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Recession Chic PLUS OBAMA-MANIA ARMANI IN NEW YORK DONATELLA VERSACE CHRISTIAN AUDIGIER BEST NEW DENIM & TRADE SHOW SCOOP FROM FLORENCE, NEW YORK AND WWD LAS VEGAS MEN’S COLLECTIONS Recession Chic Selling Luxury in Hard Times THE DECADENT VISION OF JOHN GALLIANO Christopher Bailey REDEFINES BRITISH ELEGANCE THE TRENDS DOUBLE-BREASTED SUITS WINTER WHITE BELTED COATS TURTLENECK KNITS CONTOURED SEAMS ZIPPER PLAY Lanvin lights up the Paris runways. DISPLAY UNTIL SEPTEMBER 15, 2009 $6.00 FALL ’09 0316.MENSMAG.001.Cover;13.indd 1 3/10/09 1:57:10 PM NEW YORK | LONDON | TOKYO | SWISSARMY.COM NEW YORK | LONDON | TOKYO | SWISSARMY.COM DIRECTION retro sunglasses and pops of color MONTBLANC GUCCI 1.800.365.7989 NEIMANMARCUS.COM Backstage at DSquared. ON THE COVER A look from Lanvin photographed by For full collections Stephane Feugere. coverage, go to WWD.com 13 REDEFINING LUXE 42 CHECK MATE 56 NEW BLUE Designers rethink their values during men’s Burberry designer Christopher Bailey refl ects on the Seven key denim trends for fall ’09. fashion weeks in Milan, Paris and New York. art of disheveled elegance. By David Lipke By Jean Scheidnes By Jean Scheidnes 58 WALE WATCH 18 DEFINING MOMENTS 44 A DELICATE BALANCE Corduroy and astrakhan stand out as key From Armani’s newest fl agship to Levi’s oldest Alber Elbaz and Lucas Ossendrijver, the duo behind materials for fall. jeans, highlights from the runways and trade shows. Lanvin, break though in the City of Light. By Suzanne Blecher By Emilie Marsh 27 TRENDS 59 JUST SUIT ME Double-breasted suits come on strong, as do 45 THE VERSACE MAN European designers and men’s wear brands turtlenecks, rounded shoulders, belted coats and Donatella and men’s wear designer Alexandre renew their emphasis on tailored clothing. bold zippers. Plokhov elevate sex appeal with precise tailoring. By Emilie Marsh By Alessandra Ilari 34 ACCESSORIES 60 BACKSTAGE PASS Large bags, bold shoes and extra-long scarves 46 FALL ESSENTIALS A behind-the-scenes look at the creative forces become the focal point of many fall outfi ts. More than 100 must-haves from men’s wear trade behind the men’s collections. shows in Florence, Paris, New York and Las Vegas. 38 THE MAN AND THE MYTHS 62 FACE TIME An insider’s perspective as John Galliano prepares 54 LE VIF The top 10 newcomers who emerged on for his brilliantly subversive Paris show. That’s the nickname of Christian Audigier, this season’s runways. By Miles Socha the marketing wizard behind Ed Hardy. It means By Jean Scheidnes “the fast one.” By Andrew Harmon PHOTO BY DAVE YODER DAVE PHOTO BY WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2009 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. MARCH 16, 2009, VOLUME 197, NO. 55. WWD is published daily except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in January, May, October, November and December, two additional issues in March, April, June, and August, and three additional issues in February and September by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; 0316.MENSMAG.006.TOC.a;13.indd 1 3/10/09 4:43:40 PM www.armanicollezioni.com Published by Fairchild Fashion Group, a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 EDWARD NARDOZA, Editor in Chief JAMES FALLON, Editor JOHN BIRMINGHAM, Consulting Editor DIANNE M. POGODA, Managing Editor, Fashion/Special Reports MILES SOCHA, European Editor JEAN PALMIERI, Senior Editor ALEX BADIA, Men’s Fashion Editor DAVID LIPKE, Senior Editor JEAN SCHEIDNES, Men’s Designer Sportswear Editor BRENNER THOMAS, Market Editor, Men’s Tailored Clothing, Outerwear LUIS CAMPUZANO, Assistant Fashion Editor ETTA FROIO, Contributing Senior Executive Editor JOHN B. FAIRCHILD, Contributing Editor at Large WWD.COM AMY DITULLIO, Managing Editor Bruno Navarro (News Editor); Véronique Hyland (Associate Editor, Fashion); Lauren Benet Stephenson (Associate Editor, Beauty/Lifestyle) BUREAUS Milan: Alessandra Ilari (Bureau Chief); Luisa Zargani, Andrew Roberts, Vanessa Silva; London: Samantha Conti (Bureau Chief); Nina Jones, Louise Bartlett; Paris: Jennifer Weil (Beauty), Ellen Groves (Sportswear), Laurent Folcher, Katya Foreman, Chantal Goupil, Emilie Marsh, Natasha Camilla Montrose (Web Reporter/Editor); Tara Bonet-Black (Editorial Assistant, New York) LAYOUT/COPYDESK PETER SADERA, Copy Chief MAUREEN MORRISON, Deputy Copy Chief LISA KELLY, Senior Copy Editor ADAM PERKOWSKY, KIM ROMAGNUOLO, SARAH PROTZMAN, Copy Editors ART DEPARTMENT ANDREW FLYNN, Group Art Director ERIC PERRY, Art Director SHARON BER, AMY LOMACCHIO, Associate Art Directors COURTNEY MITCHELL, Designer TYLER RESTY, Art Assistant PHOTOGRAPHY ANITA BETHEL, Director Pasha Antonov, John Aquino, Delphine Achard, Stephano Bianchi, Talaya Centeno, George Chinsee, Thierry Chomel, Steve Eichner, Kyle Ericksen, Stéphane Feugère, Giovanni Giannoni, Thomas Iannaccone, Tim Jenkins, Davide Maestri, Dominique Maître, Mauricio Miranda, Robert Mitra, Kristen Somody Whalen, Dave Yoder PHOTO CARRIE PROVENZANO, Photo Editor CARTER LOVE, ASHLEY LINN MARTIN, Photo Coordinators BUSINESS JOHN COSCIA, Editorial Business Director CHAIRMAN AND EDITORIAL DIRECTOR PATRICK MCCARTHY 00316.MENSMAG.008(9).masthead.NEW;7.indd316.MENSMAG.008(9).masthead.NEW;7.indd 1 33/10/09/10/09 112:16:262:16:26 PM BOSS 0239/S BOSS Black HUGO BOSS FASHIONS INC. Phone +1 212 940 0600 www.hugoboss.com Published by Fairchild Fashion Group, a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc., 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017 CHRISTINE GUILFOYLE, Publisher ADVERTISING ED HECHT, Associate Publisher JOEL FERTEL, Associate Publisher, Innerwear/Legwear/Textile DALE REICH, Associate Publisher, Media & Trade Shows TIA POTTER, Associate Publisher, Technology DEBRA GOLDBERG, Associate Publisher, Beauty LISA ENGERT, Executive Director, Fine Jewelry JENNIFER FISHMAN, Executive Fashion Director JANINE MARKS, Account Director JENNIFER MARDER, Associate Publisher, Accessories ELIZABETH DETMER, Beauty Director TRACY HADEL, Account Director BRETT MITCHELL, Executive Director of International Fashion REGIONAL OFFICES DEBORAH LEVY, Senior Account Manager, West Coast, 323-965-7283 RON TROXELL, West Coast Director, 323-965-7285 SUSAN SMITH, 770-992-3259 INTERNATIONAL OFFICES GUGLIELMO BAVA, Advertising Director, Italy, 011-3902-6558-4225 OLGA KOUZNETSOVA, Account Manager, Italy, 011-3902-6558-4224 GIULIA SQUERI, Account Manager, Italy, 011-3902-6558-4236 ODILE EDA-PIERRE, Account Manager, Paris, 011-331-4451-1290 MARKETING/PROMOTION JODI MARCHISOTTA, Associate Publisher DANIELLE MCMURRAY, Creative Services Director KATIE MCKENNA, Brand Development Director JAIME HOLLANDER, Senior Marketing Manager BRIDGIT KEARNS, Marketing Manager HILLARY TOWNSEND, Online Marketing Manager TING WANG, Promotions Manager BENJAMIN GELINAS, Design Director MARK RAMEL, Design Manager DIANE HUNTLEY, Copy Director CARA CLINTON, Promotions Editor STEPHANIE BROWN, Promotions Assistant BUSINESS GROUP GREGORY REMILLARD, General Manager, Fairchild Online DREW DIX, Executive Sales Director, Classified, Fairchild Fashion Group RICHARD CHERICHELLA, Business Director, Fairchild Fashion Group KAREN CHIU, Business Manager, Fairchild Fashion Group JANET JANOFF, General Manager, WWD RON WILSON, Director of European Operations COLLEEN COMPSTON, Executive Coordinator WWD.COM STEVEN SOTTILE, Digital Director ADVERTISING ASSISTANTS Nicole Doucette, Rebecca Buckley, Colleen Cammarano, Irene Eng, Tina Schlissel, Michele Sutton, Joyce Graham, Pascale Rajac, Emanuela Altimani, Cinzia Maggiolini PRODUCTION GENA KELLY, Executive Director, Manufacturing and Distribution CHRIS WENGIEL, Group Production Director KEVIN HURLEY, Production Director JILL BREINER, Associate Production Manager AHMED PRUITT, Production Coordinator MICHAEL WAGNER, Senior B2B Distribution Manager CIRCULATION AP DUFFY, Circulation Marketing Director JOHN CROSS, Fulfillment Director JAMES ROSSI, Marketing Director RICHARD FRANZ, Circulation Sales Director TO DIAL DEPTS. DIRECT AREA CODE 212 News: 630-3500 Fashion: 630-3535 Display Advertising: 630-4600 Classified Advertising: 630-4610 Individual Subscriptions and Single Copy Sales: 800-289-0273; Foreign Subscribers (outside the U.S.) 818-487-4526 Fax number 818-487-4550. Group Subscriptions: 790-4457; Subscription orders can be faxed to 790-1868 Production: 630-4475 Editorial Reprints: SCOOP Reprint Source, 949-453-4680 FAIRCHILD OFFICES ATLANTA 30305: 3500 Piedmont Rd., N.E., Suite 505, 404-926-3535. CHICAGO 60611: 875 N. Michigan Ave., Suite 1410, 312-649-6539. DALLAS 75207: 2730 Stemmons Fwy., Suite 211, 214-630-5461. LONDON WC2: Samantha Conti, 20 Shorts Garden, WC2H 9AU, 441-0171-240-0420. LOS ANGELES 90048: 6300 Wilshire Blvd., Suite 720, 323-965-7280. MILAN 20121: Piazza Cavour 2, 011-39-02-6558-4201. PARIS 75008: 9 Rue Royale, 331-4-451-1300. WASHINGTON 20036: 1050 17th St., N.W., Suite 600 202-496-4975. FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP DANIEL LAGANI, President 00316.MENSMAG.008(9).masthead.NEW;7.indd316.MENSMAG.008(9).masthead.NEW;7.indd 2 33/10/09/10/09 112:16:352:16:35 PM PHOTOGRAPHED BY BOB KRIEGER PHOTOGRAPHED NEW YORK, 29W 57TH STREET 7TH FLOOR, NEW YORK, N.Y. 10019 - TEL. +1 212 7518585 TEL. 10019 - N.Y. YORK, NEW 29W 57TH STREET 7TH FLOOR, YORK, NEW PAL ZILERI SHOWROOM ZILERI SHOWROOM PAL PAL ZILERI SHOP
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