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Editorial | Haukur S Magnússon The Reykjavík Grapevine Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík
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www.grapevine.is www.grapevine.is YOUR FREE COPY FREE YOUR Haukur’s 27th Editorial COPY FREE YOUR Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 25.000 copies. Editorial: +354 540 3600 / [email protected] Advertising: Cover Illustrations by: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Þorbjörn Ingason Publisher: www.tingason.com +354 540 3601 / [email protected] Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson / [email protected] MUSIC Editor: & Haukur S Magnússon / [email protected] NIGHT Journalist: LIFE Rebecca Louder / [email protected] Contributing Writers: Ben Frost TRACK OF THE ISSUE Dr. Gunni Ian Watson Jim Rice It is sometimes said about Akureyri that it is pivotal in rendering life here bearable. The most Download your Stephanie Orford the most delightful place in Iceland – until its important thing in Reykjavík, the BEST OF THE free copy at Magnús Sveinn Helgason grapevine.is inhabitants wake up. I am not sure exactly how to BEST OF REYKJAVÍK. Marc Vincenz Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl interpret that, but I guess it’s supposed to mean And this is its people. Bob Cluness that the good people of Akureyri greatly draw Don’t get me wrong. I have nothing against Íris Erlingsdóttir Alexander Roberts from the town’s appeal. commerce. Or restaurants. Or swimming pools or
This isn’t true of course. The people of bars. Those are all great. I’m just sorta thinking Editorial Interns: Akureyri are alright, as anyone who’s been there that it’s kinda skunkly to suggest that most of our Alexandra Young / [email protected] can attest. The joke is still sorta funny. Ha. BEST OF REYKJAVÍK has to be bought and paid Allison Savage / [email protected] Emily Burton / [email protected] Anyway. The issue you are now reading is our for. TRACK OF THE ISSUE second annual BEST OF REYKJAVÍK edition, All of the best, most life affirming moments On-line News Editor Paul Nikolov / [email protected] wherein we try to highlight and big-up some of I’ve experienced in this town have come for free, Seabear Food Editor: the things that make living here (or visiting here, or at least I didn’t need to pay for them with any Catharine Fulton for that matter) a bit more awesome. It is our officially recognised form of currency. They have Wolfboy Art Director: attempt to celebrate and draw attention to all sorts come through interacting with the people, paying Hörður Kristbjörnsson / [email protected] seabear Design: of stuff that we feel enriches our lives and adds visits to friends and family, chance encounters on Download at www.grapevine.is Páll Hilmarsson / [email protected] flavour to them. the street, heavy debates, smiling faces and lost Senior Design Consultant: We spent a lot of time working on it. Shitloads arguments. What a lovely band Seabear is. They are always such a Jóhannes Kjartansson / www.joi.is Photographer: of time. And so did you guys, actually. Most of Yes. My favourite thing about the city of nice little pick-me-up when the skies are grey and the Julia Staples / juliastaples.com what’s in there is based on your suggestions and/ Reykjavík is all the excellent people that have heart is heavy. Their gentle, twinkly folk-pop has been making us smile and snap our fingers since they put Sales Director: or comments. We are sorta proud of it all, and we made it their home, and/or like to pay it a visit Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] out their first album; the runaway hit ‘The Ghost That Guðmundur Rúnar Svansson / [email protected] hope you can draw some enjoyment from it, too. from time to time. Carried Us Away.’ After a three-year wait, they finally Distribution: Now. I’m writing this as we are minutes away released a new album, ‘We Built A Fire’, for us to tap our [email protected] from sending this issue off to the printers, and I You are my personal BEST OF. Thank you. toes to and boy do we love it! Proofreader: Jim Rice have been pondering some of its contents. And We are super-happy to offer you this track off that new album. It’s called ‘Wolfboy’ and it is totally Press releases: I’ve come to realise that something about this all infectious and adorable! It’s full of bounce and snappy [email protected] sorta bugs me. rhythm countered by sleepy lead vocals and lilting Submissions inquiries: Bear with me. strings, but also plenty of ooh-wah-ooh-ability. It really [email protected] Subscription inquiries: While I think that it is cool that we get to make just makes you want to throw your hands over your head +354 540 3605 / [email protected] an issue celebrating our town and some of the carelessly and howl like a happy little wolf! Ah-oooooo! General inquiries: [email protected] Also, check out their interview somewhere in this things that go on in it, I can’t help but think that Founders: issue. If you like them, you should probably go to their Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, we are missing an important aspect, one that is release show, too. Hörður Kristbjörnsson, Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, Comic | Lóa Hjálmtýsdóttir Valur Gunnarsson
The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in part without the written permission of the publishers. The Reykjavík Grapevine is distributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Seyðis- fjörður, Borgarnes, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key locations along road #1, and all major tourist attractions and tourist information centres in the country.
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Climbing Super-Jeep Caving Horse Riding Sightseeing Snowmobile Whale Watch ATV Incentive MOST AWESOME LETTER Sour grapes A buncha POLAR BEER for your thoughts We're not gonna lie to you: we really love us some beers. Some folks would call it a problem, but beer never gave us any problems. In fact, over the years, and stuff it's solved most of 'em. A frosty glass of cold, frothy, bubblicious, golden- tinted beer has consistently failed to let us down. In the immortal words of the Say your piece, voice your opinion, once-reputable Homer J. Simpson: "Mmm... Beer..." send your letters to: [email protected] Now, since we're real pleasant and giving folks here at the Grapevine, we thought we'd share some wonderful POLAR BEER with you, our readers. Not only that, you're also getting the gift of social life with it. So here's the deal: our most awesome letter of each issue (henceforth, or until the good people of POLAR BEER decide they don't want to play along anymore), we will be providing our MOST AWESOME LETTER scribe with twelve frothy POLAR BEERS, to be imbibed at a Reykjavík bar of their choice (so long as 4 that bar is either Bakkus or Venue). If y'all's letter is the one, drop us a line to collect. Give us your worst: [email protected] Letters (Light)
Hello Haukur! We wanted to wish you a Happy National MOST AWESOME LETTER: Day! It has been quite the year for Iceland. I have designed another graphic celebrating Hi! Iceland’s National Day. It depicts the Eyjafjal- lajökul eruption with all of its energy: I saw an interview with Vooral Gerard in The Reykjavik Grapevine. I am sorry these people lost their money, but it is not the Icelandic taxpayers to blame or their responsibility. 25 million Dear Angel and Andy, euros is maybe not so much but this amount is the same as 1.25 billion euros for the Dutch tax- payers as there are 50 times more of the Dutch than Icelanders. Would Holland pay 1.25 billion thanks so much for always staying in touch, euros unless forced to? What would the Dutch taxpayers say? Every country should be respon- sharing your work and and writing us your sible for the banks operating in their own country, but not any overseas branches which are letters. It's really reassuring to know there are regulated by the authorities of the country in question. Dutch authorities gave Icelandic banks people like you out there. Also, your illustra- the green light for the icesave accounts. Obviously 320 thousand people could not back up and tion looks very cool indeed! guarantee billions of euros. Dutch authorities are therefore to blame, not Icelandic taxpayers.
Godspeed! EU does not want to regulate the financial sector. They want to give it a free play and when everything goes down, they send the bill to the taxpayers. Who made up this system? The Ice- landers? Icelandic taxpayers did not give the green light on the icesave accounts in Holland, it was Dutch authorities that did so and failed. Icelandic authorities also failed, but we all knew Dear Grapevine. they were incompetent and naturally they lied to the Dutch authorities. Icelandic banks were run by gangsters which were protected by the corrupt Right Wing party up here. Why should I, the undersigned, am most unsatisfied with I care? I am not the police? I do not make the law in EU! Dutch authorities could just have your recent intimation (in your recent article checked Iceland on Wikipedia and realized that the nation is only 320 thousand people and about my most awesome self), that I, the then realize that they could not back up billions of euros. undersigned, am a smoker. Nothing could be further from the truth. In fact, what i was The Dutch authorities should compensate and give these people the 25 million euros. Fair holding was a dummy cigarette as prepara- would be that we Icelanders pay 1 : 50. No problem with me. EFTA can say what it likes. If Ice- tion for my future role in the dramatization land takes the responsibility for the 25 million euros, many others will follow with something of Davíð Oddson's "Final Days" which de- totaling billions of euros. No country will accept responsibility for amounts that will make it picts the days before his tragic suicide. bankrupt. I suspect that the Dutch authorities are using these people. They are loud and they want their I am shocked that the respectful Grapevine money from the bad Icelanders. Their voice is heard in the Dutch media and this serves the should depict me as a smoker. My father Dutch Government just fine. They are being used and manipulated by their own Government. reads this, you know... Best regards Love, Ólafur Arnalds Einar Dear Ólafur, Dear Einar, it is very cool that your father reads us! Mad props to him! Oh dear. Who is to blame? Who is responsible? Who should pay whom? Won’t somebody please think of the children!? Anyway, our journalist with whom you spoke wishes to extend her sincerest apologies for We wish we had the answers too, but you gotta understand where the guy is coming from at the blatant defamation of character that was least? A little? Maybe? No? Okay, fair enough. implied when she faslely accused you of having such a filthy, disgusting, decadently You know, you probably said what a lot of people out there are thinking, and you managed to delicious habit. She has been severely ad- word it pretty well, too. The Dutch government SHOULD have looked us up on Wikipedia monished and won’t be allowed to smoke before allowing us to open up a banking operation there. It only makes sense! Folks seem to cigarettes until the next issue is published screen and scrutinize their potential dates way more than the Dutchies seem to have checked (we can say that in here because her parents out Landsbanki. know she smokes. Because she’s an adult and stuff). You know, this definitely is an awesome letter (it made us smile a lot, anyway) and if anything it has earned you a half-dozen chilly Polar Beers to chug on. We will make sure in the future that our staff doesn't confuse method-acting techniques with real life. And please let us know when As for that whole Spain/France confusion... “Final Days” hits the stage. Sounds like a fun ehrm. Well. It would have been really, really show! helpful had you sent your letter a little bit sooner. I totally embarrassed myself all over PS – what’s an “intimation”? Sounds fancy! Madrid trying to order some croissant while asking for directions to the gay nightclubs and the Louvre.
Dear Haukur, It took me like three days to figure out my I read grapevine with joy and hope the jour- error, at which point I had totally missed my nal will continue to live long. This message chance to visit the MoMA. Next time you spot is just to remind you that cafes and crois- me being so erroneous, RUN, don’t walk, to sants, the Louvre, the 5th arrondissement your computer to tell me! and its gay nightclubs and also the movie l'irreversible come from France and not from ONE LOVE Spain as you indicated. For foreigners visit- ting beautifull Iceland, it might make they think we do not know... May be this can be corrected ! Except if going to Spain makes you think of France and Paris because you had such a good time there... Whatever the reason, I will be glad to read your explana- tions in the next edition. Continue the pas- sion and enthousiasm. Regards,
Christophe
Dear Christophe, thank you so much for your lovely letter, and your kind words! They mean a lot, they really do. HVÍTA HÚSI / SÍA - 10-0338
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Response | Jim Rice Response | Ben Frost We Aren't The Government Regarding Grapevine’s proofreader responds to Vooral Gerard van Vliet Styrmir Gunnarsson
As the part-time proofreader for the Grapevine, I attractive interest rate wasn’t a factor in why he rarely submit for publication. I tend to prefer to re- chose Icesave over similar Dutch options? I don’t serve my opinions for the academic forum where buy that for a second. the conventions of style dictate a reserved, schol- Vooral Gerard van Vliet makes some valid arly approach and which puts a lid on my usual points, and I am not trying to mock his plight. But state of indignation. And this is a forum where I the acerbic tone in my response was wrought from am guaranteed that my views will be received by this line: “If your administrators, your govern- an audience of dozens. A select few get to see my ment guys, your statesmen are fucking up, then vitriolic side—the editor of this publication being the whole of the nation carries the burden.” And, one. This usually comes in the form of tirades as he continues, “That's the bad part of democra- about what I perceive as racist/sexist/homopho- cy.” bic/disableist language in some submissions that Well, since Mr. van Vliet seems fond of profan- I vent upon in emails to the editor. I suppose our ity laced discourse, I shall reply in kind. Not...a... esteemed editor was amused this time around and fucking...chance. Are you seriously trying to sug- There was a time in the not distant past when I of the aforementioned jerks are accountable to suggested turning my blatherings into a public gest that people with multiple and profound physi- would have bought all of what he had to say in anyone: this is why Bruxelles scares them, plain response. cal and/or intellectual disabilities living in insti- Grapevine’s last issue. However, in light of our and simple. We are owned from within, and the The piece in question is ‘Deal With It: Vooral tutionalised or semi-institutionalised situations current (and past) circumstances, there is just no irony with which this man stands on his soap box Gerard van Vliet On Why Iceland Needs to Pay the share one iota of responsibility in this? That their other name for this than nationalist alarmism. All after being replaced at the national newspaper by Icesave Depositors,’ by Paul Nikolov. I have never services and support systems that are now under of his points are totally redundant if not solely for one of the most deplorable members of team 'let's- met Paul in person, oddly enough, but I have had threat is not problematic because it is part of their the fact that Iceland has never even tried negotiat- fuck-Iceland' would be hilarious were it not so respect for his opinions over the years—even more ‘collective responsibility’ of their happening to ing with the EU over its resources—as it stands we nauseating. And this is the problem; the majority so now as an interviewer. After reading this piece I live in Iceland? Please. Having an impairment, of don't actually know a goddamned thing. of the population thinks it’s ok that Davíð Oddsson have no idea how Mr. Nikolov managed to conceal course, does not exclude one from the responsi- Perhaps this is one of those 'lost in translation' is now controlling a once respected media source the emotions I would have felt at the arrogance dis- bilities and the general duties of being a citizen. moments, where old men scream independence largely because he is an ‘Icelander.’ He is one of played by Mr. Vooral Gerard van Vliet. Here are But I am talking about people who have been side- and what they are actually trying to say is "fuck us, so when he manipulates reality, and history it’s my proverbial two cents, or three. lined and marginalised by the larger society who you Denmark!" rather than the slightly more OK, because he does it ‘independently.’ I am an anthropologist currently working in are now supposed to pay for the excesses of the succinct dictionary version. It seems to me all of I think Iceland has Stockholm Syndrome. disability studies in Iceland. I do not claim to have financial sector. It’s a strange position to adopt for the public backlash against the EU negotiation is What we have failed to comprehend or address very thorough knowledge of economics, business a humanitarian—and if this argument sounds fa- firmly rooted in a history which has nothing to in this debate is the fact that Iceland never really or the particulars of the Icesave fiasco. But one miliar, it is. Mr. van Vliet seems concerned about do with contemporary circumstances. The politi- had independence (I include myself in that equa- does not need to have specialist knowledge to take marginalised and disempowered people in Ke- cal backlash, however, has its roots in far darker tion because, like I said, until recently I was really exception with some of the points raised by Vooral. nya—and kudos for that—but this is a reminder places (I’ll get to them in a moment). buying all this anti-Euro rhetoric—yeah, protect Yes, it is terrible that people lost their money that there are people who are disempowered in all Pray tell Ó Granddad of Independent Iceland the nation!). But Iceland is part of the world and due to the greed and seemingly criminal activities regions of the globe, sometimes the result of simi- what we have left to lose by going into talks with depends on other nations for almost everything, of the Icelandic banking sector, as well as certain lar forces. Bruxelles and actually testing out and fielding your especially the members of the EU, and yet, we political elements who put their trust in ideolo- If he lost money in a Kenyan bank, would this grave concerns? The fishing industry is already are currently democratically barred from hav- gies and theoretical models ahead of good busi- ‘collective responsibility’ apply to the children he lost—it is owned and manipulated by a tiny group ing any say in the way in which it runs. I cannot ness sense, or even common sense. I share Mr. advocates for? The arrogance and dismissive atti- of extremely wealthy men, not by you or the Ice- think of anything more subservient. And yet, Ice- van Vliet’s anger about that. But please don’t play tude Mr. van Vliet displays when he is challenged landic people (you are currently being denied your land is clutching onto this word, "independence," the ‘saving children in Africa’ card to justify why on the point that this debt could become the prob- human rights under that arrangement, according like a child with the last piece of chocolate cake, you want your money back. I have my own suspi- lem of unborn generations of Icelanders I find to to the UN—how very independent of you!) and our although nobody in Bruxelles has demanded we cions about international development initiatives be quite callous and infuriating. remaining natural resources are being sold off in hand it over to the other kids. in the so-called developing world, but the tone of The idea that all citizens of a democracy bear a a post-Kreppa fire sale (the Chinese visited us last As it stands we are living in a fake democ- his argument recalls the eye-rolling line from the collective responsibility for the acts of the state, or week just to say "hi," right?). How much worse can racy, with a fake economy and a fake currency. Simpsons: ‘Oh, won't somebody please think of select elements within the governmental-financial it get? Furthermore, Independence Party chair Something needs to change and, recession or no the children!!!’ complex, is faulty for a number of reasons that I Bjarni Ben and his special friends are not OLD recession, Iceland continues to prove in spectacu- I apologise if I appear insincere about a serious will let more astute political thinkers than I dis- powers, they are the hip-young new powers, and lar fashion, time and again, that—in spite of an issue, but my reading of this is that of someone cuss. But the bottom line is that voting in parlia- they seem to be keeping the fires of corrupt, dis- overwhelming preference for transparent democ- who is angry because he was cheated—robbed es- mentary elections has often struck me as some- honest, fear-mongering politics smouldering away racy and self-governance—it is not capable of that sentially—and rightly so. But I am not going to what farcical. Western democratic governments without much help from anyone. Bjarni, by the change alone. be swayed that some people deserve their money are more often than not professional cliques and way just, announced his party's brilliant, forward back more than others just because it was to go personal networks of career politicians, senior bu- thinking plan for the future of Iceland: To pull out I, for one, want to know exactly where we stand. towards noble purposes. It sounded to me like a reaucrats, and the representatives of financial-in- of any negotiation with Bruxelles. Period (remem- worthwhile cause, but I am sure there are many dustrial-military interests, the sum total of which ber I said I would get to the far darker places? Read I want to know what our options are. others who deserve their savings back as well. displays the invariable track record of doing what- on). Quote: “I put my money [in Icesave] on the 27th ever the hell they want once in office. This does Anyone who believes this stance has anything I want to hear a different point of view. of August 2008.” Mr. van Vliet claims by all ap- not apply to Iceland alone. to do with independence—aside from protecting pearances that the Icelandic banking sector was Is the government of Iceland responsible for the insidious circle of corruption that bankrolls We have nothing to lose. fine at this time and the knowledge of problems the Icesave debacle? Yes. Is ‘the government of that party—is living in a fantasy. Staying away was confined to insider specialists. I don’t buy Iceland’ the people writ large? No—unless you from the EU has nothing to do with forging a new this. All summer long of 2008 it was obvious— subscribe to a rather naive view of the world and path for Iceland. Rather, it has everything to do even earlier for those paying attention—that there politics. ‘That,’ Mr. van Vliet, ‘is democracy.’ with continuing business as usual, without any ac- was trouble afoot in the Icelandic banking sector. countability—running the fishing industry like a In late August of 2008, I would rather have giv- mafia racket, selling off natural resources to write en my money to that Zambian fellow who keeps off debt, fast tracking us back to 2006—as long as emailing me. But seriously—putting money into we are all driving fancy cars and living in designer an offshore internet account seems risky to me in apartments with harbour views again nobody will general, whether said bank is in Iceland or else- ask the hard questions about what it cost to get where. I am sure there were safer alternatives, there. but perhaps Mr. van Vliet was directly misled and Jmicei r "Independence" in Icelandic society today benrost f ulia j staples I apologise if this was the case. 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This tour is perfect for all Saga enthusiasts. Get a detailed and comprehensive Iceland´s South coast is ideal for nature On this tour we take you around the area introduction to Reykjavík´s past and lovers of all kinds. Spectacular scenery, where one of the Icelandic Sagas took present. Reykjavík´s unique proximity to striking waterfalls, stunning views of place - along with enjoying spectacular nature, with salmon river Elliðaá running glaciers, black lava sand coastline, landscape. Come and follow in the through it, green valleys and outdoor charming villages and impressive rock footsteps of the Vikings with us. swimming pools, makes this city second formations all day long. to none in the world. Book now on www.re.is Book now on www.re.is Book now on www.re.is
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Iceland | Statistics Opinion | Íris Erlingsdóttir Sheep Ahoy! Loans And Moral Hazard Will the banks always win? So it turns out the old adage is true: there are more 900.000 The practice of lending money to sheep than people in Iceland. Just check out the Sheep vs. human 1755 - 2009 members of one’s own group for graph to the right. profit is generally condemned by the There are some interesting anomalies to note in Bible (see, e.g., Deut. 23:20), and this the graph however. Most prominently, the sudden 750.000 has proven to be exceedingly annoying to those plummet of the number of sheep in 1784, the only trying to construct a modern financial system. year where there were more human beings than Although church authorities eventually relented sheep in the country (although only by a margin of on their strict interpretation of the Scriptures— 0.1%). This is mainly attributed to the eruption of perhaps because they noted that the Jewish lenders 1784 were getting all the goodies—they did retain the idea Lakagígar from 1783 to 1785 which had disastrous 600.000 Sheep 49.615 that exploiting poor people is not such a good thing effects on agriculture and wiped out most of the Population 49.753 for a peaceful society. Accordingly, lending was sheep population. Since Iceland at the time relied permitted, but only at reasonable rates, and many on the sheep so much for sustenance, it in turn took of the more imaginative collection practices were a toll on the human population as well. Maybe that forbidden. 450.000 eruption of Katla we‘re all waiting for will have the In many places, such as the Western world same effect! outside of Iceland, the spirit of fair competition and Two other notable drops can be spotted on the concerns of consumer protection have resulted in chart, one between 1944-1951 and another since the practice of setting fixed interest rates for large loans, such as mortgages and automobile loans. If 1984, however the cause of these drops are still yet 300.000 inflation happens to exceed the interest rate, it is a to be determined. boon to the borrower; if the interest rate ultimately Sheep proves to be greatly above the rate of inflation, the 49.9 % Humans borrower may refinance at a lower rate. Since the 17.4 % bank is holding most of the cards—security interests
1784 150.000 in the loan collateral, expertise in predicting default 2009 rates, valuation experts, legions of lawyers and debt Sheep 469.429 collection agencies—it only seems fair. 1783 Sheep Humans 1784 Population 319.368 In Iceland, however, it has been the practice of 1783 82.6 % 50.1 % Source: Statistics Iceland and DataMarket indexing residential mortgage and automobile loans 0 to inflation. This places all risk on the borrowers, and R L eBECCA ouder 1755 1775 1795 1815 1835 1855 1875 1895 1915 1935 1955 1975 20091995 ensures that the banks will always win.
A brilliant way of sticking it to the banks? Surprisingly, poor consumers don’t particularly like Special | Best Of Reykjavík this system, and are willing to go to great lengths to avoid guaranteeing the banks’ profits. One such device marketed in the past decade was the foreign currency loan. A foreign currency loan, as devised by Y ou Have To Try It our banks, indexes the interest rate, not on inflation, but on a basket of foreign currencies. While the Ísbúð Vesturbæjar’s legacy of tasty, old-fashioned ice cream króna and the inflation rate were both flying high, this seemed like a brilliant way of sticking it to the banks. Ísbúð Vesturbæjar Unfortunately, of course, the banks didn’t get Hagamelur 67, 107 where they were by committing random acts of kindness. Although it should have been obvious to their legions of lawyers, these loans were in blatant For the last 40 years, Ísbúð Vesturbæjar has violation of a law passed in 2001. served some most delicious ice cream in Reykja- Now that Iceland’s Supreme Court has pointed out this inconvenient truth, no one knows quite what vík. A well-known favourite amongst locals, this to do. Were the loans void ad initio? Should they be neat shop that looks like the inside of a spaceship reformed retroactively? Should the collateral seized is tucked away in the lovely west end of Reykjavík. when consumers defaulted be returned? Should the It has consistently offered some staple varieties of ill-gotten origination fees and excess payments be soft serve along with some fabulous toppings to disgorged? crazy up your cone. The concept of moral hazard cuts both ways We asked owner Baldur Bjarnason how he got in this situation. On the one hand, the consumers started in the ice cream business. “I worked as had at least some idea of risk they were taking, and a pilot for Icelandair... I have no idea what I am should have to pay the price when they lost their bet. On the other hand, the banks were in a vastly doing in this ice cream business,” he admits. “It’s superior position to determine the legality of these fun, though.” He says Ísbúð Vesturbæjar has a lot loans. If the banks are not forced to accept some of young customers and very old customers that of the risk in the financial system, they will have have been loyal to the store for many years. “It’s no incentive to develop good intelligence or sound a nice business. It’s always busy, and it’s a lot of lending practices, or to follow the law. work.” These loans have caused much pain. Relieving Baldur says that one of the most popular ice consumers of the excess risk to which they exposed cream choices is vanilla ice cream dipped in other places’,” he tells us, refusing to divulge any will hopefully keep on service up delicious cold themselves is the lesser of the two evils in this chocolate sprinkled with snickers. There are no secrets on the recipe. “We are an independent treats for years and years to come. situation. The banks’ purported expertise could have, and should have, saved them. They are, after all, in a plans to change anything, because Baldur thinks store. We make our own ice cream which you can- position to recoup their losses from the lawyers who the customers wouldn’t like change. “We serve not buy anywhere else. It’s a special place.” Ísbúð emil urtony b JULIA STAPLES signed off on these loans, but the consumers have old-fashioned ice cream which is different from Vesturbæjar’s ice cream is one for the ages that no other recourse.
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Special | Best Of Reykjavík Local Favourites And Secrets
While compiling our BEST OF Drekinn and go to Kaffismiðjan and lie Markús Bjarnasson, sorbets. Lots of nice options, like the Best kept secret? The Sweat. It’s a REYKJAVÍK list, we consulted with on the bench, hobo-style. AKA Markús & the coconut frozen yoghurt. Native North American style sweat- a large group of people from all Best kept secret: The picnic table Diversion Sessions Best Kept Secret? Coffee at Café lodge in Elliðaárdalur run by a gay around town. Some of them were hidden in the woods by Tjörnin is fun. Muian s ci Haiti and good healthy food at Maður couple. It’s a five hour affair with sing- very detailed in their preferences, It’s a good place to take a girl. Lífandi. It’s great. They have all kinds of ing and dancing and you sit in a super and some of what they like about Secret sauna wonderful juices and organic foods. hot tent with a fire. It’s really great. our fair city is very likely some of birtau g ðjónsdóttir what you’ll like about it, once you Dire ctOR of Nýlistasafnið Best Bar? It’s nice when you go out dóri dNA MganH e erber to start up Laugavegur, maybe around rapper d eSIGNER try it out for yourself. Boston. It’s a sure bet if you go down- In that spirit, here are some My favourite things about hill. It’s all downhill from there! If you Drunk actors, poets and Hot yoga excellent folks and their excellent Reykjavík are not very original, but they get bored you head down to Karamba journalists thoughts on Reykjavík. are good and classic. For instance: or then Bakkus. It’s a combination of Favourite Bakery Treat? The tower- Kjarvalsstaðir: It’s always nice to those three places. Favourite Bar?: I think I’m a bit of a shaped chocolate soufflés with the attend exhibits there, the café is an Favourite Pool? Vesturbæjarlaug. I cliché! I like Prikið because I’ve been to gooey fudge centre from Sandholt. D aGNý Ósk excellent place to read up on some was raised there. People like to talk in clubs all over the world and I’ve never Favourite Place For An Aimless Aradóttir Pind art magazines and the building itself the hotpots because they are round. experienced anything like the madness Rummage? Friða Frænka Sdnttu e is especially beautiful, human-friendly You meet the same people over and that happens there. It’s really small Best Hot-Dog Experience Down- and open to Reykjavík’s Central Park over. I recommend going and paying and it has fireworks when the mood is town? That little hole in the wall milk- Hidden streets and late (Klambratún). extra for the dry sauna. They have one right. Afterwards, I like going down to bar on Laugavegur just down the hill nights Norðurmýrin: Where the streets are but they don’t want you to know about Næsti Bar to visit some drunk actors from Kaffibarinn. Always fresh, always all named after Njála, Landnáma and it! Supposedly it’s a gay hot spot for and poets and journalists as they hang good. Especially in the wee hours. Favourite Bar? Laxdæla characters. The neighbour- one day a week. out. Favourite Thai Place? Ban Thai. Par- Kaffibarinn. Excellent music and hood is like a little village on the out- Best Place To See A Show? Hemmi Favourite Restaurant? The new pizza ticularly their giant, come-one-come- everyone I like to hang out with. No skirts of downtown, a quiet neighbour- & Valdi. It’s the old wooden house on place, Gamla Smiðjan. It reminds me all tom-yum soups. other bar is a candidate, even though ly paradise. The architecture is basic Laugavegur that used to be the Hljó- of something from back in 1997 when Best Sushi? The new sushi bar in the this might mean I need to expand my “concrete functional” from the forties malind record shop. A rock show there Iceland thought it had developed into Kringlan food court. I'm pretty sure it's horizons a little. and the hood itself is full of cats, large is the best. something culturally diverse. Back then called Zusushi. The chef’s special is Favourite Restaurant? Á Næstu Grö- trees and moss. Best Kept Secret? A walk out to we cherished pizza places. sensational. sum. A fair price, you get some great Elliðaárdalurinn: Where the salmon Grandi or Grótta. Best Kept Secret? There are a lot Best Yoga Class? Lana Vogelstad’s bread and hummus with your meal and play within city limits. Where the of good theatre productions in town. Hot Yoga. the food is always spot on. So are the distant traffic roar blends with the hum H anNAH jördís Some have a real international feel cakes. of the river and song of the birds, and Herrera about them. The new theatre in Seltjar- ÁV rni iLHJÁLMSSON Favourite Street? Haðarstígur, 101 you bid all passers-by a good day. It is stdntu e narnes, The North Pole, is really great. mian us ci , fm belfast Reykjavík. It’s a totally hidden street most certainly a place to ponder ones It’s a hidden gem for now. within Þingholt, which is uniquely quiet existence, to enjoy being a city kid in Rolling down Arnarhóll and beautiful. I definitely intend to live nature, not too far from ones next latté. mundi Best Pool? Sundhöll there in the future. Múlakaffi: Where you can get Þorri- Best Restaurant? Ban Thai, espe- c dlOTHING esigner Reykjavíkur. Because of their hot pot. Favourite Store? Brynja. They have food well beyond the season, Icelandic cially no. 19, if you want to burn your It’s great. everything, and fools such as myself home cooking in an institutional diner mouth with spice! Sweating it Best Burger? Hamborgarabúlla that don’t know anything about equip- environment. It’s the kind of place I Best kept secret? Rolling down Tómasar. The hamburgers are ALWAYS ment and hardware supplies receive would love to visit as a tourist else- Árnahóll at ungodly hours in good Favourite Bar? Kaffibarinn, Bakkus good, and the staff is great. some great service, whether we’re pur- where, basic mom-food and no fancy company, and dancing to live African and Boston. Those are the only bars I Best Ice Cream? A chocolate shake chasing a light bulb or a jackhammer. stuff. It isn’t very healthy either... drums at Baðhúsið. go to, because of the crowd and the at Ísbúð Vesturbæjar. Made with the Favourite Favourite? Walking home Favourite art-space: Aside from atmosphere. I wish we still had Sirkus “old” ice cream, of course. from town after a good night, with the Nýlistasafnið, where I am director, I lana vOGESTAD but we don’t. I also like Prikið, but only Best Restaurant? Saffran. Ridicu- sun rising. It’s hard to explain. It’s just would like to mention the art-book yga o iNSTRuctor during the day. lously good and healthy food at a fair such a great feeling. store Útúrdúr, which shares a space Favourite New Clothing? Kron Kron price. with the music shop Havarí, right in the definitely has the best clothes and Best Sauna? The sauna at Vesturbæ- F rÍMANN middle of downtown in Austurstræti. Favourite Restaurant? Nauthóll brands in Reykjavík. I also like GK, jarlaug. Excellent location and environ- Frímannsson Útúrdúr was founded around 2007 by in the summer, because you can sit where I sell my brand. ment. Peace and quiet and some great pro feSSIONAL hipster a group of artists, and they use the outside, it’s near airport and there’s a Favourite Ice Cream? Ísbúð Vestur- conversation. space to honour artists’ work by dis- great view of the ocean. bæjar, maybe just because I lived there Best Coffee? Kaffismiðjan. The Picnics with girls playing their art books (“paper art”). Favourite Pool? The Seltjarnarnes for a long time. They really stick to an best coffee, excellent location and a Útúrdúr also publishes books and has pool. It’s a little secluded and by the old fashion way of making ice cream fabulous environment. They also serve Best restaurant? Hornið, because linked in to a large network of similar sea. I love being by the sea! It’s new and there’s an old charm to it that you great cheese and jam scones. it is straight up delicious and fun to entities in Europe and the US that are and clean and it has minerals in the can’t really fake. watch the emo kids leaving Café Rót. all oases’ in the cultural deserts of water, which is really nice. Favourite Gallery? Kling & Bang, be- Best bar: Bakkus has reasonably their towns. Favourite Walk? Around Hljómskál- cause they are all good friends. I know priced beer and a lot of shit you can agarðurinn, the park by the Tjörnin they aren’t doing it for the money, climb. pond downtown. because they’re all fucking poor. They Best coffee: Kaffismiðjan, it’s close Favourite Ice Cream? Ísbúðin Ísland. have had some of the greatest artists to my house so I go pick up smokes at They have a local ice cream maker and I’ve been able to see.
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Glacier Hike Ice Climbing Climbing Cycling Sightseeing Boat Trip www.glacierguides.is | [email protected] | + 354-571-2100 | Visit us at the Cintamani Center, Laugavegur 11 The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 09 — 2010 Magnús Sveinn Helgason is a historian. He most recently authored addendum five to the SIC report, and is currently working on a book on financial bubbles. 12
Article | Reykjavík Nine Attacks On Alþingi Are Of No Concern To Alþingi U p is down, obedience is freedom, fiction is fact, ignorance is enlightenment
“Ásta Ragnheiður admitted she had not heard what Jón said, and could therefore not evaluate his arguments, but nevertheless believed she needed to make sure that he was on the same page as The State, sending him governmental talking points on the case. Just to make sure.“
scribed and cautious in his analysis. He sided nothing wrong with calling up respected neither with the protesters nor the state, but members of Iceland’s academia to complain pointed out that it was strange that out of all that they are not being supportive enough those who ‘attacked’ Alþingi during the win- when the state decides to engage in political ter of 2008-9, only the nine had been singled persecution against protesters, going so far out and charged with violating the 100th as to send out government talking points just paragraph. to make sure that everybody is on the same Shortly after the programmeme, Jón re- page. ceived a phone call from Ásta Ragnheiður, To top this off, Ásta Ragnheiður sees who informed him that while she hadn’t ac- nothing wrong with making these kinds of tually heard him on the radio, she had been phone calls without actually knowing what contacted by “numerous people,” who had she’s talking about. Jón Ólafsson confirms been very unhappy about how he had talked that she did in fact say that she had not heard about the case – and that these people had the programme herself, but was relying on told her that Jón had gotten critical aspects of what others had told her. She would not iden- the case wrong. She could not identify what tify who these people were. All of this raises exactly he had gotten wrong, but offered to doubts about her judgement, as well as seri- e-mail him a document just to make sure ous questions about professional conduct. that he wouldn’t get anything wrong in the Last week the Speaker of Alþingi, Social thing about them. Nor did she respond in any in a “violent” and “threatening” manner. Ac- future. He later received an e-mail from her Everyone should be equal Democrat Ásta Ragnheiður Jóhannes- official capacity. Having made this dismis- cording to her, it was “obvious” that the group official Alþingi account. Those who have taken the hard-line approach dóttir, was presented with the signa- sive statement, she hurried away. had “no compunction about using force to get The Grapevine has acquired a copy of her in this matter, supporting Ásta Ragnheiður’s tures of 705 people who demand that ei- into contact with members of parliament.” letter, which reads like simple talking points. view that the Reykjavík Nine be prosecuted ther the trumped up charges against the The judicial system and its in- She also stressed that the protesters had en- These talking points summarize the state- to the full extent of the law – and convicted ‘Reykjavík Nine’ be dropped, or they too dependence tered Alþingi through “the back door.” All of ments Ásta Ragnheiður had previously made of a crime that carries a maximum sentence this was supposedly caught by surveillance be charged with the same crimes. Since then Ásta Ragnheiður has said that she in parliament, complete with the reference of life in prison – have evoked enlightenment cameras. has shelved the petition, and that she would to the protesters having entered through the ideals to support their view: the rule of law, Since then, the video from said surveil- The organisers of the petition (or mass con- in fact not take any action in the matter. Ap- “back door” (again, where every non-official the ideal of the Rechtsstaat, the tripartite sep- lance camera has been released to the media, fession, if you will) argue that it’s outrageous parently, the speaker of Alþingi believes pub- visitor to Alþingi enters the building). The aration of powers, as well as the importance and it shows no angry mob overpowering to indict the Reykjavík Nine for having vio- lic confessions to serious crimes against the talking points contained nothing new, and of respecting the independence and integrity guards and policemen, no one forcing their lated the first clause of the 100th article of the institution she represents are something that corrected nothing Jón had said. of institutions like Alþingi. Ásta Ragnheiður way into Alþingi. Furthermore, the entrance penal code (which deals with ‘attacks against don’t need to be taken seriously. This correspondence should give us has even gone so far as to cite the SIC report. the group used is the public one – only MPs, the independence and integrity of Alþingi’), a This was in keeping with her previ- pause. Ásta Ragnheiður admitted she had Although they appear more as disciples Ministers and others on official state busi- crime that carries a minimum penalty of one ous public statements on the issue. Ásta not heard what Jón said, and could therefore of Rousseau than Montesquieu, the Reykja- ness use the front entrance to the house. year in prison, and a maximum one of life Ragnheiður has argued that the affair doesn’t not evaluate his arguments, but nevertheless vík Nine and their supporters – including the Nothing in the case files supports the claim behind bars. They argue that if the Reykjavík really concern her at all. The courts should be believed she needed to make sure that he was 705 who signed the petition/mass confession that the protesters used violence or threats Nine were truly guilty of such a heinous at- trusted to handle the case, and that moreover on the same page as The State, sending him – have also cited enlightenment ideals. Their of violence – and it is quite simply absurd to tack on Alþingi, everyone who participated in she was never in any real capacity involved governmental talking points on the case. Just main argument is that in the fall of 2008 the claim that the protesters attempted to get into the ‘pots and pans revolution’ of 2009 should with it. to make sure. social contract between the government and “contact” with MPs. The protesters hoped be charged with the same crime. The mass But let’s pause for a minute. the governed had been broken. The govern- to get onto the public benches, which are protests in January 2009, when the protesters Sure: The charges are brought by the Stifling critical discourse ment and Alþingi, through their utter incom- located high above the chamber. There was laid siege to the house of Parliament for sev- State Prosecutor, not Alþingi. But it was in- In her e-mail Ásta Ragnheiður evokes the petence had forfeited the trust of the people absolutely no indication at any point that eral days, was far more disruptive and threat- deed taken up only after the Secretary Gen- conclusions of the SIC report – pointing out – abrogated their end of the social contract. the group intended to harm anyone: nobody ening to “the integrity of Alþingi” than the eral of Alþingi requested that the State Pros- that the report had criticised politicians for Hence the chant of the pots and pans upris- was armed, and nobody in the group made Reykjavík Nine’s attempted visit to the public ecutor do so. In his request, the Secretary their attempts to influence the courts: “The ing: “Incompetent government!” and the threats of physical violence. No evidence has benches of parliament on December 8, 2008. General even identifies the different laws tripartite separation of powers is clear. More- “declaration” one of the Reykjavík Nine man- surfaced to suggest otherwise. The 705 signatories to the mass confes- he believed had been broken – including the over, the State Prosecutor is independent in aged to read to Alþingi on December 8: “This But wait, there’s more. So invested is Ásta sion Ásta Ragnheiður received demanded first paragraph of the 100th article of the pe- his duties and is not supposed to receive or- house no longer serves its purpose!” followed Ragnheiður in this narrative of the Reykjavík that they be charged for their participation in nal code. The Secretary General serves under ders from MPs. The conclusions of the SIC by the poetic exhortation: “Get the fuck out!” Nine as ‘dangerous terrorists’ that she has the pots and pans revolution, that they, too, the Speaker of Alþingi. report single out for harsh criticism how Through their demands that they, too, be made disturbing attempts to influence how be charged for having “attacked parliament.” Not only did the entire case originate in politicians have in the past attempted to in- charged with the crimes the Reykjavík Nine they are portrayed in the media, going so far If the Reykjavík Nine should stand trial, they her office, Ásta Ragnheiður has on several fluence the judiciary system.” are being accused of, the 705 signatories to as to hand talking points to members of aca- should, too. And anyone who not only con- occasions made it clear that she feels very True. But the SIC report also criticises the petition are also demanding that Ásta demia who have dared comment on the sub- fesses to a crime that carries a maximum strongly about the case. politicians for their repeated attempts to Ragnheiður see to it that one of the key ide- sentence of life in prison, but practically de- ject. stifle critical discourse, and members of the als of the enlightenment be honoured, that mands that he stand trial for it, should be academia for having been too subservient Iceland be a Rechtsstaat – that the rule of law taken seriously. Academic freedom In response to a parliamentary inquiry, she Heed the talking points! to members of the political elite, for having be applied in a fair and even manner: every- As the crime in question was one against On May 17, Jón Ólafsson, philosopher and stated that the Reykjavík Nine, and the other been too willing to recite government talking one guilty of the same crime should face the Alþingi, one would have thought that its Dean of the Faculty of Social Sciences at protesters who entered the house of parlia- points. same charges. speaker would take the matter seriously. But Bifröst University, was on the morning pro- ment that day had “forced their way into the Maybe Ásta Ragnheiður missed that part no. Sure, Ásta Ragnheiður accepted the sig- gramme of the state owned Radio One to dis- of the report. house of parliament,” that they “overpow- magnús sveinn helgason natures, but at the same time she stressed cuss the various ethical angles of the court Because Ásta Ragnheiður appears to see ered” staff and guards and generally behaved áll p hilmarsson that she did not have any authority to do any- case. As he is wont to, Jón was very circum-
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THE BIGGEST CLUB IN DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK. LIVE MUSIC EVERY WEEKEND. WWW.NASA.IS OOD NEWS www.inspiredbyiceland.is We are generally inspired by Iceland and the stuff going on here. We wanted to bring y'all the good news happening in our fair country and why we love living here. Eat, Breathe, Civilisation? Give Me This Tourists Apocalyptic Backwater On The Street Live Your Art We stopped to interview some lucky tourists on the street to see It doesn't take a scholar to recognise Any Day why they chose to visit Iceland. Reykjavík's devotion to the arts. Even The following people graciously the briefest wander through the city’s complied to dish out the details of streets and back allies will prove its ap- their trip. preciation of aesthetics—be it fashion, art or performance. This month, the art-lovin’ city will welcome the latest addition to our colourful spectrum of gallery-ish places: SPARK. Reykjavík is indeed a community dedicated to artistic opportunity and prolific endeavours. Sigríður Sigurjóns- dóttir, professor of product design at the Icelandic Art Academy, is a mem- is why I wanted to set up a gallery that ber of this community, and on July 8th worked as a platform for interesting she will be inaugurating this brand new design projects, that places the main design space. focus on designers collaborating with But these days one can hardly bat other professions.” an eye without it being violated by The first designer take to the show Names: Bruce, Tammy, & Kyra some form of artistic expression. So room is artist Andrea Maack with her Where are you from? United States why should we brace ourselves for this exhibition EAU DE PARFUM. Andrea Why did you choose to come to one? spent two years working extensively Iceland? Well, just imagine wearable blan- alongside a French perfumery. During B: My great-grandmother is Icelandic kets, art-inspired scents and paper this time, her abstract pencil draw- so we came to visit family. Tammy and food. Cool, huh? The idea is to pair up ings were translated into fragrances I just returned from a little eyes while you ears are assaulted by I have come before and had a really designers with people of completely SMART, CRAFT and SHARP. Not only jaunt to London. It was my classic Icelandic pop tunes. Also a great good time. We decided to come back unrelated professions and see what will these be exhibited at SPARK but birthday and my brother, place to watch a decent protest as well. so that our daughter Kyra could meet crazy outcomes they get. Through they’ll also be introduced as products in his infinite generosity, her Icelandic family and see where these collusions, designers are offered for sale. bought me a return ticket to spend time The comic book corner of Reykjavík her ancestors our from. a chance to prove their part in everyday Vík Prjónsdóttir, a project set up by with him and friends. I admit that as city library Are you enjoying it so far? society. five designers and the knitting factory the plane left Keflavík I was flush with I have a friend who has recently dis- K: Yeah, it's really good. “Designers are often about aesthet- Víkurprjón, will also be exhibiting their smugness at the idea of leaving this covered the wonderful hyper-real world What have you done so far? ics,” Sigríður tells us. “At SPARK we vibrant range of wearable blankets. medieval backwater and getting back of comics. To help her in her quest to T: We went on the puffin island tour wanted to focus on sensual design.” Sigríður clearly emphasises that to some real civilisation and the things discover more, I pointed her to a little yesterday. It was a lot of fun and we Thus, many of the results are a lot more SPARK steers away from famous de- I’d been missing in Iceland. Cheap beer! jewel on the 2nd floor in the City library, got to see a lot of puffins. No whales interactive than regular design and in- signers and their one million ISK prod- Sausages! Decent drugs! Street crime! a place where you could easily spend though. Our family is taking us to volve the infusion of our senses into the ucts, and instead wants to “show how Oh, it was truly going to be heaven. all day perusing classic comics of all Þórsmörk tomorrow and we're really artistic world. working with designers can change But as my holiday was ending, I be- shapes and sizes. Garth Ennis’ run on excited. We love to see more of the “It’s difficult for our students, who’ve and improve things.” came increasingly pissed off with the The Punisher? Check. Early Ed Bru- country, it's breathtaking. been doing a lot of experimental proj- city. God, the people and the air smelled baker? Check. Alejandro Jodorowsky´s B: Overall, we're really enjoying our ects as well as food design. There's no By Alexandra Young like decaying cabbage. It was too hot The White Lama? Big check! The place stay and are already planning to path for their work,” says Sigríður. “This and humid, riding the tube was like be- to totally geek out. come back. ing a tapeworm in Satan’s colon, and the beer in pubs was just as expensive The Kebabs at Habibi as Iceland! In the end my stress levels When I eventually get chucked out of were so high I almost punched a granny Dillon’s for violating inanimate objects, in the face because her dog looked at then the only place to go is to the little me funny. kebab place on Hafnarstræti for their And then it hit me. Despite my al- Syrian kebab wraps. It’s not too spicy Savoury Saffran most daily bitching about real and and the tangy yoghurt sauce will give imagined issues with the place, I was CPR to your taste buds. Saffran missing Reykjavík and my way of life Glæsibær, 104 here. My mate Unnar Holy shit, Reykjavík is now my The national stereotype of the hard hometown! working Icelander has come in for a Healthy, tasty, exotic, and very reason- But what is it that I love about Reyk- beating recently. For “taking risks,” Names: Jacob & Eric ably priced, Saffran is totally one of our javík that I just can’t get anywhere else? read “Have no idea what you’re doing, Where are you from? favourite places to eat in Reykjavík. In Sitting down with a bottle of vodka and do it with someone else’s money, and some cheese, I came up the following then run away when it all goes tits up.” J: Florida, USA fact, it just won our ‘best goddamn res- delights ... But there is one Reykjavík resident who E: Minnesota, USA taurant’ of 2010 award! keeps the tradition alive. My mate Un- Why did you want to come to We called up one of the owners, Jay Breiðholtslaug nar is the living embodiment of an Ice- Iceland? Jamchi, to try and find out how they OK, Reykjavík’s pools are excellent, but lander who “gets things done.” E: We are studying Icelandic managed to get so awesome. He told us have you ever tried to have a proper This is a man who helped to furnish Is this your first time in Iceland? he started off cooking as a hobby, and swim in Vesturbæjarlaug during the my flat when I first arrived here, helped J: I’ve been to the airport before. simply wanted to start a restaurant for friends and family always loved.” weekend? Forget it. It’s just way too organise my wedding, got a good deal E: Yes. fun. Now, his hobbyhorse is expanding The restaurant just started offer- crowded. My local pool on the other on a new car for my wife Sigga (no for- What is the most exciting thing to the US and Western Europe. Wow, ing catering services, and Jay tells us hand is only five minutes’ walk from eign loans here!) and more importantly you have done/seen in Iceland huh? they've been doing very well on that my house, has great hot pots and more helped arrange for me to arm wrestle so far? Jay tells us they are “constantly front too. Jay believes he already ac- importantly, is not heaving with tourist former world’s strongest man Magnús J: We saw the main guy from Jar City at Vesturbæjarlaug. changing the menu to make sure cus- complished his goal of “running a res- hipsters and annoying bloody kids try- Ver Magnússon in my underpants for a What is your least favorite thing tomers are satisfied.” Saffran never taurant that makes excellent food and ing to dive-bomb you as you swim past. bet. There is nothing that this man can- not do (except like any good Icelandic about Iceland? uses white flower or sugar, and all their offers great service and prices.” We Íslenski Barinn male, express his emotions). E: That everyone wants to speak ingredients are local, except the saf- have to agree. The Austurvöllur establishment doesn’t English to us. fron, which they import from Spain. have the cheapest beer (Kaffi Grand) or If you can find anything as good as They mix all their own spices too. Jay the best value for money food (Noodle these things anywhere else, then sir I says the idea for Saffron came from the Eil urtonm y b Station), but when it’s a sunny Saturday shall call you a bloody liar! JULIA STAPLES “saffron chicken I cooked at home, that lunchtime, you can sit with a bottle of Móri beer, a toasted lamb sandwich and By Bob Cluness fries and you can just gaze out on the square and watch life pass before your Unique Icelandic craft & design Laugavegur 69 Tel: 587 0200
Fire is needed by the newcomer Whose knees are frozen numb; Meat and clean linen a man needs Who has fared across the fells.*
The Icelandic Sheep, Keeping the people alive since 874 AD.
*From the Hávamál, 1300 AD
I c e l a n d i c Sheep Farmers [email protected] / photo: ÁJS The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 09 — 2010 16
Special | Best Of Reykjavík Bæjarins Beztu, Seriously The Best Goddamn Dog In Town!
Bæjarins Beztu Hafnarstræti 17, 101
The Icelandic pylsa: possibly the only hot dog with the ability to unite an en- tire nation, for better or for worse. And Bæjarins beztu pylsur certainly doesn't have any shortcomings when it comes to providing the populous with deli- cious, mouth-watering pylsur. The stand was first set up in 1937 on Austurstræti. Yet it wasn't until the 60s that it moved to Tryggvagata where it stands strong today, catching all the hungry eyes of the wandering tour- ists during the day and the ravenous mouths of the stumbling slurring folk throughout the night.
The town’s best hot dog? The hot dog stand, appropriately named (“The Town's Best Hot Dog”), has been doing what it does best for over 70 years. It's even gained interna- tional attention. In 2006, the Guardian confirmed that it's not just the best in Reykjavík, but the best in Europe! Yet despite all this fame and fortune it still manages to retain its humble, family routes. Guðrún Kristmundsdóttir, the current owner of the stand, tells us that it was her grandfather who first ran the joint, which was then handed down to her father, and finally to Guðrún, who has now been running it for 20 years. A typical hot dog, or 'ein með öllu' (“one with everything,” as it is affec- tionately known by the locals), will usually be covered in an assortment of condiments, namely ketchup, mustard, beztu also boasts a culture of celebrity bottom, a mistake that’s often made fried onion, raw onion and remoulade. customers visiting the island. The most by pylsa-amateurs. But whatever it is, The contrast between the ambrosially notable appearance being Bill Clinton each visit is guaranteed to leave you sweet remoulade and the slightly bit- foolishly going for the simple hot dog walking away nodding your head and ter mustard, finalised by the crunch and mustard. “All the visiting bands live rubbing your belly in satisfaction. of the cronions, may just be what gets on my hot dogs”, Guðrún tells us, “from Another good, stable sign for it be- the joint through its thousands a day. Ella Fitzgerald to Metallica frontman ing the best is that so far there have However, unfortunately there is no veg- James Hetfield, to name but a few.” been no incidents of people spitting etarian option, but most people should But what draws these A-listers to a food out in disgust. “No, the only com- probably know what they're getting meagre hot dog stand? “One thing that plaints I get are from Danish people. themselves into when joining a queue is crucial for my business is that every- They can always taste the lamb, which for a hot dog stand. one gets their privacy in the queue,” ex- they aren't used to,” says Guðrún “But plains Guðrún. “But they have to queue once they get over it they seem to enjoy just like every other person. I often re- it!” One of Bill Clinton’s mistakes ceive questions about celebrities want- A hot dog may not sound like tra- Indeed, rain, snow or shine, there is ing special treatment and I always say ditional Icelandic cuisine, but if you always a queue. Even if you're freez- no.” haven't tried one of Bæjarins Bestu ing your ass off in sub-zero tempera- then you should flee the country in tures, it's most definitely worth the Danes will want their pigdog shame. Unless you're vegetarian of wait. But don't be fooled by the length Apart from the speedy service, cheap course, then I recommend just the as the queues move swiftly and one is prices, and consistently good hot dogs, bread with the sauces. On top of all often left feeling surprised that put- it can be hard to place a finger on what that, a hot dog costs a mere 280 ISK, so ting five different condiments on a hot separates this stand from the rest. The it’s one of the few places which won't dog could take just under a second. A ingredients used are the same as any leave you broke, that is, if you're not al- fact many people may have previously other vendor, but some say it's the ready. A source of health found inhumanly possible. layering of the sauce that conquers alendraxa young Thermal pools and baths in Reykjavik are a source of Not only has it beckoned almost all others. The trick is putting the re- every Icelander to its feet, Bæjarins moulade on top as opposed to on the JULIA STAPLES health, relaxation and pureness. 94% of foreign guests that visited thermal pools and baths in Reykjavik said it had a positive effect on their Special | Best Of Reykjavík health and well-being. Italy On Ice Hornið, Reykjavík‘s oldest Italian restaurant, is a 101 institution
Welcome to Reykjavik´s Thermal Pools Hornið “If you are going to open a steakhouse Hafnarstræti 15, 101 or a pizza place in Iceland, you have to and pizzas. They instantly became a hit stay true to your original idea,” he tells amongst the locals and have remained us. “Now it’s a mix of Italian and Nordic an institution of fine dining in the city dishes.” Adding to their wide array of throughout the years. Still serving up delicious pizzas and pastas they have classic Italian dishes, their patrons are mixed in traditional fish and lamb dish- now equal parts local and foreign, and es as new specialties. Jakob says his rarely have a quiet night all year. personal favourite is the fish soup. Thirty years ago in Reykjavík there were Asking how they have managed to very few restaurants, much less ones be so consistently great, their owner serving up authentic fare from for- Jakob told us that they haven’t changed eign lands. In 1979, Hornið opened its their menu much over the course of the Tel: +354 411 5000 www.itr.is www.spacity.is doors on Hafnarstræti as the first res- years, except adding a few new items rebecca louder taurant to serve up real Italian cuisine and adding new twists to their style. AS G ICELAND :: FILM – Berlin – Copenhagen – Reykjavík MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS – EDDAS AND SAGAS ICELANDERS – AN EXHIBITION OF PHOTOGRAPHS Icelandic Filmmaking 1904-2008 The Ancient Vellums on Display The spirit of the Icelandic nation in words and images.
EXHIBITIONS - GUIDED TOURS The Culture House – Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily between 11 am and 5 pm CAFETERIA - CULTURE SHOP National Centre for Cultural Heritage Free guided tour of THE MEDIEVAL MANU- Hverfi sgata 15 · 101 Reykjavík (City Centre) SCRIPTS exhibition Mon and Fri at 3:30 pm. Tel: 545 1400 · www.thjodmenning.is
LÉTTÖL Fíton ehf. / SÍA The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 09 — 2010 18
Alright. So here it is. Our second annual BEST OF REYKJAVÍK list is finally ready for all y’all to pour over. We have spent countless hours compiling the thing [via your suggestions, e-mails, Facebook comments and bar- talk] and we feel that it does provide some pretty good pointers about some of what makes Reykjavík-life worthwhile these days. And we are very happy to point it out and draw y’alls attention to it. See, as we said last year: “We love the great city of Reykjavík. We really do. In fact, we love it so much, we named our magazine after it – and most of us choose to live here for extended periods at a time.” Now, since our loving Reykjavík is most definitely the case, we sometimes feel like we’re spending a little too much time focusing on what’s missing, instead of celebrating what’s here. And this is the primary purpose of our now- annual BEST OF REYKJAVÍK list – to celebrate some of the stuff we feel somehow enriches our lives and adds to them. It’s about big-upping stuff, giving mad props to it and patting it on the shoulder. Sort of a print-version of the Facebook ‘like’ if you will. The list is of course by no means a scientific one, and it is certainly heavily contestable. It should be read as such. It should be used as a starting point for a conversation of appreciation; something for you folks to read, verify, distrust, totally disagree with, argue over, send us angry rants about and generally enjoy. It’s for fun, but we still hope it serves as some sort of guideline to enjoying our fair city. Here’s how we did it: Ever since last year’s BEST OF issue, we’ve been accepting readers thoughts on what’s BEST at [email protected], as well as conducting random polls on our Facebook, on the street and at the bar. Using your suggestions and arguments for guidance, we then assembled a couple of large panels of tasteful folks that represent pretty much every gender, income bracket and political affiliation to discuss. Below are the results. Enjoy, and remember to send your suggestions to [email protected] for consideration in our 2011 edition. Grapevine readers, friends, enemies and staff do the choosin’!
and crazy burgers to be found of Eldsmiðjan old-timers (from when Best coffeehouse: They score many bonus points for their around town. Almost immediately Eldsmiðjan was really, really, really “Kaffismiðjan OWN Reykjavík coffee superb location; after viewing some nice Reykjavík’s newest burger joint, good), Gamla smiðjan seem to handle these days. Why are we even debating art (or some Erró), you may sit down by Hamborgarafabrikkan, took the prize. every single order with care, love and a glass window overlooking the harbour THE this?” Our panel (and quite a few e-mails) respect. “What makes them great is a (2009: Kaffismiðjan) and feast your heart out! BEST OF agree that Hamborgarafabrikkan combination of the toppings, the crust (2009: Lobster soup at Sægreifinn) DINING REYKJAVÍK somehow manages to make even their and the attitude,” one reader remarked Best coffee to-go: most adventurous burgers (namely the in an e-mail, and this seems true. Now, Café D’Haiti Best place for a fancy meal: AND 2010 ‘Lamburger’ and that crazy chicken while it’s not the most charming place to Don’t go there to sit all day: Café D’Haiti Dill breast thing they offer) exceedingly tasty eat out at, they do deliveries, and we’ve is tiny. Their specially imported Haitian Dill came pretty close to winning this GRUBBING and satisfying. yet to receive a cold pizza from them. beans, the way they brew them and the category last time around, and from “It might be too zeitgeist-y and Runners-up: Devitos Pizza (“so friendly manner in which they all come what we can tell they have upped their too packed at this point—and I’m not consistent!”), Eldsmiðjan (“they still together to make it into a must-try cup of reach and reputation just enough to take exactly a big fan of the celeb-owners— bake a mean pie”), Saffran (“not your coffee, however. the prize in 2010. Folks REALLY love but you’ve gotta admit that once you’ve average pizza, but who needs average?”) Runner-up: Kaffifélagið (“that place Dill from what we can tell, with some of tried one of their specialty burgers you (2009: Devitos Pizza) has got some top notch coffee”), the letters we got damn near dripping instantly develop a craving to try all the Kaffismiðjan (“they OWN coffee!”) with the drool of overtly-impressed rest.” (2009: Kaffifélagið) patrons. “Everything comes together Best place to go for ice at Dill,” one reader noted, “The view is cream: amazing, the service is top notch and Best slice: Ísbúðin Ísland Best sushi: the Nordic-style food is to die for,” while Deli Along with selling some really nice Sushibarinn another commented: “I really think they Best burger: When we gave Deli the prize for ‘best standard soft serve, Ísland offers all sorts Sushibarinn scored the most votes are the premier restaurant in Iceland Hamborgarabúlla Tómasar slice’ last year, we argued that “getting of crazy flavoured scoops of the cold in this category, with one Facebook- today, even though their prices prevent After some pretty heated debate, our a good pizza on the go can be an stuff (beer? Rhubarb?), straight from the er remarking: “These guys should me from going as often as I would like. panel of amateurs finally decided to utter ordeal,” since lots of them were farm where it’s made in small batches. definitely win for best sushi, but they are Definitely the best fancy meal around.” award the ‘best burger’ category to cardboardy wafers that had been sitting Many remarked that while “their hand- already so popular that the queues often Runners-up: We like to proudly Hamborgarabúlla Tómasar—Búllan— in heater boxes for a week. “Not at Deli, made stuff is quite pricey, you’re willing deter me from getting my fix. Maybe it’s exclaim that Reykjavík is a great place for the second year in a row. Last year however. Their slices are consistently to pay the price for that ice cream.” They best not to point them out to others?” for fine dining, if you’ve got the money. they were pretty much a shoo-in for the awesome and fresh, the topping also get bonus points for having a bunch Last year’s winner, Gallery Restaurant title, but this time around their title was selection is intriguing and tasteful, and, of literature on cows and sheep to read (2009: Sushismiðjan) at Hotel Holt, haven’t lost a bit of their a bit more disputed. best of all, they’re really cheap.” After while one feasts. Make sure to try ‘em! charm and are always a safe bet. Fish This might mean that they are some minor debating this time around, (2009: Ísbúð Vesturbæjar) Company also got many votes, as did faltering, but we’re hoping it just means we came to the conclusion that nothing Best vegetarian: Primavera and The Grill at Hotel Saga. that Reykjavík has a better selection had changed. Congrats, Deli. Your slices Á næstu grösum Win a lottery and try them all out for of juicy burgers these days. In any rule. Best bakery: While vegetarian choices are becoming yourself ASAP. case, Búllan offers “consistency,” “an (2009: Deli) Sandholt more numerous in Reykjavík as of late, (2009: Gallery Restaurant at Hótel Holt) authentic and original burger,” and a Sandholt won this category hands down. the good people of Á næstu grösum “really nice atmosphere,” according to This downtown institution isn’t the remain at the top of this game. Large our panel. But watch your back, Búllan. Best drunken slice: cheapest bakery in town, but it certainly portions, vegan options and a nice Best place for grocery You are being challenged... Devitos/Pizza King TIE offers some of the finest baked goods location are some of what make them shopping: Runners-up: Vitabar (“nice and juicy,” This was argued about. A lot (drinking known to mankind. Try their cake, try stand out—also, their food is pretty Melabúðin “excellent location”), American Style and pizza: two things we care deeply their sandwiches, try their snúður. Just damn tasty! Iceland really isn’t the best place for (“an Icelandic Hamburger if there ever about). Many claim that Pizza King are try them out. grocery shopping, all things considered. was one”) ready to claim the title away from last (2009: Mosfellsbakarí) Runners-up: Krúska (“yet to prove Everything is overpriced, over-aged, and (2009: Hamborgarabúlla Tómasar) year’s winners, Devitos. Both places themselves, but still a damn tasty under-stocked, pretty much. But we are offer pretty much the same pizza for Best Indian food: meal.”) an island that relies heavily on imports, the same price, but Devitos won last Shalimar (2009: Á næstu grösum) so maybe it’s understandable in a way. Best veggie burger: year as they had been doing it for longer Shalimar took the prize this year, due to So while no one will deem grocery Saffran and were deemed “more consistent in their “authentic ingredients,” moderate shopping in Iceland an especially fun While last year’s winner, Drekinn, still quality.” pricing policy, “top-notch mango Best hangover meal: or constructive practice (especially offers up nice and cheap veggie burgers This time around the margin was lhassies” and ability to make “proper, The Truck at Prikið considering the fact that by spending for the discerning carnophobe, Saffran’s even tighter, so in the end we thought spicy food.” “Just make sure you note This category always brings some very money at some of the chains (well, veggie burgers seem to have earned they’d share the prize. It’s our list, that their menu items are usually much loud arguments, whether on e-mail all of them) you are “directly funding a reputation for being “inventive,” and we can do whatever we want with better than the day’s specials,” remarked or in person. Last year, we wound up some of the banksters that fucked us all “filling,” and “luxurious.” So they scored it. So this year’s drunken slice award one panellist. So we did. hopelessly deadlocked, OJ trial-style, over,” as one reader remarked), there are top vote this time around. goes to BOTH Devitos (“greasy, salty, (2009: Austur-Indía félagið) between the ‘trucks’ at Grái kötturinn places that make it bearable-to-awesome (2009: Drekinn) awesome”) and Pizza King (“greasy, and Prikið, before finally going with (depending on your budget). salty, awesome”), with Devitos getting Grái kötturinn (for the uninitiated, While last year’s winners, Krónan, minus points for being way up in 105 Best Thai food: ‘a truck’ usually entails bacon, eggs, are still in many respect the place for Best ‘specialty burger’: and Pizza King losing score due to Ban Thai pancakes and various other fried bulk grocery shopping (they are slightly Hamborgarafabrikkan sometimes-stale slices on offer, and the Again: Reykjavík is chock-full of high- delicacies). This time around, Prikið more expensive and better stocked, Last year, we called this category ‘Best often rowdy crowd there late at night. quality Thai restaurants, but Ban Thai won the vote. And it’s probably a good and slightly less evil than Bónus), this blue cheese burger’ and awarded it But you need to try both. remains the greatest. Folks noted lots of thing, as their trucks are a tad cheaper, year our panellists near unanimously to the very deserving Vitabar. We felt (2009: Devitos Pizza) reasons why: “They’re only a tad higher and when you’re ready to bid a final agreed that Melabúðin is the best place kinda stifled by the category, however, priced than some of the places, but a lot adieu to your hangover their beer is for grocery shopping in Reykjavík. as it is pretty much a given that if you’re better on quality and atmosphere. “It’s pretty cheap too. Melabúðin “isn’t the cheapest, but picking a blue cheese burger, Vitabar Best pizza: like some sort of magic world in there!” (2009: The Truck at Grái kötturinn) they provide the most satisfying and will take home the prize, every time Gamla smiðjan “It’s surprisingly fancy for the price.” healthy shopping experience to be had (you hear that Vitabar? You’ve just won Gamla smiðjan won this one hands “Thai people eat there!” in Reykjavík. The community feel is our ‘Best Reykjavík blue cheese burger, down. This very welcome addition (2009: Ban Thai) Best soup: very generous and warming.” Readers ever!’ award!). to Reykjavík’s pizza palette has been Most soups at Súpubarinn also loved the fact that they have So we thought we’d expand it to steadily winning over fans since they Súpubarinn at Reykjavík Art Gallery working butcher and fresh fish tables, ‘Best specialty burger’, effectively opened for business last year, and with (Hafnarhús) serves up some really and noted that their selection of food is opening it up for all the fancy good reason too. Operated by a group delicious soup, for a pretty fair price. “staggering, especially in light of their EXHIBITION 17.06-04.07 KNITART 2010 17.06 – 04.07 / NORDIC HOUSE Loops 2010 is an all-encompassing yarncraft festival featuring exhibitions, performance art, workshops, inspirational talks, markets and off-venue events. It celebrates the creativity found in knitting and crochet and ushers you into a world where everything is soft, colorful and intricately crafted.
Isabel Berglund (DK) Vivian Høxbro (DK) Patricia Waller (DE) Helga Isager (DK) Sarah Applebaum (USA) Evelyn Clark (USA) Rósa S. Jónsdóttir (IS) Arndís Sigurbjörnsdóttir (IS) Helene Magnusson (FRA) Katrina I Geil (FO) Masquerade (SE) Patrick Hassel-Zein (SE) Pickles.no (NO) Vík Prjónsdóttir (IS)
Check out the complete program at: www.nordichouse.is Register for workshops: [email protected]
surprising nature | gravel roads | crazy weather
Check out our website www.safetravel.is for safe returning
We want you out of here – alive! The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 09 — 2010 20 small size. It’s a winner!” Best goddamn restaurant: went there and checked it out, and we a little so we could bring your attention accommodating to both impoverished Runners-up: Krónan, for being a Saffran consulted with other family types out to the brunch buffet at Nítjánda. Yes, students and big spenders (and it suits less-evil Bónus. Bónus, for their Saffran came in with a blast in early there. And thus it was concluded: Piri it is in Kópavogur, but this place is most tastes), the food is good and the comparatively ultra-low prices and 2009, quickly winning a following piri is Reykjavík’s family restaurant of definitely worth the short trip. Located atmosphere is very fine for sitting, accessibility. And as always, Kjötborg for their cheap, plentiful and healthy- 2010. on the 19th floor of Kópavogur’s highest eating and drinking all night long. They gets an honourable mention for offering slanted (no sugar, no white wheat, lots Runners-up: Both Lauga-Ás and Hornið high-rise, they provide some truly also score points for operating a late the best service in the known universe. of grain and spelt) take on Eastern are still very good in this category, and a fantastic all you can eat brunch along night kitchen. (2009: Krónan) cuisine. They’ve since opened up at a lot of folks swear by them. with a truly beautiful view. (New category) second location and even inspired a slew (2009: Hornið) (2009: Vox) Best place to go for a date: of ‘Saffran-inspired’ establishments all Best all-day hangout: Pisa over town. We even hear they’re going Best place to grab a bite: Best restaurant chain: Hressó Italian restaurants seem to bring up the international now. Deli Serrano Hressó is one of those places that have romantic side in our readers. Probably It’s no wonder they’re doing well. Deli seems to be a lot of folks favourites Serrano specialises in huge and tasty long since earned an undefined “Best has a lot to do with all the pasta, red The food is consistently great and cheap for this category, although they didn’t burritos that come in all sorts of of” status in all our hearts. We go there wine and candle light on offer we (“I go there every week, and they have win unanimously by any stretch. flavours, and they’re supposedly rather almost daily, the coffee is always fine, imagine. Or maybe, as one panellist never messed up my order,” remarked Nominations for this category were healthy, too. Much like last year, our the staff are nice and it’s an excellent noted last year: “Italian food gets you in one patron), and varied enough to merit scattered across the entire spectrum, panel agreed that “Serrano is king of place to hang out. Hressó is a true 101 the mood.” repeat visits. Last year, we decided that with everyone from Santa María (last Reykjavík’s restaurant chains, their Reykjavík haven, doubly so if you’re In any case, last year’s winners, a ‘best goddamn restaurant’ must be year’s winner) to KFC and Shell Select argument boiling down to ‘Serrano unlucky enough to be a smoker, in Ítalía, received many nominations this “cheap + tasty + varied + fresh + novel with their shrimp-dogs scoring votes. rules!’” which case their heated patio rules very time around, but so did Italian stalwart + accessible”. Phrases you readers used But ultimately Deli got the majority vote, (2009: Serrano) profoundly. Pisa on Lækjargata. In fact, they received to nominate Saffran with were: “good, and some convincing arguments to boot (2009: Hressó) a couple more than Ítalía, so it is our inventive cooking;” “consistent in (“they’re cheap and pretty high quality!” honour to deem them Reykjavík’s “best quality,” “affordable” and “attainable.” So – “Not the best place to eat in, but most Best seafood: place to go for a date” of 2010. Remarked it was easy pickens. Congrats, Saffran, excellent as take away, i.e. a great place to Fish Company Best must try dining one reader: “The food on offer is just so you are Grapevine’s BEST GODDAMN ‘grab a bite’!”) Surprisingly enough, Reykjavík doesn’t experience: gooooood... and since it isn’t a common RESTAURANT of 2010! (2009: Santa María) have that many places specialising in Moby Dick on a Stick at Sægreifinn place to go for a meal, you don’t have to fresh seafood. But most of the ones You will try some pylsa while you’re worry about bumping into workmates or (Sidenote: Frankly, we were afraid to around are actually pretty good, with in Iceland, unless you’re all vegan friends there.” even include this category, seeing as Best cheap meal: Fish Market, Fish Company and Við and stuff. So there’s no need for us to (2009: Ítalía) our ‘BEST GODDAMN RESTAURANT Sub of the month’ at Subway tjörnina all doing some outstanding recommend that. Now, since you’re not OF 2009,’ closed down pretty much As almost any working man or woman work in their field. Fish Company vegan, then you also must try some Best newcomer restaurant: right after we picked ‘em. We’re afraid it in Reykjavík will attest, Subway’s ‘sub of got the most votes this time around, ‘Moby Dick on a Stick’ at Sægreifinn by Noodle Station might be a jinx-category. But then again, the month’ sandwich is a real lifesaver though, with patrons remarking that Reykjavík harbour. These minke-whale This didn’t take long to figure out. While we think ‘best goddamn restaurant’ is for when you need to get a quick their culinary skills and inventive menu skewers are cheap and delicious to their menu is limited to two dishes (and something that needs to be highlighted. satisfying lunch. OK, it’s Subway. But wholly justified spending your week’s munch on, plus you can piss off all your not at all vegetarian-friendly), there’s So here’s hoping that Saffran don’t still – 370 ISK will get you a sandwich wages on eating there. PC friends back home. Pure fun! just something about Noodle Station’s throw in the towel anytime soon). featuring some meatstuffs (that can Runners-up: Við tjörnina is a Reykjavík (2009: Bæjarins Bestu) noodles that keeps folks hooked, like (2009: Segurmo at Boston) be easily foregone) fresh veggies and classic, with a lovely atmosphere to go they’re some sorta heroin-infused crack- a sauce of your choice. The price can’t with their excellent dishes, and Fish noodles or something. The Station also be beat, and if you figure out a nice Market is pretty damn good too. They’ll Best tourist one-stop-shop: provides “an international atmosphere Best family restaurant: combination for the sub it’s pretty damn take the prize next year, probably. Kaffi Loki that’s been missing from Reykjavík.” We Piri piri tasty. (New category) Kaffi Loki at Lokastígur won this one don’t know if they’re actually sprinkling “Piri piri just has to win your ‘best Runners-up: Balkanika (“They are really uncontested. And it’s not only a place their noodles with crack (that’s probably family restaurant,’ Grapevine! Have you cheap, especially considering all the where tourists can try all of Iceland’s illegal), but we do know we’re totally seen their playroom? It’s HUUUUUGE! meat”) Best place to go with a weird and wacky foodstuffs (as well obsessed with the place. Welcome, The whole setup of the place also seems group of friends: as some decidedly delicious, un-weird Noodle Station! very family-oriented—they’ve been Tapas Bar dishes), it’s also a great little café/bistro (2009: Saffran) a regular Sunday stop for us and the Best brunch buffet: Tapas Bar has long been the best that locals love to frequent along with kids since they opened. Also, the food Nítjánda place to go out with a group of friends visitors. Definitely one of Reykjavík’s is good, plentiful and cheap,” read an After much urging from some of our in Reykjavík, and this likely won’t up-and-comers, and already a champion e-mail we received the other day. So we panellists, we decided to bend the rules change anytime soon. Their menu is in its own category. (New category)
experience in itself. It’s also right in Best place to spend a rainy neighbourhood in 101 Reykjavík is Best place to go gay the middle of downtown, and it is an day: always a life-affirming experience. cruising: THE architectural miracle, goddamnit! A hot tub There are all sorts of tiny streets to be Ö skjuhlíð BEST OF Runners-up: Vesturbæjarlaug (“The While Borgarbókasafnið didn’t get any explored, noisy parties to be passed-by While gay cruising in Reykjavík will tub talk gets intense in there! It’s an worse since winning this category last and cuddly cats to greet. The houses are usually take place on the internet or at REYKJAVÍK excellent place to meet people...”) year (indeed, you will have a good time all tiny and lovely, and the air smells of a club or bar, Öskjuhlíð is often named ACTIVITIES (2009: Sundhöll Reykjavíkur) 2010 spending a rainy day there – or a hot trees and parties past. A fine place to as a primary location for informal and sunny one, for that matter), many stroll along daydreamin’, especially as male hook-ups in the Reykjavík gay readers were intent on pointing out the twilight sets in. community, mostly due to the fact that Best art museum: pleasures of any of Reykjavík’s hot pots (2009: Laugardalur) it’s peaceful, beautiful and free. It is a Listasafn Reykjavíkur for a rainy day distraction. Who are we cruising place reminiscent of big cities’ Listasafn Reykjavíkur have been doing to argue? parks, although you can’t really expect an excellent job as of late. The shows on (2009: Borgarbókasafnið) Best romantic walk: to score so much. But if you do, you can display span everything from grassroots Sæbraut bet it’s interesting. offerings to highbrow high-art, they This might sound cliché, but walking Runners-up: On weekends, Barbara is a regularly feature some very interesting Best place to rent a movie: Sæbraut as the sun sets (or rises – we solid place for gay adventures (for both lectures and events – and they are an Laugarásvideó burned to the ground can barely tell these days to be honest) genders, too!). It’s also a totally nice bar. excellent place to go for soup (not really shortly after winning this category with a loved one, stopping to take in the Dudes that make dress code should also an art museum’s job, but still a nice super-popular photo-op sculpture Sólfar Best pool (all-round): last year. Then they rebuilt. And they try and find out the location for the local bonus). Our panellists agreed that the somehow managed to retain their as well as Yoko Ono’s Peace Column (secret) Leather Bar, proudly serving Laugardalslaug Listasafn Reykjavíkur team have been ‘biggest fucking film, TV show and (when it’s turned on, in winter), is pretty Iceland’s leather community for years. It seems everyone has a favourite pool. doing a great job, and they deserve a big whatever else that's pressed to DVD goddamn romantic. If the weather’s This isn’t really surprising given the fact ol’ pat on the back. Good work, team! collection in Europe’ status throughout right and the sun colours the sky, there’s that going to the pool is pretty much (2009: Einar Jónsson museum and sculpture the transition. Laugarásvideó: our hats really nothing better. Bonus points for Icelanders’ (old and new) favourite Best place to enjoy a Zen garden) are permanently off to y'all! Stay strong. being an easy cab-hailing point, if the hobby. In fact, all of the pools in town moment: (2009: Laugarásvídeó) mood strikes ya. Sit in front of Alþingi and have a Zen got mentioned, and even some out of Runner-up: Öskjuhlíð. ‘Cuz we love it. moment, will you? It seems like it really town ones (the pools in Seltjarnarnes Best gallery: (2009: Öskjuhlíð) needs it. and Kópavogur, for instance). In i8 Gallery (2009: Reykjavík Botanical Gardens) the end, we decided to go with Best biking tour: As one commentator remarked: “in Ægissíða-Elliðaárdalur Laugardalslaug yet again, since they Iceland, i8 Gallery are truly in a league Alright. We all know biking around is Best place to go for a jog: are pretty much ‘the mall’ of Icelandic of their own. Even though many a fun, healthy and excellent way to kill Laugardalur pools, offering up a wide array of hot Best place to cheer up: of the other ones are doing well for some time. Last year, we big-upped Our panel of expert joggers agreed Húsdýragarðurinn tubs, a freaking excellent new disco themselves, there will be a long time the Grandi-Nauthólsvík route, which that Laugardalurinn is without doubt Nothing has changed since last year, slide and some nice kiddie facilities. But until they reach the standard set by i8.” is great for coastline sightseeing, THE place to jog in Reykjavík. It has so we’ll just repeat what we said then: the rest of them rule equally hard, so (2009: Gallery Kling og Bang) picnic-eating and general getting-some- lots of things going for it: it’s almost Some people like revelling in their be sure not to discriminate. Deciding wind-in-your-face-and-being-all-joyous- never windy, there are several paths of misery when The Blues attack. That which pool you’re visiting on a given day about-life. This year, we’re going to shift differing length available, and you can is all fine and well, and gives ample is always a fun task. Best museum: our sights a little, but not too much. go swimming afterwards. You can also opportunity to enjoy some good old Runners-up: Every other pool in Þjóðmenningarhús Instead of starting at Grandi, you should jog through the Reykjavík Botanical depressing music. Sometimes, though, Reykjavík. And outside of Reykjavík. Their current ‘Icelandic film’ exhibit start at Ægissíða, bike past Öskjuhlíð Gardens, and they just smell so lovely! you’ll wish for a speedy recovery so you They all rule. Pools rule! (see more elsewhere in this issue) makes and Nauthólsvík and go all the way to (2009: Elliðaárdalur) can get back into the happy rhythm of (2009: Laugardalslaug) Þjóðmenningarhús (“The Culture Elliðaárdalur. Once there, you can find life, and what better place to do so than House”) a shoo-in for this category. It a nice spot by the river, munch on some at Húsdýragarðurinn – Reykjavík’s very really is worth spending the day there. lunch and ponder life. It’ll be good – we Best place to go fishing: own petting zoo. Animals are awesome, Best pool (for hot tubbing, Since you’re into museums, be sure to True, Elliðaá has the salmon, but any lounging): promise. and funny. check out Þjóðminjasafn Íslands and (2009: Grandi-Nauthólsvík) dock in Reykjavík will provide ample If the baby seals don’t cheer you up, Sundhöll Reykjavíkur Árbæjarsafn too, though. They are also quantities of bull rout and pollock. and the piglets don’t cheer you up, and Sorry to be repetitive, but there’s really pretty excellent. While you shouldn’t technically eat he sheep don’t cheer you up, and none none better than Sundhöll Reykjavíkur dockfish, sitting at the harbour and of the other animals do.... you probably for hot tubbing. The tubs are hot Best place to go for a walk: Þingholt pulling some up can be a real treat. don’t stand a chance. and relaxing, and venturing through Strolling through the Þingholt (2009: Elliðaárdalur) their dressing room is a worthwhile Music, Art, Films and Events Listings + Eating, Drinking and Shopping + Map Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland Issue 09 - 2010 www.grapevine.is MUSIC CONCERTS & NIGHTLIFE IN JULY
Prescribing with love Havarí 8 16:00 Music & Art, featuring music by THU music for your live Nóra and art by Julia Staples, Ásdís Sif, and Morri. Bakkus experience Hressó DJ Einar Sonic 22:00 Ímynd followed by DJ Fannar. Café Óliver How to use the listings Kaffibarinn Ingó weathergod. Beer for 600 ISK. Venues are listed alphabetically by day. DJ Maggi Legó Café Rósenberg For complete listings and detailed Karamba 21:00 Melchior, Album release show. information on venues visit 22:00 Blæti Reunion Den Danske Kro www.grapevine.is 23:45 DJ Gisli Galdur 22:00 Live music. P Dubliner Cocktails and Lounge music. 22:30 Live music. 2 Prikið English Pub FRI 22:00 Árni Kocoon 22:00 Live music. Sódóma Hallgrímskirkja Apótek 23:00 Mínus and Agent Fresco. 500 12:00 International Organ Summer, 00:00 House DJ ISK. Lára Bryndís Eggertsdóttir plays Bakkus organ. 1000 ISK. DJ Della Rósa 4 Hressó Barbara SUN 22:00 Offside 21:00 Sing-a-long screening of Rocky Kaffibarinn Horror. Café Óliver DJ Halli Valli 23:00 Viggó & Víóletta in Rocky Hor- Summer Sunday banana split á la Óliver. Karamba ror 900 ISK & live music. 21:00 DJ Siggi Sivertsen 1000 ISK. Free drink if dressed as a char- Den Danske Kro Prikið acter!. 12:00 Live music. Beer for 600 ISK after 17:00 Coxbutter. Café Óliver 19:00. Thorvaldsen Ladies Night, 3 for 1 mojitos & straw- English Pub 16:30 Salsa Night. 16:30 beginners, berry daquiris. DJ Maggi all night. 22:00 Live music. 21:30 everyone Café Rosenberg Hallgrímskirkja 21:00 Ryan Karazija and Ferlegheit. 17:00 International Organ Summer, 9 Celtic Cross Christian Præstholm plays. 1500 ISK. FRI 01:00 Live music. Prikið Den Danske Kro 22:00 Hangover movie night, 5th Ele- Apótek 22:00 Live music. ment. Bruce Willis shake only 650 ISK 22:00 DJ Aki Dubliner until 22:00. Bakkus 22:30 Live music. Villa Reykjavík, DJ Árni Sveins & DJ English Pub 5 Honky 20:30 Live music. MON Café Óliver Hressó Ladies Night, 3 for 1 mojitos & straw- Dalton followed by DJ Fannar. Bakkus berry daquiris. DJ Brynjar Már all night. Kaffibarinn Movie night, showing Husbands. Café Rósenberg DJ KGB Café Óliver 21:00 Hrafnaspark "Jass". Karamba Margarita Monday, 2 for 1 on margaritas Celtic Cross 23:45 DJ Pablo Pedersen & live music. 01:00 Live music. P Café Rósenberg Den Danske Kro Cocktails and Lounge music. 21:00 Silfurberg. 22:00 Live music. Prikið Den Danske Kro Dubliner 22:00 Dóri DNA and Beggi, then DJ 22:00 Live music. 22:30 Live music. Monshine. Dubliner English Pub Sódóma 22:30 Live music. 20:30 Live music. 23:00 Pearl Jam Tribute. 1000 ISK. English Pub Havarí Venue 22:00 Live music. 17:00 Villa Reykjavík House Band Open 22:00 Fortíð, Forgarður Helvítis, Prikið Rehearsal. Wistaria, Carpe Noctem. 21:00 Fortune teller. Hemmi & Valdi Red wine & cheese for 2, only 1000 ISK. Live band & DJ. 3 DJ Blush. Hressó SAT 22:00 Silfur followed by DJ Fúsi Kaffibarinn Apótek 6 Sexy Lazer 00:00 House DJ TUE P Bakkus Cocktails and Lounge music. DJ KGB Café Óliver Prikið Café Óliver Live karaoke with Raggi Troubadour. 22:00 Jenni & Franz then Danni D. Tropical Girls Night. 3 for 1 on pina Beer/wine 600 ISK. Venue coladas & sex on the beach. DJ Maggi Café Rósenberg Villa Reykjavík Café Rósenberg 21:00 Eddie Walker, the british guitarist 21:00 Hera Hjartardóttir and Band. will be playing. 1000 ISK. 10 Celtic Cross Den Danske Kro SAT 01:00 Live music. 22:00 Live music. Den Danske Kro Dubliner Apótek 12:00 Live music. 22:30 Live music. 22:00 DJ Aki Dubliner English Pub Bakkus 22:30 Live music. 22:00 Live music. Villa Reykjavík, DJ Kári. English Pub Prikið Café Óliver 20:30 Live music. FÍFA Worldcup on the big screen. Beer Tropical Girls Night, 3 for 1 on pina Hallgrímskirkja only 350 ISK. DJ Krúsi. coladas & sex on the beach. DJ Brynjar 12:00 International Organ Summer, Már. Christian Præstholm plays Bach, 1000 7 Café Rósenberg ISK. WED 22:00 Ragga Gröndal and The Fancy Toys. Bakkus Celtic Cross DJ Laufey 01:00 Live music. Café Óliver Den Danske Kro Kiwi Party & live music. 12:00 Live music. Café Rósenberg Dubliner 21:00 Fimm í Tango 22:30 Live music. Den Danske Kro English Pub 22:00 Live music. 20:30 Live music. Dubliner Hallgrímskirkja 22:30 Live music. 12:00 International Organ Summer, English Pub Dame Gillian Weir plays the organ. 22:00 Live music. 1000 ISK. Hallgrímskirkja Havarí 12:00 International Organ Summer, 17:00 Villa Reykjavík House Band Open chamber choir Schola Cantorum Rehearsal. Reykjavicencis. 1000 ISK. Hressó Prikið 22:00 Menn followed by DJ Fúsi 23:00 DJ House. Kaffibarinn Sódóma Alfons X 22:00 Kimi Records Summer Fun Tour P with Reykjavík!, Morðingjarnir, Cocktails and Lounge music. Retrön, Swords of Chaos & Me The Prikið Slumbering Napoleon. 23:00 Addi Intro. Venue Venue 22:00 LOMAS (loads of music and shit) Villa Reykjavík with Munnfylli af Galli, Ojbarasta, Frankie Teardrop. Dubliner Prikið 11 23:00 DJ House. SUN . 22:30 Live music. English Pub Sódóma 22:00 Kimi Records Summer Fun Tour Bakkus 22:00 Live music. with Kimono, Stafrænn Hákon, Qua- Villa Reykjavík Havarí druplos, & Tape Tum. Café Óliver 17:00 Villa Reykjavík House Band Final Venue Summer Sunday banana split á la Óliver Concert. Villa Reykjavík 900 ISK & live music. Prikið Café Rosenberg FÍFA Worldcup on the big screen. Beer 21:00 Halla Norðfjörd. for just 350 ISK. DJ Gauti. 15 Den Danske Kro Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum THU 12:00 Live music. Beer for 600 ISK after 20:30 Trio MMX perform music for Bakkus 19:00. woodwinds. 1500 ISK. Villa Reykjavík, Músikölski Dubliner Venue Café Óliver 22:30 Live music. Villa Reykjavík Live music by Ingó Weathergod. Beer English Pub for 600 ISK. 22:00 Live music. 14 Café Rosenberg Hallgrímskirkja WED 21:00 Klezmer-Kads. 17:00 International Organ Summer, Den Danske Kro Dame Gillian Weir plays the organ. Bakkus 22:00 Live music. 1500 ISK. Villa Reykjavík, DJ Óli Dóri Dubliner Havarí Café Óliver 22:30 Live music. 14:00 Villa Reykjavík House Band Open Kiwi Party & live music. English Pub Rehearsal. Café Rósenberg 22:00 Live music. Prikið 21:00 Cathlín Lesperance. Hallgrísmkirkja 22:00 Hangover movie night, Never- Den Danske Kro 12:00 International Organ Summer, ending Story. Free popcorn. 22:00 Live music. Sigrún Magna Þórsteinsdóttir plays Venue Dubliner the organ. 1000 ISK. Villa Reykjavík 22:30 Live music. Hressó English Pub 22:00 Live music. 22:00 Jogvan og Vignir 12 Karamba MON Hallgrímskirkja 12:00 International Organ Summer, 22:00 DJ Santiago P Bakkus chamber choir Schola Cantorum 2-for-1 white wine and Grolsch beer. Villa Reykjavík Reykjavicencis. 1000 ISK. Prikið Den Danske Kro Hressó Ripp Rapp & Rupp with Mc Gauta 22:00 Live music. 22:00 Offside Café Óliver Margarita Monday 2 for 1 on margaritas & live music. Café Rosenberg Music & Entertainment | Venue finder 21:00 Markús Bjarnason & The Di- version Sessions, album release show. Amsterdam Celtic Cross Þorvaldsenstræti 2 | E3 Dubliner Hafnarstræti 5 | D2 Hverfisgata 26 | E4 Nýlenduvöruverzlun Hemma 22:30 Live music. Apótek Dillon & Valda English Pub Austurstræti 16 | E3 Laugavegur 30 | F5 Laugavegur 21 | E4 22:00 Live music. Austur Dubliner Næsti Bar Prikið Austurstræti 7 | E3 Hafnarstræti 4 | D3 Ingólfstræti 1A | E3 Red wine & cheese for 2, only 1000 ISK. B5 English Pub Óliver DJ Blush. Bankastræti 5 | E3 Austurstræti 12 | D2 Laugavegur 20A | F5 21:00 Fortune teller. Babalú Glaumbar Ölstofan Venue Skólavörðustígur 22 | G5 Tryggvagata 20 | D2 Vegamótastígur | E4 Villa Reykjavík Bar 11 Highlander Prikið Laugavegur 11 | E4 Lækjargata 10 | E3 Bankastræti | E3 13 Barbara Hressó Rósenberg TUE Laugavegur 22 | F6 Austurstræti 20 | E3 Klapparstígur 25 | E4 Bjarni Fel Hverfisbarinn Sódóma Reykjavík Bakkus Austurstræti 20 | E3 Hverfisgata 20 | E4 Tryggvagata 22 | D3 Villa Reykjavík Boston Jacobsen Sólon Café Óliver Laugavegur 28b | F5 Austurstræti 9 | E3 Bankastræti 7A | E3 Live karaoke with Raggi Troubadour. Café Cultura Kaffi Zimsen Thorvaldsen Beer/wine 600 ISK. Hverfisgata 18 | E4 Hafnarstræti 18 | D3 Austurstræti 8 | D2 Café Rósenberg 21:00 Three singers. Café Paris Kaffibarinn Vegamót Austurstræti 14 | E3 Bergstraðastræti 1 | E4 Vegamótastígur 4 | E4 Den Danske Kro 22:00 Live music. Balthazar Karamba Venue Hafnarstræti 1-3| D2 Laugavegur 22 | F4 Tryggvagata 22 | D3 NASA
12 July 7 10 July July
Toy Tour! The Fancy Toys & Ragnheiður Gröndal Tour Round Iceland All over Iceland!
London-based band The Fancy Toys Happy Diversions is collaborating with Icelandic singer and pianist Ragnheiður Gröndal for Markús & The Diversion Sessions their upcoming tour around Iceland. 21:00 @ Café Rósenberg The Fancy Toys is comprised of James Duncan and Mickaël who both play After the bitter-sweet departure of the much-loved Skátar last summer, some crazy instruments. A bubble singer Markús Bjarnason returns to the scene with his debut album 'Now gun, glockenspiel, ukulele, stylophone, melodeon and the shoe-tambo are some I Know'. The album includes songs that have been piling up for 10 years, of the fancy toys you can expect to see the man now goes by the moniker Markús & The Diversion Sessions and on stage. Their catchy tunes will sure to steers clear of noisy prog-rock, instead concentrating on pop and acoustic bring out your inner child (unless you sounds. In light of this, he will be playing at Café Rósenberg in promotion are a child and you´ll just seem normal). of his new release. Warming up will be his friend Þóra Björk, performing They are playing in Akureyri on July 7th songs from her album I Am A Tree Now. Come celebrate this momentous at 21:00, Húsavík on July 8th at 21:00, occasion for just 800 ISK, and don't forget to purchase a copy of his new Mývatn on July 9th at 22:00, and in album! AY Reykjavík on July 10th at 22:00. EB 3 July 3 24 July July
Bring Your Rebel Yell Painting Sites The Mob Against The Ingunn Fjóla Ingthórsdóttir @ Gallery Ágúst Prosecution The Living Art Museum @ This month Gallery Ágúst invites you to view a piece of art work from within. Artist Ingunn Fjóla Ingthórsdóttir lets the viewer experience art through 17:00 – 22:00 sight, mind and kinetic energy in her exhibition Painting Site. As the viewer Free enters the gallery they will witness painted chipboards propped into an upright position which one can walk between, creating a spacial artistic Be sure to stop by this solidarity atmosphere. Each chipboard presents an individual piece of art, but as you event going down at Nýló – The move further the plates gradually intertwine to reveal the entire project. The Living Art Museum – this Saturday. idea is to transform the viewer's idea of the visual to the physical as one The event is in support of the uses their body to journey through each piece of art to the next. Go check notorious “Reykjavík Nine,” the out the opening on July 3 at 16:00 and maybe you too can experience this protestors who have been accused spiritual awakening. AY of disrupting the peace during a session of parliament in the January protests of last year. The Nine are currently standing trial. Many Icelandic musicians, 2 artists, writers, and poets will be July performing at this event, including Einar Már Guðmundsson, Ragnar Kjartansson, Sara Björnsdóttir, Arnljótur Sigurðsson, Reykjavík! and more. Be sure to get out there and show some love. AS
Trve Blck! Fortíð & guests July 2, Venue @ 22:00, 18+ Numismatic Museum July 3, TÞM @ 20:00, All The Denton Affair ages Rocky Horror Sing-A-Long & Cabaret Both concerts 1500 ISK Barbara @ 21:00
This is a long awaited homecoming. After Viggó and Víóletta present the first of many Cabaret Nights at Barbara. moving off to Norway a few years back, This Friday the entertainment starts at 21:00 with a rompous sing-a-long homegrown Black Metal legend Eldur is returnin screening of The Rocky Horror Picture Show. Take part and throwdown with his band Fortíð. A prolific and renowned artist of the genre almost everywhere except in with your best Time Warp, plead along with Janet for someone to touch-a Iceland, Eldur is also known for his solo projects, touch-a touch-a touch you and laugh at this uproarious screening. If you such as Curse and Potentiam. Now fresh off the dress up as your own favourite Transylvanian you can score yourself a free release of the final album of their Völuspá trilogy, drink. The Central Bank and National Museum of Iceland jointly operate Fall Of The Ages, Fortíð will descend upon After the screening, Viggo and Víóletta take to the stage and perform a numismatic collection that consists of Icelandic notes and coins, Reykjavík in all their grim glory. a cabaret-inspired rendition of various scenes from the notorious musical. foreign money from earlier times, especially if mentioned in Icelan- The first of their shows this weekend is on It’s sure to be an wild night, filled with corsets, fishnets, and spiked heels. dic sources, and more recent currency from Iceland’s main trading Friday night at Venue, and will be supported by Come along for the ride to the Frankenstein’s place. AS crazy grindcore guys Forgarður Helvítis, death partner countries. A selection from the numismatic collection is on metallers Wistaria and blackest-of-Black Metal display in showcases on the ground floor of the Central Bank’s main band Carpe Noctem. This one is only for the building. adults, kids, but on Saturday at TÞM a.k.a. The Cave, they will play an all-ages gig with an ALL BLACK METAL line up! Saturdays starter acts Situated in the Central Bank´s main building in Kalkofnsvegur 1, Reykjavík. Open Mon.-Fri. 13:30-15:30. Free admittance. are Chao, Pissanthrope and Atrum. Be sure to get all corpse-painted and stuff. RL
Outside Reykjavík | Venue finder
Keflavík Akureyri Egilsstaðir Suðsuðvestur Akureyri Art Museum Sláturhúsið www.sudsudvestur.is www.listasafn.akureyri.is Kaupvangi 7 Hafnargata 22 Kaupvangsstræti 12 700 Egilsstaðir 230 Reykjanesbær 600 Akureyri 470-0692 421-2225 461 2610 Seyðisfjörður Hafnarfjörður Populus Tremula Skaftfell Hafnarborg poptrem.blogspot.com/ www.skaftfell.is www.hafnarborg.is Kaupvangsstræti 12 Austurvegur 42 Strandgata 34 600 Akureyri 710 Seyðisfjörður CENTER FOR 220 Hafnarfjörður 472-1632 VISUAL ART 585-5790 Kunstraum Wohnraum Ásabyggð 2 Hveragerði Borgarnes 600 Akureyri LÁ Art The Icelandic Settlement Centre www.listasafnarnesinga.is www.landnam.is Mývatn Austurmörk 21 Brákarbraut 13-15 Mývatnsstofa 210 Hveragerði 310 Borgarnes Hraunvegi 8 483-1727 437-1600 660 Mývatn NEW BAR MENU 464-4390 South Africa 2010 offer: Viking beer and food for ISK 1000,- Stykkishólmur www.visitmyvatn.is Vatnasafnið / Library of Water www.facebook.com/kaffibarinn www.libraryofwater.is
No photographing allowed OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK by the sea CONCERTS & EVENTS IN JULY and a delicios lobster at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri Prescribing with love Ragga Gröndal & The Fancy Toys The Folk Music Centre, Siglufjörður 22:00 Gamli Bærinn, Mývatn 13:00 - 17:00 all June music for your live Gamli Baukur, Húsavík 10 Let´s Talk Local experience SAT 15:30 Comedy show about Reykjavík, Árstíðir 2200 ISK/1100 ISK for kids. How to use the listings 22:00 Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri The Ghost Centre, Stokkseyri Venues are listed alphabetically by day. Hjaltalín Night at the Ghost Museum For complete listings and detailed Siglufjarðarkirkja, Siglufjörður An offer for two to spend a scary night at -Spör Ragnheiður ehf. Ágústsdóttir information on venues visit the Ghost Centre. 3500 ISK. www.grapevine.is 11 Hafnarborg, Hafnarfjörður SUN Formal Discipline Matthías I. Sigurðsson & María Runs until August 22 Arnardóttir Exhibition of work by Eiríkur Smith. MUSIC 16:00 Gljúfrasteinn, Mosfellsbær Hótel Varmahlíð Performance on clarinet and piano. Horses & Men 2 Runs until January 1, 2011 FRI 13 Photographic exhibition which looks into Blue Ice Band TUE the history of the horse, spanning 100 21:00 Tjarnarborg, Ólafsfjörður Hjaltalín years . Blues Festival in Ólafsfjörður. Playing Samkomuhúsið, Hrísey The Husavik Whale Museum with The Dirty Deal Blues Band and Playing with Lára Rúnars. Whale & Marine Exhibit Devil Train. + 9:00 - 19:00 all June, July & August Hjaltalín 14 Includes detailed info about whale Krúsin, Ísafjörður WED habitat, biology, ecology, strandings & Playing with Lára Rúnars. Hjaltalín history in Iceland Ljótu Hálfvitarnir Reykjahlíðarkirkja, Mývatn The Icelandic Settlement Centre, 22:00 Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri K-Tríó Borgarnes 21:00 Græni Hautturinn, Akureyri The Egil Saga/ Settlement Exhibition 3 In these exhibitions The Settlement Cen- SAT 15 tre tells the sagas of Iceland's settlement Eddie Walker THU and Egill Skallagrímsson, Iceland's most 21:00 Vinaminni Café, Westman Hera famous viking and first poet . Islands 21:00 Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri The Kópavogur Art Museum British guitarist and singer will be play- July 3 - August 22 ing. Free entry. Summer exhibit. Gæðablóð Ljosafoss Power Station 21:00 Tjarnarborg, Ólafsfjörður ART Nature In Design Blues Festival in Ólafsfjörður. Playing June 19 - August 28 with Mood and Segulbandið. OPENINGS Exhibition of Icelandic designers who Hjaltalín find inspiration in nature. Félagsheimilið, Þingeyri Tengja Mosfellsbær Gallery Ljótu Hálfvitarnir Café Karólína, Akureyri Moso Mongo Memory Mix 22:00 Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri July 3 - August 6 June 5 - July 3 Exhibit featuring photographs by Hrefna Snorri Ásmundsson introduces his 4 Harðardóttir. surprise exhibition. SUN Rhyme Pompei of the North, Westman Hjaltalín Akureyri Art Museum Islands Sjóræningjahúsið, Patreksjörður July 3 - August 22 Excavation project at the site of the Kristinn Árnason Works by Ásmundur Sveinsson. 1973 volcanic eruption on the island of 16:00 Gljúfrasteinn, Mosfellsbær Æring Heimaey. Classical Guitar. 1000 ISK. Salt House, Stöðvarfjörður Reykjanes Art Museum, Reykjanes- Ljótu Hálfvitarnir 17:00 July 3 - July 29 bær 22:00 Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri Art festival featuring artists from Crymo 11:00 - 17:00 every weekday, 13:00 - gallery as well as many other Icelandic 17:00 every weekend. 6 and foreign artists. Safnahus Museum TUE Art Feast 1 Aquarium & Museum of Natural His- Icelandic Folk and Outsider Art tory in Vestmannæyjar HISTORY AT 7 Museum, Akureyri Mounted birds & fish, aquarium, and WED July 11 - September 5 rocks & mineral display. Hjaltalín 50 pieces by multiple artists. Skaftfell Centre for Visual Art Best little EVERY STEP Kaffi Bjarmanes, Skagaströnd Ásgeirs Emilsson's Art and Life concert venue in Akureyri Playing with Lára Rúnars. Ongoing till July 10. Fri. 2. July Ljótu Hálfvitarnir Ragga Gröndal & The Fancy Toys ART Shedding light on the extraordinary Sat. 3. July Ljótu Hálfvitarnir 21:00 Græni Haturinn, Akureyri artist and opening a window into his Wed. 7. July Fancy Toys & Ragnheiður Gröndal unique mind. Part of the Reykjavík Arts Thu. 8. July Hjaltalin 8 ONGOING Festival 2010. Fri. 9. July Hjaltalin THU Skógar Museum, Hvolsvöllur Sat. 10. July Árstiðir 9:00 - 18:00 all June, July & August Hjaltalín Akureyri Museum Wed. 14. July K-Trio Open May 15th - Sept. 15th: 11 - 18 Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri Treasure Thu. 15. July Hera Playing with Lára Rúnars. Runs until September 15 Fri. 16. July Todmobile Other times by arrangement Ragga Gröndal & The Fancy Toys Twenty Photographers in Akureyri and Sat. 17. July Todmobile 21:00 Gamli Baukur, Húsavík Surroundings 1858-1965 Eyjafjordur in Tel: +354 483 1504 the early period. For further informations [email protected] | www.husid.com Árnesinga Folk Museum, Eyrar- on upcoming events and concerts go to: 9 www.facebook.com/graenihatturinn FRI bakki Eddie Walker 11:00 - 18:00 May 15 - September 15 21:30 Allinn, Siglufjöður Café Karólína, Akureyri British guitarist and singer will be play- Stúlka / Tussa ing. Runs until July 2 Hjaltalín 15:00 Hanna Hlíf Bjarnadóttir intro- Græni Hatturinn, Akureyri duces her new exhibition where she Playing with Lára Rúnars. has stitched words which identify with AKUREYRI women, in both positive and negative ways. Central Reykjavík FAXAFLÓI
FISKISLÓÐ
1 2 3 4 5 ANDAGARÐUR GR Maritime Museum MAPMAP The Old Harbour Old Depart for whale and puffin Places We Like A watching tours from the old Harbour harbour, a lively area, offering 1 Prikið ÁNANAUST an assortment of restaurants MÝR and activity centres Bankastræti 12 ARGATA
Prikið is one of those places that NÝL ENDUGATA Old shape-shifts. It’s a warm café lined with Harbour Area photographs of its senior frequenters on weekdays, a hung-overFRAMNESVEGUR hangout RÁNA VESTURGATA on weekend afternoons, and during B RGATA Future nights it’s filled to the brim with what GEIRSGATA Concert BÁRUG 5 Hall remains of Iceland’s hip hop scene. Go ATA Reykjavík there in daytime for the cheap burgers; ÖLDUGA Art Museum enter at night for some OTT hip-hopBRÆÐRABORGARSTÍGUR TA ÆGISGATA Main TRYGGVAGATA11 14 debauchery, old skool and the latest Tourist bangers alike. SKK Info Down
Taxi 2 Town GARÐASTRÆTI HAFNAR10 6 SKÚLAGATA SÆBRAUT 2 Havarí TÚNGATA AUSTURSTRÆTI STRÆTI D The 15 Culture Austurstræti 8 Austur National AÐALSTRÆTI völlur House9 Park Theatre Even before it opened, Havarí was KIRKJUSTRÆTI BANKASTRÆTI1 LINDARGATA everybody’s favourite new music and HVERFISGATA Skyline SÆBRAUT Icelandic design store.Vesturbæjar Headed by Svavar Pétur PÓSTH.STRÆTI
Swimming HOFSVALLAGATA SÓLVALLAG Parliament 17 “Financial and Berglind∆ Pool of Skakkamanage, the 4 ATA 7 LÆKJARGATA shop shills the musical goods of Kimi 16 18 8 KLAPPARSTÍGUR District” Records, Borgin Hljómplötur, gogoyoko 12Lauga3 HRINGBRAUT City vegur and Skakkapopp as well as posters, art, E Hall Taxi VATNSSTÍGUR BORGARTÚN LaugavegurÓL design products and clothing. CF SUÐURGATA Up ÞINGHOLTSSTRÆTING INGÓLFSSTRÆTIReykjavík’s main shopping and culture street, featuringSKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGURSK TJARNARGATA ÓLAVÖR Town HVERFISGATA The a wide range of bars, bistros, Tower cafes and restaurants. 3 VEGUR 13 Santa Maria BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTIBERGSTAÐARSTR L City A AUGAVEGUR
Laugavegur 22 Pond GRETTISGATA SKÚLAGATA LAUFÁS
On Laugavegur, Santa Maria offers ÞÓRSGATA Hlemmur NÓATÚN FRÍKIRKJUVEGUR FRAKKASTÍGUR National ÓÐINSGATA Bus a fairly extensiveWest menu of Mexican STÍGUR F Gallery Terminal dishes and drinks at a really reasonable of Iceland VITA Side NJÁLSGATA price – possibly some of the best in HÁTÚN Ê BARÓNSSTÍGUR SNORRABRAUT Taxi the city. The décor is colourful and Hallgríms BERGÞÓRUGATA Laugardals BIRKIMELUR Swimming welcoming, the portions are generous BALDURSGATA kirkja Pool and the service is fast and friendly. Church LAUGAVEGUR SÓLEYJARGATA Recommended. CF BRAUTARHOLT BRAGAGATA NJARÐARGATA The Einar Jónsson Museum Sundhöllin 4 Hemmi og Valdi Swimming SKIPHOLT G University Pool RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR SKIPHOLT Laugavegi 21 of Iceland BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTI Hljómskáli EIRÍKSGATA The “colonial store” Hemmi and Valdi Park BARÓNSSTÍGUR SUÐURGATA University HRINGBRAUT East is a cosy hangout that has advanced of Iceland Park NÓATÚN from being a toasty retreat, where one LAUFÁSVEGUR Side can score cheap beer and have a quiet chat, into being a chock-full concert HÁTEIGSVEGUR venue and an all-night party place. And SNORRABRAUT NARSBRAUT
GUN believe us, the atmosphere is brilliant. H Nordic House Miklatún SKK Culture Center Park FLÓKAGATA VATNSMÝRARVEGUR
GAMLA HRINGBRAUT Kjarvalsstaðir 5 Café d’Haiti National BSÍ RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR Museum Geirsgata Coach Terminal The first time I entered this exotic little NJARÐARGATA
joint, meaning to buy myself a take- HRINGBRAUT away espresso, I ended up with two I kilos of fresh and roasted coffee beans LANGAHLÍÐ BÓLSTAÐARHLÍÐ due to some language complications MIKLABRAUT KRINGLUMÝRARBRAUT and way too much politeness. Since Kringlan then I have enjoyed way-too-many Reykjavík Shopping Domestic Center wonderful cups of Haitian coffee, but Airport Ì they’re always as nice, so the two kilos Ë were definitely worth it. SKK
6 Habibi 7 Iðnó 8 Karamba 9 Grái Kötturinn Hafnarstræti 18 Vonarstræti 3 Laugavegur 22 Hverfisgata 16a This small restaurant offers up a If you want to treat yourself to a Downtown hotspot Karamba is Super relaxed and cozy diner/café concise menu of delicious Arabic scintillating feminist monologue then a colourful and eclectic bar on below street level. This place makes cuisine, from shawarma to kebabs and why not swing by Iðnó, where they’re Laugavegur with a comfortable the best hangover breakfast ever (the falafels. The staff is really friendly and showing Icelandic play Cellophane, atmosphere, typically great music and a truck!) and any-other-day breakfast as accommodating of requests to kick a raving comedy show that’s been chill crowd. This is a good place to relax well. It’s a nice and relaxing place to eat up the spiciness or tone it down if the conveniently translated into English for or to do some serious drinking or to and increase your caffeine intake and customer so desires. Habibi seriously y’all non-Icelandic speakers. The play relax. Plus, their decors are done strictly chill with friends or with some reading hits the spot after hours of partying (or centres around a sassy mom trying by Grapevine-friendly artists, such as material. CF any other time of day) so it’s convenient to do the impossible: Becoming a Lóa (who does our comics), Hugleikur that the place is allegedly open until successful career woman, maintaining Dagsson and Bobby Breiðholt (who’s 6 a.m. Friday and Saturday (although the perfect marriage, all whilst looking done a lot of nice illustrations for us); their advertised opening hours are like she just stepped onto the catwalk. they are truly a sight to behold. CF sometimes not adhered to). CF More info at www.reykjavikbyday.com AY The grand opening of Villa Reykjavík is coming close – 9 July 2010. 14 European galleries are setting up an international art district, each with its own space, and each preparing its own exhibition. The most important events as part of Villa Reykjavík are planned for the first week of the project. The idea of meeting, which is the leitmotif of the entire undertaking, will be present in the programme of performances, screenings, and concerts. Visit the exhibitions and join us during the opening week! Admission free!
VILLA REYKJAVIK
This summer in Reykjavík, when the sun almost does not set, 14 European galleries will establish an international art district.
Opening Week, 9-16 July 2010
To get lost in Reykjavík
Fake applause, embarrassment, apologies, no-show at his own show – in his performances Oskar Dawicki can very charmingly disenchant the public, at the same time seducing it and luring into a joint play with the conventions of art. This time, his plan it to get lost in Reykjavík. And not just to get lost himself, but also lose all the things he gets his hands on. If you have anything to lose – bring it to one of the meetings with the artist (see program).
Firma Portretowa Art Makes Us Drunk
Finally! The embarrassing relations between art and vodka shall be revealed!
The two elements will clash on screen as part of a project Art Makes Us Drunk. The set includes films by Gilbert and George, Dara Birnbaum, Piotr Zylinski or Firma Portretowa (Portrait Company), which smoothly reconcile the experience of getting drunk with that of aesthetics, and which tell about a peculiar type of transformation, a metaphor of the chemical nature of all our mental processes. They are a dream about the force of art, their immediate and dazing effect.
Reykjavík Art Museum – Hafnarhús, Tryggvagata 17 10 July, 15.00; 16 July, 15.00
Pierre Bismuth Rain from Belgium will evaporate in Reykjavík.
Pierre Bismuth’s project, prepared by Jan Mot gallery especially for Villa Reykjavík, has begun some time ago in Brussels, where the artist collects rainwater and sends it to Iceland to be reintroduced to the atmosphere. It will be possible to observe the process in detail in front of the old fish halls.
Geirsgata 11
Exhibitions, PErformancEs, scrEEnings, concErts VILLA REYKJAVIK
Kitty Travers, Rhubarb Ice-creams
When visiting Warsaw four years ago, Kitty Travers created an extraordinarily tasting ice-
photo courtesy Foksal Gallery Foundation, Warsaw -cream in the flavour of Prince Polo chocolate bar and the local Zywiec beer. In subsequent years Guma she became one of the best known (Mr Rubber) ice-cream chefs in London. When she visits new places, she likes to discover new flavours. Who is Guma? In collaboration Now, Kitty is going to spend with young people from the a week working in Reykjavík. Warsaw district of Praga, When asked about possible Polish artist Paweł Althamer flavours to be found in Iceland, has created a statue of the local she lists: Organic Milk, Cream bum, an anti-hero who was, and Yoghurt from dairy cattle however, the good spirit of the who are fed on wild grasses and photo courtesy IBID Projects, London neighbourhood, seen every day seaweed, caramelised Geyserbread in front of the local liquor store (Rye Bread baked for 20 hours in standing on wobbly legs. For geothermal steam vents), Rhubarb, William Hunt reason of his specific posture and Wild Cherries, Brown Sugar & the nickname, the statue was cast Surmjolk (soured milk), Glacier The opening week will end with a performance by William Hunt. This London based artist is known in rubber. The peculiar sculpture Water Ice Lollies, Sea Salt. The for his spectacular actions, in which he merges the element of art with elements of nature. One of his by Althamer, which served as results of her extraordinary ice- most amazing performances is Put Your Foot Down, where William sings in a car completely filled with model for Guma’s statue, will cream experiments will be served water. In The impotence of radicalism in the face of all these extreme positions, he sings and plays the guitar be on display at Foksal Gallery in various places, for instance on hanging upside down. The setting for his project in Reykjavík is the sea, there will also be the always Foundation. Wednesday, 14 July at House present music. of Ideas. seashore, 16 July, 22.00 Tryggvagata 18
Havarí live music project Villa Reykjavík is not only exhibitions, performances, film The Bust of screenings, and partying. It is also a project about unexpected neighbourhoods. A group of Icelandic musicians with a guest group of musicians from Poland have decided to give the an Accidental meeting an artistic form: a spontaneously formed houseband will improvise during the open daily sessions in Havarí, each day at 17.00, each time for around half an hour. The final, Hero experimental Tuesday mix, will be recorded and released in a limited edition. Louis-Auguste Cyparis, known . Austurstrcti 6 as Samson, was one of two people to have survived the eruption of Mt. Pelee on 8 May 1902, which wiped out the entire town of St. Pierre on Martinique and killed 20 thousand of its inhabitants.
He survived because a few days before the disaster he had been incarcerated in a small cell of the local prison. Soon he became a popular member of Barnum & Bailey Circus, where photo Adam Tarasiuk he was presented as the “Lone Survivor of St. Pierre.” When in residence in Martinique Paristetris in 2009, artist Rafał Bujnowski decided to revive the contemporary memory of Cyparis. The Paristetris is “a rough fragmented band that can be split into project will be completed with the unveiling parts, each of which (its members) is, at least approximately, of a monument – created on the basis of portrait a reduced-size copy of the whole band,” a property known photographs which have remained – in the as self-similarity. Natural objects that are similar to Paristetris premises of the St. Pierre museum, not far include clouds, mountain ranges, lightning bolts, coastlines, from the prison cell which saved Samson’s life. snow flakes, various vegetables (cauliflower and broccoli), The massive bust, cast in volcanic ash collected and animal coloration patterns. Though all these are worse on the beaches of St. Pierre before the trip to coz they’re finite. This phenomenal band will play a gig Martinique, is on display at the “Fate Away” closing the first day of Villa Reykjavík. exhibition at Raster gallery.
Bakkus / Venue, Tryggvagata 22, 9 July, 22.00 Vesturgata 10 - 10a photo courtesy Raster, Warsaw
www.villareykjavik.com VILLA REYKJAVIK
Gülsün Karamustafa, Bosphorus 1954, 2007 photo courtesy i8, Reykjavík Anna Hrund Másdóttir and Sigríður Torfadóttir Tulinius The Garden Project Tropical Elín Kling & Bang Iceland Hansdóttir Garden Party
Blood Music ”Tropical Iceland” is the title of Elín Hansdóttir is one of the Kling & Bang Gang is a new an exhibition prepared by Sylvia most intriguing representatives Make it Happen energetic collaboration between Kouvali, director of the Istanbul of young generation artists from Kling & Bang and the youngest Rodeo gallery. “This exhibition Iceland. Her works take many One of the special guests of Villa Reykjavík is the Stockholm-based generation of the Reykjavík art is about tourist expectations, forms, including architectural independent music label, Make it Happen, co-founded by Johanna Billing scene, adding new force to the failures and shut horizons” - says installations, photographic works, – a prominent video artist (her newest film is presented by Hollybush now well established gallery, and Sylvia - “My fantasy of Iceland has and sculptures. She creates self- Gardens gallery from London). Make it Happen will present two concerts: resulting in a genuine Saturday always been that of a tropical place; -contained worlds that seem to Blood Music and Cloud and Lightning. Blood Music has existed in many night fever - a garden party around no palm trees and sand dunes; just operate under their own set of shapes and forms; from a minimal one man band with a tiny keyboard and on top of the Kling & Bang icy forests and ethereal sounds rules, completely transforming to an 18-piece orchestra full of woodwind instruments and strings, but gallery. Sculptures by local artists coming from the blue lagoons; a benign space into one that defies Karl-Jonas Winqvists (one of Sweden’s most personal and unique voices) will be revealed in the atmospheric Björk and Sigur Rós. The island expectations and seems only to ingenious lyrics and stories always remain at the centre. Cloud and melting pot of the new art scene. diagonally opposite from where exist at a particular moment in Lightning is a duo consisting of Ylva Ceder and Patric Thorman. They Live music, BBQ-ing, massive I grew up on the other side of the time. Elín’s solo exhibition as part have backgrounds in both jazz, free improv and classical music, as well summer heat, social hanging-out continent has always been a ‘dream of Villa Reykjavík is presented as folk/americana. Make it Happen – in Reykjavík! and cold drinks - all in green... destination’ as for others is Greece, by gallery i8. Cyprus or the Canary Islands.” Blood Music – Bakkus / Venue, Tryggvagata 22 , 11 July, 22.00 Geirsgata 11 Tryggvagata 16 Cloud and Lightning – Kling & Bang Garden Party, Hverfisgata 42, 10 July, 19.00 Hverfisgata 42, 10 July, 19.00
Swineherd
Wilhelm Sasnal is known to be one of the most intriguing painters of the recent decade. The artist is equally fascinated by painting, as he is by music and film. The visionary “Swineherd” is the first full length feature made by Sasnal. Its plot, inspired by Andersen’s fairy tale under the same title, is set in a grotesque black and white scenery of a post- -war Polish farmstead. The work is an intriguing, dramatic mix of strange characters, symbolic props, and dynamic seductive images.
Háskólabíó, við Hagatorg, 13 July, 20.00 photo courtesy Foksal Gallery Foundation, Warsaw T 72 T 72 is a popular type of a Soviet tank manufactured since the 1970’s, which, unfortunately, has been tested in regular military operations on numerous occasions, beginning with the Soviet intervention in Afghanistan.
A T 72 will now remain parked for three weeks in an old fishery in the harbour of Reykjavík, being, most probably, the first ever tank in the history of Iceland – luckily, only in an inflated version. The author of the project, presented by Berlin’s Johann König Gallery, is German artist Michael Sailstorfer.
Geirsgata 11 Michael Sailstorfer, T 72 (sand), 2008, inflatable tank dummy, 4 air conveyer, Siemens control system, 220 Volt or 110 Volt, courtesy Johann König, Berlin, photo Alexis Zavialoff, ©VG Bild-Kunst, Bonn
Opening Week, 9-16 July 2010 VILLA REYKJAVIK
Calendar j 18.00 B i8 (Reykjavík) A Oskar Dawicki Galleries Elín Hansdóttir Rodeo (Istanbul) performance “Tropical Iceland” D Ziad Antar 9 FRI Janek Simon D IBID Projects (London) Vartan Avakian lecture Croy Nielsen (Berlin) “A Gesture You Can’t Banu Cennetoglu g 17.00 “Flotsam and Jetsam” Help but Make” Haris Epaminonda Havarí live music project Jacob Dahl Jürgensen William Hunt Emre Hüner l 19.30 – 21.00 Simon Dybbroe Møller Darri Lorenzen, 90 Minutes Gülsün Karamustafa Abcd 18.00 from Where You Are Now A Christodoulos Panayiotou C Johann König video loop Jan Mot (Brussels) Foksal Gallery Foundation Hollybush Gardens Pierre Bismuth I (Warsaw) Rodeo Tulips & Roses (Vilnius) Paweł Althamer Jan Mot l 20.00 a Jesse Ash i8 Wilhelm Sasnal, Swineherd Cezary Bodzianowski Johann König (Berlin) Liudvikas Buklys Foksal Gallery Foundation screening Piotr Janas Michael Sailstorfer Gintaras Didžiapetris Jocelyn Wolff Anna Molska Johannes Wohnseifer Martijn in’t Veld Croy Nielsen Wilhelm Sasnal IBID Projects 22.00 Juozas Laivys f Monika Sosnowska Raster Paula & Karol, Pascal Pinon J Rosalind Nashashibi Zero concert Kling & Bang (Reykjavík) C exhibition openings “Darkness carried in (again)” D Galerie Jocelyn Wolff (Paris) Arnfinnur Amazeen Zero (Milan) Guillaume Leblon “The Garden Project” Giorgio Andreotta Calò f 22.00 Prinz Gholam 14 WeD Anna Hrund Másdóttir Micol Assaël Paristetris, Sudden Weather Sigrídur- Torfadóttir Tulinius Anthony Burdin Change, Stafrænn Hákon n 15.00 A Alex Cecchetti concert Kling & Bang Gang Hollybush Gardens (London) Whirlpool D Jorge Peris “I am Lost Without Your screening Raster (Warsaw) Rhythm” “Fate Away” Opening Time Johanna Billing 10 SaT n 17.00 Michał Budny Prinz Gholam Rafał Bujnowski 10-16 July, daily, 12.00-18.00 15.00 e performance K Oskar Dawicki Art Makes Us Drunk Hunt Kastner (Prague) Zbigniew Rogalski 17-31 July, screening Oskar Dawicki “The Lost Highway” Janek Simon Tuesday – Saturday, 13.00-17.00 performance Alena Kotzmannová Kling & Bang: Tomáš Vanek g 17.00 Paula & Karol Thursday – Sunday, 14.00-18.00 Havarí live music project concert
Kitty Travers n jKI 18.00 ice cream Kling & Bang Hunt Kastner f 22.00 Tulips & Roses Mr Silla, Swords of Chaos, exhibition openings dj Wiktor Skok A concert J 19.00 B Kling & Bang Garden Party C d Quadruplos e Cloud and Lightning 15 THu concert f e 15.00 Mancuška / Selg / Smetana g h f 22.00 screening afterparty i a 17.00 Kling & Bang Gang Domains of Joyful j k 11 SuN Degradation performance g 14.00 Havarí live music project f 20.00 e 15.00 Block party Grzegorz Królikiewicz Through and Through screening 16 FRI m a 17.00 e 15.00 Oskar Dawicki Art Makes Us Drunk performance screening l
F 22.00 m 22.00 Blood Music, antykrystyna William Hunt A Fishery, Geirsgata 11 h CIa, Hafnarstræti 16 concert performance b i8, Tryggvagata 16 i Næsti Bar, Ingólfsstræti 1a c Tryggvagata 18 j Kling & Bang, Hverfisgata 42 d Vesturgata 10 - 10a k Kaffistofa, Hverfisgata 42 e Reykjavík art Museum Hafnarhús, l Háskólabíó Cinema, Hagatorg 13 Tue Tryggvagata 17 m Seashore f Bakkus / Venue, Tryggvagata 22 n Hugmyndahús / House of Ideas, e 15.00 g Havarí, austurstræti 6 Grandagarður 2 Along the Line screening Project organized by Raster – www.raster.art.pl g 17.00 Havarí live music project Supported by a grant from Iceland, Liechtenstein and Norway through the EEA Financial Mechanism and the Norwegian Financial Mechanism. Houseband final concert
www.villareykjavik.com Central Reykjavík FAXAFLÓI
FISKISLÓÐ
6 7 8 9 10 13 Babalú GRANDAGARÐUR For a map of outside downtown Skólavörðustíg 22 Maritime Museum Reykjavík check out links on Located on the second-floor of a quirky The www.grapevine.is or the Icelandic little building on Skólavörðustígur, Babalú is an inviting, quaint and cosy Old Harbour Old phonebook website www.ja.is Depart for whale and puffin Harbour café serving up a selection of tea, coffee watching tours from the old and hot chocolate along with delicious harbour, a lively area, offering Ask for a Tax Free baked goods and light meals. Food and ÁNANAUST an assortment of restaurants form & save up to 15% MÝRARGATA and activity centres drink aside, Babalú boasts colourfully decorated and super-comfortable surroundings and a genuinely friendly NÝLENDUGATA Old Harbour and likeable staff. CF Area
FRAMNESVEGUR RÁNARGATA VESTURGATA Future 14 Kolaportið GEIRSGATA Concert BÁRUGATA Hall Tryggvagata 19 Reykjavík ÖLDUGATA Art Reykjavík’s massive indoor flea market Museum BRÆÐRABORGARSTÍGUR is a wonderful place to get lost for a ÆGISGATA Main TRYGGVAGATA Tourist few hours, rummaging through stall Info Down upon stall of potential treasures. There
Taxi Town are heaps of used clothing, knitwear GARÐASTRÆTI HAFNAR SKÚLAGATA SÆBRAUT and other yard-sale type goods from TÚNGATA AUSTURSTRÆTI STRÆTI The decades of yore, and a large food Culture Austur National section with fish, meats and baked AÐALSTRÆTI völlur House Park Theatre goods. Check out the vintage post KIRKJUSTRÆTI BANKASTRÆTI LINDARGATA cards and prints at the table near the HVERFISGATA Skyline SÆBRAUT Icelandic army surplus. CF Vesturbæjar PÓSTH.STRÆTI
Swimming HOFSVALLAGATA SÓLVALLAGATA Parliament “Financial ∆ Pool LÆKJARGATA KLAPPARSTÍGUR District” Lauga 15 Hressó HRINGBRAUT City vegur Hall Taxi VATNSSTÍGUR BORGARTÚN Austurstræti 20 LaugavegurÓL SUÐURGATA Up ÞINGHOLTSSTRÆTING INGÓLFSSTRÆTIReykjavík’s main shopping You know, Hressó is basically the only SKÓLAVÖRÐUSTÍGURSK and culture street, featuring HVERFISGATA The TJARNARGATA ÓLAVÖR Town place I go for coffee. Why? Their coffee a wide range of bars, bistros, Tower cafes and restaurants. is decent to excellent, but their forte VEGUR BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTIBERGSTAÐARSTR LAU City A GAVEGUR is surely their wonderful patio, where Pond GRETTISGATA SKÚLAGATA you can enjoy the spring breeze in the LAUFÁS sun, wrap yourself in a blanket beneath ÞÓRSGATA Hlemmur NÓATÚN FRÍKIRKJUVEGUR FRAKKASTÍGUR National ÓÐINSGATA Bus an electric heater in January and at West Gallery Terminal all times: smoke. They boast of quite of Iceland VITASTÍGUR Side NJ HÁTÚN the prolific menu, and they've finally ÁLSGATA Ê BARÓNSSTÍGUR SNORRABRAUT Taxi removed Nickelback from their playlist. Hallgríms BERGÞÓRUG Laugardals BIRKIMELUR Swimming Thank you, Hressó! SKK BALDURSGATA kirkja Pool Church ATA LAUGAVEGUR SÓLEYJARGATA BRAUTARHOLT
BRAGAGATA 16 NJARÐARGATA The Einar Grænn Kostur Jónsson Museum Sundhöllin Skólavörðustíg 8b Swimming SKIPHOLT University Pool RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR SKIPHOLT of Iceland Serving healthy organic vegan and Hljómskáli BERGSTAÐARSTRÆTI vegetarian food for well over a decade, EIRÍKSGATA Park BARÓNSSTÍGUR Grænn Kostur is the perfect downtown SUÐURGATA University HRINGBRAUT East of Iceland NÓATÚN choice for enjoying light, wholesome Park LAUFÁSVEGUR Side and inexpensive meals. Try any of their courses of the day, or go for the ever- HÁTEIGSVEGUR pleasing spinach lasagne. SNORRABRAUT NARSBRAUT
GUN Nordic House Miklatún Culture Center Park FLÓKAGATA VATNSMÝRARVEGUR 17 Kisan Laugavegur 7 GAMLA HRINGBRAUT Kjarvalsstaðir National BSÍ RAUÐARÁRSTÍGUR Museum This store is incredibly cool. It’s stocked Coach Terminal with really unique and quirky clothes, NJARÐARGATA outerwear, accessories and handbags,
ARBRAUT HRINGBRAUT plus they have an adorable section of kids clothes, kitschy vintage toys and books and even interior design items. LANGAHLÍÐ BÓLSTAÐARHLÍÐ MIKLABRAUT Wicked place; definitely worth a visit. CF KRINGLUMÝR Kringlan Reykjavík Shopping Laugavegur 56 Domestic Center Airport Ì 101 Reykjavík Ë www.nikitaclothing.com
10 Austur 11 Bakkus 12 Á Næstu Grösum 18 Kaffibarinn Austurstræti 7 Tryggvagata 22 – Naustarmegin Laugavegur 20b Bergstaðastræti 1 Sleek and shiny, this new restaurant and A new and welcome addition to Á Næstu Grösum is an all vegetarian Weekends are somewhat overrated bar is a straight-up boutique hot spot Reykajvík’s bar scene, Bakkus serves restaurant right in the city centre that at Kaffibarinn. Oh, of course they’re for stylish kids and trendy professionals up reasonably priced beer, a really features a friendly atmosphere and brilliant if you’re completely pissed, alike. Appropriate for formal business impressive selection of international fair prices. There is always at least one the DJ is fresh and the crowd is meetings but casual enough for the vodkas and an atmosphere unlike vegan soup on offer and the daily full-blooded. Still, the weekdays are roll-out-bed-at-5pm crowd, they serve any other in town. An eclectic mix of special portions are big and always evenbetter. It doesn’t matter when up ample, satisfying, modern dishes at patrons, regular live music and movie satisfying. They even serve organic you pop in, you’re always treated like reasonable prices. This is also one of the nights keep this place interesting wine, if that’s your bag. a pal rather than a customer, and you rare places to get a full breakfast all day and always inviting. Expect dancing should always expect get caught in long. RL on tables and to-the-death foosball some shenanigans, whether it’s a crazy battles. CF Monday bender or a whacky Tuesday... well... bender. SKK
Laugavegi 7 101 Reykjavík ART GALLERIES & MUSEUMS IN JULY
Halldórsdóttir. Cocktail pleasures and The Culture House Visual stimulation Medieval Manuscripts Permanent Exhibition: Icelanders How to use the listings: Venues are listed February 3 - ongoing DAY TOUR alphabetically by day. For complete listings Ongoing until September. and detailed information on venues visit Exhibit featuring a selection of pho- www.grapevine.is tographs from the book "Icelanders" by Unnur Jökulsdóttir and Sigurgeir Sigurjónsson. ADVENTURES ICELAND :: FILM OPENING Ongoing exhibition. Traces the evolution of Icelandic AND OTHER EXCITING ACTIVITIES The Mob Against The Prosecution filmmaking, exploring myths versus Living Art Museum modernity. July 3, 17:00 The Nation and Nature Check our Special Offers Event in support of the Reykjavík Nine. Thirty-minute film about the relationship Olgeir Andresson & Johann Smari between humans and nature. Film plays Icelandic Travel Market City Hall continuously during open hours. July 3 - July 18 Downtown Reykjavík Photography exhibit from two winners of Reality Check, an outdoor exhibition the Photographer of the Year award. curated by Æsa Sigurjónsdóttir. Painting Site The Library Room Gallery Ágúst Ongoing exhibition 16:00 July 3 - July 24 National Archives of Iceland - 90 years Exhibit by Ingunn Fjola Ingðorsdottir. in the museum building. Commemorat- Eau De Parfum ing the 100th anniversary of the Culture Spark, Klapparstígur 33 House. FREE July 8 - July 31 The Dwarf Gallery BOOKING SERVICE An exhibit from Andrea Maack, with Ongoing exhibition. special focus on projects that involve An independent art gallery with ongoing collaboration between designers and exhibitions. It´s located in an old base- other professions. ment. Do you really need to know any Fantastic Friday more than that? Downtown Reykjavík The Einar Jónsson Museum July 9 ,12:00 - 14:00 Permanent exhibition: All over downtown many art groups The work of sculptor Einar Jónsson. will be showcasing their work, which Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum inlcudes dance performances, singing, Ongoing exhibition. art, and more. Gljúfrasteinn was the home and work- City Hall place of Halldór Laxness (winner of the July 15, 20:00 Nobel Prize for Literature in 1955). The last showing from Reykjavík's sum- Havarí mer art groups. See the best of their Runs until August 31. Spör ehf. summer creations. Exhibiting work from The Icelandic Love Elín Hansdóttir Corporation, Sigga Björg, Hugleik Dags- i8 son, Lindu Loeskow and Sara Riel. INFORMATION AND BOOKING CENTER July 9 - August 21 Iðnó Old News Cellophane Bankastræti 2 - Downtown Living Art Museum English comedy show, every Thursday Tel: +354 522 4979 July 10, 17:00 and Sunday at 20:00. Shows from July 4 Not-for-profit newspaper exhibits a - July 22 are just 2900 ISK after that 3400 [email protected] - www.itm.is selection of articles and images. ISK. Papercut Art Exhibition Mokka Nordic House Ólan July 10 - August 15 Runs until July 22. Exhibition by papercut artist Karen Bit Painting exhibition by Einar Baldvin. Vejle. National Gallery of Iceland The Expression Of Colour Cindy Sherman - Untitled Film Stills ASÍ Art Museum Runs until September 5. July 10 - August 29 American photographer Sherman plays Exhibition featuring 20th Century Icelan- with female film fantasies in self-por- dic artists. traits. Edvard Munch Runs until September 5. Prints in the collection of the National ONGOING Gallery. Strides Arbæjarsafn / Reykjavík City Mu- Runs until December 31, 2012. seum A selection of the Gallery's collection Summer Program from the 20th and 21st century. June 1 to August 31 The National Museum Outdoor heritage museum. Permanent exhibitions: Art Gallery Fold The Making of a Nation From The Bowels Of The Earth Heritage and History in Iceland is Photography exhibition of the volcanic intended to provide insight into the eruptions in Iceland this year, which history of the Icelandic nation from the brought photographers from all over the Settlement to the present day. world. Ongoing all summer. Ása Wright - From Iceland to Trini- ASÍ Art Museum dad On With The Margarine! Collection of objects that belonged to June 12 - ongoing the adventuress Ása Guðmundsdóttir. Exhibit featuring slogans and installa- Embroidery of Life tions by Hlynur Hallsson and Jóna Hlíf Embroidery by Guðrún Guðmundsdóttir,
ICELANDIC FRESH SUSHI Open Every Day from 11.00-22.00
Situated by the Reykjavik Harbor ART NEW GALLERIES & MUSEUMS IN JULY
inspired by old manuscripts collection of Pétur Arason and Ragna The Nordic House Róbertsdóttir. Land Of Experiments Kjarval - Key Works C
Ongoing until September 30 Runs until August 29. M Interactive exhibit based on scientific Retrospective on Iceland's most beloved contraptions from Tom Tits Experimen- painter. Y tarium in Sweden. Play! Reykjavík Art Museum Nordic Knit Festival Ásmundarsafn CM
Runs until July 4 Sleep Light MY Ráðhús Reykjavíkur Runs until April 17, 2011. Dulin Himintungl Multimedia installation by Ráðhildur CY Kim Linnet exhibits her 360° panorama Ingadóttir. photos of Iceland. Thoughts In Forms CMY
Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 Runs until April 17, 2011. K The Settlement Exhibition The workshop of sculptor Ásmundur Permanent exhibition: Sveinsson, recreated. Reykjavík Art Museum “I choose blossoming women …” Hafnarhús Runs until April 17, 2011 Erró - Portrett - Dolls Woman as Symbol in the Art of Ásmun- Runs until August 29. dur Sveinsson. Collection of Erró's paintings and col- Reykjavik Maritime Museum lages of pre-war era dolls. The Coast Guard vessel Óðinn Vanitas Permanent exhibition Runs until August 29. The Óðinn took part in all three Cod Still-life in contemporary Icelandic art. Wars and is open for exhibition. Curator's talk with Hafþór Yngvason on Reykjavík Restaurant June 6 at 15:00. Let´s Talk Local In the Collection of Imperfection 18:00 Comedy show about Reykjavík, Runs til August 29. 2200 ISK/1100 ISK for kids. Pieces from city archives and other Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum collections, gathered by Unnar Örn J. Who is who? Auðarson. Explores the nature of muse- Ongoing ums and archiving. A Moment with Sigurjón Ólafsson Nudes - Gary Schneider Ongoing Runs until August 29. Reykjavik Museum of Photography South African born photographer pres- Interlude No. 6 ents 30 life-size portraits of nude men June 4 - July 27 and women. An exhibition featuring traditional Reykjavík Art Museum Korean group dancing by Yunjoo Kwak. Kjarvalsstaðir Thomsen & Thomsen Photo & Graph family workshop Runs until August 29 Runs until August 22. An exhibition of portrait photographs An ongoing workshop on what's behind and views from Reykjavík, from two dif- a photo. ferent times and two photographers. Alternative Eye 14 May to 22 August. Selected photographic works from the Art | Venue finder
101 Gallery Gallery Fold The National Hverfisgata 18A | E3 Rauðarástígur 14-16 | G7 Museum Thu–Sat 14–17 and by appointment Mon–Fri 10–18 / Sat 11–16 / Sun Suðurgata 41 | G1 www.101hotel. 14–16 Open daily 10–17 is/101hotel/101gallery/ www.myndlist.is natmus.is Artótek Gallery Kling & Bang The Nordic House Tryggvagata 15 | D2 Hverfisgata 42 | E5 Sturlugata 5 | H1 Listasafn Reykjavíkur Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu 10–19, Fri Thurs–Sun from 14–18 Tue–Sun 12–17 11–19, Sat and Sun 13–17 this.is/klingogbang/ www.nordice.is/ Reykjavik Art Museum www.sim.is/Index/Islenska/Artotek Havarí Reykjavík 871+/-2 ASÍ Art Museum Austurstræti 6 | E3 Aðalstræti 17 | D2 Freyugata 41 | G4 Hitt Húsið Open daily 10–17 Tue–Sun 13–17 – Gallery Tukt Reykjavík Art Gallery Árbæjarsafn Pósthússtræti 3-5 | E3 Skúlagata 28 | F6 Kistuhylur 4 www.hitthusid.is Tuesday through Sunday 14–18 The Culture House i8 Gallery Reykjavík Art Museum Hverfisgata 15 | E4 Tryggvagata 16 | D2 Open daily 10–16 Open daily 11–17 Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat 13–17 and by www.listasafnreykjavikur.is www.thjodmenning.is appointment. www.i8.is Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Key works Dwarf Gallery Living Art Museum Museum Sigtún Hafnarhús Grundarstígur 21 | H6 Skúlagata 28 | F6 Opening Hours: Fri and Sat 18–20 Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 / Thu 13–22. Tryggvagata 17 | D2 www.this.is/birta/dwarfgallery/ www.nylo.is Kjarvalsstaðir Flókagata | I7 dwarfgallery1.html Lost Horse Gallery Reykjavík City Theatre The Einar Jónsson Vitastigur 9a | E3 Alternative Eye Listabraut 3 Eiriksgata | G4 Weekends from 13–19 and by Nudes Tue–Sun 14–17 appointment on weekdays. Reykjavík Maritime Museum www.skulptur.is Hafnarborg Grandagarður 8 | C3 Gallery 100° Strandgötu 34, Reykjavík Museum of Pho- Bæjarháls 1 Hafnarfjörður tography www.or.is/Forsida/Gallery100/ Tryggvagata 16 | D2 Open weekdays from 08:30–16:00 The National Gallery of Iceland Weekdays 12–19 / Sat–Sun 13–17 - Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | F3 www.ljosmyndasafnreykjavikur.is Gallery Auga fyrir Auga Tue–Sun 11–17 Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum Hverfisgata 35 | E4 www.listasafn.is Gallery Ágúst Laugarnestangi 70 Baldursgata 12 | F4 Wed–Sat 12–17 www.galleriagust.is Portraits
I choose women In the Collection who thrive . . . of Imperfection Reykjavik Art Museum
Hafnarhús 15 May – 29 Aug Kjarvalsstaðir Ásmundarsafn Nudes – Gary Schneider Geysir Fact #2 28 May 2009 – 12 Sep 2010 14 May – 31 Dec 1 May 2010 – 17 Apr 2011 Erró – Portraits 20 May – 29 Aug Kjarval – Key works “I choose blossoming 20 May - 29 Aug In the Collection of women . . .” – Woman Imperfection – Unnar Örn 14 May – 22 Aug Vanitas – Still-life in Con- Alternative Eye – Selected as Symbol in the Art J. Auðarson temporary Icelandic Art photographic works of Ásmundur Sveinsson Cheap Cars 28 May - 12 Sep from the collection of 20 May 2010 - 17 Apr 2011 Pétur Arason and Ragna Erró – Portraits Sleep Light – Róbertsdóttir Dolls An installation by 14 may - 22 Aug Ráðhildur Ingadóttir Photo&graph – An educational workshop for the family
Hafnarhús Kjarvalsstaðir Ásmundarsafn Free admission Tryggvagata 17 Flókagötu Sigtún Open daily Open daily Open daily www.geysir.is 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. 10 a.m. – 4 p.m. Thursdays 10 a.m. – 10 p.m.
www.artmuseum.is [email protected] T +354 590 1200 F +354 590 1201 FD For your mind, body and soul
REVIEWS Healthy Eats and Raw Treats
After weeks of yummy, slurpy noodles; cheesy, greasy pizza; meaty, bready burgers; luxurious high-end treats and lowest of the low-end eats, the Grapevine needed some culinary TLC—some healthy bites to revitalise the body and keep us in good condition for enjoying the way too short summer months. Nothing says ‘health’, ‘vitality’ and ‘TLC’ quite like a yoga studio or a detoxifying retreat, so, presumably the food offerings associated with these feel-good havens should follow suit. Love it Raw
MadonnaRistorante Italiano
6 course Icelandic seafood soup, seafood Seafood Lunch Buffet pizza and a variety of fish dishes. Only 2.690 kr Lunch Buffet 11:30 - 14.30 It’s fitting that the restaurant sharing a fan of pine nut, which in this case took building with the Rope Yoga studio in on a smoky flavour that reminded me Gló Laugardalur is called Gló—it seems to somewhat of bacon, though I’m certain Engjateigur 19 Madonna Rauðarárstíg 27 445-9500 www.madonna.is capture the very feeling of completing an there was no such thing in the mix; but What we think: Healthy, intense session of stretches and poses, the two together in this arrangement tasty and inventive with newly loosened muscles and a sense didn’t do it for me. The raw beetroot was of accomplishment. Indeed, many of nice and the pine nut purée was really Flavour: Sweet, nutty, natural the patrons of Gló on the day of my visit nice, but the stiff and crispy texture of the Ambiance: Bright and airy “They put on such a appeared have just left the studio looking beets resulted in the filling just oozing beautiful meal for us. for something rich in vitamins and anti- entirely out the sides of the ‘sandwich’ Service: Friendly and smiling oxidants and natural ingredients to refuel with one prod of a fork. Genius concept, We had the most amazing with. I just went there to eat. but tricky execution. Gló is an airy and casual space My date’s sweet and sour chicken freshest fish I’ve ever had just through the doors of Engjateigur was a smash hit. Though it’s a loaded 19, flooded with the light streaming word, my date went so far as to say her in my life. It was all so through the atrium windows. On a chicken was “perfect,” both in texture and with a raw coconut cupcake and a (not perfectly cooked too... large chalkboard to the right of the flavour—bonus points for coriander in raw) slice of chocolate cake. The chocolate food counter the specials of the day are the glaze. cake (600 ISK), served with whipped beautiful!” listed—I chose the ravioli with pine nuts The assortment of salads that cream and topped with pomegranate and salad (1490 ISK); my date chose the accompanied both our mains was an seeds, was rich and dense like a brownie. Jamie Oliver’s Diary sweet and sour chicken with salad (1490 eye-opener for me. I hate—and I mean The raw coconut treat (500 ISK), a ISK). absolutely despise—carrots, but Gló gave mixture of shredded coconut, coconut Upon making my order I was told that me a generous helping of some shredded oil, agave syrup and almonds, blew our the ravioli I was requesting was on Gló’s ones mixed with coconut and almond collective minds. So sweet and coconutty raw menu and wasn’t really ravioli in the and it may very well be my new favourite and… just go try it! traditional sense at all. No, it wasn’t ravioli thing. Sweet and nutty and delicious! The at all, though it was a creative take on the other cold salads—pasta with sun-dried typically heavy pasta dish. Gló’s ravioli tomato and pomegranate seeds, leafy was a purée of pine nut sandwiched greens, dried fruits—were also very AUSTURSTRÆTI 9. Tel: 561 8555 between two raw slices of beetroot. It was distinctly tasty. interesting. I am a big fan of beetroot— Drawn to the concept of a raw dessert, Ctharinea Fulton JULIA STAPLES so sweet and earthy—and I’m a big my date and I finished our healthy meals
Food & Drink | Venue finder 3 Frakkar Balthazar Geysir Bar/Bistro Icelandic Fish & Chips Mokka Sjávarkjallarinn Baldursgata 14 | G4 Hafnarstræti 1-3 | D2 Aðalstræti 2 | D2 Tryggvagata 8 | B2 Skólavörðustígur 3A Aðalstræti 2 | D2 Aktu Taktu Bæjarins Beztu Garðurinn Indian Mango | E4 Sólon Skúlugata 15 | E6 Tryggvagata | D3 Klappastigur 37 | F4 Frakkastígur 12 | F5 Nonnabiti Bankastræti 7a | E3 Alibaba Brons Glætan book café Jómfrúin Hafnarstræti 9 | D3 Sushibarinn Veltusund 3b | D2 Pósthússtræti 9 | E3 Laugavegur 19 | F5 Lækjargata 4 | E3 O Sushi Laugavegur 2 | E4 American Style Café Cultura Grái Kötturinn Kaffi Hljómalind Lækjargata 2A | E3 Sushismiðjan Tryggvagata 26 | D2 Hverfisgata 18 | E4 Hverfisgata 16A | E4 Laugavegur 21 | E4 Pisa Geirsgötu 3 | B2 Argentína Steak- Café d'Haiti Grillhúsið Kaffifélagið Lækjargötu 6b | E3 Svarta Kaffi house Tryggvagata 12 | D2 Tryggvagata 20 | D2 Skólavörðustígur 10 Pizza King Laugavegur 54 | F5 Barónstígur | F6 Café Loki Habibi | F5 Hafnarstræti 18 | D3 Sægreifinn Austurlanda- Lokastígur 28 | G4 Hafnarstræti 20 | E3 Kaffitár Pizza Pronto Verbúð 8, Geirsgata hraðlestin Café Paris Hamborgarabúlla Tó- Bankastræti 8 | E4 Vallarstræti 4 | E2 | B2 Hverfisgata 64A | F5 Austurstræti 14 | E3 masar (“Bullan”) Kaffivagninn Pizzaverksmiðjan Tapas Á Næstu Grösum Café Roma Geirsgata 1 | B2 Grandagarður 10 | A1 Lækjargötu 8 | E3 Vesturgata 3B | D2 Laugavegur 20B | E4 Rauðarárstígur 8 | G7 Hlölla Bátar Kofi Tómasar Frænda Prikið Thorvaldsen B5 Deli Ingólfstorg | D2 Laugavegur 2 | E4 Bankastræti 12 | E3 Austurstræti 8 | D2 Bankastræti 5 | E3 Bankastræti 14 | E5 Hornið Kornið Ráðhúskaffi | E2 Tíu Dropar Bakkus Domo Hafnarstræti 15 | D3 Lækjargata 4 | E3 Tjarnargata 11 Laugavegur 27 | E5 Tryggvagata 22 | D2 Þingholtsstræti 5 | E3 Hótel Holt Krua Thai Santa Maria Tívolí Ban Thai Einar Ben Bergstaðarstræti 37 Tryggvagata 14 | D2 Laugavegur 22A, | F5 Laugavegur 3 | E4 Laugavegur 130 | G7 | G3 Veltusundi | E2 La Primavera Serrano Vegamót Basil & Lime Eldsmiðjan Humarhúsið Austurstræti 9 | D2 Hringbraut 12 | H3 Vegamótastígur 4 | E4 Klapparstíg 38 | E4 Amtmanstígur 1 | E3 Bragagata 38A | G4 Lystin Shalimar Við Tjörnina Babalú Fiskmarkaðurinn Hressó Laugavegur 73 | F6 Austurstræti 4 | D2 Templarasund 3 | E2 Skólavörðustígur 22A Aðalstræti 12 | D2 Austurstræti 20 | E4 Silfur Vitabar | G5 Pósthússtræti 11 | E3 Bergþórugata 21 | G5 EAT and DRINK: 3ll x Ma Food Court Lunch Time Retreat 1 shiiSuZu (KRINGLAN) So, food court sushi is rarely/never as good as the stuff in the fancier sushi eateries, but kudos of the good people of SuZushii for recognizing the need for a quick and simple sushi place for the mall-going crowd. Kudos, also, for making the sushi to order, rather than offering plastic trays of pre-made maki that have been sitting around for godknowshowlong. Kringlan
2 rranoSe (SMÁRALIND) OK, so Serrano is a chain. I know. But the Serrano at Smáralind is far superior, in my humble opinion, to that at Kringlan. The same burrito tasted wildly different at Kringlan than it did at Smáralind—and by different I mean worse. Hagasmára 1, Kópavogur
3 ergíaEn (Smáralind) Men, are you tired of walking around the penis mall with your women, while they fawn over countless pair of shoes and head off to yet another change room with more clothes From the makers of the NLFÍ Krúska than you’re likely to buy in a lifetime? Energía Rehabilitation and Health Clinic in is a nice place to retire to, re-energise with an Hveragerði to the health-loving folk Suðurlandsbraut 12 espresso and then venture back out to hmm and huhhh over the selection of rompers and of Reykjavík, Krúska—the newest What we think: Good and leggings leaving your lady perplexed. They health joint on the market—is sure to good for you! have nice salads, too. be a contender. Firstly, for those who Hagasmári 1, Kópavogur Flavour: Flavour: Delicious! don’t know what Krúska means, it’s 3 x things in the a blend of ground wheat that was the Ambiance: Bright and summery Vietnam Market on staple food item of Iceland’s pioneering vegeta rians, providing nutrients when Service: So sweet and friendly! Suðurlandsbraut the only produce on the market was 1 oticEx Juices onion and potatoes. Coconut Juice loaded with pulp and other Krúska, the restaurant at exotic fruit juices that you can’t find walking Suðurlandsbraut 12, has a lot more to the aisles of Bónus are plentiful at the Vietnam Market. So many sweet varieties to offer than ground wheat… though it I had the recipe. Rumour has it that choose from—try them all! does sell bags of the stuff in one corner Krúska may be offering up some of the store that doubles as a health- healthy cooking lessons in the fall. If 2 rryCu food grocer. And it’s not just vegetarian this turns out to be true, I’m there! Curry pastes, curry powders, curry delight! fare this place is selling, either; on the My date’s fish balls were awesome. Amp up your home cooking with some new day of my visit I was presented with We had a lengthy discussion while she and wonderful flavours from the market! a selection of salads, turkey wraps, ate them about how we never make 3 odlesNo chicken salads, and fish balls in fish balls in our own homes, though In these trying economic times, you need addition to the vegetable quiche (1390 we’re both quite big fans of the dish. food that will be cheap and filling—hello ISK) that I settled on. My lunch date If I could make fish balls as moist and noodles! With Phở being the iconic dish chose the fish balls (1490 ISK). delicate as Krúska I’d be making them of Vietnam, it’s no wonder the market in It’s a good thing the food we every night, I think. These balls were Reykjavík is the place to go for all your noodle shopping… go for rice too, they’re got nice! My date’s fish balls were sided ordered is healthy, because the serving enough of that to sink a ship, or, at the very sizes were massive. My slice of quiche, by the same green salad that I enjoyed least, fill one with rice. full of potatoes, carrots, greens and and a generous helping of couscous, egg and topped with a crisp sesame mixed with dried fruits, both of which 3bal x Ba ú (Skólavörðustígur 22 A) seed crust, covered half my plate and she enjoyed immensely. the other half was heaped high with Though the servings were plentiful 1 BrEAKFAST Panini fresh green salad, drizzled with a light, and our stomachs were full, my date Have you had the breakfast panini at Babalú Eastern tasting dressing. The quiche and I still ventured on to share a slice yet? It’s stuffed with egg and bacon and itself was quite tasty. I’m not sure how of chocolate cake for dessert (510 ISK). cheese and love and you should try it the moment you get the hankering for a breakfast the chefs managed to make a quiche The thin, unleavened cake was über panini. I get such a hankering daily. taste light, but they succeeded. Along moist and rich and was joined on the with the surprisingly and pleasantly plate by a dollop of whipped cream and a 2 kesCa & Pies light and airy texture of the quiche medley of stewed berries. A sweet (and Babalú makes some really awesome cakes was a disappointingly light amount still healthy, as far as I’m concerned) and pies. Their apple pie is to die for and their of spice. The dish was flavoured with end to a satisfying meal. cheesecake is just begging you to indulge a little. Tasty! curry, but I would have appreciated more saturation of the flavour 3 CaFFEINATED Beverages throughout to up the ante of the meal. Hot bevies loaded with caffeine are good, but The salad accompanying the quiche when your café’s staff presents you with a was fresh and crisp and I would put cappuccino topped with a chocolate-powder smiley face, it’s one hell of a pick-me-up… that dressing on everything I eat if even before putting the cup up to your lips. TELL US YOUR STORY AND YOU COULD WIN A FLIGHT BACK TO ICELAND
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Live Pub was just the right place for the start off one’s night. They’ve got a couch one Facebook-er remarked, that Bakkus into some kind of sportsbar haven, task, as “it is a fine place to black out in, and a foosball table; they’ve got some is indeed “the bar Reykjavík was waiting as there are currently at least three no sharp corners to fall on and few hard moderately priced drinks, they’ve got for,” and we can attest to have had some such bars operating on the short strip. THE men to offend.” One patron remarked “I room for conversation and, as one patron pretty awesome times there since they And all of them are fairly excellent for BEST OF just always feel like getting totally wasted remarked, “they always have some crazy opened last year. Thank god for you, sportswatching and beer drinking. We when I enter tha place,” while another music playing that I don’t know.” The your DJs, your cheap-ish drinks, your had a lot of trouble deciding between REYKJAVÍK lauded their “lack of drinking amateurs” atmosphere is also really lovely. Zubrowka and your spirit, Bakkus! Bjarni Fel (“great service, many screens”), NIGHTLIFE along with their fairly priced drinks. (New category (2009: Karamba) English Pub (“nice, different atmosphere”) 2010 Runners-up: Kaffi Grand “the drinks are and Hvíta perlan (“they’ve yet to prove so cheap, you won’t care about anything themselves sufficiently, but they do have else.”) Best cheap bar Best club: a 3D screen”), but ultimately decided to (2009: Grand Rokk) Kaffi Zimsen NASA go with Hvíta perlan, as they offer you Pretty much everyone we talked to on When NASA is good, it’s really goddamn the opportunity to watch sports in 3D. Best mainstreamer bar: this one agreed that Kaffi Zimsen’s beer good. The spacious venue has it all— Which totally amplifies the fun, even for Austur prices are unbeatable now. It may not some bars, a huge dance floor, a nice folks that aren’t into watching sports. 3D This one is a new category for us, but the have the most character, or a consistent soundsystem and a coat check. Of course is so cool. sleek new joint on Austurstræti took the atmosphere, but one can always count on the atmosphere depends a lot on who’s (2009: Bjarni Fel) cake almost instantly, especially due to getting a rather cheap brew, what with playing (or spinning) on a given night, some heavy popularity in the mail-ins. all the crazy offers they’ve got going on at but NASA has long since proven they are Austur is reputedly downtown’s best place most times and whatnot. Plus the clientele Reykjavík’s best club space by far. Most welcome nightlife Best place to drink like a to “suit up and drink down,” with one is “not too scary for a cheap bar.” It’s all (2009: Jacobsen) initiative: pro: frequent patron adding that “they have around the place where “students and Sódóma Reykjavík Live Pub some gorgeous women hanging out there. unfortunates” convene for a good time. Sódóma Reykjavík recently celebrated Drinking like a pro. It’s all about sort of Probably men too, but I wouldn’t know.” (2009: Hemmi og Valdi) Best place to hook up: their one year anniversary, and we disappearing into the void, slowly blacking It is, according to one letter, the place Really? thought now was the time celebrate out from existence while pondering your where “your regular, non-101 Icelander Best all-round Bar: Look, we debated this at length. But really, them a little bit, too. Besides offering purported ill fortune. Or just getting goes to get his drink on,” and seeing as Bakkus if you have to get pointers from magazines you a most welcome chance to piss on shitfaced by yourself. You choose. the majority of Icelanders belong to that This category is an argument-inducing on where and how to hook-up with folks, bankster faces (if you’re a dude), they took In any case, Grand rokk won this crowd, it is undoubtedly pretty fucking one, as we can attest. Still, everyone chances are you won’t get any. Ever. it upon themselves to set up a kick-ass category hands down last year, as the hot. eventually agreed that right now Bakkus (2009: Vegamót (6-10) / Hressó (solid 5) / soundsystem and hire an experienced atmosphere just begged for sitting alone (New category) is really providing an unbeatable party like Dubliners (0-4) ) booker to ensure Reykjavík had a nice in a corner while consuming mass nowhere else. People are going so far as and functional live music venue. Which consumption of alcohol. Which everyone saying “it’s like some sorta reincarnation is sorta awesome. We have no idea how needs to do from time to time. Grand Best place to start the night: of Sirkús. Except not as cool. But nearly,” Best place to watch sports the local concert scene would be without rokk sadly closed down this winter, so Nýlenduvörverzlun Hemma & Valda – some pretty weighty words that we don’t them, in fact we are dread to think about modern drunkards needed to find another over a beer: This place is a staff favourite at the really know if we can wholeheartedly Hvíta perlan it. hole to drown themselves in. It was our Grapevine, and a lot of you seem to agree. back up (seriously, Sirkús? That place is Austurstræti seems to have turned (New category). panel’s (and your e-mails) decision that No doubt, it is indeed a fine place to fucking legendary). Still, we can agree, as
Bæjarins bestu as “unbeatable prices,” and a nice central going anywhere. “Everyone goes there. All the time. For location. Runner-up: Frú Lauga is another equally Runners-up: The Red Cross stores all have welcome addition to the Reykjavík foodie THE over 70 years now. Not exactly gourmet dining, but a really freaking great snack THE some very nice items on offer, it’s for a scene. great cause and a lot of folks were rooting (New category) BEST OF nonetheless.” REYKJAVÍK BEST OF for them to get the prize. Maybe next year? INSTITUTIONS REYKJAVÍK SHOPPING REYKJAVÍK (New category) aka 2010 Best place for visitors to Ísbúð Vesturbæjar AND 2010 Best place to shop for high stock up on local design: ‘THE UNTOUCHABLES’ “It’s hard to explain the charm to fashion: Kraum outsiders, just tell them to go there. The COMMERCE KronKron There are surprisingly many shops ever-present queue speaks for itself.” KronKron have been supplying the around specialising in all sorts of fashion conscious crowd with high-end Icelandic design items. They are all pretty Best place to shop designer wear for many years now. Well nice (the stores’ appeal will depend a lot Hornið stocked with a plethora of interesting on your tastes and likes) but Kraum still for touristy stuff: and innovative international brands and received the most nominations and votes “For a restaurant to remain so consistently Handprjónasambandið designers that can make you look all in this category, with folks citing that on top of its game for over thirty years There are now a lot more tourist shops sophisticated and world-weary at the drop “the range of items and sheer number is one huge achievement. They are cosy, around in Reykjavík than when we of a hat, they’ve managed to “constantly of designers represented puts them dependable and ever-tasty.” researched this category last year. The stay ahead of the curve.” Oh, it comes at a in a league above everyone else in this When compiling this year’s best of list, fact remains unchanged, however, that price, but beauty is pain and all. market,” as one reader remarked It also we got to thinking that some of these Handprjónasambandið offers the most Runners-up: In the same league, GK probably doesn’t hurt that they’re located places are so firmly established as local Mokka authentic, useful and plain nice Iceland- caters to a “slightly older crowd,” but in the oldest house in Reykjavík (built in favourites that naming them “best of” “They brought ‘coffee’ to Iceland, pretty memorabilia out there (unless you’ve got they’ve been doing it with style and 1762 – which means it isn’t really that old). anything is both redundant and even a thing for stuffed puffin and volcanic much”. panache for a very long time. (New category) possibly mildly offensive. ash-in-a-bag). Handprjónasambandið sells (New category) It’s also kinda unfair to all the places the ultra-traditional, always-stylish hand- that are trying to make their name today. knit sweater, as well as a plethora of other Most fun shop: hand-knit items (their name does translate For instance, there will only ever be one Tíu dropar Best haberdashery: Havarí/Útúrdúr Ísbúð Vesturbæjar, with its beloved queue “Quintessentially Icelandic in every way. as “The hand knitting association,” so go Herrafataverzlun Kormáks & The Havarí/Útúrdúr complex on and ‘old’ ice cream, and they will probably The coffee, the cake, the vibe. If I were to figure). They sorta rule, we think Skjaldar Austurstræti has certainly brought a firmly remain Reykjavík’s favourite ice point a visiting friend to ‘the essence of Runners-up: The more trendalicious of There really never was any doubt as to lot of fun and character to Reykjavík cream joint for as long as they don’t mess Iceland,’ this is where I would send him you might make your way to the Farmers who would score the title here. Shopping commerce since they opened for business up horribly. Market store. They also sell a lot of at Herrafataverzlun Kormáks & Skjaldar late last year. Originally conceived as a So we came up with a solution that we knitwear, but with a stylish, modern twist is always a fun and interesting experience, one off, meant to run only past Xmas, figure gives us the chance to honour some (“their sweaters look really cool”). Kolaportið the store clerks are knowledgeable and the music and art book complex won of the perennial local favourites while still “If Kolaportið weren’t around, we’d need (2009: Handprjónasambandið) helpful and you can walk out looking like enough hearts in a short enough time to giving props to new and exciting places to establish it immediately, lest we vanish a Mad Men extra (note: they are probably justify becoming a permanent addition around town. We simply made a category the reason why so many local dudes walk to Reykjavík’s shopping landscape. As that we call REYKJAVÍK INSTITUTIONS back to the dark ages of commerce.” Best place to get a trendy around looking like Mad Men extras). one reader noted, this is probably in no (aka UNTOUCHABLES). haircut: (New category) small part due to their “inventiveness What makes a ‘REYKJAVÍK Rauðhetta og úlfurinn and carefree spirit – they regularly stage INSTITUTION’, you ask? Well, by our Bókabúð Braga (Bókin) Rauðhetta og úlfurinn are pretty much concerts and display art there, and the makeshift definition, a ‘REYKJAVÍK “It’s hard to imagine Reykjavík without it. verging on institution territory when it poster of the week series is also really INSTITUTION’ is a place or entity that’s Best place to shop organic: So let’s not.” comes to trendy haircuts. In fact, that’s Yggdrasill cool.” time and time again proven itself as one what some of your write-ins suggested, Even though they moved location, from They are also a fine place to score free of the best of its kind, and has remained as in: “they are Iceland’s hairdressing Skólavörðustígur to Rauðarárstígur, drinks from time to time, due to the a must-visit throughout the years. When institution, especially since the place is Brynja Yggdrasill are still the reigning kings of frequent rate of their openings and achieving INSTITUTION status, one is ancient in ‘fashion years.’ It’s unusual for “This neighbourhood hardware store this category. They’ve got pretty much concerts. automatically disqualified from winning any place to keep their stature for so long almost predates Laugavegur, and they everything you need for some healthy (New category) any ‘best of’ categories, because they’re in the fickle word of fashion, but they keep always serve you with a smile (and don’t and/or “health conscious” living in beyond being ‘best’, having been all doing it.” It comes with a price, of course. mind throwing in some good advice when Iceland in stock – except for willpower. consistently awesome for a long, long Runners-up: There were many time. needed.” (2009: Yggdrasill) Best bookstore: nominations for all sorts of “unofficial” Eymundsson Skólavörðustígur A REYKJAVÍK INSTITUTION is a hairdressing joints that we didn’t really Eymundsson Skólavörðustígur seems to must-visit for tourists to Reykjavík. feel comfortable recommending (we be everyone favourite place to shop for A REYKJAVÍK INSTITUTION will Austur-Indía félagið Most welcome addition: don’t want to get anyone arrested for new books in Reykjavík, and we have to retain its status as such until it starts “Probably your safest bet for fine dining in Fiskmarkaðurinn við gömlu höfnina “unauthorised hairstyling” or anything). agree (even though we wish they’d place sucking hard, in which case we will We have no idea if this place is going to Iceland, period.” But you should seek them out if you’re less emphasis on the café and more on the ceremoniously remove them from our list stick around for winter, but we want to into it. (2009: Rauðhetta og úlfurinn) books). next year. give it a large BIG UP while they’re here anyway. Fiskmarkaðurinn við gömlu As you guys pointed out, “they sport the
Feel like we missed one? Drop us a höfnina (“The fish market by the old best or at least most interesting selection Kaffibarinn Best place to shop second- of English language literature in town,” line at [email protected] explaining harbour”) is open every Saturday from “Despite some ups and downs, hand: 10-17, and they are, well, a fish market. and “their staff is very knowledgeable and The Salvation Army store Kaffibarinn has remained the undisputed why a given place should be merited You can buy fresh fish, processed fish and friendly.” Too bad they don’t have their A veritable treasure chest for those that reigning champion of Reykjavík nightlife INSTITUTION status, and we shall all sorts of other stuff there, mostly fish- original location any more. don’t mind digging around a little for and drinking for well over a decade. They consider it for our 2011 edition! related. It really is one of those places that (New category) their threads, the Salvation Army store are a true nightlife institution.” has been sorely lacking in Reykjavík up has a lot of nice variety “that you can sink until now, and we are hoping they’re not yourself into for hours on end,” as well The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 09 — 2010 22
Dr. Gunni’s History Of Icelandic Rock | Part 20 Shabbiness And Bankruptcy Or: Reykjavík’s ‘Best’ Concert Venues Throughout The Years
Obviously I have no first-hand experience of clubs stands by Austurvöllur, remodelled to match its before I started playing in 1980, but from what I’ve former swankiness, but its days as a concert venue heard there were some pretty cool venues oper- are mostly in the past. ated before my time. Safarí Vetrargarðurinn The place to play in the early eighties (besides The most exotic one was operated in the fifties. Hótel Borg, of course) was Safarí, a low roofed, It was called Vetrargarðurinn (“The Winter Gar- 450-capacity club on Skúlagata. The dance floor den”) and was located at the Tívolí in Vatnsmýri, featured blinking lights, much like the ones at leg- an amusement park in the mire beside Reykjavík endary disco club Hollywood. There were no ‘disco airport (the Tívolí was run from 1946 to 1964 and freaks’ at Safarí, however, just hip people from the brings a lot of nostalgia to some). Vetrargarðurinn Rokk í Reykjavík era, now gone all ‘new roman- was small and got hot and steamy, even when it tic,’ dancing endlessly to The B52s’ ‘Rock Lobster,’ was frosty outside. It had our grandparents hop- or so it seems in my Alzheimer-lite version of the ping along to primitive rock ‘n’ roll by early Ice- place. landic rock groups such as Lúdó and Falcon. The Safarí opened in 1983, but had one year op- place was a bit cut off so folks had to take a taxi erated as Villti tryllti Villi (“Wild, furious Villi”), a or walk home afterwards, and presumably many teen club that sold soda and hamburgers instead Icelanders were conceived in the ditch besides the of alcohol. Safarí was to change names, owners road. and ID numbers frequently over the next years, as business was sloppy. It became Roxý, then Roxzý, Finnbogadóttir was painted on the most promi- Glaumbær and eventually Casablanca. nent wall. Tunglið’s cellar housed a tiny club called Glaumbær is the most legendary beatnik and hip- My most memorable gigs there were support- Bíókjallarinn (later Rósenberg). It housed every- pie venue in Reykjavík, not the least because of its ing German noisemakers Einsturzende Neubauten thing from biker rock gigs to ecstasy raves. Tunglið burning down in 1971. Glaumbær was the place to and Australian rock band Crime & The City Solu- probably housed up to a thousand people, so of- be in the sixties: two floors of narrow corridors, tion in 1986 with my band S.H. Draumur. The Ger- ten the attendance looked quite tragic. The place bars and two stages. Bands in matching suits gave mans had brought teen girls along (from Bahnhof burned down in 1998 [via arson], after years of way for lambskin vested longhairs as the sixties Zoo presumably) and Blixa and co. had us out of continuing shabbiness. A new house was built on turned into the seventies, and Rúnar Júlíusson the backstage room before the gig (so they could the premises and is now known as the Iða house from Trúbrot could often been seen hanging from shoot up heroin, I guess). The Australians were at Lækjargata. the chandelier in a hippie rock frenzy. The source more relaxed and we hung out with them back- of the fire was said to be a cigarette from the pre- stage. This was quite awesome for me, as two Tveir vinir og annar í fríi vious night’s festivities. Some of hippie band Nát- members of the group had previously played in By the mid-nineties, the comparatively best “The dance floor featured blinking túra's gear burned down with the place, and in the The Birthday Party, a band I absolutely loved at venue was the weirdly named Tveir vinir og an- lights, much like the ones at weeks after the fire some bands held rallies urging the time. Unfortunately, I was not in Iceland a few nar í fríi (“Two friends and another on vacation”) the city to rebuild Glaumbær. Nothing came of this, months later when Nick Cave—the main guy from on Laugavegur. It was a carpeted cellar run by legendary disco club Hollywood. and the place lay dormant for years until The Na- The Birthday Party—showed up to play Roxzý with Ragnhildur “Hilla”, a kind elderly woman who tional Gallery of Iceland opened on the site in 1987. The Bad Seeds. handled show bookings in-between everything There were no ‘disco freaks’ at else. The place had a karaoke machine and a wi- Safarí, however, just hip people Kópavogsbíó Duus-Hús descreen TV, too. It was more “real rock” then the My first gig was at Kópavogsbíó (Kópavogur’s cin- Duus-Hús on Fischersund opened in 1984, but other venue at the time, Gaukur á stöng (“Cuckoo from the Rokk í Reykjavík era, ema) in 1980. It is where Icelandic punk was un- Stuðmenn were the first band to play the club in on a stick”), which was more ‘pub rock’ or ‘corny now gone all ‘new romantic,’ deniably born through punk band Fræbbblarnir's 1986, when a new room was added to the place. pop’. This place hasn’t burnt down yet, but it was relentless efforts. The cinema opened in 1959 and For the next few years, this would be where ev- changed to a strip club—Vegas—in the late nine- dancing endlessly to The B52s’ also served as a community hall. The place had eryone from Ham to The Sugarcubes could rig up ties. become quite shabby when the punkers took it a gig. As the room was small, fifty people would There has never been an abundance of good ‘Rock Lobster,’“ over 20 years later, throwing concerts there oc- make it feel like a packed house. The highlight of live music venues in Reykjavík—and there has casionally over the next three years. The gigs at Duus-Hús’ existence happened in August 1990 never really been a really great place to play either, Kópavogsbíó usually started at 2 PM on Saturdays when The Sugarcubes played a private concert at least not for the last 30 years. There are usu- and were all ages ones, as no booze was for sale. there for French political leaders, President Mit- ally some shabby holes available for bands to pick You might have been able to buy popcorn though. terand and Minister of Culture, Jack Lang (who from, ranging in size—but maybe current places was a Sugarcubes fan) during their official visit to like NASA and Rósenberg shouldn't be called Hótel Borg Iceland. After Duus ceased to exist the place was “shabby holes” though. Yet venues continue to go During the ‘Rokk í Reykjavík era’ (1980-1982, squatted by the down and out for a while, until it bankrupt or burn down. The last one to catch fire when punk and new wave finally made it to Ice- was torn down and eventually replaced by another was Organ, a fine shabby hole that burned to the land, as documented in Friðrik Þór Friðriksson’s building. ground last year. legendary 1982 documentary, ‘Rokk í Reykjavík’), -nni Dr. Gu the main venue was Hótel Borg. This swankiest of Tunglið (and Bíókjallarinn, and hotels in town opened in 1930 and has sporadical- Rósenberg) By Dr. Gunni, based on his 2000 book Eru ekki allir í stuði? ly housed dance events and concerts since then. In the late eighties, Tunglið (“The Moon”), opened (Rock in Iceland). This is where British and American troops came in a building that had originally housed a cinema 1. The Sugarcubes play a private gig for French to get some action during the occupation years. (Nýja bíó – “New Cinema”). Many legendary gigs politicians at Duus-Hús in 1990 The high roofed hall was on the first floor, and by took place there, like Ham's ‘farewell’ gig in 1994. 2. Glaumbær in 1969 1980 the former glory could be spotted through The place was quick to become shabby even 3. Safarí ‘new romantic’ newspaper ad from the prevalent shabbiness. The hotel still proudly though an ambitious mural of President Vigdís 1984
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OUR TICKET SALE IN REYKJAVIK OLD HARBOUR IS OPEN FROM 8 AM TO 8 PM BOOKING BY PHONE: +354 892 0099 ONLINE BOOKING: puffinexpress.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 09 — 2010 24
Music | Interview Seabear: The Icelandic Wu-Tang Clan? Not really, but it would be cool if they were
Words Haukur S. Magnússon Photography Julia Staples
Everyone loves Seabear. How could they not? The music is infectious, catchy, melodic and soothing. The lyrics are verbalizations of surrealist paintings, and the on-stage atmo- sphere is just plain lovely. Anyway, we won’t waste any space intro- ducing the group, as your casual music fan will know all about them (and the rest of y’all can just up and Wikipedia that shit for band history, stats and the like). What’s important is they are one of Iceland’s reigning indie outfits at the moment, their new record, ‘We Built A Fire,’ sounds excellent, and they are throwing a release concert for it next week. We called up head Seabear (and head Sin Fang Bous- er, as it were), Sindri Már Sigfússon, and asked him about life, the band, music, touring and Wu-Tang. We began by asking: “How are things?”
“Well, things are just fine at the moment, thank band. But I do have some good friends who always They say that’s supposed to be very good in today’s “The Seabear one? I think it’s you. We’re getting ready for our record release con- play with me. world and, like I say, we can draw a pretty big au- cert on the ninth, then we’re headed for the Lunga Of your musical contemporaries, who do you feel a dience in many places. So I can’t complain. But been received just fine. I haven’t festival in the East fjords... Then we’re going to Eu- kinship to? it’s hard to get a feel for it these days, how many really listened to it since we rope again in September, bringing along Kimono Of those that are doing something at the moment? people are actually listening to the music. You who’ll be opening up for us on the tour. That will I don’t know. I get these temporary obsessions ev- can’t really judge by record sales anymore. We can finished making it last August. I be a lot of fun, I think. In October we’ll be going ery now and again, where I’ll play certain bands at least tour now without losing money. And that’s back to the US, playing shows in New York and or albums to death, only to forget all about them a quite good these days. had a total overdose of that record, on the West Coast. Then it’s back for some Europe week later. There are of course constants that I lis- and couldn’t bear to listen to it touring in November. And then, hopefully, we’ll ten to regularly, like Tom Waits, who is someone I Where’s the Bous? have toured this album enough. listen to all the time. At the moment, I’m obsessed once it was done. I’m going wait with Talking Heads; I’m listening to everything of What are some of the main differences between another two years or so and then What? You have another record coming out right theirs I can get my hands on. Sin Fang and Seabear? away? I do try to regularly visit all the music blogs Well... I don’t really know. I’m so close to those give it a spin.“ Not another Seabear record, no. I’m actually not that post interesting music and check out what projects that it’s hard to listen objectively... But, sure when the next Seabear album will come out. they’re recommending. But I couldn’t name any well, maybe I let myself get a bit more crazy with I do have another Sin Fang album coming out this particular band or musician out there that I espe- Sin Fang. That’s just me alone with a guitar, while voice!" He said that everyone has a ‘crazy voice’ year, hopefully. It’s just about ready now. I’m hop- cially connect with. Seabear sorta developed into a band, and after and that if one listened well one could hear it. I ing I can trick my record company into putting it Come to think of it, I’ve always had an affin- playing together for a while we went in a certain tried to do that for Clangour. Another rule I made out in 2010. ity for Mugison, and we always have some pretty direction. And we’ve continued on that path since. up was that I had to play everything on the record good conversation. I’ve always liked him; he’s one Sin Fang is just me going nuts. myself, and that I had to test the limits of my voice. Do you never sleep? of those independents, a no-bullshit guy. Maybe the main difference is that Sin Fang, at These rules all made the process fun and kind of Hahaha. I sleep plenty. It’s just what I like to do, its core, is just me making the music that I’d like to exciting for me. writing and recording music. Some very extreme touring be listening to, while the Seabear tunes are played As for the new Seabear record, I was thinking into shape by the band, and everyone contributes a lot about a rural moods and rural relationships Temporary obsessions You guys have been touring a lot. What’s it like? to the music and overall sound. when we made that. It wasn’t pointing to any It’s just fine, probably a lot better than a lot of particular geographical location, but more of an How has the album been received? Are you happy other things, anyway. But it depends. We have Why did you remove the ‘Bous’ from Sin Fang abstract place within the mind. Maybe you can’t with it? been doing some very extreme touring ever since Bous? really hear it on the record – I don’t know – but it The Seabear one? I think it’s been received just New Year’s, and we’ve been out of the country a Well, I always just said Sin Fang when I was talk- did help me a lot with writing the lyrics. fine. I haven’t really listened to it since we finished lot. Right now, we’re on our first little break since ing about the band, so I eventually just thought making it last August. I had a total overdose of that January. that having the Bous attached was kinda pointless. It seems like the whole of Seabear is sort of branch- record, and couldn’t bear to listen to it once it was As for the touring itself: It’s not like we’re a It got in people’s way a lot – a lot of folks had a hard ing out, with Sóley now releasing her solo stuff, done. I’m going wait another two years or so and huge band that can afford to take the luxury route. time pronouncing and remembering it. Three Örn Ingi playing with Skakkamanage, Kjartan then give it a spin. We spend many hours a day in a crammed van, for words are too much. Two words, you’ll remember. with kimono and yourself and all of your projects. But sure, I remember being quite happy with three weeks at a time. It is ridiculously fun, and So I thought I’d commercialise a bit, try and sell Then the various members keep making art proj- it, happier than I was with the first one for sure. It then it can get really hard, awful and boring. There some records! ects and whatnot. Are you the Wu-Tang Clan of took us a long time to get off our asses and make are always ups and downs. Icelandic music? it, and long time to record. I’m thinking that next The band is at a place right now where we can “Listen to your crazy voice!” Yes, we are the Icelandic Wu-Tang Clan. But of time we’ll hire a producer to record, so we can just easily sell out shows if we’re play a capital city, like course. Inga and I made the cover art for Sóley, show up with the songs. That way, I won’t have to Stockholm or London or something. Those shows What are your lyrics about? Do you write them be- and I helped record her album... there are all sorts record them, which is a really time consuming are always packed. But when we visit smaller fore or after you write the songs? of things being done by everyone and they all process. It’s probably going to be more fun for me towns, like Heidelberg or whatever, maybe only It depends. Having a set theme for the entire al- tend to cross over. Does that make us a Wu-Tang- if I can focus on just playing the guitar and sing- thirty or forty people show up. But it’s gone very bum makes the lyric writing process a lot easier. style collective? I don’t know. But it would be cool, ing. well in general. We’ve visited the same places a Lyrics actually the hardest part for me. I especially though. Are you the mayor of Seabear and Sin Fang? Do few times by now, and there are more people at burned myself on the first Seabear record, where Lastly, why do you feel the need create so much you control everything that goes on within these the shows every time. It’s just starting to work out I published some lyrics that I wasn’t totally happy music? bands? money-wise now, which is really nice. with, and then had to sing them on stage for the I don’t know. I like it. I graduated from the Iceland No. Seabear is simply a band now; we meet for Is Seabear a famous band? Is it more famous than next five years. You quickly learn the value of be- Academy of Arts in 2007, and haven’t really done practice, write some tunes and record them, which Sin Fang? ing meticulous. an honest day’s work since. I just go into the studio is your basic band routine I believe. The Sin Fang Yeah, I think Seabear is bigger than Sin Fang at What kind of themes do you work with? in the morning and try to treat it like a 9-5 job. stuff is more solo oriented, I wrote all the songs for this point. Seabear draws a larger crowd from Well, with the Sin Fang album, for instance, I the first album and played all the instruments. Sin what I can tell. I don’t think were famous, though. made all kinds of rules for it. I took the idea from Fang is me, and I’m not about to change it into a I think we’ve sold a total of around 30.000 records. an artist who urged people to "listen to your crazy eistnaflug.is Egilsbúð Neskaupstað
SECOND HAND CLOTHING STORE SINCE 1985 LAUGAVEGUR 28B KRINGLAN SHOPPING MALL The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 09 — 2010 Check out our new Mayor, Jón Gnarr, cavorting on the catwalk below! WHAT REALLY 26 Shopping | Second-hand shopping in style HAPPENED … Y our Style Salvation By Vilhelm Gunnarsson; a well known news photographer Salvation Army shops are a fashion blessing
Style for all If you’re still shopping-hungry after Highlights Laugavegur and you want a real taste The Salvation Army makes fabulous of Reykjavík fashion, head to the wrong clothes available to anyone willing to side of the tracks, the grisly underbelly search. Þórunn Ósk Rafnsdóttir told the Te h SaLVATION of Reykjavík style, the Salvation Army. Grapevine that she’s found tons of fan- Army Fashion Well, that’s stretching it. Reykjavík tastic items for herself and her kids. “I doesn’t really have a wrong side of the don’t have a husband, so I don’t have Show tracks (even if there was a railroad. much money to buy clothes,” Þórunn Which there isn’t), and the Salvation said. The Salvation Army is perfect for Reykjavík’s new mayor, Jón Gnarr, Army is actually a pretty nice place. style on the cheap. kicks off the show with all serious- The store’s down-to-earth image might Anyone can appreciate that. “You ness in a slobtacular tracksuit, then lead you to believe that there should can get a homeless dude or you can re-appears mid-show with boda- be a sign outside announcing, “Dowdy get a rich woman—all in search of the cious wife and two cute kids in tow. Folks Only,” but you would be wrong. In unique thing, the gullmolar [gold nug- fact, on June 3 ‘Sally Ann’ brought her gets],” Dorthea said. “But we want to Model sports undercut hairdo and snap- glamorous side out of the closet and keep the prices so that it’s at a level for py purple skirt suit. Pro catwalk moves. onto the catwalk. everyone.” The Salvation Army teamed up with The Salvation Army gets goods in celebrities and a few talented stylists to every day, so there’s always something Páll Óskar dons a blousey gold and black put on a fashion show in Austurvöllur new on the racks. “It’s just like treasure shirt, skin-tight black jeans, and slick square downtown. Catwalkers included hunting,” Bára Kristgeirsdóttir, a graph- black boots to perform his hit ‘Þú komst Jón Gnarr, Reykjavík’s new mayor, and ic design student, said as she tried on a við hjartað í mér’ live on the catwalk. Páll Óskar, arguably Iceland’s most fab- pair of mid-calf grey boots. ulous gay icon. Along with shopping for her kids, Songstress Birgitta Haukdal, Ice- Carmen Jóhannsdóttir was one of Þórunn also sometimes finds fashion land’s 2003 Eurovision competitor, these stylists. She got involved when items for herself. Her favourite is a Cha- sports a dusty rose floral cheongsam Dorthea H. Dam, who works at the nel suit with gold buttons. Old money to with matching white floral updo. SA, spotted Carmen’s style sense and the max. asked if she’d be willing to help out. It “You can see the quality in the was all very spur-of-the-moment. “We clothes,” Hanna Jónsdóttir, a local de- Model shows off an asymmetri- didn’t have any special ideas before signer, said. The stuff you can find at cal hemline black dress with art- the models arrived for the fitting. It was Salvation Army has withstood the test fully wrapped skinny belt, teetering very random,” said Carmen. She was of time, Hanna pointed out. It’s proven on beige lace-up, peep-toe wedges. particularly fond of the show’s open- itself to be high quality—not the sort of ing in which Jón Gnarr, Reykjavík’s new poorly made clothing that falls apart in Dance pop sensation Haffi Haff and his mayor, and actor Benedict Erlingsson the wash. slicked back coif hamming it up for the appeared dressed as “Yugoslavian Carmen’s closet is stuffed with gangsters.” Carmen also enjoyed Jón’s Salvation Army treasures. She’s found crowd in several appearances, most appearance later in the show with his some of her favourite items there—“a notably in a chequered black and white wife and two of his kids as a “white suede jacket from the late ‘80s, early blazer reminiscent of Max Headroom. trash family.” Apparently, Jón specifi- ‘90s with gold clasps. Black suede Tax Free Shopping cally wanted to look like The Dude from shoes. Skirts, shirts, whatever. Lots of The Big Lebowski. things!” Despite its glitz, the fashion show’s But as it stands, shoppers have to “Apparently, Jón [Gnarr] at Reykjavík’s Largest purpose was humble. “If we get more put in a little elbow grease. “You have money into the shop, then we can help to dig a little bit,” Carmen said. “If specifically wanted to look more people,” said Dorthea. “There are you’re interested in fashion and you’re like The Dude from the Shopping Centre so many people in Iceland that need creative, you can definitely find some- help because of the crisis.” Dorthea has thing there.” film The Big Lebowski.“ personally experienced a real increase in the number of people coming to the Salvation Army’s day shelter for help, both in Reykjavík and at the location in Akureyri, where she used to work. All Salvation Army’s profits go to causes stephanie orford within Iceland. lendra a xa young
At Kringlan you will discover more than 150 quality shops, a wide range of restaurants and services such as banks and a multiplex cinema. All major international brands are represented, as well as Icelandic designs and souvenirs. We’ve Got Your Steaming Hot Claim your tax-free cash refund at our service desk for a refund of Grapevine T-shirt Right Here up to 15% of the VAT. -Impress your friends! -Pick up men, women or both! es, The Reykjavík Grapevine finally has a -Show off your impeccable tastes! T-shirt all of its own. Pick up a copy of this -Make friends and influence people! sweet, limited edition item at Havarí on -Pledge your undying allegiance to The Austurstræti or Dogma on Laugavegur – 101 Grapevine! Reykjavík. And do it now. For the children. -Cover your torso in style! -Support your local alt.magazine! -Buy tourist merch that’s less obviously Mon.–Wed. 10–18.30, Thu. 10–21, Fri. 10–19, Sat. 10–18, Sun. 13–18 touristy! 150,8x195mm
The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 09 — 2010 Honestly, they did not pay us for publishing this! We didn't even get one lousy free beer or anything. 27
Drinking | Beer The Belle Of The Bar Ölstofan serves up a one-of-a-kind tribute beer
Try our famous Icelandic Gourmet Fiest
» Starts with a shot of the infamous Icelandic spirit Brennívín
» Smoked puffin with blueberry “brennivín” sauce » Icelandic sea-trout with peppers-salsa » Lobster tails baked in garlic The bar Ölstofan located on Veg- hints of berry and the super cold tem- » Pan-fried monkfish with lobster sauce amótastígur is a cosy, laid-back pub perature at which it is served, making it known for a fine array of local and im- extremely pleasant to take nice big sips » Grilled Icelandic lamb Samfaina of and have a few in a row. It also comes ported brews. They have recently be- » Minke Whale with cranberry-sauce come the only bar in Reykjavík to serve served in a really beautiful tulip glass its own exclusive brand of beer, thanks that makes you feel super fancy while » World famous chocolate cake with to a collaboration with the Borg micro- drinking it. Maybe that’s why some la- berry compoté and whipped cream brewery. Borg is a small offshoot of Öl- dies like it, but I just thought it tasted gerðin, the largest and oldest brewery in damn good. Iceland. Opened one year ago, their first The brand is named for a close friend 5.890 ikr. project was working with the owners of who passed away last autumn. The mon- Ölstofan, Kormákur and Skjöldur, in iker is drawn from a popular song and creating a one of a kind draft beer to suit describes a happy-go-lucky person. “Bríó the bar’s collection and reflect the pur- is a way of life,” says Kormákur, “It’s like ported good taste of its owners. when you have all your grocery bags and “It started a year ago. Our most you should go home, but instead you go popular beer was Grolsch and it looked to the bar and your wife is calling won- The only kitchen like we wouldn’t have it anymore,” Ko- dering where you are, but that beer was in Reykjavík open rmákur tells us, “Borg had just opened so good! My friend was named Bríó, so it and they asked us if we would like to cre- is in honour of him.” to 23:30 on weekdays RESTAURANT- BAR ate our own beer with them.” They taste- He says the beer is now selling so Vesturgata 3B | 101 Reykjavík tested a variety of types of beers and well that the brewery might have trouble and 01:00 on weekends Tel: 551 2344 | www.tapas.is flavours and landed on a light, German keeping up with the demand. “I thought pilsner with a strong Czech influence to it would be maybe a quarter or one fifth the flavour. of our sales,” he continues, “but in the The beer also has a shorter life-span first week it was 60% of our sales. Every- Pizzeria tel. 578 8555 Lækjargata 8 Downtown than the average brew, meaning it only one is taking Bríó now. Our regular cus- stays good for about three months and tomers love it and we are getting even has to be kept and served very cold. Be- more new customers.” They hope to col- cause of this, Kormákur says the beer is laborate with Borg on making more new great to drink when one is very thirsty. flavours in the future. “It’s really refreshing and you can drink a lot of it,” he chuckles. He also says the beer appeals to both beer fetishists and casual beer drinkers alike. “I thought it Probably the best pizza was not a ‘girl beer’, but a lot of women are very satisfied with it,” he goes on. “It has a fruity taste and it is light enough.” Being a woman and beer lover my- in town self, this Grapevine reporter decided to head down and try it. I can attest that the beer is indeed quite enjoyable. The hon- ey-brown ale has a satisfying edge and a hint of bitterness that brings out the rebecca louder hops. The bite is balanced out by light Ölstofan
Special | Best Of Reykjavík: Locals Egill Spills His Beans Egill Prunner
Favourite place to sit down and eat? Við Tjörnina serves real traditional Ice- landic food. It's also healthy and stylish. Tannvernd barna Best place to grab a coffee? Mokka. They do great lattes and cappuccinos that are not made from a machine but an old authentic coffee grinder. I once asked them where their coffee beans were from and they won't tell me. A family secret apparently. Best bar? I like the English Pub as it has a great cultural influence. Best kept secret? Öskjuhlíð is very beautiful and you can see the remains of the WW2 military base. The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 09 — 2010 28
Art | Films Geysir Fact #3 Cold On The Outside, Warm On The Inside Cheap Cars ICELAND :: FILM chronicles 100 years of Icelandic spirit
Alection Se Of Icelandic Films
The Raven Flies (Director Hrafn Gunnlaugsson, 1985) “I am Inigo Montoya. You killed my fa- ther. Prepare to die.” Well almost, but not www.geysir.is quite. This is a revenge historical fiction that doesn’t quite end as you’d think. Dirty faced Vikings fight it out against stunning basalt cliff beaches in southern Iceland to a soundtrack that’s sometimes distracting- ly ‘80s. An insight into the workings of Ice- landic Viking tribes a thousand years ago.
Children of Nature (Director Friðrik Þór Friðriksson, 1991) A pensive, tragic, surprisingly funny love/ adventure story of an elderly Icelandic couple reclaiming their freedom from a nursing home. Icelandic landscape porn— ravishing to the greatest effect, with a The country’s largest Despite the economic crash, Icelan- almost impossible to decipher, espe- soundtrack to equal it. Could have done National Museum of Iceland dic film has come into its heyday. cially from the three-minute clips. without the inexplicable magical realism. museum of cultural Opening hours: From Sunshine Boy, a 2009 docu- Icelanders are proud and protec- Nominated for an Oscar. history featuring a Summer mentary about a mother’s search for tive of their landscape and culture. Angels Of The Universe an autism treatment, to Nói Albinói, This is apparent even from the ear- (Director Friðrik Þór Friðriksson, 2000) permanent exhibition on (May 1st – September 15th) a bittersweet coming-of-age story (the liest films in the exhibit—mostly The powerful illustration of a man’s de- Daily 10–17 Iceland’s extraordinary best kind), Icelandic films have come documentaries. The Rescue Feat At scent into mental illness. Páll’s bouts of Winter into their own. The film industry got Látrabjarg (1949) was created in a re- rage, complete with table flipping, are history from settlement emotionally trying to watch, but make the (September 16th – April 30th) a slow start because of a lack of fund- markable coincidence. It was meant film’s quiet moments all the more effective. to present day. ing over most of the 20th century, yet to be a documentary and re-enact- Daily except Mondays 11–17 One scene you’re cringing at the stress Páll Iceland still managed to squeak out ment about the demise of the British puts his family through, and another you’re films from as early as 1904. The ex- fishing trawler Dhoon on the rocky chuckling conspiratorially with the boys hibition ICELAND :: FILM explores cliffs of Látrabjarg a few years earlier. from the psychiatric hospital in their glori- ous night on the town. As in Children Of But as the film crew were making Icelandic film all the way back to its Nature, Friðrik Þór Friðriksson’s fade-out roots. Take a couple of hours and a the doc on-site, another British trawl- visuals create a dreamy atmosphere and Suðurgata 41 · 101 Reykjavík · Tel. +354 530-2200 · www.natmus.is notepad, and let yourself get fired up er capsized near the same spot, the impart an altered sense of passing time. about all the Icelandic films you need people of the nearby village valiantly How delicate “normal” perception of real- to watch. rescued the ship’s crew, and all was ity is. All you need is the watching sta- captured on film. 101 Reykjavik tions organised along the wall, each Another antique film, Horn- (Director Baltasar Kormákur, 2000) showing two- or three-minute clips strandir (1944-1948), features the A tale of sex and love in Reykjavik. Each Reykjavík Literally of a handful of films made around dramatic Hornstrandir peninsula in scene is like a short story in itself, and is A Guided Walking Tour the same time period. The exhibit Iceland’s Westfjords. The landscape crafted with the care of a Wes Anderson film with fastidious attention to character guides you chronologically through is spectacular, its cliffs hosting vast details. We find ourselves laughing at sad Every Thursday in July and August at 5 pm. Icelandic film. numbers of birds in the summer. things, like the hapless protagonist—an ICELAND :: FILM is mostly And for a weird mix of new (at the Join us for a fun introduction to adorable loser with no future who lives friendly to those who don’t speak the time) filmmaking technology and with his mom and eats cereal while he’s Icelandic literature, with a bit of language, with write-ups in English traditional folklore, make sure you in the tub. Reykjavik is painted as a crazy- sex-party town where everyone is doing history mixed in. This 90 min. and several other languages, except watch The Last Farm In The Valley walk is at an easy pace and suits everyone. But there’s another side to sex, for a key feature: there are no sub- (1950), Iceland’s first feature length too. everyone. Starts at Reykjavik City titles. I guess this is advantageous fictional film. Its wonderfully ter- Library in Tryggvagata 15. because those without a good grasp rible special effects make it an acci- Nói The Albino Free of charge. of Icelandic will be less tempted to dental comic gem. (Director Dagur Kári, 2003) Nói, a misfit boy from an Icelandic fjord spend the entire afternoon watching ICELAND :: FILM is an ongoing Reykjavik City Library town, takes awhile to warm to, but you do. www.borgarbokasafn.is a screen—the exhibit also has watch- exhibition at the Culture House in A storyline that threatens to be ham-fist- Tel. 411 6100 ing stations showing several features Reykjavík. ed at first (e.g. boy genius solves Rubik’s full-length. The downside is that you cube) unfolds into an unusual coming of don’t know what in tarnation is going age tale. Some would say bleak, but a ray of optimism shines through. Careful visual on, especially in the language-heavy symbolism—blue tinted scenes offset vio- films. The visuals are still stunning, lent splashes of red, and sixties wallpaper the music still moving, the charac- stephanie orford features prominently. ters still multifaceted, but the plot is JULIA STAPLES
Special | Best Of Reykjavík Icelandic home cooking with a modern flair Shark • lobster• Lamb • Whale • Puffin • fish • Wild game ALL the icelandic beers Kitchen open till midnight! Used Books Are The Best Books Reykjavík’s Most Unique Bookstore
Bókin (Bókabúð Braga) The books, all previously owned, are Klapparstígur 25-27, 101 stacked everywhere and arranged in no recognisable order. You can find gold here, but you need to look for it. Bókin, or Bókabúð Braga as it is of- Bókabúð Braga rewards perseverance. ten called by locals, is quite easy to Operated since 1964, Bókin has a sys- spot when walking down Hverfisgata. tem that seems to work, although that It’s the only storefront on the street may not be evident the first time one with piles of books blocking the win- stops by, intrigued from the exterior dows. This is not your neighbourhood only to walk in bombarded from all an- Borders. Or Eymundsson. There is no gles with large stacks of musty tomes. language, from just about every time quaint cookie-cutter café to be found Admittedly, it can be a bit intimidating. period. It’s a treasure chest for book- on the upper level, nor are there any Sometimes you just don’t know where worms, antique collectors, and anyone stuffed puffins or tourist souvenirs near to start. who wants to check out a unique Reyk- the register. This is a grown-up book- When you do finally muster up the javík establishment. store. It is not for the faint of heart. courage to enter this amazing book- Check it out. Pósthússtræti 9 Reykjavík Tel: 578 2020 It is impossible to just pop into store, you will be met with books, www.icelandicbar.is [email protected] Bragi’s for a few minutes. When you magazines, records, and comics on just allison savage go, you need to set aside a few hours. about everything, in just about every JULIA STAPLES
The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 09 — 2010 If you are under the age of eighteen, you might want to look at some other page, aight? 30
Art | Performance Mystery Art In Nowhereland Embarking on unknown journeys of performance art and insanity
We are sitting in a pile of hay in Vo- pleting the task at hand. “What I like Don’t bother to pack your bags or gar, near Keflavík, drinking wine doing is just getting into a situation,” your map and watching hipsters lying about Mundi continues. “You have a goal, The trip we are currently on is the sec- in the evening sun. Kolbeinn Hugi you’re not acting in any way, and you’re ond time in a fortnight that the two have Höskuldsson and Mundi Vondi, a just completing your role. You haven’t dragged an unsuspecting group out of pair of local cool-kids-slash-artists pre-determined what you want to do or the city for a night to a secret location. who describe each other as a try- how you’re going to do it, you just know The first trip brought a bus of fifty peo- out musician and a fashion victim, what you’re going to accomplish.” ple to a gallery in Keflavík where, in ad- are freshly showered after giving a Kolbeinn Hugi recounts that people dition to the laser-cross performance, performance inside a turf covered often construe his events to be theatri- Kolbeinn Hugi exhibited a light display, shed. The people in attendance cal, but reacts strongly against this. “I a replica of the bar Bakkus was erected boarded a bus in downtown Reykja- met this guy and I handed him a flyer and hip electro-crew Quadruplos per- vík a few hours prior—well stocked and he was like ‘Is it theatre’” he re- formed a set. The bus ride down to the up on alcoholised beverages—with calls. “I said, ‘Theatre!? No! What the location also featured live on-the-road no clue where they were about to fuck? It’s anything BUT theatre!’” While tunes courtesy of the hilariously named go or what exactly they were about he admits that he feels more comfort- Señor Sweaty. On this trip, however, the to see. Little did they know they able with having a preferred outcome bus was not equipped to play live mu- were about to witness two naked to their works, their performances dif- sic, but after Kolbeinn Hugi and Mundi men covered in clay, dangling from ferentiate from theatre in that they are did their thing we were treated to the the ceiling, attacking a piñata of full not scripted or necessarily have their final show by Reykjavík noise-punk of beer. outcome pre-determined. In the case duo DLX ATX (they are currently ‘re- of the piece they have just completed, organising’ the band). The bus then re- “We started talking about how girls he says they were not entirely sure turned to the city by 10pm, just in time check out their genitals when they’re what they were setting out to accom- to go out and party. teenagers,” Kolbeinn Hugi muses over plish. “We just had some elements and When it comes to paying for these the last performance they did together. we tried them out in front of a crowd,” events, the two have managed to find “They have to stand on top of mirrors. I he shrugs. “I don’t know what makes it crafty ways to spend virtually no money. read this book that my niece had and it not suck. It’s probably your intuition or They keep their personal costs down by said you had to place the mirror on the something.” working with extremely cheap materi- floor and stand on it and check out your als, and they have become very good at vagina. So we were talking about plac- Naked ambition making the most of their resources and ing mirrors all over and then when you They certainly aren’t shy about the being frugal. The galleries and spaces have mirrors, you think about lasers.” things that fuel the inspiration for their that host their shows very graciously The performance of which he is work together either. “I like to think fund their travel costs. “A lot of the time speaking happened just two weeks about violence, and I’m a pornographic galleries will pay for a really small ad- prior, on a similar adventure, and con- maniac,” Mundi says, perfectly dead- vertisement in a magazine,” explains sisted of a bare-assed battle of laser- pan. This is rather unsurprising, con- Kolbeinn Hugi. “It will bring maybe two pointers inserted into the most daring sidering the piñata they unleashed their people and it will cost 40.000 ISK. Why of orifices and crawling around a dirty fury upon had their faces alternately not get a bus full of people, advertise cellar. “It started as a joke, but we re- projected upon it, and with each blow for free and get way more people, you alised quite fast that the joke had to of their sticks would release a horrible know?” become reality,” says Mundi. Luckily, cry of distress. Oh, and again: they Words both they and the crowd were socially were completely naked. Chill tactics Rebecca Louder lubricated with copious amounts of “It’s a great excuse to get naked,” As for the reason they bring people out free alcohol in order to lower the level Kolbeinn Hugi enthuses. “I got a phone of town for these events, they attribute Photography of perplexity. call from someone asking “Why are you it to the fact that things happen in the Julia Staples always doing this gay shit with Mundi?” city all the time, but the countryside Meaningless, but not vapid and I said “Hey man, he’s the only per- has its advantages. “I’ve done shows all Perplexing the audience is not neces- son who wants to get naked and do over,” says Kolbeinn Hugi, “and some never leave Reykjavík, or not for a good sarily the goal though. There seems to these things with me.” There’s always towns are interested, but some towns reason. They might go camping and Although it is currently unconfirmed, Kolbeinn be no intended purpose or message a need for naked people! They are in are not. People just want to stay home, have a good time with the grill, but we Hugi and Mundi are likely to organise more of from their artwork. In fact, Kolbeinn shortage. How many naked people do so why not just bring people over?” want to give people more.” these trips throughout the summer. They hap- Hugi is of the opinion that it is mis- you see a day? I see one, maximum. They also believe that bringing a Quite accurately, all the people pen at a moment’s notice, but the Grapevine guided to search for meaning. “In my Possibly more if I go to the swimming group of people together in a capacity who have come along seem to be in gets the inside scoop, so we’ll let you know! opinion people have this misconcep- pool.” like this effectively displaces them from a particularly laid back state. People tion about visual art,” he says, “you go “I just love to experience stuff that a normal art show setting. “When you are hanging around in the field by the to a visual art show and it’s supposed I haven’t seen before and I like to hear isolate the crowd like this, it forms a edge of the sea, sharing their drinks to mean something. You listen to music stuff I haven’t heard before,” he goes certain bond with the people,” Mundi and making new acquaintances with and you just accept it for what it is and on, “and the beauty of visual arts in explains. “You get them out of the city, people they otherwise may not have you enjoy, or you don’t. You don’t ques- general is that it’s accepted that you out of the where is the next thing hap- engaged with. “This would never hap- tion it. You go to a concert and you’re can do pretty much whatever the fuck pening, they are completely stuck here pen in town,” says Mundi. “It wouldn’t not like, “Why does he play the riff this you want. The downside is that it’s al- so they relax more. I think us driving happen in Reykjavík. Never.” way? Why does he not chug more on ways questioned. I like that you can people to an unknown location is also the guitar?” It’s weird.” The object of surprise people. That’s really inspiring part of our hope for giving people some the performance rather is simply com- and that’s why I love performance.” adventures in their lives. Some people
Viking hotel Woolens factory store, Genuine woolen goods, Viking restaurants located in Vik ______made in Iceland Viking live entertainment Also wide selection Viking Souveniers of souvenirs
For booking and further information: Tel.: (+354) 565-1213 [email protected] - www.vikingvillage.is Strandgata 55 Hafnarfjordur Víkurprjón ehf Phone: 487-1250 www.vikwool.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 09 — 2010 31
Special | Best Of Reykjavík A Proper Haberdashery Herrafataverzlun Kormáks & Skjaldar keeps Reykjavík’s men lookin’ sharp
upon our visit, has been working there Herrafataverslun Kormáks og Skjaldar since the store re-opened in 2006. He Laugavegur 59, 101 says they now have a wide array of cus- tomers, from young men to older busi- nessman types. They’ve moved onto If you have been in Reykjavík for any selling nearly all first-wear clothing, significant amount of time, you may mostly imported garments from Italy have taken notice at how (some of the) and England, although they also carry men’s style is a cut above. Yes, some the local clothing line Farmer‘s Market. of them may be watching too much They also carry labels such as DNA and Mad Men (can you blame them?) but the Swedish brand Red Colour Project, most of them are just on board with who cross over classic menswear with classic, good quality style, and luckily modern elegance. Guðmundur says many places cater to that. The pioneer they have a lot of variety, from basic in bringing old-school Brit gentleman items to street wear and collections, charm to the streets of Reykjavík is but should be able to fit anyone’s bud- Herrafataverzlun Kormáks & Skjaldar, a get. veritable pot of gold of men‘s fashion. In addition to all the snazzy duds, Now tucked away in a basement they have a barbershop corner with a on Laugavegur, the shop was first hairdresser in for a few days a week. ENJOY opened by a pair of friends, Kormákur They have onsite tailoring for basic and Skjöldur, twelve years ago on changes on items they sell, as well Skólavörðustígur, where 12 Tónar now as for creating pieces for their online AND RELAX reside. Originally specialising in sec- store. Overall, they carry a huge selec- 1919 restaurant offer a new and very ond-hand items only, the store closed tion of great quality items for the well- exciting menu in a relaxed atmosphere down to much anguish in early 2001. groomed male and keep the Icelandic at a prime location. After a five-year hiatus, they opened guys that so choose looking well snaz- 1919 again at their current location down- zy. 5 course tasting menu: 5990,- RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE stairs from Bónus in the mini-mall on the main drag. Radisson Blu 1919 Hótel rebecca louder Guðmundur Jörundsson, the dapper Pósthússtræti 2 101 Reykjavík +345 599 1050 young gentleman behind the counter JULIA STAPLES
THAI RESTAURANT
OPENING HOURS Daily from Weekends from 11:30 - 20:30 11:30 - 20:30 Step into The exhibition and museum shop are open daily 10–17 PRICE AROUND the Viking Age Aðalstræti 16 1.100 - 1.400 ISK 101 Reykjavík / Iceland Experience Viking-Age Reykjavík at the Multimedia techniques bring Reykjavík’s Phone +(354) 411 6370 BIG PORTION www.reykjavikmuseum.is www.nudluhusid.is new Settlement Exhibition. The focus of the past to life, providing visitors with insights OVER exhibition is an excavated longhouse site which into how people lived in the Viking Age, and dates from the 10th century ad. It includes what the Reykjavík environment looked like relics of human habitation from about 871, the to the first settlers. 50 LAUGAVEGI 59 oldest such site found in Iceland. COURSES The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 09 — 2010 32
Comic | Hugleikur Dagsson S pecial | Best Of Reykjavík They’re Always Glad You Came Kaffibarinn still keeps kids of all ages happy
Kaffibarinn Andrés Magnússon in 1993 to open may have contributed to the popularity Bergstaðastræti 2, 101 up Kaffibarinn. After a few years, the the bar has gotten internationally, but place morphed into a bar and certain here at home their consistency has just elements changed. The place was ex- been about maintaining a good atmo- Standing high and proud on the panded, the kitchen was closed down, sphere and providing a good time for slope of Bergstaðastræti right above they changed their opening hours and all. That and selling shitloads of beer, Laugavegur, Kaffibarinn is one of the started having DJs spinning tracks, but the most popular of all beverages, our oldest bars in Reykjavík. And it has con- the general feel stayed true. staffer says. sistently stood the test of time which is, “The family, the party atmosphere Asking what sets them apart from well, unusual for Reykjavík bars. First that was formed in the first year has the rest, they boil it down to a rather opened as a coffee house—the name more or less stayed the same,” we are simple formula. “We try to stay a warm, translates simply as “The Coffee Bar”— told by a friendly staff member who friendly and fun place for our group of Kaffibarinn has evolved into being a wished to remain anonymous. Damon regulars while also being a welcoming well-reputed party spot amongst locals Albarn also owned a small stake in the to newcomers,” they say, “It’s about and visitors alike. Touted in all the guide bar for a short time, although our Kaf- generations of good staff and fun cus- books as the go-to bar for the drinking- fibarinn staffer tells us this was more tomers and top DJs who all know each minded folk, this is still a place based in ceremonial than anything else. “He other.” Indeed, whether it’s your first Art | Fart a strong family feel and a sense of real had 1% for sure,” says the staffer, “It’s time or hundredth time there, it really Reykjavík nightlife. probably one of the cheapest, most ac- feels like everybody knows your name. artFart Farts On After successfully opening the cidental and successful international clothing shop Frikki & Dýrið, Dýrleif marketing campaigns of all time.” We know that something brilliant is about to that involves taking the festival’s logo (a bi- rebecca louder happen in this city: artFart. cycle given flight by a bunch of balloons) and Örlygsdóttir and Friðrik Weisshap- This little bit of folklore, as well as Jói kjartans This year’s programme is being pencilled in as transforming it into reality, as we tie balloons pel teamed up with their good friend the well-travelled flick ‘101 Reykjavík,’ I type, and the ever-familiar feeling of enthu- to all of Reykjavík’s major city landmarks in siasm is infectious, as the artFart team scan the hope that we can make them fly; Forehead their eyes across the wealth of ambitious, tattoos—an activity that involves convincing Music | Album Reviews innovative and adventurous work being of- as many people in Reykjavík as possible to get fered up by both Icelandic and international ‘artFart’ tattooed on their face; flash mobs; artists—all now destined to form the building door knocking; writing a pop song (thank you blocks for the 2010 artFart programme. Best Party); hostage taking; setting off the Daði However, artists and their marvellous creativ- volcano; stopping the volcano; faking death. along the lines of Leonard Cohen ity is one thing—audiences are another. As There have been more, but frighteningly, it Self Portrait and Current 93 circa “All The Pretty the old saying goes—a tree that falls without has to be said, these were our best. So, we Little Horses.” So far, so folksy. But it´s being heard, does not make a sound—i.e. it is have some work to do, but you must keep dathi the lyrics that get you. While Ólafur Arnalds is melancholy and Hank & all very well and good that we are making a your eyes and ears peeled. You will know that Is there a bleaker album around this programme, but people need to know about our brainstorms did not develop any further if Tank is downbeat, this is midnight at it—and feel excited enough to get involved. In you see someone naked promoting this year’s year? Answers on a postcard ... the beach at Vik, bottle of vodka in this light, we at artFart must do more than just artFart. one hand, sleeping pills in the other, marvel at the endless reams of talent running FESTIVAL NEWSFLASH: artFart’s Reykjavík with Radiohead’s “Exit music” on the astray—we must give it a home, feed it well Public Space Programme is offering three To my knowledge, the only notable car stereo. It´s THAT depressing! And and make the news of artFart’s fifth arrival in Iceland-based artists the opportunity to take thing to have come from Dalvík song titles like My Misery, Just Like Reykjavík hit the headlines. part in a PAID residency here in Iceland. For recently is Friðrik Ómar, a poisoned Suicide and Goodbye Cruel World This has got the creative minds of artFart three weeks in August three artists will ex- pop dwarf whose music is the leave you in no doubt of its bleakness. inspired, as we seek to design some shame- plore different possibilities for contemporary equivalent of a dozen Care Bears But that doesn´t mean it´s depressing lessly attention-grabbing actions that will performance taking place in Public Spaces. vomiting onto the face of a small child. to listen to. In fact, I’d rather prefer serve to put this year’s festival in view. Ideas This unique and one-off opportunity is open But for every Ying, there must be a this acoustic honesty than 85% of that have surfaced so far include: The Na- to everyone and should not be missed. Yang. And that stinking monolith of ked Billboard—a naked man or woman tak- the smiley happy joy joy bollocks that Yang has arrived in the form of Daði. ing a stroll down Laugavegur each day—with Alexander Roberts passes for singer songwriting any day. that day’s schedule scrawled across their bare parts; The Balloon Canvas—an activity His music is a sparse, acoustic affair - bob cluness
Now offering catering service!
Enjoy the Moment
Open: Laugavegur 44 Mondays-Saturdays 11:30-22:30 Tel: 571 0210 www.diza.is Sundays 16:00-22:00 Joyful knitwear from Iceland HVÍTA HÚSIÐ / SÍA – 09–0223 Schola cantorumSchola Reykjavicencis the celebrated chamberchoir in July and august July and in Atnoon 12 HAllgrímskirkJA In WEdnESdAyS on concERtS LunchtIME Sponsors: hallgrímSkIrk ja 2010 ja hallgrímSkIrk International organ summer in Hallgrímskirkja 2010 International organ summerinHallgrímskirkja lækjarbrekka istheofficial restaurant ofthe lækjarbrekka q Alþjóðlegt orgelsumAr / InternAtIonAl orgAn summer Hallgrímskirkja, reykjavík, tel. reykjavík, 5101000 www.listvinafelag.is Hallgrímskirkja, summer orgAn InternAtIonAl / orgelsumAr Alþjóðlegt minutes. Disembark atthefirststopinKópavogur. by busS1orS2fromLækjargata orHlemmur,every20 Opening hours11-17(exceptMondays). Only10minutes schola Cantorumschola kammerkórinn the InternatIonal InternatIonal the Denmark Præstholm Christian 4at5pm July 3at12noon July England Dame gillian Weir 11at5pm July 10at12noon July Germany Cologne Cathedral Winfried Bönig 18at5pm July 17at12noon July Iceland Einarsdóttir guðný 25at5pm July 24at12noon July organ Summer Summer organ menntamálaráðuneytisins tónlistarsjóður
SUMMER EXHIBITIONS KÓPAVOGUR ARTMUSEUM june 5 - august 15 august - 5 june LunchtIME concERtS on on thuRSdAyS concERtS LunchtIME Atnoon 12 In August 12:Ágúst Ágústsson Ingi -Denmark ÞórunnElínPétursdóttir (soprano) August -Áskirkja 5:MagnúsRagnarsson Allansson -Grindavíkurkirkja July 29:Kári Sigurjónsdóttir(violin) Kristín July 22:Sveinn -Akraneskirkja Arnar Sæmundsson July 15:Sigrún MagnaÞórsteinsdóttir -Akureyrarkirkja -Denmark Eggertsdóttir July 8:Lára Bryndís Eygló Rúnarsdóttir(mezzo soprano) July 1:Friðrik Vignir Stefánsson -Seltjarnarneskirkja nordisk Kulturfond HAllgrímskirkJA hljóðfæraleikara Félag íslenskra embassy ofnorway august 7at12noon July 31at12noon July august 15at5pm Halgeir schiager august 1at5pm august 8at5pm embassy oftheFederal ofgermany republic steingrímur Þórhallsson kári Þormar v Pantone 287 at 12noon august 14 Norway Iceland Iceland r CMYK The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 09 — 2010 The Birds & Blue Waters day tour offered by Air Iceland is offered all summer until August 23, all days except Sunday and costs ¤ 270. 34 See www.airiceland.is for schedules and more action-packed trips.
Travel | West fjords Boats, Birds And Baked Goods On A Daytrip To Ísafjörður Hanging out in the water in the West fjords
the water, although it took some time to build up Museum bought it in 1996 and plans to restore speed. Haukur casually soared ahead pointing out it. We then walked further up the island to where various interesting things to draw our attention to. we could see a large area of puffin nests, which The views around us really were quite spec- they make by digging two metre wide holes in the tacular too. With the town now behind us, we were ground and hiding under there. They are quite staring right into the majesty of the fjord on a re- easy to step on so we didn’t venture further. markably clear and sunny day. I noticed a tunnel running through the mountains and Haukur told Kind of like that Alfred Hitchcock me there was a waterfall behind it, near their so- movie called forest. He drew our attention to a dip in the We returned down the island towards the home- mountain and told us it was what locals called a stead but people were dragging behind. Not all troll chair. “A long time ago a troll came here and the people in our tour group were so respectful sat in the mountain,” he mused, “but now trolls are about staying on the path and keeping together all extinct.” with the group, but Lára seemed extremely pa- He then pointed out to us a family of eider tient. My cohort and I were less so, as we were ducks taking their morning swim, but by the time standing there getting screamed at and threat- we noticed and caught up they were gone. Once ened by the arctic terns. The closer we got to our we made it to the half-way point in the fjord we next point of interest, the more upset they got and decided to go back the way we came instead of the lower they dipped towards us, no matter how going the full circle. While it is an easy enough hard we swatted at them with our little blue flags. activity, it does require endurance and ours was Not cool, man—bird—but they gotta protect their running thin. We got ourselves back to shore and eggs and all. thanked him. “I was really happy you came,” he This disturbance came to a peak at our next said, “or else I would have been stuck in the office stop, the Eiderduck Hotel. This was a low, stone all day. And it’s so nice out!” wall built by the farmer who inhabited the island Nothing starts the day like an early flight to what one can do to avoid that happening, but his 200 years ago. Little cubbies were built into the Ísafjörður. When my friend and I embarked upon answers were rather vague. “Usually it just hap- Another freaking boat!? wall at ground level making it ideal for eider ducks an action-packed day tour from the good people pens when people get distracted and start looking After a leisurely walk around town and a nice and guillemots to build their nests in peacefully. at Air Iceland, we discovered that taking a domes- at the birds and the mountains too much,” he said lunch at the catch-of-the-day summer restaurant We then headed to one of the farmhouses, where tic flight in Iceland is one of the most hilariously non-chalantly, “but it can really happen to anyone. Tjöruhúsið, we headed over to the harbour, where we were invited to have coffee and a variety of simple experiences out there. Maybe it’s because One of our guides flipped over yesterday because the second half of our day tour was to begin. We some of the most delicious baked goods I have international airports have become so infuriat- he was trying to do some fancy moves. Don’t try boarded a small tour boat with a handful of other ever sampled. After this perfect little repose, we ing and unpleasant, but being able to stroll up to to be a dancer.” Ironically, I learned how to kayak travellers and headed off to Vigur, a tiny island in made our final stop at the eiderdown factory- the counter 15 minutes before the flight, show no at ballet camp. the Ísafjarðardjúp fjord with more birds than peo- slash-smallest post office in Iceland. The farmers identification and undergo no security measures Once we got our gear on, we headed down to ple. After a slightly jumpy boat ride where I got on the island make their main living by selling the was completely delightful. And then you get to fly the tip of the spit of land the town is located to our completely sprayed by seawater while overzeal- down to make some of the most luxuriously soft into the West fjords, which need to be seen from kayaking launch point. This was set amongst some ously leaning out to see the fjord, we arrived at a pillows and blankets available, and after feeling the sky, I highly recommend it. It’s fantastic. of the oldest timber frame houses in Iceland, built really old-looking dock. the freshly cleaned eiderdown, I badly want a new Pretty soon after landing, we found ourselves between 1734 and 1761, and truly gave us a sense Before stepping onto the island officially, our duvet! standing in the back of the Vesturferðir travel of time travelling. Being only two people going on guide Lára instructed us to stay close together and We then boarded our tour boat again to take us company’s cosy log cabin, trying to squeeze our- the tour today, we gladly lent a hand to Haukur to not stray far from the group. The island is privately back to the mainland, where we would fly home. selves into waterproof pants one size too small. carry the kayaks down to the shore, their front tips owned by one family of farmers who have lived Between the cakes and the thought of new pil- Our extremely friendly guide for the day, the na- barely resting in the water. We were then given a there for many generations, and we were there at lows, my cohort and I both fell into deep, dreamy tive Haukur, was about to take us on a nice kayak quick paddling lesson and rescue instructions if the peak of nesting season for the eider ducks, naps as we floated along the now peaceful waters tour around the fjord. The prospect of kayaking the unthinkable flipping over should happen, got arctic terns, guillemots and puffins that inhabit the of the West fjords. in the West fjords originally seemed daunting to our foot rests adjusted and then pushed into the island. This made walking around a rather delicate my cohort and I, although I had kayaked once a water. affair as we tried to avoid stepping on bird eggs, very long time ago. But upon arriving in Ísafjörður meanwhile waving blue flags on sticks to keep the and seeing the calm, protected waters of the fjord, Easier than canoeing crazy arctic terns at bay. we were feeling pretty good about it. We just kept Let me get right to the point: kayaking is fun. The The tour of the island was shorter than usual hoping we didn’t flip over. kayak is a perfect individual sport since it is simple due to nesting season, but we saw a lot nonethe- enough to learn in a short time and does not re- less. We began at the one and only windmill in Everyone does it quire an impressive physical disposition. My co- Iceland, built in 1830. It was used to grind corn Rbeccae louder I asked Haukur how flipping over happens and hort quickly learned how to manoeuvre herself in erm m ye yildiz meal until it went out of use in 1917. The National
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BOLUNGARVÍK DRANGAJÖKULL ÞÓRSHÖFN ÍSAFJÖRÐUR SIGLUFJÖRÐUR HÚSAVÍK HRÍSEY VOPNAFJÖRÐUR Krafla
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Special | Best Of Reykjavík Special | Best Of Reykjavík The Best Scoop Around Coffee Pioneers In 101 Reykjavík’s Tastiest Ice Cream Reykjavík’s Original Café
Mokka Skólavörðustíg 3A, 101
Mokka, founded in 1958, is one of Reykjavík’s oldest coffeehouses. When asked why they think it’s stuck around for so long, the proprietors answered “Because it’s never changed.” Truer words were never spoken. Mokka’s interior is shockingly similar to what it must have looked like decades ago, when the first Italian espresso machine in Iceland made its home on Mokka’s counter. Strong, Italian coffee is something that sets this cozy coffeehouse apart from its other downtown counterparts. in an array of flavours, the most popu- As does some delicious, Belgian- Ísbúðin Ísland lar being coconut with chocolate chip, style waffles that are always great for Stigahlíð 45-47, 105 strawberry skyr (made with real skyr. brunch. Mokka also offers regular ex- And strawberries, of course), and beer hibits from some local, Icelandic artists. Ísbúðin Ísland only recently joined the (yes, it DOES taste like beer). Stand-by This comfy, Reykjavík staple offers a crowd of ice cream stores dishing out flavours like chocolate, vanilla, choco- nice atmosphere, rich coffee, and some cold creamy goodness to Reykjavík late-liquorice, and caramel are always serious nostalgia. It is a true 101 insti- residents. Opening its doors in January, in stock. This tasty treat is also avail- tution. Ísland is pretty new, but unknown it is able in boxes to take home. not. This excellent, little ice cream shop Ísbúðin Ísland offers a variety of fro- has been making quite a name for itself. zen treats for every customer. If you’re In fact, it scored our ‘Best ice cream’ jonesing for a sugar fix, you can find award’! all the traditional candy toppings, dips, Owner Hlédís Sveinsdóttir sells and sauces. If healthy and refreshing specialty ice cream that she procures is more to your taste, there’s a variety straight from farms around the country. of skyr and yogurt based ice creams Growing up on a farm herself, Hlédís as well as fresh strawberries, rhubarb allison savage understands where ice cream comes pieces, and agave and dandelion syr- JULIA STAPLES from, and wants others to appreciate ups to top it off. They also stock a good the work that many cows and farmers assortment of organic yogurt products put in to each scoop. and old Icelandic skyr. Special | Best Of Reykjavík: Locals Her shop, located right across the If you’re looking for some delicious, street from Kringlan, sells this special filling ice cream straight from the farm, Fantastic Flóra farm-made ice cream, called Holtsel af- look no further than Ísland. This awe- Ólöf Arnalds, musician ter the farm where it’s produced. Ísland some little shop will fulfil each and ev- also offer the regular scoop and soft ery one of your ice cream needs. While serve stuff from Kjörís, but Holtsel is it may cost a few krónur more than that "One of my favourite places in town is formation down at the harbour these really why you should pay Ísland a visit. boring soft serve stuff, your tummy will Café Flóra in the Laugardalur Botani- days, that started with Sægreifinn but Ringing up at 420 ISK a scoop, it’s for- thank you. cal Gardens. It's incredibly restful to has now turned into a cluster of restau- tunate that most people tell Hlédís they sit down there and enjoy some coffee rants and shops." . only need one scoop to feel full. allison savage surrounded by plants and goldfish. I am Ísland serves up scoops of Holtsel JULIA STAPLES also very happy with the area that's in
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BOLUNGARVÍK DRANGAJÖKULL ÞÓRSHÖFN ÍSAFJÖRÐUR SIGLUFJÖRÐUR HÚSAVÍK HRÍSEY VOPNAFJÖRÐUR Krafla
BLÖNDUÓS AKUREYRI
FLATEY EGILSSTAÐIR NESKAUPSTAÐUR
Hallormstaður
Always best price online. STYKKISHÓLMUR Kárahnjúkar SNÆFELLSJÖKULL
ILULISSAT Greenland
CONSTABLE POINT BORGARNES Various online-offers to all Air Iceland's destinations. Greenland KULUSUK Greenland Gullfoss AKRANES Geysir NUUK Greenland REYKJAVÍK NARSARSSUAQ SIA.IS FLU 47569 10/2009 Greenland KEFLAVÍK Jökullónið
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Special | Best Of Reykjavík Special | Best Of Reykjavík Veggin' Out For 35 Giving Reykjavík The Kick It Deserves Years Austur-Indía félagið is a Reykjavík gem Mouth-watering, meatless food since 1975
Austur-Indía félagið Hverfisgata 56, 101
Sixteen years ago Reykjavík's food pal- ette lacked seasoning and spice. It was a time where the average Icelander had tried almost every fruit on its waning tree and was in dire need of some taste bud rejuvenation. Luckily, Austur-Indía félagið came to the rescue bearing ex- otic spices and Eastern recipes. Since Á Næstu Grösum vegetarian dishes into their diet, but then, they’ve loyally fed our addiction Laugavegur 20b, 101 do not consider themselves strict veg- for aromatic Indian cuisine—and they etarians,” she remarks. “Before people never fail! thought you had to be a vegetarian to The food is praised for its fusion Á Næstu Grösum started serving deli- go into a vegetarian restaurant. Now of exotic spices with the natural and cious veggie food on Laugavegur way that attitude has changed.” freshest of Icelandic ingredients. The back in 1975. The idea behind the When the crisis hit in 2008, a lot of veg- chefs and spices that make up Austur- restaurant was to serve healthy veg- etables were even more difficult to im- Indía's signature flavour have ventured value,” explains Chandrika Gunnarson, restaurant's lifespan, and I'm still not etarian food using ingredients in their port. Dóra says that Á Næstu Grösum here from all over India, and the result one of the restaurant’s founders. “Even bored.” purest form. Since opening, they have is doing pretty well for a vegetarian embraces the taste of its most familiar after the financial crash, when restau- From dining celebrities, politicians been serving up a damn fine selection restaurant located in the Arctic Circle. and remote regions. It is the epitome of rants and businesses were raising their to students, Austur-Indía félagið em- of meat-free dishes to Reykjavík’s veg- “Even though there isn’t a lot of variety, an authentic dining experience. prices, we didn't. We were willing to phasises an atmosphere where your gie minded. But it wasn’t always green the Icelandic vegetables are in pretty Apart from supplying us with vi- take some of the hit because we knew average Joe can show up in his t-shirt gold. good quality when they’re in season.” brant and fragrant flavours, Austur- everybody else was.” and jeans and enjoy the comfortable, Dóra Svavarsdóttir, chef and owner of Á Dóra explains that the farmers in Ice- Indía has also been a great influence Chandrika illustrates that they key unpretentious and down to earth ambi- Næstu Grösum, says there were a lot of land have been growing a lot of toma- on Reykjavík's approach to foreign to their success is not only because ance. So loosen that waistbelt and go challenges in the beginning. “The local toes and cucumbers. “There is just one food and culture. Since the day we've of their excellent quality food but the fill yourself silly with some of Reykja- produce in Iceland is limited and very zucchini farmer,” she says. “There are a been blessed with its presence, ethnic treatment of their customers. “We like vík’s best cuisine. seasonal,” she told us, “We have to im- lot of things that are not available here restaurants have been sprouting up to treat them as guests and making port everything. It’s a constant struggle that people who travel are used too. all over town. However, while many of them number one is our priority. It's a with the budget.” When asked whether That is or biggest challenge.” them wither away, Austur-Indía has re- simple philosophy and doesn't take a she thought the vegetarian population Á Næstu Grösum truly remains one of mained an unmoveable rock in the res- genius to figure out, but it does to put it in Reykjavík is growing, Dóra told us Reykjavík’s best places to veg out. taurant industry and is one of the city’s into daily practise.” her customer base is growing, but not most dependable restaurants. “Customers return knowing they're necessarily the number of vegetarians. emil urtony b “We've never forgotten to offer going to get great quality food and alendraxa young “A lot of people are starting to include JULIA STAPLES quality and consistency for the right leave satisfied. I've eaten there for the JULIA STAPLES
SUPER JEEP & SNOWMOBILE TOURS Mountaineers of Iceland • Skútuvogur 12E • 104 Reykjavík • Iceland Telephone: +354 580 9900 [email protected] • www.mountaineers.is • www. activity.is The Reykjavík Grapevine Issue 09 — 2010 37
News | Kreppa In The International Eye: June Saga of Sagas: Bang For The Buck
When Glitnir went into a tailspin in Sep- tember 2008 no one could have dared imagine—not even in their worst night- mares—how mad things would get. A mere one and a half years later, Iceland is a nation beyond nervous breakdown. This inconceivable chain-of-events has most of us endlessly shaking our heads, much like those bouncing- head-dolls glued on the dashboard of Hong Kong taxis. Speculations that Icelandic banks, Landsbanki in particular, were the ve- hicle for Russian mafia money-laundry, and that Kaupthing funds were being used to manipulate credit derivatives, are now under serious fraud inves- official knot minutes after the bill for sets.” Secondly, the whirlwind of the tigation across the Western banking same-sex-marriage is passed. Priori- market “forces CEOs of major banks to world. Guardian reporter Simon Bow- ties, priorities. Congratulations, by the push fractional reserves to their limits.” ers points out that “the German bank way. Thirdly, “an absurd accounting regime [Deutsche Bank] had been offering Gordon Kerr, investment banker and encourages banks to transfer as much Kaupthing advice on how to influence specialist in sovereign debt syndicates, exposure as possible into derivates.” CDS [credit default swaps] price on delivered an enlightening address to Fourthly, and probably most important- Kaupthing bonds from early 2008.” the European parliament in March. ly for taxpayers: “Depositors’ money As suggested by the Icelandic Truth The address was recently made public belongs in law to the bank, not to the Commission, it becomes clearer and online and notes the roots of Iceland’s depositors” themselves. This gives the clearer that the bank’s management banking problem as threefold. The gist bank a free reign. And fifthly, and per- was entangled in desperate measures of it is thus: haps most strangely, due to “the Euro- to pay up long-term debts. It begins to pean Central Bank’s discount window, look as if outsiders with the upper hand 1. Iceland is too small a nation to be an banks are allowed to purchase assets were quietly reaping the rewards to active participant on the international post crisis,” which motivates them to the detriment of Icelandic banks—and banking scene. “monetise unrealised future profits.” their guarantors: Icelandic taxpayers. 2. During the boom years all the Ice- Finally, Kerr says: “…if the Icelandic A leaked letter from Sigurður Einars- landic banks sought extremely aggres- people did not understand what was son, Kaupthing’s chair’s desk (the one sive (perhaps) unsubstantiated growth. going on, are the actions of [Britain now wanted by Interpol), stated: “…the 3. The foolhardy (sic) Icelandic banks and the Netherlands] not akin to luring bank cannot buy CDSs on itself. There- sought acceptance by the Western reg- the demented old lady next door into fore [we] resorted to getting clients we ulatory regime by any means possible leaving you her house in her will and trusted well and had long-standing re- thereby disinheriting her children?” lations with, based on trust and loyalty Kerr goes on to explain that Western ‘Icesave’ is now bantered around like to engage in these transactions on be- politicians have been (and still are) a four-letter-word. It is a known entity. half of the bank…” “blissfully ignorant” of the “blips on But, I wonder when the general public Of course, we all know that 90% their radar screens.” In summary, he is finally made aware of the true extent of the iceberg is not visible above the explains that the Western banking of the Icelandic banks’ debts, if there water line, and such it is with what is system and accounting regime has en- will not be another eruption of gargan- left of this deeply mired investigation: couraged a system whereby the global tuan scale. former bank managers on the run from credit crunch was inevitable. The rea- the law, once-oligarchs, still oligarchs, sons are as follows: Firstly, one “can- still reaping rewards on the back of the not divorce the independent valuation troubled Icelandic nation. Meanwhile, of assets from the quantity of debt the Prime Minister of Iceland ties the banks are willing to issue against as- MrcVncenza i
Special | Best Of Reykjavík: Locals Easy Swimming Þorvaldur Þór Þorvaldsson
Best café? Kaffitár. They have consis- Favourite swimming pool? In Selt- tently great coffee and food. I recom- jarnarnes. It's the easiest place to swim mend the bagel with hummus, olives, because the water is often overflowing feta and cheese. so it pushes you along. I like the lounge Best place to grab a bite? Austur- pool also. Indía Félagið. Best Indian restaurant Best kept secret? At Grótta by the around. Actually, in the world. I recom- lighthouse, there is a hole in the ground mend the lobster appetiser with the with hot water in all year round. A great salmon entrée. place to soak your feet and look at the Best bar? Boston. The music's not too beautiful view. loud, just at the right volume so you can talk with your friends.
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Books | Review Opinion | Rebecca Louder
Here is a short book, available only in electronic One is whether it's OK to read the book, then Living Inside the Meltdown format, which presents eight interviews with ten pass it on to someone else and delete it from your The Art Of Sleep by Alda Sigmundsdóttir people who tell their story of Iceland's economic computer. Alda doesn't give any clear guidance on The most underrated collapse. We meet a couple who made some unfor- this, but I'd say yes (as long as you really do delete it Self-published. Available from activity in Iceland www.icelandweatherreport.com tunate real estate transactions, a student who was from your computer), along the same lines as that abroad during the collapse, a policeman who served it's OK to resell a regular old paper book after you As I walk to work every morning, I during the demonstrations at parliament in Janu- read it. never cease to be amused by the ary 2009, a half-Icelandic couple who moved back Another is that this book contains 91 pages of people on Laugavegur. There are in 2007, two Portuguese immigrants, the owner of text, which means it's priced at $0.27 per page. two kinds, really. First there are the a small import business, a retired building supplies That's a lot, especially when you consider that lon- people who clearly live here, who are going to wholesaler, and an investment advisor at Íslands- ger e-books sell for $10 on Amazon and you can buy work, walking at a steady pace with a cigarette banki (a.k.a. Glitnir). a good song online (and play it over and over) for or coffee. Typical. You can read this book in an hour or so. The in- less than a dollar. One wants Alda to be compen- Then you have the group of North Face-clad, terviews are interesting, though short. Icelanders sated for her efforts, which are valiant and sincere. up-and-at-‘em camera-clutchers who really are often more open in print than they would be in But people who are already overwhelmed with con- want to get a head start on their day. Invariably, person. You won't get a detailed sense of Iceland's tent, much of it free (including the nine volumes they wind up looking completely befuddled economic breakdown from this book but you will on the economic collapse from the government's and dismayed at the lack of anything being get an impression. truth commission) need a very compelling reason open at the crack of 9:30. That’s what nobody Alda Sigmundsdóttir took and edited the inter- to justify spending twenty-five bucks on even a very tells you before coming here: everything starts views and writes a brief introduction. For the last sincerely produced ninety-one page PDF. really, really late! Stores don’t open before 10, few years she has run a fine blog called the Iceland I wonder if Alda could do as well or better by at the earliest, and most restaurants only start Weather Report, which makes good reading for reducing the price to well under $10 and using a polishing the silverwear around 11. Unless these those looking for updates about Iceland in English. sales portal like lulu.com that would allow her to of- tourists have an early morning day trip booked The book isn't available in print and doesn't fer the book in paper form as well. As is, I think Liv- or are only coming back from last night’s party, have an ISBN number, but you can buy it (which ing Inside the Meltdown just costs too much. That they should still be in bed. means, get a URL which lets you download it as a isn't a judgement about Alda's skills as a writer and A good friend recently came to visit me on PDF) from her blog website for $24.99. Alda makes editor, but rather a reminder of how complicated it her two-week long vacation from work. She had a plea on the website and in the book to respect her is to find workable publishing models in the age of no particular plans for her stay here and just copyright and not read bootleg copies of the PDF. the Internet. nWtson- Ia a wanted to experience life in the city and take in This is all good, but it raises a few issues. some of the natural beauty of the countryside. While I would get up early and head down to work, she was still sleeping like a cat on opium Poetry | Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl on the couch. For the first few days of her visit, she shamefully admitted that she kept sleeping until noon. She also quickly realised that walking around the city in the morning was essentially Cotery Poelumn: Pwoermds pointless, since there is pretty much nothing to do. I thought this was a perfectly reasonable, It’s a poetic mouthful—a hard-to-per- Review in 1965 and in 1969 it was included in mds they all seem very interesting at first, but considering it’s rare that she could sleep in on form sound poem in its own right— the second volume of The American Literary the more you read the higher your standards a Monday, Tuesday AND Wednesday in a row. I “pwoermd”. When you Google it the Anthology—whereupon the National Endow- become and the more it takes to surprise you, to was completely jealous. machine asks if you meant “power- ment for the Arts (NEA) awarded it the same create that prodigious instant which blows you And what better way to spend ones vacation mad” and you’re half inclined to say “yes I am, sum as any other poem in the book: 750 dollars. away and leaves you “discombobulated”. Which really? Many cultures regard sleep as a flagrant what are you gonna do about it?” Which makes about 5,200 dollars at current val- incidentally is a “normal word”—a nwoorr- indulgence that flouts convention and shows a ue (104,000 times what I make per word). For a madl—and not a pwoermd. lack of responsibility or work ethic. To this I say beautyfault (Karri Kokko) single poem. Consisting of a single word. boo-urns! Sleep is a vital function that allows the body to regenerate and the mind to defragment, fjshjng (Geof Huth) allowing a person to be happier and more breathrough (Christopher Rizzo) Whoa! productive in their waking life. Most of us, with llyllylly (mIEKAL aND & Geof Huth) our fast-paced, overworked lives, would not turn eyeye (Aram Saroyan) Taxpayers were incensed. The government could down an extra few hours of sleep each night. not afford to cut taxes but they could afford to Why shouldn’t we then qualify unrestricted It’s the new new in poetry. The new black. Yet pay beatnik weirdos exorbitant amounts of mon- sleep as a legitimate form of vacationing? since poetry, like infants, needs an entire child- ey for writing one word “and not even spelling There is so much pressure whenever you go hood and adolescence before reaching young it right”? The American right—congressmen, on a holiday to “make the most” of the time at adulthood—the mere concept is already 23 years voters and bureaucrats—had a full-on hissy-fit, your destination—meaning get your lazy bum out old (whereas, per usual, the practice is as old as with mailbags upon mailbags of rage arriving of bed—but this might be the only little time you language itself—in fact, it’s probably how lan- in Washington. The NEA was made to answer get off work all year to rest and recuperate. The guage was made). Coined in 1987 by entrepo- on Capitol Hill, the Republican Party used the fact that everything opens so late in this country eteur Geof Huth, “pwoermd” is a combination opportunity to squeeze the NEA and as late as permits one to turn off their alarm and get some extra sleep, guilt free. While some visitors may (obviously!) of the two four-letter words “poem” 1981 Ronald Reagan was still citing Saroyan’s p find Reykjavík’s lack of punctuality a frustrating and “word”. oem as a reason for the abolition of government cock-block to their travel plans, I suggest they One of the first instances of public notoriety funding for the arts. try to appreciate the alternative. for pwoermds—the “obscenity trial” that made The shortest poem I know is Steve McCaffery’s ‘em famous (with no tabloid interest since the “William Tell: A Novel”. It is simply a lowercase 1800s, poetry wouldn’t have survived without its “i” with an extra dot over the dot. According to obscenity trials)—was when Aram Saroyan (son the Guinness Book of World Records, however, of William) typed the infamous “lighght.” Sa- the shortest poem is one by Charles Chigna en- royan was a 22 year old fan of dada and concrete titled “I” (uppercase)—which goes “Why?” But poetry and had started working on one-word po- neither constitutes a pwoermd as they are both ems that, instead of requiring a “reading proc- dependent on their titles—and are thereby a ess,” simply happened in an instant, a single process and not an instant. moment. No subject-verb-object; no meenie, Like writing any poetry, writing pwoermds minie, moe; no ifs or buts or even abouts. is basically easy while writing good pwoermds Lighght was first published in The Chicago is somehow miraculous. To a reader of pwoer-
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KRINGLAN · 591-5320 · WWW.SKIFAN.IS Y our eSSEntial guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland BEST OF THE BEST ISSUE 09 YOUR FREE COPY
Page 6 "We are owned from within, and the irony with which this man stands on his soap box after being replaced at the national newspaper by one of the most deplorable members of team 'let's-fuck-Iceland' would be hilarious were it not so nauseating. And this is the problem; the majority of the population thinks it’s ok that Davíð Oddsson is now controlling a once respected media source largely because he is an "Icelander."" - Ben Frost takes on Styrmir Gunnarsson's anti-EU joining stance
Page 6 “Well, since Mr. van Vliet seems fond of profanity laced discourse, I shall reply in kind. Not...a...fucking... chance. Are you seriously trying to suggest that people with multiple and profound physical and/or intel- lectual disabilities living in institu- tionalised or semi-institutionalised situations share one iota of responsi- bility in this? That their services and support systems that are now under threat is not problematic because it is part of their ‘collective respon- sibility’ of their happening to live in Iceland? Please.” - Grapevine’s proofreader Jim Rice responds to Vooral van Vliet’s Isesave issues
Page 14 “It was too hot and humid, riding the tube was like being a tapeworm in Satan’s colon, and the beer in pubs was just as expensive as Iceland! In the end my stress levels were so high I almost punched a granny in the face because her dog looked at me funny.” - Bob Cluness learns the valuable lesson that you can never go home again
Page 22 “There were no ‘disco freaks’ at Safarí, however, just hip people from the Rokk í Reykjavík era, now gone all ‘new romantic,’ dancing endlessly to The B52s’ ‘Rock Lobster,’ or so it seems in my Alzheimer-lite version of the place.” Rafting Canoeing Sightseeing Super-Jeep Whale Watch Horse Riding ATV Snowmobile - A trip down memory lane with Dr. Gunni’s favourite concert venues over the years