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Reminiscences of the Lews; Or, Twenty Years' Wild Sport in the Hebrides

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Reminiscences of the Lews; Or, Twenty Years' Wild Sport in the Hebrides UC-NRLF $B 755 711 GIFT OF Miss e.t/w ... ,':^i i 'm. J REMINISCENCES OF THE LEWS; OR, TWENTY YEAES' WILD SPOET IN THE HEBRIDES. BY "SIXTY-ONE." Hitl] |0rtrait oi t^e %kA\ox ml %lMtxi&im%. SECOND EDITION LONDON: BICKEES & SON, 1, LEICESTEE SQUAEE, W.C. 1873. iAU Rights Reserved.] D ^^^^^ >^ \x^ •i • c/ ERRATA ige 15, TO FREDERICK MILBANK, ESQ., M.P. MY DEAE FEED, Primus inter primos in all Noble Sport, to you 1 dedicate tliese Reminiscences, in memory of the happy days spent with you and yours in the Lews. "SIXTY-ONE." CONTENTS. -•o«- CHAPTER I. INTEODTJOTORY Fage 1 CHAPTER II. PEOSPECTING THE LEWS AND THE CALLERNISH INN 10 CHAPTER III. ALINE 23 CHAPTER lY. THE HAEEIS LOCHS AND A WOED ABOUT DOG- EEAEING 36 CHAPTER Y. OUE FEED AND HIS HEAD NUESE 49 CHAPTER YI. OUR FIRM AND THE WHALES &7 CHAPTER YII. SOVAL SHOOTING AND OLD TOM's PEDIGREE... 80 VI CONTENTS. ' CHAPTER YIII. SOVAL FISHING AND AETIFICIAL SPATES ... Page 97 CHAPTER IX. LOCH TRIALAYAL AND THE YOUNG GEESE ... 115 CHAPTER X. DICK BUKNABT AND GROUSE THE FIRST 126 CHAPTER XI. DEAR OLD SHIPPY 137 CHAPTER Xir. SETTERS AND WET CRAWLS 148 CHAPTER XIII. A TAME STAG 163 CHAPTER XIY. THE WOODCOCK AND HIS WAYS, AND SHOOTING HIM IN THE OPEN 170 CHAPTER XV. WOODCOCKS AGAIN 187 CHAPTER XYI. LEWS CLIMATE AND MIDGES 192 CONTENTS. VU CHAPTEE XYII. STOENOWAY Page 199 CHAPTER XYIII. SUPEESTITIONS 222 CHAPTER XIX. m^aulay's stoeies 233 CHAPTER XX. MY FIEST WILD BOAE 243 CHAPTER XXI. THE LATE DUKE OF ST. SIMON 260 CHAPTER XXII. CONCLUSION 264 TWENTY YEARS^ REMINISCENCES OF THE LEWS. CHAPTER I. INTRODUCTORY. SO it's all over; and, like the M'Gregor, ANDI am landless — or, rather, shooting- qnarterless. I must bid adieu to the home of twenty years, to seek another, and begin the world again—old, worn out almost, but tough still. They might as well have let me linger out the two or three years the old legs would have carried me still, and left me and my doggies in peace. But that was not to be. I had spent years in turning a bad shooting into a I tried good one ; had to civilise, as much as in my power lay, the district in which I lived. I was not hated by the surrounding inha- B 2 EEMINISCENCES OF THE LEWS. bitants. But, then, I could not afford the vastly increased rent demanded for my own creation; and so I vacated my quarters for some more opulent successor. And sorrowful indeed was my departure, and the parting with the friends of those twenty years. The com- panions of the wild sports of those outlandish countries become your friends and associates ; and you can venture to make them so, for the Highlander is a gentleman at heart, and never forgets his respect for you, so long as you respect yourself. Besides this, if you have ever killed a stag, a salmon, or an otter in his company, you stand well with him for the rest of your days. There were also other remem- brances that bound us much to one another, which, though nothing to the world, were much to ourselves. As, then, keepers, and stalkers, and gillies wrung my hand as we drank the parting "morning"—together, I felt there was truth in that grasp ^nay, even in the tear that stood in the eye of some, and certainly in my own. It was agony, I own, to leave that desolate home; and when I reached the hill-top, from which I caught the first glimpse of that long-loved cottage, like the Highland woman, I sat me down and cried. it is But, as I said, is over ; and what to be EEMINISCENCES OF THE LEWS. 3 done througli the long dreary days, now tliat I can no longer live upon the hopes and prospects of my annual migration to my wild home ? I will try and recollect the past, and solace myself with giving some of its remi- niscences, collected from notes, and journals, and game-books kept during some twenty shooting seasons passed there. They will be truthful, for it is a land with too many charms, not only for my perhaps too partial recollection, but for every true sportsman, not to be able to bear criticism and truth; and those only who do not or cannot appreciate its true worth, will feel any soreness at the remarks I may at times make upon its failings. My record, I fear will be dull, stale, and unprofitable ; for, my occupation having gone, the heart to write has gone with it. And why is it that I love that far-off land so ? not for its for all much Certes, beauty ; of the dismal, dreary countries that man ventures to traverse, commend me to a great part of the Lews. I do not think that, if I wished to pick a monotonous drive, I could find anything to surpass that from the Butt of Lews through Stornoway, and for some distance on towards Harris. When the difierent hills of the Park, of Uig, and of Harris begin to open, the B 2 4 REMINISCENCES OF THE LEWS. country gradually becomes more mountainous and beautiful. But all the nortliern portion of the island is one succession of peat, hags, and moss, studded with innumerable fresh- water lochs. Of course, Lews being an island, or rather peninsula, you have always in the sea, when you see it, a noble feature; and therefore the western coast, with the broad Atlantic breaking on it, is a sight to see. The Minch, too, when the weather is fine and you can see the mainland hills, is beautiful. But speaking of the interior portion of the northern part of the island, it presents no fine features, though you often get from it striking views of the outlines of the distant hills. My shootinof-lodo^e was about seven miles from the commencement of the hills, and a more dismal, dreary little place you would never wish to behold. I do not think you would have found many people to live in it when first I took it. There was sorry accommodation for the quality, scarcely any for servants. It was under a hill, and it looked out on the peat stacks only, which were ranged where they were cut in the peat bog; for, with the greatest possible ingenuity, the builder of the mansion had managed that from no window except the skyhght at the top of the house EEMINISCENCES OF THE LEWS. 5 could you contrive to get even a glimpse of a rather pretty loch close by. All that separated you from the peat stacks was the high road to Harris. Certainly, then, our situation was not and lover of beautiful picturesque ; yet, scenery as I am, and having at times sojourned in very lovely spots (once for years at the head of the upper lake of Killarney—and show me any- thing much fairer than Gheramene), I would rather own that little cottage on the roadside looking out on the peat- stacks, and live and die there, than pass my life on the Lake of Geneva, somewhere near Chillon, among a constant succession of fine sunsets. But then there is no accounting for tastes, and tastes are formed in odd ways. It is, however, time that I should get on to narrate how it was that I ever got to this queer little place. I was sitting one morning in June, 1850, at Borthwick Brae w4th F. M. and E. M., when Snowie's list of shootings came in. Among the advertisements was one of some shooting in the Lews and in Harris. Long, long ago my old friend, the late Sir Ronald Ferguson, a grand old soldier and a first-rate sportsman, recom- mended me to go and try those parts, as being alone compatible with my pocket and my views of boundless space to roam over. I had often 6 EEMINISCENCES OF THE LEWS. tried to get those two men, F. M. and R. M., to join and take some country in those far Hebrides, but I was perpetually laughed at for talking about what did not exist, and answered with the slang of the day about imaginary things, "which it is Harris." Throwing the " paper over to F., I exclaimed, Now will you " beheve ?—Look there ! And lo ! there were three shootings in the Lews advertised (which, with Harris, forms that island dignified with the name of the Long Island), with a reference for further information to a gentleman in Edin- burgh. The spaces seemed large, the rents small. Accordingly, instanter the phaeton was ordered to the door ; to the nearest station we drove, and were in Edinburgh in time to find our gentleman at home. He was perfectly fair. " You had better go and judge for yourselves. If you expect to get Highland grouse-shootings, you won't. If you can walk, you may kill some few brace daily. You will get plenty of stalk- ing, but the deer do not run large, and their heads are small, and might be stolen out of the mainland heads and not missed. You are not to expect fine Highland streams and large salmon. You will only find small streams, but plenty of fish in them, though not large. But, as I said, go and judge for yourselves. The EEMINISCENOES OF THE LEWS. next steamer for Stornoway sails on Thnrsday, and if you can get down to Glasgow to-morrow you will eatcli the Mary Jane, and get to Storn- oway on Saturday.
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