GUIDE TO SHANGHAI

JING THEORY 1 HE JING THEORY GUIDE is a curated, concise reference to TShanghai, getting straight to the point of what to do, see and eat for lov- ers of food, culture and design. See www.jingtheory.com/shanghaiguide for a Google map of all the recommended spots. WELCOME

AIRPORT From Pudong, the Maglev gets you in town at lightning speed. Hop in the subway or cab from there. Hongqiao airport is closer to town and a taxi will run you 60-80 RMB.

GETTING AROUND The transit system in Shanghai is one of the finest in the world and anything is accessible by train or bus. Taxis are cheap and plentiful but tough to flag in rain or rush hour. Drivers speak Chinese only, call 96822 for English service. Biking is a great way to see the city, China Cycle Tours ([email protected]) rents by day and delivers straight to your hotel.

JING THEORY x UBER Fans of luxury car service Uber rejoice, they’ve landed in Shanghai and are offering new users two free rides up to 200 RMB each with the code ‘jingtheory’. Just download the app to get around in style.

WIFI Provided free by most businesses, just ask for the password

TOILET PAPER Don’t leave home without it

JING THEORY 3 SLEEP

THE PULI HOTEL & SPA A peaceful urban resort and spa, an oasis in its bustling city center location. Features a lush garden terrace and one of the best Sunday brunches in town. +862132039999 / 1 Changde Lu / 常德路1号,近延安路 / www.thepuli.com

LES SUITES ORIENT Understated luxury on the quieter side of the Bund. Minimalist and functional design, with complimentary breakfast, wifi and snacks all day long. +862163200088 / 1 Jinling Dong Lu / 金陵东路1号,近中山东二路 / www.lessuitesorient.com

THE PENINSULA The only new structure built in 70+ years on the Bund, The Peninsula revives classic glamour by blending the history of its landmark location with stunning Art-Deco decor. +862123272888 / 32 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu / 中山东一路32号,近北京东路 / www.peninsula.com

LE SUN CHINE The former family estate of a Shanghai flour baron, this Relais & Chateaux property is a hidden gem in the French Concession. 17 rooms dripping with 1930’s style and featuring the only Champagne Salon bar in the city. +862152569977 / 6, Lane 1220, Huashan Lu / 华山路1220弄6号,近湖南路 / www.lesunchine.com

JIA SHANGHAI Sister hotel to Philippe Starck-designed Jia Hong Kong, this boutique residence by Yenn Wong strikes the right balance between ‘ho- tel’ and ‘home’. +862162179000 / 931 Nanjing Xi Lu / 南京西路931号,近泰兴路 / www.jiashanghai.com

THE WATERHOUSE Industrial-chic boutique hotel designed by archi- tecture power couple Neri&Hu, also houses Jason Atherton’s acclaimed Table No. 1 and a stunning rooftop bar. +862160802988 / 1-3 Maojiayuan Lu / 毛家园路1-3号1楼,近中山南路 / www.waterhouseshanghai.com

AIRBNB 1000+ beautiful properties throughout the city, and a great way to experience charming French Concession living. www.airbnb.com

JING THEORY 4 JING THEORY 5 EAT

OLD JESSE A French Concession institution serving up Shanghainese classics like hongshaorou and crab roe tofu. Only six tables so reservations are essential. Off-the-menu items like cod fish head in scallion oil are pure magic. +862162829260 / 41 Tianping Lu / 天平路41号,近淮海西路 / $$

LIN LONG FANG Sister restaurant to the massively popular Jia Jia Tang Bao, it’s every bit as good but maintains a low profile so you never have to wait in line. Ordered, made, and consumed on the spot, the crab roe and pork xiaolongbao are as good as it gets. 10 Jianguo Dong Lu / 建国东路10号,近肇周路 / $

YANG’S FRY DUMPLINGS Cousin to the xiaolongbao, Shanghai’s home-grown street snack shenjianbao are thick, bready buns pan-fried to perfection, scalding hot and flowing with juices inside. Perpetual cues but worth the wait. 97 Huanghe Lu / 黄河路97号,近凤阳路 / $

MERCATO Jean-Georges’ farm-to-table coastal Italian restaurant is stripped-down, rustic, features the finest seasonal ingredients, and tosses one of the best pizzas in town. Popular for dates and large groups, bookings are essential. +862163219922 / 6/F, 17 Guangdong Lu / 广东路17号,外滩三号6楼,近中山东一路 / $$$$

ULTRAVIOLET The first of its kind in the world, Paul Pairet’s temple to futurist cuisine features multi-sensory technologies that create a “fully immer- sive” dining experience for ten people nightly. Dinner will set you back 2500 RMB, but get in line as seats are booked up three months in advance. Undisclosed location / Online booking only / www.uvbypp.cc / $$$$$

LE SHENG Traditional Shanghainese food with an elegant, contempo- rary presentation. The go-to place for locals wanting comfort classics served in an upscale setting. Tea and cocktail list to match. +862154066011 / 308 Anfu Lu / 安福路308号,近武康路 / $$

JING THEORY 6 JING THEORY 7 EAT

LOST HEAVEN Stylized, delicious Yunnan folk cuisine served in an at- mospheric, candle-lit lanehouse in the French Concession. Other location on Bund turns up the glam and has an expansive rooftop bar/lounge. +862164335126 / 38 Gaoyou Lu / 高邮路38号,近复兴西路 / $$

MR & MRS BUND A ‘Modern French Eatery’ by Paul Pairet and Shang- hai’s original late night fine-dining spot. Classy yet relaxed, the music is good and views superb. Interior needs a facelift, but Pairet’s legendary Meunière Truffle Bread keeps them coming back. +862163239898 / 6/F, 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu / 中山东一路18号6楼,近南京东路 / $$$$

FRANCK Intimate bistro long considered best French restaurant in Shang- hai. Tucked away in Ferguson Lane, handwritten chalkboard menu features superlative steak tartare, fish and cote de boeuf. An impressive cellar stores boutique biodynamic wines from Franck Pecol’s travels in France. +8615821676767 / 376 Wukang Lu / 武康路376号,近泰安路 / $$$$

DASHU WUJIE (GREENOLOGY) Thoughtfully executed and beau- tifully presented vegetarian cuisine with knowledgeable waiters taking you through the providence and ethos behind each dish. This is ingredient-driv- en food at its best. 2nd location in Bund 22. +862134692857 / 392 Tianping Lu / 天平路392号,近肇嘉浜路 / $$$

KOTA’S KITCHEN Charming Beatles themed yakitori bar serving up all manner of delicious grilled things and house-made shochus to the soundtrack of Abbey Road and the Yellow Submarine. +8664812005 / 2905 Xietu Lu / 斜土路2905号,近零陵路 / $$

CAFE DAN Tianzifang gem is as religious about its coffee as its Japanese comfort food. The iced latte uses coffee ice cubes to prevent dilution, and the house-made udon is bliss. No. 41, Lane 248 Taikang Lu / 泰康路248弄田子坊41号后门,近思南路 / $$

JING THEORY 8 EAT

YAKEXI Festive Xinjiang restaurant showcasing regional Uyghur cuisine. Cumin lamb, tossed breads and noodles among the highlights. Lively music and dancing on second floor. +862162673755 / 379 Xikang Lu / 西康路379号,近武定路 / $$

HAIDILAO The Don of all hotpot chains, these guys are so popular they give free manicures and massages while you wait for a table. Might be the only restaurant in the world to offer live video-conferencing while you eat. Make sure to order the dramatic hand-pulled noodles.Open 24 hours. +862162589750 / 3/F, 1068 Beijing Lu / 北京路1068号,三楼,近江宁路 / $$$

CAPO ‘Basilica’ dining in the attic of a historic building on the Rockbund. Crudo bar and ‘cookhouse’ concept with killer Neopolitan pizzas. The oven was shipped brick by brick from Italy and assembled by artisans from Naples. +862153088332 / 5/F, 99 Beijing Dong Lu / 北京东路99号5楼,近圆明园路 / $$$$

LAN TING Grimy hole in the wall with die-hard local following serving up finger-licking Shanghainese home cooking. Jigujiang, sweet and sticky soy sauce chicken and youbaoxia, flash-fried river shrimp are favourites. 107 Songshan Lu / 嵩山路107号,近太仓路 / $ HENGSHAN CAFE A beloved Cantonese eatery for Hong Kong com- fort classics at great value. Open until 4am, its one of the few places to get great food late at night. Roast meats and daily soups are ace. 308 Hengshan Lu / 衡山路308号,近吴兴路 / $$

CHENG CHENG’S ART SALON One of the most charming and eclec- tic dining rooms in the city, this Shanghainese restaurant also serves as an art gallery. Food is great but decor and serveware even better. +862153065462 / 164 Nanchang Lu / 南昌路164号,近思南路 / $$$

JING THEORY 9 FUEL

1984 BOOKSTORE & CAFÉ Hidden café with a quiet courtyard and several tables to do work or meet over coffee. Old Shanghai decor and warm wooden hues create an atmospheric escape in the French Concession. 11 Hunan Lu / 湖南路11号,近武康路

FARINE Artisanal bakery by Franck Pecol offering premium coffee, breads and pastries with prices to match. Ferguson Lane, 1/F, 378 Wukang Lu / 武康路378号1楼,近泰安路

OLD CHINA HAND READING ROOM Quiet library and cafe on Sha- oxing Road, literary quarter of old Shanghai. Oozes charm and atmosphere. 27 Shaoxing Lu / 绍兴路27号,近陕西南路

SUMERIAN Friendly and relaxed coffee shop in Jing’an roasting its own beans daily and carrying single origin coffees from Sumatra, Oaxaca, Ethio- pia and Tanzania. Offers cupping classes by appointment. 415 Shanxi Bei Lu / 陕西北路415号,近北京西路

CAFE DAN See “Eat”

SONG FANG MAISON DE THÉ See “Shop”

SINMEI TEA Hong Kong import in a cozy space on Shaoxing Lu special- izing in Japanese matcha green tea beverages, snacks and desserts. 35-10 Shaoxing Lu / 绍兴路35－10号

CAFÉ DEL VOLCÁN Boutique shoebox-sized coffee shop on Yongkang Lu that roasts its own beans and offers single origin and signature blends from around the world. Great design and service. 80 Yongkang Lu / 永康路80号,近襄阳路

C-STORE / LAWSONS In the competitive sea of convenience stores pro- liferating on Shanghai’s streets, C-Store and Lawsons have come up on top, with affordable Illy coffee and imported drinks/snacks among the offerings. Everywhere

JING THEORY 10 JING THEORY 11 DRINK

SENATOR’S SALOON Atmospheric craft cocktail bar harking back to prohibition-era speakeasies. Dim, wooden interior with gilded ceilings and intimate booths make for a cozy date spot. Killer bourbon cocktails. +862154231330 / 98 Wuyuan Lu / 五原路98号,近乌鲁木齐中路

SOUTHERN CROSS Low-key Japanese whiskey bar in an old French Concession house with great service and high standards for craft cocktails. +862154047211 / 1276 Huaihai Zhong Lu / 淮海中路1276号,近华亭路

KATHLEEN’S WAITAN Expansive patio takes in the Shanghai skyline in all its glory. Food is decent but the real draw is the finely crafted cocktails by world renowned mixologist Giancarlo Mancino. Try the Bobby Burns. +862166600989 / 4/F, 200 Huangpu Lu / 黄浦路200号4楼,近青浦路

CHOIR Dark and cozy wine bar in the oldest building on the Bund, origi- nal granite arches exude history and character. +8663212336 / 19 Fuzhou Lu / 福州路19号,近中山东一路

BAR AT LE SUN CHINE Opulent yet understated cocktail bar on the first floor of the storied manor, pick your drink goblet from a beautiful selec- tion and have the bartender concoct one of their fine whiskey cocktails. +862152569977 / 6, Lane 1220, Huashan Lu / 华山路1220弄6号,近湖南路

ARCADE An arcade-themed cocktail bar with hip music and a clientele to match. Small, dark and chilled out. +8654047118 / 2/F, 57 Fuxing Xi Lu / 复兴西路57号2楼,近永福路

CRAFT Boisterous, fun and often very crowded, DJs spin disco throw- backs and the bar serves up a mean Bloody Mary. Tad hard to find, walk into the alley by the south annex of Donghu Hotel and up the stairs to the top. 7 Donghu Lu / 东湖路7号

YONGKANG LU Popular daytime drinking street. Watch out for water dumping neighbours upstairs. +8654047118 / 2/F, 57 Fuxing Xi Lu / 复兴西路57号2楼,近永福路

JING THEORY 12 RELAX

SUBCONSCIOUS DAY SPA Serene, minimalist-designed day spa of- fering therapeutic skin and body treatments, mani/pedis, small yoga classes, reiki sessions and workshops. Multiple locations. +862164150636 / 183 Fumin Lu / 富民路183号,近巨鹿路

TAIPAN The ultimate in decadence, getting a foot massage while unlim- ited food and drinks are brought to your room equipped with TV and DVD. Rooms accommodate up to 6 people, buy dvds from store down the street. +862163400366 / 370 Dagu Lu / 大沽路370号,近成都路

BANYAN TREE SPA Urban oasis on the north Bund, the spa spans three floors with 11 treatment rooms, a beauty salon and nail bar. Embracing the Chinese philosophy of holistic healing, treatments are based on traditional Chinese herbs and natural ingredients. +862125091188 / 1F, Banyan Tree Shanghai, 9 Gongping Lu / 上海外滩悦榕庄虹口区公平路19号,近海平路

THE PENINSULA SPA BY ESPA Elegant neo-classical interior match- es the rest of the iconic hotel, offers relaxing treatments with full use of spa facilities including thermal suite, tropical rain showers, steam and sauna. +8623276599 / The Peninsula, 32 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu / 中山东一路32号,近北京东路

DOUBLE RAINBOW MASSAGE HOUSE No frills, crazy effective blind massage in a communal room, so keep your clothes on. Dirt cheap. +862164734000 / 45 Yongjia Lu / 永嘉路45号,近陕西南路

STRIP/BROWHAUS For that emergency wax/brow session +862164151613 / 85 Wulumuqi Lu / 乌鲁木齐路85号,近安福路 / www.strip-shanghai.cn for more locations

JING THEORY 13 EXPLORE

ROCKBUND MUSEUM Large contemporary art space with no perma- nent collection, but hosts a revolving lineup of excellent contemporary Chi- nese art including Cai Guo-Qiang and Zhen Fanzhi, workshops and events. +862133109985 / 20 Huqiu Lu / 虎丘路20号,近北京东路

SHANGHAI MUSEUM Intimidatingly large museum of ancient Chinese art and relics, the calligraphy section is a highlight. Can be done in a day but warrants multiple visits. +862163723500 / 201 Renmin Da Dao / 上海博物馆,人民大道201号,近黄陂北路

MOCA Surrounded by the lush environs of People’s Park, this floor-to-ceil- ing glass gallery showcases Chinese and international contemporary art and design. +862163271282 / People’s Park, 231 Nanjing Xi Lu / 人民公园,南京西路231号,近黄陂北路

M50 Shanghai’s answer to Beijing’s 798, this creative art district houses sev- eral contemporary Chinese art galleries, cafes and book stores. Of note are photography gallery M97, ShangArt and Art Scene Warehouse. 50 Moganshan Lu / 莫干山路50

DVDs You can stock up on dvds just about anywhere, but one of the biggest and most comprehensive selection is found at Big Movie on Xinle Lu. About 12 rmb a pop. 158 Xinle Lu / 人民公园, 南京西路231号, 近黄陂北路

PURE YOGA High-end yoga chain Pure Yoga has arrived in Shanghai at the glitzy iapm mall, featuring some of the best facilities around, schedule a complimentary trial class. +862154661266 / L6-615, iapm Mall, 999 Huaihai Zhong Lu / 淮海中路999号6楼615座, 近陕西南路

HISTORY & ARCHITECTURE TOUR China scholar for over 30 years, Patrick Cranley gives illuminating tours of Shanghai’s history, architecture and urban development. [email protected]

JING THEORY 14 ROCKBUND Cai Guo-Qiang Peasant Da Vincis

JING THEORY 15 EXPLORE

COOKING CLASSES The Kitchen at Cooking Studio is a charming lane house cooking school teaching regional Chinese dishes. The Academy at The Peninsula Hotel offers a master dumpling class with Head Chef Lei from the excellent Yi Long Court culminating in a luxurious meal. +8621 64332700 / 3F, Bldg 20, 383 Xiangyang Nan Lu / 襄阳南路383弄,20号,3楼,近永嘉路 +8623272888 / The Peninsula, 32 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu / 中山东一路32号,近北京东路

XUHUI RIVERSIDE PARK Glorious mixed-use outdoor space at the south-western end of the Bund. Miles of boardwalk, a skatepark, pop-up art exhibits and a rock climbing wall. Crowded in the summer but pristine and deserted in winter. Frequent haunt of old men with kites. Longteng Avenue & Dongan Lu / 东安路,近龙腾大道

FERRY TO PUDONG The best 2 RMB you can spend. Head to one of the many ferry terminals along the Bund, the one at the end of Fuxing Lu is a good one, and enjoy the scenic 6 minute ride to the other side. 171 Zhongshan Nan Lu / 中山南路171号,近复兴东路

JEWISH TOUR Learn about the little-known but extraordinary Jewish history of Shanghai from guide Dvir Bar-Gal. +8613002146702 / www.shanghai-jews.com

FRENCH CONCESSION There’s no single comprehensive route to take in all of the French Concession, so I list here some of the best streets by area and hope you can spend enough time wandering and exploring on your own. WEST Taian Lu / Xingguo Lu / Hunan Lu / Wukang Lu / Fuxing Lu / Yongfu Lu / Anfu Lu / Wuyuan Lu CENTRAL Yanqing Lu / Donghu Lu / Xinle Lu / Changle Lu / Fuming Lu / Julu Lu / Xiangyang Bei Lu EAST Shanxi Nan Lu / Jinxian Lu / Maoming Nan Lu / Changle Lu SOUTHWEST Yuqing Lu / Xujiahui Park / Hengshan Lu / Gaoan Lu / Yongjia Lu SOUTH Dongping Lu / Yueyang Lu / Taojiang Lu / Fenyang Lu / Yongkang Lu / Jiashan Lu SOUTHEAST Shaoxing Lu / Maoming Lu / Nanchang Lu / Sinan Lu / Taikang Lu / Xintiandi

JING THEORY 16 SHOP

1930 Small store chock full of well-curated art-deco style antique furniture and decor, expect high prices. 29 Tai’an Road / 泰安路29号,进兴国路

NIKE X158 Two-story stark-minimalist Nike concept shop featuring lim- ited editions and Tier-0 products, doubles as event space. 158 Xinle Lu / 新乐路158号,近襄阳北路

10 CORSO COMO Carla Sozzani’s temple of cool has landed in Shang- hai with a behemoth shopping emporium large enough to absorb you for the better part of a day. The original eclectic concept/lifestyle store carries artisanal interior labels Fornasetti and Diptyqe, avant garde fashion names Alaïa, Margiela, and Delfina Delletrez, a gallery space and Italian restaurant. 1717 Nanjing Xi Lu / 南京西路1717号,近同仁路

LANE CRAWFORD Hong Kong’s answer to Saks offers 500+ luxury brands, cosmetics, beauty and personal shopping services. Times Square, 99 Huaihai Zhong Lu / 淮海中路99号,近普安路

IAPM Newest and glitziest Hong Kong shopping mall on the block. Find the biggest labels, imported grocer Citysuper, plus an Imax theatre. But the most exciting part? The restaurant lineup: with Morton’s, Ippudo, Din Tai Fung, Jesse, and Jumbo Chilli Crab amongst others, you might never leave. iapm, 999 Huaihai Lu / 淮海中路999号,陕西南路

SONG FANG MAISON DE THÉ A selection of over 70 fine Chinese and French teas elegantly presented by a Parisian native. Second floor of charming lane house is a relaxed salon to enjoy tea with a selection of delicate house-made desserts. 227 Yongjia Lu / 永嘉路227号,近陕西南路

AEGIS Well curated premium retail shop for the modern fashion-forward man, carrying the likes of Rag & Bone, Band of Outsiders and Opening Cer- emony. 777 Julu Lu / 巨鹿路777号,近富民路

JING THEORY 17 JING THEORY 18 SHOP

EVEN PENNILESS One of the early darlings of China’s contemporary fashion scene, designer Gao Xin’s garments are simplistic, sculptural, and meticulously tailored. 139-3 Changle Rd / 长乐路 139-3号,近瑞金一路

ALTER A multi-brand lifestyle and concept store with a super unique MC Escher-inspired interior. Carries luxe indie-labels the likes of Christopher Kane, Charlotte Olympia and Linda Farrow. Costs a pretty penny. Xintiandi Style, Shop L116, 245 Madang Lu / 马当路245号L116商铺,近自忠路

COTERIE Beautiful concept eye-wear store meticulously designed and cu- rated, carrying the hippest and most original shades on the scene. House of Harlow, Prism, Linda Farrow to name a few. Now open in iapm too. Bldg 9, Lane 741 Julu Lu / 巨鹿路741弄9号,近富民路

DONG LIANG Three story converted lane house showcasing the latest in cutting edge, independent local designers. A must for anyone interested in the Chinese contemporary fashion scene. 184 Fumin Lu / 富民路184号,近长乐路

FACTORY FIVE Shanghai’s first fixed boutique bike shop, they create cus- tom track bikes, recondition Chinese classics, source rare components from all over for unique bespoke builds and ship worldwide. A community hub for fixed gear enthusiasts, hosts a massively popular weekly Tuesday nightride. 1/F, Bdlg 2, 876 Jiangsu Lu / 江苏路876号2号楼1楼,近华山路 / www.wearefactoryfive.com

TRIPLE MAJOR Indie-concept store designed with a calligraphy theme in mind, reflecting its location on literary Shaoxing Road. A nice mix of men and womenswear, accessories and design publications. Bldg 1, Lane 25 Shaoxing Lu / 绍兴路25弄1号,近瑞金二路

BAN YAN KA LA Organic skin and body care products made with holistic, natural ingredients from Tibet, wrapped in pretty, biodegradable packaging. 1221 Changle Lu / 长乐路1221号,近乌鲁木齐北路

JING THEORY 19 SHOP

SOUTH BUND FABRIC MARKET Shop a dizzying array of stalls for wool, silk and cashmere to create your own bespoke garments. Hundreds of tailors and seamstresses will faithfully recreate anything from a picture. Re- member to bargain. 399 Lujiabang Lu / 南外滩轻纺面料市场,陆家浜路399号,近南仓街

UPTOWN RECORDS / DISCO KITTY VINTAGE One of the best record stores in town, this labyrinth of underground rooms carries all genres of vinyl from rock to dub. A room is dedicated to vintage clothing and acces- sories at dirt cheap prices. 115 Pingwu Lu / 平武路115号,近幸福路

ANXI MARKET There’s practically nothing hip, cool or cutting edge about the finds here, characterized by 90’s windbreakers and camp sweaters that delight in their impertinence, but that’s the whole fun of it. 1335 Anshun Lu / 安顺路1335,近凯旋路

SHANGHAI FIRST FOOD STORE Foodie mecca swarming with lo- cals and tourists alike. Buy anything from freshly ground sesame powder to Jinhua ham to sea cucumbers, plus regional delicacies from all over. 720 Nanjing Pedestrian Street / 南京西路720号,近人民广场

MARKETS MARKETS MARKETS Tea, camera equipment, kitchen supplies, electronics, pearls, knockoff bags, clothes, and glasses. You name it, we’ve got it. Here are the best. TIANSHAN TEA CITY 520 Zhongshan Xi Lu / 中山西路520号,近武夷路 XING GUANG CAMERA MARKET 288 Luban Lu / 鲁班路288号,近斜土路 QILONG HOTEL & KITCHEN MARKET 185 Tong Chuan Lu / 铜川路185号,近岚皋路 METRO CITY ELECTRONICS 1111 Zhaojiabang Lu / 美罗城,肇嘉浜路1111号,近天钥桥路 HONQIAO PEARL MARKET 3721 Hongmei Lu / 虹梅路3721号,近延安路 NANJING XI LU FAKE MARKET 580 Nanjing Xi Lu / 南京西路580号,近成都北路 3 YEH OPTICAL MARKET 4-5F, 360 Meiyuan Lu / 梅园路360号,近上海火车站

JING THEORY 20 SHOP

BROMPTON JUNCTION First retail outlet in China for the elegant, handmade British folding bike, customize your own and peruse a selection of branded accessories. 643 Fuxing Zhong Lu / 复兴中路643号,近陕西南路 TIANZIFANG Gentrified arts and crafts enclave developed from old Shikumen houses. Find souveniers, silk scarves, vintage eye wear, posters, knick nacks. Avoid weekends as crowds can be suffocating. 248 Taikang Lu / 田子坊泰康路248弄,近思南路

JING THEORY 21 ESCAPE

ZHUJIAJIAO Ancient water town outside of Shanghai established 1700 years ago. An escape today for young bohemian types from the cities, there are now artsy cafes, bars, and shops lining the old quarter. Renowned com- poser Tan Dun’s experimental music show “Water Heavens” rounds out a day trip. www.shuiyetang.com/en for tickets. Catch 1 hr bus from Puan Lu Station near People’s Sq Metro Exit 1 / 普安路车站,近人民广场

SUZHOU Famed for its beautiful gardens inscribed onto the UNESCO World Heritage List, this water town only a 30 min bullet train from Shang- hai is worth a day trip. LiuYuan and Huqiu gardens are standouts, don’t miss the delicate, ingredient driven cuisine at legendary Wumen Renjia. Bullet train from Shanghai or Shanghai Hongqiao Station, about 30 min +8651267288041 / Wumen Renjia / 31 Pan Ru Xiang, Suzhou / 吴门人家,苏州市平江区潘儒巷31号

MOGANSHAN LE PASSAGE Surrounded by picturesque tea planta- tions and bamboo forests, this family-run French country house revives the savoire vivre of the 1930’s. Relax in the mountain spring pool, pick organic tea from the local plantation, and indulge in rustic French fare. +8618657285900 / Call for pickup from Hangzhou Train Station (40 min bullet train from Shanghai) Deqin County, Moganshan Town, Ziling Village / 浙江省湖州市德清县莫干山镇紫岭村仙人坑茶厂

HANGZHOU FUCHUN RESORT Set amidst a poetic hill-side tea plantation in Hangzhou, Fuchun was inspired by a 13th century painting de- picting the same landscape. Serenity is found in the renowned spa and rolling golf course sculpted into the hills. +86 7163419500 / 339 Hangfu Yanjiang Road, Hangzhou / 杭州市富阳市东洲街道江滨东大道339号

JING THEORY 22 www.jingtheory.com