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WESTERN ISLES © Lonelyplanetpublications Western Isles Isles Western 234 Sandy Beachesandacentralknotofrollinghillsaffordinggreat Panoramicviews © Lonely Planet Publications 234 www.lonelyplanet.com WESTERN ISLES 235 0 30 km Western Isles 0 20 miles Western Isles – Maps 1 Tolsta to Ness p240 2 North Harris Walks p244 Western Isles Butt of Lewis 3 Eaval p248 Port 1 4 Hecla p250 Lionel (Lional) of Ness 5 Heaval p253 Skigersta (Sgiogarstaigh) A857 Celler Head Barvas (Barabhas) S I The very name Western Isles ( Eileanan Siar) expresses remoteness, difference and mystery, W Bragar E North Tolsta qualities that soon become real, almost tangible. There’s always something special about Carloway L Tolsta Head Great (Càrlabhagh) Bernera A857 travelling to islands and you soon realise these isles are strikingly different from each other; F O Timsgarry A858 Tiumpan (Timsgearraidh) Stornoway from the peatlands of north Lewis and the rocky mountains of Harris, to the mosaic of water Garynahine (Steornabhagh) Head (Gearraidh na Mangersta A866 and land in the Uists, and the compactness of Barra. However, they all share two qualities: A T L A N T I C (Mangurstadh) h–Aibhne) O C E A N Laibheal A859 an extraordinary sense of space in the vast sky and the limitless ocean, and a feeling of a Tuath E L Balallan (495m) (Baile Ailein) stretched time. Western Isles communities are lively and dynamic, but there is a relaxed S I Scarp Tirga Mor feeling of unhurriedness. Waymarked walks with strong historical and natural-history themes (Tiogra Mòr) Huishinish (679m) Clisham are scattered throughout the isles, and there are enough hills, glens, rocky coasts and vast (Huisinis) (An Cliseam) Orinsay Amhuinnsuidhe North (799m) Toddun (Orasaigh) (Abhainn Suidhe) Harris 2 To sandy beaches for months of exploration on foot. W (Todun) est L (528m) Ullapool Tarb oc ert h T H E Taransay Rhenigidale (Reinigeadal) The Isle of Lewis can seem rather barren at first, but head for the coast to dispel this Tarbert (Tairbeart) M I N C H Scalpay Shiant Toe Head A859 South Islands illusion – in the far northeast, and facing the wild Atlantic out west, you will find rugged Harris (Scalpaigh) Plocrapool Pabbay Leverburgh (Plocrapol) cliffs, secluded coves and excellent walking. Harris, Lewis’ southern neighbour, is the most (An t–Ob) S Berneray of o Roineabhal H u mountainous of the isles, containing dozens of impressively rocky, steep-sided peaks, includ- a n (460m) Borve r d r Renish Point (Borgh) i ing Clisham (799m), the highest in the Western Isles. Continuing south, North Uist is mostly Grenitote s Otternish H (Greinetobht) C Gairloch N billiard-table flat but a few small, attractive hills poke their heads up skywards, notably I A865 Lochmaddy M Bayhead North (Loch nam Madadh) Eaval, almost surrounded by water. A long chain of mountains dominates slender South Uist, (Ceann a Uist E Bhaigh) A867 North Lee L T Uig among which Hecla is a formidable objective. Furthest south, Barra is a delight, with superb Clachan (Li a Tuath) Loch na Luib 3 (250m) T Loch Torridon Monach Eaval I Snizort A855 sandy beaches and a central knot of rolling hills affording great panoramic views. A87 d Islands (Eabhal) L (347m) The Storr n (719m) u Gramsdale E Shieldaig Benbecula (Gramasdail) o H A850 Liniclate S (Lionacleit) T Dunvegan Beinn Bhàn I S L E r Macleod's (896m) WESTERN ISLES Tables Portree e A863 O F n 4 Isle of Lochskipport (Loch Sgioport) Raasay n Howmore (Tobha Mòr) I Hecla (Thacla) (606m) S K Y E A865 Ben More Kyle of Scalpay Lochalsh South (Beinn Mhòr) Sligachan (620m) Uist Stulaval (Stulabhal) Cuillin A87 To Invergarry Daliburgh Lochboisdale (374m) Hills WESTERN ISLES (Dalabrog) (Loch Baghasdail) Ludag So un d Causeway Elgol o A851 HIGHLIGHTS f Eriskay Airfield B (Tràigh Mhòr) a r S E A O F T H E r Barra a Discovering a fascinating variety of historical features on the Tolsta to Ness ( p237 ) walk on Armadale 5 Heaval H E B R I D E S Canna Lewis’ northeast coast Borve (Borgh) (Sheabhal) Castlebay (Bàgh Earsary (383m) Rum a' Chaisteil) (Earsairidh) Mallaig Revelling in the wild, rugged mountainscapes of Harris from the summit of the Western Isles’ Vatersay S o u n d o f S l e a t highest peak, Clisham ( p245 ) Sandray Pabbay To Fort Gazing down at the extraordinary water-and-rock patchwork landscape from Hecla ( p249 ) in Eigg A830 William Mingulay South Uist Berneray Muck Wandering along vast white-sand beaches on the isle of Barra ( p251 ) www.visithebrides.com www.thewesternisles.co.uk To Oban 236 WESTERN ISLES •• Environment www.lonelyplanet.com www.lonelyplanet.com LEWIS •• Tolsta to Ness 237 ENVIRONMENT INFORMATION Of the 50 or more islands of the Western Maps & Books SUNDAY IN THE WESTERN ISLES Isles, often also called the Outer Hebrides, For planning and familiarisation the OS The Western Isles is the stronghold in Scotland of the Free Church, its origins lying in a mid-19th- 12 are populated. They form a chain about Travel – Road 1:250,000 map No 3 Western century schism in the Church of Scotland. Later differences led to the establishment of several 130 miles (209km) long on the western Scotland & the Western Isles is good. smaller churches, including the Free Presbyterian Church and the United Free Presbyterians. edge of the British Isles. Greyish Lewisian The Scottish Mountaineering Club’s Hill- Their congregations have built many remarkable churches on Lewis and Harris in particular, gneiss, the oldest rock type in northwest- walkers’ Guide The Islands of Scotland by DJ standing stolidly against the elements. The Bible is central to their beliefs, which require observ- ern Europe, is nearly ubiquitous, though Fabian, GE Little and DN Williams includes ance of the Lord’s Day, Sunday, as a day of rest and devotion. Consequently, there are no bus large outcrops of pink and white granite are the Western Isles. Though published several services on Sunday, almost all shops and petrol stations are closed and only a handful of hotels found in the mountains and on the coast of years ago, the basic facts remain unchanged. provide meals for nonresidents. Some B&B proprietors prefer not to welcome or farewell guests on Harris. The last Ice Age honed the narrow Among a handful of specialist walking guides, Sunday. You’ll see signs prohibiting sport and even the use of children’s playgrounds. However, mountain ridges, sculpted corries and U- Mike Williams’ Western Isles, describing 34 Stornoway airport handles Sunday flights and the ferry company, CalMac, having desisted from shaped valleys in hilly areas, and left behind mostly shortish walks, stands out. For a guide Sunday sailings for decades, was both reviled and praised when it inaugurated services between masses of glacial material in valleys and on to the isles’ exceptionally rich archaeologi- Harris and Berneray and the Isle of Skye in 2006. flat ground. Particularly in northern Lewis, cal heritage, Historic Scotland’s The Ancient Things are different on South Uist and Barra, where most people adhere to the Roman Catholic large areas are covered with peat – dark soil Monuments of the Western Isles by Noel Fojut faith. composed of dead vegetation and of great et al is authoritative and comprehensive. In today’s materialistic, sceptical world, these beliefs may seem anachronistic but their botanical importance. adherents in the Western Isles nonetheless deserve respect for their practices. Dramatic cliffs and deep inlets typify the Information Sources east coasts. The long sandy beaches and The official Visit Hebrides (www.visithebrides.com) machair (the flat, coastal plain, where a website is useful for accommodation list- TOLSTA TO NESS mixture of sand and peat produces fertile, ings and reservations, transport links and LEWIS flower-rich grasslands, home for numer- general background information. Duration 4–4½ hours ous species of birds) on the Atlantic coasts Public transport timetables, covering Lewis ( Leodhas) is the most populous of Distance 10 miles (16km) originated after the last Ice Age when skele- flights, ferries and buses to and within the the Western Isles, with Stornoway, the capi- Difficulty moderate tons of innumerable marine creatures were isles, are available from local TICs or from tal, on the east coast and several villages Start Garry Beach pulverised into sand. the Western Isles Council (www.cne-siar.gov.uk). sprawled along the west side. North Lewis’ Finish Skigersta empty hinterland is speckled with myriad Nearest Towns Stornoway ( p238 ), CLIMATE Place Names lochs surrounded by almost featureless Ness ( p239 ) One thing is certain about the Western Isles’ On street and roadside direction signs, peaty moorland; the south is rockier and Transport private climate – its variability from day to day, hour Gaelic names either stand alone or are hillier. Everywhere the coast is exception- Summary Spectacular coastal scenery, rem- to hour and between areas within the isles. shown more prominently than the Eng- ally scenic, with cliffs punctuated by narrow nants of summer shielings, superb views of Relatively warm water from southern lati- lish name. Similarly, the OS Landranger inlets, bays and sandy beaches. Sutherland mountains and abundant sea tudes carried by the Gulf Stream is accompa- 1:50,000 maps show Gaelic names almost birds. nied by mild, moisture-laden southwesterly exclusively, with English equivalents only PLANNING WESTERN ISLES winds that expend the greater part of their for the major towns. In this chapter, the Guided Walks load on the western coast, leaving only show- English place names are followed, wherever The Royal Society for the Protection of Birds (RSPB; This walk is inspired by the waymarked ers for sheltered eastern parts. ‘Mare’s tail’ possible, by the Gaelic names. %07798 667751) puts on free guided walks on route from Garry Beach ( Tràigh Ghearadha), clouds across the vast sky herald approaching Lewis, usually lasting a couple of hours; de- north of the village of New Tolsta ( Bail’ Ur processions of depressions from the south- Access tails should be available from the Storno- Tholastaidh), north to the district of Ness west, followed by lower, hazy cloud and The walks described in this chapter follow way TIC ( p238 ).
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