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Jack Dykinga NIKON D5, 1/4000 SEC, F/9, ISO 3200, 1200 MM LENS Grand Canyon 38 HATAAŁII National Park Once, there were many spiritual leaders on the Navajo 2019 Navajo Nation March Nation, but those numbers have dwindled. One of the survivors is an elder named Wally Brown, and he’s 2 EDITOR’S LETTER determined to preserve the heritage of his people. 3 CONTRIBUTORS By Kelly Vaughn Photographs by Mylo Fowler Superstition Mountains 4 LETTERS PHOENIX 44 DÍÍ HAA’ANOOCHÍNÍGÍÍ DA’ATŁ’Ó 5 THE JOURNAL An Essay by Danielle Geller Tucson People, places and things from around the state, Bisbee including Sonoran Desert toads, which look like dis- Sonoita tant cousins of Jabba the Hutt; Black Sphinx dates, 48 POINTS OF INTEREST IN THIS ISSUE the only type of date believed to have originated in An Essay by Kelly Vaughn Arizona; and Tucson’s Baja Café. Photographs by Caitlin O’Hara 18 DINÉ 52 SCENIC DRIVE Gardner Canyon Road: On some level, every road A story originally published in the June 1941 issue around Sonoita is scenic, but this drive, which passes of Arizona Highways. through some of the state’s most beautiful grasslands, By Frances Sanita is especially so. Photographs by Simeon Schwemberger By Noah Austin 26 NAHASDZÁÁN Photographs by Norma Jean Gargasz “There isn’t a mile of Navajoland that does not have HIKE OF THE MONTH much to offer the admirer of beauty and grandeur, but 54 nothing in all that vast, lonely expanse is as interesting Hieroglyphic Trail: The name is wrong, but everything or as picturesque as the people themselves.” Those else about this hike in the Superstition Mountains is are the words of Editor Raymond Carlson, from our right, especially in the spring, when the wildflowers August 1950 issue. Seventy years later, his words still add a splash of color. ring true. The Navajo people are fascinating, ambitious By Robert Stieve and beautiful, and the landscape is an endless series Photographs by Joel Hazelton of scenic wonders. A Portfolio Edited by Jeff Kida 56 WHERE IS THIS? GET MORE ONLINE www.arizonahighways.com /azhighways @arizonahighways An American coot glides across the water’s surface at Cibola National Wildlife Refuge, along the Colorado River north of Yuma. Jack Dykinga NIKON D5, 1/4000 SEC, F/9, ISO 3200, 1200 MM LENS FRONT COVER: Hunts Mesa offers a striking view of Monument Valley, one of the Navajo Nation’s best-known destinations. Suzanne Mathia CANON EOS 5D MARK II, 1/250 SEC, F/9, ISO 1000, 100 MM LENS BACK COVER: Mexican goldpoppies display their colorful blooms. Paul Gill CANON EOS 5D MARK II, 1/2 SEC, F/22, ISO 100, 24 MM LENS 2 OCTOBER 2015 www.arizonahighways.com 1 scenic DRIVE MARBLE VIEWPOINT Just about every road on the Kaibab Plateau qualifies as a scenic drive, including this route, which leads to one of the most beautiful panoramas in Northern Arizona. BY NOAH AUSTIN Eight miles into the drive, you’ll turn left onto Forest Road 219 and head north. Thick stands of aspens line both sides of this road, which is narrower than the previous two. Even up here, you’ll be thankful for the shade the aspen canopy provides on a summer afternoon. The road gets more marked as Forest Road 219AB. Huh. I won- it’s windy, maybe a little cold. So put on rutted around Mile 10, so proceed care- der where that leads. a jacket. And make sure you check the fully until Mile 12.5, when you’ll arrive After a quarter-mile drive through pockets. at a clearing, on the left, with a sign that some ponderosas, you’ll find out: a huge reads, “Marble Viewpoint.” clearing, jutting from the plateau, that SCENIC Hmmm, you’ll think. This is … nice. And offers seemingly limitless views. Among DRIVES of Arizona’s ADDITIONAL READING: Best Back it is nice — there’s a good view of a them are the Saddle Mountain Wil- 40 Roads For more adventure, pick up a copy of our book Arizona pine-covered ridge to the west. But not derness just below the viewpoint, the Highways Scenic Drives, which much else. This is it, right? There’s a sign and unmistakable profile of Marble Canyon features 40 of the state’s most beautiful back roads. To order, everything. And then, just northeast of to the east and the Vermilion Cliffs to visit www.shoparizonahighways Edited by Robert Stieve the clearing, you’ll see a small road that’s the north. You’ll feel very lucky. And, if and Kelly Vaughn Kramer .com/books. TOUR GUIDE Note: Mileages are approximate. ave you ever put on a jacket for (State Route 67), which leads to the National Forest and part of Grand Can- LENGTH: 12.8 miles one way (from North Rim Parkway) the first time in months and Grand Canyon’s North Rim. From the yon National Park. Thankfully, the fire DIRECTIONS: From Jacob Lake, go south on the North H found a dollar in the pocket? Have highway, head east on Forest Road 611, doesn’t appear to have made it to FR 610, Rim Parkway (State Route 67) for 26.3 miles to For- you ever done that, then reached into the which is near DeMotte Campground and which runs south before turning east and est Road 611. Turn left (east) onto FR 611 and continue 1.3 miles to Forest Road 610. Turn right onto FR 610 and other pocket and found 20 dollars? If so, Kaibab Lodge. After crossing a small skirting the park’s northern boundary. At continue 6.7 miles to Forest Road 219. Turn left onto you’re pretty lucky. And you also have bridge, the road turns to gravel as it Mile 6.3, you’ll pass through two grassy FR 219 and continue 4.5 miles to Forest Road 219AB. Turn right onto FR 219AB and continue 0.3 miles to some idea of what the drive to Marble climbs into a forest of tall ponderosa meadows ringed by aspens and pondero- Marble Viewpoint. Viewpoint, on the Kaibab Plateau, feels pines. The road is mostly in excellent sas. They’re good places to spot wild VEHICLE REQUIREMENTS: A high-clearance vehicle is like. At the end of this gorgeous drive, condition, but a high-clearance vehicle is turkeys or mule deer, and if you stop for recommended. you’ll reach a nice vista that you’ll think advisable for the rough patches. The same a picnic lunch, don’t be surprised if a WARNING: Back-road travel can be hazardous, so be aware of weather and road conditions. Carry plenty of is the destination. And then you’ll go a is true of Forest Road 610, onto which Steller’s jay tries to steal a bite. water. Don’t travel alone, and let someone know where little farther, and … wow. you’ll turn right after 1.3 miles. you are going and when you plan to return. But this 12.8-mile journey offers plenty You’ll start to see evidence of for- ABOVE: Marble Viewpoint offers an expansive view INFORMATION: North Kaibab Ranger District, 928- of beauty before that — starting at est thinning — this road was used as that includes Marble Canyon and distant Navajo 643-7395 or www.fs.usda.gov/kaibab Mountain. Jack Dykinga Travelers in Arizona can visit www.az511.gov or dial DeMotte Park, one of several picturesque a firebreak during the 2016 Fuller Fire, OPPOSITE PAGE: State Route 67 winds through 511 to get infor ma tion on road closures, construc tion, meadows along the North Rim Parkway which scorched a section of the Kaibab DeMotte Park, where the drive begins. Tom Bean delays, weather and more. 52 JUNE 2019 MAP BY KEVIN KIBSEY Xwww.arizonahighways.com 53 J photography PHOTO WORKSHOP Cibecue Falls and Salt River Canyon October 10-13, Globe Secluded waterfalls, hidden hoodoos and other rarely seen sights are on display at this workshop, which centers on one of Arizona’s most dramatic canyons and most important waterways. It’s led by frequent Arizona Highways contributor Shane McDermott. Information: 888-790-7042 or www.ahps.org birds’ yellow heads. Was that some- thing you did intentionally? JD: Yes. Basically, I’m slightly underex- posing the overall image, then letting the strobe brighten up the targets, giving me that effect of a deep blue background. I shot this at an ISO of 2500, and at a high ISO like that, you tend to get a lot of noise, but by making a large image and then downsizing it, you can eliminate most of the noise. JK: What draws you to photographing Yellow-headed blackbirds take wildlife? flight from the Tucson area. JD: Like many subjects, it’s ephemeral. This flock of blackbirds did not return the following year, because the farmers in JK: How did this shot come together? capture them. When you’re shooting for a slow shutter speed, for a lens of this focal shots, I chose not to use the strobe and that area changed their crops from corn to JD: I photographed these yellow-headed magazine or a newspaper, as I have in my length, to shoot motion. I decided to use a blurred the birds’ flight, but this time, I cotton. The birds had been feeding on the Q&A: blackbirds in the Tucson area. I had heard career, you’re telling a story, so it’s good to Nikon strobe with a flash extender called wanted to try something a little different corn stover, so they didn’t come back. they were “erupting” from this one area, have a deep mix of imagery that reflects a Better Beamer.
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