Roger Clyne’s Where to Sleep Meet Arizona’s Remembering Little Secret Under the Stars Chile King the O.K. Corral

OCTOBER 2008

Great Places 15 to Experience Fall Color Nature Walks + Hikes + Scenic Drives

PLUS: Step-by-Step Instructions for Exploring Bisbee AND: How to Fight Breast Cancer With a Bottle of Chardonnay contents october 2008 Features 38 34 26 14 on line Arizona. Arizona’s ghosts come out in full force force full in out come ghosts Arizona’s Territorial park State where Park, Prison calendar ofcalendar events. rangers give haunted tours. Learn all about about all Learn tours. haunted give rangers the infamous prison at arizonahighways.com. infamous prison the WEEKEND GETAWAY Tag along as mountain GETAWAY mountain as TagWEEKEND along DISCOVER DISCOVER in October, especially in places like Yuma Yuma like places in especially October, in bikers tour the ghost towns of Southeastern Southeastern of towns ghost the tour bikers chile used in seeds American agriculture. green the of percent 90 supplies Ed Turns out, hurt. of a world in be would Mexico New Tucson, of southeast fields chile his and Curry Ed for weren’t it if is, thing The so. rightfully And peppers. chile to comes it when attention the of most gets Mexico New city. queen Arizona’s Southern appreciate way to only the That’s run. don’t Walk, foot. on explored best it’s why is which treasures, hidden of full It’s that. like is Bisbee disc. flying famous the of made town in art of piece there’s probably a look hard enough, you if and Frisbee, with rhymes Bisbee occasion. the to rose many McDonald amenities. Nevertheless, Robert aren’t there and dusty it’s hot, It’s difficult. more alittle is Nation Navajo the on dunes sand shoot to line up for those assignments. Finding somebody road in the Escudilla Mountains. Photographers aback along or Peaks Francisco San the in leaves fall shoot to aphotographer ask to thing one It’s drive. ascenic or hike a hard-core walk, anature for looking you’re —whether them see to ways several are there and gorgeous, are leaves The latter. the We suggest Arizona. explore and asweatshirt on throw could you or England, New to head and obvious the do could you fridge, your on them hang and magazine this of pages the out tear You color. fall could enjoy to ways several are There WALKER • PHOTOGRAPHS BY DON B. & RYAN B. STEVENSON &RYAN B. B. DON BY •PHOTOGRAPHS WALKER It’s There Down Chile Walk Way This Photography Sandscape Autumn Arizona in

arizonahighways.com ARIZONA Plan a trip with our our with atrip Plan ARIZONA BY ROBERT M ROBERT BY BY GREGORY M GREGORY BY C BY ROBERT STIEVE ROBERT BY DONALD BY KATHLEEN C NAMEE Photographic Prints Available Prints Photographic Departments arizonahighwaysprints.com. visit or 866-962-1191 call To order, captions. in designated as purchase, for available are n

46 46 48 44 5 4 3 2 Prints of some photographs in this issue issue this in photographs some of Prints TAKING LEAVE created by autumn rains at Workman Workman at rains autumn by created Creek in the Tonto National Forest. Forest. National Tonto the in Creek flow down rocky steps in a minicascade minicascade in a steps rocky down flow slopes of the San Francisco Peaks. pens mingle with ponderosa pines on the the on pines ponderosa with mingle pens Golden as COVERS BACK AND FRONT Photograph by George Stocking George by Photograph Photograph by Dean Hueber Dean by Photograph HIKE OF THE MONTH THE OF HIKE hit this trail on the North Rim. North the on trail this hit to awhile in person first the be likely,solitude? than More you’ll for Looking Canyon: Jacob in the Escudilla Wilderness. meadow largest the Flat, Terry is highlight the but drive, this on seen be can wolves even and bears Elk, Loop: Flat Terry getaway. secret Clyne’s Roger Zealand Rack of Lamb, and New get to Cliffs Vermilion the at place only the space, outer cancer, a B&B with views of breast fight help to wine selling who’s woman a Scottsdale including state, the around People, places and things from WHERE ISTHIS? ADVENTURE ROAD BACK THE JOURNAL TOLETTERS THE EDITOR CONTRIBUTORS EDITOR’S LETTER Jacob Canyon Vermilion Cliffs • Pointsofinterest inthisissue PHOENIX Tombstone Bigtooth maple leaves Escudilla Wilderness Escudilla Benson Navajo Indian Indian Navajo Reservation Pearce Bisbee -

CONTRIBUTORS If you think sand dunes are nothing but … well, piles of sand, check out this month’s portfolio. OCTOBER 2008 VOL. 84, NO. 10 See page 26. 800-543-5432 arizonahighways.com

Publisher WIN HOLDEN Editor ROBERT STIEVE Senior Editor RANDY SUMMERLIN Managing Editor SALLY BENFORD Editorial Administrator NIKKI KIMBEL Director of Photography PETER ENSENBERGER Photography Editor JEFF KIDA Art Director BARBARA GLYNN DENNEY Deputy Art Director SONDA ANDERSSON PAPPAN COLLEEN MINIUK-SPERRY STEPHEN & KAREN STROM Art Assistant DIANA BENZEL-RICE Shoot first, eat entrees later. That was Colleen Shooting Walk This Way (page 34) was a breeze Map Designer KEVIN KIBSEY editor’s letter Miniuk-Sperry’s M.O. for photographing, writ- for the husband-and-wife team of Stephen and Production Director MICHAEL BIANCHI Promotions Art Director RONDA JOHNSON ing about, and tasting the gourmet fare at Cliff Karen Strom. The former astronomers have Webmaster VICTORIA J. SNOW THE FIRST ALBUM Dwellers Restaurant (page 7), an eatery be- worked together for 48 years. Stephen says the Director of Sales & Marketing KELLY MERO I ever owned was neath the Vermilion Cliffs. Not surprisingly, the photography partnership works because they Circulation Director NICOLE BOWMAN Sweet Baby James by experience made her want to focus on more have different styles. “We point our cameras Finance Director BOB ALLEN James Taylor. I was 7 food stories in the future. Writing about one of 180 degrees away from each other. Her images Information Technology CINDY BORMANIS years old, the record her favorite restaurants had special meaning for tend to be reconstructed views of the external JEFF KIDA by Robert Stieve was vinyl, and I Corporate or Trade Sales 602-712-2019 Miniuk-Sperry. “The people there are so giving world. Mine tend to be highly emotional im- played it at least a thousand times on Letters to the Editor [email protected] and friendly,” she says. “[Doing this story] was pressions.” Plus, Stephen claims he inherited a 2039 W. Lewis Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85009 my parents’ stereo, which was just slightly ROBERT MCDONALD my way of giving back to them.” The Midwest “high patience level” from his Scandinavian roots, smaller than the living room sofa. I loved that Governor native’s photography has appeared in Golf while Karen says she inherited “the diplomacy album, and no doubt thought I’d have it forever, but somewhere Trail, the Gobbler Point Trail … they’re all impressive. And so is JANET NAPOLITANO Illustrated, Atlanta Golf, Arizona Highways and of the Swiss.” Their work has been featured in Director, Department of Transportation along the line, it disappeared. Nevertheless, I still listen to J.T., Ed Curry, who can’t even think about hiking in October. VICTOR M. MENDEZ numerous commercial outlets. This is her first numerous shows, and Stephen’s photography especially this time of year. That’s because October is harvest time in the chile business, writing assignment for Arizona Highways. has appeared in Arizona Highways. Arizona Transportation Board Something in the Way She Moves and Sweet Potato Pie are my and when it comes to chiles, Ed is king. Although he grows some Chairman S.L. Schorr favorites, but Walking Man — “the frost is on the pumpkin, and chiles for eating, his focus is producing seeds, and he’s prolific. Vice Chairman Delbert Householder Members Robert M. Montoya, Felipe Andres Zubia, the hay is in the barn” — was written for October. It’s a song According to a study by the University of Arizona, Ed’s company William J. Feldmeier, about the coming of winter and the fall of the year. This month’s supplies almost all of the seeds for the green chile business in Barbara Ann “Bobbie” Lundstrom, Victor M. Flores cover story follows the same theme. the United States. “We’re about 90 percent,” he says. Even New For those of you in Massachusetts, Vermont and New Mexico, which is renowned for its chiles, gets most of its seeds International Regional Magazine Association 2006, 2005, 2004, 2002, 2001 Magazine of the Year Hampshire, all you have to do is look out the kitchen window to from Ed. In It’s Chile Down There, you’ll learn more about Ed get a spectacular dose of fall color. Here in Arizona, it takes a lit- Curry and Southern Arizona’s impressive chile industry. Western Publications Association 2006, 2004, 2002, 2001 Best Travel & In-transit Magazine tle more effort, but it’s worth it. Indeed, the colors in this neck of Not far from Ed’s farm is Bisbee. Unlike Ed, Bisbee isn’t much the woods are every bit as impressive as those in New England. of a secret. The Copper Queen Hotel, Brewery Gulch, the mine Of course, you have to know how to find them, and that’s where that put the town on the map … they’ve all been well-publicized. Arizona Highways® (ISSN 0004-1521) is published monthly by the Arizona Department of Transportation. Subscription price: $24 a we come in. Especially in this magazine. Still, there’s more to this historic year in the U.S., $44 outside the U.S. Single copy: $3.99 U.S. Send subscription cor­respon­dence and change of address information In all, we’ll tell you about 15 places to see aspens, oaks, city than the landmarks. In fact, beyond the obvious, it’s full of to Arizona High­ways, P.O. Box 653, Mount Morris, IL 61054-0653. ROBERT MCDONALD JO BAEZA Periodical postage paid at Phoenix, AZ, and at additional mailing maples and more. Our story touches all four corners of the state, secrets, and the best way to discover them is on foot. office. CANADA POST INTERNATIONAL PUBLICATIONS MAIL More than a decade ago, photographer Robert After 45 years in the White Mountains, writer PRODUCT (CANA­DIAN DISTRIBUTION) SALES AGREEMENT and is divided into three categories: nature walks, hard-core With that in mind, we sent writer Gregory McNamee on a NO. 41220511. SEND RETURNS TO QUEBECOR WORLD, P.O. BOX McDonald noticed a series of spectacular sand Jo Baeza still can’t get enough of the region. hikes and scenic drives. Garland Prairie Road near Williams is walking tour of Bisbee. As he writes in Walk This Way: “Unlike 875, WINDSOR, ON N9A 6P2. POST­MASTER: Send address changes to Arizona Highway­ s, P.O. Box 653, Mount Morris, IL dunes while on a trip to Hunt’s Mesa in North- “What can I say? It’s home,” she says. “I love the among the latter. It’s one of the best road trips in Arizona, and, the newer, more spread-out cities in Arizona, Bisbee is hemmed 61054-0653. Copy­right © 2008 by the Ari­zona Department of Transpor­­ tation.­­ Reproduc­ tion­ in whole or in part without­­ permis- ern Arizona. But the light wasn’t quite right. So mountains. The people are open and friendly. like all of the drives in this issue, it can be done in a Honda in by rugged mountains and steep canyons that confine it to a sion is prohibited. The magazine does not accept and is not he returned years later, and the result is this They take care of each other.” In fact, it’s the Accord. This drive, which runs parallel to an overland route walkable scale. Thanks to geography, the heart of Bisbee can be responsible for un­solicited ma­ter­ials. month’s portfolio (page 26). Sand dunes are people who motivate her to write. She’s retired once used by Indians, trappers and explorers, includes a detour covered in a pleasant hour.” Produced in the USA “nature’s sculpture,” McDonald says. “Graceful five times from her reporting job at the White to White Horse Lake, where the highlight is a dense stand of And you never know what you might find along the way. lines, pleasing geometric shapes, hyperbolas, Mountain Independent, but keeps returning. quaking aspens. It’s beautiful. There are several unique restaurants, gift shops and the One and catenary curves like [those] on a suspension “It’s my way of keeping in touch with the com- The same is true of the nature trails, especially the Barbershop Book Bookstore — literally, it carries only one book. There are highways on tv bridge.” The 71-year-old Cottonwood native munity,” Baeza says. For this month’s Back Road Trail. This easy stroll, which is located on the Mogollon Rim other bookstores, too, as well as a few antiques outlets that draw has spent his life appreciating the Southwest’s Adventure (page 44), she explored new ground north of Strawberry, meanders through a stretch of open for- collectors from all over the country. As you’ll see in our story, For more coverage of the Grand Canyon State, check out Arizona Highways Television, an Emmy- natural wonders, having worked 32 years with while driving the Terry Flat Loop. “It was a nice ests and shallow canyons, all of which are saturated with the Bisbee is the place to go for hidden treasures. Or, better yet, lost award winning show hosted by Robin Sewell. For the Forest Service. His work has also been day,” she says of her trip. “One of a thousand reds and yellows of autumn. It’s an effortless way to see fall color. treasures, like Sweet Baby James by James Taylor. broadcast times, visit arizonahighways.com and click the Arizona Highways Television icon at the bottom published in Audubon calendars. I’ve had in the White Mountains.” If you prefer a little more exercise on your date with Mother — Robert Stieve of our home page. Nature, we have that, too. The Kachina Trail, the Sterling Pass [email protected]

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  Journalthe PEOPLE DINING LODGING PHOTOGRAPHY HISTORY NATURE THINGS TO DO Back on Track I received my June issue of Arizona Highways today and was surprised. Over the past two years, I’d been disappointed in the turn the magazine had taken. After seeing the June letters issue, I have to say that I’m once again a fan of the magazine. The content is much better, with more articles. There are still a few things that I miss from the old issues — the humor and jokes (corny, but fun) — but I’m glad you brought back the map of the places you showcase in the issue. Thanks for bringing back much of what has made Arizona Highways a favorite of so many people over the years. Melissa C. Hawkins, Phoenix

arizonahighways.com We Bagged the Bags defying drop-offs and class-three climbs. keeping people’s dreams alive. @ I was pleasantly surprised today when Fortunately, on the initial drop there’s Ken Shapiro, Oviedo, Florida my Arizona Highways arrived without the a large boulder of Toroweap Formation editor plastic cover [used for shipping the that might slow your uncontrolled de- Speaks Volumes magazine]. Congratulations! I support scent. Once at the bottom, you breathe a Several years ago, Mr. Bose, an inventor your efforts to go “green” in any way sigh of relief until you realize you’ll even- (his family invented Bose speakers), you can. tually have to climb back up. You then came to my elementary school as a Don Bobo, Scottsdale make a leisurely 5-mile stroll through volunteer to help students with math. He ledge-and-drop terrain, until you find had a copy of Arizona Highways with I love your magazine, and I’m glad you yourself overlooking the Colorado River, him, and I mentioned how I liked to use got rid of the plastic bag — it was standing on top of the Redwall. A minor the magazine’s articles and striking annoying. Also, I loved the story on unmentioned point is the requirement photos when teaching my ESL (English Sandra Day O’Connor. Now, how about a that you descend the Redwall. Hint: A as a second language) students. He then nice story on another of your famous rope is a plus. Despite all of that, South started bringing me the magazines after residents, Stevie Nicks? Canyon really is a beautiful hike — if he read them. Mr. Bose no longer Joy F. Hurt, Blackstone, Virginia you survive. volunteers at our school, but every Mike & Megan Powers, Phoenix month I look forward to finding a copy Thanks for getting rid of your plastic of Arizona Highways in my school wrapper. I love it. Requiem for a Dream mailbox. Linda Cline, Monroe, Washington My father passed away last year, and Sandra Risner, while looking through his things, I saw Cambridge Elementary, Horse With Slippery Slope his subscriptions for the last 40 years to Concord, California We were surprised to see South Canyon Arizona Highways. He grew up in New No Name Like a scene from an epic as one of your hikes of the month [April Jersey and dreamed of living in Arizona. Faux Pauw film, Kelly Vallo gazes into 2008]. Having survived this hike, we feel It was his idea for me to attend ASU in In your May issue, in the article Heeeere’s the sunset from the wind- that the opinion of mere mortals is nec- 1978, and in 1994, he finally got his wish Johnny, I see a spelling error that many whipped sand dunes essary. For example, the author speaks and moved there. I can see now how Hoosiers might not appreciate. The northwest of Chinle, on of these things called “trails,” which we Arizona Highways kept his dream of correct spelling of the university located the Navajo Nation. The did not encounter on this hike. We did, moving there alive with the beautiful in Indiana is “DePauw.” I was born and image was made during however, encounter scree slopes, death- photos and great articles. Thank you for raised in Indiana, so I’m quite familiar an Arizona Highways with the name. I had relatives that Photo Workshop. attended the school. I lived most of my n For information about our next workshop on the Navajo life in New Mexico, which is the only Nation, which takes place ask AHM state I consider superior to Arizona. October 28-November 1, visit My wife and I recently visited the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. We were im- Warner E. Miller, Peoria friendsofazhighways.org or Qpressed by El Tovar. Can you tell me when it opened? call 888-790-7042. Eric Peterson, Minneapolis El Tovar opened in 1905. At the time, rooms without a bath cost $4, while rooms contact us A with a bath went for $6. Lunch was $1, and dinner, served by comely, white- aproned Harvey Girls, rarely cost more than $1.50. The lodge was added to the If you have thoughts or comments about National Register of Historic Places in 1974. For reservations, visit grandcanyon anything in Arizona Highways, we’d love to lodges.com. hear from you. We can be reached at editor@ arizonahighways.com, or by mail at 2039 W. n If you have a question about Arizona, please send an e-mail to: [email protected]. Lewis Avenue, Phoenix, Arizona 85009. For more information, visit arizonahighways.com. LYNN SANKEY LYNN

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  the Journal

CELEBRITY Q&A date — to charity, with DINING each wine geared to a dif- Roger Clyne ferent cause. Specifically, Recording Artist pizzazz quickly earned her the nickname, “Love Chef.” “The its Chardonnay benefits by Dave Pratt Remote Possibilities food is personal,” she says with a friendly smile. breast cancer research, its Made from scratch, using only fresh ingredients, Bellows Cabernet Sauvignon ben- AH: If you were trying to Although it’s located in the middle of nowhere, the creates edible works of art through dishes like luscious Sesame convince your fans that Arizona food at Cliff Dwellers Restaurant is out of this world. efits autism research, and is one of the most beautiful Crusted Seared Ahi Tuna, savory New Zealand Rack of its Merlot benefits AIDS places in America, where would Lamb and crisp High Mesa Salad — all meals you’d expect in research. you send them? SITUATED ALONG A QUIET STRETCH OF STATE ROUTE 89A Scottsdale or Phoenix, not on the desolate Colorado Plateau. And that’s just the RC: I’d encourage them to make beneath the rugged Vermilion Cliffs of Northern Arizona, the Sure, you can still order a beefy burger with all the fixings, but beginning. Later this year, the hike from Patagonia to the Cliff Dwellers Restaurant is 50 miles away from any semblance Bellows’ daily specials, such as Shrimp Tempura with Wasabi peak of Mount Wrightson in Hope, which is partnered Southeastern Arizona. If they go in of a town. Despite its wildly remote location, “The Cliff is a Ponzu and Maple Glazed Bacon-Wrapped Pork Chops, will cer- with winemaker David spring, they’ll meet the swallows Venus flytrap,” says chef Marnie Bellows. “People stop in to have tainly tempt even the most discriminating taste buds. Elliot of Sonoma Wine Co., and ladybugs up there. The moun- an iced tea, and end up staying here for two days.” Although the flavors are complex and worldly, the Cliff’s is releasing a Zinfandel tain burned badly some years ago, The Cliff Dwellers Lodge has been luring unsuspecting ambience remains simple and laid-back. Even after an exciting to support the families but it’s blooming once again, and patrons since 1920, when homesteaders Bill and Blanche Russell day of fly-fishing, hiking or sightseeing, you’re encouraged to to be witness to the miracle of that of fallen troops, and a process is an honor. At the top, the established a small trading post for intrepid westbound travel- come as you are for your feast. No fancy clothes, white table- Sauvignon Blanc to benefit views of the deserts, mountains, ers looking to fuel up for the long haul across the Arizona Strip. cloths or servers in pressed uniforms here. environmental research. plains and sky are mesmerizing. The current owners, the spirited husband-wife team of Terry Whether you’re passing by on your way to the North Rim of the “Wine goes with charity AH: When you go hiking in and Wendy Gunn, have transformed this remote retreat into a Grand Canyon or spending time near Marble Canyon, the Cliff like it does with cheese,” Arizona, what’s the one thing premier destination for world-class fly-fishing and other outdoor will draw you in. The Love Chef knows: “Once someone stops — other than water — that you Senseman says. carry in your backpack? activities that cultivate the hearty appetites of their guests. here, they always come back. There’s nowhere like it in the world.” The idea for starting a The Cliff satisfies hungry travelers and outdoors enthusiasts n Cliff Dwellers Restaurant is located along State Route 89A in Marble RC: Waterproof matches. Wher- cause-motivated company ever you are, fire may become a with a pleasantly unexpected upscale menu, presented by Chef Canyon, 9 miles west of Navajo Bridge. For more information, call 800- came to Senseman when necessary survival tool. Bellows. Lured to the Cliff from Salt Lake City in 1994, Bellows’ 962-9755 or visit cliffdwellerslodge.com. she and her partners were AH: What’s your favorite place passion for taking care of visitors by serving food with style and — Colleen Miniuk-Sperry working at E.&J. Gallo in Arizona?

BRENDAN MOORE Winery after college. RC: I know a secret little glen in Senseman, a graduate of the Whetstone Mountains where PEOPLE the University of Arizona with a degree in mar- I’m sure Geronimo and Cochise took refuge. keting, noticed that whenever companies such as Yoplait engaged in cause marketing, their AH: When you travel around Raise a Glass the country, what do people sales increased. ask most about Arizona? It’s not every day you meet a 25-year- “I thought the initial idea was great, but I old who starts a wine company and RC: They generally ask, “What’s wondered why a company couldn’t do some- it like?” I tell them you can only donates half of its profits to charity. thing like that all the time,” she says. “I guess know if you visit. If you come, stay Kristen Senseman of Scottsdale is wine’s just one of those perfect products for awhile. If you stay, foster commu- one of the rare exceptions. something like this, because no matter if times nity and protect the land. are good or bad, people are going to buy it, and — Dave Pratt is the host of the they might as well feel good about it.” Dave Pratt in the Morning show on KMLE 107.9 FM in Phoenix SPENDING VACATIONS IN NAPA VALLEY In addition to money, the seven members of with her parents, long before she was old the company also donate their time, whether enough to drink, might have cultivated it be weekly to the charity events around the Kristen Senseman’s interest in wine, but for country or the seven-day, 545-mile bicycle ride the 25-year-old Scottsdale resident, who is from San Francisco to Los Angeles to benefit co-owner and vice president of Hope Wine in AIDS research. Senseman took that ride in Southern California, she says she fell in love June, and says she’s inspired each time she with grapes in June 2007. That’s when she and gets to connect with the people helped by her her seven partners — all under the age of 30 company. — launched their company, which is based in “We always get people coming up and tell- Newport Beach. ing us their stories,” she says. “When I think Hope Wine is among a new breed of busi- about it, it’s exciting and overwhelming to nesses that promote social responsibility, along think how many people are affected.” with the products they’re selling. In this case, n For more information, visit hopewine.com.

Hope donates half of its profits — $75,000 to — Kendall Wright COLLEEN MINIUK-SPERRY

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  the Journal

LODGING fell into the freezing water. After struggling for nearly an hour, she finally made it out of the river and found herself chest-deep Catch the Stars in quicksand. She managed to escape, but her shoes and pants Most people head to Malibu to catch a glimpse did not. She tied her shirt around her waist and trudged back to of the stars; however, your best bet is a B&B in her car, caked with mud and leaves. Southern Arizona. She was driving back to Tucson to see her husband, astron- PHOTOGRAPHY omy enthusiast Eduardo Vega, when a police officer on DUI patrol pulled her over. ISOLATED FROM MAJOR CITIES AND BRIGHT LIGHTS, THE “Please step out of the car.” It wasn’t a question. Entry Points Astronomers Inn, a unique B&B in Benson, houses the one-of-a- Patricia explained to the man why she couldn’t get out of Our first-ever online photography contest is kind Vega-Bray Observatory. The inn’s location makes it possible her car, recounting her incredible evening. He was reluctant to under way, but there’s still time to submit because the jet streams over Southern Arizona provide ideal believe her story, but followed her all the way back to her house your best shots. Here’s how: conditions for stargazing, allowing visitors some of the most to make sure she arrived safely. beautiful views in the world. Anytime is a good time to visit, but From that night on, until recently, Patricia ran the Sky according to Christina Pease and Dean Salman, who lead some Watcher’s Inn. However, in 2006, she sold the property to the DIGITAL ENTRIES ARE POURING IN from photographers of the private stargazing lessons, October is best because of the current owners, who renamed it. Fortunately for astronomy lov- around the world as our first-ever online photography contest cooler weather and clearer skies. ers, not much has changed. shifts into high gear. As you’ll see when you visit our Web site Guests can hire Pease and Salman, as well as other guides, for The inn still has three themed rooms and a studio, including (arizonahighways.com), we’re taking advantage of the latest a four-hour lesson, which can be geared to any level of interest. the Garden Room, the Egyptian Room and the Galaxy Room, technology to conduct our contest. By the way, this is only the

In addition, a new session teaches guests how to take photo- which is decorated in a Star Wars theme and has a 10-foot dome. second photography contest in the magazine’s illustrious 83-year LADD GARY graphs using telescopes. Breakfast is served in the solarium, overlooking the lake and history, and I’m in the unique position of having worked on the Although an evening spent under a blanket of stars in a mys- surrounding property. Outside its large picture windows, lav- planning and execution of both. in which to enter — Landscape, People/Culture, Wildlife and terious pitch-black sky sounds like something out of a Robert ishly colored birds hover nearby and squirrels seek shelter under The last time Arizona Highways sponsored a photo contest was Macro/Close-Up. Frost poem, Patricia Vega’s first night at the Astronomers Inn the patio. 1986, and the differences between that one and this one were The grand prize for the Best of Show winner is a trip on an was much different than what guests experience today. It seems peaceful, and it is. Despite the occasional rattlesnake inconceivable 22 years ago. Old contest rules detailing entry Arizona Highways Photo Workshop. This is a chance to learn Back then, it wasn’t the Astronomers Inn, or even the Sky or Gila monster, visitors to the Astronomers Inn don’t have much procedures for the mounting and mailing of color prints seem firsthand from some of the best photographers in the world. For Watcher’s Inn, its original name; it was a 57-acre plot of land that more to worry about — other than a cloudy evening. burdensome by today’s standards — the technology of the times second- and third-place prizes, we’ve partnered with Tempe Patricia had saved for and purchased on her own. n The Astronomers Inn is located at 1311 S. Astronomers Road, just has rewritten the rulebook. Camera Repair and Photo Imaging Center. On New Year’s Eve 1987, at exactly midnight, she took pos- outside of Benson off Interstate 10. For more information, call 520-586- The most obvious difference is that this year’s competition is Joe Wojcic, the founder and owner of Tempe Camera, is session of the property and started walking the perimeter. Along 7906 or visit astronomersinn.com. being conducted entirely online. To make that work, we estab- providing a digital SLR camera package for second place, and a the banks of the San Pedro River, the ground gave way and she — Lauren Proper lished an advanced photo contest module that’s customized to digital point-and-shoot camera package for third place. Because offer our entrants a rich interactive experience. Vicky Snow, photography technology is advancing at such a rapid pace, Joe our Webmaster, has logged countless hours implementing the has not yet chosen which cameras will be awarded. To ensure program and testing the interface to make sure registrations are that the winners receive the very latest feature-filled equipment, smooth and seamless. he’ll select the cameras when the judges’ choices are announced. In addition to submitting entries over the Internet, contes- In addition to these prizes, the winners’ photographs will be tants have the ability to view their photos and all other entries showcased in our September 2009 issue, and posted on our Web online. What’s more, anyone can cast a vote for his or her favor- site, along with the People’s Choice winners and entries receiv- ite photograph and view voting tabulations in real time. ing special recognition from the judges. Go ahead. Take a look online and size up your competition. So hit us with your best shots. There’s no entry fee, the rules Surely you have a better shot of the Grand Canyon or a desert are simple, and the entry process is quick and easy. For complete bighorn sheep than those entered so far. If not, there’s still time contest rules and entry procedures, visit arizonahighways.com to go out and shoot something new for our contest. The deadline and click on the photography contest link. Good luck! for entries is November 15, 2008, and there are four categories — Peter Ensenberger, director of photography

PHOTO TIP tion, but the primary technique is to ing the story you’re trying to tell. It re- move closer to the subject. Whether moves distractions from the edges of you physically move the camera closer the frame, eliminates superfluous ele- KEEP IT SIMPLE or zoom in optically, getting closer ments, and defocuses the background. The best way to present a clear allows you to fill the frame with the message in a photograph is to keep editor’s note: Look for Arizona Highways subject, paring the composition down the composition simple. The fewer Photography Guide, available now at book- to its essential components and clarify- stores and arizonahighways.com. elements you work with, the easier it is to design a pleasing image and orches- trate the viewer’s eye movement. There online For more photography tips and information, visit are several ways to simplify a composi- arizonahighways.com and click on “Photography.” DAVID SMITH DAVID

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  the Journal

HISTORY NATURE insects and birds use salt cedar, although, the endangered south- western willow flycatcher will nest in tamarisks when native Point and Shoot Space Invader vegetation is unavailable. White-winged doves and mourning If you’re going to have a gunfight, you might as Salt cedar, a European import, is gobbling up Ari­ doves, honeybees and cicadas also use tamarisks. well make it memorable — 127 years ago this zona’s shorelines — it now accounts for 90 percent Despite its prevalence, it is possible to eradicate salt cedar from month, the Earps et al. did just that. of the ground cover in some riparian habitats. localized regions, but not large landscapes. One promising method is through biocontrol using the Chinese salt cedar leaf beetle. “Once [the beetle] is well established, it does an excellent job IT TAKES LONGER TO TELL THE STORY than the event itself WHERE WATER FLOWS, SALT CEDAR GROWS. THE PLANT, of defoliating the plant,” says Joseph DiTomaso, a weed ecologist lasted. Gunfights are like that. In this case, the duel was done in also known as tamarisk, is an ornamental shrub that was at the University of California, Davis. “If salt cedar became just ARIZONA STATE LIBRARY ARCHIVES LIBRARY ARIZONA STATE 30 seconds, and by the time the smoke had cleared, three men (Left to right) Tom McLaury, Frank McLaury and Billy Clanton brought to North America from Europe in the late 1800s to create one of many plants in a community, and not by any means the were dead and two lay wounded. windbreaks and halt riverbank erosion. More than a century later, dominant plant, ecosystem function would be maintained, as One hundred and twenty-seven years ago this month, the brother, Frank, rode into town to join ranks with Ike and Tom. this invasive species rules the roost along Western waterways. would plant and animal diversity.” Earp brothers and Doc Holliday took an October afternoon walk While the Clantons and McLaurys gathered in a vacant lot In Arizona, salt cedar, with its reddish bark and pencil- However, the beetle has not been able to establish itself in on the streets of Tombstone. It ended in the most famous shoot- on Fremont Street — a block away from the O.K. Corral — the shaped clusters of pink and white flowers, is easy to spot out in Old West history — the Gunfight at the O.K. Corral. Earps and Holliday went looking for them. Witnesses reported thronging the Colorado, Gila, Salt and Santa Cruz rivers, to Some say the face-off between the Clantons (Ike and Billy), that as the four men walked down Fremont Street, Morgan said name a few. Its wispy limbs, which can reach up to 30 feet in who were joined by the McLaurys (Frank and Tom), and the to Holliday, “Let ’em have it.” height, overhang roots that burrow more than 10 feet below the Earps (Virgil, Morgan and Wyatt), who were joined by their The opposing men stood only 6 feet apart, and when the gun- surface in search of water. friend Doc Holliday, started brewing seven months earlier, on fire ended, Billy Clanton and Tom and Frank McLaury lay dead. Salt cedar gets its name from the salt that drips from its stems March 15, 1881. That’s when an attempted stagecoach robbery Virgil and Morgan Earp were wounded, and Doc Holliday was and leaves into the ground — this process increases the salinity took place, leaving two people dead and no sign of the prime grazed by a bullet. Ike had retreated when the shooting started. of the surrounding soil and hinders the growth of native plants. suspect. The next day, the bodies of the three dead men were dressed Unlike native cottonwoods, which have shallower roots, salt Over the spring and summer, accusations, bribery and mis- in suits, laid out in caskets, and put on public display at the cedar is well adapted to withstand drought and flooding. Its information related to the robbery fueled the flames of the feud, Ritter and Ream Funeral Parlor with a sign above them that biological advantages also include widespread seed dispersal by and hostilities between the two groups increased. By October 25, read: “Murdered in the Streets of Tombstone. …” wind, and the ability to grow vegetatively, which means a stray the tension on the streets of Tombstone was palpable. What led to the violent showdown has been debated by wit- stick partially buried beneath the sediment can sprout roots. At midnight on the 25th, Ike Clanton and Holliday had a nesses, historians and Wild West aficionados for more than a What’s more, it also recovers quickly from fire damage, even run-in, and after an all-night drinking binge, Ike was itching century. Some blame Ike Clanton, some blame Wyatt Earp, and though tightly packed clumps of tamarisk pose an increased risk for a fight. By the morning of the 26th, he was shooting off his some blame Doc Holliday. Regardless of who instigated things, of wildfires. mouth and threatening to kill the Earps and Holliday. their places are etched in history, and the legend lives on. In fact, it’s these packed clumps that overtake native trees, Around noon that day, Virgil Earp, the town marshal, got wind n Tombstone celebrates its colorful history during Helldorado Days including mesquites and willows — it’s estimated that tama- of Clanton’s threats and called on Morgan and Wyatt as backups, (October 17-19), which includes a re-enactment of the Gunfight at the risks account for 90 percent of the ground cover in some ripar- in case a fight was to break out. On the other side of town, around O.K. Corral. For information, visit tombstonevigilantes.com. ian habitats, further reducing plant and animal diversity. The 2:30 in the afternoon, Ike’s younger brother, Billy, and Tom’s — Sally Benford lower Colorado River is on that list. Native mammals such as beavers and porcupines, which normally feed on cottonwoods and willows, won’t eat salt cedar,

THIS MONTH IN HISTORY and as a result, fare poorly where it dominates. In addition, few JEFF KIDA

■ On October 10, 1918, two dozen cases of Spanish influ- some areas, and is not permitted in the southwestern willow fly- enza were reported in Tucson, prompting city and state catcher’s habitat, DiTomaso says. officials to enact strict quarantine measures and Still, biocontrol proponents estimate it could reduce up to 80 close “all places of public gatherings,” such as schools, nature factoid 50 percent of tamarisk biomass, says Curt Deuser, a National Park churches and theaters. Service restoration biologist based out of Lake Mead. ■ On October 12, 1940, Western film actor Tom Mix died NORTHERN SHOVELER years ago when his 1937 Cord 812 Phaeton crashed at a construc- Named for its odd-shaped bill, “It’s too much money to use the methods we use, like chain- in arizona highways tion site on State Route 79 near Florence. A historical the northern shoveler, a mi- saws or heavy equipment or herbicide, so, hopefully, the beetles grating duck found primarily marker now identifies the site of the crash. will reduce [large] populations, and then we can do local eradi- U.S. Route 70 once crossed the length around Flagstaff and in the of Arizona from east to west. Today, ■ On October 16, 1931, Winnie Ruth Judd of Phoenix White Mountains, scoops water cation with our methods,” Deuser says. the interstates have taken over. Nonetheless, there’s still a lot to see murdered her roommates and cut their bodies into into its mouth, where comblike After elimination, the next hurdle is restoring native vegeta- along the older roads, and that was the focus of our October 1958 issue, pieces. She then stuffed the body parts into a shipping projections filter food such as tion. “Once salt cedar is killed, what next?” DiTomaso asks. which looked at the points of interest along U.S. 70, from Duncan on trunk, earning her the morbid nickname, “the Trunk mollusks, insects, plants and the state’s eastern border to Ehrenberg near the California state line. “These are expensive programs, and we need to ensure that if the Murderess.” seeds from the water.

C.K. LORENZ money is to be invested in restoration, it better be successful.” — Leah Duran

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  the Journal

T H I N G S TO DO Party at

Schnepf Flagstaff’s Day of the Dead Farms October 24-26: The Museum October 1-31: Pumpkin bowl- of Northern Arizona in Flagstaff ing, a pumpkin pie-eating comes alive during its Dia de los Muertos Celebraciones de la contest, a 10-acre celebrity Gente. Based on an ancient and maze, carnival rides, games, traditional Mesoamerican holi- fireworks and, of course, chili day, the event commemorates are just a few of the reasons to departed loved ones with musi- visit the 14th Annual Schnepf cal and theatrical performances that include Aztec fire dances, Farms Pumpkin & Chili ballet folklorico, storytelling, Party in Queen Creek. mariachis and other activities. n Information: 480-987-3100 or n Information: 928-774-5213 or pumpkinandchiliparty.com. musnaz.org/index.html.

Wine Crush in Chandler October 17-19: This is your chance to do the Kokopelli Krush at the Kokopelli Winery in downtown Chandler. Teams

KERRICK JAMES of two compete by jumping barefoot in a barrel of grapes to see how much grape juice they can make in two minutes. Ghost Walk in Jerome In addition, there will be music, October 11: The ghosts of Jerome won’t rest in peace, but they do wine-tastings, food, games, provide some excitement during the town’s annual Ghost Walk. vendor booths and more. The tour, which begins at Spook Hall and winds through the city, n Information: 480-792-6927 or teaches visitors about the murders, suicides and deaths associ- kokopelliwinery.com. ated with the ghosts that still haunt this old mining town. n KERRICK JAMES Information: 928-634-1066 or jeromehistoricalsociety.org. Photography Workshop Lake Havasu Festival The Chiricahua Wilderness comes October 21-November 2: Lon- alive with color every autumn, don Bridge isn’t falling down, displaying the vibrant reds, or- but it is the site of Lake Havasu anges and golds of the maples and City’s 37th annual London sycamores that line Cave Creek THE PERFECT GIFT IS RIGHT IN FRONT OF YOU! Bridge Days. The town’s famous Canyon. The area is also known landmark is celebrated with the for striking formations of volcanic Give the gift of Arizona Highways. Chillin’ & Swillin’ Brew Festival, spires and balanced rocks. Pho- the Taste of Havasu, a parade, Just $24 for the first gift subscription, tographer Edward McCain teaches entertainment and more — all how to make dramatic images of and $21 for each additional gift! set against the sparkling water the stunning Chiricahua landscape of Lake Havasu. during an Arizona Highways Photo To order, visit arizonahighways.com or call 800-543-5432. n Information: 928-453-3444 or Workshop. golakehavasu.com. Offer expires November 28, 2008. Use promo code AH8AB. n Information: 888-790-7042 or You can also visit our retail location at 2039 W. Lewis Avenue in Phoenix.

JIM MARSHALL friendsofazhighways.com.

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAThere are several ways to enjoy fall color. You could tear out the pages of this magazine and hang them on your fridge, you could do the obvious and head to New England, or you could throw on a sweatshirt and explore Arizona. We suggest the latter. The leaves are gorgeous, and there are several ways to see them — whether you’re looking for a nature walk, a hard-core hike or a scenic drive. What follows are 15 of our favorites. By Robert Stieve

STAR BRIGHT A starburst of light from the setting sun shines through aspens tinged with gold at Arizona Snowbowl in the San Francisco Peaks near Flagstaff. Photograph by George Stocking

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  5 naturewalks

Add water to just about any setting and The names of some trails in Arizona are it’s bound to get better. This remote trail curious, like this one, which is named for near Hannagan Meadow is no excep- a sheepherder who once lived in the area. tion. In addition to the lake and the Apparently, he was as good at clipping When you mention fall color in Arizona, mixed forest of aspens and conifers, this his fellow herders as he was at shear- most people think about Northern Arizona. hike features a meadow called Butterfly ing sheep. The trail meanders through a Not all, but most. There are two trails at Cienega, where you’ll want to keep your nice stretch of open forests and shallow this beautiful spot — a short paved loop to eyes peeled for elk, mule deer and black canyons. Because of the high density of allow wheelchair access, and a longer loop bears. From there, the trail leads to Ackre maples, aspens and oaks along this trail, with good old-fashioned dirt. Both trails Lake, where a log bridge crosses the dam. the fall colors are beautiful. Of course, bridge the habitats of forest and grassland, It’s a great place to read a book or have a there are pines, firs and wildlife, too, making it an ideal location to encounter picnic. You can loop this trail by follow- including wild turkeys, mule deer, elk not only fall colors, but also Steller’s jays, ing Ackre Lake Road (Forest Road 8312) and black bears. Northern red-tailed hawks, mule deer, back to Butterfly Cienega and retracing porcupines, pronghorns, elk and badgers. your route from the meadow. Directions: From Flagstaff, drive south The views of the San Francisco Peaks are on Forest Highway 3 for 55 miles to State Route 87. Go north on State 87 pretty amazing, too. Directions: The trailhead is located just for 9 miles to Forest Road 95, turn right, south of the Hannagan Meadow and continue 8 miles to Forest Road 139. Directions: From Flagstaff, drive north on campground, which is 22 miles south Continue 7 miles on FR 139 to the trailhead. U.S. Route 180 for approximately 20 miles of Alpine on U.S. Route 191. Elevation: 7,600 to 7,800 feet to the southern end of Kendrick Park. Elevation: 9,100 to 8,700 feet Distance: 4.5 miles, one way Elevation: 7,000 feet Distance: 3.5 miles, one way Difficulty: Moderate Distance: .25 miles (short loop) Difficulty: Moderate Information: 928-477-2255 or or 1.5 miles (long loop) Information: 928-339-5000 or Difficulty: Easy www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino www.fs.fed.us/r3/asnf Information: 928-526-0866 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino Pole Knoll Recreation Area 1 There are several nature walks in this recre- 3 ation area, which is best known as a mecca 4 for cross-country skiing. The shortest loop is 2 slightly more than a mile, and the longest is 6 miles — the entire complex of trails and roads runs for almost 30 miles. Most of the fall color is provided by the aspens and oaks, but the scenery goes beyond the autumn leaves. Pole ONE FOR THE MONET Bigtooth maple leaves and a pinecone rest on a Knoll also offers spectacular views of Sunrise bed of bark and pine needles (left), Lake, Sunrise Peak and Mount Baldy to the forming an autumn still life. southwest, Greens Peak to the north, and the Photograph by George Stocking Little Colorado Basin to the east. HELLO, YELLOW! Sunny-side-up aspens and oaks greet visitors to Directions: From Springerville, go west on State the Pole Knoll Recreation Area Route 260 for approximately 14 miles. The (right) in the White Mountains. trailhead is on the south side of the road. Specific Photograph by Jerry Jacka trail information is available at the trailhead. n To order a print of this Elevation: 9,000 feet photograph, see page 1. Distance: Variable Difficulty: Easy Information: 928-333-4301 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/asnf

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  5 hardcorehikes

6 7 8

Although nearby Humphreys Peak gets Named for a local settler, this trail follows most of the attention, this beautiful trail one of the nicest canyons in the Oak Creek This relatively quiet trail leads to the peak follows a gently rolling course along drainage. As the path climbs up the can- of Mormon Mountain (8,449 feet) and the middle slopes of the Kachina Peaks yon, it rubs shoulders with stunning out- climbs gradually through a forest of ponde- Wilderness Area. Most of the fall color croppings near the rim, while offering rosa pines, mixed conifers and aspens. At a radiates from the stands of white-barked distant panoramas to the east. At Sterling number of places along the route, openings aspens. The trail also offers good views of Pass, the trail zigzags down the other side in the forest canopy provide long-distance the rocky upper slopes of the mountain to the Vultee Arch Trail. A short spur trail views of Mormon Lake, and the grassy flats and the forests surrounding its base. It to Vultee Arch leads to one of the best pan- and forest-covered hills that surround it. comes with a soundtrack, too. If you lis- oramas of the Red Rock-Secret Canyon For a short distance after leaving the trail- ten closely, you’ll likely hear the bugling Wilderness. If you’re wondering about head, Mormon Mountain Trail shares the sounds of bull elk as they gather harems color, that comes primarily from dwarf path with the self-guided nature trail that for the breeding season. canyon maples, which turn scarlet and skirts a nearby campground. The moun- peach this time of year. tain trail then branches off on its own to Directions: From Flagstaff, drive north on complete the 1,500-foot climb. State Route 180 for 7 miles to Forest Road Directions: From Sedona, drive north on State 516 (Snowbowl Road), turn right and Route 89A for 6 miles to the trailhead on Directions: From Flagstaff, go south on Forest continue another 7.4 miles to the lower the west side of the road, about a half-mile Highway 3 for 20 miles to the intersection with parking lot. The trailhead is at the south north of Milepost 380. Parking is available Forest Road 90. Turn west on FR 90 and drive 3.5 end of the lot. south of nearby Manzanita Campground, miles to the Montezuma Lodge turnoff. Drive Elevation: 9,325 to 8,788 feet on the east side of the highway. 0.6 miles to the trailhead. All roads are paved Distance: 5 miles, one way Elevation: 4,850 to 5,950 feet except the last 0.6 miles. Difficulty: Moderate Distance: 2.4 miles, one way Elevation: 7,200 to 8,449 feet Information: 928-526-0866 or Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous Distance: 6 miles, round-trip www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino Information: 928-282-4119 or Difficulty: Moderate www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino Information: 928-526-0866 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino

5 October is one of your last chances to visit the Grand Canyon’s North Rim, as winter snows usually close the 7 6 road sometime this month. There are numerous places 8 to see fall-tinged leaves in this neck of the woods, but the trail to Dog Lake, which follows a portion of the Arizona Trail and requires a high-clearance vehicle, is one of the best. Among other things, it crosses two beautiful alpine meadows. The highlight, though, at least this time of year, is the lake itself. Although it’s just a pond, it’s WHICH WAY IS UP? Crowned ringed with aspens, which provide the ultimate gold with translucent fall foliage, rush in the fall. You’ll likely see mule deer and maybe white-trunked aspens seem some turkeys, too, but the aspens steal the show. to converge (left) in the Coconino National Forest. Photograph by Elias Butler Directions: From Jacob Lake, drive south on State n To order a print of this Route 67 for approximately 26 miles. Turn left onto photograph, see page 1. Forest Road 611 and go 1.4 miles, veering right and then left, to continue on FR 611. The road is signed East Rim View. FALL PALETTE Autumn leaves Drive another 2.5 miles on this road to the trailhead. (right) dapple Workman Creek in Elevation: 8,802 feet the Sierra Ancha Wilderness. Distance: 3.8 miles, round-trip Photograph by Morey Milbradt Difficulty:Easy Information: 928-643-7395 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/kai  o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  9 Gobbler> Point Trail

Gobbler Point is the steepest trail leading into the Bear Wallow Wilderness, and it offers one of the best displays of fall color in the state. In addition to the panoramic views, there are all kinds of trees, including a mixed stand of conifers, ponderosa pines and aspens along the trail’s upper reaches. That group eventually gives way to clumps of Gambel oaks, red-osier dogwoods and bracken ferns as the trail loses altitude. At the junction with Bear Wallow Trail on the canyon floor, the trail winds through a parklike com- munity of ponderosa pines and canyon hardwoods, including Arizona ash, alders and box elders. Keep in mind, this trail even- tually leads to the San Carlos Apache Indian Reservation, where a special-use permit from the tribe is required for entry.

Directions: From Alpine, go south on U.S. Route 191 for approximately 28 miles to Forest Road 25. Go west on FR 25 about 7 miles to Gobbler Point Road, which is on the south side of the road. Follow this road to the left at the first fork, and head right at the second fork for 3 miles to the trailhead. Elevation: 8,770 to 6,700 feet Distance: 2.7 miles, one way Difficulty: Strenuous Information: 928-339-5000 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/asnf 10 Butterfly> Trail

This trail passes through an area so biologically diverse that part of it has been designated a Research Natural Area. In the higher elevations, you’ll see ponderosa pines, Douglas firs and Southwestern white pines, while Arizona madrones, box elders and bigtooth maples offer a blast of color in the lower reaches. As the name suggests, there are butterflies too, which congregate in clusters among the wildflowers. If it’s views you’re after, the pan- oramas along this trail are as diverse as the biology — especially if you take the short side hike to the top of Mount Bigelow, where you’ll find good views of Tucson to the west.

Directions: From Tucson, go east on Grant Road for 8 miles to Tanque Verde Road. Continue east on Tanque Verde for 3 miles to the Catalina Highway. Drive 4.2 miles to the forest boundary, and continue 19 miles to the Palisade Visitor Information Center. The trailhead is located at BURBLING BROOK Oak Creek the north end of the parking lot. burbles over and around rocks Elevation: 6,500 to 8,200 feet strewn with bigtooth maple 9 leaves in the Coconino Distance: 5.7 miles, one way National Forest near Sedona. Difficulty: Moderate to strenuous 10 Photograph by Larry Lindahl Information: 520-749-8700 or n To order a print of this www.fs.fed.us/r3/coronado photograph, see page 1.

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  5 scenicdrives

11 12 Beaverhead> to Sky Island> Alpine Scenic Byway

Before you load the minivan, ask yourself this ques- There are a couple things you need to know tion: Am I afraid of hairpin turns and the middle about this drive. One, it’s also known as the of nowhere? If you answer yes, point your vehicle Catalina Highway, the Mount Lemmon High­ somewhere else. Or, better yet, hire a driver, because way and the General Hitchcock Highway. And this route offers the ultimate taste of the great out- two, you won’t be alone. Don’t let that stop you, doors. Elk, black bears, deer and mountain lions though. This is one of the most scenic routes 11 are in the neighborhood, and so are Mexican gray in the Southwest, and it’s an easy way to get a wolves. You probably won’t see any wolves, but healthy dose of fall color. Really, if you’re into 12 you will see an abundance of fall color. You’ll also flora and fauna, it doesn’t get much better than

see the Blue River, which you’ll have to cross at this — the Catalina Range is one of the most BECKONING BACK ROAD one point. The river crossing is firm, and as long naturally diverse regions in the continental Curving between aspens and as it’s not at flood stage, most vehicles can make United States. ponderosa pines (below), a road in the Apache-Sitgreaves it across. High-clearance, however, is recommend­- Directions: From Tucson, drive east on Grant Road National Forests, west of Alpine, beckons travelers to lin- ed. After that, it’s smooth sailing on a dirt road for 8 miles to Tanque Verde Road. Continue east on ger longer on a fine fall day. back to Alpine. Tanque Verde for 3 miles to the Sky Island Scenic Photograph by Jerry Jacka Byway, a.k.a. the Catalina Highway. The scenic Directions: From Alpine, go south on U.S. Route 191 for drive is a paved, winding two-lane road that begins STRAWBERRY SWIRL Painted 14 miles to Forest Road 567 at Beaverhead. Continue at the boundary of Coronado National Forest the colors of pulpy strawberries east on FR 567 for 13 miles to Blue Crossing, turn left and terminates in the village of Summerhaven. by Nature’s hand, autumn onto Forest Road 281, and continue 22 miles back to Elevation: 3,000 to 9,100 feet leaves (right) swirl in eddies in Alpine. Distance: 27 miles the South Fork of Cave Creek in Elevation: 8,050 to 8,127 feet Information: 520-749-8700 or the Chiricahua Mountains. Distance: 49 miles www.fs.fed.us/r3/coronado Photograph by George Stocking Information: 928-339-5000 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/asnf

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  RIPPLED REFLECTION A breeze barely fingering the surface of a Mogollon Rim pond creates an impressionistic duplication of an autumn landscape. 13 14 15 Photograph by Jerry Jacka > > > n To order a print of this Schultz Pass Road Forest Road 300 Garland Prairie photograph, see page 1.

If you’re looking for a quick getaway, After the Grand Canyon, the Mogollon Rim This route, which crosses and runs par- this is it. Shultz Pass represents one of is the most striking geological feature in allel to an overland route once used by the state’s shortest distances from civi- Arizona. Measured in thousands of feet and Indians, trappers and explorers, is not lization to wilderness. In another era, it hundreds of miles, it begins near the border only scenic, it’s also historic. Like most served as a shortcut from the settlements with New Mexico and stretches diagonally roads that leave pavement, this one is in the eastern part of the Flagstaff area to across most of the state. Through the lens best experienced with a high-clearance downtown. Today, it provides easy access of a camera, binoculars or your own baby vehicle, but if the road isn’t muddy, a to great views of the aspens in the San blues, the views from the Rim are unbe- Honda Accord will do just fine. Garland Francisco Peaks. It also serves as a gate- lievable, uninterrupted and unsurpassed. Prairie — which was settled by home- way to cool ponderosa pine forests, lots of Going from east to west, the well-graded steaders who were only mildly successful hiking trails and picnic spots. Of course, gravel road, suitable for everything from at farming — and White Horse Lake are because of its easy access, you won’t be a Prius to a conversion van, kicks off near the highlights of this drive. You’ll have to alone on this road, so please be courteous Woods Canyon Lake. From there, it winds detour to get to the lake, but the dense to fellow travelers. along the Rim past the turnoffs to Bear stand of quaking aspens makes it worth- Canyon Lake, Knoll Lake and several other while. When it comes to fall color, noth- Directions: From Flagstaff, drive about 2 miles small lakes, before striking pavement at ing is more beautiful than white-barked north on U.S. Route 180. Just beyond the State Route 260 just north of Strawberry. Museum of Northern Arizona, turn east onto aspens and their golden leaves. Postcard Forest Road 420 and follow this road up and Directions: From Payson, drive east on views continue from the aspen grove all over Schultz Pass to U.S. Route 89, where you’ll State Route 260 past Kohl’s Ranch to where turn south for the return trip to Flagstaff. the way to Williams. the road tops out on the Mogollon Rim. Elevation: 7,000 to 7,800 feet Turn left toward Woods Canyon Lake and Directions: From Flagstaff, go west on Distance: 26 miles continue about a mile to Forest Road 300. Interstate 40 for 17 miles to Exit 178 at Parks. Information: 928-526-0866 or Elevation: 7,500 to 5,800 feet Drive south on Forest Road 141 (Garland www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino Distance: 54 miles Prairie Road) for approximately 12 miles Information: 928-477-2255 or (there will be several 90-degree turns) to www.fs.fed.us/r3/coconino Forest Road 109. Go south for 5.3 miles to White Horse Lake, then backtrack to Forest Road 141 and go west for 3.3 miles to Forest Road 140. Continue west on FR 140 for 2.8 miles to Forest Road 173, turn right (north), and continue 4.5 miles to Williams. Elevation: 6,800 feet Distance: 33 miles Information: 928-635-5600 or www.fs.fed.us/r3/kai

13 15 14

MATTER OF SCALE A minifall on Workman Creek in the Sierra Fall Color Hotline: From mid-Septem- Ancha Mountains proves the ber through mid-November, the U.S. Forest adage that size isn’t everything. Service offers a hotline with information on Photograph by Claire Curran fall colors in Arizona. Call 800-354-4595 for the latest updates, or visit www.fs.fed.us/ news/fallcolors.

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  A PORTFOLIO

Headline here

Forty-word deck goes here. Forty-word deck goes here. Forty-word deck goes here. Forty- A word deck goes here. Forty-word deck goes PORTFOLIO here. Forty-word deck goes here. Forty-word deck goes here. Forty-word deck goes here. Forty-word deck goes here. Forty-word deck goes here.

By A Writer

It’s one thing to ask a photographer to shoot fall leaves in the San Francisco Peaks or along a back road in the Escudilla Mountains. Photographers line up for those assignments. Finding somebody to shoot sand dunes on the Navajo Nation is a little more difficult. SANDSCAPE PHOTOGRA PHY It’s hot, it’s dusty and there aren’t many amenities. Nevertheless, Robert McDonald rose to the BY occasion. ROBERT McDONALD

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  RIPPLE EFFECT Light and shadows play on the ripples and planes of Little Capitan Valley dunes on the Navajo Nation near Kayenta (pages 26-27). n To order a print of this photograph, see page 1.

PASTEL COAT In a northern view toward Hunts Mesa (above), soft pastel light coats Little Capitan Valley dunes just before dawn.

AFTERBURN Following sunrise, blazing summer-solstice sunlight reveals the sharp edge delineating the valley’s flat eastward and undulating westward faces (right). n To order a print of this photograph, see page 1.

PORTFOLIOA

 o c t o b e r 2008 LAVENDER BLACK As shadows lengthen toward day’s end (left), Chaistla Butte and Poras Dikes spike against the distant slopes of Black Mesa. n To order a print of this photograph, see page 1.

SUN BLOCK Comb Ridge buttresses Little Capitan Valley to the northeast (above), blocking the sun’s direct light on the dunes at dawn most of the year until its azimuth moves far enough north for about three weeks each June.

A

PORTFOLIO ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  SACRED MOMENT Summer monsoon clouds darken the sky over sacred daturas (above) standing their sandy ground in the Little Capitan Valley dunes, an area about 1 square mile on the Navajo Nation.

HAUNTING MELODY The stuff of myths and legends, the sound of moans, groans and drones may sometimes be heard in the dunes (left), caused by friction between sand and moisture (or lack of it) that leaves scientists puzzled. n To order a print of this photograph, see page 1.

PORTFOLIOA  o c t o b e r 2008

 Bisbee rhymes with Frisbee, and if you look hard enough, there’s probably

a piece of art in town made of the famous flying disc. Bisbee is like that. It’s full of hidden treasures, which is why it’s best explored on foot. Walk, don’t run. That’s the only way to appreciate Southern Arizona’s queen city.

b y G r e g o r y M c N a m e e

west of Bisbee, that historic ner’s dose of exercise. Both possibilities town nestled in the Mule WALK offer many attractions. JUST Mountains of Cochise I’m a perambulator myself, inclined County, stands an automobile tunnel. to a more philosophical approach to the Completed a half-century ago, it’s one of business of getting around. First comes the very few tunnels in Arizona — road a single step; another step follows, then builders out here, it seems, preferred to another, and we’re walking — something climb up and over the faces of rocky imped-­ our species learns at an early age. That’s iments rather than blast through them and reason enough to celebrate getting out of ruin a good thrill ride. Bisbee was noisier a vehicle and strolling. On an easy pass, back when the tunnel was built, when great a walker can burn 200 to 300 calories an machines hauled loads of copper from the hour, shedding pounds with minimal earth, and dynamite was readily available exertion, which makes it about the gen- to punch holes through mountains. tlest form of exercise there is. But the ben- The Mule Pass Tunnel is a fine thing as efits of walking go well beyond the purely tunnels go, but when I head to Bisbee, I pre- physical. More than any other activity, fer the old approach, over the Old Divide walking is a sure way to jump-start our Road. As its name hints, the road, which brains, to set thoughts in motion and climbs over Mule Mountain and over the calm our troubles. tunnel, crosses the Continental Divide at Prompted by modest exertions, our bod- an elevation of 6,030 feet. As it arcs its way ies — just minutes into a walk — begin up to the summit, the road affords superb to produce endorphins, chemical com- views of the town and the giant Copper pounds that reduce pain and stress, en­- Queen mine pit. Looking down into the hance memory and judgment, and increase town’s maze of winding streets, alleys and feelings of well-being as they course stairways, the view also suggests any num- into the brain. Along with endorphins, ber of routes an intrepid traveler can take walking produces increased levels of while getting around on foot. serotonin, an important brain neuro- Unlike newer, more spread-out cities in transmitter that further serves to reduce Arizona, Bisbee is hemmed in by rugged stress, which is why doctors increasingly mountains and steep canyons that confine recommend walking as a treatment for it to a walkable scale. Thanks to geography, mild depression and anxiety. the heart of Bisbee can be covered in a plea-­ That, I think, is the reason ancient sant hour. A more adventurous tour, heading Greek philosophers prided themselves on for higher ground and working one’s way being peripatetic — a fancy term for “walk­- along the rim of the mountains, can take ing around” — and why great thinkers hours longer, cover a much bigger chunk ever since have taken to the quiet lanes to of territory, and involve a marathon run- get their pondering done. Which brings THIS us to Brewery Gulch, the spiritual center of Old Bisbee, and a place where any ami- COLORFUL COMMUNITY Surrounded by the Mule Mountains southeast of Tucson, Bisbee is a able amble of Bisbee should begin. colorful destination (left) with a copper-mining Brewery Gulch has a brighter visage history and modern arts and crafts shops worthy of a day’s walkabout. Photograph by Peter than in days past, when, to put it chari-

Ensenberger  tably, many of its old pieces seemed in danger of crumbling to dust. Things have NUMBER 7 The door of a former miner’s residence (above), recovered during renovation, is displayed WAY been patched and painted and restored, at a Bisbee gallery. Photograph by Stephen Strom and new shops and galleries line the

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  

FAIR BIS-NESS Viewed from the intersection of Subway Street and Tombstone Canyon Road, the three-story Fair Building houses the Bisbee Restoration Museum. Photograph by Karen Strom

PEACE, BROTHER Painted by local artist Rose Johnson, Bisbee’s Peace Wall embellishes the base of Castle Rock. Photograph by Stephen Strom

BED SPRINGS The Inn at Castle Rock, built in 1902 as a rooming house, has a natural spring in its basement. Photograph by Karen Strom

ORANGE YOU GLAD YOU CAME? A private residence displays the homeowner’s fondness for orange. Photograph by Stephen Strom

winding road. Even so, chances are good stories continued, and he quit, thereafter the upper end of the street, which makes deeply eccentric décor is worth keeping. these trails offers fine views, with some at walking shoes and heading out the door that the people you’ll meet will have a to wander the streets of Bisbee like some a turn to the northeast at the geological To do so would fit in perfectly with the the higher elevations commanding vistas to Bisbee, Arizona’s pre-eminent point philosophical approach to the business landlocked ancient mariner. landmark called Castle Rock, where it overall spirit of the town, which has al­- that take in the whole town. of perambulation. Henry David Thoreau of making a living. In other words, one I haven’t seen him in years, but as I turns into Tombstone Canyon Road. ways been … well, deeply eccentric. But the streets aren’t the only places to sang the praises of “sauntering,” that is, works in order to live, but one does not wandered up Brewery Gulch on a recent I stop at the rock to pay homage to the If you look closely outside this impromptu explore here. No visit to Bisbee would be of walking with no destination or end live in order to work. “I got this job just bright, late-spring morning, I thought of ghost of miner George Warren, who lived museum, you’ll see what might be one of complete without at least a quick detour in mind, and he counseled that every because I needed to work for a couple of our last encounter. I was climbing a stair- alone below the rock, far from any other the greater architectural curiosities in all up the city’s signature staircases, nine of walk be undertaken in the spirit of some days a week,” said one young woman in way one moon-washed evening when he buildings, back in the 1880s. George was the land: The houses on the east side of the which comprise the course that marks unknown adventure, the walker prepared a beautifully appointed art gallery next came around a corner, silent as an owl, fond of the bottle and incapable of passing street are built atop thick concrete slabs the city’s annual 3-mile-long Bisbee 1000 for the unforeseen possibility of wonder. door to a suspiciously subversive render- and grinned at me. The moment might up a bet, and for a time he cooled his heels spanning a deep arroyo that flows swiftly Great Stair Climb, held on the third Sat- Thoreau knew that wonder would come, ing of the Mona Lisa. “I needed something have done Boo Radley proud, and I nearly in the Territorial insane asylum, but he every time it rains. Con­sidering that much urday of October. quickly and of its own accord, for, as we to give my life some structure and direc- jumped out of my skin until I made out still managed to make enough discoveries of Old Bisbee was burned to the ground in The course begins at the city park band saunter, poking along at a 3-mile-an-hour tion.” I sympathized, of course, but then the features of his face in the moonlight to have merited the city’s richest mining a catastrophic fire on October 14, 1908, shell up Brewery Gulch, climbing 73 fair- gait, we see and encounter things that, considered my deadlines and the mound and recognized him. I greeted the man, district being named for him. perhaps the builders felt more comfortable ly easy stairs. As it wanders up Brewery hidden behind walls or windshields, we of paper piled high atop my desk and and he treated me to a tour of the night It didn’t take long for Tombstone Can- having a source of flame-dousing water Canyon, the course then meets the 100-step would probably otherwise miss. So it is thought, a little grumpily, that I could use sky that would have cost a hefty admis- yon to get filled up with houses, and by so close at hand. More likely, the slabs set deemed Opera, leading to a road that in Old Bisbee. “Life is already too short a bit less structure and direction myself. sion fee at any planetarium worth visit- 1910, the lower elevations of Castle Rock offered a kind of solution to the shortage eventually arrives at the old opera house. to waste on speed,” Edward Abbey wrote I’ve been strolling up and down Brewery ing — a tour, I might add, whose details were lined with two- and three-story build­- of real estate in the narrow canyon — if The course flattens out along the aptly in The Journey Home, and he was right. Gulch for a third of a century now, and I remember vividly whenever that time of ings. Some of them, such as the magnifi- you want to build a house, first you have named High Road, and on to what’s called Down these winding paths lies plenty of it’s been ever thus. That is, in some circles year comes and the constellations line up cent Muirhead House, along with their to build someplace to put it, over water or the Subway. There, at the Bisbee Visitor evidence for why it’s well worth the trou- here, work is most definitely a four-letter in the same order. modern descendants, still stand there, in thin air, as the neighboring houses on Center, the course becomes more chal- ble to slow down — and plenty of unex- word. But, ambler that I am, I’ve taken at neat as a pin and happily shaded by tall stilts attest. lenging, assuming Everestlike proportions pected treasures as a reward. least some of my cues from an unchar- Brewery Gulch seems to be spruc- cottonwood trees. The architecture is a little improvisa- for the untrained stair-stomper. In quick acteristically ambitious walker who, no ing up a little, then Tombstone One of my favorite houses in the whole tional, a little iffy, but certainly interest- succession come the 181-step Maxfield Gregory McNamee is the author of Monumental matter where I was in town, could be seen Canyon has gone positively up- of Bisbee stands just beyond the rock. ing, and proof positive about what Tucson segment, the 79-step Spalding, and the Places (Arizona Highways Books, 2007), as well in the distance striding purposefully up a scale. Beginning below the city’s Once the town’s bus station, it’s been own-­ poet Richard Shelton wrote of Bisbee, a 151-step Rose. You’ll be forgiven if you as several other books. He lives in Tucson. hillside or down the canyon, ever in view. grande dame, the Copper Queen ed by a succession of bohemians and art- place in which, generation after genera- feel a little winded after all He knew the good paths, and I was care- IFHotel — Main Street passes the beauti- ists, the last of whom — one a painter, the tion, “everything breaks down and goes that climbing, but the hard ful to watch where he went and to follow fully refurbished Phelps-Dodge Mercantile other retired from a symphony — have wrong and everybody laughs, picks up work is done; all that’s left at a discreet distance, getting a good work- building, which now houses a couple of turned the exterior walls into a kind of the pieces and tries to patch them back now is to wander down Location: 95 miles southeast of Tucson out in the bargain. Stories were whispered restaurants, gift shops and offices. Main folk-art museum enshrining old bicycles, together again.” Clawson Avenue and back to Getting There: From Tucson, take Interstate 10 east to Benson, then State Route 80 south about 40 miles to about him, and they seldom agreed on par­- Street then winds past the Copper Queen Etch A Sketches, tools, hard hats, furni- Every street, every alleyway, every path the starting point, with a de­- Bisbee. Turn left at West Boulevard, then left onto ticulars — except that he’d been a NASA Library, established in 1882 and one of the ture, cooking utensils and other bric-a- in this part of town leads to a surprise — a tour down Tombstone Canyon Tombstone Canyon Road. scientist assigned to a tracking station in handsomest such institutions in Arizona. brac, all painted a can’t-miss shade of sculpture, a bank of stained-glass win- if you wish. Information: Bisbee Chamber of Commerce, 520-432-5421 or bisbeearizona.com; Bisbee Visitor Center, 520-432-3554 the middle of the Australian desert, where Bookstores, more restaurants, gift shops orange. The place is up for sale as I write, dows, a well-tended postage-stamp-sized You don’t have to have or discoverbisbee.com; annual Bisbee 1000 Great Stair he was alone for months at a time. The and a few antiques outlets that draw col- and I’m keeping my fingers crossed that garden, an old truck whose like hasn’t anything particular on your Climb, bisbee1000.org darkness and space were too much, the lectors from all over the country grace the new owner decides the admittedly been made for a half-century. Every one of mind to justify lacing up your  o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  By Kathleen Walker Photographs by Don b. It’s & Ryan b. Stevenson Down Chile There New Mexico gets most of the attention when it comes to chile peppers. And rightfully so. The thing is, if it weren’t for Ed Curry and his chile fields southeast of Tucson, New Mexico would be in a world of hurt. Turns out, Ed supplies 90 percent of the green chile seeds used in American agriculture.

Red Hot Chile Peppers The climate and soil of Southeastern Arizona offer ideal conditions for growing chiles, where, on his farm near Pearce, Ed Curry crossbreeds chile varieties to produce specific traits.

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  The smell of Southeastern Arizona hangs heavy in the fall air over Ed Curry’s fields. Dry, hot, but almost sweet in a way, the scent clings to your clothes, and later, to your memory. Down there in Pearce, 90 miles southeast of Tucson, Ed Curry grows chiles. And he does it well. His fields are thick with plants — chiles hanging like bunches of bananas from the low branches. Tromping out there dressed in the colors of green leaves and red chiles, Curry gives a shout. “You ain’t seen nothin’ yet,” he promises. That claim could send the players of the world’s chile industry into a state of hypersalivation. That’s because this farmer doesn’t just grow chiles, he creates chiles to meet the needs of the international marketplace and the palates of its customers. Want a mild chile? Need a chile with smooth skin? Want one with a distinct flavor? Call Ed down in Pearce. “Anyone can do it,” he says of the crossbreeding process necessary to produce a chile made to specifications. Then, he adds with a smile, “You need to live to be 150 years old to see the results.” Not quite, but it can take a lifetime of innovation out in the fields to earn the place where Curry now stands. According to the 2006 “Agricultural Experiment Station Research Report” from the University of Arizona, the Seed & Chile Company now supplies most of the seeds for the green chile business of the United States. “We’re about 90 percent of the industry,” Curry humbly confirms. But that’s not all. He also helps meet the country’s growing demand for cayenne and paprika. That makes Curry and the Arizona chile industry one of the state’s best-kept secrets. Southeastern Graham and Cochise counties offer ideal conditions for grow- ing chiles — endless sunshine, elevations higher than 4,000 feet and cool Lifetime Achievement It can take nights. But, when it comes to exercising bragging rights in the chile arena, a lifetime to produce high-quality, genetically designed chile seeds (below, left) that meet Arizona’s neighbor to the east gets most of the attention. growers’ needs. In New Mexico, folks have been extolling the virtues of their green chiles Top Seller Curry produced a chile vari- for decades. And with just cause. New Mexico ranks No. 1 in chile production, ety known as Arizona #20 (below) that is with 21,000 dedicated acres. By comparison, Arizona has about 7,000. prized for its consistent flavor and heat. In Tempe, the annual Salsa Challenge, set for April 25, 2009, attracts tens Muchos Anchos Curry inspects a field of thousands of visitors. And the Tucson Firefighters Chili Cook-Off (not yet of ancho chiles prior to harvest (right). Anchos scheduled at press time) feeds 10,000 or more every year. But, it’s the little are dried poblano chiles.

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  You tell them the best seed ‘‘ BASIC ‘‘in New Mexico comes from SALSA CRUDA INGREDIENTS Arizona, and that’s the truth. 1 serrano chile, diced (remov- ing seeds will reduce the heat) town of Hatch, New Mexico, that gets people the stewpots and the gardens of the 2 tablespoons white onion, drooling in anticipation of its yearly harvest. American continent. diced Nevertheless, what they’re growing over Columbus and his crew were the first 1 large, ripe plum tomato, there has a definite Arizona connection. Europeans to take note, and then posses- diced “It’s the same seed,” says veteran plant sion, of the tangy fruit of the New World. 2 tablespoons fresh cilantro, breeder Phil Villa. Now working out of Forty years later, the Spanish conquistado- chopped Camarillo, California, Villa has partnered res made their own chile discoveries in the ½ teaspoon corn oil with Curry in crossbreeding projects for markets and gardens of the Aztec empire. ½ teaspoon Key lime juice more than 30 years. The seed he refers to Once Europe, Asia, India, Africa and all A pinch of salt comes from the Arizona #20, the standard points east and west bit into this purely of the industry and the choice of most green American delight, they made it their own. chile growers. Curry developed that chile. Consider Hungary and its paprika-flavored DIRECTIONS “You tell them the best seed in New Mex- goulash, and South Korea, where chiles food companies and chile-growers around String ’Em Up Chile ristras (above), a Mix all ingredients together ico comes from Arizona, and that’s the now comprise more than 12 percent of that the world find their way to that farmer down popular Southwest decoration, adorn Arizona and let stand 1 hour to blend. shops and street corners at harvest time. 2 truth,” Villa says with a fiery dose of Arizona country’s daily diet. in Pearce. They, like the Genovese navigator Makes /3 cup. pride. For many people in Arizona, chile is a of old, search for new horizons. They want Fighting Fire With Fire Tucson Jean England Neubauer doesn’t have to term often limited to the familiar — the those nuances, the new flavors, the distinc- firefighters Bert Thomas (left) and Michael Source: Mad Coyote Joe Smith compete with other Pima County fire- worry about chile history arm-wrestling. greens and reds used in regional cooking. tive tastes and the bigger harvests. Some­ fighters to win first prize during the town’s Her focus is on what comes out of Curry’s We know the mild Anaheim of a chile rel- times, they want the impossible. annual chili cookoff held each autumn at fields now. At harvest time in the fall and leno, and the bite of the jalapeño in salsa, In 1995, a major food producer came to Presidio Park (below). winter, Curry takes the seeds of his plants, but the heat-loving chile comes in an infi- Curry with a request. “We want a red chile while Neubauer — as head of the Santa Cruz nite variety of colors, shapes and tastes. that peels,” they said of a chile that didn’t Chili & Spice Company in Tumacácori — The mulatto chile ripens to a chocolate exist. takes the rest. brown. The Scotch Bonnet looks like a tiny Eventually, they dropped the project, but In one year, she’ll use more than 500,000 hat. Terms we often attach to wines, are now not Ed. It took him a decade of crossbreed- pounds of Curry’s raw chiles for her line of used to describe chiles — an “earthy” red, a ing generations of chiles to create an easy- products, which includes Santa Cruz Chili “fruity” poblano. And the attention usually peel red, but he did, and he’ll release it when Paste, the backbone of the company. focuses on the heat of the chile. We go to he’s ready. As any farmer worth his harvest “As tomato paste is to Italian food, chile chile festivals to savor a brow-beading cup knows, the advantage comes with good paste is to Mexican food,” she says. of chili con carne. We teach our digestive timing — both nature’s and your own. Working with Curry, she can promise her systems who’s boss with a nip of habañero, So, for now, he tramples through his customers a clear taste of Arizona chiles. the king of hot. But we might be missing fields, shaking loose that dry, sweet, hot “Picked in the morning,” she says, “in the something. scent of the land and the green-leaved can by the afternoon.” Mad Coyote Joe, founder of the Mad Coy­ plants. Phil Villa joins him and calls out to While reading this piece, you might have ote Spice Company in Cave Creek, writes anyone listening, “Oh, look at that one over noted the change in spelling, from chile to and lectures on chiles. He says people can there. And this one right here.” chili. Industry buffs and chile aficionados overlook one of the true attributes of chiles, n Santa Cruz Chili & Spice Company is explain that chile refers to the raw product, what he refers to as the “delicate nuances.” lo­cated across from Tumacácori National and chili to prepared dishes. Until the late In his book, On the Chile Trail: 100 Great Historical Park. For more information, call 15th century, those chiles were limited to Recipes From Across America, there are 520-398-2591 or visit santacruzchili.com. pages of recipes that say more about the Kathleen Walker is a longtime contributor to Some Like It Hot The Santa Cruz Chili chile gourmand than the chile daredevil. Arizona Highways. She lives in Tucson, where & Spice Company in Tumacácori uses up to A touch of habañero, yes, but the title and she likes her days hot and her chiles mild. 500,000 pounds of Curry’s chiles per year to Photographers Ryan and Don Stevenson not produce their salsas, picante sauces, chile paste taste are cool in his chilled avocado soup only documented Arizona’s chile industry, they and spices (above, left). with Sonoran shrimp confetti. “It’s not about the heat,” he says of the roasted, prepared and ate nearly every variety Pepper Doctor The company also on Ed Curry’s farm, and they’re certain of one produces its Pure Mild Chili Pepper (left) at chile’s virtue. “It’s about the flavor.” thing: Ed Curry has the largest, meatiest and its facility in Tumacácori. Which is why representatives of major tastiest chiles they’ve ever eaten.

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  behind. On the way back, the QUIET ESCAPE Talwiwi ranger asked me what my Lodge sits in seclusion (right) near the Coronado Trail (U.S. name was, and I told him. He Route 191) in this view from said they didn’t have a name Escudilla Mountain. for the big flat up on Escudilla, Photograph by Jerry Jacka so they’d call it ‘Terry Flat.’ ” Five and a half miles 1,000 feet in 2.5 miles to the

adventure west of Alpine on U.S. Route Escudilla Trailhead.

180/191, we turned north onto Spanish explorers named Forest Road 56, and 2 miles the prominent landmark later, turned into the parking “Escudilla” because, from a dis- lot at Hulsey Lake. When we tance, it reminded them of an stepped out, the first sound inverted bowl. At 10,877 feet, we heard was the quiet. A Escudilla is one of the high- few mountain families were est mountains in Arizona, and fishing, but even the chil- also one of the most accessi- dren were playing quietly. My ble. All but the top of it was back road friend shot some photos of the logged in the early days. The quiet lake and the quiet people top, with patches of old- under a quiet sky. growth forest, was declared From Hulsey Lake, we a Wilderness in 1984. Since drove through a dry, over- nothing mechanical is allowed

By Jo Baeza By Jo Baeza grown forest of Engelmann in the Wilderness, mountain spruce, Douglas fir and aspens. bikers are required to leave On the south side of the road, their bikes at the trailhead. loose talus slopes drop steeply The 6-mile round-trip hike to a narrow draw far below. takes an average of three and From Hulsey’s 8,600-foot a half hours. elevation, we gained nearly From the trail­head, you

GLIMPSE OF GOLD Visitors to Escudilla Mountain’s Profanity Ridge (above) route finder might utter some nice words at the Note: Mileages are approximate. Terry Flat Loop sunset view of currant bushes and aspen trees in their autumn colors. > From the Alpine Ranger Station, go north 4.5 miles to Forest Elk, bears and even wolves can be seen on this drive, but the highlight Photograph by Robert McDonald Road 56 and turn right. is Terry Flat, the largest meadow in the Escudilla Wilderness. > Drive 2 miles on FR 56 to Hulsey Lake for a short stop. Then con- tinue another 2.5 miles to a fork. Take the left fork .5 miles to the can take a 6-mile-long narrow turned off U.S. 180/191 onto Escudilla Trailhead. If you hike the trail through the Escudilla Wilder- SCENIC BACK ROADS ARE Local wildlife includes deer, a logger and sawmill owner. cut] on the left side of the road. ness to the top, it will take up to four hours. dirt road that loops around FR 56. Thinking back on our just a turn-signal away in the antelopes, elk, bears, moun- She was right. The name was The ranger took the right. Terry Flat clockwise or coun- adventure, I noticed a phe- > You may continue on the Terry Flat Loop road clockwise around White Mountains, and the far- tain lions, turkeys, javelinas, established after the 23,000- They marked up to Paddy Fork the meadow, or go back to the fork and take the road counter- terclockwise. Terry Flat is the nomenon that’s common in ther east you drive, the more Rocky Mountain sheep, coy- acre Escudilla Fire in 1951, Tank. All the time, I ran along clockwise. It’s a 6-mile loop either way. largest of Escudilla’s many this part of the country — likely you are to have the back otes and Mexican gray wolves. which burned the entire > Drive back to U.S. 191 to return to Alpine. meadows. Ringed by forest, somewhere along the way, road to yourself. On this trip, We started our day trip at northeast side of the moun- travel tips the rolling meadow holds little we had grown quiet. To Show Low a friend and I headed to Terry the Alpine Ranger Station on tain and part of the top. The Vehicle Requirements: High- n 60 60 islands of bent trees that hud- Flat Loop and the Escudilla the west side of town. Part of Forest Service accepted log- clearance vehicle Springerville dle together against the wind. Warning: Back-road travel can Wilderness from the moun- any trip for me involves dig- ging bids to salvage what they ARIZONA When the side roads are dry, be hazardous, so beware of Eagar MEXICO NEW tain village of Alpine, which ging into the local history, and could of the 32 million board weather and road conditions. it’s safe to take them to some of 260 Carry plenty of water. Don’t sits near the Arizona-New I learned that Alpine was orig- feet of burned timber. Terry’s S the spectacular viewpoints on travel alone, and let someone To Pinetop- IN Nelson Reservoir Mexico border. inally called “Bush Valley,” father, E.O. Reidhead, was one Lakeside TA the rim of the plateau. know where you are going and N U APACHE-SITGREAVES 180 With an altitude of 8,050 after Anderson Bush, who set- of the bidders. when you plan to return. O This time of year, when the M NATIONAL FORESTS ESCUDILLA MOUNTAIN

Information: Apache-Sitgreaves 191 WILDERNESS feet, Alpine is surrounded by tled the town in 1876. In 1879, “I was about 3,” Terry says. E Es aspens turn color, Escudilla is T cu National Forests, Alpine Ranger I d H il a forest of ponderosa pines, Mormons began arriving from “I remember the district ranger, Nutrioso la crowned with gold. In the District, 928-339-5000; www.fs. W Hulsey Lake M spruce, fir and aspens. It’s Utah. They colonized the val- Lafe Kartchner, went with o spring, the aspens are a shim- fed.us/r3/asnf/recreation/ u 6 n 5 t n a hub of outdoor recreation, ley and changed the town’s us in Dad’s ’51 Ford pickup. wilderness and www.fs.fed.us/ R a mering, luminescent green. For more back-road adventures, F i n including hiking, moun- name to “Alpine.” We took the old log road that r3/asnf/recreation/scenic. And in the summer, the mead- pick up a copy of our book, The Back Roads. Now in its fifth edi- tain biking, horseback rid- I then asked the reception- went to the top. We were right Travelers in Arizona can Terry Flat Loop ows are splashed with a stun- visit az511.gov or dial 511 to get Alpine tion, the book ($19.95) features 40 ing, camping, fishing, hunting, ist how Terry Flat got its name. above Hulsey Lake. Dad took infor­ma­tion on road closures, ning array of wildflowers. of the state’s most scenic drives. To 191

birding, wildlife photogra- She said she thought it was out a marking hammer and construction, delays, weather Kevin Kibsey By the end of our trip, we 180 order a copy, call 800-543-5432 phy and just plain looking. named after Terry Reidhead, began marking timber [to be and more. To Clifton had driven 64 miles since we or visit arizonahighways.com.

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  of the Kaibab. This time of year, however, snow show- ers are more likely. Either way, beware of changing weather conditions. A sign at the mouth of Jacob Canyon refers to a “route,” open to hikers, bicyclists and horseback riders. It’s a sliver of the month of a trail winding up the dry

wash, which is layered with small pebbles and overgrown with thorny New Mexican

hike locusts. More than likely, yours will be the first hiking boots in awhile to tackle the unmaintained path. Usually, only deer tracks and horse- shoe prints are visible. Occasional rock cairns mark the way, but mostly, this is a walk up the streambed, with easy footing and a gentle incline. Burnished cliffs scribe the skyline, and in places, the route passes through portals of truck-sized boulders. The canyon, like other determined to locate a bet- low-bellied ponderosas appear VERMILION VIGOR Oak trees broad- places in the area, bears the ter, shorter route across the a little higher up, and then cast their vivid colors in front of a rocky ledge at the bottom of Jacob name of Jacob Hamblin, the Colorado River, even wran- comes a niche of Douglas Canyon.

by Rose Houk photographs Steve Bruno Mormon pathfinder and mis- gling the makings of wooden firs, maples and wild clematis. sionary who began exploring boats across the Kaibab by Snowberries, currants, Apache left for the main route and this country in 1858, head- wagon. After several tries, plumes, fernbushes, paint- continue the ascent as far as ing from southern Utah to Hamblin finally pioneered a brushes, penstemons, lupines you’d like, until raindrops — the Hopi mesas in Northern crossing of the Colorado at and geraniums add to the mix. or even snowflakes — hit the Arizona in search of native modern-day Lee’s Ferry. As you head up the can- ground. For the return, simply converts and new settlements Jacob Canyon comes with yon, the path sashays across retrace your steps, savoring for Mormon colonists. Guided more than history, though. It’s the rocky creek, and about a the views, the plants and the by Paiutes, Hamblin followed also an arboretum with tre- mile in, the canyon forks. Stay remoteness of the place. this logical break in the for- mendous botanical variety. midable flank of the Kaibab Dusty sagebrush and cone- on his first expedition. For heavy piñon pines grow at n 89a another 10 years, he was the mouth of the canyon, yel- H FR 422A O U

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trail guide

R CATCHING THE SUN Bursting O 89a Length: Varies FR 243 Jacob Lake C K with yellow splendor, oak Difficulty: Easy FR 461 trees in the Kaibab National FR 22 V Jacob Canyon FR 462 A Elevation Gain: 4,500 to 6,500 feet Forest’s Jacob Canyon catch LL Getting There: From Flagstaff, follow U.S. Route 89 for 102 miles to Bitter E Y Looking for solitude? More than likely, you’ll be the first the late-afternoon sunlight. K A IBA B person in awhile to hit this trail on the North Rim. Springs, then take U.S. Route 89A northwest to Jacob Lake. Turn left onto NATIONAL FOREST State Route 67, go 0.3 miles south and turn right onto Forest Road 461. The er iv road drops down through Warm Springs Canyon. Take this road 6.4 miles 67 R

and turn right onto Forest Road 462. In 2.1 miles, take a right onto Forest U o MOST PEOPLE KNOW THE from House Rock Valley to the The west side of the pla- once looked to strike it rich. d A a E r Road 22. Go another 3 miles to Forest Road 422A; turn right and go 1.1 o T l Kaibab Plateau as the for- small settlement of Jacob Lake, teau, deep within the Kaibab One of the largest side can- A o miles to Forest Road 243 (watch closely for this turn). The road narrows L C P

ested promenade that leads to which sits at nearly 8,000 feet National Forest, gets far fewer yons to crease this part of the considerably in about a mile and dead-ends at a turnaround at the B A I B the North Rim of the Grand above sea level. There, they visitors. Instead, this is the plateau is Jacob Canyon, about trailhead. K A Kevin Kibsey To Grand Canyon Canyon. And most approach gas up, grab a burger and a working side of the mountain 14 miles from Jacob Lake. Travel Advisory: A high-clearance vehicle is advisable for the last mile of unpaved road to the trailhead. Carry water. No amenities. the rising swell from the east milkshake, and head to the where ranchers run cattle, log- In late summer, storm Information: Kaibab Plateau Visitors Center, www.fs.fed.us/r3/kai or 928- online For more hikes in Arizona, visit our Hiking Guide side, winding up the road Canyon’s edge. gers cut trees, and prospectors clouds billow over the brow 643-7298 at arizonahighways.com.

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM  Built to Last You’re looking at the 13th century Southwestern equivalent of a Manhattan brownstone. Indeed, its name is an Anglicization of a word essentially meaning brownstone. (The true name was probably a reference to the snake grass growing in the “yard.”) Built between a.d. 1250 and 1350, the complex would have covered roughly four city blocks, housing around 1,000 people in 600 rooms. It was surely a hotbed of drama. Today, a different tribe manages it, preserving the culture and stories contained in these crumbling brown stones. where is this? where is arizonahighways.com @ editor

TOM BEAN Our most romantic dinner together wasn’t one set to candlelight. It was Win a collection of our most popular books! To enter, correctly identify the location featured above and e-mail your answer to [email protected] — type “Where Is This?” in the subject line. Entries can also be sent to 2039 W. Lewis Avenue, Phoenix, AZ 85009. Please include your name, address and phone number. One winner will be bathed in the stunning golden light of dusk, followed by all the neon colors chosen in a random drawing of qualified entries. Entries must be postmarked by October 15, 2008. Only the winner will be notified. The correct answer will be posted in our December issue and online at arizonahighways.com beginning November 1. August 2008 Answer: Hackberry General Store. Congratulations to our winner, MaryAnn White of Paso Robles, CA. of a Sonoran Desert sunset. It was one of those evenings we will never forget – an experience that will always shine on in our memories. VISITPHOENIX.COM

 o c t o b e r 2008 ARIZONAHIGHWAYS.COM 

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