Sister Sessions Inside Tofino's Trailblazing Surf School the Scoop 5 Ice Cream Shops You'll Want To

COASTAL BC TRAVEL & LIFESTYLE | 2019

SISTER SESSIONS INSIDE TOFINO’S TRAILBLAZING SURF SCHOOL THE SCOOP 5 ICE CREAM SHOPS YOU’LL WANT TO TRY

Be inspired CREATE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 1 EAT, STAY & GETAWAY

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2 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 3 Yup... we’ve nailed it!

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4 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast Oceanfront Resort Sooke Discover the best of BC

Explore Vancouver Island and Northern British Columbia with BC Ferries, and discover easy access to Prestige locations in Sooke, Prince Rupert, Smithers, and Prince George.

Use the promo code “FERRY” when booking a stay on our website and save $25 a night off our Best Available Rate!*

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onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 5 CONTENTS

SWEET SUMMER TREATS Five craft ice cream shops you won’t want to miss.

10 GREAT STAYS Immerse yourself in nature at these distinctive BC retreats. 12 WEEKEND ESCAPE Tips for creating the perfect Gabriola Island getaway. 22 CHASING THE LIGHT From fiery sunsets and starry nights to illuminated waters, these BC spots offer up the best all-natural light shows. 26 FOR THE LOVE OF SALMON Salmon play a vital role in the health and longevity of our environment, our economy, and our cultural identity. 31 CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE Find the Southern Gulf Island that’s right for you.

ON THE COVER M Gurr Lake Trail Lookout, SURF SISTER near Bella Coola. Krissy Montgomery has helped turn Tofino Photo by Benjamin Westerik. into the female18 surf capital of the world.

8 51 56 58 CREATIVE INSPIRATION AT THE HELM UNDER THE SEA MEET THE FLEET WHERE WE SAIL Meet three BC-based BC Ferries CEO Mark The Nicholas Sonntag Learn to recognize A comprehensive map artists whose work Collins is looking Marine Education the vessels in the of BC Ferries routes enhances your sailing forward to what’s Centre inspires visitors BC Ferries fleet. and terminals. experience. on the horizon. to protect marine life.

6 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast BC Ferries Janet Carson Vice President, Marketing & Customer Experience Kevin Boyle Corporate Marketing Manager Jessica van Delden Marketing Coordinator Maria Japson INN & TEA HOUSE Social Media Specialist Suite 500, 1321 Blanshard Street, Victoria, BC, V8W 0B7 bcferries.com In the centre of Victoria Enjoy an authentic Victorian overlooking the Inner Harbour B&B experience. Overlooking the Inner Harbour on an acre  113 Guestrooms of landscaped gardens, ponds (kitchens on request) and cobblestone pathways  Beautiful gardens  RedPoint Media Group Inc. Nine Victorian-style guestrooms  Small corporate meeting room Joyce Byrne  Complimentary gourmet Group Publisher  Hunters Breakfast Restaurant guest breakfast Pritha Kalar  Pet friendly rooms available  Publisher The Pendray Tea House  featuring afternoon tea Jill Foran Courtesy downtown shuttle Editorial Director  10% discount on bike rentals David Willicome at The Pedaler! Art Director

Rebecca Middlebrook 330 Quebec Street, Victoria, BC 309 Belleville Street, Victoria, BC Graphic Designer 1-800-663-7557 250-388-3892 Natalie Morrison huntingdonmanor.com pendrayinnandteahouse.com Client Relations Manager Mike Matovich Production Manager Erin Starchuk Print Traffic Coordinator Rob Kelly Audience Development/ Reader Services Manager

ADVERTISING INQUIRIES: 403-240-9055 [email protected] Melissa Brown and Anita McGillis Account Executives

Printed in Canada by Transcontinental LGM.

Statements, opinions and viewpoints expressed herein do not necessarily represent the views of the publisher. Copyright 2019 by RedPoint Media Group Inc. No part of this publication may be reproduced without the express written consent of the publisher. PM 40030911

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Ice cream, photo by iStock/ Getty Images Plus; Krissy Montgomery, photo by Bryanna Bradley; Richard Hunt, photo by Kim Jay Photography [email protected]

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 7 | AT THE HELM |

deliver,” says Collins. “Taking the ferry is a unique part of any journey. As more and more people seek authentic travel experiences, the role the ferry plays in connecting people and communities is increasingly important.” Time spent on board one of BC Ferries’ ships can set the tone for a person’s entire trip, which is why Collins says it needs to be seamless and memorable, from the time of booking through check-in, to sailing and arrival. “For some people, boarding a ferry at Tsawwassen terminal is the beginning of a weekend getaway to Vancouver Island and a chance to leave big city life behind, relax and recharge,” he says. “Onboard, we help our customers begin to unwind. On the flip side, taking a ferry to the Lower Mainland can be an opportunity to become more energized by the buzz of a big city to explore.” Amenities at terminals and on vessels cater to both visitors and locals and feature some of the best of the West Coast. There’s a focus on celebrating BC, its artists and WORLD-CLASS SERVICE producers, and making the voyage as comfortable and enjoyable BC Ferries’ CEO Mark Collins knows ferry service is more than as possible. just a way to get to and from a destination; it’s an authentic, “We love to introduce tourists West Coast travel experience in British Columbia. to West Coast life. It’s just part of what we do,” Collins notes. “For locals, the ferry is a vital trade and transportation link between big n a sunny day, the electric ferries, a dynamic website advantage of the new systems, cities and coastal towns. In all cases, outer deck of the and more fare choices for travellers. which will feature fare choices on providing connectivity is our role.” Spirit of British “We are excited about what the major routes, especially at less BC Ferries is one of the largest O Columbia is packed we’re rolling out and our future busy sailing times. Safe passage ferry operators in the world, with tourists, snapping selfies plans for ferry service in coastal on environmentally-leading ferries providing year-round vehicle and and taking photos of the pristine British Columbia,” says Collins. is an ongoing commitment the passenger service on 25 routes BC coastline. It’s an impressive New user-friendly online company has made to customers to 47 terminals spread over 1,600 view for both visitors and regular booking systems are being and communities. kilometres of coastline. Last year, travellers. The view from the helm developed to offer peace-of-mind to “Our customers expect world- more than 22 million passengers of BC Ferries is also busy. President out-of-town guests as they embark class service from BC Ferries, included BC Ferries in their and CEO Mark Collins is focused on on a unique BC adventure. Regular whether they’re commuting or travel plans. what’s on the horizon: new hybrid- travellers will also be able to take vacationing, and we strive to “When customers sail on our ferries, we have the opportunity to “Taking the ferry is a unique part of any journey. As more and more people seek introduce coastal British Columbia to visitors from around the world. For authentic travel experiences, the role the ferry plays in connecting people and our local customers, the ferry ride communities is increasingly important.” — Mark Collins welcomes them home,” adds Collins.

“It doesn’t get better than that.” ■ Photo courtesy BC Ferries

8 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast DISCOVER BRITISH COLUMBIA’S WILD AND BEAUTIFUL NORTHWEST COAST

A vibrant port town where nature, history, and personalities are larger than life. Prince Rupert offers visitors a unique combination of experiences: breathtaking encounters with wildlife and legendary saltwater fishing; attractions that bring the Coast’s ancient, Indigenous culture and pioneer heritage alive; and the urban pleasures of good restaurants, unique shops and colourful neighbourhoods.

Easily accessible on BC Ferries’ Inside Passage route, Alaska State Ferries or VIA Rail, and by air or road, Prince Rupert is your connection point to Alaska, Haida Gwaii, or your larger Northern BC adventure.

This year, we invite you visit us in Prince Rupert and discover our nature.

VisitPrinceRupert.com

Credit: Destination BC / Andrew Strain onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 9 | GREAT STAYS | BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

Ruby Lake Resort

mounted on wooden platforms and fitted with power and full beds, immersing guests in the wild without compromising comfort. And the resort’s La Trattoria Italiana Bodega Ridge restaurant offers fine-dining meals with a farm-to-table focus. explore the Sound’s secluded waters “Our business is designed to IMMERSED in style. Choose from comfortable work in harmony with nature,” hotel-style suites within the main Cogrossi says. rubylakeresort.com IN NATURE cedar lodge, or private chalets with jaw-dropping ocean views. here’s no shortage of wilderness hideaways on BC’s “It’s accessible wilderness,” says coast. From secluded lodges to fully equipped safari Chris Tait, director of leisure product T tents, these accommodation options offer unique ways and operations at Pacific Coastal to experience some of the coast’s most picturesque spots. Cruises & Tours. “You can look out your window and see whales swimming by as you have dinner.” BODEGA RIDGE beautiful Desolation Sound, on the homfraylodge.com GALIANO ISLAND northern end of the Sunshine Coast, As the first stop on the Southern Homfray Lodge is only accessible by RUBY LAKE Tofino Resort + Marina Gulf Islands ferry route from private boat — getting here is part RESORT Tsawwassen, Galiano is convenient of the allure and the experience. SUNSHINE COAST TOFINO RESORT + to get to, but it also feels To reach Homfray, BC Ferries When Aldo Cogrossi moved from MARINA delightfully remote. The individual passengers arriving to the Sunshine Italy to the Sunshine Coast 26 years TOFINO log cabins of Bodega Ridge and its Coast must make their way to Lund ago, he wanted to build a property The only full-service resort right sister property Bodega Cove are Harbour, then, via Pacific Coastal that showcased his love of nature. on the Tofino Inlet, this coastal perfect for those who want to feel Cruises & Tours, embark on a His Ruby Lake Resort is a haven for getaway has two renowned like they’re immersed in nature three-hour boat trip directly to the swimmers, mountain bikers, yogis restaurants (1909 Kitchen and — but still surrounded by luxury. lodge. Part of a three- or four-night and birdwatchers, all of whom stay The Hatch Waterfront Pub), fully All of the cabins boast spacious tour package, this experience gives in cottages or glamping-style safari decked-out guest suites, chic wall bedrooms, fully equipped kitchens, visitors the rare opportunity to tents. The latter are canvas tents wrap photography and extra-plush cozy wood stoves or fireplaces, beds. Plus, an on-site Adventure high-speed internet and spectacular Centre connects guests with whale- views of the smaller Gulf Islands watching, bear-watching, fishing “They’re rustic-looking and hot springs tours. cabins, but quite modern inside,” “The resort is just a short stroll says proprietor Jesse Keefer. from the heart of town,” says “[Everything here] is really private, general manager Daniel Vogel. “It but with an iconic Canadian feel.” offers guests the perfect base for bodegaridge.com exploring the wild west coast of Vancouver Island.” Homfray Lodge HOMFRAY LODGE tofinoresortandmarina.com ■ DESOLATION SOUND For some solitude amid pristine waters, consider this woodsy, all-inclusive wilderness retreat, | TRAVELLER TIP which accommodates 16 guests at

a time. Situated at Forest Point in For best value, book a bundled package including ferry and hotel. Visit bcferries.com/vacations. Clockwise from top left: Shayd Johnson; Laura Baptist; Leila Kwok; Pacific Coastal CruisesTours &

10 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast The Summer Series

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onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 11 GABRIOLA ISLAND

BY JOHN LEE

WEEKEND ESCAPE

A 25-MINUTE FERRY RIDE from Vancouver Island’s the hilly roads) and start exploring soon after you dock Nanaimo Harbour, Gabriola combines a laid-back at Descanso Bay. Need suggestions? Travel writer (and “island time” vibe with a surprisingly diverse array of perennial Gabriola visitor) John Lee shares his carefully activities. Bring your car (hardy cyclists can also tackle crafted itinerary for a weekend of island bliss.

4:30 PM TWIN BEACHES woodland walk; the trail’s final | FRIDAY | To see more of the island’s scenic stretch is steep, but the payoff is shorelines, continue driving a curving ribbon of sandy shore 3:15 PM WILD ROCKS its forest-fringed main road to overlooking Lock Bay. Upon disembarking from the ferry Gabriola Sands Provincial Park, at Descanso Bay, take your first where a narrow strip of grassy 7:30 PM SUNSET DINNER left from the dock and head for land separates two beaches. Enjoy Satisfy your hunger at Surf Lodge Malaspina Galleries. Gabriola has a the feel of the soft, white sand and Pub, which serves classic vibrant arts scene, but this “gallery” between your toes, or take a quick comfort dishes (try the fish and is actually a dramatic shoreline dip in the shallow waters. chips) in its log-lined dining rock formation created by centuries room. But its patio is the place to of ocean erosion. Curled like a 5:30 PM LEG-STRETCH be for gazing at sunsets over the sandstone wave, it’s a sight to see. A 12-minute drive away, you’ll find water. Nearby Orlebar Point offers Walk right through and keep your the tranquil Sandwell Provincial additional Instagram-worthy views eyes on the water for wildlife. Park. Embark on the 800-metre of the Entrance Island Lighthouse.

12 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast SUNDAY | |

10:00 AM COFFEE STOP Start the day with breakfast at Mad Rona’s Coffee Bar — the moniker is a play on the word madronas, which is a name for the island’s ubiquitous arbutus trees. This is where locals love to gather and chat over java and breakfast sandwiches. On balmy days, the café’s outdoor seating is highly sought-after.

11:30 AM APPLE MAGIC Centered on a gabled barn, Ravenskill Orchards & Gabbie’s Premium Cider is a perfect fruit-lovers pit stop. Hit the rustic tasting room for cider samples and be sure | SATURDAY | to try the crisp and citrusy Groovin’ Granny Smith — and buy some bottles for home. 10:00 AM ARTS & CRAFTS Dive into artisanal Gabriola at Agi 1:30 PM ARTSY FINALE Hall’s Growers and Makers Market Before your ferry journey back to Nanaimo, (May to October), where everything return to Gabriola’s creative side for a locally is locally handmade or homegrown. made souvenir or two. Pier Gallery Artists Then head to nearby Paprika Collective offers everything from jewellery Jewellery Studio & Gallery, where and textile creations to pottery and wooden owner Nina Turczyn often creates carvings. From there, head to Whalebone pieces behind the counter. (Around Studio (but call ahead first) to discover the island, look for yellow roadside Pam Tempelmayr’s richly dramatic nature- flags, which denote art studios based watercolours. ■ open to visitors.)

11:30 AM LOCAL TALES Pop into the tiny Gabriola Museum, complete with its own summertime Paradise Island Alpaca Farm to hang which relates engaging island outdoor ice-cream stand. out with a keen-eyed gaggle of stories from its ancient Coast Salish these inquisitive creatures — save beginnings to the hippy dippy 1:15 PM CREATIVE CURDS time for the horses and goats, too. 1970s — this was one of the places Book ahead for a Make Cheese with There’s also an on-site store selling to explore free-spirited lifestyles Paula workshop and you’ll soon be soft alpaca-wool accessories. back in the day. chatting away with your friendly host in her comfy home kitchen. 5:30 PM DINNERTIME 12:00 PM LUNCHTIME The taste, touch and feel-based Opt for an early dinner at Woodfire A five-minute walk away, The classes are a fun and accessible 101 Restaurant. There’s a tempting Kitchen answers hunger pangs with introduction to making your own array of gourmet pizzas here, but its hearty Kitchen Burger or one of feta, brie and more. the seasonal Seafood Grill is the Clockwise from left: Malaspina Galleries, many hot sandwiches (try the pork way to go, especially alongside a Growers and Makers Market, Paradise Island belly B.E.L.T). The bustling GABE 3:15 PM FARM STOP lip-smacking beer from Nanaimo’s Alpaca Farm, Pier Gallery Artists Collective Shop thrift store is also close by, Make a quick stop at family-friendly Longwood Brewery. and the Surf Lodge and Pub.

S | GETTING THERE WITH BC FERRIES |

Crossing time: 20-25 MINUTES Descanso Bay. There are over 12 sailings departing NANAIMO HARBOUR (Vancouver Island) - daily. If you’re travelling from the Lower Mainland, you GABRIOLA ISLAND (Descanso Bay) can travel from Tsawwassen to Duke Point or from Horseshoe Bay to Departure Bay; both Island arrival Walk, bike, or drive onto the Quinsam for a short, points will leave you a short 10-20 minute drive to 20-minute ferry ride from downtown Nanaimo to Nanaimo Harbour, the start of your weekend escape.

Clockwise from top left: Pamela Joe, McFarlane, iStock; courtesy Gabriola Agriculture Co-op; Yvonna Noyon; Dave Turrie; courtesy Surf Lodge and Pub FOR SAILING SCHEDULES AND RESERVATIONS VISIT bcferries.com

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 13 | ICE CREAM ESSENTIALS | BY JOANNE SASVARI

SWEET SUMMER TREATS Consider it happiness in a waffle cone. Wonderfully rich and surprisingly complex, craft ice cream is summer’s coolest trend here on British Columbia’s coast. Step off the ferry and savour it at these five tasty destinations.

14 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast Welcome Parlour Ice Cream in North Vancouver.

FOR AN OLD-TIMEY VIBE WITH A TWIST WELCOME PARLOUR ICE CREAM North Vancouver | Old meets new at Welcome Parlour. Named in honour of North Van’s very first ice cream shop (Est. 1909) and located in the historic Hodson Block, Welcome Parlour offers luxuriously old-fashioned ice cream with a contemporary spin. “We create in real small batches. It’s all natural, made by hand,” says proprietor Ian Widgery. He and culinary partner Eleanor Chow Waterfall offer shakes, ice cream sandwiches, classic sundaes and floats, including dairy-free and vegan options. For the indecisive, ice cream flights are also available. “Ice cream is a happiness product,” Widgery says. “It brings people together in all different ways.” welcomeparlour.com MUST-TRY: Apple pie ice cream — made with actual apple pie.

FOR FLAVOURS OF THE FOREST BLUE SPRUCE ICE CREAM FOR AN ITALIAN- FOR A TASTE OF FOR SURPRISING Courtenay | The first time Kirsten INSPIRED TREAT THE SEASON INGREDIENT COMBOS Wood and Jonathan Frazier made SALT SPRING GELATO SASSYMACK’S ICE CREAM COLD COMFORT spruce-tip ice cream and discovered Salt Spring Island | Classic ice cream Lund | Like summer, some of the Victoria | Over the last 10 years, its lovely, woodsy aftertaste, they might be the cool kid on the block, many flavours at SassyMack’s are Autumn Maxwell has churned out knew just what their next project but we still love the Italian-style fleeting. Since June 2016, owners more than 475 inventive flavours of would be. In summer 2018, they gelato made here. Since 2003, owner Jasmine Brown and Mackenzie handmade ice cream — everything opened an ice cream shop where Dan Dawson has been pleasing Adamson have used the Sunshine from raspberry-rose, to bay laurel they transform the endless bounty islanders with homemade gelato, Coast’s seasonal produce for their and birch, to avocado margarita. of the Comox Valley into decadent sorbetto and frozen cakes in both richly old-fashioned ice cream (includ- “I love food and flavours and treats. “We’re really close with all our classic (Belgian chocolate) and ing at least one vegan option). Think fragrance,” Maxwell says. She makes farmers,” Wood says. “And ice cream inventive (Easter Egg Hunt) flavours. buttermilk strawberry, fresh basil her ice cream from organic dairy just makes people really happy.” Find it at local markets, including and quirky flavours like caramel corn. and local eggs, and offers seven Look for unique flavours like rose Harlan's Fine Chocolates in Ganges. Find SassyMack’s at local festivals and flavours every day, including gluten- pistachio, rosemary candied walnut saltspringgelato.com markets and, in summertime, at the and dairy-free options. “We make or toasted coconut vegan ice cream. MUST-TRY: Fat-free, dairy-free stand next to Nancy’s Bakery. sure there is always something for bluespruceicecream.com strawberry mojito sorbetto. “It facebook.com/SassyMacksIceCream everyone.” coldcomfort.ca MUST-TRY: Spruce-tip — the flavour tastes like summer on Salt Spring,” MUST-TRY: Local blackberry ice MUST-TRY: Ice cream sandwiches that started it all. says Dawson. cream (available in August). made with homemade cookies. ■

| ONBOARD SOFT-SERVE DELIGHT

Did you know you can savour the taste of summer onboard many of our vessels? Visit the Coastal Café for a serve-yourself cup of Island Farms soft-serve ice cream — your choice of vanilla,

Clockwise from left: Danika Sea; Darren Lebouf; Autumn Maxwell; Jasmine Brown; Dan Dawson; bottom right image supplied by BC Ferries chocolate, or vanilla-chocolate twist. Don't forget to snap your #SoftServeSelfie.

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 15 16 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast Emissions from 633 cars Clear skies. Smooth sailing. A BC Ferries vessel crosses the Salish sea for most of the day and night, every day of the year. That takes a lot of fuel. Emissions Emissions from FortisBC supplies the liquefied natural gas (LNG) for from diesel natural gas three Salish Class ferries, helping reduce fuel costs and greenhouse gas (GHG) emissions every day. For each Salish Class ferry now using LNG, BC Ferries has reduced CO2 emissions by about 3,000 metric tonnes per year. That’s the same as removing 633 passenger vehicles from our roads annually.* * Assumes an average annual consumption of 3,800 gigajoules (GJ) for an LNG truck with a carbon intensity of 63,260 gCO2e/GJ. This equates to approximately 240 tonnes That’s energy at work. of greenhouse gas emissions compared with 355 tonnes from a diesel equivalent (93,550 gCO2e/GJ). fortisbc.com/lng

FortisBC Energy Inc. uses the FortisBC name and logo under license from Fortis Inc (19-105.2 02/2019)

19-105.2_BC_Ferries_Onboard_Ad_PP.indd 1 3/6/2019 3:34:11 PM Best Kept Secrets of Victoria

Free Parking for Patrons

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 17 TOFINO

BY LISA KADANE PHOTOGRAPHY BY BRYANNA BRADLEY

THE ULTIMATE SURF SISTER Based in Tofino, Krissy Montgomery is one of the women behind Canada’s largest all-female-instructor surf school.

urfing in Tofino can feel truly magical, no wetsuits and booties, lending the illusion that you matter your skill level. Gentle waves roll could catch waves all day. And from the water, evenly and consistently to the sandy shore, the green-robed mountains that curve around the splashing beginners with a salty good luck quiet shores are ringed in mist to form a wispy Spotion. The mighty Pacific feels warm thanks to crown — and a stunning backdrop.

18 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast Krissy Montgomery in action. 3 BEACHES TO SURF

COX BAY BEACH As one of Tofino’s main surfing destinations, this spot has the most consis- tent surf year-round. The crescent-shaped beach provides wind protection and plenty of wave vari- ation. This is also where Tofino’s major surf competitions, including Queen of the Peak, are held.

Indeed, it was Tofino’s low-key “I did everything wrong. I had the reputation as a surfer’s paradise — not wrong equipment, I didn’t know my to mention its other natural allures — ocean safety,” Montgomery recalls. that first inspired Krissy Montgomery “And I was also too shy to ask for help. to drive across Vancouver Island, from I was too intimidated.” Nanaimo, with a car full of girlfriends Little did Montgomery know the when she turned 19. A sports lover solution to her problem was about to and athlete, Montgomery had started launch in Tofino. A year later, in 1999, CHESTERMAN dabbling in surfing in high school and Jenny Stewart opened Surf Sister Surf BEACH wanted to ride the waves for real. School — an all-female-instructor surf Considered the best beach “We came out to the West Coast school targeting women who wanted to for beginners, Chester- in 1998 with the Blue Crush dream,” learn the sport. man is expansive and very Montgomery says with a laugh, “Jenny saw how there were people scenic. The south portion referencing the cult movie about like myself who wanted to come up is the preferred spot for a hard-core surfer girl in Hawaii. and surf but who didn’t have any re- many surf schools, while But in Montgomery’s early days of sources,” says Montgomery. “She also North Chesterman packs learning the sport, surfing wasn’t quite saw there was a lack of women in the more punch, with bigger as easy as she thought it would be. water and she wanted to help increase swells that local surfers those numbers.” tend to love. Four years later, Montgomery A lesson with Surf Sister. joined the Surf Sister team as the manager and an instructor, and then went on to purchase the company in 2009. Teaching came naturally to Montgomery, and she loves sharing her passion with newbies of any gender, watching as surfing empowers, thrills and then humbles them (after a wipe- LONG BEACH out) in the space of five seconds. She Situated within Pacific also loves Surf Sister’s philosophy. The Rim National Park Re- team believes that adopting a support- serve, about 10 minutes ive, encouraging approach to surfing south of Tofino, this helps students focus on learning with- 16-kilometre stretch is out the pressure to perform. What’s famous for its swells and important to Surf Sister is that you its summer surfing vibe.

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 19 Tofino's latest group of up-and-coming female surfers, all under 16 years old.

have fun — whether or not you stand up on your board. “This is the female surf capital of the world, and Surf Sister But most first-timers do get ver- definitely played a part in that.” — Krissy Montgomery tical because Tofino has some of the best learning beaches in the world. The area's gradual sand bottom creates beaches in Tofino are remarkable for the respect they deserve and are waves that are gentle and rolling, with the number of women suited up in given equal opportunity in the surf lots of whitewash that’s perfect for neoprene waiting for the next set. world,” says Montgomery. beginners. Plus, no rocks or dangers “That’s mellowed out the lineup All of these changes have in- lurk beneath the water, making it and made it a lot more approach- spired even younger women to take very safe. Beyond the beach, Tofino able,” says Montgomery, who also to the waves. In Tofino alone, the delivers with natural beauty, activities co-founded Queen of the Peak, surfing community has only grown such as hiking and aquatic adventures the first female surf contest in the stronger — Montgomery has noticed for nature-minded travellers, and a area. Competitions like it have a posse of about eight promising burgeoning dining scene. helped bring gender equality to the female surfers who are under the age “Of all the places I’ve travelled sport. This year, for the first time in of 16. before, it would be very hard to top the World Surfing League (WSL), “The excitement in the younger Tofino,” says Montgomery. women’s prize money is equivalent generation is just so cool. These kids In the past 20 years, Surf Sister to men’s. are just charging, getting out there has grown from a single woman op- “There’s a global awakening in when it’s gnarly,” says Montgomery. erating out of her truck, to a summer our sport. Finally, women are getting “They’re my heroes now.” ■ team of almost 30 women teaching multiple classes from a downtown office and a satellite surf shack S | GETTING THERE WITH BC FERRIES | located on the grounds of the Pacific Sands Beach Resort at Cox Bay. That growth has translated to a lot more women surfing in Tofino. Crossing time: 1 HOUR, 40 MINUTES “This is the female surf capital of HORSESHOE BAY (Vancouver) - the world and Surf Sister definitely NANAIMO (Departure Bay) played a part in that. We feel really proud,” says Montgomery, who turns After disembarking the ferry in Nanaimo, Tofino 40 this year. is a three-hour drive away. The drive is on one of The company has certainly helped the most spectacular roads in the world. It passes through old growth forests, the township of Port Alberni, the majestic Sutton Pass, and finally the Pacific Rim National Park Reserve, where put Tofino on the map as a legitimate you’ll start to see ocean views through the trees — glimpses of the adventure ahead. — and friendly — surfing destination. In a sport that can sometimes feel like FOR SAILING SCHEDULES AND RESERVATIONS VISIT bcferries.com you’re drowning in a sea of men, the

20 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast April Point Resort & Spa, Quadra Island BC 1•888•999•2799 [email protected]

Abercorn Inn Hotel, Vancouver BC April Point Resort & Spa, Quadra Island BC Painter’s Lodge, Campbell River BC Quarterdeck Resort & Marina, Port Hardy BC

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 21 | COASTAL VIEWS | BY JENNIFER DOROZIO

CHASING THE LIGHT Throughout BC, there are bright sparks of magic to be found in both the sky and the sea. Here is just a sampling of the spectacular, all-natural light shows to discover ...

2 22 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast 1 There are two designated dark sky parks in BC: McDonald Park near Abbotsford and Cattle Point Dark Sky Urban Star Park in Oak Bay (close to downtown Victoria). Shielded from light pollution, both are perfect destinations for marvelling at the wonders of the universe all year long. But opportunities for star- gazing in coastal BC extend far beyond designated dark skies. For a local favourite, try West Vancouver’s seaside Lighthouse Park on a clear summer night.

2 On the western edge of Vancouver Island, the Wild Pacific Trail’s Lighthouse Loop in Ucluelet brings unforgettable views to eager sunset-seekers. During any season, weather permitting, you can watch the bright gold and pink hues of a burning sunset over the water from the benches and lookouts along the trail.

3 The fluorescent green and pink ribbons of the northern lights have been known to dominate the sky above Alta Lake, in Whistler, when the timing is right. Whistler’s 1 northwestern location makes it an ideal spot in BC to catch this miraculous display of colliding atmospheric particles. ■

#SHARETHECOAST

Share your favourite BC spots for gazing at sunsets and marvelling at starry skies. Tag your photos with #ShareTheCoast for a chance to be featured in BC Ferries' album of

1, iStock;1, 2, Eric Drumm Photography; 3, David McColm the month.

3 onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 23 ADVERTISING FEATURE ADVERTISING FEATURE

If you happen to be visiting during the summer season, you can enjoy Join the Adventure! a host of special events including TRIP ITINERARY: ASK ABOUT THE sidney by the sea the Sidney Street Market (Thursday SIDNEY ADVANTAGE! nights June to September), #2 Summer Sounds outdoor concerts (Sunday’s July & August) and the Torque Masters Car Show #5 Extravaganza (August) just to name We also offer a few. Be sure to catch a show at Kayak & SUP Rentals #6 Mary Winspear Centre, the art & culture hub of Sidney. FREE PICK UP AT BC FERRIES! Sidney is known as Canada’s only sidneywhalewatching.com Only a short drive from Downtown Victoria, BC, Sidney is the gateway to your Vancouver Island Booktown so be sure to peruse the 1-888-656-7599 5 independent bookstores during adventure. Below is a suggested itinerary for the perfect day in this vibrant seaside town. your visit. If you are bringing little ones, the Shaw Centre for the Number of Salish Sea (7) the BC Aviation days to To fully experience all that Sidney and the spend here surrounding region has to offer you need Museum (8) and the Sidney Museum offer special SIDNEY to spend at least two days to soak it all in. #7 hands-on experiences Rich in history and surrounded in natural not to be missed! beauty, Sidney is the gateway to #1 #8 Vancouver Island. Complete with a vibrant boutique-shopping district (1) and many quaint dining options you won’t know where to start. To complete the Sidney experience, Victoria Distillers (2), the only waterfront distillery on Vancouver Island offers daily tours VICTORIA and tastings. Complete with a cozy lounge and outdoor patio with sweeping views of Mount Baker and the Salish Sea, the distillery Sidney Destination & Event Information #3 will impress even the most discerning libation connoisseur. PLAN YOUR TRIP sidneyBIA.ca

The waterfront in Sidney (3) offers many experiences including BC Ferries The Cedarwood Inn & Suites bcferries.com thecedarwood.ca the historic walking tour and seaside sculpture walk (4). Be sure to visit with local fisherman as Washington State Ferries The Sidney Pier Hotel & Spa you stroll down the iconic Sidney wsdot.wa.gov/ferries/ sidneypier.com fishing pier (5). You can also hop on COHO Ferry Sidney Waterfront Inn & Suites a whale watching or guided kayak cohoferry.com sidneywaterfrontinn.com tour right from the waterfront. If you Van Isle Marina Beacon Inn want to visit the nearby wine region vanislemarina.com thebeaconinn.com and cidery (6), you can do so on your Port Sidney Marina Victoria Airport Travelodge way to the world-famous Butchart portsidney.com travelodge.ca Gardens, only a 15-minute drive #4 Bike Rentals: Here by Cycle Best Western Emerald Isle from Sidney. herebycycle.ca bwemeraldisle.com

24 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast ADVERTISING FEATURE ADVERTISING FEATURE

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 25 FISHING TALES

BY JENNIFER BAIN

“Salmon are a key link in our food chain, not just with humans but with bears and wolves and birds — even the health of the forest is driven by salmon. They also play an important role in the BC economy, not just with commercial fisheries but with Indigenous and recreational fisheries, with communities, with tourism, and with all the businesses that support the commercial salmon fishery.” — Dane Chauvel, BC Salmon Marketing Council

FOR THE LOVE OF SALMON FOR THE LOVE OF SALMON Angling for the perfect catch in the Strait of Georgia.

IT’S THE MOMENT MOST ANGLERS LIVE FOR and sets the hook before handing it to me. He stands — those first few euphoric seconds when a fish, hope- by with a net as I quickly reel in about 150 feet of line fully a chinook, tugs on the line deep in the ocean, without giving the fish slack to wiggle off. I know it’s causing the rod to bend and twitch and jerk. not a fish until someone sees it, lest it turn out to be Conversations on the boat come to a stop, and seaweed or tangled lines. I know it doesn’t count as a I jump to my feet, ready for action. My travelling catch until it’s in the boat. companions watch eagerly. The pounding rain and fierce winds that can- Blake Phillips, our Unreel Fishing Charters celled another fishing trip from our basecamp in captain, pulls the rod out of the electric downrigger Nanaimo the night before have given way to June Alamy Stock Photo

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 27 On the water with Unreel sunshine. One major perk of fishing The government protects wild coho Fishing Charters. here, between Vancouver Island and in this area to help their depleted num- mainland British Columbia, is that bers rebound. Only hatchery coho can be it’s just a 20-minute journey from kept, and they have obvious marks where Nanaimo’s public boat launch to the their adipose fins have been clipped. An salmon fishing grounds, so we didn’t interesting twist, we learn, is that the waste much precious time on travel. hatcheries don’t have the resources to Today it’s so calm we could be fooled clip all the salmon they release, so what into thinking we’re on a lake instead of looks like a wild fish might actually be the ocean. And the blissful lack of fog from the hatchery. Still, we must release means we can marvel freely at the coast- any coho with intact fins and do our part al mountains. to protect them. We are here for chinook, the largest As we float serenely on the soft of the Pacific salmon species and the waves, we fish with just two rods — ON THE ROLE OF one nicknamed “king” or, when it tops since any more are bound to get tangled THE GUIDES… 30 pounds, “tyee.” Coho would also be in these depths — using barbless hooks, a great catch — it is feisty and delicious. flashers and small spoons that mimic “Fishing guides can play a big role in educating This isn’t a sockeye spot, and pink and wounded bait fish. We politely take people [who] come here and visit. When we chum don’t excite most anglers. turns catching four more salmon. They catch a fish over 25 pounds, I try to educate And we want to feel like most are all wild coho and go straight back people to release a fish of that size, if it’s healthy. anglers. We’ve all bought Tidal Waters into the sea. We tell clients and guests to release big fish so Sport Fishing Licences (purchased “They’re not monster fish,” the ami- they can hopefully make it back to the rivers and online from Fisheries and Oceans able Captain Phillips concedes, “but it’s spawn and keep those genes going for larger Canada), and paid $6 extra for Salmon nice to see some action.” types of stocks.” Conservation Stamps that help the Pa- Speaking of monsters, I try fishing — Blake Phillips, captain at Unreel Fishing Charters cific Salmon Foundation conserve and for lingcod, but the unattractive crea- rebuild salmon populations, and let us ture that’s said to taste like “poor man’s keep a select few fish. lobster” isn’t biting. ON FISHING HUMANELY… I soon land my first and only salmon Our fishing expedition is over “Pacific salmon is part of BC’s original culture — of the day. It’s young, but we cheer too soon, but we are grateful for the it’s part of our entire history. Respect the [fish]. anyway. many happy hours on the ocean. The If you have a daily [catch] limit, where you might “That’s alright — that’s a fish,” sunshine is intense. The conversations be allowed to take one or two fish a day, then Captain Phillips says soothingly, paus- are spirited. The area isn’t packed with try to land the fish as quickly as possible, bring it ing before breaking the news that it’s a anglers so we feel like we’ve got the spot in, minimize the handling and remove the hook wild coho and must be released. to ourselves. within the water. [If you can’t keep your catch], remove the hook and return the fish to the salt water as fast as possible.” — Dr. Brian Riddell, CEO Pacific Salmon Foundation

| 5 PACIFIC SALMON

CHINOOK COHO SOCKEYE PINK CHUM Nicknames: Spring, king, tyee Nickname: Silver Nickname: Red Nicknames: Humpback/humpie Nickname: Dog Distinguishing features: Distinguishing features: Distinguishing features: Best Distinguishing features: Distinguishing features: Largest species, large spots on Swift and active, spots on upper tasting, no spots on back or tail, Smallest species, large spots on No spots on back or tail, white back, dark mouth, black gums, part of body, white mouth may glassy eyes, white mouth with back, white mouth, black gums, mouth, tongue may be black, v-shaped, silvery tail have black edge, square tail white gum line, small teeth v-shaped tail but no silver large teeth Age at maturity: 3 to 7 years Age at maturity: 3 years Age at maturity: 4 to 5 years Age at maturity: 2 years Age at maturity: 3 to 5 years This page: Pacific Salmon illustrations: Timothy Knepp/U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service; chinook, Alamy Stock Photo; top photo courtesy UnReel Fishing Charters. Facing page: Alamy Stock Photo

28 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast | THE LIFE OF A SALMON All Pacific salmon are anadromous, which means they start in freshwater (streams, lakes, and rivers), migrate to the ocean, and return home to spawn and die.

SALT-WATER READY Fry ready to enter THE BEGINNING TIME TO FREE-SWIMMING salt water are called Females and males INCUBATE Once the alevin absorbs smolts. They develop court and breed. Using Fertilized eggs are all the nutrients in its a silvery coating over its tail, the female digs fragile and incubate yolk sac, it becomes their scales to camou- a nest (called a redd) over winter. Each egg free-swimming fry flage themselves from in natal waters and contains an embryo and must move up predators as they releases thousands and yolk that feeds it. into the water. Fry are travel from fresh to of eggs as the male a favourite snack for salt water. releases a cloud of predators, so they hide milt that floats to the in protected spots and ADULTHOOD bottom. The female HATCHING dart out to eat. At this Salmon enter the covers the nest with The embryo develops time, they have an urge ocean as young/ gravel layers. and hatches as an to migrate to the ocean. juvenile adults and alevin. The alevin still leave as mature adults carries its yolk sac, (length of time varies which contains food per species). Once they for several months. are sexually mature, they travel upstream to natal rivers so future generations of salmon can repeat this cycle.

ON SUSTAINABLE METHODS… Thunderbird “Culturally, [Pacific salmon] are significant to all First Nations peoples along our coast. It is who we are. [As a result,] Returning the sustainable fishing is a key concern. Take only what you can eat — that’s a principle that’s been instilled in First Salmon, Nations culture and sustainable fisheries alike.” — James Cowpar, co-owner and operator of Haida Style Expeditions Quw’utsun’ Cultural and Conference Centre, Duncan, BC.

“For us to catch coho, which is an October), often catching 10 to every iconic BC salmon, is kind of cool,” one of hatchery coho. This is good news for the my friends says as we head back to shore. species. Plus, one of his clients caught DEEPER CONNECTIONS We make a short stop at Entrance (and released) a chinook that was well Island to marvel at bellowing seals and over 40 pounds. BC’s Indigenous Peoples have had an important re- a couple of sea lions, and Captain Phil- “It just shows you that any time lationship with salmon for centuries. Not only have lips informs us that, occasionally, these you go out you have a chance to catch these fish been a vital and long-respected source seals jump into boats to avoid hungry a once-in-a-lifetime fish,” says the of food, they’ve also played prominent roles in the transient orcas. captain. “But I really try to make it art, economy, and mythology of many Indigenous A few months later, I follow up with about the overall experience, enjoying groups. In some First Nations stories, salmon are Phillips, who lets me know he saw “a the wildlife and the ocean. Not many celebrated as returning relatives, demonstrating a huge amount” of wild coho throughout people even get a chance to go out on deep connection between human and fish, and an the fishing season (April to the end of the Pacific Ocean.” ■ age-old reverence for the cycle of life. This page: Pacific Salmon illustrations: Timothy Knepp/U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service; chinook, Alamy Stock Photo; top photo courtesy UnReel Fishing Charters. Facing page: Alamy Stock Photo

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 29 30 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast SOUTHERN GULF ISLANDS

BY JOHN LEE

CHOOSE YOUR OWN ADVENTURE Which Southern Gulf Island is right for you?

otting the ocean off the southwestern about anywhere else in the province, yet each island also shoreline of mainland BC, the Southern has its own micro-identity that’s discernible as soon as Gulf Islands feel far-removed from the you leave the ferry. demands of urban living. On these five Wondering which island fits your personal style islands, day-to-day existence has an and getaway preferences? Find out more with these overall vibe that is different from just theme-based guides to each one. Clockwise from top: Ashlee Rioux/ French Press Photography; Jon Suk; courtesy Press Ocean River Sports; Rioux/Clockwise Ashlee French top: courtesy from Galiano Inn Oceanfront and Spa D

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 31 Artist Gillian Gandossi at work in her studio. Gandossi’s studio and gallery are part of the Salt Spring Studio Tour.

32 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast FOR ARTISTIC INSPIRATION SALT SPRING ith many of the conveniences of mainland living, the archipelago’s most popu- lous island is home to a great variety of friendly bistros, independent boutiques VISIT THE SATURDAY MARKET W and farmstead producers. The arbutus-studded hot spot is also the island that Located in bustling Ganges village, Salt many vacationers choose to visit first. Especially if they’re into art. Spring’s signature attraction is much Here on Salt Spring, creativity seems like second nature. Throughout the island, you’ll more than a great place for produce and find a rich collage of unique studios and art spaces to explore and relish, including that of bakery treats; it’s also jam-packed with Gillian Gandossi (pictured left), whose whimsical paintings are inspired in large part by the the work of many island artists. Arrive beauty of the island’s natural surroundings. early to browse the 140+ stalls, and take your time chatting with the friendly vendors. Afterward, check out the eye-opening installations tucked among the trees at nearby Duthie Gallery Sculpture Park. (The market is open from April to October.) saltspringmarket.com

TAKE THE STUDIO TOUR Download the free Salt Spring Studio Tour map and use it as your guide for a weekend of leisurely exploring. Dive into a variety of eclectic stops on this weave around 26 studios and workshops, which showcase everything from original paintings and driftwood carvings to beach glass jewellery and artisanal edibles. saltspringstudiotour.com

DINE AT CAFÉ TALIA With its paint-peeled shabby chic exterior, this delightful island favourite serves fresh-made breakfasts and lunches (go for the frittata) alongside an ever-changing array of works by Salt Spring artists on its interior walls. cafetaliaonsaltspring.com IF YOU GO… STAY AT HASTINGS HOUSE SHOP AT THE WATERFRONT A handsome 1939-built wood-and- GALLERY stone manor overlooking the water, A one-stop shop in Ganges for creative Hastings House has an array of cozy browsing and buying, this highly inviting quarters, plus some excellent on-site collective features the work of more dining options. Dramatic art installa- than 100 local artists and artisans. Here, tions dot the grassy grounds as well you’ll find rustic pottery, hand-blown as many of the hotel’s interior walls. glass, gorgeous textiles and much more.

Photo; Stock page: KimWheatley/ Alamy Photography; this page clockwise right: Jay top Michael from Facing Co. Creative Stones Two Rosen;Ernest von hastingshouse.com waterfrontgallery.ca

S| GETTING THERE WITH BC FERRIES | SEE P.40

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 33 FOR A RESTORATIVE RETREAT

PADDLE WITH GULF GALIANO ISLAND KAYAKING If swimming in the ocean isn’t enough slender streak of bays and beaches dotted with tangles of wild, wind-sculpted trees, time in the water, go for a paddle with Galiano — named for a Spanish explorer who visited the area in the 18th century — these local experts. Gulf Island Kaya- A fuses a hub-like southern end with inviting pockets of true tranquility. king guides will show you how to use The deer-friendly trails of Bluffs Park and the Garry oak-fringed panoramas of Mount your kayak (if you need instruction), Galiano are a big part of what makes this island an idyllic, retreat-like escape. But immersive then tell you all about Galiano’s natural nature is only one way to pamper yourself here. Other ways include relaxing with locally side while you navigate your craft inspired spa treatments, soaking your cares away in an oceanside hot tub, or picnicking with through calm waters. If you really want a page-turner, purchased from the island’s beloved bookstore. to treat yourself, book ahead for the magical Bioluminescence Night Tour. seakayak.ca IF YOU GO… menu of treatment options to choose VISIT GALIANO ISLAND from — many of which incorporate the PLEASE YOUR PALATE BOOKS healing properties of British Columbian AT PILGRIMME Turn off your phone and lose yourself in and Canadian ingredients. No matter Make time for an unforgettable dinner a good, old-fashioned book. There’s a which experience you choose, follow it at pilgrimme, one of BC’s most celebrat- wide selection at this family-run book up with a scenic soak in the spa’s seaside ed restaurants. Tucked among towering shop, where the staff always have plen- hot tub. galianoinn.com cedars and exuding a cabin-like feel, ty of intriguing BC author suggestions. this spot offers masterful, seasonally galianoislandbooks.com REVEL IN NATURE AT focused dishes by award-winning chef MONTAGUE HARBOUR and co-owner Jesse McCleery. Most PAMPER YOUR BODY AT MARINE PROVINCIAL PARK of the ingredients in pilgrimme’s tiny GALIANO OCEANFRONT Take a refreshing swim in the park’s kitchen are sourced locally, and, while INN & SPA crystal-clear waters, or plan for a full the menu changes regularly, you can One of the island’s most popular day of rejuvenating nature-dwelling: a expect culinary masterpieces such places to stay also has its own spa. picnic on the sand, a wander on a white as Galiano potatoes in kelp oil, with A soothing spot for restoring your shell beach and gentle hikes between salmon roe, buttermilk, and smoked

spirits, Madrona del Mar Spa has a long the lichen-draped trees. and pickled bull kelp. pilgrimme.ca KrisWeinert; Galiano by Island Books photo Krüg Kayak Frieda by photo

34 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast TAKE A SUP TOUR Pender Island Kayak Adventures offers several tours, but one of the most enchanting is its evening stand-up paddleboard option, where you’ll slide over the glassy briny and take your time gazing at pyrotechnic sunsets from the water. kayakpenderisland.com

COZY UP AT WOODS ON PENDER WOODS has rustic cabins and modest motel rooms on offer, but it’s the property’s gaggle of shiny, refurbished Airstream trailers — complete with outdoor private hot tubs — that make this one of the Gulf Islands’ coolest spots for a sleepover. There’s also a restaurant there, where you can toast your visit with craft cocktails. woodsonpender.com

EMBARK ON A GUIDED HIKE FOR A ROMANTIC ESCAPE If you and your partner are first-time visitors to Pender, seeking out the island’s many scenic nooks and crannies PENDER is especially thrilling. Book an accom- panied wander with the friendly folks ith its rolling meadows, tree-framed lakes and at Dog Mermaid, and perhaps scope out multiple small beaches dotted by wave-worn logs, IF YOU GO… a few romantic spots to revisit alone. W Pender is one of the archipelago’s most scenic is- RAISE A GLASS AT dogmermaid.com lands. Actually two islands — North Pender and South Pender SEA STAR VINEYARDS — connected by a slender bridge, the bucolic terrain here is a Surrounded by scenic views of the ocean DINE AT JO’S PLACE fitting backdrop for starry-eyed visitors who might be craving and Mount Menzies, this vine-sloped Enjoy the warm and welcoming an idyllic couples’ getaway. charmer is a Pender must-see. Check atmosphere at Jo’s Place. Chat with each It’s not hard to find romantic picnic spots (complete with ahead to ensure that its art-lined tasting other, and with friendly locals, over island-studded ocean panoramas) on Mount Norman, Pender’s room is open and, once you arrive, be perfectly prepared breakfast dishes (the highest point. But if you’re looking for an ideal location to pop sure to sip a glass or two of sweet Poetry Smoked Salmon Eggs Benny is highly the question, North Pender’s Roesland is one of BC’s dreamiest dessert wine. An on-site food truck recommended). Alternatively, if your destinations. At low tide, follow an easy trail within this sea- serves delicious food in an adjacent pic- passion extends to great burgers, there’s side park (part of the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve) and nic area — and selections on the menu a host of mouth-watering winners here, you’ll soon reach Roe Islet, a grassy, sunset-hugging spot where are designed to pair perfectly with Sea many prepared with Jo’s special sauce.

Clockwise from top left: courtesy WOODS; Ashlee Rioux/French Press Photography; Reuben Krabbe Press Rioux/French WOODS;Clockwise Ashlee left: top courtesy from arbutus trees encircle a lovely promontory. Star’s wines. seastarvineyards.ca josplacepender.com

S| GETTING THERE WITH BC FERRIES | SEE P.40

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 35 FOR A HISTORY-RICH TRIP MAYNE hough Mayne is known as one of the quietest of the Southern Gulf Islands, this wasn’t always the case. During the late 1800s, at the height of the gritty Gold T Rush era, it was a prime pit stop for rowdy, northbound prospectors. And it’s TOAST THE PAST AT MAYNE this roiling, boom time past that many visitors love to explore. ISLAND BREWING COMPANY Radiating from Miners Bay village, yesteryear buildings create a walk-through With its distinctive map-insignia labels, living-history ambiance. There’s the shingle-sided 19th-century church St. Mary this gable-roofed nano brewery is a Magdalene, with its graveyard of old stone crosses; the 1892-built Springwater Lodge must for visiting beer fans. History-lovers hotel — one of BC’s oldest — where locals now gather for fish and chips; and the tiny, should try the Little Hell strong ale, 123-year-old wooden gaol that now houses a community museum. Its displays some- which echoes the nickname Gold Rush times spill over into the nearby Agricultural Hall, recalling the days when islanders pit-stoppers had for the boomtown later gave up chasing gold and a thriving farming sector took root. Indeed, Mayne’s many- known as Miners Bay. chaptered history is rich with stories that extend well beyond the Gold Rush. mayneislandbrewingco.com

STAY AT MAYNE ISLAND RESORT Complete with a shoreline spa and seafood-focused bistro, this chic resort in Bennett Bay is centered on a century-old building that was originally constructed as accommodation for local brick factory workers. Later transformed into a hotel, it has a colourful history that includes dozens of owners and long-forgotten names such as Hollandia Lodge and Arbutus Lodge. mayneislandresort.com

PAY TRIBUTE AT THE JAPANESE GARDEN Mayne was home to many Japanese farming families until Canada’s Second World War internment policy forced these residents off the island. This manicured, blossom-studded garden in Dinner Bay Park was planted to commemorate these former locals. Check out the site’s historical plaque for the full story.

BROWSE THE FARMERS’ IF YOU GO… MARKET VISIT THE ACTIVE PASS Held around the Agricultural Hall on Sat- LIGHTHOUSE urdays from the May long weekend until Located at Georgina Point — where Thanksgiving, this is the place to go in Captain George Vancouver once camped the summer. It often seems like everyone — this red-capped landmark is the third on the island is here exploring the stalls, lighthouse to be built on this site (the first chatting to vendors and tapping their was in 1885). The heritage-protected site toes to the live music. This is also the site also has a 1940s lightkeeper’s residence of mid-August’s legendary Fall Fair, which

to see. is fast approaching its centenary year. Photography @jaspergarrattphotography; LJ Brown all other photos: Top:

S| GETTING THERE WITH BC FERRIES | SEE P.40

36 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast More free getaways. Vehicle & Driver Adult Passenger $200 Vacations One Way Fare One Way Fare Voucher free with free with free with 30,000 points 7,200 points 106,000 points Or only $45 plus 7,500 points Or only $80 plus 64,000 points

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onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 37 FOR AN OUTDOORSY GETAWAY SATURNA

ature-based tranquility is the norm on Saturna. Almost half its craggy landmass EMBRACE SELF-GUIDED is within the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve, creating a triple haven for CYCLING N unfettered wildlife, 350 serenity-loving locals and the kind of visitors who crave Bring your own wheels on the ferry or immersive get-away-from-it-all escapes. snag a rental from Saturna Cycle near Here, there’s plenty for active, outdoorsy types to do, from challenging cycling and the Lyall Harbour dock and you’ll soon be shoreline kayaking to incredible wilderness hikes. Among those hikes is the Mount hitting the roads — just watch out for Warburton Pike summit (the highest in the Gulf Islands National Park Reserve), which the wild turkeys that cross these roads as offers sweeping panoramas of Plumper Sound, framed by the spectral visage of distant if they own the place. Mount Baker. STAY AT SATURNA LODGE This fully updated 1920s boutique property overlooks beautiful Boot Cove and features lovely gardens, replete with bamboo groves, aromatic rose bushes and vibrant raspberry plants. Butterflies abound in the summertime, and the friendly hosts have plenty of local hiking suggestions. saturna.ca

UNWIND AT SATURNA LIGHTHOUSE PUB Satisfying your hunger after all that hiking and kayaking is easy at this local favourite, especially if you dive into a hearty plate of crisply battered fish and chips. Add a restorative side-order of breathtaking Navy Channel views and a refreshing BC craft beer and you’ll never want to leave. saturnapub.com

IF YOU GO… TAKE A GUIDED KAYAKING EXCURSION WALK THE BROWN Hop in a kayak at Ocean River Sports in RIDGE TRAIL Lyall Harbour for a guided paddle around If you prefer hiking and want to dive some of Saturna’s most scenic spots. deeply into Saturna’s natural edge, check While paddling, look out for nesting out this dramatic, view-hugging trail. raptors, rare wildflowers and curious You’ll spot abundant birdlife (listen harbour seals. Prefer to stay on dry land? for woodpeckers) as well as some of Ocean River also offers guided hikes. the hardy wild goats that make this

oceanriver.com area home. courtesy Photo; Ocean Stock River Sports Alamy courtesy age fotostock/ Photo; Saturna Stock Lighthouse Pub; Alamy Clockwise right: top age fotostock/ from

S| GETTING THERE WITH BC FERRIES | SEE P.40

38 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 39 S| GETTING THERE WITH BC FERRIES | HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS & SUITES Vancouver COMOX VALLEY PROUDLY OWNED BY BAYVIEW HOTEL GROUP LTD CANADA Tsawwassen THE USA Sturdies Bay, Galiano Island ISLAND’S Long Harbour, Salt Spring Island Village Bay, Mayne Island Lyall Harbour, Saturna Island Fulford Harbour, HIDDEN JEWEL Salt Spring Island Otter Bay, Pender Island Swartz Bay · Indoor swimming pool, · Quite bayside location in the Vancouver whirlpool and waterslide heart of Courtenay · Complimentary Hot buffet · Convenience center with Breakfast included fridge, microwave and · 24hr Fitness center, 24hr Hot Beverage Maker Victoria Island’s business center, free WI-FI · 32” LCD Flat screen TV Salish Eagle BREATHTAKING 1-778-225-0010 | 2200 Cliffe Ave., Courtenay, BC V9N 2L4

DEPARTING FROM VANCOUVER (Tsawwassen) or VICTORIA (Swartz Bay)

GALIANO is considered the gateway to the Southern Gulf Islands and is a one-hour ferry ride from the Lower Mainland via Tsawwassen terminal. Your journey will take you across the Salish Sea to Sturdies Bay on Galiano, the first stop on this BC Ferries’ Gulf Island route. If Best you’re travelling from Swartz Bay, there are a number of non-stop sailing options as well as sailings with stops and/or transfers at Pender, Mayne and Saturna.

Choose to travel from Tsawwassen to Long Harbour on the east of SALT SPRING ISLAND or sail from Tsawwassen to Swartz Bay on Vancouver Island where you can board a ferry that Kept will take you to Fulford Harbour, located near the Island’s southern end.

Sailings from Tsawwassen to Village Bay on MAYNE ISLAND include a stop or transfer at Galiano Island. Sailings from Swartz Bay include one stop at Galiano, Pender or Saturna, while some sailings include two stops, at either Pender and Saturna, or Pender and Galiano Islands. Secrets PENDER ISLAND is only a 40-minute ferry ride from Swartz Bay terminal. Most sailings from Swartz Bay are direct to Otter Bay located on the north of the Island. Travel in less than two hours on the ferry from Tsawwassen via stops or transfers at Mayne and Galiano. Explore Vancouver from

At the southern end of the Gulf Islands’ chain is SATURNA ISLAND. Depending on what sailing you choose, Saturna is approximately one hour and 30 minutes from Swartz Bay or the perfect room with two to three hours from Tsawwassen depending on the stops and transfers at Galiano and Mayne Islands. an even better view.

For inter-island travel to the Southern Gulf Islands, you can choose to walk on board and take a day trip to a number of islands or take the car and spend a few days touring all five! Winner of Lavish and luxurious or BC’s Remarkable Reservations are recommended on sailings from Tsawwassen travelling to the convenient and Southern Gulf Islands. Experience Award

FOR SAILING SCHEDULES AND RESERVATIONS VISIT bcferries.com OPEN cost-conscious, your YEAR ROUND Ranked #1 by tripadvisor choice is never wrong. Find the Southern Gulf Island that’s right for you with BC Ferries Vacations™. Premier First Nations Visit bcferries.com/vacations to book your hotel, ferry travel and extras all in one place. 250.248.7829 Destination Hotel Choose from hundreds of unique packages throughout coastal BC. HORNELAKE.COM Port Hardy, BC www.KwalilasHotel.ca 1-855-949-8525

40 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast HOLIDAY INN EXPRESS & SUITES COMOX VALLEY PROUDLY OWNED BY BAYVIEW HOTEL GROUP LTD

THE ISLAND’S HIDDEN JEWEL · Indoor swimming pool, · Quite bayside location in the Vancouver whirlpool and waterslide heart of Courtenay · Complimentary Hot buffet · Convenience center with Breakfast included fridge, microwave and · 24hr Fitness center, 24hr Hot Beverage Maker BREATHTAKING Island’s business center, free WI-FI · 32” LCD Flat screen TV 1-778-225-0010 | 2200 Cliffe Ave., Courtenay, BC V9N 2L4 Best Kept Secrets Explore Vancouver from the perfect room with an even better view.

Winner of Lavish and luxurious or BC’s Remarkable convenient and Experience Award OPEN cost-conscious, your YEAR ROUND Ranked #1 by tripadvisor choice is never wrong. Premier First Nations 250.248.7829 Destination Hotel HORNELAKE.COM Port Hardy, BC www.KwalilasHotel.ca 1-855-949-8525

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 41 Enjoy the great taste of White Spot during your sailing!

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onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 43 | COASTAL ARTISTS | BY ELIZABETH CHORNEY-BOOTH

CREATIVE INSPIRATIONS Meet three local artists whose unique creations celebrate coastal life and enrich your journey.

ith routes traversing some of the most beautiful waters in North America, sailing with BC Ferries isn’t just about getting from here to there, it’s about experiencing breathtaking locales inhabited by people W who have loved and cared for the coastal lands for centuries. BC Ferries is committed to celebrating the culture of the northwest coast, and part of that culture is the art created by the Indigenous people and communities along the ferry routes. From the items available on board in Passages to the artwork that adorns the newest vessel to enter BC Ferries’ fleet — the Northern Sea Wolf — Indigenous art is a part of the experience. The following three BC- based artists help give ferry passengers a true taste of what the BC coast is all about.

RICHARD HUNT When asked how he became interested and Royal BC Museum, alongside the Despite having already enjoyed a in traditional carving, Kwakwaka’wakw great Kwakwaka’wakw carver Mungo decades-long career that has kept his artist Richard Hunt responds without Martin. Richard himself worked at the ancestors’ art form alive and helped hesitation. “It’s my culture,” he says. museum from 1972 to 1986 before leav- to re-establish carving traditions with Wood carving is not only part of ing to pursue freelance work and has Indigenous youth, Hunt is always Hunt’s cultural heritage, it’s his fam- since become one of the West Coast’s keen to push himself as an artist. So, ily’s profession. His father was famed most celebrated carvers, receiving the when BC Ferries issued a call for artist artist Henry Hunt, best known for his Order of British Columbia in 1991 and, submissions to adorn its newest vessel work at Victoria’s Thunderbird Park in 1994, the Order of Canada. to enter the fleet, the Northern Sea RICHARD HUNT Wolf, which begins travel between Port Hardy and Bella Coola this year, Hunt put his name in the hat. Even though carving is his primary medium, Hunt put together some one-dimensional designs to submit to the competition. A panel made up of BC Ferries representatives and First Peoples Cultural Council members selected his design portraying Komokwa, the mythical Chief of the Sea, and his family of animals: Sea Eagle, Sea Bear, Sea Raven and Sea Wolf. The piece is now displayed on the interior of the vessel. In addition, the Sea Wolf figure from the piece adorns either side of the bow of the ship so that the animal

appears to be running in the water as Kim by Photography Richard Hunt photo Jay

44 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast “This is an honour for me. When else would I ever see a design of mine on a big boat?” — Richard Hunt

Richard Hunt in his studio.

the waves crash along the bottom of most of his time carving in the style he buyers know they are getting legiti- the ferry. learned from his father. Unlike many mate Indigenous art created by someone “This is an honour for me,” says carvers, whether Hunt is carving a with authentic roots in the culture. “I Hunt. “When else would I ever see a small mask or a full totem pole, he uses don’t have a stable of workers working design of mine on a big boat?” traditional tools and does everything for me and I’m not in a rush,” he says. Hunt, who is very proud of his himself. As a result, each of his pieces “I guarantee to people who collect my

Richard Hunt photo by Kim by Photography Richard Hunt photo Jay Komokwa design, continues to spend can take a lot of time to complete, but work that if my name is on it, I did it.”

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 45 DANIKA NACCARELLA Danika Naccarella is a shining example school years. Upon graduation, she of the younger generation of Indigenous pursued a diploma in First Nations Fine artists that are emerging on the north- Arts from the Freda Diesing School of west coast. Born in 1997, Naccarella Northwest Coast Art in Terrace, before is just beginning her career, but as the returning to Bella Coola to become the second of two artists whose work was arts teacher assistant at the local school. selected for display on BC Ferries’ While Naccarella works in a num- Northern Sea Wolf, she is poised to be- ber of mediums, including jewellery come a major force on the BC arts scene. Born in Vancouver, Naccarella moved to Bella Coola, where her moth- er is originally from, when she was 12 years old. Surrounded by a community teeming with her family’s Nuxalk culture, Naccarella spent time exploring traditional art throughout her high

“I’m going to be an elder one day, so I have to learn everything I can.” — Danika Naccarella

Danika Naccarella in the art room at Bella Coola's Presenting Sponsor Acwsalcta school.

46 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast and hand poke tattoos, painting classic “Right now I feel like I’m where I’m Nuxalk motifs (which tend to feature supposed to be,” she says. “Helping the animals and other figures created in a kids to see the culture is really import- recognizable Pacific West Coast style) ant. One thing I have to remember is is her primary mode of expression. that I’m going to be an elder one day, In addition to the connection it gives so I have to learn everything I can.” her to her ancestors, she finds the perfection and balance of traditional art fascinating from a technical point CHLOË ANGUS of view. Not all art hangs on a wall or stands in “The designs need to be a certain a courtyard — Chloë Angus’s creations way so that the [shapes] complement are displayed on the body. The woman each other and there’s a balance of behind the Vancouver-based Chloë positive and negative space,” she says. Angus Designs works closely with “These designs were here before any First Nations, Inuit and Métis artists to of us were born and they meant a lot bring traditional art to a new medium more to our ancestors than just shapes with the garments that make up her and forms. They told stories and family much celebrated Spirit Collection. Copper Sun history and so many other things.” This collection, which Angus has Naccarella was beyond thrilled been producing since her company that her work was chosen to be dis- launched in 2004, includes high- Journeys played inside the Northern Sea Wolf. quality wraps, jackets, shirts and other Her painting depicts a pod of orcas clothing items printed with art created and Gallery — a nod to both the majesty of these by Haida, Salish, Ojibwe, Tlingit and creatures and the rich waters BC Ferries other Indigenous Canadian artists — sails — and to her, it represents family all of whom work in direct collabora- and loyalty. tion with Angus. It’s this appreciation that also Angus was raised in Egmont, a compels Naccarella to continue as a predominantly Indigenous commu- teaching assistant in Bella Coola, where nity on the Sunshine Coast. The Spirit she aims to support and inspire the Collection is her way of paying respect next generation of cultural custodians. to the artwork she grew up with. Rafting the

WELCOMING THE NORTHERN SEA WOLF Bella Coola

Starting in Summer 2019, the Northern Sea Wolf will provide direct summer service between Port Hardy and Bella Coola. Named in honour of an Indigenous legend in which River the Sea Wolf is a manifestation of the Orca, the vessel will bring welcome ferry service to Book your tour today local residents while also providing travellers with easy access to BC’s stunning Central Coast, and into the heart of the Great Bear Rainforest. This year, service runs from June 3 250.267.6430 to October 10, 2019. [email protected] Visit us at our location in Bella Coola 442 Mackenzie Street Danika Naccarella photo by Michael Wigle Danika Michael by photo Naccarella

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 47 Chloë Angus, sporting a scarf from her Spirit Collection, in her Vancouver shop.

“I had the honour of growing up in a beautiful place within the Indigenous “I wanted to explore how Indigenous art could come alive on a community and I wanted to share my experience with people,” she says. “I body and how I could balance it in a wearable and modern way.” wanted to explore how Indigenous art — Chloë Angus could come alive on a body and how I could balance it in a wearable and modern way.” The centerpieces of the Spirit Collection are the spirit wraps, which Angus with sudden paralysis. In the across Canada and at chloeangus.com. are versatile pieces that can be worn in face of being told she’d never walk She loves that the pieces give custom- a number of different ways over basic again, and learning to adjust to life ers a chance to display traditional wardrobe pieces. Angus is especially in a wheelchair, her urge to confound Indigenous motifs anywhere they go, proud to offer clothing that is not only expectations only intensified. So did spreading the spirit of the Pacific coast made from environmentally sustain- her desire to celebrate diversity and around the world. able fabrics, but also fits and flatters build bridges between people from “The Spirit Collection says a wide range of body types, even as all backgrounds and abilities through something when you wear it,” Angus an individual’s shape changes with fashion. says. “I’m finding that people tend to age or ability. She knows first-hand Angus’s spirit wraps and other choose to wear the spirit wraps when how important it is to feel included items are available on board BC Ferries’ they want to be seen, when they want and considered as needs change. vessels in Passages, as well as various to be heard and when they want to be

In 2015, a benign spinal tumor left museum gift shops and boutiques remembered.” ■ Elliot Lindsay by Photo

48 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast Photo by Lindsay Elliot Lindsay by Photo

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 49 Business hours Come for Monday to Friday 8am to 3pm Saturday and Sunday 8am to 4pm

10 minutes from the Langdale ferry terminal the location ... in the heart of Gibsons Landing on the Beautiful Sunshine Coast.

mollysreach.ca Stay for find us on Facebook MollysReachRestaurant the food! (604) 886-9710

50 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast THE SUNSHINE COAST

BY JESSICA NATALE WOOLLARD PHOTOGRAPHY BY DOLF VERMEULEN

UNDER THE SEA Gibsons’ innovative “collect-and-release” aquarium borrows creatures from the ocean floor and brings them to eye level.

n a warm, sunny day the first public aquarium on the last October, a crowd of Sunshine Coast. about 40 people of all “It was a wonderful, multi- O ages lined the wooden generational event, with young kids dock at Armours Beach in Gib- to grandparents,” remembers Colin sons on the Sunshine Coast, hands Stansfield, executive director of the clasping buckets of every colour. Gibsons Community Building Society, Inside each bucket were marine the not-for-profit organization that op- creatures — orange sea stars, purple erates the Gibsons Public Market and sea cucumbers, red crabs — that the Nicholas Sonntag Centre. “The had been on display at the Nicholas Release Day allowed us to encourage Sonntag Marine Education Centre tangible engagement with our marine for the previous eight months. That ecosystems and that sort of personal afternoon, with the help of aquarium connection that brings the ocean to supporters and staff, the animals eye level and fosters greater compas- were being returned to their home in sion and empathy for the animals the Salish Sea. who live in the ecosystems.” The Release Day was the first Top: The centre's touch-tanks provide The centre was named after of its kind for the centre since open- visitors with a hands-on experience. the late Nicholas Sonntag, a local ing in the fall of 2017 and becoming Above: Anenome from the Salish Sea. engineer who devoted his life to

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 51 preserving Earth’s resources. He model is that it’s an ethical approach we’ll inspire people to think about envisioned opening a public market to educating the public about the the types of behaviours and actions with a marine education component diversity of the marine ecosystems they can take to support marine and on the abandoned former site of the on which we depend,” Stansfield says. environmental sustainability.” Gibsons Yacht Club. The aquari- “We believe it’s important for tourists Since opening, the centre has wel- um that bears his name follows a and locals alike to learn about the comed more than 12,000 people to its collect-and-release model, one used marine wildlife in the region because 30 exhibits, which collectively feature by only a small number of other with greater awareness comes greater 32,000 gallons of water and 400 speci- aquariums in Canada. understanding of how we are all con- mens representing 70 species. Visitors “What appeals to us about the nected to the sea and it to us. Ideally, can feel the spines of a prickly sea

“Ideally, we’ll inspire people to think about the types of behaviours and actions they can take to support marine and environmental sustainability.” — Colin Stansfield

52 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast urchin, marvel at copper rockfish “The partnership is a wonderful and prehistoric glass sponges, smell synergy for us — we’re transporting a watermelon-scented hooded people over to Gibsons and once nudibranch, and pet the rough edges there, they’ll learn about the won- of a seastar. The centre’s staff includes derful habitat they saw during their registered professional biologists and travels,” says Mika Desloges, corpo- COME EXPERIENCE certified scientific divers who collect rate social responsibility manager at THE MYSTERY, new creatures a few times a year BC Ferries. WONDER AND MAGIC and, at the same time, release others. “The Nicholas Sonntag Centre OF THE AMAZING The animals are returned to Howe does an excellent job of providing ac- UNDERSEA WORLD AT Sound in the Salish Sea where they cessible education on the marine en- OUR DOORSTEP. were found, so they “can fulfill their vironment, which is very important biological destiny,” Stansfield says. for us. Education is a fundamental Gibsons, made famous in the component of motivating people quirky 1970s Canadian TV series to passionately participate in the The Beachcombers, is accessible by preservation of our beautiful coastal ferry. Passengers can travel to the communities,” says Desloges. Langdale terminal via BC Ferries Stansfield agrees. The centre’s from Horseshoe Bay in Vancouver, ultimate goal is for visitors to be a 40-minute crossing during which moved by the experience of interact- the ferry traverses the very same ing with the sea creatures and take marine environment the Nicholas action to care for marine ecosystems. Sonntag Centre brings to the surface To that end, the collect-and- with its educational exhibits. BC release model is key to success. Ferries is supporting the centre as its “We bring the mystery up from presenting sponsor for the first three the deep,” Stansfield says. “We see years of operations through the the same excitement in a three-year- SeaForward program — a BC Ferries old visitor as we do in an 83-year- Visit the Sunshine Coast's initiative that aims to protect and old. The way that learning then only Community Aquarium preserve the local environment in a acts as a vehicle for connecting is Release Day photo by Colin Stansfield Colin by photo Release Day variety of ways. inspiring.” • 30 Natural Habitat Displays • Local Species from Howe Sound and Sechelt Inlet • Touch Tanks • Fun for the Whole Family

FIND US Gibsons Public Market 604-886-8814 gibsonsmarine-ed.org Left: Colin Stansfield stands among the exhibits at the Nicholas Sonntag Marine Education Centre. Above: Release Day at Armours Beach in Gibsons. Follow us on Facebook and Instagram @nsmec

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 53 WELCOME

to your corner office SUPPORTING COMMUNITIES WITH SEAFORWARD BC Ferries cares about communities; we care about the We’re hiring for #CareersOnTheCoast. environment; and we want to leave a legacy for the next Join one of BC’s Top Employers and a global leader in generation. We do all of this through SeaForward, sustainable ferry transportation. We’re looking to fill BC Ferries’ corporate social responsibility program, which ship and shore-based positions for entry level and focuses on giving back to the communities we serve. experienced roles. The open air and untamed waters “We recognize the impact we have on people’s lives,” of the west coast are calling. says Mika Desloges, corporate social responsibility manager. “We want to do as much as we can to support our communities.” BC Ferries chose SeaForward’s three focus areas for their potential to make meaningful, lasting contributions to the environment and to improve the lives of the people who travel by ferry around our beautiful province.

CARING FOR OUR we support emerging clas- ENVIRONMENT sical musicians and overall Photo: Scott McAlpine, BCIT We demonstrate our community well-being. commitment to operating • We fundraise for charita- in a safe, efficient and sus- ble organizations through Visit bcferries.com/careers and set your course. tainable manner and doing initiatives and events, all we can to reduce our including our annual environmental footprint. charity golf tournament that has raised more SUPPORT IN ACTION than $550,000 Client: BC Ferries • We are investing in • We provide in-kind travel File Name: BCF_COR_L90007_recruitment_Onboard_Mag_4.527x4.75 fuel-efficient ship design, for not-for-profit sports Actual Size: 4.527 x 54.75 dual fuel/ LNG vessels and organizations and young Colours: 4 Date: March 19, 2019 10:39 AM will soon have two new athletes Insertion Date: electric hybrid ferries Material Due: • We are reducing under- LEAVING A LEGACY Publication: Onboard Magazine water noise of our vessels BC Ferries demonstrates Operator: LM • We are working with our commitment to a research partners such green future and to being a as Ocean Networks Canada global citizen by providing to help monitor the health accessible educational of areas like the Strait opportunities for all ages. of Georgia SUPPORT IN ACTION CARING FOR OUR • We support the Nicholas COMMUNITIES Sonntag Marine Education BC Ferries supports Centre as presenting programs, services and sponsor organizations that improve • We deliver the popular the health and well-being Coastal Naturalist program of coastal residents. in the summer months. This partnership with Parks SUPPORT IN ACTION Canada and Ocean Wise • As the title sponsor of the shares engaging presenta- Pacific Region International tions with ferry passengers Summer Music Academy in terminals, on board and (PRISMA) that takes place in communities. ■ every year in Powell River,

54 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast D LOCA A L E B R C

S N E L I O set sail E C T c bc books

Discover Read Local BC featured books and other BC reads in BC Ferries Passages Gift Shops and a our local bookstore. Explore ReadLocalBC.ca for inspiring BC books, behind-the-scenes tours, interviews, essa s, excerpts, bestseller lists, and more.

ReadLocalBC.ca @ReadLocalBC We acknowledge the financial support of the Government of Canada through the Canada Book Fund (CBF) for this project.

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 55 Our Fleet New Vessel For more information about our vessels, visit bcferries.com Northern Sea Wolf

Built: 2000, Greece Maximum Speed: 17 knots Passenger & Crew Capacity: 150

The Sea Wolf is believed to be the land manifestation of the Orca and has come to symbolize family and loyalty in First Nations culture. Today, it is said that the spirit of the Sea Wolf protects those travelling their waters. This summer, travel direct between Port Hardy and Bella Coola on board BC Ferries’ newest vessel through the picturesque waters of the Inside Passage.

Welcome to the fleet!

Spirit of British Columbia

Powell River Queen Bowen Queen Nimpkish Salish Eagle Salish Raven Built: 1965, Victoria Built: 1965, Victoria Built: 1973, Vancouver Built: 2016, Poland Built: 2016, Poland Maximum Speed: 14.5 knots Maximum Speed: 14.5 knots Maximum Speed: 11 knots Maximum Speed: 15.5 knots Maximum Speed: 15.5 knots Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Car Capacity: 138 Passenger & Crew Capacity: 400 Capacity: 400 Capacity: 95 Capacity: 600

Kahloke Mayne Queen Klitsa Spirit of British Columbia Coastal Renaissance Built: 1973, Vancouver Built: 1965, Victoria Built: 1972, Vancouver Built: 1993, Victoria Built: 2007, Germany Maximum Speed: 10 knots Maximum Speed: 14.5 knots Maximum Speed: 10 knots Maximum Speed: 19.5 knots Maximum Speed: 23 knots Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Car Capacity: 310 Capacity: 200 Capacity: 400 Capacity: 150 Capacity: 2,100

Skeena Queen Quadra Queen II Queen of Capilano Tachek North Island Princess Built: 1997, Vancouver Built: 1969, Vancouver Built: 1991, Vancouver Built: 1969, Vancouver Built: 1958, Vancouver Maximum Speed: 17.3 knots Maximum Speed: 12.5 knots Maximum Speed: 12 knots Maximum Speed: 12.5 knots Maximum Speed: 13 knots Car Capacity: 92 Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Capacity: 150 Capacity: 457 Capacity: 150 Capacity: 150

Queen of New Westminster Kuper Queen of Coquitlam Queen of Oak Bay Built: 1964, Victoria Built: 1985 – Lengthened in 2006 Northern Adventure Built: 1976, Vancouver Built: 1981, Victoria Maximum Speed: 20 knots Maximum Speed: 10 knots Built: 2004 Maximum Speed: 20.5 knots Maximum Speed: 20.5 knots Car Capacity: 254 Passenger & Crew Maximum Speed: 20.5 knots Car Capacity: 316 Car Capacity: 308 Capacity: 269 Car Capacity: 87

Kwuna Island Sky Built: 1975, Victoria Coastal Celebration Queen of Alberni Queen of Surrey Built: 2008, Vancouver Maximum Speed: 9.5 knots Built: 2007, Germany Built: 1976, Vancouver Built: 1981, Vancouver Maximum Speed: 14.5 knots Passenger & Crew Maximum Speed: 23 knots Maximum Speed: 21 knots Maximum Speed: 20.5 knots Car Capacity: 112 Capacity: 150 Car Capacity: 310 Car Capacity: 280 Car Capacity: 308

Baynes Sound Connector Spirit of Vancouver Island Quinitsa Built: 2015, Vancouver Queen of Cumberland Built: 1994, Victoria Coastal Inspiration Built: 1977, Vancouver Maximum Speed: 8.5 knots Built: 1992, Vancouver Maximum Speed: 19.5 knots Built: 2008, Germany Maximum Speed: 9.75 knots Passenger & Crew Maximum Speed: 12.5 knots Car Capacity: 358 Maximum Speed: 23 knots Passenger & Crew Capacity: 150 Car Capacity: 112 Passenger & Crew Capacity: 300 Capacity: 1,604

Northern Sea Wolf Salish Orca Quinsam Northern Expedition Queen of Cowichan Built: 2000, Greece Built: 2016, Poland Built: 1982, Vancouver Built: 2009, Germany Built: 1976, Victoria Maximum Speed: 17 knots Maximum Speed: 15.5 knots Maximum Speed: 12 knots Maximum Speed: 20.5 knots Maximum Speed: 20.5 knots Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Passenger & Crew Car Capacity: 115 Passenger & Crew Capacity: 150 Capacity: 600 Capacity: 400 Capacity: 1,494

56 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 57 Where we sail With an expanding fleet of 35 vessels that serve up to 47 ports of call, we take great pride in operating as one of the world’s largest ferry operators and connecting you with the people and communities of BC’s magnificent coast. See you on board soon.

To the Alaska Highway

Terrace Smithers Prince Rupert 16 Masset

Kitimat

Prince George

Skidegate Sandspit 16 Alliford Bay To Jasper fjordland tweedsmuir recreation park Quesnel area

Klemtu Anahim Lake Ocean Falls Bella Nimpo Lake Coola 20

Hagensborg 97 McLoughlin Bay Shearwater Puntzi Lake Bella Bella Denny Island hakai Tatla Lake Alexis Williams Lake recreation Creek area

Banff

Lillooet 1 Port Hardy Sointula Railroad Port McNeill Alert Bay Highways Pemberton BC Ferries Routes 19 Cortes Island Alaska Marine Highway 99 Quadra Island Whistler Powell River Campbell River 19a Saltery Bay southern Horseshoe Bay 19 Texada Island Earls Cove 5 Comox 19a gulf islands Hornby Langdale Vancouver Denman Island Horseshoe Bay Nanaimo Island Bowen Hope 19 19a Gabriola Island Departure Island Vancouver 7 Harrison Hot Springs Tofino Port Alberni Bay 1 19 Duke Tsawwassen 4 Point Ucluelet Nanaimo Southern Gulf Islands Chemainus Tsawwassen (see inset) Chemainus Bellingham Thetis Island Port Renfrew Mill Bay Swartz Bay 14 Brentwood Bay Penelakut Island Sooke 5 Crofton Vesuvius Victoria Long Harbour Sturdies Bay, Galiano Island Salt Spring Island Village Bay, Mayne Island Fulford Harbour Saturna Island washington Otter Bay, Swartz Bay Pender Islands Seattle

Victoria

PROOF# DOCKET #: 132103260 CLIENT: BCF DESCRIPTION: OnBoard Mag account art copywriter: creative producer: studio 01 executive: director: director: artist: 5th Floor, 1085 Homer Street, FILE NAME: 3260-BCF_OnboardMag_7-875x10-75.indd Vancouver, BC V6B 1J4 jc dt sd agf p: 778 331 8340 TRIM: 7.875" x 10.75" LIVE: 6.875" x 9.75" BLEED: .25" f: 778 331 8341 approval: (sign off required) www.camppacific.com IMAGE INFO: 300 dpi CLIENT [XXX] AD NUMBER [000] PLEASE NOTE: colour lasers do not C M accurately represent the colours in Y K the finished product.this proof is XXX000 strictly for layout purposes only. MODIFICATION DATE: March 9, 2018 3:16 PM GWAII HAANAS Make your connection. Faites votre connexion. Hla gudGll sGaagid.

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HAIDA NATION

onboardmagazine.ca | 2019 59 VICTORIA | VANCOUVER | TELEGRAPH COVE

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60 onBoard magazine | 2019 | #ShareTheCoast