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Development and Evaluation of Cotton, Wool, and Mohair Blend Fabrics and Assessment of Consumer Response

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Development and Evaluation of Cotton, Wool, and Mohair Blend Fabrics and Assessment of Consumer Response DEVELOPMENT AND EVALUATION OF COTTON, WOOL, AND MOHAIR BLEND FABRICS AND ASSESSMENT OF CONSUMER RESPONSE by JAYNE ELIZABETH GEISSLER, B.S., M.S.H.E. A DISSERTATION IN CLOTHING, TEXTILES, AND MERCHANDISING Submitted to the Graduate Faculty of Texas Tech University in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for the Degree of DOCTOR OF PHILOSOPHY Approved May, 1993 I'. A^i - 1^ \^r^^ ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ^-^^^ "^/^ ./Jo* V ' ^ ) " The author's efforts in researching, synthesizing, and writing this dissertation were supported directly and indirectly by a number of people. I am extremely grateful to Dr. Patricia Horridge, chairperson of the committee, for her guidance, encouragement, and leadership for the duration of this project She has become both a mentor and a friend over the years. I am appreciative for the consistent support, encouragement, and professional advice of my committee members Dr. Christopher Lupton, Dr. Samina Khan, Dr. Dennis Harp, Dr. Edward Anderson, and Dr. Marie Gentry. I would also like to acknowledge Dr. Eleanor Woodson who was instrumental in my pursuing graduate school many years ago. I am extremely grateful to the Texas Food and Fibers Commission and the Mohair Council of America, who provided financial support for the project. I am indebted to John Price and the International Center for Textile Research and Development for their contributions to the research. A special thank-you goes to my parents, Robert and Jeanne Schroeder, who instilled in me the value of hard work, a good education, and an independent nature. I am appreciative of the support of my in-laws, Elmer and Joan Geissler, and my dear friends, Marsha Schmitt and Deborah Young, who have taught me many things beyond the scope of research. Finally, I thank my husband, Dave, and my children, Kyle, Abra, and Kevin, who have been encouraging and understanding of my pursuit of academic endeavors, yet have shown me the importance of "stopping to smell the roses" (as well as swim meets, soccer tournaments, and baseball games). n TABLE OF CONTENTS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS ii ABSTRACT vi LIST OF TABLES viii LIST OF FIGURES x LIST OF TERMS AND ABBREVIATIONS xii CHAPTER I. OVERVIEW 1 II. DEVELOPMENT AND EVALUATION OF COTTON, WOOL, AND MOHAIR BLEND FABRICS 6 Review of Literature 6 Fibers 6 Blends 10 Yarns 12 Fabrications 15 Finishes 16 Fabric Care 17 Purpose and Research Questions 19 Methodology 20 Description of the Sample 20 Procedure 20 Data Analysis and Results 30 Composite Summary 30 Research Question 1 32 Research Question 2 44 HI Summary and Conclusions 79 Industry Performance Standards 80 Significant Dimensions 82 III. ASSESSMENT OF CONSUMER RESPONSE TO COTTON, WOOL, AND MOHAIR BLEND FABRICS 85 Introduction 85 Review of Literature 85 Consumers' Evaluation of Apparel 86 Concept Testing 94 Methodology 96 Sample 97 Research Instrument 97 Pilot Study 97 Collection of Research Data 98 Statistical Analysis of Data 99 Research Questions 100 Data Analysis and Results 103 Description of the Sample 104 Rehabihty of the Questionnaire 105 Fiber Characteristics Scale 109 Purchase Decision Scale Ill Analysis of Research Questions Ill Mohair Apparel Consumer Profile 121 IV Summary and Conclusions 124 Consumer Response to the Six Experimental Fabrics 124 Consumer Characteristics 126 IV. SUMMARY, CONCLUSIONS, AND RECOMMENDATIONS 128 Summary of the Study 130 Summary of the Findings 132 Phase 1-Physical Testing of the Fabrics 133 Phase 2—Consumer Response 134 Discussion of the Findings 136 Physical Testing 136 Consumer Survey 144 Conclusions 150 Recommendations for Future Research 152 REFERENCES 154 APPENDICES A. QUESTIONNAIRE 161 B. COVER LETTER 168 C. FOLLOW-UP POSTCARD PILOT STUDY 170 D. FOLLOW-UP POSTCARD MAIN STUDY 172 E. FOLLOW-UP COVER LETTER 174 F. SURVEY RESPONDENTS BY STATE 176 ABSTRACT The textile and apparel industry is one of the most vital manufacturing industries in the United States, producing over $25 bilhon each year in textile products. The production and use of natural fibers are key elements in the textile and apparel industry, with Texas being a major contributor. Texas produces over 32% of the nation's cotton and 18% of the nation's wool. In addition, over 90% of U.S. mohair originates in Texas. In order to remain competitive in an increasingly global market, it is imperative that the textile and apparel complex continually create new fabric forms and ascertain consumer demand and preferences. The two primary objectives for this study were: (1) Phase I—design, produce, and physically test six experimental fabrics utilizing a cotton warp and wool/mohair blend fillings, and (2) Phase Il-survey females nationally as to consumer (a) response to the six experimental fabrics, (b) intent to purchase the experimental fabrics, and (c) characteristics in regard to fibers and purchase decisions. In addition, a profile of the mohair apparel consumer was sought. In Phase I, the results of the physical testing of the experimental fabrics were compared to industry standards. Acceptable parameters were warp breaking strength and tear resistance, dimensional stability to laundering and drycleaning in the filhng direction, and pilhng. Unacceptable dimensions included filling breaking strength and tear resistance, warp dimensional stability to laundering, and durable press appearance. A random sample of 1,000 females in the United States, age 18 and over were mailed a self-administered questionnaire to obtain information in Phase II vi regarding their response to the experimental fabrics. Consumers (n = 569) rated five of the six fabrics "extremely good" or "excellent." The sixth fabric was rated "very good" to "extremely good." When questioned as to the likehhood of purchasing the experimental fabrics, 82% responded "probably would purchase" or "definitely would purchase" if the fabric care indicated was "machine wash/tumble dry." In regard to fiber characteristics, consumers indicated that mohair was more comfortable than wool, and natural fiber fabrics have better quahty than synthetic fiber fabrics. When making an outerwear purchase decision, consumers responded that flattering style, comfort of the garment and fabric, color, and quality of construction were important factors. The mohair apparel consumer was employed full-time and had some college education. Median household income was in the $40,000-$49,000 range. The age of the mohair apparel consumer was 41-50 years old. Mohair apparel was worn 1-10 times a year, with the last purchase being within 1-5 years. vn LIST OF TABLES 2.1 Physical Description of the Six Experimental Fabrics 21 2.2 Performance Evaluation 26 2.3 Descripfion of Six Experimental Fabrics by Composite Mean of Care Method and Treatment Cycles 31 2.4 Performance Standards Used by Lands' End, Inc., for Suit, Slacks, and Trouser Fabrics 34 2.5 Warp Mean Breaking Strength (lbs.) by Fabric at Designated Treatment Cycles 35 2.6 Filling Mean Breaking Strength (lbs.) by Fabric at Designated Treatment Cycles 36 2.7 Warp Mean Tear Resistance (grams) by Fabric at Designated Treatment Cycles 38 2.8 Filling Mean Tear Resistance (grams) by Fabric at Designated Treatment Cycles 39 2.9 Warp Mean Shrinkage (percent) by Fabric at Designated Treatment Cycles 40 2.10 Filling Mean Shrinkage (percent) by Fabric at Designated Treatment Cycles 42 2.11 Mean Pilling Resistance Rating Values by Fabric at Designated Treatment Cycles 43 2.12 Mean Durable Press Rating Values by Fabric at Designated Treatment Cycles 45 2.13 Three-Way ANOVA and Scheffe's Multiple Comparison Test Results-Influence of Fiber Content, Fabrication, and Care Method on Warp Breaking Strength 48 2.14 Three-Way ANOVA and Scheffe's Multiple Comparison Test Results-Influence of Fiber Content, Fabrication, and Care Method on Filling Breaking Strength 49 2.15 Three-Way ANOVA and Scheffe's Multiple Comparison Test Results-Influence of Fiber Content, Fabrication, and Care Method on Warp Tear Resistance 55 vni 2.16 Three-Way ANOVA-Influence of Fiber Content, Fabrication, and Care Method on Filling Tear Resistance 56 2.17 Three-Way ANOVA and Scheffe's Multiple Comparison Test Results-Influence of Fiber Content, Fabrication, and Care Method on Warp Dimensional Stability 62 2.18 Three-Way ANOVA and Scheffe's Multiple Comparison Test Results-Influence of Fiber Content, Fabrication, and Care Method on Filling Dimensional Stability 63 2.19 Three-Way ANOVA and Scheffe's Multiple Comparison Test Results-Influence of Fiber Content, Fabrication, and Care Method on Pilling Resistance 68 2.20 Three-Way ANOVA and Scheffe's Multiple Comparison Test Results-Influence of Fiber Content, Fabrication, and Number of Launderings on Durable Press Appearance 74 2.21 Summary of Experimental Fabrics' Performance Compared to Standards Used by Lands' End, Inc 81 2.22 Summary of Significant Dimensions 83 3.1 Survey Responses 106 3.2 Respondents by Region 107 3.3 Respondents by Selected Demographics 108 3.4 Summary Table for Fiber Characteristics Scale 110 3.5 Summary Table for Purchase Decisions Scale 112 3.6 Survey Respondents by Fabric 113 3.7 Profile of the Mohair Apparel Consumer 122 3.8 Composite Summary of Consumer Response to the Six Experunental Fabrics 125 F.l Survey Respondents by States 177 IX LIST OF FIGURES 2.1 The Effect of Fiber Content, Fabricafion, and Care Method on Warp Breaking Strength 50 2.2 The Effect of Fabrication and Care Method on Warp Breaking Strength 51 2.3 The Effect of Fabrication and Care Method on Filling Breaking Strength 52 2.4 The Effect of Fiber Content and Fabrication on Filling Breaking Strength
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