by QUALITY WAGON KITS M ODELS AND ACCESSORIES Truly authentic models for your OO, O or N Gauge Model Railway Part of the family by M S BUILDING A OO GAUGE WAGON KIT ODEL The Parkside Models kit for the ubiquitous BR 16T Mineral Wagon (ref.PC21) presents a very straightforward kit-building exercise, ideal as a first rolling stock construction project. This example has been finished with transfers from the Modelmaster Decals range and weathered using acrylic paints and Humbrol weathering powders. STEP 1 - Kit contents STEP 2 - Cutting parts from the sprue The kit contains all the parts The moulded plastic parts need needed to construct a complete to be removed from the sprues wagon. The only additional as illustrated. To minimise items required are solvent, the amount of cleaning up paint, transfers and a handful required, cut as close as of basic modelling tools; a possible to the components. sharp modelling knife, set of needle files, engineers’ square and a cutting mat. STEP 3 - Cleaning the parts STEP 4 - Joining the parts Before the parts can be joined The assembly of this kit begins together, any pips and traces with one of the ends being of flash need to be removed. joined to a side, with these A set of needle files is ideal for then attached to the floor. First, this purpose. Work carefully check the fit of the two parts and with only gentle pressure to be joined, and then hold in on the file, to ensure the position whilst running solvent components are not damaged. along the inside of the join with a fine brush. Capillary action will draw the solvent into the joint. Hold together for a few seconds and check the join is true using an engineers’ square. STEP 5 - Adding the bearings STEP 6 - Inserting the wheelsets The chassis sideframes are the Hold the second sideframe next items to be fitted. Brass in position against the lugs bearings need to be pressed on the floor, and then insert into the backs of the axleboxes the wheelsets. Keep the so that the rims sit almost wheelsets in place by holding flush; the edge of a flat needle the axleboxes firmly together file is ideal for this. Attach one and then run solvent along of the sideframes against the the inside edge of the second lugs on the underside of the sideframe. Continue to hold in floor as illustrated, and allow position until the solvent has the joint to harden completely. hardened. Check that both Check that the sideframe is set exactly vertical. sideframes are set vertical and that the axles are parallel to the floor and ends. Next add the buffer beams, hooks and buffer heads as illustrated. STEP 7 - Fitting the chassis detail STEP 8 - Couplings and additional weight Brake gear and chassis details The last items to fit are vary between prototypes, but the couplings; components there are usually instructions for tension lock couplings and diagrams supplied with are included in the kit. The the kit to guide the modeller. completed wagon can be Note that this wagon has the test run, if desired, prior brake shoes on one side only. to painting, lettering and Here, the gusset plates are weathering to suit. By their being fixed in place along the nature, plastic wagons tend to be quite light and benefit from additional underside of the body using weight. Open wagons such as this one can have extra weight fitted in two tweezers. ways; under the floor between the sideframes if running ‘empty’, or in the wagon underneath a suitable load if running ‘full’. by M S BUILDING AN O GAUGE WAGON KIT ODEL The 7mm wagon kits in the Parkside Models range are supplied complete with wheels, bearings, buffers, three-link couplings, glazing (where appropriate) and transfers. Some kits also feature etched parts for brake gear components and lengths of brass wire to form handrails. The basic principles of building one of these kits are the same as for 4mm versions, but there are a few aspects of construction that are expanded upon in the following step by step sequence. The featured kit is an LMS 20T Goods Brake Van (ref.PS111). STEP 1 STEP 2 Because this model has Following assembly of the handrails, the sides need sides, ends and floor, the preparing prior to assembling couplings can then be added to the body; the holes for the the headstocks. Each coupling handrails are partially moulded comprises a brass hook, spring and need drilling through and three links. Pliers were using a 0.5mm bit in a pin vice. used to open out the links to Fix it in place (using capillary connect them together and action to draw it along). When then the top link was clipped trial-fitting the roof it was onto the hook, with the brass discovered that there were housing lightly crimped around gaps around the top curved the link to hold it in place. The edge of each end, so strips of hole in each headstock needed to be enlarged to allow the hook to move 20thou styrene strip were fixed over these top edges to close the gaps. smoothly. To fit the coupling, the hook was inserted through the headstock and the spring slotted over from the back. Whilst compressing the spring STEP 3 against the back of the headstock, the ‘tails’ of the hook were bent at opposing right angles to lock the coupling in place. The axleboxes are separate units that are designed to float vertically within the W-irons, STEP 4 intended to offer a degree of The wheelsets are fitted compensation when running with the axleboxes held over uneven trackwork. At in place under tension the top of the picture are the between the axle ends and five components that form the W-irons. It is important each axlebox, with a partially to add the wheelsets only assembled example beneath. once the solebars have dried completely. This is to avoid STEP 5 any tendency for the W-irons to splay out, thereby introducing Some of the brake gear unwanted ‘slop’ which could compromise components for this kit are the running quality. It is worth sighting along the length of the vehicle supplied as etched parts. These to ensure that the axles are in line with each other. Any small amount of can be cut from the fret using ‘rock’ can be corrected by adding – to the relevant wheel – tiny shims of snippers and, after cleaning styrene between the top of the axlebox and underside of the spring. up with a file, folded to the required profiles using pliers (see right). STEP 6 The sprung buffers are assembled and fitted to The main picture (left) the headstocks, with small shows the completed amounts of cyanoacrylate brake gear in place. The used to lock the nuts in place. etched parts are positioned The holes in the headstocks over locating pips on the required some reaming sub-chassis, enabling ease out with a file to achieve a of alignment. With all the satisfactory fit and the insides brake gear in place, a final of the solebars also needed check is made to ensure fettling to prevent them from the brake shoes do not bind fouling the ends of the buffer against the wheel treads. shanks. by M S BUILDING AN O GAUGE WAGON KIT ODEL …continued STEP 7 STEP 8 Handrails were fabricated The completed model from the sections of 0.5mm (although the roof brass wire supplied in the kit. was actually kept as a About 3mm was allowed at separate item until after the ends of each handrail to painting, as was the provide sufficient depth to pass glazing). The rain strips through the locating holes were fabricated from the in the model. A scrap piece styrene strip provided. of 40thou styrene sheet was To fix each one in place used as a spacer to maintain it was first attached with an equal distance between the a spot of Plastic Weld at its centre point. Then, working on one side at a handrails and the body. time, each end of the strip was pulled down towards its respective corner so that it formed its own natural curve. Plastic Weld was then run along the length of the strip to fix it in place (using capillary action to draw it STEP 9 along). When trial-fitting the roof it was discovered that there were gaps The model was painted around the top curved edge of each end, so strips of 20thou styrene strip according to the instructions were fixed over these top edges to close the gaps. supplied; enamels or acrylics can be used according to your preference. Self-adhesive type transfers are supplied in the 7mm range kits, which cover pre-grouping, post-grouping and post-nationalisation eras as appropriate, with a selection of numbers for each. Each transfer is cut round (through the tissue only and not the backing paper) and then picked up and placed in position with tweezers. It is then pressed down on the body before soaking with water. This separates the tissue from the transfer which can then be lifted clear, as illustrated. A pass of matt varnish from an aerosol helps to fix the transfers in place and protect them from handling. Weathering can be undertaken if desired; weathering powders were used on this model. Building a Parkside Models kit can be a very satisfying and rewarding exercise. And with such a wide variety of kits available you will be sure to be able to add new stock to your railway that cannot be found from the ready-to-run manufacturers.