arizonahighways.com DECEMBER 2003 three ways to visit the grand canyon DECEMBER 2003 page 44 4 SPECIAL SECTION The Grand Canyon 56 GENE PERRET’S WIT STOP Arizona’s centerpiece natural wonder is the Two brothers exchange Christmas gifts, but neither has extraordinary chasm in the state’s northwest quadrant, a clue who sent what to whom. where 4 million-plus visitors go each year for incomparable panoramas and outdoor experiences. This 53 HUMOR month, Arizona Highways examines the Canyon from the south, the complex internal floor and the north. 2 LETTERS AND E-MAIL 50 DESTINATION Holy Trinity Monastery 8 South Rim At Holy Trinity, a Benedictine monastery in Most visitors head to this sprawling southeastern Arizona, visitors find silence, solitude escarpment for the dramatic views from a and a sense of peace. number of ideal and accessible observation points. 3 ALONG THE WAY The ringing and magic of silver bells at Christmastime linger on for those who want to hear. 20 The Challenge of 54 HIKE OF THE MONTH Interior Route-finding Brittlebush Trail Hikers on the boulder-strewn route in the Sonoran Deep in the tough gorges, the Redwall Desert National Monument south of Phoenix find a limestone formations pose daunting tests surprisingly remote landscape. to anyone who seeks a path through them. North Rim 32 [THIS PAGE] The last rays of the This out-of-the-way high plateau and setting sun envelop a lone hiker spectacular alpine environment create on a hazy day at Yaki Point in North Rim GRAND CANYON a haven for people and wildlife. Grand Canyon National Park. NATIONAL PARK GEORGE H.H. HUEY Colorado River South Rim [FRONT COVER] Clinging to the CITIES & TOWNS edge of the Grand Canyon at WILLIAMS Mohave Point, a snow-covered 44 SNOWFLAKE juniper frames a timeless view PHOENIX Christmas, Snowflake-style of light and landscape. See story, page 4. The aptly named town in eastern Arizona has its own [BACK COVER] Crimson Sonoran Desert special way of being home for the holidays. monkeyflowers line Royal Arch National Monument TUCSON Creek as it tumbles through POINTS OF Elves Chasm in the Canyon. INTEREST FEATURED IN ST.DAVID BOTH BY LARRY ULRICH THIS ISSUE and e-mail along the DECEMBER 2003 VOL. 79, NO. 12 Publisher WIN HOLDEN by CARRIE M. MINER Editor ROBERT J. EARLY Senior Editor BETH DEVENY way Managing Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN Research Editor MARY PRATT Editorial Administrator CONNIE BOCH Administrative Assistant NIKKI KIMBEL Great Humor Column outback. And, as this letter demonstrates, a Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER When I could finally see through the tears of special kind of camaraderie develops among the Photography Editor RICHARD MAACK laughter after reading about Gene Perret’s desire to participants. Art Director MARY WINKELMAN VELGOS I REMEMBER THE COLD CHRISTMAS EVES OF smocks and billowy white hats ambled down be a bull rider (“Wit Stop,” July ’03), I decided I Deputy Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY The SILVER BELLS my childhood, when I would stay awake as long the aisle serving chocolate-chip cookies the size Deputy Art Director BILLIE JO BISHOP must tell you how much Mrs. Hellwig and I enjoy Old West Tales as I could, huddled under a mountain of of plates and “hot cocoa as thick and rich as Art Assistant PAULY HELLER of Christmas his column in every issue. I wanted to let you know that I really enjoyed Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY blankets, waiting to hear the magical, sweet melted chocolate bars,” as Van Allsburg writes. LOUIS HEllWIG, Shoreline, WA the bonus section titled “True Tales of the Arizona Highways Books STILL RING sound of silver sleigh bells and the thud of A lady in green read The Polar Express. Beginning next month, “Gene Perret’s Wit Stop” Frontier West,” (July ’03). Not only are the stories WitWorks® Books reindeer hooves crunching in the snow on Thirty minutes out of the depot, the train Editor BOB ALBANO will move to our revitalized Web site at great, but the reference to different Arizona Associate Editor EVELYN HOWELL for Those the roof. arrived at the North Pole. Children wiped the arizonahighways.com. Click on “Discover Arizona.” locations is helpful. For example, I’ve traveled Associate Editor PK PERKIN MCMAHON Who Want Now I have children of my own, but mist from the windows and stared at the bright Gene’s humor column is so popular we think it will near the Canyon Diablo train robbers’ routes, and Production Director CINDY MACKEY Christmas no longer seems like it did when I lights of the elfin city. Santa stood in his sleigh Production Coordinator KIM ENSENBERGER help build a following on the Internet. it was interesting to read about Buckey O’Neill’s Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON to Hear was a child, growing up in the crisp Colorado harnessed to the most famous reindeer in relentless pursuits. Webmaster VICKY SNOW winters. The song “White Christmas” easily history and waved merrily as the train slowed Date Shake Founder As usual, the many hiking and travel articles Marketing Director applies to holidays spent in to pick him up. I know who originated “The World Famous provided increased insight about where to go PATRICIA POWERS-ZERMEÑO the Sonoran Desert, As the train turned around and headed back Date Shake” (“Taking the Off-ramp,” July ’03). in Arizona. So, I do plan to visit the Hubbell Circulation Director HOLLY CARNAHAN dreaming of snows I to the depot, Santa walked down the aisle of It was my father, Russell Nicoll. Perhaps you Trading Post and Kendrick Mountain Trail on Finance Director ROBERT M. STEELE used to know. So for a each car and handed out silver sleigh bells to had stopped by the Valerie Jean Date Shop at another visit. Fulfillment Director VALERIE J. BECKETT Christmas surprise, I the children. When Santa reached my boys, some time, depending on your age. The shop is THOMAS M. MURRAY, Seattle, WA Information Technology Manager bundled up my 7-year- they threw their arms around the jolly fellow no longer open, and the last time I drove by I CINDY BORMANIS old twin boys, and pressed their faces against his red coat. felt sad. I just want to say, your July 2003 issue was one of FOR CUSTOMER INQUIRIES Blake and Hayden, “I love you, Santa,” Blake said, his eyes OR TO ORDER BY PHONE: My dad opened the shop in 1929 and gave it my your best. I really enjoyed the “True Tales of the Call toll-free: (800) 543-5432 and we headed shining from the magic of it all. name. I don’t remember the year that he started Frontier West.” In the Phoenix area or outside the U.S., INC. PHOTOGRAPHIC, CARLTONS’ north for a little Santa patted their heads and with a big smile Call (602) 712-2000 with the date milkshake, but it was before World JAN EDGERTON, Duncan Or visit us online at: Christmas magic. handed them each their very own silver bells. War II. arizonahighways.com As we neared the When Santa had left our car, the lady in Gen. George Patton’s men loved to stop for date Congrats! Hooray! Outstanding! Thank you for the For Corporate or Trade Sales: mountain town of Williams and a green started singing Christmas carols, leading Sales Manager HELEN THOMPSON CONNER milkshakes when they were training on tank Old West stories. These stories are what keeps the Call (602) 712-2050 magical trip on the Polar Express, hosted by with “Jingle Bells.” She leaned toward Hayden maneuvers nearby in the desert. magazine in my hands for hours on end. When I the Grand Canyon Railway, we listened to a and gave him the microphone, which he took E-MAIL “LETTERS TO THE EDITOR”: VALERIE JEAN SMART, Tucson first get my issue, I look through it to see the [email protected] taped version of The Polar Express, written and with glee, leading all of the car’s passengers in beautiful photography. Then later, I look for the Regular Mail: illustrated by Chris Van Allsburg and recorded song with the accompaniment of the ringing Grand Canyon Trip stories that interest me. Editor by actor Liam Neeson. This award-winning sleigh bells. 2039 W. Lewis Ave. I really enjoyed reading Gary Ladd’s The Old West stories about Arizona are the best Phoenix, AZ 85009 storybook chronicles a boy’s trip on an When we returned to the depot, Blake and backpacking adventure (“Dancing With I’ve seen for a while. Governor Janet Napolitano enchanted train ride to the North Pole, where he Hayden grasped their bells in their gloved fists, Lightning on Mighty Vishnu Temple,” July ’03). DENNIS GARVER, Columbus, OH Director, Department of Transportation receives the first gift of Christmas — a silver taking care not to lose the bells the way the boy Victor M. Mendez In his story, six people made this trip. But sleigh bell cut from one of the reindeer’s in the book had lost his. actually a few others tagged along in a less- I thoroughly enjoyed reading about Mickey Free ARIZONA TRANSPORTATION BOARD Chairman Ingo Radicke, Globe harnesses. We listened to the adventure as we “Lucky are the children who know there is physical way back in our hometowns throughout and the other stories about the Old West. Vice Chairman Bill Jeffers, Holbrook drove northward and the desert landscape gave a jolly fat man in a red suit who pilots a flying Members Dallas “Rusty” Gant, Wickenburg the United States. Readers of the magazine really appreciate stories Richard “Dick” Hileman, Lake Havasu City way to towering pine trees and snowy fields.