Contemporary Asian is hot in Singapore's dining scene Chef Alvin Leung, who is behind the three-Michelin-star Bo Innovation in Hong Kong, took 10 years to open Forbidden Duck, his first eatery in Singapore. It opened last Thursday. ST PHOTO: NG SOR LUAN Celebrity chef Alvin Leung's Forbidden Duck and MasterChef Woo Wai Leong's Restaurant Ibid are among the many Asian and modern Chinese restaurants popping up in Singapore. The Sunday Times checks them out PUBLISHED: MAY 6, 2018, 5:00 AM SGT ... Eunice Quek Asian is the flavour of the month, with the opening of a slew of new restaurants - many of which are best described as modern Chinese. High-profile ones include Madame Fan in Beach Road and Forbidden Duck by celebrity chef Alvin Leung at Marina Bay Link Mall. Local chefs are also paying homage to their roots - with MasterChef Asia winner Woo Wai Leong's Restaurant Ibid in North Canal Road and Circa 1912 by food consultant and chef David Yip. All these add to the more than 20 new restaurants and casual eateries which have opened since last month. And more are in the pipeline. There has also been a spate of brands from overseas opening here, including Took Lae Dee from Thailand and one-Michelin-starred Qi - House of Sichuan from Hong Kong. According to information from analytics platform Handshakes and the Accounting and Corporate Regulatory Authority, 409 restaurants have opened so far this year, while 269 have closed. If the pace of restaurants opening is kept up for the rest of the year, it could well surpass last year's total of 1,084 - which itself was almost double the number in 2016. But there have been closures too. Asian restaurants that were casualties this year include Japanese-French restaurant Me@OUE in Collyer Quay; Four Seasons Chinese Restaurant at Capitol Piazza; and modern Asian restaurants Fat Lulu's in River Valley Road and Restaurant Ards in Duxton Road. Chefs and restaurateurs say that Asian cuisine has been evolving over the years - from adopting modern interiors to cooking methods and plating. All this while staying true to authentic flavours. Circa 1912's co-founder David Yip says: "The trend for Chinese cuisine is split into two. Younger chefs take a more modern approach with some Western influence, while the older ones still emphasise traditional taste. "And we cannot neglect the importance of China, especially when its cuisine is 'in' right now. There is so much to explore." Those bringing in overseas concepts also need to pay attention to how the brand is translated for diners here. London-based restaurateur Alan Yau, 56, who is behind Madame Fan, says: "In London, my projects were primarily dictated by the market, so the Westernised essence of the brand was important to their success. In Singapore, with a mainly Chinese clientele, it is about whether you can define the product layering to be special enough - and consistent enough - to make it a success. "I wanted a spirited but authentic take on traditional Chinese food, without it veering into fusion cuisine or pandering to a generic Pan- Asian idea of food which I do not believe in." Despite the slew of modern Asian restaurants, Blue Lotus Concepts International managing director Ricky Ng, who recently opened casual chicken-centric restaurant Chicken Story at Savourworld, is still planning to launch a fine-dining Chinese concept with French- style gueridon or trolley service. He is also tweaking his menu at Blue Lotus Kitchen + Bar in Alexandra to include more Asian dishes, due to customer demand, as "people associate the Blue Lotus brand with Asian food". On the spate of new modern Asian restaurants, he says: "Over the last couple of years, we've seen many Japanese and Western restaurants opening. For Chinese food, people still go to the older brands. It's time for new Asian concepts to come up. It takes the market to the next level." • Follow Eunice Quek on Twitter @STEuniceQ HONG KONG'S 'DEMON CHEF' READY FOR SINGAPORE It has taken a decade for Hong Kong's "demon chef" Alvin Leung to open a restaurant in Singapore - a country he considers his "favourite destination". The straight-talking chef says: "Singapore has been ready for 10 years. But was I ready to come? It has taken me 10 years and that's because I know Singaporeans are not going to suck up anything you give them. They have high standards and I don't want to come and disappoint everyone if I'm not ready." He is the man behind the three-Michelin-star Bo Innovation in Hong Kong, which has branches in Shanghai and London. He launched Cantonese restaurant Forbidden Duck in Hong Kong last December, as well as casual Korean chain Bibs n Hops and Spanish tapas restaurant Plato86. Related Story Hong Kong 3-Michelin star chef Alvin Leung to open first Singapore restaurant in April Forbidden Duck's Singapore outpost opened last Thursday, and Leung - a MasterChef Canada judge and television show host - does not rule out opening branches of his flagship brand here too. Duck, of course, is the key ingredient in many dishes here and the restaurant serves two styles of roast duck - the signature Peking roast duck ($48 for half, $78 for whole) and a three-hour slow-roasted duck ($88) with pink, tender and juicy meat. The slow-roasted duck comes with steamed buns flavoured with calamansi and hoisin sauce with calamansi, garlic, sugar and smoked sea salt. Other duck-centric highlights include seafood rice in aromatic duck soup ($32) and steamed black truffle and duck tongue dumpling, a dim sum item available for lunch. For variety, order the Iberico pork char siu ($30) and sweet and sour pork with lychee, rose and hawthorn ($23). While the menu is mostly similar to the one in Hong Kong, Leung also has dishes with a Singapore twist, such as laksa-style duck served in lettuce cups, and Sri Lanka crab in white pepper broth ($98). He also puts a cheeky spin on the classic cereal prawns dish, which he does not fancy as he finds it "too dry". Instead of using the usual cereal, he adds fruit-flavoured Froot Loops instead. On the evolution of Chinese cuisine, Leung says: "Chinese cuisine exists everywhere and, with modern Chinese restaurants coming up, people are paying more attention and not taking it for granted. "It is not just regarded as comfort food. There is a lot more to Chinese cuisine that we need to pay attention to, such as the kind of starch used to create different textures for dim sum skin." FORBIDDEN DUCK Where: 02-02 Marina Bay Link Mall, 8A Marina Boulevard Open: 11am to 3pm, 6 to 10pm (weekdays only and May 13); open daily from May 19 Info: Call 6509-8767 or e-mail [email protected] NEW ASIAN AND OTHER EATERIES OPENED IN APRIL The Stamford Brasserie The Stamford Brasserie's Pulled Kurobuta Pork. PHOTO: THE STAMFORD BRASSERIE A multi-concept restaurant and bar at Swissotel The Stamford with a convenient Grab & Go section with salads, sandwiches and desserts. Where: Level 1 Swissotel The Stamford, 2 Stamford Road Info: Call 6431-6156 or go to www.facebook.com/TheStamfordBrasserie Madame Fan The fine-dining Chinese restaurant is helmed by acclaimed London-based restaurateur Alan Yau, who is famed for Hakkasan in London. Where: South Beach development, 32 Beach Road Info: Call 6818-1921 or e-mail [email protected] Columbus Coffee Co The latest cafe concept by the owners of Atlas Coffeehouse in Duke Road and Lunar Coffee Brewers at Downtown Gallery. Where: 220 Upper Thomson Road Info: Call 6253-6024 or go to www.facebook.com/columbuscoffeeco Le Bon Funk A natural wine bar by The Lo & Behold Group which offers house-cured charcuterie and contemporary sharing plates. Where: 29 Club Street Info: Call 6224-1490 or go to www.lebonfunk.com Martin Zwerts Singapore Thick-cut fries specialist from Eindhoven, the Netherlands. Where: B1-07 Holland Piazza, 3 Lorong Liput Info: martinzwerts.com OPENED/OPENING THIS MONTH The Spot A multi-concept venue which offers wine from 1855 The Bottle Shop, coffee from Toby's Estate and whisky from The Macallan Boutique @ 1855. Where: 01-26/27 Marina One The Heart, 5 Straits View Info: Call 6284-2637 or go to www.facebook.com/TheSpotSG Took Lae Dee Took Lae Dee's Pad Krapow Pork. PHOTO: TOOK LAE DEE SINGAPORE A popular Thai restaurant chain brought in by Hersing Culinary. Where: 18 Tai Seng Street, 01-34/35/K9 (opens on Tuesday) Info: www.facebook.com/TLDSingapore Ding Xian Hotpot A hotpot restaurant, the latest addition to Japanese dining cluster Eat At Seven at Suntec City. Where: 03-315 Eat At Seven, Suntec City Mall North Wing, 3 Temasek Boulevard Qi - House of Sichuan The first outpost of the one-Michelin-star restaurant of the same name from Hong Kong. Where: 02-01 Marina Bay Link Mall, 8A Marina Boulevard Info: Call 6634-8277 or e-mail [email protected] OPENING NEXT MONTH Seoul Garden's new concepts Halal cafe Two Hana and sandwich kiosk Seoul In A Sandwich are launching at Century Square. Famous Treasure A fine-dining concept at Capitol Piazza by the owners of popular seafood restaurant Famous Kitchen in Sembawang Road. OPENING LATER THIS YEAR Black Tap Craft Burgers & Beer Burger and beer from New York's Black Tap Craft Burgers & Beer, which will also offer milkshakes. PHOTO: BLACK TAP CRAFT BURGERS & BEER The New York-based restaurant opening at Marina Bay Sands will offer signature craft burgers and milkshakes.