luxuriated in creamy, fatty foods. Bocuse [gdbideaZ[i/Andc]VhV silk weaver’s alleyways became highways stars. The gastronomic community is tight- believed the same experience could be adc\]^hidgnd[h^a`igVYZ0 i]Z7Vgi]daY^;djciV^cVii]Z of the Resistance. knit, having trained, fought and married achieved from simpler dishes with better EaVXZYZhIZggZVjm0X]^X`Zc Vieux Lyon continues on to the Presqu’île one another for generations, which makes ingredients, launching the Nouvelle a^kZgÓVc^cidbVidhVjXZ business and shopping district, a three- tracing the city’s culinary history like Cuisine movement. Today, the signature Vi8V[YZh;YgVi^dch0 mile-long peninsula between the Rhône researching a family tree. If you understand dishes served at his three-star restaurant i]Z8V[^hVigVY^i^dcVa and the Saône rivers. the food, you understand Lyon. L’Auberge de Pont de Collonges AndccV^hZWdjX]dc# &&- delicious. global kitchen. global kitchen. 8adX`l^hZ[gdbWZadlaZ[i/8]ZoEVja^h Vcdi]ZglZaa"gZ\VgYZYWdjX]dc0Xdadjg[ja bVXVgddchViE^\cda0hXVaadehVcYdnhiZgh ViC^XdaVhAZ7ZX07gVhhZg^Z Ages, the modern bouchon evolved with the silk trade, whose workers needed emphasise the fsh’s own favour; while cheap, calorie-rich food. They turned to Chinese cabbage adds piquancy to quail sausages and offal, disguising the rough melting off the bone. Set in an austere ingredients with clever preparation. ex-Jesuit refectory and offering superb Although more than 200 restaurants in service, this restaurant is a rising star. Lyon now call themselves bouchons, Nicolas Le Bec (14 Rue Grolée, +334 78 fewer than 20 are members of the offcial 42 15 00) is the eponymous restaurant of Association de Défense des Bouchons a quietly spoken local celebrity chef. Lyonnais. Its members agree to serve a Nicolas combines old-school skill with specifc range of classic dishes and buy modern style, creating dishes such as their ingredients in fresh, which is why spit-roasted lamb with grilled capsicum you won’t fnd a freezer in their kitchens. sauce and a salad that comes unexpectedly Before you enter one, check they have the (40 Rue de la Plage, Collonges au Mont rolled in rice paper. ‘Authentique Bouchons Lyonnais’ plaque d’Or, +334 72 42 90 90) may seem old- Standing between heavier traditionalist displayed near the door – despite the fashioned by contemporary standards, cuisine and the experimentalists’ fusion seemingly authentic interiors of pink but nevertheless represent a decisive If you prefer less heavy food, visit the fne dining food, Anthony Bonnet’s outstanding fare walls, check tablecloths and rustic historical break from what came before. Bocuse brasseries, designed to showcase One of France’s most famous restaurants, at Les Loges (2-8 Rue du Boeuf, +334 72 furniture, many so-called ‘bouchons’ are One standout dish is the pastry-capped specifc aspects of French cuisine. Le Nord La Mère Brazier (12 Rue Royale, +334 78 23 77 44 44) bridges old and new. The actually tourist traps. black truffe soup, frst created for a (18 Rue Neuve, +334 72 10 69 69), with its 17 20) came under the ownership of chef restaurant is housed within the Cour des While the heritage-listed Vieux Lyon presidential dinner in 1975, which copper pans and clockwork waiters, offers Matthieu Viannay in 2008. Founded in 1921 Loges hotel (see Where to Stay), with a area has some genuine ones, the majority manages to be aromatic and savoury, Lyonnais food with a light touch – the by one of the famous Mères Lyonnaises menu focusing on traditional ingredients of good bouchons are found on the without being overwhelmed by truffe. grilled fllet of cod on mashed potatoes is (female cooks), the restaurant was a popular used sparingly – think tender frog legs Presqu’île. Put aside several hours for Another to try is the red mullet with the simplicity itself. Le Sud (11 Place Antonin- institution that closed in 2004, so Viannay poached in a herb stock or delicate breast lunch, as the owners – many of whom potato baked into fsh scales. Paul himself Ponçot, +334 72 77 80 00) concentrates on has had to tread a fne line between of pigeon with truffes. are women – will be offended if you rush is always on hand, so if your French is the Mediterranean; L’Est (14 Place Jules retaining tradition and carving his own them. The meal begins with a Kir Royale- good enough, this is your chance to ask Ferry, +334 37 24 25 26) serves international path. The decor alone is a triumph, with an Fabien Blanc, chef at La Rémanence best bouchons like aperitif, with cassis (blackcurrant) questions of a great master. The restaurant cuisine; l’Ouest (1 Quai du Commerce, elegant and understated nod to the 1920s. (31 Rue du Bât d’Argent, +334 72 00 08 08) If the Michelin-starred restaurants are the liqueur added to local wine, followed is located outside the city centre, so before +334 37 64 64 64) gives French food an The food is of equal quality, from the nettle plays with favours like an artist with glamorous face of Lyon’s gastronomic perhaps by a lentil salad and slices of you visit, check with the tourism offce international twist; while Argenson (+334 soup starter to the truffed Bresse chicken colours. The dorade (sea bass) might come wealth, the city’s bouchons (pronounced Lyonnaise sausage, plus a bowl of pork about transport – taking a taxi from the 72 73 72 73, 40 Allée Pierre de Coubertin) with mashed potatoes and oysters. It’s no in a bouillon of eucalyptus, but the ‘boo-shons’) are its heart. Although these crackling. Wine is served in a pot, a thick- Presqu’île costs about $80 each way! dishes up home-style cooking. surprise that it has two Michelin stars. menthol notes just add a little heat and traditional inns date back to the Middle bottomed 460ml glass bottle. delicious. &'& global kitchen. wine, costs less than $40 and might include something like a salmon and spinach starter, with three pieces of grilled fsh for the main, followed by a trio of desserts. Bookings are a must. Brasserie Georges (30 Cours de Verdun, +334 72 56 54 56), which has played host to everyone from Edith Piaf to Jacques Chirac, is a fast-moving, classic French brasserie in a spectacular Art Deco setting. A local favourite is the seafood platter, with lobster, prawns, oysters and mussels all piled over ice. 8]ZZhZh[dghVaZViAZh=VaaZhYZAndc sweet things EVja7dXjhZ#7Zadl/ &'' delicious. global kitchen. Petrossian. Then there’s the charcuterie of matriarch Colette Sibilla, who can be found at the market every day, despite her advancing age. She’s renowned for her ‘Jesus’ sausages, so called because they resemble a sleeping infant, and her Rosette de Lyon, a classic dried sausage. Try a plate of the dozen of so oyster varieties on offer at Chez Léon, or browse the poultry stalls selling Bresse chickens with heads and feet intact, to guarantee authenticity. Other stall holders offer tiny meals in a glass known as verrine cooking. This trend sweeping Lyon involves placing three different layers, each with a different texture, into a single glass. Make one yourself with a lesson from Philippe Lechat at Toqués des Halles (toquesdeshalles.com). Catch up on your reading at Badiane If you haven’t kicked the nicotine habit, (1 Place Bellecour, +334 72 41 18 00). It offers then visit Café 203 (9 Rue du Garet, +334 78 a wide range of cookbooks, including 28 6665), where management is so militant many in English, along with chefs’ outfts 6GZcV^hhVcXZidlZgVcYheZXiVXjaVg ^ciZg^dg g^\]i Vi8djgYZhAd\Zh# about smokers’ rights, they prefer to pay for children. At the back is the kitchen 7Zadl/8daa\Z=iZa fnes rather than conform to the non- where chefs come to give courses; they smoking regulations. For a more upmarket run for one-and-a-half hours and cost cocktail or glass of wine, visit the bar at from $15 to $80. No French is no obstacle. Le Passage restaurant (8 Rue de Plâtre, +334 78 28 11 16), and take the weight off in where to stay their comfortable leather chairs. A good, basic place to stay is the Elysée Wine lovers take note that Lyon is Hotel (92 Rue Président Edouard Herriot, within a short distance of both the Rhône +334 78 42 03 15, from $135 per double), Valley and the Beaujolais wine regions. where the rooms are small, but clean and But if you’ve no time for a tour, try Antic inexpensive. Within walking distance of Wine instead (18 Rue du Boeuf, +334 78 Lyon’s major sights is the Grand Hôtel 37 08 96). Visiting the box-flled cellar is des Terreaux (16 Rue Lanterne, +334 78 27 like dropping in on an episode of Seinfeld, 04 10, from $215 per double), more down- thanks to garrulous owner Georges Dos to-earth than its name suggests but with a Santos, who also owns the wine bar wonderful swimming pool enclosed in Georges Five (32 Rue du Boeuf, + 33 472 historic walls. Or try the quirky Collège 40 23 30). Georges speaks excellent English Hôtel (5 Place Saint-Paul, +334 72 10 05 (rare in Lyon), has fond memories of 05, from $210), inspired by the school Australia, and always has a bottle of room. You take breakfast in the ‘study something special open for tastings. hall’ and can stay in a bright white ‘undergraduate’ or more lavish ‘postgrad’ where to shop room. For something extraordinary, it has Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse (102 Cours to be the Cour des Loges (2-8 Rue du Lafayette, +334 78 60 32 82) looks like an Boeuf, +334 72 77 44 44, from $535 per where to drink unprepossessing structure of glass and double). Consisting of four Renaissance For a sedate cup of coffee, or a glass of concrete from the outside, but inside it’s a houses, each room is different; you might something stronger, locals and tourists foodie’s treasure trove, from the wheels of fnd yourself staying in one that resembles crowd into Grand Café des Negociants cheeses piled high at Mère Richard and a hunting lodge, or in a tower. d. (Place Francisque Régaud, +334 78 42 50 Alain Martinet, to the chocolates and salt Thanks to Lyon Tourism and Cour des Loges for 05), in the heart of the peninsula. macarons at Sève and the caviar at assistance. For more on Lyon, visit: lyon.fr. &') delicious.