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Minus 148 Degrees: First Winter Ascent of Mount Mckinley Free FREE MINUS 148 DEGREES: FIRST WINTER ASCENT OF MOUNT MCKINLEY PDF Art Davidson | 256 pages | 31 May 2013 | Mountaineers Books | 9781594857553 | English | Seattle, United States Minus Degrees: First Winter Ascent of Mt. McKinley - Art Davidson - Google книги Sixteen people have summited Denali in winter. Six deaths have resulted from these attempts. Climbers: Alaskans Art Davidson, Dave Johnston and Ray Genet became the first to set foot on McKinley's summit in winter as defined from winter Minus 148 Degrees: First Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley to spring equinox. One climber on their international eight-man team lost his life in a crevasse fall. The three summitteers were given up for dead when they tucked themselves for six days into a snowcave about the size of a three-man coffin. All three suffered extensive frostbite. Davidson's account, ''Minus Minus 148 Degrees: First Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley, '' is a mountaineering classic. Climbers: Mike Young and Roger Mear reached the summit while their partner, author Jonathan Waterman, crawled to within a few hundred feet of the top in the first winter ascent of the long and difficult Cassin Ridge. Climbers: Charles Sassara, 26, and Robert Frank, 38, were the only ones on a four-man Anchorage team to reach the summit. Frank fell to his death on the descent. None of the party had ever climbed McKinley before. Among Minus 148 Degrees: First Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley memories almost 15 years later: ''What's special about the winter is the sky — you get the stars. They rotate around the summit the whole time, '' Sassara said. Climbers: Naomi Uemura, an experienced adventurer and Japanese national hero, reached the top on his 43rd birthday, the first to solo Denali in winter. His diet consisted of raw caribou and seal fat. Although he died on the way down — likely slipping off the West Buttress ridge between 17, and 16, feet — Denali National Park's mountaineering rangers credit him with an ascent. His body remains somewhere on the mountain. Climbers: Vern Tejas, 35, of Anchorage, a veteran McKinley guide, topped out after a month of being alone on the peak. He returned safely to a hero's welcome and exuberant celebrations in Anchorage -- and credit for making the first successful solo ascent. Climbers: Austrians Helmut Steinmassl, 29; Helmut Mittermayr, 20, and Laserer Walder, 27, were one of two teams climbing the peak simultaneously and the only one to succeed. Days after they Minus 148 Degrees: First Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley, three Japanese climbers got nabbed by a storm at 18,foot Denali Pass and were blown off the pass to their deaths. Their bodies, ''flash-frozen, '' according to a Denali ranger, were recovered months later. Climbers: Dave Staeheli, 33, of Anchorage was, like Tejas, a professional mountain guide. As a series of violent storms blew over Denali, Staeheli hunkered low and waited. He made the top and returned. Climbers: Russians Artur Testov, 32, and Vladimir Ananich, 40, become the first to stand on the top of McKinley in ''the dead of winter. They are also the first to videotape a winter ascent of Denali. A first try at a mid-winter climb in by Testov and another man failed around 12, feet. Climber: Masatoshi Kuriaki, the self-dubbed "Japanese Caribou," became the first man from his country to make a solo summit in the winter — and return safely. InKuriaki became the first person to make a solo summit of 17,foot Mount Foraker in the winter. Subscribe Customer Service. All content. Alaska News Earthquake. Alaska Life We Alaskans. Alaska Marijuana News. Arts and Entertainment Books. Opinions Editorials. Politics The Trail. Sports High School Sports. Special Sections Back to school. Visual Stories Videos. Events Best of Alaska. Alaska Visitors Guide. Contests Breast Cancer Awareness Trivia. ADN Store. Marketplace Classifieds. Contact Us. Sponsored Content Advertorial. Alaska News. Alaska Life. Arts and Entertainment. Special Sections. Visual Stories. Sponsored Content. Share on Facebook. Share on Twitter. Share via Email. Share on Tumblr. Share on Reddit. Share on LinkedIn. Share on Google Plus. Print article. Date on Summit: Feb. Amount of sunlight in the Denali region: 10 hrs, 7mins. Date on Summit: March 7, Amount of sunlight in the Denali region: 10 hrs, 52 mins. Date on Summit: March 11, Amount of sunlight in the Denali region: 11 hrs, 18 mins. Amount of sunlight in the Denali region: 8 hrs, 24 mins. Date on Summit: March 7, Amount of sunlight in the Denali region: 9 hrs, 16 mins. Date on Summit: Jan. Amount of sunlight in the Denali region: 5 hrs, 41 mins. Amount of sunlight in the Denali region: 10 hours, 58 minutes. Minus Degrees by Art Davidson North American terrestrial ceiling, taken June 4th around 4pm afer 12 days on the mountain. Foraker and Kahiltna Dome as a storm approaches. Pain, I came to feel, might well prove to be the sole proof of the persistence of consciousness within the flesh, the sole physical expression of consciousness. As my body acquired Minus 148 Degrees: First Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley, and in turn strength, there was gradually born within me the tendency towards positive acceptance of pain, and Minus 148 Degrees: First Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley interest in physical suffering deepened. I was forced to admit that on this, my first trip to Denali, I too had grossly underestimated the mountain. On a good day, you can revel in a three- mile drop to the tundra below—a greater drop than most Himalayan giants. Or Minus 148 Degrees: First Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley can look east and see Mount Sanford, more Minus 148 Degrees: First Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley miles away. Or you can meet legendary international mountaineers stumbling down after having suffered up high. I asked one of the doctors, Howard Donner, why they volunteered to spend their summers toiling in such a godforsaken place. The scale of these Alaskan peaks offer a plethora of photo- opportunities for depicting the insignificance of man against the grandeur of nature. Minus 148 Degrees: First Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley skin knew only above zero degree temps. How would my body react at over 20, feet in the arctic cold? As low as 10,ft I can easily get AMS-like symptoms. Denali could be 21 days. So yes, Denali would be different. A hot shower and a Chipotle burrito would no longer be days away. I was going to be climbing in storms. I was going to cook messy meals with messy pans and fickle white gas stoves. I was going to be pulling heavy sleds in addition to carrying a big backpack across heavily crevassed, icy terrain. I was going to have to deal with 5 other people. For up to three weeks. In tight quarters. I backed off a Mt. Still, I was really excited to test myself. Mark and I cackle as Scott lambastes a slightly overweight mountaineer starting up the West Buttress. I even took a weeklong ice climbing class five years ago—immediately after climbing Rainier for my first time—to set the West Rib stage. If I could survive the West Buttress, then I could take on more technically challenging routes—at altitude—in these harsher environments. Also I was generously invited by a friend and his buddies to do the West Buttress route, not the West Rib. Sometimes you just have to take the opportunities that present themselves. Getting on the Disappointment Cleaver at around 11,ft is a great example: One wrong step can kill you. This is especially true if someone had tied your bootlaces together at the Ingraham Flats camp as a prank. Jon Krakauer attempted it unsuccessfully in The West Buttress of McKinley, it is often said, has all the technical challenges of a long walk in the snow. From 16, feet to 17, feet, for instance, the route follows the crest of a Minus 148 Degrees: First Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley ridge that presents a two-thousand-foot drop on one side and a three-thousand-foot drop on the other. Furthermore, even the flattest, most benign-looking terrain can be riddled Minus 148 Degrees: First Winter Ascent of Mount McKinley hidden crevasses, many of which are big enough to swallow a Greyhound bus, no problem. Plenty challenging for the likes of me, it transpired. I was continually miserable, and frequently on the brink of disaster. My tent was starting to shred even in the relative calm at 14, The unceasing cold caused my lips and fingers to crack and bleed; my feet were always numb. At night, even wearing every article of clothing I had, it was impossible to stave off violent shivering attacks. Condensed breath would build up an inch of frost on the inside of my tent, creating an ongoing indoor blizzard as the gossamer nylon walls rattled in the wind. Anything not stowed inside my sleeping bag-camera, sunscreen, water bottles, stove-would freeze into a useless, brittle brick. My stove did in fact self-destruct from the cold early in the trip; had a kind soul named Brian Sullivan not taken pity on me and lent me his spare, I would-as Dick Danger so eloquently put it-have been in deep shit. Lionel Terray—for example—died guiding a 5. Mugs Stumps—Alaskan climbing legend—died falling into a crevasse on lower angle terrain. This is after he climbed some of the harder routes in the Alaska Range. The combined effect of cold, wind, and altitude may well present one of the most hostile climates on Earth.
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