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Guide to Shanghai GUIDE TO SHANGHAI JING THEORY 1 HE JING THEORY GUIDE is a curated, concise reference to TShanghai, getting straight to the point of what to do, see and eat for lov- ers of food, culture and design. See www.jingtheory.com/shanghaiguide for a Google map of all the recommended spots. WELCOME AIRPORT From Pudong, the Maglev gets you in town at lightning speed. Hop in the subway or cab from there. Hongqiao airport is closer to town and a taxi will run you 60-80 RMB. GETTING AROUND The transit system in Shanghai is one of the finest in the world and anything is accessible by train or bus. Taxis are cheap and plentiful but tough to flag in rain or rush hour. Drivers speak Chinese only, call 96822 for English service. Biking is a great way to see the city, China Cycle Tours ([email protected]) rents by day and delivers straight to your hotel. JING THEORY x UBER Fans of luxury car service Uber rejoice, they’ve landed in Shanghai and are offering new users two free rides up to 200 RMB each with the code ‘jingtheory’. Just download the app to get around in style. WIFI Provided free by most businesses, just ask for the password TOILET PAPER Don’t leave home without it JING THEORY 3 SLEEP THE PULI HOTEL & SPA A peaceful urban resort and spa, an oasis in its bustling city center location. Features a lush garden terrace and one of the best Sunday brunches in town. +862132039999 / 1 Changde Lu / 常德路1号,近延安路 / www.thepuli.com LES SUITES ORIENT Understated luxury on the quieter side of the Bund. Minimalist and functional design, with complimentary breakfast, wifi and snacks all day long. +862163200088 / 1 Jinling Dong Lu / 金陵东路1号,近中山东二路 / www.lessuitesorient.com THE PENINSULA The only new structure built in 70+ years on the Bund, The Peninsula revives classic glamour by blending the history of its landmark location with stunning Art-Deco decor. +862123272888 / 32 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu / 中山东一路32号,近北京东路 / www.peninsula.com LE SUN CHINE The former family estate of a Shanghai flour baron, this Relais & Chateaux property is a hidden gem in the French Concession. 17 rooms dripping with 1930’s style and featuring the only Champagne Salon bar in the city. +862152569977 / 6, Lane 1220, Huashan Lu / 华山路1220弄6号,近湖南路 / www.lesunchine.com JIA SHANGHAI Sister hotel to Philippe Starck-designed Jia Hong Kong, this boutique residence by Yenn Wong strikes the right balance between ‘ho- tel’ and ‘home’. +862162179000 / 931 Nanjing Xi Lu / 南京西路931号,近泰兴路 / www.jiashanghai.com THE WATERHOUSE Industrial-chic boutique hotel designed by archi- tecture power couple Neri&Hu, also houses Jason Atherton’s acclaimed Table No. 1 and a stunning rooftop bar. +862160802988 / 1-3 Maojiayuan Lu / 毛家园路1-3号1楼,近中山南路 / www.waterhouseshanghai.com AIRBNB 1000+ beautiful properties throughout the city, and a great way to experience charming French Concession living. www.airbnb.com JING THEORY 4 JING THEORY 5 EAT OLD JESSE A French Concession institution serving up Shanghainese classics like hongshaorou and crab roe tofu. Only six tables so reservations are essential. Off-the-menu items like cod fish head in scallion oil are pure magic. +862162829260 / 41 Tianping Lu / 天平路41号,近淮海西路 / $$ LIN LONG FANG Sister restaurant to the massively popular Jia Jia Tang Bao, it’s every bit as good but maintains a low profile so you never have to wait in line. Ordered, made, and consumed on the spot, the crab roe and pork xiaolongbao are as good as it gets. 10 Jianguo Dong Lu / 建国东路10号,近肇周路 / $ YANG’S FRY DUMPLINGS Cousin to the xiaolongbao, Shanghai’s home-grown street snack shenjianbao are thick, bready buns pan-fried to perfection, scalding hot and flowing with juices inside. Perpetual cues but worth the wait. 97 Huanghe Lu / 黄河路97号,近凤阳路 / $ MERCATO Jean-Georges’ farm-to-table coastal Italian restaurant is stripped-down, rustic, features the finest seasonal ingredients, and tosses one of the best pizzas in town. Popular for dates and large groups, bookings are essential. +862163219922 / 6/F, 17 Guangdong Lu / 广东路17号,外滩三号6楼,近中山东一路 / $$$$ ULTRAVIOLET The first of its kind in the world, Paul Pairet’s temple to futurist cuisine features multi-sensory technologies that create a “fully immer- sive” dining experience for ten people nightly. Dinner will set you back 2500 RMB, but get in line as seats are booked up three months in advance. Undisclosed location / Online booking only / www.uvbypp.cc / $$$$$ LE SHENG Traditional Shanghainese food with an elegant, contempo- rary presentation. The go-to place for locals wanting comfort classics served in an upscale setting. Tea and cocktail list to match. +862154066011 / 308 Anfu Lu / 安福路308号,近武康路 / $$ JING THEORY 6 JING THEORY 7 EAT LOST HEAVEN Stylized, delicious Yunnan folk cuisine served in an at- mospheric, candle-lit lanehouse in the French Concession. Other location on Bund turns up the glam and has an expansive rooftop bar/lounge. +862164335126 / 38 Gaoyou Lu / 高邮路38号,近复兴西路 / $$ MR & MRS BUND A ‘Modern French Eatery’ by Paul Pairet and Shang- hai’s original late night fine-dining spot. Classy yet relaxed, the music is good and views superb. Interior needs a facelift, but Pairet’s legendary Meunière Truffle Bread keeps them coming back. +862163239898 / 6/F, 18 Zhongshan Dong Yi Lu / 中山东一路18号6楼,近南京东路 / $$$$ FRANCK Intimate bistro long considered best French restaurant in Shang- hai. Tucked away in Ferguson Lane, handwritten chalkboard menu features superlative steak tartare, fish and cote de boeuf. An impressive cellar stores boutique biodynamic wines from Franck Pecol’s travels in France. +8615821676767 / 376 Wukang Lu / 武康路376号,近泰安路 / $$$$ DASHU WUJIE (GREENOLOGY) Thoughtfully executed and beau- tifully presented vegetarian cuisine with knowledgeable waiters taking you through the providence and ethos behind each dish. This is ingredient-driv- en food at its best. 2nd location in Bund 22. +862134692857 / 392 Tianping Lu / 天平路392号,近肇嘉浜路 / $$$ KOTA’S KITCHEN Charming Beatles themed yakitori bar serving up all manner of delicious grilled things and house-made shochus to the soundtrack of Abbey Road and the Yellow Submarine. +8664812005 / 2905 Xietu Lu / 斜土路2905号,近零陵路 / $$ CAFE DAN Tianzifang gem is as religious about its coffee as its Japanese comfort food. The iced latte uses coffee ice cubes to prevent dilution, and the house-made udon is bliss. No. 41, Lane 248 Taikang Lu / 泰康路248弄田子坊41号后门,近思南路 / $$ JING THEORY 8 EAT YAKEXI Festive Xinjiang restaurant showcasing regional Uyghur cuisine. Cumin lamb, tossed breads and noodles among the highlights. Lively music and dancing on second floor. +862162673755 / 379 Xikang Lu / 西康路379号,近武定路 / $$ HAIDILAO The Don of all hotpot chains, these guys are so popular they give free manicures and massages while you wait for a table. Might be the only restaurant in the world to offer live video-conferencing while you eat. Make sure to order the dramatic hand-pulled noodles.Open 24 hours. +862162589750 / 3/F, 1068 Beijing Lu / 北京路1068号,三楼,近江宁路 / $$$ CAPO ‘Basilica’ dining in the attic of a historic building on the Rockbund. Crudo bar and ‘cookhouse’ concept with killer Neopolitan pizzas. The oven was shipped brick by brick from Italy and assembled by artisans from Naples. +862153088332 / 5/F, 99 Beijing Dong Lu / 北京东路99号5楼,近圆明园路 / $$$$ LAN TING Grimy hole in the wall with die-hard local following serving up finger-licking Shanghainese home cooking. Jigujiang, sweet and sticky soy sauce chicken and youbaoxia, flash-fried river shrimp are favourites. 107 Songshan Lu / 嵩山路107号,近太仓路 / $ HENGSHAN CAFE A beloved Cantonese eatery for Hong Kong com- fort classics at great value. Open until 4am, its one of the few places to get great food late at night. Roast meats and daily soups are ace. 308 Hengshan Lu / 衡山路308号,近吴兴路 / $$ CHENG CHENG’S ART SALON One of the most charming and eclec- tic dining rooms in the city, this Shanghainese restaurant also serves as an art gallery. Food is great but decor and serveware even better. +862153065462 / 164 Nanchang Lu / 南昌路164号,近思南路 / $$$ JING THEORY 9 FUEL 1984 BOOKSTORE & CAFÉ Hidden café with a quiet courtyard and several tables to do work or meet over coffee. Old Shanghai decor and warm wooden hues create an atmospheric escape in the French Concession. 11 Hunan Lu / 湖南路11号,近武康路 FARINE Artisanal bakery by Franck Pecol offering premium coffee, breads and pastries with prices to match. Ferguson Lane, 1/F, 378 Wukang Lu / 武康路378号1楼,近泰安路 OLD CHINA HAND READING ROOM Quiet library and cafe on Sha- oxing Road, literary quarter of old Shanghai. Oozes charm and atmosphere. 27 Shaoxing Lu / 绍兴路27号,近陕西南路 SUMERIAN Friendly and relaxed coffee shop in Jing’an roasting its own beans daily and carrying single origin coffees from Sumatra, Oaxaca, Ethio- pia and Tanzania. Offers cupping classes by appointment. 415 Shanxi Bei Lu / 陕西北路415号,近北京西路 CAFE DAN See “Eat” SONG FANG MAISON DE THÉ See “Shop” SINMEI TEA Hong Kong import in a cozy space on Shaoxing Lu special- izing in Japanese matcha green tea beverages, snacks and desserts. 35-10 Shaoxing Lu / 绍兴路35－10号 CAFÉ DEL VOLCÁN Boutique shoebox-sized coffee shop on Yongkang Lu that roasts its own beans and offers single origin and signature blends from around the world. Great design and service. 80 Yongkang Lu / 永康路80号,近襄阳路 C-STORE / LAWSONS In the competitive sea of convenience stores pro- liferating on Shanghai’s streets, C-Store and Lawsons have come up on top, with affordable Illy coffee and imported drinks/snacks among the offerings. Everywhere JING THEORY 10 JING THEORY 11 DRINK SENATOR’S SALOON Atmospheric craft cocktail bar harking back to prohibition-era speakeasies. Dim, wooden interior with gilded ceilings and intimate booths make for a cozy date spot. Killer bourbon cocktails. +862154231330 / 98 Wuyuan Lu / 五原路98号,近乌鲁木齐中路 SOUTHERN CROSS Low-key Japanese whiskey bar in an old French Concession house with great service and high standards for craft cocktails.
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