WHAT AND WHERE places: a small guide about the Gallura (text by Antonella Bonacossa) www.turismorurale.org The region Gallura has many contrasts: the asperity of the rock combined with the mild climate and colours, which brings out the poetry in the hearts of many also to those who are apparently heartless. Our approach to food, the aromas and tastes which are absolutely delicious, yet unusual. We invite you to discover through us the beauty and all the less known aspects of nature and culture of , so we recommend if you are able to plan your trip in Gallura during the months of April, May, September and October, which are the most beautiful periods: nature awakens in a mild climate that allows you to enjoy the sea and the beach without the typical crowds of the high season. The earth is covered with a bright green, fragrant flowers and plants, the sky is clear and blue. In addition to the sea and beaches, we recommend walking, visits to many archaeological sites, festivals and village festivals, mini tours of one or two days. Hiking, archaeology, museums, water sports, horse riding, golf, the many beaches, these are just a few of the activities that await you in our part of the Gallura.

THE NEAREST BEACHES: the Mistral winds), sweeps around and embraces the Tavo- lara. Directions: from our house take the road of the “Spiri- Maria Marina to Santo” up to the main road SS 125, then follow the road Please don’t say to anyone up to Murta Maria and turn at the sign “Porto Istana” you the wonders of this hidden will find the beach after about 2.2 kilometres, this is equip- beach, a step away from Ol- ped with many services: public transport, bar, restaurant, bia. To get there from our beach services, pedal boat hire. house drive along the road of the “Spirito Santo” to the Li Cuncheddi main road 125, then turn Returning from south in the direction to Porto Istana Murta Maria, a charming towards Murta hamlet on the fast growing Maria to a diver- east coast. Marina Maria is sion road on the one of the last coastal right, about two wetlands, besieged by lots, hundred meters and a valuable habitat for before the junc- gulls, crabs, molluscs and cormorants, whose overbearing pre- tion of SS 125, sence is evidenced by the myriad of shells scattered on the incomparable views across the Gulf of , the road beco- white sand. Take the road Via dei Gladioli, just before ente- mes a dirt track, (hopefully this beautiful environment does ring the village. Leave your car in the parking lot and to not alter), and falls on solitary coast, where there are lovely stretch your legs go for a walk toward and along the beach, beaches such as Li Cuncheddi, Cala sa Figu, the beach Sos that is free from houses, from antennas: this is just the fisher- Passizzeddos, Porto Casu, Porto Vitello, and last but not men’s sea. If not afraid to crush shells and crabs circumven- least the view on the Gulf of Olbia. Carrying on ahead you ted the beach walking in water of the pond, transparent but will find the headland of Capo Ceraso. The pink granite warm until you come to small dunes emerging from the calm rocks, the thick scrub and forests of surviving olive trees behind the white of sand. The pond is a microcosm of mari- grant a truly unique panorama. ne life, with the cold currents coming in the turquoise of the sea. This beach, is also a paradise for experts surfers. Tavolara Set in the Porto Istana Gulf of Ol- If you are going to visit Porto Istana be prepared to be daz- bia, in front zled by the incomparable beauty of this beach that appears of Porto suddenly just left the parking lot. This beautiful bay is sur- San Paolo, rounded by the sea, just in front of Tavolara Island. The looking crystal clear from the water gently mainland, slopes down the Tavola- until it rea- ra offers, in ches a hei- its different ght for perspectives, now a pyramid, now a mountain of white rock swimming, walls overlooking the sea. Below sea level there is a very rich while the world which is of particular interest for divers. Accessible by bay, (almost boat from Porto San Paolo, this narrow isthmus called “Spal- always pro- matore di terra” has a beautiful long beach. Also on the island, tected from there are typical bars and restaurants. With its heritage of long coastline on the Tyrrhenian www.turismorurale.org Sea, Budoni boa- sts of beautiful scenery, beautiful from Palau or Cannigione. A real mystical experience that sandy beaches you can have with a truly modest cost which is the ticket surrounded by that usually also includes a spaghetti on board. The small walls of rock. The boat is equipped for specialized tours. closest beach, is only 300 meters away from the centre. A characteristic rocky beach with a beautiful pine forest around, Porto Rotondo the bottom of the sea is very clear alternating between sand, Exclusive, unique, not to be missed, here, He played the rocks, and small rocks near the shoreline. More beaches in kind of accuracy by drawing geometrically a perfect cove Porto Ottiolu, these also have facilities such as parking lots, where the village takes its name. The beauty of this mediter- bars, services, rental of paddleboats and surfing. ranean scrub, is that Lido di Pittulongu the coast of Only 6 km granite Iscia from Olbia, Segada joins on the coa- at Punta Vol- stal road to pe, in a Golfo Aran- powerful ci, it is wor- complex of thwhile to bedrock, visit these from which many small one can enjoy the spectacular panorama of the Costa Sme- white sandy ralda, its sea, its islands. From afternoon to night, Porto Ro- beaches, tondo always offers cultural events and theme nights. which are most popular among the locals. Take beautiful walks at sunset taking in the breathtaking views of the Tavo- lara or even better in the early morning when the sun rises NATURE & ARCHAEOLOGY: behind the big island. Pedres castle and the “Tomb of the Giants” On the road AND ALSO ... between Olbia and Loiri, on the Spiaggia del Principe left, the fort was A truly exclusi- built in medie- ve beach, loca- val times by ju- ted at Romaz- dges of Gallura zino, which is to defend the the favourite of territory, and Prince Karim was the scene of for its extraor- fierce battles between Genoa, Pisa and Aragon. There are dinary beauty, two remaining walls which were not completely destroyed, due to the it stands on a fascinating hill, which dominates the whole striking combi- Gulf and can be reached through a path surrounded by scrub. nation of colours: the clear shallow water combined with A few steps from this hill, is the beautiful megalithic burial pink rocks and the glossiness of the sand composed of grani- site of “Monte‘e s’Abe”, XVIII - XVI century. A.C. te fragments. Basilica of San Simplicio in Olbia Archipelago of It is the most important, artistic and ancient religious mo- Colours, co- nument of the lours, an incredi- Gallura and also ble transparen- one of the most cy, you can defi- noble places re- nitely reach it lating to the first easy thanks to beginnings of the barge trips Christianity in that you can Sardinia, the book just a day Basilica stands before departing in the centre of the city. San Simplicio is the patron of the Diocese of Tem- pio Pausania and the city of Olbia. It was built in three di- stinct periods: the second half of the eleventh century until the twelfth century, where the facade was completed. www.turismorurale.org The Archaeological Museum of Olbia The Archaeo- ship of water. From the courtyard, fully paved, you have logical Mu- access to the well through a scale of seventeen steps. At the seum is loca- excavation pit numerous artefacts were found relating to Nu- ted along the ragic, Punic and Roman times, which are signs of a continu- road leading ity of use almost always linked to pagan rituals. To get there: to the Port, coming from Olbia on the Via dei Lidi, you cross the Indu- just in front of strial Zone, arriving at the roundabout you see the signs the old town. that mark the site. Outside, a lar- ge central pa- tio in which A LITTLE MORE DISTANT IN GALLURA you will find some of the San Pantaleo Roman ships A church, a recently square, a small found, and a number of functional areas such as the Library, shop and a han- the Auditorium and Congress Centre. Upstairs advanced te- dful of chnologies have reproduced ships that were sunken and re- stazzi(rural hou- cently found during the construction of the Tunnel. It is a ses) that once multipurpose structure, mainly devoted to archaeology from formed a “Cus- the Neolithic period for the Judicial Age. sorgia” between forests of oaks Nuraghe Riu Mulinu and cork trees in the granite peaks of Punta Cugnana. Eve- Behind the rything here is a surviving piece of the Gallura far away from Industrial “rustic chic” of the Costa Smeralda. San Pantaleo is the re- area of Ol- fuge for those who want to move away from the mundane, a bia, on the refuge for artists and craftsmen who have original laborato- hill, is an ex- ries, which are open to visitors. traordinary monument Porto Cervo that seems What about the most exclusive locations in ? Everything to defy the and the opposite of all, this is Porto Cervo, fantastic days, law of gravi- society at night, ty. Follow you will find the road Cabu Abbas, the brown-coloured signs will guide here, the most you towards the Nuraghe, park on the side apron and climb fashionable bou- on foot for about a quarter of an hour on the stone track: in tiques of the addition to the ruins you will have a fantastic view over the moment, the city and the Gulf of Olbia. best (and most expensive) Pozzo sacro “Sa Testa” rooms to spend This was pro- your evenings bably built at into the night, walk amongst the chic and be surrounded by the end of the famous people. A trip to the marina is a must, a dream to Bronze Age. see the incredible boats moored there. This building has a large Gallura Magical, enchanted granite in Palau courtyard It is said that in that provides Sardinia there access to a ve- are sites that be- stibule, which cause of their in turn is con- particular ener- nected by a staircase to the “camera tholos” which is very gy carry the in- dominating. The courtyard, accessible through a staircase of dividual to a four steps, is irregularly circular, and is enclosed by a massi- more intimate ve wall along which, there is a seat presumably to accommo- contact within date the people during the sacred ceremonies for the wor- himself because Calangianus life revolves around the large oak tre- es from which cork is ex- www.turismorurale.org tracted for natural insula- tion material, and also the conserved energy that radiates from the earth and the co- raw material is used for smos is still strong and vibrant. One of the most interesting seals, beautiful objects is in the area of San Giorgio in Palau, near a small rural d’art, or even elegant church. Here the energy is really at home. The strange rocks dress for women. Visit the have special therapeutic properties, all to discover! shops and do not miss the oldest oak in Europe! From to , Monti and Around wine- Moon Valley, a travel in paradise ries, to Oschiri Along the road to Capo Testa is the door to a free world. to complete the Cross the isthmus on which lie the two large bays of Levante tour of the wine and Santa Reparata. Leave your car there and you will find and food tasting between the two large smooth stones that mark a narrow timeless “pana- passage. das”. To the fans Be care- of the nectar of ful to Bacchus, Gallu- remem- ra offers an im- ber the pressive wine road through the vineyards, passing the finest forms: wineries of the social Vermentino. Do not miss the Museum those of Modern Wine in Berchidda and also the beautiful church strange of Nostra Signora di Castro, a few kilometres from Oschiri. stones mark the way Gallurese coun- and try par excellen- everything, here, it seems what is not. What seems to be a ce, Luogosanto path loses in anything, you must observe, listen to the wind, retains almost to remember the way, to find the way back. Observe that unaltered tradi- rock on the left, it has a strange shape of ghost and the two tions of this land large cubes of granite are a work of the Roman period. The which is rich in people of Peace and Love live here among caves carved by contrasts. Its the wind. An experience that should not be missed! name derives from the strong religious tradition that has always been and Tempio Pausania and The Sources of Rinaggju by the many places of worship that have been erected in its A happy ge- territory. Take particular attention to the rural church of San ographical Trano dating back to the thirteenth century and the stone location for buildings which are typical of the small city centre. this nice town in Gal- lura: Temple Famous for the is located at intricate story the foot of of “faide” Mount Lim- linked to the bara, im- outlawed mersed in a “Muto di Gal- forest of green oak and olive trees. Noteworthy is the con- lura,” this is pe- trast between the sweetness of the surrounding and the au- rhaps the coun- sterity of the old granite building in the historical centre. try that best Many interesting monuments, churches, buildings of Judi- preserves the traditions and craft of the area, as in the cial era, to be discovered walking in the lanes. Do not miss a polyphonic song and in the texture of carpets. It is said that visit to the sources Rinagghju, famous for its therapeutic the art of carpet in Aggius was imported from a turkish sla- properties of water, and why not, take a relaxing session at ve, hence the designs and colors that distinguish the Ara- the Spa itself. These spring waters, have been known since bian manufacturing of these carpets that were originally used ancient times for their therapeutic properties. The Spa can like saddlebags. Visit the shops using wooden frames and be easily reached from the old town with a pleasant walk colours strictly from plants to produce the valuable achieve- along the road which runs alongside the beautiful pine fo- ments of above. rest of San Lorenzo. AND NOW... A LITTLE HISTORY

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In the first years of ‘900, there were, in Gallura, more than six thousand stazzi, scattered in the countryside, and these farms were frequently visited by roving, “li Stragni”, which in Stazzi still found shelter and warm food for many days and returned the hospitality to the hosts doing small jobs, or simply telling stories of other places around the hearth. From the middle of 1900 people began to move to the cities and industries of the italian peninsula: the Gallura country- side was abandoned and the Stazzi remained closed for a long time. Ours was saved and living as we still leave here. Stazzo Bonacossa was built at the end of the 1600 century The Stazzo is a typical building of the Gallura countryside, and inhabited by the same family, although restored and surrounded by Tanche (land), closed by a stone wall, the expanded, it still however, retains the spirit of the true Gal- Stazzo was in fact a completely self-sufficient farmhouse: lura, its secrets, joys and sorrows of those who lived there. every activity was to maintain the family, nothing was left Antonella Bo- to chance, it produced everything needed to live. nacossa and her The term stazzo derives from the Latin “Statio, that is a family continue place where you can stop, stay; to live there a place, that presupposes the with a big pas- previous long and tiring jour- sion for the tra- neys in search of good pasture ditions and res- for animals. We find this kind pect in the past. of stable accommodation in People “la jenti” Gallura, from about 1500, it Bonacossa ap- appears at the end of the feu- peared in Sardinia at the end of 1600, we found written dal period and the feud cer- traces by the Bishop’s Curia of Tempio, from which the Loi- tainly inspired it in work and ri area depended at that time. The births and deaths of all management of resources. this area were also recorded in Tempio until the middle of It was frequently built on a last century, when even small municipalities acquired the hill, to dominate the land, and Registry. on the front was well cared “lu Bonacossa came with high probability from Corsica, as many Pastrucciali” (the square), pla- of the families in Gallura did, probably driven by political or ce of arrival, departure and storage for horses. The wall out- social issues. Bonacossa settled in the Gallura buying up the side the Stazzo was organized for the temporary stationing land over the centuries that is currently held. They were of the horses, with a long granite bench above which were always breeders of wild cattle, an activity that needed a lot some iron rings to tie the horse in waiting. A little further of land for pastures. along was a courtyard, with the garden for vegetables. Stazzo Bonacossa was the first home of the family and still There were usually many plants of almond, peach, fig trees, retains all characteristics of the original Stazzo Gallurese, whose fruits were dried and used food. Nearby there was the elongated struc- generally a well ture with local gra- to draw the wa- nite in the three- ter. There was room classic, the also the vineyard complicated system and garden. of juniper original There was also a beams, the old room called “Ca- wood-burning oven, masinu”, to keep built with dry clay the cheese and bricks, the bench for wine. the horses, and the In some cases, the same room was used to prepare cheese niches for the pre- and butter: there was a fire in the middle of the room for servation of food. this. In some stazzi, like ours, are still visible traces of this The Bonacossa operation: the old wooden beams of juniper are blackened always pass the na- by smoke during the years of fire burning. The women of mes of its firstborn the family took care of the children, the vegetable and poul- sons, so that Pietro try, the economic management of the house, the men working to Raimondo to Pie- to the most demanding tasks. tro till nowadays.