Food Products Such As Quince of a Modern Approach to Cooking

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Cathy Boirac Editor-in-chief [email protected]

Editor-in-chief Advertising Awards Subscription: Cathy Boirac CEDISA Gold Ladle in the Best Food Spain Gourmetour is a publication Publication Coordinators [email protected] Magazine category, at the 2010 of the Spanish Institute for Foreign Le Cordon Bleu World Food Trade (ICEX) of the State Secretary Almudena Martín Rueda D.L.: M-45307-1990 Almudena Muyo Media Awards. for Trade and Tourism, Ministry of ISSN: 0214-2937 Communications Award Industry, Tourism and Trade. Photographic Archive The magazine is issued three times Mabel Manso NIPO: 705-11-023-2 “Best Journalistic Work” from Alimentos de España, a year in English, French, German and Spanish, and is distributed free Editorial Secretary Cover 2006, Ministry of the Environment of charge to trade professionals. Ángela Castilla Juan M. Sanz/©ICEX and Rural and Marine Affairs. If you want to subscribe to Spain Design and Art Direction Information and Publisher Marqués de Busianos Award Gourmetour, please contact the Manuel Estrada Design ICEX from the Royal Spanish Academy Economic and Commercial Maps State Secretary for Trade and of Gastronomy. Ofﬁces at the Embassies of Spain Javier Belloso Tourism, Ministry of Industry, “La Gula y Bachiller en Fogones (see list on page 108). Tourism and Trade. 1998” Award from El Nuevo Lunes, The opinions expressed by Color Separations www.icex.es a Spanish weekly economic publication. Espacio y Punto the authors of the articles are Design Award from the Spanish not necessarily shared by Printed in Spain Association of Design the Spanish Institute for Foreign Artes Gráﬁcas Palermo Professionals (AEDP),1995. Trade (ICEX), which cannot Spanish Food Journalism Award, be held responsible for any 1990, Ministry of the Environment omissions or errors in the text. and Rural and Marine Affairs.

Printed on PEFC-certified Special Gastronomy Award paper to promote the from the Fine Cuisine Association responsible management and the Royal Spanish Academy of our forests. of Gastronomy,1988. 02_AF_SUMARIO.qxd 1/11/11 23:15 Página 2

SPAIN GOURMETOUR January-April 2012 No. 84 S T N

E Editorial ...... 1 Food Basics Colophon Garlic. The Purple Rose Have a Spanish Break! Colors of La Mancha...... 48 Rosa María González Different by Design...... 8 Recipes ...... 60 from Panama ...... 98 T Turrón Temptations. Wines Regular Features All Year Long ...... 66 Lasting Impressions ...... 100 DO Toro. Recipes ...... 80 Taming the Bull ...... 22 Ad Index ...... 102 Credits...... 104 Pulling the Cork on Site. Close-up Exporters...... 106 N Wine Tourism in Spain .....34 Manuel de la Osa ...... 84 Spain Overseas ...... 108

Business Watch The Lore of the Land. Grandes Pagos O de España ...... 92 C

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SPAIN GOURMETOUR January-April 2012 No. 84 S T N

Business Watch The Lore of the Land. Grandes Pagos O de España ...... 92 C

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Different by Any brand with its sights set on the market’s upper reaches needs the magnetic pulling power that the right container and packaging exert. The way our products are perceived—their image—is largely dependent on the messages that their packaging sends out. Good design deploys innovation, sustainability and creativity to ensure that a brand’s image is coherent and effective through and through. Spanish design, respected worldwide and with a clutch of awards to prove it, is something of a pace- DESIGN setter in this field. You’ll see what I mean…

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TEXT GLORIA ESCRIBANO/©ICEX

PHOTOS JUAN M. SANZ/©ICEX

TRANSLATION HAWYS PRITCHARD/©ICEX

For the most part, the products we originality (assuming, of course, The simpler, use come in containers that become raw material of a certain quality part and parcel of our daily lives, in the first place). Renovation the better an ingredient in our common and adaptability are essentials for Lluís Morillas, head of Morillas cultural heritage. The brand any firm aiming to compete in a Brand Design, believes that reinforces this effect, taking on global market. A word of warning, originality is at a premium these comfortable familiarity as time goes however: old doesn’t always mean days “…and a rational approach by. Good packaging, in essence an valuable any more than new even more so. We need to connect exercise in communication, should is always best. The fact is that with the consumer sincerely and be evocative not only of good taste, companies have accepted that good openly, letting the packaging reflect but also of experiences and packaging scores plus points the importance of R&D (research emotional responses. and recognized that image is an and development),” he explains. Spanish brands have demonstrated extra factor that has been decisive “A product should emanate their grasp of this principle by in consolidating their position. security and reliability—properties harnessing design to tell the world Current trends? The general public that strategically cut through who they are and what they do. and sector professionals will tell formally imposed obstacles This in itself functions as an you there are lots; meanwhile, to communication.” introductory calling card: design on the strength of a swift fact- This is an area in which Spain encapsulates an approach to life, finding tour of some of the flagship has extended itself, learning a mindset, a communicative style. firms in Spain’s food and gourmet the differentiating potential of It’s a broad gesture whose effects sector, I’m in a position to report design in the process and putting are felt culturally as well that we are among the leaders in that knowledge into practice with as commercially. this field, and that the creativity considerable success. Morillas is We should remember, too, that and originality that good design convinced that Spanish attitudes periods of crisis can spur us on entails add to the pleasure and lifestyle equip Spaniards with a to greater feats of creativity and of sitting down to eat. particularly sensitive understanding

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TEXT GLORIA ESCRIBANO/©ICEX

PHOTOS JUAN M. SANZ/©ICEX

TRANSLATION HAWYS PRITCHARD/©ICEX

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of other cultures, and that this The accompanying graphics are and almost a century of family 30, just starting to get interested strong points. Apart from making quality is recognized abroad: simple, retaining time-honored tradition. Three generations of in food, with a reasonably-priced, aesthetic, rational and functional “We’re good at keeping up with traditional elements and the same family have devoted their attractively-designed can improvements to the company’s what’sgoing on at a global emphasizing the name to the full careers to canning and bottling containing a quality product that range of containers, it tried to give level while retaining an affinity by fine-tuning the typeface, colors, the fresh products of Galicia’s fjord- is a cut above the average greater prominence to the with local cultures.” highlighting and finishing touches. like rías. The Peña family’s products supermarket purchase. “Customers trademark on the actual packaging, This proactive attitude is The response was instantaneous: appear under three different brand will buy this range both for its simplifying some features, changing exemplified by Ibérico charcuterie to see one is to want one. At the names, each aimed at a different quality and its stylishness,” colors and typefaces and using the company Cinco Jotas (5J), in whose moment, the product is on the customer catchment, and all having observes José Peña proudly. face in close-up on containers to redesigned image Morillas was market in 37 countries and can recently undergone an image create a more memorable graphic involved. The colored icons of the be sampled from Shanghai, Japan, update. I study all three and detect identity. A visit to the Carmencita Traditional website, which has also been original packaging were changed, Hong Kong, Brazil, and the US a common thread, subtle but updated, revealed cleaner lines, limiting the palette to just red and to almost anywhere in Europe. effective: Real Conservera Española and modern more dynamic use of design and gold to give this top-flight gourmet It’s stocked by the world’s poshest distinguishes the premium segment Combining past and present is never interesting and easily accessible product the upmarket look it gourmet shops, including with a stylishly evocative logo easy. The Manuel Estrada design information. The overall result merits, while also making it more City’super in China, Harrods in the based on the initials JP; José Peña, studio (which designs this is a delicately modern take on the immediately identifiable at points UK and Volpetti in Rome. Thanks meanwhile, features a sleeve magazine) had to do just that when company’s traditional image, of sale. Appealing little box-shaped to this and other initiatives, Cinco designed with reference to the it accepted the brief of updating retaining its essential characteristics Jotas’ exports now account for packs containing Ibérico ham original graphics used on canned Carmencita, a company that has with admirable restraint. hand-cut into slices and chunks, 15% of its total sales. and bottled products in the early been dealing in spices for over 90 Manuel Estrada points out that, th and even ham bones (as called for I note that Galician canning and 20 century, a clever choice and years. Though at ﬁrst sight one memorable image that it has helped speciﬁcally in the food sector, “the by so many traditional recipes) bottling company Real Conservera nicely done. The third brand, might describe it as classic and the company become more widely need to attract as much attention were an inspired idea: they were Española of Cambados, Pontevedra, Peñita, aimed at a younger, bar- traditional, the company’s trademark known without needing to advertise as possible has the frequent effect designed as a “starter pack” for is adopting a similar approach, going, tapas-seeking public, uses (a head-and-shoulders view of a girl with that end in view. of products and containers being countries unfamiliar with Ibérico namely using its image—simple bright colors and understated retro with a curl falling across her When the Manuel Estrada studio created in apparent ignorance of the ham and how to slice it—an art and direct—to evoke quality. design features likely to appeal to forehead, wearing a Manila shawl took on the job of updating fact that screeching for attention form in itself and essential to full In this case, the company can this target group. The idea is to and Cordoban hat) is such an Carmencita’s image, it opted for simply doesn’t work. Consumers enjoyment of all its subtle qualities. capitalize on a famous name, Peña, provide young people aged 25 to approachable and eminently reinforcing the brand’s existing these days are better informed than

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SPAIN GOURMETOUR January-April 2012 No. 84 S T

ever before, and any design in mind, using drawings against in getting the desired message being innovative and our image has design scheme that presents these buy it more for the packaging than N approach must seek to communicate a white background, good across. Sosa Ingredients is a case to reflect that,” he says emphatically. products and what they do in a for the product itself!” with them in ways that are photographs of each product, in point: this firm works closely Another project with its origins in clear, functional way.” Galician company Porto-Muiños attractive, coherent and sincere. and featuring the brand logo with top-flight restaurants to create the Spanish food world is Texturas Flor del Delta, another upmarket (Spain Gourmetour No. 72) The ﬁrst principle when designing frequently and prominently. products that improve flavors, Albert y Ferrán Adrià, whose brand of cooking ingredients, is the provides another example. It, too, a container is to be honest about This approach could be said to aromas and textures. It has also design is also based on color- brainchild of Joan Roca, needed to navigate a route into the what it contains. It’s not just typify the dominant trend at theE launched the Home Chef range codingEditorial and...... 1 product photographs. Foodpropr ietor/chefBasics of the 3-Michelin- Colophongourmet market for an innovative an aesthetic principle, it makes moment: providing information of gastronomic ingredients, The aim in this case is to express Garlic.star restaurant The Purple El Celler Rose de Can Havefoodstuf a Spanishf by persuading Break! consumers sound commercial sense too.” and showing contents, against presented in smaller formats and Colorsthe notion of a “natural product” to ofRoca,La Manchain Girona,...... 48 whose reputation Rosato give María it a go. González The company backgrounds uncluttered by Another adherent to these aimed at a wider public. “We spent Difcontrastferent conceptually by Design...... 8 with the Recipeshas been...... 60 capitalized on to promote frspecializesom Panama in edible...... 98 seaweeds— anything other than a plain and principles is Santa Teresa, T a lot of money on giving the high-tech methods used to create this product. He has personally very healthy greens indeed. The simple picture of the product and a company that produces product an image that was as this range of state-of-the-art Tucreatedrrón Tblendsemptations. of 100% natural Regularentire range Featur is presesented in intrinsically expressive and Wines and markets a wide range of attractive as possible and suggestive gourmet products such as gelifiers, AllMediterranean Year Long ...... 66flor de sal sea salt impeccably designed and produced evocative typography. That said, DO Toro. Lasting Impressions ...... 100 agri-food products such as quince of a modern approach to cooking. spherifiers, thickeners, emulsifiers Recipes(Spain Gour...... 80metour No. 76), rich in bags that come inside a cardboard however, not all products send Taming the Bull ...... 22 Ad Index ...... 102 paste, cold soups, sweets, oils Whatever it cost to make and freeze-dried ingredients. minerals and oligoelements, with Crpackageedits...... 104 whose color-coding out the same message in the same and prepared meals. It, too, consumers aware of what we are Catalan company Sol Graells Close-upvarious spices. Packets of four Exportersindicates its...... 106 contents; another way. Just as wine labels designed Pulling the Cork on Site. has undergone an image update N all about was money well spent,” handles the worldwide distribution Manueldifferent deflavors la Osa of salt...... 84 are tucked Spainformat Overseas is an attractive...... 108 lidded to toy with conventions (Spain Wine Tourism in Spain .....34 and provides an interesting case declares proprietor Quico Sosa. of Texturas; Juan Dávila of Cosmic into aluminum cans which provide cardboard box of assorted Gourmetour No. 76) paved the study. A family firm ready for And it shows: jars and packets have design studio in Barcelona is a silvery background for simple, products. “We wanted a container way for a freer, more creative Business Watch expansion, it retained its traditional clean-cut, well thought-out labels responsible for its image design. exclusively typographical, color- that used gentle colors and simple approach, gourmet products seem The Lore of the Land. name and image while modernizing and are color-coded according “Spain’s gourmet sector has grown coded labels. It couldn’t be simpler, lines, with plenty of white, to in the last few years to have Grandes Pagos

its design and extending its product O to product; the company website and matured a lot in recent years but this sort of simplicity wins communicate the dedication we demonstrated a notable preference de España ...... 92 ranges. Having identified its is stylish and highly informative, for doing things differently. and it is still hugely dynamic,” prizes, specifically the Liderpack put into our products. At first we notional typical customer as a as are its catalogues, which feature comments Dávila. “In this specific Award at the International met with opposition from head reasonably-to-very well-off bon over 1,500 products. Sosa and case, innovative products are Packaging Exhibition, Hispack, in buyers and departmental managers viveur with a preference for good Gourmet world his staff are convinced that matched by attractive, quality 2010. Flor del Delta’s cutting-edge who suggested that we should do

quality health-enhancing products, When it comes to marketing C design is “the only way of being packaging and well-expressed container and contents achieve everything in black or dark green, the firm’s modernized image was hitherto unfamiliar products, properly prepared for the wider customer information and their impact without further help. which they claimed was the “in designed with these requirements design has an essential role to play market. We make our living by instructions within an overall Antoni Terradas reports: “People thing”. But we had other ideas, and

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ever before, and any design in mind, using drawings against in getting the desired message being innovative and our image has design scheme that presents these buy it more for the packaging than approach must seek to communicate a white background, good across. Sosa Ingredients is a case to reflect that,” he says emphatically. products and what they do in a for the product itself!” with them in ways that are photographs of each product, in point: this firm works closely Another project with its origins in clear, functional way.” Galician company Porto-Muiños attractive, coherent and sincere. and featuring the brand logo with top-flight restaurants to create the Spanish food world is Texturas Flor del Delta, another upmarket (Spain Gourmetour No. 72) The ﬁrst principle when designing frequently and prominently. products that improve flavors, Albert y Ferrán Adrià, whose brand of cooking ingredients, is the provides another example. It, too, a container is to be honest about This approach could be said to aromas and textures. It has also design is also based on color- brainchild of Joan Roca, needed to navigate a route into the what it contains. It’s not just typify the dominant trend at the launched the Home Chef range coding and product photographs. proprietor/chef of the 3-Michelin- gourmet market for an innovative an aesthetic principle, it makes moment: providing information of gastronomic ingredients, The aim in this case is to express star restaurant El Celler de Can foodstuff by persuading consumers sound commercial sense too.” and showing contents, against presented in smaller formats and the notion of a “natural product” to Roca, in Girona, whose reputation to give it a go. The company Another adherent to these backgrounds uncluttered by aimed at a wider public. “We spent contrast conceptually with the has been capitalized on to promote specializes in edible seaweeds— principles is Santa Teresa, anything other than a plain and a lot of money on giving the high-tech methods used to create this product. He has personally very healthy greens indeed. The simple picture of the product and a company that produces product an image that was as this range of state-of-the-art created blends of 100% natural entire range is presented in intrinsically expressive and and markets a wide range of attractive as possible and suggestive gourmet products such as gelifiers, Mediterranean flor de sal sea salt impeccably designed and produced evocative typography. That said, agri-food products such as quince of a modern approach to cooking. spherifiers, thickeners, emulsifiers (Spain Gourmetour No. 76), rich in bags that come inside a cardboard however, not all products send paste, cold soups, sweets, oils Whatever it cost to make and freeze-dried ingredients. minerals and oligoelements, with package whose color-coding out the same message in the same and prepared meals. It, too, consumers aware of what we are Catalan company Sol Graells various spices. Packets of four indicates its contents; another way. Just as wine labels designed has undergone an image update all about was money well spent,” handles the worldwide distribution different flavors of salt are tucked format is an attractive lidded to toy with conventions (Spain and provides an interesting case declares proprietor Quico Sosa. of Texturas; Juan Dávila of Cosmic into aluminum cans which provide cardboard box of assorted Gourmetour No. 76) paved the study. A family firm ready for And it shows: jars and packets have design studio in Barcelona is a silvery background for simple, products. “We wanted a container way for a freer, more creative expansion, it retained its traditional clean-cut, well thought-out labels responsible for its image design. exclusively typographical, color- that used gentle colors and simple approach, gourmet products seem name and image while modernizing and are color-coded according “Spain’s gourmet sector has grown coded labels. It couldn’t be simpler, lines, with plenty of white, to in the last few years to have its design and extending its product to product; the company website and matured a lot in recent years but this sort of simplicity wins communicate the dedication we demonstrated a notable preference ranges. Having identified its is stylish and highly informative, for doing things differently. and it is still hugely dynamic,” prizes, specifically the Liderpack put into our products. At first we notional typical customer as a as are its catalogues, which feature comments Dávila. “In this specific Award at the International met with opposition from head reasonably-to-very well-off bon over 1,500 products. Sosa and case, innovative products are Packaging Exhibition, Hispack, in buyers and departmental managers viveur with a preference for good Gourmet world his staff are convinced that matched by attractive, quality 2010. Flor del Delta’s cutting-edge who suggested that we should do quality health-enhancing products, When it comes to marketing design is “the only way of being packaging and well-expressed container and contents achieve everything in black or dark green, the firm’s modernized image was hitherto unfamiliar products, properly prepared for the wider customer information and their impact without further help. which they claimed was the “in designed with these requirements design has an essential role to play market. We make our living by instructions within an overall Antoni Terradas reports: “People thing”. But we had other ideas, and

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If the Romantic travelers of the 19th century were to retrace their route through Spain today, would they still complain that it smells too much of garlic? Like it or not, Spain is one of the five main producers of garlic in the world, and in this issue we introduce you to the delights of a particular species, grown in the land of Don Quixote. Turrón is another thoroughly Spanish specialty; although other countries produce ersatz versions of it, the true, genuine article is certainly “made in Spain”. The turrón we know and love here, and eat particularly to celebrate Christmas and the New Year, is currently acquiring even more devotees as it conquers new horizons. A growing number of foreign visitors to Spain are showing an interest in gastronomic now many others seem to have talking, not beating around the countries has increased fivefold. packaging alone. “We decided to effort into finding out who buys Breaking tourism. Many of our regions have a great deal to offer by way of wines and plenty adopted our approach,” recounts bush. And changing it can be a And that’snot all: in the next impose a total ban on illustrations our products. The packaging has of opportunities to sample them in situ and explore the local artistic and historical manager Antonio Muiños. Response with the past radical gesture. When La Catedral two years, we expect our exports and engravings of the sort used been so important and has heritage in the process. to both product and packaging has de Navarra decided the time had to go up 300%: that’s a big so often in classic food packaging, generated so much publicity for us Many designers look on typography One winegrowing region well worth making a detour to visit is Toro. Despite been excellent (and the packaging come for a new corporate image, increase, especially when you the ‘grandma’s home cooking’ that importers seek us out. If we’d as the keystone of all projects. a name suggestive of another iconic symbol of Spain, Toro also stands for wines, has been featured in one of the their intention was “to make a clean take into account that foreign aesthetic,” explains Pepe Gimeno, had to spend on advertising, Clear, rounded, simple, unadorned and prestigious ones at that. As, indeed, does the Grandes Pagos de España world’s leading specialist packaging break, not just with our previous sales represent less than 10% who is a great believer in taking the outlay would have been lettering can express strength and association, whose member bodegueros (some of the biggest names in Spanish blogs, thedieline.com). The design image but with the predominant of the total for this brand.” a radical approach when dealing a lot more,” confirms Minguet. sobriety. It stands for straight winegrowing) produce world-class estate wines. also appears prominently in a book with a sector that can be “…rather This same radical attitude is in design approach in the sector as a The Arroces Sivaris story is tooThis first issue of 2012 also brings you a report on the selling power of design: entitled Basic Pack, published by timid. Good packaging can be evidence at LA Organic, the organic whole. We were the first company good to leave out. It has becomewe learn how certain brands (just a few examples—there are many more) graphic design specialist Index clever and operate on much the extra virgin olive by La Amarilla de in the canned and bottled vegetable famous for its packaging design,achieved impressive growth in international sales by making design work for them. Book. The demand for seaweed has same level as communication Ronda, a product that bears the sector to move away from that which has won many awards bothOh yes! By the way: should you happen to be in Panama around the festive season, risen by 30% in the last year and design. Whereas it’s true that a joint signatures of Pedro Gómez often over-the-top traditional in Spain and abroad: the Liderthispack issue’s Have a Spanish Break recommendation sounds like just our kind of place: Muiños and his team are convinced brand provides a product with de Baeza and celebrity designer image: all ochre colors, medieval- Award in 2006, the Spanish great wine list, fusion tapas… that they have their image to thank looking typefaces and pictures of Association of Design Professionals continuity, I’m convinced that Philippe Starck, with Michelle for at least some of that. parchment scrolls,” explains Cayo (AEPD) Prize in 2007, the Anuaria packaging is more important.” For Roland as advisor. “When we Martínez, manager of this company Prize for Packaging in 2007, theCathy BoiracMiguel Minguet, a member of this started La Amarilla, our intention located in the Ebro Valley, Navarre, World Stars for Packaging in 2007,Editor-in-chieffamily business, the key to success was to give Spanish olive oil the an area famous for top-quality the Certificate of [email protected] this area is for industry and design it deserved so that Spain vegetables, some with designation Excellence in 2008 (awarded by the designers to understand each other. could become a contender in of origin status. The company’s Ty pe Directors Club of New York); “The product can’t make it on its selling olive oil not in bulk but chosen design is uncluttered and Edanditor the-in-chief International SocietyAdvertising of own: it has to be givenAward somes sort of ready bottled,Subscription: as it merits. And why features the initials LC prominently CathyTy pographic Boirac Designers (ISTD)CEDISA Prize added edge. We exportGold Ladl toe 25 in the Best Food on earth shouldSpain Gourmetour one put is up a publication with an Publication Coordinators [email protected] Magazine category, at the 2010 of the Spanish Institute for Foreign countries and we haven’Le Cordont put Bleu much World Food ugly, badlyTradesignedde (ICEX) of objectthe State that Secretary in white against an otherwise plain Almudenain 2009.Martín DesignedRueda by the PepeD.L.: M-45307-1990 black background—a reference to AlmudenaGimenoMuyo Proyecto Gráfico studio, Media Awards. for Trade and Tourism, Ministry of ISSN: 0214-2937 Communications Award Industry, Tourism and Trade. the simplicity of the products of Photographicthe packaging Archive for a product as The magazine is issued three times Mabel Manso NIPO: 705-11-023-2 “Best Journalistic Work” from Alimentos de España, a year in English, French, German this fertile region. Meanwhile, traditional as rice is a complete and Spanish, and is distributed free Editorial Secretary Cover 2006, Ministry of the Environment of charge to trade professionals. square jars and black tins with ÁngeladeparturCastillae from the norm: tubularJuan M. Sanz/©ICEX and Rural and Marine Affairs. If you want to subscribe to Spain initialed lids are all suggestive of Designcontainers and Art made Direction of recycled Information and Publisher Marqués de Busianos Award Gourmetour, please contact the Manuel Estrada Design ICEX from the Royal Spanish Academy solidity. Cayo Martínez declares cardboard are color-coded to Economic and Commercial Maps State Secretary for Trade and of Gastronomy. Ofﬁces at the Embassies of Spain confidently: “The brand’s design Javierindicate Belloso the type of rice theyTourism, Ministry of Industry, “La Gula y Bachiller en Fogones (see list on page 108). Tourism and Trade. 1998” Award from El Nuevo Lunes, makeover was certainly done with contain and are otherwise plain The opinions expressed by Color Separations www.icex.es a Spanish weekly economic publication. an eye to its possible effect on Espacio y Punto the authors of the articles are except for lettering. This simple, Design Award from the Spanish not necessarily shared by exports. The fact is, it’s been a great Printedeconomical, in Spain unconventional Association of Design the Spanish Institute for Foreign Artes Gráﬁcas Palermo Professionals (AEDP),1995. success in that regard: the number Trade (ICEX), which cannot formula has made the product Spanish Food Journalism Award, be held responsible for any of customers interested in selling readily recognizable in the 1990, Ministry of the Environment omissions or errors in the text. La Catedral de Navarra in other marketplace and famous for its and Rural and Marine Affairs. Printed on PEFC-certified Special Gastronomy Award paper to promote the from the Fine Cuisine Association responsible management and the Royal Spanish Academy 16 of our forests. of Gastronomy,1988. 17 04_AF_COLORS PACKAGING.qxd 21/11/11 18:42 Página 16 C DESIGN AND PACKAGING O L O R S

now many others seem to have Breaking talking, not beating around the countries has increased fivefold. packaging alone. “We decided to effort into finding out who buys adopted our approach,” recounts bush. And changing it can be a And that’snot all: in the next impose a total ban on illustrations our products. The packaging has manager Antonio Muiños. Response with the past radical gesture. When La Catedral two years, we expect our exports and engravings of the sort used been so important and has to both product and packaging has Many designers look on typography de Navarra decided the time had to go up 300%: that’s a big so often in classic food packaging, generated so much publicity for us the ‘grandma’s home cooking’ that importers seek us out. If we’d been excellent (and the packaging as the keystone of all projects. come for a new corporate image, increase, especially when you has been featured in one of the aesthetic,” explains Pepe Gimeno, had to spend on advertising, Clear, rounded, simple, unadorned their intention was “to make a clean take into account that foreign world’s leading specialist packaging break, not just with our previous who is a great believer in taking the outlay would have been lettering can express strength and sales represent less than 10% blogs, thedieline.com). The design image but with the predominant of the total for this brand.” a radical approach when dealing a lot more,” confirms Minguet. sobriety. It stands for straight also appears prominently in a book design approach in the sector as a The Arroces Sivaris story is too with a sector that can be “…rather This same radical attitude is in entitled Basic Pack, published by whole. We were the first company good to leave out. It has become timid. Good packaging can be evidence at LA Organic, the organic graphic design specialist Index in the canned and bottled vegetable famous for its packaging design, clever and operate on much the extra virgin olive by La Amarilla de Book. The demand for seaweed has sector to move away from that which has won many awards both same level as communication Ronda, a product that bears the risen by 30% in the last year and often over-the-top traditional in Spain and abroad: the Liderpack design. Whereas it’s true that a joint signatures of Pedro Gómez Muiños and his team are convinced image: all ochre colors, medieval- Award in 2006, the Spanish brand provides a product with de Baeza and celebrity designer that they have their image to thank looking typefaces and pictures of Association of Design Professionals continuity, I’m convinced that Philippe Starck, with Michelle for at least some of that. parchment scrolls,” explains Cayo (AEPD) Prize in 2007, the Anuaria packaging is more important.” For Roland as advisor. “When we Martínez, manager of this company Prize for Packaging in 2007, the Miguel Minguet, a member of this started La Amarilla, our intention located in the Ebro Valley, Navarre, World Stars for Packaging in 2007, family business, the key to success was to give Spanish olive oil the an area famous for top-quality the Certificate of Typographical in this area is for industry and design it deserved so that Spain vegetables, some with designation Excellence in 2008 (awarded by the designers to understand each other. could become a contender in of origin status. The company’s Ty pe Directors Club of New York); “The product can’t make it on its selling olive oil not in bulk but chosen design is uncluttered and and the International Society of own: it has to be given some sort of ready bottled, as it merits. And why features the initials LC prominently Ty pographic Designers (ISTD) Prize added edge. We export to 25 on earth should one put up with an in white against an otherwise plain in 2009. Designed by the Pepe countries and we haven’t put much ugly, badly designed object that black background—a reference to Gimeno Proyecto Gráfico studio, the simplicity of the products of the packaging for a product as this fertile region. Meanwhile, traditional as rice is a complete square jars and black tins with departure from the norm: tubular initialed lids are all suggestive of containers made of recycled solidity. Cayo Martínez declares cardboard are color-coded to confidently: “The brand’s design indicate the type of rice they makeover was certainly done with contain and are otherwise plain an eye to its possible effect on except for lettering. This simple, exports. The fact is, it’s been a great economical, unconventional success in that regard: the number formula has made the product of customers interested in selling readily recognizable in the La Catedral de Navarra in other marketplace and famous for its

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well, but you’re sure to be asked representing a 28% increase on and flavors, I find Oriol Balaguer, and learn to use marketing known the world over. Wrapping for something quite different,” 2010, economic crisis Catalan master chocolatier and techniques to explain that we are tins of canned fish in miniature he explains. True to the spirit of notwithstanding. pâtissier and winner of many good people, that we do things fishermen’s nets was a trail-blazing their projected image, the Steeped in his own special awards. He finds it impossible well, and can match the best in the idea in its time that consolidated aluminum cans, cardboard and environment of aromas, colors to imagine practicing his skills world in quality and design.” Well sales at home and ushered the plastic in which they pack their without first spending time said Oriol! As a sign of respect, I company’s products into new chocolate are 100% recyclable. planning exactly what the end plunge into a box of his High Tech markets in Italy, France, the US At present they have product will look like. “I don’t Chocolate: an exclusive, innovative and Japan. The feature that wins distributors in Chile, Mexico, design anything without its own concept that brings together most plaudits for ready recognition the US, Canada and the spectacular pack. I’m involved technology and chocolate in one is that nets and labels are color- whole of Europe “…in very throughout the entire process attention-grabbing pack (and even coded to indicate the flavor of prestigious markets, such as because I enjoy design and includes a DVD)! sauce that comes with the fish. Switzerland—a very drawing; they are so closely related Versatile resources, clever ideas desirable market for us,” to my own creative area,” Swathed and rigorously-designed schemes declares Carlos emphatically. he declares categorically. A represent just one aspect Exports accounted for 70% perfectionist with a keen eye for in sophistication of the exciting and welcome of ChocoLate Orgániko’s detail, Balaguer believes firmly that To sum up this brief but intensive transformation undergone turnover in 2011, 50% to 60% of sales are made on survey of Spanish packaging, I can by Spain’s agri-food sector. the strength of packaging and report that, money and inclination The quest is still on for channels presentation, and is adept at using permitting, this is a field in which of communication that are effective, his skills so that good presentation imagination is given free rein. Some open-minded and iconoclastic. need not mean added expense. companies reinforce their already Innovation and design are “Here in Spain we’re not good at considerable market presence the way forward, and we have letting the world know what we’re by introducing an element of with the Moneo Brock Studio) plenty of both. We’re getting there, really like,” he declares. “We need exclusivity: Joselito’s Colección remained true to his understated, and we’re doing it our way. to get rid of our inferiority complex Premium (Spain Gourmetour No. functional style with a design for 73) highlights the “gastronomic a versatile framework composed of Gloria Escribano is a journalist gem” status of its Ibérico ham by pieces that could be fitted together and cultural advisor specialized in presenting it in hand-crafted to make either a lamp or a CD case culture, architectureand design. Born containers. For the last few years, once the ham had been eaten (one in Argentina, she has lived in Spain these have been designed wouldn’t forget that brand in a since 1989 and is a contributor to by famous figures from the Spanish hurry). The downside is that these Spanish and Latin American arts industry, including fashion special packs are sold in the most publications such as La Nación, designer Andrés Sardá and architect exclusive shops in the world. And Raíces del Cine, Obras y Ambientes Rafael Moneo. Sardá came up with there are waiting lists for them! and REM Diseño, among others. She the idea of a curved box clad in Another example of famously is also coordinator of the Ibero black leather and red silk and imaginative packaging is Conservas American Design Biennale organized completely wrapped in black de Cambados’ net-wrapped can—a by DIMAD in Madrid’s Matadero Chantilly lace. Moneo (working novelty some 20 years ago and Design Center.

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Taming the Bull

Ignited by high ratings from Robert Parker and others, DO Toro wines exploded onto the international wine scene in the late 1990s. Since then, DO Toro wines have become infamous for being over-extracted, over-oaked and high alcohol “fruit bombs”. Over the past decade, Toro’s finest bodegas have focused on incredible old vines and specific terroirs to control the often rustic and brawny Tinta de Toro grape and produce refined wines that balance power with elegance and finesse. DO TORO is Redefining Wines from Treasured Terroir 04_AF_VINOS DO TORO.qxd 2/11/11 00:25 Página 22

Taming the Bull

PHOTOS PATRICIA R. SOTO/©ICEX

Walking the narrow streets of Toro, de Toro, Villaester, Villafranca you sense a spirit with dual aspects. de Duero, Valdefinjas, Venialbo, One is rooted in history, the other Villabuena del Puente, El Pego and looks ahead to a panoramic future Argujillo. Vineyards in this region filled with promise. La Colegiata have sandy topsoil that thwarts de Santa María la Mayor is an phylloxera. As a result, DO Toro is impregnable limestone one of the few places left on earth Romanesque church nearly eight with pie franco (ungrafted) vines centuries old. This church is Toro’s planted on original rootstocks, most prominent point, a beacon for some well over 100 years old. a steady stream of international These Tinta de Toro grapes have tourists. Due north, locals gather in distinct personality, aromatic depth a relaxing, tranquil plaza lined by and complex flavors. family-owned shops selling food From prestigious international and artisanal goods. wineries to small, relatively Each bird darts off quickly in a A few blocks away, at the chic, different direction, apparently angry unknown bodegas, the following contemporary Restaurante La Viuda or crazy, a defensive response to are notable for viticulture that gives Rica, Chef Emilio Leoz Vila turns confuse predators. Stepping through the vineyards their most authentic out tapas and main courses as hip, the forests and vineyards, profuse means of expression. These creative and scrumptious as any and heady scents of tomillo (thyme), wineries use knowledge of terroir served in Barcelona or Madrid. romero (rosemary) and wild herbs and organic winegrowing (or the Toro is dramatically perched inform the aromas and flavors equivalent) to grow Tinta de Toro on a hilltop, visible from all of the grapes, a wonderful reminder grapes that show a clear sense of around. From the promenade next of the wine’s place of origin. place, the identity of Toro wines. to Hotel Juan II that overlooks the With winegrowing that predates valley, a grandly sweeping view the Romans, Toro is one of Spain’s “White chalk” in the south encompasses many square oldest wine regions. During the age heights of Toro miles of countryside, DO Toro’s real of Cervantes (Spanish writer, 1547- riches. In front of you, the Duero 1616), Toro’s wines were more Founded in 2007, Bodega Cal River exudes a brooding power, famous than Rioja’s. With Blanca is located in the small, sleepy announcing itself with a full, lusty characteristically burly tannins, village of Venialbo. A 15-20 minute “rush” as its waters snake eastward Toro wines accompanied Columbus drive away, the Cal Blanca vineyard on an indirect course for the to the Americas for their ability is 15 km (about 9 mi) southwest of Atlantic. A small bend of the river to support the trip. Toro was the town of Toro. Eight hectares (20 flows north directly toward you, recognized as a region by Spain’s acres) in size, this is large compared crossed by an arched, stone bridge regulatory Wine Statute of 1932 (as to vineyards typical of DO Ribera that dates from the Romans. Small, were Jerez, Priorato and Cariñena) del Duero and DOCa Rioja, for chirping sandy-brown birds, and DO Toro was established in example, but with Toro’s traditional, gorriones, swiftly flit about in 1987. Just seven bodegas twelve low density of plantation (1,000 nervous search for food. years ago have grown to fifty today. vines/ha or 400 vines/acre) and DO Toro is a land of rustic paisaje Toro’s highest vineyards are situated miniscule yields, this entire (landscape). As you drive over at over 800 m (2,625 ft) elevation. vineyard produces 2,250 cases, country roads, your car’s passing will The region’s best sites are on which can be found in the United flush a flock of small black birds, paramos (plateaus) near the villages States, Germany and Switzerland. tordos, from the roadside bushes. of San Román de Hornija, Morales DO Ribera del Duero and DOCa

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PHOTOS PATRICIA R. SOTO/©ICEX

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Rioja vineyards are planted at a soil. There is only a meter (3.3 ft) or greater minerality, structure and The Monte Viejo (Old Mountain) you must listen, to the climate, to mouth that are very profound and density 2-5 times higher. so of topsoil then bedrock.” There’s a more velvety mouthfeel. area between the Duero and Hornija the old growers. When I blend long. The Benavides 2010 (dulce) Proprietor Juan Pablo Peñalba (his almost no limestone throughout DO Rivers has two terroirs. The more different parcels together, it’s like has explosive aromas of anise, fennel family owns Torremilanos in DO Toro vineyards and only two or three Elías Mora: an typical of Toro has iron-rich red making a puzzle. I like to work and stone fruit flavors. Wow! Ribera del Duero) and winemaker areas are known to contain any. clay; the other has many big stones, with each vintage a bit differently. Pablo Rubio (also vineyard manager Pablo continues, “The previous artisanal château pebbles, very sandy soils and clay It’s not mathematics. Every vat, Expression at PSI in DO Ribera del Duero) walk owner used fertilizer, which we In 2000, owner and winemaker subsoil. “More pebbles mean better plot, parcel is different and to taste me through the vines in early June. stopped. Every year, the vines have Victoria Benavides and another vineyards,” Vicki explains. Like and feel this is very important. Toro of old vineyards Just after flowering, the short, 25- better balance. We do organic partner established this winery, Châteauneuf-du-Pape, the ground is is a special and rare place. It’s The Eguren family established year-old bush vines exude a visceral, viticulture to respect the character recently renamed Bodegas Elias covered by large river stones, which challenging to make wines that are Teso la Monja and released its first positive energy, with leaves a verdant of the vines, and the fruit has been Mora. The winery and best absorb the day’s heat and radiate it so powerful, but in the end, you vintage in 2007. The family wanted shade of lime green and numerous getting better. The way people used vineyards are located 5 km (3 mi) at night. Vines show copious thick can make really nice wines.” More to produce a different style of wine sarmientos (young canes or shoots). to work 20, 30 years ago is southeast of Toro in San Román leaves, which protect clusters from than 50% of their wines are sold in in DO Toro, driven by terroir rather On a slight upward grade, this becoming fashionable again. We’re de Hornija, a village where the relentless sun, and many new Europe, America and Asia. than winemaking. The winery remote vineyard is isolated, a hidden not going to do strange things in Maurodos and Vega Sicilia’s Pintia canes. Compared to neatly pruned The 2009 Viñas Elías Mora shows and some vineyards are located gem among pine trees and cereal the winery. We are simply going to also have parcels. For quality wine bush vines in DO Ribera del Duero juicy black fruit, licorice and fresh, near Valdefinjas, about 8 km (5 mi) fields. Strong winds blow and it’s observe, watch the grapes and the growing, San Román is to DO Toro or DOCa Rioja, these are amazons balsamic aromas, and ripe flavors southwest of Toro. Teso la Monja very fresh for June. The soil is quite wines evolve, and we’re going to try what Gevrey Chambertin is to compared to gymnasts. without being jammy. The 2008 follows traditional, organic similar to a blend found in the best to grow better grapes. The goal Burgundy’s Côte de Nuits. Elias Like a château, the winery is 15-20 Elías Mora Crianza is bigger with winegrowing methods over half vineyards in Bordeaux. Pablo with Cal Blanca is to make a Mora farms 70 ha (175 acres) of minutes from the furthest vines. good components, but rougher and a century old. Located in explains, “There is a lot of sand here, natural wine that’s easy to drink.” vineyards, 12 of which are estate- Vicki’s own team harvests all her not quite integrated. The 2004 Elías Valdefinjas, Toro and Villabuena but it’s not the same soil you Cal Blanca 2009 shows expressive owned, the rest are under long- grapes. “What good is a sorting Mora Reserva exhibits dense, floral del Puente, the 50- to 100-year-old normally find in DO Toro, which is black fruit aromas, with garrigue term contract with local growers. table if you don’t have good people and complex aromatic red fruits (or more) estate vineyards are the quite different, with a bit more clay and wild herb notes. Beautifully Eighty parcels contain traditional picking the grapes?” she asks. A with sweet, toasty oak notes and most impressive array of old vines and very sandy. This is limestone. poised, dense and mineral-driven en vaso (bush) trained, ungrafted purist, traditional winegrower, beautifully silky, suave flavors on the in Toro, each with a palpable aura There is gravel with lots of silt and dark berry and plum flavors framed old clones of Tinta de Toro. Vicki is an intuitive and creative palate. A beauty! The 2007 Gran of timeworn character and distinct sand in a calcareous mattress; all the by tangy acidity have great balance Vicki and I visit one of her best winemaker. “I’ve been here 11 years Elías Mora has red and black cherry identity, like an old photo of a elements are cemented by calcareous and texture. Cal Blanca 2010 has parcels near the border of DO Toro. and I’m still learning. To make wine aromas and clean flavors in the beloved grandparent.

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DO TORO

Winemaker Eduardo Eguren and ocean of river stones, and Marinacea Recognizing the potential, Mariano Vineyard Manager Luis Felipe is sandy with small stones. bought parcels and he established Cuesta de Toro tour me through Almirez 2009 is assertively floral, Bodegas Maurodos in 1995. San old vineyards, and each shows with red berry, herbal aromas and Román 1997 was the first modern- a different personality than the next. toasty oak notes. Surprisingly light style Toro wine, vinified at the old Valmediano is on a slope with and fresh in the mouth, it shows Mauro winery in Tudela de Duero northern exposures, so its grapes sweet, ripe flavors, structure and and released as a generic Vino de la ripen later and have a fresh, cool tannins. Almirez 2008 shows more Tierra de Castilla y León. In 2000, climate character. The soil’s varied black fruits and is better integrated, the Maurodos winery was built composition is visible as colored with notes of wet stones and very near Villaester, about 12 km (7.5 bands; lower is grey-white gravel fine tannins; this is more linear on mi) east of Toro. Of the winery’s 95 and river stones, mid-slope is khaki- the palate. Victorino 2008 is a step ha (237.5 acres) of vineyards, 65 beige sand, and upper slope is up in quality, with mineral-driven (162.5 acres) are estate-owned reddish brown iron-rich clay. El black fruit aromas and caramel and the rest are under contract. Rosal is very sandy, La Jara is an notes. Silky on the palate, tannins Mariano and his son Eduardo are massive but fine. Victorino 2009 are General Director and Head (barrel sample) shows expressive Winemaker, respectively, and Main information herbal, violet and floral aromas. collaborate on winemaking. Forty With silky fruit, it has great depth on percent of production goes to 50 on DO Toro the palate, with beautiful acidity, soft export countries, including the US, · DO Toro established in 1987 tannins and candied notes. Alabaster the UK, Germany and Switzerland. · 50 producers governed by DO Toro 2008 has shy aromas of herbs and Each year, Maurodos blends 22 Regulatory Council red berries. In the mouth, cool parcels of 25- to 80-year-old vines · DO Toro is situated to the southeast climate fruit is complex, fresh and located in 8 villages, including San of the province of Zamora and in the suave, with noble tannins. Alabaster Román de Hornija. The Garcías west of the province of Valladolid 2009 (barrel sample) has very dense, believe that since one vineyard · Grapes: for reds, Tinta de Toro and Garnacha Tinta; for whites, Malvasía profound and earthy aromas of forest cannot give adequate aromatic or and Verdejo herbs (thyme, rosemary) and chewy flavor complexity, blending different · Of the DO Toro’s total of 62,000 ha red and black fruit flavors. Alabaster parcels is key. On a June day with (153,205 acres), 5,500 (13,590 shows a great wine’s blend of power strong winds, Eduardo and I notice acres) are registered as vineyards and finesse. With a 50% export vines with many broken branches to 1,200 growers quota, this bodega is a new top and canes. Visibly upset, Eduardo · In 2010, total grape production was 16.5 million kilograms. 9.5 producer to watch in DO Toro. exclaims, “On days like today, I don’t million (75 cl) bottles of DO Toro like to see the vineyards.” Eduardo wine were produced Modern-style Toro is very protective of the vines, which · Of total wine production, 23.1% are close to his heart. (16,235 hl) were sold abroad wines “Toro is a very special place. It’s a and the 76.9% (54,076 hl) in Spain. Main markets are the United States, In 1994, renowned winemaker place with continental conditions Germany, Denmark, Benelux, Mariano García (Spain Gourmetour and you have an Atlantic influence Japan, Poland, the United No. 75) investigated vineyards in with the soil and orography of the Kingdom, Finland, and Canada. Toro for Vega Sicilia, where he was Mediterranean, like Jumilla or Yecla · www.dotoro.com DO Toro Regulatory Council Technical Director at the time, and (Murcia, southeast Spain). The vines (English, German, Japanese, Spanish) for Mauro, his family winery. are very wild; scientific winegrowing

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DO TORO

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costs as much as an attractive one?” encompassing various brands of design scheme which manages with gold features the assistance to get its message across. Pozo, progenitors of ChocoLate demands Elisa Álvarez. She’s the canned and bottled sea products to be both traditional and elegant aforementioned photograph In the case of ChocoLate Orgániko, Orgániko, share a joint vision manager and has a lot to say on the and boasting an impressive export and makes clever use of a as a reminder of ongoing family the product itself is innovative, so of their business: “It’s primarily subject of the importance of good record. During an initial renovatory confidence-inspiring paper label tradition. “We’re delighted with its avant-garde modern packaging our design that makes us different,” image. From his first design, Starck phase it adopted a color-coded that gives information about the the result. Sales have increased is part of the whole: vivid colors, admits Carlos. “We start off vineyards in 1998 and did bull will show its horns. The most favored tins as the best containers, system for grouping different product and the traditional recipes considerably,” confirms Iñaki, imaginative typography and noble by attracting attention, then people extensive tests from 1997-2000 important thing for us in Toro is using color to give them a modern flavors while retaining other cooked by chef Antonio Gázquez mentioning no actual figures but or experimental materials used for find out more about us and end before producing its first vintage in to respect the fresh fruit aromas. look. Today, his extra virgin olive characteristic features of the brand. of Las Eras restaurant in Tabernas speaking with great confidence wrapping are ongoing features of an up as customers because of the 2001. In 2006, an elegant, efficient Pintia begins with a basic, rustic oils are readily recognizable by It followed this up in 2010 with (Almería, southern Spain). about the company’s expansion into endless quest to stand out from the quality of our product. We’ve also winery was built in San Román de style then develops elegance with their containers’ formats and sizes, an image makeover, shifting its The case of the family firm of foreign markets, particularly in rest. Carlos Ortiz and Eugenia been prepared to evolve and adapt Hornija, about 5 km (3 mi) time in bottle. It’s necessary to different shades of green, and focus to “meal-solution” products Gorrotxategi, which produces and Central Europe, where they know in response to demand from southeast of Toro, close to Elías police this rusticity. Until 2006, stylish lettering. The idiosyncratic and using Naturfresh technology, markets top-of-the-range artisan a thing or two about traditional international markets: knowing Mora. One hundred ha (250 acres) Pintia was kept one year, but now bottles popularly known as which enabled it to adopt lighter turrón (almond nougat), chocolates cakes, sweets and pastries. what you’d like to sell is all very of vineyards are in San Román de we keep Pintia two years in bottle weight, more convenient containers and biscuits, proves that expanding “inkwells” were designed in before release,” says Xavier. whose practical advantages Horneednija not and mean in thesacrificing Toro and response to demand for glass TheFeast 2007 Pintiayour shows eyes ripe, black and ready recognizability have Moralesapproachability de Toro. “Somearea, all people Tinta seemde containers: interestingly, many Certainfruit aromas areas and of the flavors sector with can wild given excellent results. Toto rthinko vines that on if ungrafted you change rootstocks. your countries, including Brazil and herbcarry notesoff mor andes Mediterraneanophisticated design The approachability that close-up Grupoimage nothingVega Sicilia will Tstayechnical as it was, Ireland, look askance at tins. characterthan others.. Atypically The world, this of showschocolate a images and an intimate style of Diryou’llector no Xavierlonger Ausàsbe recognizable. and I visit LA Organic currently has a market linearand its aspect, seemingly not rboundlessound. The range 2008 presentation can create is vineyarThat’s whyds near they’Sanre so Román. resistant isprnotesence good in her23e, countr it’s betteries all to overhave for drinking now and for aging. Pintiaof taste shows experiences, black raspberries, for example, red about 5 km (3 mi) south of Toro traditional bush plants, you have discernible, too, in the artisan- Ubiquitousto change. But river we’ve stones got that the carpetbest themor world,e traditional, sales abrartisanaload accounting methods. The 2007 San Román has more cherrmighty, needbramble, flamboyant spice and graphic herbal and around 3 km (1.9 mi) little rain, a lot of wind. We don’t made gourmet products based on theof both ground worlds: atop we sandy still anduse grtheavel for“W e50%like ofgrapes the total from volume Villabuena, sold. spicy, mineral, ripe red fruit flavors. aromas, with silky fruit on the southwest of San Román de get the mistrals here but in DO the traditional cuisine of Almería topsoilsame pictur “storee asener beforgy ande,” act like a one of the only places in Toro with The 2008 San Román has ripe, palate. With noble tannins, this has Hornija. Since 2002, all 22 ha (55 Toro we lose 10-15% of our vines produced by La Gergaleña. Using batter—a photography,” while clay of thrsubsoilee members retains limestone, which gives finesse and sweet, black cherry aromas, given elegant structure. The 2009 Pintia acres) of 10- to 80-year-old each year from the wind. The Approachability an image designed to suggest waterof the forfamily vinesmiling—,“we’r roots “like a sponge,”e still complexity from quite sandy soils an edge by wild herb, espresso, has black fruit and wild herb vineyards are tended using certified unique difference is altitude. Here In certain sectors, particularly in natural products prepared explainsassociated Xavier with. aPintia’ qualitys vines product, are and very old vines; and Argujillo, mocha and toasty oak notes. With aromas, with mineral and oak organic viticulture. Natural sheep we have 700 m (2,300 ft) altitude; export markets where less money naturally, this company is currently carandefully now prwe’veuned got and a rtheyeputation look for a colder place unlike San Román a creamy, silky texture, this shows notes. The flavors are fresh, juicy manure compost and natural in Châteauneuf it’s maybe 100-200 is allocated to advertising, in the initial phases of an tailorbeinged innovative,like a tree, too. compar We decideded to the or Morales, with more acidity beautiful balance and svelte tannins. and svelte with a velvety texture. treatments like nettle, valerian, m (328-656 ft). Of course, packaging assumes the role of expansion strategy aimed others.that we Thishad tocontr adaptols grif owthwe wer ofe and good balance.” This will be one of the best vintages Pintia is available in more than lavender and comfrey are used. the Grenache and Tinta de Toro brand ambassador. In such cases principally at Germany, Hungary, vegetationgoing to gr owupwar,” explainsd rather Iñaki than out, The 2006 San Román has assertive of this wine. The 2008 Prima has 100 export countries. I ask Technical Director Jean are different grapes, but both reit dis beimportantrry aromas, for withpackaging toasty tooak France,fresh, crisp the blackberrNetherlandsy fr uit.and whichGorrotxategi, helps pr theotect company’ and aersate François Hébrard to compare a denominations make wines with andcommunicate caramel notes. appr oachabilityLively and juicyand Austria. Whereas the company grapecommer clusterscial and better communication. French appellation to DO Toro. lots of personality that are maybe manager. Stylishly designed Close to the soil blackfamiliarity raspberr as welly flavors as be ar functional.e rePintia:corded zer Vo exportsega inSicilia’ 2005, bys “In Ribera del Duero, at Vega “The closest conditions to Toro not easy to understand, at first. surprisinglyThis principle buoyant has been for seena wine in 2010 some 8% of its total turnover Sicilia,packaging—sleeves, we make a classical boxes, winespecial in Founded in 1999, Quinta de la are in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but I think we can make wines with withaction such at Conser sweet,vas heftyGar tannins.avilla, one In wasboutique attributable tobodega foreign sales. anassortment elegant r pregion.esentations In Toro, with we wanteasy- Quietud was acquired by the without the altitude. You have the their own identity, similar to what open individual compartments— perfectof the most unison innovative with the companiestannins, the MuchTo establish of the Bodegascredit for Pintia,this leap Vega is to make an elegant wine in a rustic current owners in 2001. The same type of soils, the river stones they’ve done with Châteauneuf. using rich, warm colors juxtaposed wine’in Spain’s aciditys food lends sector gr,eat balance dueSicilia to methodicallyits adoption of pur a chaseddynamic region. No matter what you do, the winery and vineyards are located and a lot of sand. You have Châteauneuf has a very long story

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vineyards in 1998 and did bull will show its horns. The most extensive tests from 1997-2000 important thing for us in Toro is before producing its first vintage in to respect the fresh fruit aromas. 2001. In 2006, an elegant, efficient Pintia begins with a basic, rustic winery was built in San Román de style then develops elegance with Hornija, about 5 km (3 mi) time in bottle. It’s necessary to southeast of Toro, close to Elías police this rusticity. Until 2006, Mora. One hundred ha (250 acres) Pintia was kept one year, but now of vineyards are in San Román de we keep Pintia two years in bottle Hornija and in the Toro and before release,” says Xavier. Morales de Toro area, all Tinta de The 2007 Pintia shows ripe, black Toro vines on ungrafted rootstocks. fruit aromas and flavors with wild Grupo Vega Sicilia Technical herb notes and Mediterranean Director Xavier Ausàs and I visit character. Atypically, this shows a vineyards near San Román. linear aspect, not round. The 2008 is not good here, it’s better to have for drinking now and for aging. about 5 km (3 mi) south of Toro traditional bush plants, you have Ubiquitous river stones that carpet Pintia shows black raspberries, red more traditional, artisanal methods. The 2007 San Román has more and around 3 km (1.9 mi) little rain, a lot of wind. We don’t the ground atop sandy and gravel cherry, bramble, spice and herbal “We like grapes from Villabuena, spicy, mineral, ripe red fruit flavors. southwest of San Román de get the mistrals here but in DO topsoil “store energy and act like a aromas, with silky fruit on the one of the only places in Toro with The 2008 San Román has ripe, Hornija. Since 2002, all 22 ha (55 Toro we lose 10-15% of our vines battery,” while clay subsoil retains palate. With noble tannins, this has limestone, which gives finesse and sweet, black cherry aromas, given elegant structure. The 2009 Pintia acres) of 10- to 80-year-old each year from the wind. The complexity from quite sandy soils an edge by wild herb, espresso, water for vine roots “like a sponge,” vineyards are tended using certified unique difference is altitude. Here explains Xavier. Pintia’s vines are has black fruit and wild herb and very old vines; and Argujillo, mocha and toasty oak notes. With aromas, with mineral and oak organic viticulture. Natural sheep we have 700 m (2,300 ft) altitude; carefully pruned and they look a colder place unlike San Román a creamy, silky texture, this shows notes. The flavors are fresh, juicy manure compost and natural in Châteauneuf it’s maybe 100-200 tailored like a tree, compared to the or Morales, with more acidity beautiful balance and svelte tannins. and svelte with a velvety texture. treatments like nettle, valerian, m (328-656 ft). Of course, others. This controls growth of and good balance.” This will be one of the best vintages Pintia is available in more than lavender and comfrey are used. the Grenache and Tinta de Toro vegetation upward rather than out, The 2006 San Román has assertive of this wine. The 2008 Prima has 100 export countries. I ask Technical Director Jean are different grapes, but both red berry aromas, with toasty oak fresh, crisp blackberry fruit. which helps protect and aerate François Hébrard to compare a denominations make wines with and caramel notes. Lively and juicy grape clusters better. Close to the soil French appellation to DO Toro. lots of personality that are maybe black raspberry flavors are Pintia: Vega Sicilia’s “In Ribera del Duero, at Vega “The closest conditions to Toro not easy to understand, at first. surprisingly buoyant for a wine Sicilia, we make a classical wine in Founded in 1999, Quinta de la are in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, but I think we can make wines with with such sweet, hefty tannins. In boutique bodega an elegant region. In Toro, we want Quietud was acquired by the without the altitude. You have the their own identity, similar to what perfect unison with the tannins, the To establish Bodegas Pintia, Vega to make an elegant wine in a rustic current owners in 2001. The same type of soils, the river stones they’ve done with Châteauneuf. wine’s acidity lends great balance Sicilia methodically purchased region. No matter what you do, the winery and vineyards are located and a lot of sand. You have Châteauneuf has a very long story

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Tinta de Toro: Tempranillo growers under long-term contract. vineyard. You can’t change this. by any other name Estate Director and Winemaker Tinta de Toro is a concentrated Manuel Louzada and Viticulturist grape and has this special power.” Daniel Del Río show me vines, Dama de Toro 2010 has fresh red explaining how they carefully prune current and cherry aromas and an to form a crown of a small number In DO Toro, Tempranillo is called easy drinking character. The Dama nowTinta many de To roothers. Tempranillo seem to is Spain’have s Breaking talking, not beating around the countriesof bunches. has This incr preasedomotes fivefold. balance packaging alone. “We decided to efdef ortTor intoo 2009 finding Barr elout Agedwho is buys similar adoptedindigenous, our most appr well-knownoach,” recounts and bush. And changing it can be a Andin the that’ vine’sns otpr oductionall: in the for next optimal impose a total ban on illustrations ourbut hasproducts. a moreThe round, packaging charming has most-planted red wine grape, with ripeness and to maintain space managerover 200,000 Antonio ha (500,000 Muiños. acr Responsees) with the past radical gesture. When La Catedral two years, we expect our exports and engravings of the sort used aspect.been so The important Dama deand T orhaso Crianza between bunches so that drying topl anted.both pr It oductis thought and to packaging be named has Many designers look on typography de Navarra decided the time had to go up 300%: that’s a big so often in classic food packaging, 2005generated has exprso muchessive publicity red fruit forand us after the Spanish word temprano breezes can pass through. Manuel the ‘grandma’s home cooking’ that importers seek us out. If we’d been excellent (and the packaging as the keystone of all projects. come for a new corporate image, increase, especially when you herbal aromas, and shows fresh, has(early), been due featur to theed grape’ in ones tendency of the their intention was “to make a clean takeshowed into me account Tinta de that Tor foro’seign more aesthetic,” explains Pepe Gimeno, had to spend on advertising, to ripen ahead of other varieties. Clear, rounded, simple, unadorned beautifully crisp fruit. world’s leading specialist packaging break, not just with our previous compact cluster, without “shoulders” who is a great believer in taking the outlay would have been The grape has different names lettering can express strength and sales represent less than 10% DO Toro winemakers are focusing blogs,across thedieline.com). Spain: Tempranillo Thein DOCa design image but with the predominant ofnormallythe total found for thison Tbrand.”empranillo in a radical approach when dealing a lot more,” confirms Minguet. sobriety. It stands for straight on their vineyards, specific terroirs, alsoRioja; appears Tinto Fino prominently or Tinta del inPaís a bookin design approach in the sector as a TheRioja, Arr andoces 10-20% Sivaris lighter story. is too with a sector that can be “…rather theThis T sameinta de radical Toro grattitudeape and is theirin entitledDO RiberaBasic del PackDuero;, published Tinto de by Termes 2009 has very bright, floral, timid. Good packaging can be evidence at LA Organic, the organic Madrid in DO Vino de Madrid; Ullde whole. We were the first company good to leave out. It has become region’s identity. Manuel observed, red fruit, spice and herb aromas, graphicLlebre in design Catalonia; specialist and Cencibel Index in in the canned and bottled vegetable famous for its packaging design, clever and operate on much the “Textraoday vir, evergin yolive winer byy La in AmarillaDO Toro de with gutsy, vibrant blackberry Book.DO Val Thedepeñas demand and DOfor Laseaweed Mancha. has sector to move away from that which has won many awards both same level as communication wantsRonda, to a imprproductove thatqualitybear, whichs the risenDespite by t30%he potential in the forlast con yearfusion, and to tell for quality wines. In DO oftenresisted over Roman-the-top conquest traditional for over inflavors. Spain A and meaty abr oad:mid-palate the Lider edgepack is design. Whereas it’s true that a joint signatures of Pedro Gómez these names convey the concept old Tinta de Toro vines. Older vines has helped the region. A few years Muiños and his team are convinced Toro and the rest of Spain, it’s a 20 years. A similar heroism was appealing. Numanthia 2009 brand provides a product with de Baeza and celebrity designer that Tempranillo has an ability to image: all ochre colors, medieval- Award in 2006, the Spanish are traditional en vaso trained, ago, DO Toro winemakers wanted that they have their image to thank short story. We’re at the beginning.” demonstrated by DO Toro’s Tinta (components tasted from barrel) continuity, I’m convinced that Philippe Starck, with Michelle adapt over centuries to different looking typefaces and pictures of Association of Design Professionals while a double Guyot trellis is used to make wines with high scores; forterruños at least(terr someoirs) andof that.climate The 2009 Corral de Campanas has parde Tchmentoro vines, scr olls,”which explains resisted Cayo the (AEPD)has serious Prize black in 2007, fruit artheomas Anuaria with forpackaging younger is vines. more Wimporinemakertant.” For Roland as advisor. “When we conditions to express an identity now everyone is focusing on attractive red fruit aromas and Martínez,phylloxera manager epidemic of thatthis af companyflicted Prizenotes forof esprPackagingesso, wild in 2007, herbs theand Miguel Minguet, a member of this started La Amarilla, our intention and character specific to each place Bernardo Fariña believes this results making wines with the personality fresh, crisp fruit in the mouth. locatedalmost allin ofthe Spain’ Ebros Vvineyaralley, Navarrds at e, minerals, with a minty bite. This family business, the key to success was to give Spanish olive oil the of origin. Top winemakers liken World Stars for Packaging in 2007, in better canopy management and of our region. In doing this, their Tempranillo to Pinot Noir and The sprightly acidity and soft anthe ar turean famous of the 20forth top-qualitycentury. When theshows Certificate a terrific, of ripe, Typographical silky texture in this area is for industry and design it deserved so that Spain more efficient photosynthesis so wines have been highly rated. Nebbiolo in its ability to express tannins help this wine’s clean vegetables,the 1998 Numanthia some with was designation awarded Excellenceand fine, sweet in 2008 tannins (awar thatded ar bye the thatdesigners the number to understand of bunches each and other. could become a contender in minute variations in terroir. Tinta de Consumers want something character. The 2005 Quinta de la of95 originpoints status. by Robert The Parkercompany’, it swas Tyverpye long.Directors Term Clubanthia of 2009New (barrYork);el grape“The pr sizeoduct are can’reducedt make and it ongrape its selling olive oil not in bulk but Toro bunches and grapes are smaller different, so we have to make wines than those of Tempranillo in DOCa Quietud has meaty, earthy aromas chosena breakthr designough isfor unclutter DO Toredo wines.and andsample) the Interhas high-tonednational Society aromas of of qualityown: it ishas impr to beoved. given some sort of ready bottled, as it merits. And why with the character of our region. Rioja, for example, with skins twice with leather, licorice, fennel and featurThis helpedes the initialsincrease LC Numanthia’ prominentlys Tydarkpographic berries, Designersmocha, roasted (ISTD) earth Prize Fariñaadded edge.reminds We me export that toDO 25 on earth should one put up with an Our identity is our strength.” as thick and darker in color, able to roasted brown sugar notes. The inexport white markets: against 33%an other of Numanthiawise plain and minerals, with a eucalyptus countries and we haven’t put much ugly, badly designed object that withstand the greater temperature in 2009. Designed by the Pepe Toro’s conditions (one of Spain’s extremes of the Duero Valley. Similar fruit shows a slight, oaky sweetness blackand T ebackgrrmanthiaound—a and 75% refer ofence Termes to Gimenonote. The Pr superoyecto-concentr Gráficoated studio, driest regions, receiving 3,000 Chris Fleming is a freelance wine to old clones found in DO Ribera del and a bit of warmth on the finish. theis exported simplicity to ofthe the US, pr theoducts UK, of theflavors packaging are intensely for a pr vibrant.oduct as The hours of sunlight each year) make writer who has written for The Wine Duero and DOCa Rioja, some Tinta The 2000 Quinta de la Quietud is a thisMexico, fertile Germany region., Meanwhile,Switzerland, traditionalacidity and as finely rice honedis a complete tannins the growing season short, 3.5 de Toro vines have hairy leaves. APT bit reduced but has big black fruit squarJapane and jars Hong and black Kong. tins The with Eguren departurwill helpe this from become the norm: one tubularof the months compared to 4 for Spectator, The World of Fine Wine, (Anthocyanins, Polyphenols and The Robb Report, and others. He Tannins) are critical metrics used by aromas and flavors, with a plush initialedfamily established lids are all Numanthia suggestive inof containersgreat vintages made of Toferm recycledanthia. DO Ribera del Duero. winemakers to analyze their grapes. mouthfeel and cleansing acidity. solidity1998 and. Cayo sold Martínez the proper declarty toes cardboard are color-coded to Bernardo’s father Manuel Fariña currently teaches wine classes and Tinta de Toro’s APT levels are among confidently:Louis Vuitton “The Moët brand’ Hennessys design Bodegasindicate the type ofFariña: rice they is a winemaker who has helped he’s researching a book on Rioja. In the highest observed in Spain. The 2008, Chris was Technical Advisor result is a terrifically dark, inky color; A classic makeover(LVMH) in was 2008. certainly About done49 ha with (121 contain and are otherwise plain raise the image of DO Toro wines exuberant aromas; very expressive, anacr es)eye ofto 70-its possibleto 100-year effect-old on vines exceptlooking for lettering. ahead This simple, in Spain and around the world; on a Rioja DVD produced for the concentrated flavors; and perhaps reinterpreted exports.are organically The fact farmed, is, it’s includingbeen a great economical,Established inunconventional 1942, Bodegas 35% of the total production is Culinary Institute of America. He has the most powerfully structured wines At Bodegas Numanthia Termes, the the 1-ha (2.5-acre) Termanthia Fariña has been a founding winery previously worked for prestigious from Spain. Tinta de Toro’s ripe, success in that regard: the number formula has made the product exported to 31 countries. sweet tannins are fine-grained and history of the winery’s name is ofvineyarcustomersd, over inter120ested years in old. selling For reina thedily r egion.recognizable The estate in the farms 350 “The most important thing the wine importers and retailers in the persistent on the palate. associated with tough locals who LaTer Catedralmes, grapes de Navarraare bought in otherfrom marketplaceha (875 acres) and of famous20- to 140-year for its - wine has is the character of the New York area.

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Text Photos Pulling Anke van Wijck Adán/©ICEX Alfredo Cáliz THE CORK ON SITE Say Rioja, say Sherry, say Priorat or Ribera del Duero and most wine lovers will immediately place them on the map and in their taste memory. But what about Rías Baixas, Utiel-Requena, Condado de Huelva or any of the less widely-known up- and-coming Spanish wine territories? There is no region in Spain which doesn’t produce wine, and no efforts are spared to offer top- quality products. It comes as no surprise that wine tourism (or enotourism) has developed into a much- demanded leisure activity and, of course, there is an ever-increasing number of well-organized and differentiated Spanish wine destinations to ensure that your specific expectations for a fascinating, instructive and pleasure-filled wine vacation are met.

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Gone are the times when, with autochthonous grapes and the contemporary image (like Frank Synergizing network has become as extended its great topographic and climatic the exception of a small number implantation of new varieties Gehry’s iconic titanium design for as diverse and enjoyable. A case diversity, Spain is in a highly of known wineries, most Spanish thriving in this specific Marqués de Riscal in Rioja Alavesa); In 2007, on the occasion of a series in point may be the Somontano privileged position when it comes of articles on wine tourism (Spain wine was sold in bulk, often to environment; by perfecting by using cutting-edge bottle and route (Huesca, Aragón). Launched to agriculture in general and Gourmetour Nos. 70 and 71), Celia flavored wines abroad. Over the monovarietal wines and creating packaging design; and increasingly in 2006, interest has grown viticulture in particular. But not Hernando suggested to venture out past 25 years, however, vintners particular coupages which by opening up wineries and so exponentially that statistics only that: Spain’s dense history, on any of the recommended wine everywhere in Spain are consistently prove to be great vineyards to visitors. As a result, for 2010 alone revealed the sizeable steeped in the longtime and lasting routes “before word got out…”. increasingly and successfully and get outstanding ratings; with the invaluable assistance That was not that long ago, one number of 49,000 visitors. influence of different cultures, has stamping their own mark on their by consciously preserving of the latest internet, navigation might argue, but there is little Yet such success can only left its traces throughout the products, clearly linking them to the architectural features of their and tracking technology, Spain is doubt that word actually did get be achieved through the natural country, where castles, ramparts, their terroir. This evermore diverse original cellars (like the Puig i fast becoming a much sought-after out and that, thanks to a concerted confluence of circumstances aqueducts, cathedrals, bridges, and highly enticing winescape is Cadafalch Modernist winery destination for wine travelers from effort by public institutions, private together with the firm will to and century-old farmsteads and achieved through the effective of Codorníu in Penedès) or by around the world. Well over two companies and the local propitiate its synergy. Situated in wine cellars all still tell tales of its recovery and rehabilitation of investing them with a spectacular million visitors a year and rising! population, Spain’s wine route southern Europe and thanks to rich and variegated past. Tradition

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and folklore have been kept alive array of interrelated activities everywhere, resulting in a wealth with wine at their core. Thus, of age-old handcrafting, regional the wine routes offered are most dance and music and a yearly frequently directly related calendar chockfull of merry, to a specific designation of origin. colorful (and at times outrageous) But if you think of a wine route festivals, not lastly in celebration as a neatly dotted line on a map, of the country’s widely-praised you need to think again, as you gastronomy and formidable wines. may have to tailor your trip around wine country, which in itself is, Finding your way of course, a great pleasure. No architecture in La Rioja; or you may doubt that today a great source Wine tourism, of course, refers have a preference for a single grape for wine route scouting is to all leisure and travel activities variety and want to check out its the internet. Yet the notorious centering directly or indirectly terroir; you have heard about the problem here is the overwhelming on wine and all that surrounds it. new exciting Spanish rosés and information overload, and wine Maria Fustero, a board member would enjoy visiting one or two tourism is no exception. of the Acadèmia de Tastavins (wine production areas when the climate culture and tasting school since is perfect to sample them nicely 1964) of Vilafranca del Penedès, chilled overlooking the vineyards Mapping your route sums up some of the advantages in, let’s say, the lofty hills of In view of Spain’s enormous of enotourism: “Routes are not Navarre; by chance you tasted potential to attract wine travelers, rigid, you can turn in any direction; a lovely coupage from DO Toro and keenly aware of the fact that they are flexible, you are free at home and now want to find out a more cohesive approach would to choose and not squeezed into a more about its makers and perhaps greatly contribute to substantiating prepackaged program; wine culture even meet them; or what about an the offer, ACEVIN (Spanish means no time limits, wine tourism introduction to pruning in January? Association of Wine Cities) was likewise.” Proper wine tourism is Just some food (or wine) for founded in 2001 under the antithetic to mass tourism and also thought before you start planning. auspices of Spain’s Ministries of requires some previous homework But in a country with the largest Tourism and the Environment and by the traveler. Criteria for surface of vineyards in the world is part of RECEVIN, the European planning a wine trip to Spain may (1.1 million ha / 2.7 million acres), Network of Wine Cities. RECEVIN vary widely: You have scheduled over 80 DOs (Designations of is an association of different a business meeting in Barcelona, Origin) for wine and around 5,000 municipal administrations in wine so why not take a side trip to the bodegas (wineries), the choice, regions which has the goal of Priorat or Penedès areas?; you have albeit great, is not easy. Over the integrating resources and services chosen a golf holiday in trendy past 15 years, the DO areas and so as to ensure optimal global Marbella and may want to give respective wineries have taken great quality while simultaneously corresponding certificate is granted. page 41) will give you a synopsis cultural and historic heritage sites; your clubs a few days rest to find strides and made investments in preserving the uniqueness of each Today the association comprises of the wine-related history of each festivals; gastronomy; as well as out about Málaga or sherry wines; improving and consolidating their area and product offered. 21 wine routes throughout the specific wine area and provides other interesting activities, you feel burnt-out and yearn for organizational structures, visitor Membership in ACEVIN requires country, from emblematic ones like information on how to get there; providing the appropriate search some peace and relaxation, so you and tasting facilities and rigorous compilance with a series Rioja Alavesa or Penedès to routes grapes grown and wines produced; engine to get the specifics to head to a wine spa set against promotional efforts, together with of quality standards and self- as-yet less traveled like Alicante or local resources such as hotels, spas, configure your route. breathtakingly beautiful vanguard the direct implication of a wide regulatory rules before the El Bierzo. The website (Websites, tasting facilities, museums etc.; If that association is primarily

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centered on the wine sector, If you just feel like venturing out some 40 km (25 mi) south of production is already organically the tourism sector, with very on your own or deciding on the Barcelona and not even 20 km grown and his goal is for it to similar goals in mind, has created spur of the moment, there are (12.5 mi) from the ebullient become the first fully organic DO the Spanish Food and Wine many national and international Mediterranean shore, and is a in the world. Their winery receives Tourism Association. Its approach travel guides which increasingly welcome (although not yet fully some 5,000 visitors per year. is less institutional and more focus on wine tourism. A great exploited) hinterland for wine Nearby lies smaller Cavas Guilera pragmatic, with links to a number source for Spain is the traditional visitors to the area. Watched over owned by Pere Guilera, who is VP of selected agencies operating both Repsol Guide, which has continued and protected from the north by of the Subirats Tourist Board and in Spain and abroad and offering a its longstanding success with the majestic massif of Montserrat heads the organization of the clearly client-oriented service. a comprehensive, user-friendly and tucked in between the coastal Congress for Arts, Wine Landscapes It proposes a number of already online version (available in and pre-coastal mountain ranges and Wine Tourism, with the laid-out yet always adaptable English), specifically focusing lies the magnificent vine-strewn ambitious goal of taking all the routes, but is also most proficient on wine and gastronomic tourism. Central Valley. No visitor should in made-to-measure trips. This year, in staying with miss the vantage point at the Iglesia A good example is A Taste of Spain, the times, Repsol has launched de Nuestra Señora de Foix to drink a Spanish operator with a highly a free application available in this gorgeous panorama, as expert multi-lingual staff fully for downloading to the iPad, stretched out before you lies the Websites focused on gastronomic trips, punctually tracking your specific landscape that yields the of which wines are an intrinsic location to inform you about prestigious wines and world- ingredient. Just reading the nearby facilities. Yet as essential famous cavas of DO Penedès, DO Information on enotourism and routes contents of their website will as the latest technology is, Cava and DO Catalunya. It will transport you to the rolling hills it remains only a tool to help certainly help you understand the www.wineroutesofspain.com transport the traveler into ACEVIN (Spanish Association of Wine and shadowy yeast-scented caves idiosyncrasy of local viticulture. the bounties and depths Cities). ACEVIN recommended routes of Spain, and transmit the joy “Cava grapes (principally Macabeo, covering most of the national territory, of millennia old-wine culture. of a great wine paired with a superb Xarel·lo and Parellada, although including the islands. (Spanish) meal. Imagine what they can new varieties like Pinot Noir and www.enoturismoygastronomia.com do for you in real life! Genius loci Chardonnay are successfully The Spanish Food and Wine Tourism Association (English, Spanish) Another example is Cellar Tours, Wine culture is imperatively experimented with) mainly proceed a US-based agency with specific linked to the land, and from the valley as they need www.guiarepsol.com/es_en/gastrono freshness, while the higher mia/rutas_denominacion_origenm expertise in top-of-the-line enotourism—like no other tourist (English, Spanish) customized wine routes worldwide. activity—brings the traveler calcareous slopes imprint more Their offer in Spain is especially irremediably and desirably in touch character, more terroir,” explains creative. Who wouldn’t be tempted with the genius loci, the spirit of Josep Maria Albet, the newly by an Art, Wine and Design Route each specific place. So let us try to elected President of DO Penedès. or a Spanish Odyssey Wine capture the spirit of a wine region Its fabulous still wines constitute Vacation? Response has been which, despite receiving the largest only 10% of total regional optimal. “Spain is definitely one number of visitors (almost 500,000 production. Albet and his brother Operators of our most popular destinations,” a year) and having pioneered wine Antoni are the third generation www.atasteofspain.com explains Gen McCarthy, Cellar tourism in Spain, has preserved a running the winery Albet i Noya A Taste of Spain (English) Tours’ dynamic representative in remarkable authenticity, and as in Sant Pau d’Ordal, one of Spain’s www.cellartours.com Spain, adding “It has grown such is no doubt paradigmatic for earliest and leading organic wine Cellar Tours (English) phenomenally for us over the years, other wine areas in Spain. producers. He emphasizes that now www.elmolitours.com and in fact it’s still growing.” The Penedès region is situated well over 50% of DO Penedès El Moli Tours (Catalan, English, Spanish)

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necessary measures to preserve prestige. A number of international other regions and wineries furrowed hands, but above all it is the case of the Cusiné family take you through the gently rolling the landscape and to combat experts in landscape preservation and created the Vintur Project means pride and affability. We have of Parés Baltà, where the fifth vineyards in the valley, up into increasing urbanization with and enotourism are regularly called for assessing wine tourism seen it at Albet i Noya; Pere generation is now gradually taking the near-inaccessible slopes, where “ruralization”, as coined by Ton in to participate, like Paul Wagner standards and regulations for wine Aguilera is assisted by his daughter over, not only Josep and Joan the Foix River has its source and Mata from prominent Cavas from Napa Valley, or Rainer Brusis, tourism of a wider European scope, in charge of PR, marketing and Cusiné but also their young wives, where small terraced patches of Recaredo. Preserving what a wine tourism consultant from for RECEVIN. design; Josep Ventura from Mas a pharmacist and a chemist, now vines are grown to perfection. Lawrence Durrell (British writer, Barcelona who, commissioned by Intrinsic to the spirit of place are Bertran has made a leap forward accomplished enologists who are “Ninety percent of wine tourists 1912-1990) called “the essence the provincial Chamber of its people. Not only the smaller now that his son and daughter taking the business to new heights, use the car, but it’s biking which of landscape values” (The Spirit of Commerce, drafted a strategic plan but also the large, world-renowned work with him, building new as their wines are receiving truly brings you in touch with Place, 1969) means the responsible for the development of wine and wineries—like Torres, Freixenet premises and planning to take impressive international ratings. the terroir,” stresses Maria Fustero. and sustainable modernization, cava tourism in the Penedès region. and Codorníu—are family-owned production of their excellent cavas If you want an unforgettable tour And this is exactly what Paddy expansion and promotion of a Presented in 2005, it has meant a and also family-run. It means up to 100,000 bottles; several to see for yourself what efforts and Mannion understood a long time medium that has and will afford true turnaround in the region with dedication, perseverance, generations of the famous Torres expertise underlie each bottle ago. Mannion is an Irish expat who, this region, as well as others in highly tangible results. Since then, intergenerational commitment; family still live and work on the produced and sip you take, visit despite his tall unequivocally non- Spain, long-term prosperity and Brusis has created similar plans for it means calloused and purple original estate; but especially telling their vineyards in a 4x4, which will Mediterranean physique, has

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website, including suggestions the prestigious España Discovery for wine trips, often in combination guide. He also offers a tasting with the cultural offer, like the session of 25 different grape magnificent Modernist heritage varietals he specially grows on a of this area. She is very pleased plot near the main house. with the ever greater impulse wine In-house shops get an increasingly tourism is taking, not in the last attractive image and are handled place thanks to the collaboration more efficiently in regard to display, and new initiatives among wineries. invoicing and shipping. Onsite It is unsurprising that legendary wine sales are growing to such an Bodegas Torres which, besides its extent that at Albet i Noya, for 10,000 professionals, receives example, it constitutes the largest around 100,000 visitors a year, single point of sale. Asked about offers spectacular visiting facilities. the price of winery visits, Salas completely integrated into local stopping here and there to sample where Florian (from Germany) welcome you. Here you will savor One is their open train, which is firm: “Only by charging a fee society. He perfectly masters both different grape varieties, visit and Verónica (from Catalonia) the best and most delicately wood- enters a tunnel of wine seasons for visits and tastings will we be Spanish and Catalan and has a church, tour a winery, participate have created an atmosphere wholly fire grilled dishes you could ever displaying a mega video screen and able to keep up quality.” Quality acquired in-depth knowledge on in a tasting, and enjoy local food. conducive to relaxation and imagine: Roasted fresh duck liver indeed comes with structure, the history, landscape, amenities It is undoubtedly one more success filling the air with corresponding wellbeing, and that includes their with a confit of the delicious efficiency, dedication and trained and wine culture of the area, story, and he’s taking it further by wafts of burnt vines, the scent of organic cuisine often made with recovered Ordal peach, Tiny personnel. But let nobody be of which he is proud and at all organizing the Penedès Greenways fermentation, etc., and then crosses produce from their own garden. slightly pink lamb cutlets with alarmed, prices are extremely times ready to share with friends and reaching agreements with a the vineyards, entering the barrel- In Sant Pere de Ribes, just 3 km parsley topped chickpeas from reasonable and are based on a and clients. “We would never have number of stations in the area to stocked bodega where the history (1.9 mi) from glamorous coastal Anoia, Cod stuffed with squash rigorous price/quality ratio. found all these exciting places on allow bikes to be deposited there. of wine is shown, and finishes off Sitges, you will find Ostería Ibai, flowers on a bed of roasted our own,” smiles Ralph Strauss, an Business keeps growing! with a tasting. Full explanation is Not only wineries but also other a pretty country inn at the edge samfaina (ratatouille) and, from architect from Brentwood, CA. He given in over ten languages through branches of wine tourism are of a riverbed, overlooking the November to March, his widely- is treating his two sons (studying Embracing specially-provided headphones. increasingly jumping on the whitewashed village. Here also known grilled artichokes. All wines architecture and enology) to a trip Their premises also include an bandwagon. Probably due to produce comes from their own and cavas from his impressive wine in the Penedès and for lack of time enotourism excellent restaurant and auditorium the vicinity of Barcelona and the vegetable garden and bread is list are served in Riedel glasses. is driven around in Mannion’s van. All agents involved are keenly and, like other large wineries such coastal area, and in contrast to freshly baked every morning Satisfaction guaranteed! But El Moli Tours (named after the aware that enotourism is intrinsic as Vallformosa, they host events, other emblematic wine areas like for a delightful breakfast before The two major towns in the region, old paper mill Mannion lives in) to a new kind of knowledgeable, from conferences to weddings. La Rioja, good restaurants and you head into wine country. And around which many of the bodegas specializes in biking tours, mainly well-documented traveler who But small- and medium-sized accommodation facilities are as-yet if you feel like being pampered, are clustered, are Vilafranca (the laid out on the old, mostly flat rural knows what he or she wants. wineries are definitely doing their not numerous in the Penedès you may want to drive up to Can region’s capital) and Sant Sadurní roads away from traffic, lined by Quality and personal attention are share in creating their own special region. But not to worry because Bonastre, the region’s sole wine d’Anoia, and here also things are vineyards in every nook and cranny key. “Practically all wineries are touch through innovative proposals you’ll be able to sample some of the spa, located in Masquefa with changing to cater to national and and dotted with old masías (the now investing in offering up-to- and in simply making things more best regional cuisine with a special astonishing views of Montserrat international wine travelers. Cal typical Catalan farmhouses). He date differentiated visiting and visitor-friendly. Pere Aguilera shows emphasis on local products at a and a splendid dining facility Ton is a family-run restaurant in will pick you up at the train station tasting facilities,” says Nuria Salas a patch of land he has habilitated number of places throughout the called The Barrels Room, housed Vilafranca just off the beautiful in nearby Vilafranca del Penedès (a of Consorci de Promoció Turística for caravan parking. Accordingly, area. Food is outstanding at two in a 19th-century cellar. tree-lined Rambla de Nuestra 50 minute ride from Barcelona), de l’Alt Penedès, the institution he and a number of wineries in recommendable rural hotels at In the small village square in Sant Señora. “This year has been drive you to his bike depot in of reference in the area, offering the area are responding to a almost opposite ends of the Pau d’Ordal you will find Cal Xim, spectacular,” says chef Ton “with Torrelles, and off you go leisurely courses and workshops as well potential client sector and have Penedès region: Cal Ruget Biohotel, where charming Santi Amigó, a visitors from the US, Singapore, pedaling into wine country, as a comprehensive, well-structured consequently been included in a charming getaway in Vilobí, local TV personality, will heartily Russia, Japan…” It must be his

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delicate meat filled mini-cannelloni sure to walk over to the Forn street markers have a cava cork quality chocolates which November 2011.developed It included into herae ormuin anych other- wine (as traditional here as in Italy) de Sant Joan bakery to sample their shape, on the main pedestrian are exported worldwide, they a short film contestdemanded and showcases leisurdestinatione activity throughout Spain, a in a wild mushroom sauce, or sweet coca (flat pastry), and street you will find Cal Feru, produce chocolate cava bottle corks the best of moviesand, related o fto course,sort ther of script.e Nowis it’s up to you to perhaps his almost airborne cod especially their traditional cataníes, a pretty wine shop which also and caps filled with a delicious viniculture, wine and cava. The put it in practice and start having puffs, fresh shrimp from nearby caramelized almonds coated offers tastings, vineyard walks cream of marc de cava. They also Vijazz festival anis celebratedever-incr every easingfun. numberBut first make sure to pour Vilanova, a silky magret of with cream and dusted with and even personalizes your wine organize chocolate pairings with first week of Julyof and combineswell-organizedyourself a glassand of your favorite autochthonous duck, crisp chocolate powder. Be warned, bottles. Yet what certainly will regional wines and cavas, a large wine fair, where around 50 Spanish wine. ¡Salud amigos! poularde from Penedès... all very they are addictive. And of course surprise you when you enter this and plans are underway to open a regional wineriesdifparticipateferentiated with Spanish wine professionally and affably served let yourself be surprised by the town is the wonderfully pungent comprehensive chocolate museum. their products destinationsand tastings, with a to ensurAnke vane Wthatijck Adán is a sociologist by Ton’s sister and brother-in-law. virtual and interactive exhibition scent of roasted cocoa beans And last but not least, like in other free open air jazz festival featuring and has a Master’s degree in The five-star hotel Torner i Güell at Vinseum, the local wine coming from Simón Coll, the oldest wine regions, there is a wealth of such celebritiesyour as Branfor specificd expectationsgastronomy from Boston University. in Vilafranca, housed in a beautiful museum housed in the magnificent uninterruptedly operating thematic events, contests and Marsalis and Randyfor a Br fascinating,ecker. Herinstructive articles have appeared in The rehabilitated Modernist mansion, 12th century Royal Palace, at chocolate factory in Spain, still festivals. The first edition of Most, This article is meant to give you Boston Globe. has a bar with over 40 different present being refurbished. owned by the same family. Besides the new European film festival, an insight intoand all of thepleasur good e-filled wine gins. And while in Vilafranca, make In Sant Sadurní, where cast iron an extensive product line of top- took place in Vilafranca in and exciting thingsvacation awaiting ar youe met.

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delicate meat filled mini-cannelloni sure to walk over to the Forn street markers have a cava cork quality chocolates which November 2011. It included here or in any other wine (as traditional here as in Italy) de Sant Joan bakery to sample their shape, on the main pedestrian are exported worldwide, they a short film contest and showcases destination throughout Spain, a in a wild mushroom sauce, or sweet coca (flat pastry), and street you will find Cal Feru, produce chocolate cava bottle corks the best of movies related to sort of script. Now it’s up to you to perhaps his almost airborne cod especially their traditional cataníes, a pretty wine shop which also and caps filled with a delicious viniculture, wine and cava. The put it in practice and start having puffs, fresh shrimp from nearby caramelized almonds coated offers tastings, vineyard walks cream of marc de cava. They also Vijazz festival is celebrated every fun. But first make sure to pour Vilanova, a silky magret of with cream and dusted with and even personalizes your wine organize chocolate pairings with first week of July and combines yourself a glass of your favorite autochthonous duck, crisp chocolate powder. Be warned, bottles. Yet what certainly will regional wines and cavas, a large wine fair, where around 50 Spanish wine. ¡Salud amigos! poularde from Penedès... all very they are addictive. And of course surprise you when you enter this and plans are underway to open a regional wineries participate with professionally and affably served let yourself be surprised by the town is the wonderfully pungent comprehensive chocolate museum. their products and tastings, with a Anke van Wijck Adán is a sociologist by Ton’s sister and brother-in-law. virtual and interactive exhibition scent of roasted cocoa beans And last but not least, like in other free open air jazz festival featuring and has a Master’s degree in The five-star hotel Torner i Güell at Vinseum, the local wine coming from Simón Coll, the oldest wine regions, there is a wealth of such celebrities as Branford gastronomy from Boston University. in Vilafranca, housed in a beautiful museum housed in the magnificent uninterruptedly operating thematic events, contests and Marsalis and Randy Brecker. Her articles have appeared in The rehabilitated Modernist mansion, 12th century Royal Palace, at chocolate factory in Spain, still festivals. The first edition of Most, This article is meant to give you Boston Globe. has a bar with over 40 different present being refurbished. owned by the same family. Besides the new European film festival, an insight into all of the good gins. And while in Vilafranca, make In Sant Sadurní, where cast iron an extensive product line of top- took place in Vilafranca in and exciting things awaiting you

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32 JANUARY-APRIL 2012 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 3349 06_AF_FOODBASIC_AJO_apertura3q6.qxd 10/11/11 13:35 Página 48 GARLIC The purple rose of La Mancha

Spain is one of the top five per capita producers of garlic in the world, and accounts for over two-thirds of all garlic grown in Europe. The so-called stinking rose is central to Spanish culinary customs and traditions, and John Barlow travels to the plains of La Mancha in search of the country’s stellar product, the purple garlic of Las Pedroñeras.

JANUARY-APRIL 2012 SPAIN GOURMETOUR 49 FOOD BASICS 51 ). ), l om ole. ead), vantes eece Don om and br of raw garlic (cold soup oles (olive oil (garlic ta skoroda f eel, and ominent r ead, garlic, e; whenever op for his spoof ied garlic sauces esh stock), salsa vizcaína y heart.” Cer Don Quixote dy peasant gir gin olive oil, salt y ( a down-to-earth, pil-pils ali-olis gazpacho , cucumber a vir (a cold soup made fr ed pepper sauce of the because, despite the castles, such that a section of the such that a section almonds, br om tomato, garlic, sweet ch of his beloved “lady” esented ) of Galician fish dishes, , extr “gave me a whif even in Spain the old epr chivalric literatur innumerable kinds fr thought to have chosen the t om the simple fr ound ajada In Spanish cooking too, it has always assumed a pr Fr ( Andalusian Mancha as the setting for mayonnaise), the deluded knight errant goes in sear Dulcinea, but finally discovers that she is a stur who that made my head r poisoned my ver is agricultural landscape of La to garlic, and in ancient Gr to garlic, and in ancient garlic in daily the significance of life was market in Athens was simply known as the garlic ( ajoblanco and vinegar), gr water it r agricultural backdr of garlic is mentioned in the book, made fr bell pepper plus stews and casser of innumerable places... a Spanish kitchen without garlic is simply unimaginable. Ye ambivalence occasionally surfaces. For example, in Quixote to traditional garlic soup and emulsionated in fr the rich r Basque Countr sor d ll ﬁnd ecur operties was climates, ences ld, the ICEX e that I’ve ICEX outes egions have © © efer S TIONS O s her owing , and it odisiac. ablets (1600- er nomads in the ch of the best ecognized: in TEXT PHOT lic gr alencia and engthen and e full of r QUINO MARÍN ILLUSTRA a. All these r ge quantities to the HN BARLOW/ -gather ose known to Man. JO AMADOR TORIL/ ecipes in the wor s plant is thought to have d to China and westwar ope. Its medicinal pr s in La Mancha that you’ emadur neyed in sear e Babylonian T human civilization. A pr today’ ect on their bodies and also l etty good gar f ancient Egypt eating garlic was thought to str invigorate the body given in lar slaves who built the pyramids. Roman gladiators also ate it, believing that it had a stimulating ef worked as an aphr As far as cooking goes, the oldest known r Ya 1700 BC), ar stinking r The cultivation of garlic goes hand in hand with the development of of been cultivated 10,000 years ago by hunter central Asian mountains, then carried along the trade r eastwar to Eur have long been r garlic output, followed by Andalusia, Castile-Leon, V Extr pr but it’ garlic heaven, and it’ jour s y ed en the s oad he left id (novel eat Soﬁa ewolves e centur vantes in oduct, ope and th ole in the food oughout ess with y), its ar the windmills, but that still n Eur ed wimple. La om the window Don Quixote op, e for centur e closely at Spain’ th es. It also has an Don Quixote. y windmills thought ected by Anthony Mann ound 45% of its annual

epel demons, wer et it has a complicated egion of Castile-La Mancha den of Eden, it has been (dir emind myself how gr es of souther

vantes’ en looked in a r utation. Said to have appear look mor d Spain “old Spain”. Fr my hotel I look up and see ationship with garlic, I’ve come e the ver l p 50 GARLIC Belmonte Castle, the 15 plains immediately evoke the sense of of Charlton Heston and Sofia Lor got all steamed-up in the movie Gothic-Moorish fortr massive zigzag walls wher Lor Mancha accounts for half of Spain’ Cer But I’m not her or to r in 1961); and just down the r ar to be the ones described in El Cid straight out of to the r (center of Spain). Dotted with ancient castles and windmills ol To re Stepping back into 150,000 ton cr leaves in excess of two kilos (4.4 lb) per person for home consumption. especially important r cultur the Mediterranean basin. Spain exports ar the Gar used to r and vampir world. Y re in the footprint of Satan after Garlic is a truly global pr Garlic is a truly global found in kitchens thr written by Miguel de Cer the early 17 06_AF_FOODBASIC_AJO.qxd 11/11/11 08:31 Página 50 Página 08:31 11/11/11 06_AF_FOODBASIC_AJO.qxd FOOD BASICS 51 ). ), l om ole. ead), vantes eece Don om and br of raw garlic (cold soup oles (olive oil (garlic ta skoroda f eel, and ominent r ead, garlic, e; whenever op for his spoof ied garlic sauces esh stock), salsa vizcaína y heart.” Cer Don Quixote dy peasant gir gin olive oil, salt y ( a down-to-earth, pil-pils ali-olis gazpacho , cucumber a vir (a cold soup made fr ed pepper sauce of the because, despite the castles, such that a section of the such that a section almonds, br om tomato, garlic, sweet ch of his beloved “lady” esented ) of Galician fish dishes, , extr “gave me a whif even in Spain the old epr chivalric literatur innumerable kinds fr thought to have chosen the t om the simple fr ound ajada In Spanish cooking too, it has always assumed a pr Fr ( Andalusian Mancha as the setting for mayonnaise), the deluded knight errant goes in sear Dulcinea, but finally discovers that she is a stur who that made my head r poisoned my ver is agricultural landscape of La to garlic, and in ancient Gr to garlic, and in ancient garlic in daily the significance of life was market in Athens was simply known as the garlic ( ajoblanco and vinegar), gr water it r agricultural backdr of garlic is mentioned in the book, made fr bell pepper plus stews and casser of innumerable places... a Spanish kitchen without garlic is simply unimaginable. Ye ambivalence occasionally surfaces. For example, in Quixote to traditional garlic soup and emulsionated in fr the rich r Basque Countr sor d ll ﬁnd ecur operties was climates, ences ld, the ICEX e that I’ve ICEX outes egions have © © efer S TIONS O s her owing , and it odisiac. ablets (1600- er nomads in the ch of the best ecognized: in TEXT PHOT lic gr alencia and engthen and e full of r QUINO MARÍN ILLUSTRA a. All these r ge quantities to the HN BARLOW/ -gather ose known to Man. JO AMADOR TORIL/ ecipes in the wor s plant is thought to have d to China and westwar ope. Its medicinal pr s in La Mancha that you’ emadur neyed in sear e Babylonian T human civilization. A pr today’ ect on their bodies and also l etty good gar f stinking r The cultivation of garlic goes hand in hand with the development of of been cultivated 10,000 years ago by hunter central Asian mountains, then carried along the trade r eastwar to Eur have long been r ancient Egypt eating garlic was thought to str invigorate the body given in lar slaves who built the pyramids. Roman gladiators also ate it, believing that it had a stimulating ef worked as an aphr As far as cooking goes, the oldest known r Ya 1700 BC), ar garlic output, followed by Andalusia, Castile-Leon, V Extr pr but it’ garlic heaven, and it’ jour s y ed en the s oad he left id (novel eat Soﬁa ewolves e centur vantes in oduct, ope and th ole in the food oughout ess with y), its ar the windmills, but that still n Eur ed wimple. La om the window Don Quixote op, e for centur e closely at Spain’ th es. It also has an Don Quixote. y windmills thought ected by Anthony Mann ound 45% of its annual epel demons, wer et it has a complicated egion of Castile-La Mancha den of Eden, it has been (dir emind myself how gr es of souther vantes’ en looked in a r utation. Said to have appear look mor d Spain “old Spain”. Fr my hotel I look up and see ationship with garlic, I’ve come l e the ver p 50 GARLIC plains immediately evoke the sense of of Belmonte Castle, the 15 Gothic-Moorish fortr massive zigzag walls wher Charlton Heston and Sofia Lor got all steamed-up in the movie Garlic is a truly global pr Garlic is a truly global found in kitchens thr world. Y re in the footprint of Satan after the Gar used to r and vampir especially important r cultur the Mediterranean basin. Spain exports ar 150,000 ton cr leaves in excess of two kilos (4.4 lb) per person for home consumption. Stepping back into ol To re to the r (center of Spain). Dotted with ancient castles and windmills straight out of El Cid in 1961); and just down the r ar to be the ones described in Cer But I’m not her or to r Lor Mancha accounts for half of Spain’ written by Miguel de Cer the early 17 06_AF_FOODBASIC_AJO.qxd 11/11/11 08:31 Página 50 Página 08:31 11/11/11 06_AF_FOODBASIC_AJO.qxd 06_AF_FOODBASIC_AJO.qxd 11/11/11 02:22 Página 52 F GARLIC O O D B A S I C S

it is as a symbol of the quotidian, an annual chore (at about 30º C / of the squalor and smell of the low- 86º F, one has some sympathy); for born rural classes. Julio, though, the dark terracotta earth is invested with an almost The stinking rose magical richness. And, despite the heat, I can see why. of Las Pedroñeras From the vantage of some high- And garlic does, of course, stink. lying scrub land, fragrant wild Each odor-free clove is like a tiny thyme under foot, we look out time capsule of ﬂavor and smell. across the plains. There’s a hardy Its pungency is only released once grandeur to the place, how it the ﬂesh is cut or bruised, at which stretches out for miles with little point a volatile compound known more than the vague indentations as allicin is produced, giving garlic of human life, small villages for the extreme continental climate, with its characteristic smell and taste. All main part, plus the odd zigzaggy searingly hot summers. So, perfect alliums (garlic, onions, leeks, chives) castle. And in every direction are garlic country. And the center of it produce such compounds, known fields of onions and garlic, cereals, all is a town called Las Pedroñeras, as secondary metabolites. They ward olives, sunflowers, and the low- the kilometre zero of garlic. off predators, disease and parasites, lying grapevines characteristic of Julio Bacete is the President of whilst attracting pollinators. La Mancha. Plus, the land here Coopaman, an umbrella- As to the plant itself, it thrives in offers up wild partridge, quail, hare cooperative that groups together and rabbit, as well as grazing land a well-drained sandy loam with six garlic-producing cooperatives in for sheep and goats. The weather some clay and chalk, and also likes Las Pedroñeras and the surrounding might be a bit extreme, then, but potassium and magnesium, all of area. He’s a farmer to the core, born this is a source of an exceptional which is typical of the soil profile of on the land, and as we drive out abundance of edible riches. the elevated plateau of La Mancha, to some of his own plantations it The first garlic-based dish I tried where the best garlic can be found. becomes clear that he couldn’t ever when I arrived was ajoarriero. It is The Arabs called these plains the really leave. His 15-year-old son is said to have originated with the “wilderness” or “dry land”, but a helping in the fields right now, but mule drivers (arrieros), who for better description might be the for the young lad it’s something of centuries were the transporters of madly changeable lands. Garlic needs cold to germinate (so don’t refrigerate it at home; this will encourage premature sprouting). Planting tends to be done in the middle of winter, when the Manchegan plains are bitterly cold, with temperatures well below freezing and heavy snowfall common. After a chilly start, however, garlic likes it hot and dry. Fortunately, the plains of La Mancha are blessed with an

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goods across Spain’s vast taste. The particular strain grown third of all garlic grown in Spain. It countryside, camping on the plains in Las Pedroñeras derives from a is exported to North Africa, South for days at a time and cooking variety originating in nearby Cuenca America, and to most of Europe for themselves. A bit of dried fish (ajo morado de Cuenca), and has (particularly the United Kingdom, boiled up with a potato, then adapted and developed over the France, Germany and Italy), and ground to a paste with a clove of centuries to the special conditions in seems to make converts wherever garlic and some olive oil. That’s it. Las Pedroñeras to become the very it goes: three years ago a few Ajoarriero figures on a lot of menus supreme example of the species, containers were sent to Australia in La Mancha, and is often topped with an exceptional intensity. This to test the market; this year 200 off with walnuts and boiled egg. increased strength, though, is not tons were sent. Despite the size The result? Something far more simply a stronger version of other of the operation, many individual subtle and delicate than it promises, garlic; it is complex, with an almost producers are small-scale, its simplicity enhanced by the sweet edge to its ultra-spiciness. sometimes growing for their own history that comes with it, a sort Perhaps because of its elevated consumption and a bit of extra of historical terroir at its tastiest. allicin content, the Las Pedroñeras income, and some with as little On the plains of La Mancha you garlic keeps longer. All garlic should as half a hectare (1.2 acres) of land. get the sense that great regional be stored at room temperature, A two-tier system of local and food can be had almost anywhere. somewhere ventilated and cool, central cooperatives (such a Coopaman) means that even There’s something robust about preferably in a clay pot with holes in the smallest growers can sell the cooking that takes you right it, where it will last for between 2 to to the four corners of the world. back to the times of Don Quixote, 6 weeks, or a little longer in the case Of the three types of garlic the ingredients still taken straight of our purple rose from La Mancha. commonly grown in Spain— A history of from the land. Such is the case with The garlic from Las Pedroñeras had traditional white, newer Chinese morteruelo, pig’s liver and small no problem fulfilling the stringent medical uses strains (often a light pink in game cooked in stock (and garlic), criteria for Protected Geographical color and mild in taste) then seasoned with sweet spices Indication (PGI) status, within the and purple—the latter For its strength-giving properties, In the late 19th century, Louis earlier methods. These extracts EC’s Protected Geographical Status and turned into a soft meat mash. harvests latest (end garlic was given to the slaves Pasteur demonstrated garlic’s natural have been studied at the Ramón y framework (varietal excellence, building the pyramids in ancient antibiotic properties. More recently, Cajal Hospital in Madrid, and have Again, turbo-powered terroir and Egypt, to Greek soldiers before research has suggested that the been found to be more effective than utterly fantastic. I would go on to optimum growing conditions, battle, and to Roman soldiers, antibacterial properties of allicin might some currently used medicines in have both ajoarriero and morteruelo location-specific history), and in oarsmen and other physical workers. form the basis of an effective combating the bacteria responsible again during my stay, although in 2002 achieved the coveted PGI Dioscorides’ (c. 40-90 AD) De treatment of MRSA-related infections. for gastritis, stomach ulcers and MALT status. The PGI’s growing area now lymphoma. Not surprisingly, the somewhat different circumstances... Materia Medica, which was Allicin is thought to have anti- includes around 230 nearby to remain the primary work on botany inflammatory and anti-thrombotic allicin-rich Las Pedroñeras garlic for 1,500 years, lists 23 medicinal properties, to help reduce blood was the most effective. PGI villages, where garlic has uses for garlic, including cleaning pressure, and to maintain a good Researchers at Madrid's Ramón traditionally been the main crop, the arteries, repelling intestinal lipoprotein balance. Yet solid medical y Cajal Hospital are now looking But let us return to garlic. The and where the soil and growing parasites, a mild diuretic against research has often been inconclusive, at other medical applications. Doses variety grown in Las Pedroñeras variouspoisons, and as a palliative not least because the form of garlic of garlic extract have been shown conditions are more or less identical of diarrhea and amoebic dysentery. used in tests varies so much to lead to a reduction of cancerous has cloves of a rich purple color, to those in Las Pedroñeras itself. In folk medicine around the in quality and quantity. cells in patients with prostate cancer, and is generally considered to be Las Pedroñeras is a town of just world, garlic is used variously A research group at the University and the use of the same extracts the best there is. Why? Well, purple 7,000 people, yet these days it to treat arterial tension and as a blood as an aphrodisiac, antipyretic, of Castilla-La Mancha has recently garlic tends to have a greater serves as the center of an annual diuretic, expectorant, sedative, developed a method of obtaining anticoagulant and vasodilator are for asthma, bronchitis, and to freeze-dried extracts of garlic which also being investigated. concentration of allicin than white, production of some 40,000-50,000 stimulate hair growth. preserve higher levels of allicin than and as a consequence has a stronger tons of PGI product, roughly a

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of July) and needs a little more attention in the field. Las Pedroñeras purple garlic also produces slightly fewer and thinner cloves per bulb, and rarely exceeds Extra flor size-grade (bulb diameter of 2.1-2.4 in / 55-60 mm); by contrast the highest size-grades for commercial white and Chinese varieties are Elephant (above 2.7 in / 68 mm) and Jumbo (2.4-2.7 in / 62-68 mm). But does size matter? There is a slight advantage in a larger clove if you’re peeling and chopping lots of them by hand, but there’s no taste benefit at all, and in fact smaller cloves keep longer and offer a slightly enhanced flavor, given that they have a lower water content. The PGI Las Pedroñeras ajoarriero, although Manuel de la garlic does cost slightly more, conform to the stipulated ecotype. Osa’s version of the latter involves but its taste is stronger and more And this attention to quality caviar, which I don’t think would intense (and richer), so you need immediately becomes clear when have been in the saddlebags of less of it, meaning that it is in fact you start cooking. I did a quick many mule drivers 400 years ago. excellent value. At the opposite taste test with two batches of my My lunch companions at Las Rejas end of the grade scale, the smallest own Andalusian gazpacho: two are organizing a purple garlic grades of the PGI purple variety cloves of Las Pedroñeras PGI extravaganza to be held at Fruit offer better value than comparable purple garlic in one batch, three Attraction (October 2011, white and Chinese garlic: if you are cloves of normal white garlic in Madrid), Spain’s international an industrial user, or indeed any the other. The purple variety lent fruit and veg trade fair; the PGI user who doesn’t mind about size, the dish a richer, subtler taste, garlic is finally going to be put the fact that you need less of the making even a simple gazpacho center stage and given the culinary PGI product due to its strength more interesting, with a curiously fanfare it deserves. As we eat, means you win both ways. alluring undercurrent of flavor. Then, I head off for lunch at Las the conversation revolves around Rejas, a Michelin-starred restaurant The main attraction in Las Pedroñeras, and home to With any PGI food you’re also the renowned chef Manuel de la getting an extra level of quality Osa (see Close-up, page 84). Website assurance. The PGI garlic can only The restaurant’s amazing tasting ·www.igpajomorado.es be produced by certified growers, menu uses a lot the local garlic, PGI Ajo Morado de Las and crops are monitored closely for and before long I am reacquainted Pedroñeras Regulatory Council quality and to check that they with both morteruelo and (Spanish)

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the list of speakers for the event, allowing it to be right there, up front a wide-ranging collection of with the other flavors, without ever experts, including chefs, medical being overpowering. These sauces researchers, biologists, remind me what food should be like, anthropologists, specialists in that it should excite and surprise naturopathic medicine... all with and dazzle... Wholehearted and their own story to tell about the genuine, José’s sauces are bottled extraordinary properties of Las antidotes to blandness and Pedroñeras garlic. Meanwhile, predictability. And, of course, the Sergio Giraldo, the restaurant’s jefe key is the deep richness of flavor de cocina, keeps nipping out of the imparted by the purple gold of La kitchen to discuss the garlic-based Mancha: the Las Pedroñeras garlic. catering for the show. By the time So there we have it. From the you read this, the purple-colored Manchegan plains comes the world’s starlet from Las Pedroñeras will foremost gourmet garlic. If you fancy have made its debut in Madrid something milder, there’s plenty as a certified gastronomic star. more garlic to be had in Spain, be it traditional white or pink-blushed Size, strings Chinese varieties, and including the country’s finest gourmet food each clove into the frosty ground his age. As President of the PGI mouth. And they don’t wear a number of ecologically-certified and special sauces stores. The place itself is long with your fingers. Then, by the Association (Asociación IGP Ajo seatbelts. The alioli is knock your growers. Then there are the stalks After lunch I meet Rafael Ramirez, and dark, with the air of a quiet, time harvest came around, the Morado de Las Pedroñeras), he’s socks off stuff, and the tzatziki has of purple garlic, preserved in brine who tells me he is 75. Seventy-five? efficient cottage industry. In the relentless sun would be beating traveled far and wide in the cause such a creamy punch that I ate (brotes de ajo), and germinated garlic I ask several times as I watch him shadows at the back, local women down on your back as you yanked of purple garlic, including “a bit most of it right from the bottle, shoots (brotes germinados de ajo) work. He could be ten years sit around a long table piled high the plants from the arid and now of industrial espionage” in China, letting it glug onto salt crackers; which really sex up your salad bowl. younger, and puts it down to the with garlics, cleaning up the heads shimmeringly hot ground. where he went to sniff out the others at home did the same, and it And the common factor in all this raw purple garlic he eats every day, in preparation for the workshop. “And we didn’t take breaks every five competition in what is the world’s was all gone before we got around is the special cold-hot, damp-dry thinly sliced with tomatoes. On the Garlic in Las Pedroñeras was minutes like they do now,” Rafael largest garlic producer and exporter. to cooking anything even vaguely conditions that make Spain an ideal wall of his workshop is a 70-meter traditionally a family affair, says with mild contempt, as he He was also the first producer Greek. The full range includes place for one of the oldest cultivated (230-ft) string of garlics hanging everyone lending a hand to get effortlessly weaves another string in Las Pedroñeras to make sauces, chimichurri, BBQ and other sauces crops known to Man. from a series of hooks (ristra), as if the sudden deluge of garlics ready of garlics and explains how recent and the results are a little bit for meat, plus several mojos (sauces Rapunzel just called in for a haircut. for market. Come summer harvest, mechanization has put paid special. Question: how often do you made with garlic, olive oil, cumin John Barlow's fiction and non-fiction has Opposite, a framed newspaper both sides of the main road to the worst of the toil in the fields. open a bottle of some fancy-labeled and sweet bell pepper or pimentón been published in eight languages. His cutting describes how this ristra running through the town would Nostalgia? No, I haven’t heard sauce with a tantalizing name, only —a type of paprika from Spain) latest book, Everything But the Squeal, is the longest string of garlics in the be piled high with the stuff, anybody complaining about the to find the contents rather bland? from the Canary Islands (Spain describes a year-long sojourn in his world, and got Las Pedroñeras into the air filled with a sweet, almost demise of the old ways here in Las Industrial food production has Gourmetour No. 68). What strikes adopted homeland of Galicia, northwest the Guinness World Records. sickly aroma, and tiny fragments Pedroñeras. Especially not from José many advantages, but one of the you about each of them is Spain, exploring the gastronomic and Ristras, old-style decorative garlic of the silvery skin carried on the Suárez, the man who brought me downsides is the tendency for the unashamed prominence of the cultural significance of pigs. strings, are Rafael’s business. The breeze like miniature confetti. to the ristra workshop. José’s nothing to be very extraordinary, for garlic, up there at the forefront process involves weaving the bulbs If that sounds picturesque, the company (SalsasJR.com) sells fresh each carefully marketed product to of the taste, not lurking out of sight Visit our website, into lengths of dampened rushes. traditional form of cultivating garlic purple garlic, peeled and ready for be aimed at the middle of the road. in case someone takes offense. www.foodsfromspain.com, in whose This is the last remaining workshop was anything but pretty. Planting kitchen use, and also in preserved José’s sauces are not middle of the However, we might also remember Products & Recipes section you’ll in Las Pedroñeras, and Rafael’s was done by hand in the freezing form. He’s is in his early 70s but, like road. They speed down the fast that this is Las Pedroñeras garlic, find comprehensive information ristras find their way into a lot of cold Manchegan winter, pushing Rafael, has the vitality of a man half lane at 100 mph with a fag in the which has that alluring complexity, about Spanish products.

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Translation The wines have been D Manuel Synonyme.net/©ICEX selected by Víctor B Moreno, the restaurant de la Osa* Photos, recipes A Toya Legido/©ICEX and wine manager at and Tomás Zarza/©ICEX the LasRejas restaurant. S I C S SMOKED AJOARRIERO with herring roe

(Ajoarriero ahumado con huevas de arenque)

Also popularly known as Infuse the cocido stock with the To serve atascaburras, this dish reminds me cod skin, remove the skin and set Fill half of a glass bowl with the the stock aside. Brown the two of the village grocery store where I ajoarriero cream. Drizzle a circle cloves of garlic, add the onion and still buy the cod I use to make it… of green oil around the edge of the leek and fry lightly. Then add the ajoarriero, and add the chopped SERVES 4 potatoes broken into small chunks, the cod, the cod skin (previously chives and herring roe. Finally, For the ajoarriero: 250 g / 9 oz onions; 200 infused in the stock), the bay leaf add the garlic croutons and the g / 7 oz leeks; 2 cloves garlic; 6 ratte and the Boletus edulis. Once this sprouting greens. potatoes; 200 g / 7 oz smoked cod; 100 g mixture has been heated through, / 3 1/2 oz cod skin; 50 g / 2 oz Boletus edulis; Preparation time add the cocido stock and cook for 1 bay leaf; 750 ml / 3 1/4 cup cocido about 25 minutes until the 40 minutes (chickpea, vegetable and meat stew) stock; potatoes are tender. Add the cream, 500 ml / 2 1/6 cups cream; 25 ml / 2 tbsp Recommended wine remove from the heat and blend. garlic-infused oil; 25 ml / 2 tbsp Boletus Vallegarcía Viognier 2009 (Vino Using a sieve, strain the mixture edulis-infused oil; salt. de la Tierra de Castilla), from and emulsify with the garlic- and Bodegas Retuerta del Bullaque. Other ingredients: 10 ml / 2 tsp green oil Boletus edulis-infused oils, then The smoky flavor of the ajoarriero (parsley with sunﬂower oil); garlic croutons; add salt to taste. Chill. ﬁnely chopped chives; 50 g / 2 oz herring roe; is a perfect match for the toasted 10 g / 1/3 oz Boletus edulis; sprouting greens. notes of this barrel-fermented wine.

*For a more in-depth look at the chef, see Close-up

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(Ajoarriero ahumado con huevas de arenque)

*For a more in-depth look at the chef, see Close-up

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Chilled Las Pedroñeras A PHOTOS S AMADOR TORIL/©ICEX I C

ILLUSTRATIONS S QUINO MARÍN PURPLE

Garlic is a truly global product, to garlic, and in ancient Greece found in kitchens throughout the the significance of garlic in daily world. Yet it has a complicated life was such that a section of the GARLIC SOUP reputation. Said to have appeared market in Athens was simply in the footprint of Satan after he left known as the garlic (ta skoroda). (Sopa fría de ajo morado de Las Pedroñeras) the Garden of Eden, it has been In Spanish cooking too, it has used to repel demons, werewolves always assumed a prominent role. and vampires. It also has an From the simple fried garlic sauces especially important role in the food (ajada) of Galician fish dishes, cultures of southern Europe and to traditional garlic soup and the Mediterranean basin. Spain ajoblanco (a cold soup made from exports around 45% of its annual ground almonds, bread, garlic, This dish, a hallmark of our olive oil. Once ready, add the red dice part of the ham and the fried 150,000 ton crop, but that still garlic output, followed by Andalusia, water, extra virgin olive oil, salt hometown of Cuenca, is served pepper reduction along with the garlic and set to one side. leaves in excess of two kilos (4.4 lb) Castile-Leon, Valencia and and vinegar), ali-olis (garlic hot during the cold months and mushroom confit oil and blend To serve chilled when the temperatures with an electric blender until you per person for home consumption. Extremadura. All these regions have mayonnaise), pil-pils (olive oil Take the cocktail glass with the egg rise, and is a recipe that conjures have a smooth texture. Season with pretty good garlic growing climates, emulsionated in fresh stock), yolk and cover with the warm up memories for us all. salt and cumin. Stepping back into but it’s in La Mancha that you’ll find the rich red pepper sauce of the stock. Place in the fridge to allow old Spain garlic heaven, and it’s here that I’ve Basque Country (salsa vizcaína), Parsley oil the gelatine to set. Once ready, journeyed in search of the best Andalusian gazpacho (cold soup SERVES 4 Place the parsley and oil in the place a little red pepper coulis For the red pepper coulis: 5 kg / 11 lb To look more closely at Spain’s stinking rose known to Man. made from tomato, garlic, sweet Thermomix and blend on full (approximately 60 g / 1/4 cup) in red peppers; 500 g / 1 lb 2 oz Ibérico chorizo (a relationship with garlic, I’ve come The cultivation of garlic goes hand bell pepper, cucumber and bread), speed for five minutes. Strain and the center and surround with the type of red sausage); 500 g / 1 lb 2 oz smoked to the region of Castile-La Mancha in hand with the development plus stews and casseroles cool as quickly as possible. parsley oil (again, approximately (center of Spain). Dotted with of human civilization. A precursor of innumerable kinds from Ibérico morcilla (blood sausage); 4 cloves Las Soup 60 g / 1/4 cup). Sprinkle with a ancient castles and windmills of today’s plant is thought to have innumerable places... a Spanish Pedroñeras purple garlic; 1 l / 4 1/4 cup 0.4º olive oil; cumin; 50 g / 4 tbsp mushroom confit little finely chopped garlic and straight out of Don Quixote (novel been cultivated 10,000 years ago kitchen without garlic is simply Separate the egg whites from the oil; 50 g / 2 oz sugar; salt. ham. Just before serving add three unimaginable. yolks, placing the latter in a written by Miguel de Cervantes in by hunter-gatherer nomads in the bread croutons, the fried ham, the the early 17th century), its arid central Asian mountains, then Yet even in Spain the old For the parsley oil: 150 g / 5 1/2 oz parsley cocktail glass and setting to one chervil and the top of the chive. plains immediately evoke the sense carried along the trade routes ambivalence occasionally surfaces. (stalk removed); 1 l / 4 1/4 cup 0.4º olive oil. side. Poach the egg whites. Heat of “old Spain”. From the window eastward to China and westward For example, in Don Quixote the clarified chicken stock and Preparation time For the soup: 2 heads Las Pedroñeras flavor with a head of garlic of my hotel I look up and see to Europe. Its medicinal properties the deluded knight errant goes purple garlic; 100 g / 3 1/2 oz Serrano ham; 60 minutes th chopped in half. Add the gelatine Belmonte Castle, the 15 century have long been recognized: in in search of his beloved “lady” 100 g / 3 1/2 oz round rustic bread; chervil; and allow to cool slightly. Recommended wine Gothic-Moorish fortress with ancient Egypt eating garlic was Dulcinea, but finally discovers chives; 4 eggs; 350 g / 1 1/2 cup clarified Meanwhile, cut thin slices of rustic Vino Manuel de la Osa 2006 (DO massive zigzag walls where thought to strengthen and that she is a sturdy peasant girl chicken stock; 4 g / 0.14 oz isinglass (a neutral bread and rub with half of the head La Mancha), from Bodegas Parra Charlton Heston and Sofia Loren invigorate the body, and it was who “gave me a whiff of raw garlic gelatine); sunflower oil. Jiménez. This is an organic wine got all steamed-up in the movie given in large quantities to the that made my head reel, and of Las Pedroñeras purple garlic. Other ingredients: chervil; chives. with five varieties (Syrah, El Cid (directed by Anthony Mann slaves who built the pyramids. poisoned my very heart.” Cervantes Keep the other half for later. Cut the Tempranillo, Cabernet Franc, in 1961); and just down the road Roman gladiators also ate it, is thought to have chosen the garlic-flavored bread into 1 cm x 1 Red pepper coulis Merlot and Graciano), aged for 12 are the very windmills thought believing that it had a stimulating agricultural landscape of La cm / 0.4 in x 0.4 in squares and Liquidize the red peppers (with the months in French oak. The to be the ones described in effect on their bodies and also Mancha as the setting for Don place in a preheated oven (180ºC / white pith removed), add the sugar powerful flavor of the garlic and Cervantes’ Don Quixote. worked as an aphrodisiac. Quixote because, despite the castles, 356ºF) for four minutes until and reduce to 1/5 of their original the fresh herb touches make the But I’m not here for the windmills, As far as cooking goes, the oldest it represented a down-to-earth, toasted. Slice the ham as finely as quantity. Slice the Ibérico chorizo, dish the perfect match for this or to remind myself how great Sofia known recipes in the world, the agricultural backdrop for his spoof possible and fry in sunflower oil, the smoked Ibérico morcilla and the wine, which has a strong character Loren looked in a red wimple. La Yale Babylonian Tablets (1600- of chivalric literature; whenever then do the same with the half of cloves of garlic, and confit in 0.4º Mancha accounts for half of Spain’s 1700 BC), are full of references garlic is mentioned in the book, the garlic set aside earlier. Finely and is brimming with personality.

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Chilled Las Pedroñeras A S I C PURPLE S GARLIC SOUP (Sopa fría de ajo morado de Las Pedroñeras)

This dish, a hallmark of our olive oil. Once ready, add the red dice part of the ham and the fried hometown of Cuenca, is served pepper reduction along with the garlic and set to one side. hot during the cold months and mushroom confit oil and blend To serve chilled when the temperatures with an electric blender until you Take the cocktail glass with the egg rise, and is a recipe that conjures have a smooth texture. Season with yolk and cover with the warm up memories for us all. salt and cumin. stock. Place in the fridge to allow Parsley oil the gelatine to set. Once ready, SERVES 4 Place the parsley and oil in the place a little red pepper coulis For the red pepper coulis: 5 kg / 11 lb Thermomix and blend on full (approximately 60 g / 1/4 cup) in red peppers; 500 g / 1 lb 2 oz Ibérico chorizo (a speed for five minutes. Strain and the center and surround with the type of red sausage); 500 g / 1 lb 2 oz smoked cool as quickly as possible. Ibérico morcilla (blood sausage); 4 cloves Las parsley oil (again, approximately Pedroñeras purple garlic; 1 l / 4 1/4 cup 0.4º Soup 60 g / 1/4 cup). Sprinkle with a olive oil; cumin; 50 g / 4 tbsp mushroom confit Separate the egg whites from the little finely chopped garlic and oil; 50 g / 2 oz sugar; salt. yolks, placing the latter in a ham. Just before serving add three bread croutons, the fried ham, the For the parsley oil: 150 g / 5 1/2 oz parsley cocktail glass and setting to one chervil and the top of the chive. (stalk removed); 1 l / 4 1/4 cup 0.4º olive oil. side. Poach the egg whites. Heat the clarified chicken stock and Preparation time For the soup: 2 heads Las Pedroñeras flavor with a head of garlic purple garlic; 100 g / 3 1/2 oz Serrano ham; 60 minutes chopped in half. Add the gelatine 100 g / 3 1/2 oz round rustic bread; chervil; and allow to cool slightly. Recommended wine chives; 4 eggs; 350 g / 1 1/2 cup clarified Meanwhile, cut thin slices of rustic Vino Manuel de la Osa 2006 (DO chicken stock; 4 g / 0.14 oz isinglass (a neutral La Mancha), from Bodegas Parra gelatine); sunflower oil. bread and rub with half of the head of Las Pedroñeras purple garlic. Jiménez. This is an organic wine Other ingredients: chervil; chives. Keep the other half for later. Cut the with five varieties (Syrah, garlic-flavored bread into 1 cm x 1 Tempranillo, Cabernet Franc, Red pepper coulis cm / 0.4 in x 0.4 in squares and Merlot and Graciano), aged for 12 Liquidize the red peppers (with the place in a preheated oven (180ºC / months in French oak. The white pith removed), add the sugar 356ºF) for four minutes until powerful flavor of the garlic and and reduce to 1/5 of their original toasted. Slice the ham as finely as the fresh herb touches make the quantity. Slice the Ibérico chorizo, possible and fry in sunflower oil, dish the perfect match for this the smoked Ibérico morcilla and the then do the same with the half of wine, which has a strong character cloves of garlic, and confit in 0.4º the garlic set aside earlier. Finely and is brimming with personality.

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GARLIC

MOJETE with MANCHEGO cheese (Mojete Manchego con queso) GARLIC The purple rose of La Mancha

Spain is one of the top five per capita This is a modern, refreshing twist Mojete through a mineral water bath to producers of garlic in the world, and on the classic mojete manchego (a Combine all the ingredients in a remove any surplus alginate. To tomato- and red pepper-based Thermomix (ripe tomatoes, garlic, make the alginate bath, add 5 g / accounts for over two-thirds of all garlic dish), which we serve in the shallot, red peppers and cumin) 1/6 oz alginate to 1 l / 4 1/4 cup grown in Europe. The so-called stinking summer. I love the touch of flavor and strain, making what we call mineral water. added by the cumin, an essential “tomato water”. Pass the mixture rose is central to Spanish culinary customs To serve spice in my kitchen. through a muslin cloth and remove and traditions, and John Barlow travels to any foam. Add salt and sugar to Place the cheese moshi in the middle SERVES 4 taste, followed by a sprig of basil of the plate, and top with the garlic the plains of La Mancha in search of the For the mojete: 500 g /1 lb 2 oz ripe and two or three peppermint cheese, cocoa nibs, savory, thyme country’s stellar product, the purple garlic tomatoes; 1 clove garlic; 1 shallot; 20 g / 1 oz leaves. Leave to infuse, then strain and rosemary ﬂower. Just before red pepper; 2-3 peppermint leaves; 1 sprig and set to one side. serving add the garlic crouton and of Las Pedroñeras. basil; 2 g / 0.07 oz cumin; sugar; salt. pour the well-chilled mojete around For the cheese moshi: 200 g / 7 oz Cheese moshi the moshi on the plate. Manchego cream cheese; 20 ml / 1 heaping Mix the Manchego cream cheese Preparation time tbsp milk; sugar; salt; 5 g / 1/6 oz iota and milk in a blender, then season 30 minutes carrageenan (gelling agent); 5 g / 1/6 oz with salt and sugar. Add the iota alginate; 1 l / 4 1/4 cup mineral water. carrageenan and blend until the Recommended wine Other ingredients: extra virgin olive oil; 20 g / desired consistency is obtained (the Paso a Paso 2010 (Vino de la Tierra 1 oz garlic cheese from Las Pedroñeras mixture should not be too thick). de Castilla), from Bodegas Volver. (Cuenca); cocoa nibs; savory; thyme; rosemary Place the mixture in a squeeze This is a very refreshing Verdejo, ﬂowers; garlic croutons. bottle and create spheres in the and blends perfectly with the acidic alginate bath, then pass them undertones of the tomato.

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GARLIC

MOJETE with MANCHEGO cheese (Mojete Manchego con queso)

This is a modern, refreshing twist Mojete through a mineral water bath to on the classic mojete manchego (a Combine all the ingredients in a remove any surplus alginate. To tomato- and red pepper-based Thermomix (ripe tomatoes, garlic, make the alginate bath, add 5 g / dish), which we serve in the shallot, red peppers and cumin) 1/6 oz alginate to 1 l / 4 1/4 cup summer. I love the touch of flavor and strain, making what we call mineral water. added by the cumin, an essential “tomato water”. Pass the mixture To serve spice in my kitchen. through a muslin cloth and remove any foam. Add salt and sugar to Place the cheese moshi in the middle SERVES 4 taste, followed by a sprig of basil of the plate, and top with the garlic For the mojete: 500 g /1 lb 2 oz ripe and two or three peppermint cheese, cocoa nibs, savory, thyme tomatoes; 1 clove garlic; 1 shallot; 20 g / 1 oz leaves. Leave to infuse, then strain and rosemary ﬂower. Just before red pepper; 2-3 peppermint leaves; 1 sprig and set to one side. serving add the garlic crouton and basil; 2 g / 0.07 oz cumin; sugar; salt. pour the well-chilled mojete around For the cheese moshi: 200 g / 7 oz Cheese moshi the moshi on the plate. Manchego cream cheese; 20 ml / 1 heaping Mix the Manchego cream cheese Preparation time tbsp milk; sugar; salt; 5 g / 1/6 oz iota and milk in a blender, then season 30 minutes carrageenan (gelling agent); 5 g / 1/6 oz with salt and sugar. Add the iota alginate; 1 l / 4 1/4 cup mineral water. carrageenan and blend until the Recommended wine Other ingredients: extra virgin olive oil; 20 g / desired consistency is obtained (the Paso a Paso 2010 (Vino de la Tierra 1 oz garlic cheese from Las Pedroñeras mixture should not be too thick). de Castilla), from Bodegas Volver. (Cuenca); cocoa nibs; savory; thyme; rosemary Place the mixture in a squeeze This is a very refreshing Verdejo, ﬂowers; garlic croutons. bottle and create spheres in the and blends perfectly with the acidic alginate bath, then pass them undertones of the tomato.

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Tasting the Holidays All Year Long TURRÓN Temptations

Many would say that turrón (Spanish nougat) is the heart and soul of the Spanish Christmas season, a time when this beloved sweet magically appears on dining room tables all over the country. A centuries-old confection, typically made from honey, sugar and almonds and shaped into large rectangular tablets, turrón has done more than endure the test of time: it has flourished. Nonetheless, companies are striving to get Spaniards to see turrón as more than a Christmas sweet by promoting new varieties and innovative gastronomic applications. Meanwhile, the world has developed a taste for Spanish turrón, and companies are expanding into new markets that are happy to consume this delectable sweet all year long.

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Tasting the Holidays All Year Long TURRÓN Temptations

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town of Jijona (also called Xixona), During the 19th century, the quality the area responsible for around of this creamier and more refined 68% of all traditional turrón product was improved, thanks to produced and consumed in Spain, the advent of industrial cooking while accounting for 52 million techniques. In any case, its euros in annual sales. invention has been attributed to Jijona is located in Alicante several different factors. According TEXT province, about 25 km (15.5 mi) ADRIENNE SMITH/©ICEX to Sagrario Sirvent, Marketing from the city of Alicante and the Director at Almendra y Miel, “Jijona Mediterranean Sea. The town PHOTOS turrón was created to meet the climbs gently up a rocky FERNANDO MADARIAGA/©ICEX storage challenges presented by mountainside on the edge of a hard Alicante turrón in very dry or sweeping valley of green piney very humid climates.” It also gave forests. In the 1,020 m (3,346 ft) Master Chef who is thought to have elderly people and children a softer, Carrasqueta mountain pass instigated the consumption of more tooth-friendly option. Alexis overlooking the town, the summer turrón at Christmas, a trend that Verdú, of the PGI’s Regulatory air is potently scented with the wild eventually migrated to the rest of Council, adds that Jijona turrón thyme, laurel, lavender and the population where it evolved was created in response to the wild rosemary that cover the mountains into tradition. Around the 17th popularity of marzipan, a sweet and lend their delicate aromas to century, egg whites were made with sugar and ground raw the honey that is produced here in incorporated into the mixture, almonds. Jijona turrón is made large quantities. Another of the improving its consistency and using the Alicante turrón base of area’s bounties, almond groves, imparting the characteristic white cooked honey, sugar and egg carpet the valley below. Perhaps it’s color. The recipe was modified whites, to which ground almonds the abundance of these natural again in the 18th century, are added. The mixture is then ingredients that have given Jijona coinciding with the cultivation of cooled before being ground in a While the exact origins of turrón from the traditional rectangular The birthplace the nickname “the birthplace of sugarcane in the Americas. As sugar mill and refined until achieving the (Spanish nougat) are unknown, it tablets or round tortas to new turrón”, though I imagine it also became more available, turrón texture desired by the maestro was most likely introduced here by smaller portions. Given this of turrón has to do with the fact that these makers began to substitute it for turrónero (Turrón Master). Finally, the Moors, whose gastronomy confections have been made here it’s cooked again in a special variability, coming up with a The last time I brought up the part of the honey. Finally, Alicante included many sweets made with for over 500 years. spherical receptacle called a boixet, working definition for turrón seems subject of turrón with my Spanish turrón is typically covered with a almonds and honey. Nowadays, pretty daunting. There are, The authentic PGI Alicante and thin, white edible wafer called an which functions like a slowly in-laws, it launched a two-hour turrón might be made with a however, three specific kinds of Jijona turrón originated and are still oblea (now made from potato heating mortar and pestle. The family discussion that centered on variety of toasted nuts, such as turrón that have been designated exclusively produced in Jijona. The starch), which keeps the turrón finished turrón is placed in molds trying to remember grandfather’s almonds, peanuts, hazelnuts, pine with a Protected Geographical hard white Alicante turrón came from sticking together. and left to sit for a day or two to let favorite brand. It was hardly the nuts and walnuts; or incorporate Indication (PGI): Alicante, Jijona first and initially consisted of the excess almond oil seep out. things like candied fruit, chocolate, and Agramunt turrón. This first time we had sat around the cooked honey with whole toasted A soft change For both Alicante and Jijona caramelized yema (egg yolk), designation not only recognizes the dining room table surrounded by almonds. Its existence is noted in turrón, it’s interesting to see how marzipan, liquor and sesame seeds, quality of these products, but also stacks of open boxes of turrón, many 16th century documents, Jijona turrón is considered the little things have changed over the among others. Its texture can be their geographic, cultural and each of us championing our including a play by celebrated child of the Alicante version. Its centuries. This is apparent in the hard, soft, crunchy, crumbly or historic ties to the places they’re favorite. It was, however, the first Golden Age playwright, Lope de name was first used in the 17th antique photographs on display at creamy, and even the shapes and made and the ingredients used in time we had done it in August. I Vega, and a letter signed by King century in reference to a softer the regulatory council offices and sizes of certain formats are evolving their confection. had just returned from a visit to the Phillip II in 1595. It was this King’s turrón made with ground almonds. in the excellent Turrón Museum at

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Almendra y Miel, which was of peeled almonds were being opened the 1960s. These depict toasted to varying levels of golden entire families participating in brown. Indisputably, the best making turrón, which typically Primitivo Rovira e Hijos, which almonds are the famed Marcona took place in the winter months produces around 30,000 kg (88,184 variety that comes from this region. during the farming off-season. lb) a year in a historic workshop in These round, white almonds are Today, many of Jijona’s companies, the town center, to mid-sized and valued for their sweet and delicate both big and small, are still family- larger companies that inhabit the flavor, nutritional properties and run operations headed by handful of industrial parks on the level of almond oil. According to descendents of the original turrón outskirts of town. PGI regulations, there are two makers. What’s confusing is that, in My first stop was Mira y Llorens, categories for both products: Extra this town of approximately 7,500 a company founded by three sisters and Supreme. Supreme Alicante people, surnames such as Sirvent, in 1969 and better known for its must be at least 60% almonds, Mira, Garrigós and Monerris crop brand, El Artesano. I should while Supreme Jijona requires a up over and over again on the mention that, like everyone else in minimum of 64%. In general, a letterheads of prominent Jijona, Mira y Llorens make and sell company’s finest products might companies. Some are related and a range of other turrón and sweets use upwards of 67-70% Marcona some aren’t. In many ways the that fall outside of the PGI almonds. While these differences production processes also seem definition, although the traditional may sound subtle, after tasting relatively unchanged over the years. turrón are by far the most popular. dozens of turrón over the course of The tools and techniques found in As we toured the bustling factory, my “research”, I was amazed by the today’s factories are reminiscent of Marketing Manager Patricia Gómez range of distinctive flavors and those depicted in the exhibits. This explained how factors such as textures that these changes can is because the production of these cooking temperatures or the produce in a 500-year-old recipe. turrón is still artisanal, following amount of honey (10% minimum) recipes that have been handed can greatly affect a final product. Exporting tradition down through generations. Also important is the amount of Quality aside, there are other time that Jijona turrón is heated factors that have helped these Personalizing in the traditional boixet. At Pablo turrón reach the level of Garrigós Ibáñez, owner Pablo distribution and fame that they’ve the recipe Garrigós, who runs the company achieved, both in Spain and Despite the well-established recipes, with the help of his daughter, abroad. In the late 19th century, which must adhere to strict Henedina Garrigós, believes that, requirements established by the “a good product must be heated regulatory council, the slightest very slowly.” However, he goes on variation in ingredients or to explain that the most important Websites techniques can have an immense factor in determining a turrón’s impact on the quality, texture and quality is the quantity and type ·www.jijona.com of almonds it contains. This was PGI Jijona y Turrón de Alicante flavor of the final product. I had the Regulatory Council. (English, opportunity to see this first-hand apparent in the wonderfully French, Spanish) during my trip to Jijona. The fragrant toasting room at Mira ·www.igp-torrodagramunt.com approximately 20 companies range y Llorens, where large crates PGI Turrón de Agramunt from small operations like that of containing different sizes and types Regulatory Council. (Catalan)

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Tasting Jijona Elsewhere

While Alicante and Jijona turrón must be made in the town of Jijona, this fact didn’t deter intrepid Jijonencos from traveling to the far corners of Spain, often over a century ago, and setting up shop where they landed. In fact, some of the country’s most traditional turrón stores can be found in cities like Pamplona, Santander and Madrid, among others. Most of these charming establishments are run by the descendents of these early traveling salesmen. Like their grandparents and great-grandparents, they return to Jijona in the winter to make their artisanal turrón. Here is just a taste: Turrón Casa Mira, Madrid. Founded in 1842 by Luis Mira, little seems to have changed in this historic store over the years. The crest of the Spanish Royal Family, bestowed by Isabel II, looks down on traditional glass cases lined with rows of Alicante, Jijona, Coconut, and Cadíz (made with sweet potato) turrón. These and other versions are sliced to order. At Christmas, lines can take up to four hours. Tel.: (+34) 914 298 895 Turrón Monerris, Santander. Alfredo Mira Monerris inherited this business from his great-grandparents, who opened it in 1893. His passion for the history and traditions that surround these products is evident in their quality. He believes that, “Superior Jijona turrón has an exquisite texture and homogenous finish from the sugar being so intimately mingled with the other ingredients.” Now with two shops, in the summer they sell artisanal ice cream. www.monerris.com Turrón Primitivo Rovira e Hijos, Pamplona. Primitivo’s family has been making turrón in a small factory in the center of Jijona since 1850. Turn-of-the-century equipment and generations of experience help make his turrón unique in texture and flavor. The Pamplona shop opened in 2002 also sells artisanal ice cream. www.turronesprimitivo.com

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Tasting Jijona Elsewhere

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turrón makers left Jijona to sell between turrón and Christmas their wares in the rest of the doesn’t exist.” This results in a country, often directly from carts or whole new set of challenges, temporary stands set up on street including changing traditional corners, doorways or marketplaces. formats and trying to explain the Every person I spoke with here product to people who are emphasized the fact that people unfamiliar with it. Antonio from this town have always had a Torrents, Sales Director of Enrique deeply ingrained entrepreneurial Garrigós Monerris, a company that spirit and fortitude. Although many produces approximately 1,200 tons vendors focused on Spanish cities of turrón a year, says that some of like Barcelona and Madrid, others the most interesting markets are the traveled as far away as Europe, Middle East and India, where North Africa, South America, and people are already “big consumers particularly Cuba, where some of almonds and honey and intrepid Jijonencos even set up therefore understand the product.” factories. Today, exporting turrón In any case, it’s clear that opening from Jijona is still an important and the export market to new places growing part of the business. has made it possible to expand According to the regulatory sales and production long past the council, between 2009 and 2010, holiday season. the production of Jijona and Alicante turrón destined for export Beyond Jijona outside the European Union grew by 34.62%, with total exports of With such a long history in Spain, almost 600 metric tons. it’s natural that the turrón tradition Turrón exports used to be directed should extend to other corners of almost entirely at Spanish-speaking the country. The town of countries or Spaniards living Agramunt, in Lérida (Catalonia, abroad. According to Don Harris, northeast Spain), has its own expanding. Almendra y Miel the owner of La Tienda, a well- history of turrón that, according to currently exports to 41 countries known importer of Spanish oral tradition, can be traced back including destinations in Europe, products to the United States where for several hundred years. The he sells around 34,000 turrón Latin America, the United States, oldest written mentions of tablets a year, “Our customers are China and the Middle East. Mira y Agramunt turrón, or torró about a third Spaniards. Many Llorens exports 13% of its turrón to D’Agramunt as it is called in families came in the aftermath of many of the same markets. Pablo Catalan, appear in some letters the Spanish Civil War and have Garrigós, who has been exporting written in 1741 by one of the been here for generations. Around for 23 years, considers his town’s most noble families. These another third are people who have approach as somewhat atypical, letters describe the number of visited or lived in Spain... Latinos looking away from Spanish- people dedicated to each of the are also enthusiastic customers.” speaking countries and towards town’s trades and document the This market, however, is places like Kuwait where, “the link fact that turrón making was the

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most widely practiced occupation in Agramunt at the time. Innovating As opposed to other turrón, this the future hard confection must be made Whether talking about turrón from entirely by hand. The honey is Alicante, Jijona, Agramunt, or slowly cooked, either alone or anywhere else, their importance as combined with sugar, and then stiffly a holiday tradition is indisputable. beaten (also unique) egg whites are Almost all turrón consumption in added to the caramel colored mass, Spain takes place from mid- turning it white. Finally, toasted December to early January, and peeled hazelnuts (or occasionally many factories operate only during almonds) are added and stirred until the three or four months prior. perfectly distributed throughout the Although the expanding export mixture. The “dough” is scooped onto a floured table to be divided market is helping overcome the into the portions needed for the seasonal nature of this business, traditional round tablets that are companies still face the challenge of pressed between two wafers. convincing Spaniards that turrón is There are currently four companies delicious all year round. that make PGI Agramunt turrón. One way to accomplish this is by The largest of these is Turrónes sparking consumer interest through innovative approaches to products Vicens, a family operation that has genius when it comes to inventing and formats. Pablo Garrigós been making these traditional sweets new flavors of turrón, and truly, since 1775. They didn’t stop there, emphasizes the need for continual these artistic and delicious however. Today, the company innovation, from the packaging— produces around 80 different combinations couldn’t be the result which he revamps every ten varieties of the most innovative of anything less. years—to the product itself. An turrón I’ve ever seen. In addition to The company is on the verge of example of this is his collaboration endless versions of the classic opening a hands-on museum with the University Miguel Agramunt turrón, others are dipped dedicated to the history and Hernández in Elche to study the completely or partially in white, production of Agramunt turrón. enrichment of sugar-free Jijona milk or dark chocolate, or covered Additionally, it owns several turrón with an all-natural probiotic in pistachios, gold “leaf”, orange specialty boutiques, including one in and high fiber substance called slices, pineapple or fluffy coconut. inulin, which is extracted from wild Barcelona’s famed Boqueria Market. There are traditional-style turrón chicory roots. He’s also a big Exports, which account for 20% of with surprising centers of brownies, proponent of the nutritional cherries soaked in Kirsch, coffee sales, are primarily destined for the benefits of turrón as a natural, praline or macadamia nuts, and the European Union, followed by Miami, high-energy food that has been list goes on. Company owner, Ángel Brazil, Switzerland, India, the United eaten by climbers on the slopes of Velasco, is said to be a creative Arab Emirates and Latin America. Mounts Kilimanjaro and Everest.

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All Year Long S I C S

a new line called Imperial 1880 Alicante, who has been using Jijona and Crema 1880, hard and soft turrón in a variety of dishes for turrón that are mingled with exotic many years. Past examples of this flavors like saffron, salt, thyme, are his Terrine of foie gras and papaya and squash. (I’ve tried the turrón and Beef tenderloin with papaya. It’s delicious). Another Jijona turrón cream sauce. Varó is product is the Turrón Cream, which not the only chef in Alicante to is a liquid version of Jijona turrón incorporate this sweet into his that is recommended for cooking dishes. Last year, Almendra y Miel and baking. compiled a cookbook featuring Another burgeoning trend is stunning recipes from the area’s the creation of modern boutiques most innovative chefs. Contributions intended to entice people into eating include: Strange leaves, by Quique turrón year-round. In the Gourmet Dacosta, which calls for olives, ham Experience section of the Alicante fat, truffle and hazelnut oils, avocado Corte Inglés, I stopped by Concept, and turrón; Scallop with turrón, a “sweet and chic” store set up by eggplant and smoked saffron air, Henedina Garrigós. In addition by María José San Román of to turrón-flavored ice cream, a Monastrell Restaurant; and Shrimp traditional summer product, this New with guacamole, black olives York-style shop has a selection of and turrón milk, by Paco Morales delicious cupcakes, muffins and cakes of Hotel Ferrero. that creatively combine turrón with Despite the steadiness of the chocolate, fruit and other flavors. Spanish market, supported by TURRÓN Almendra y Miel recently opened a a population that is hopelessly in luxurious boutique in Valencia called love with this traditional product, Temptations Espacio 1880, where it sells premium and the growing appreciation for it 1880 products packaged in sleek in the rest of the world, Spanish black boxes and elegant gift turrón makers are not resting on assortments. Last spring, the store their laurels. Instead, they’re Many would say that turrón (Spanish nougat) is the heart and soul of hosted a party under the motto, seducing the public with innovative To thisthe end, Spanish he collaborated Christmas in a season,respect for pasta time traditions when is evident this belovedphotographs sweet of turrón magically makers. “No one can tell you when or how”, the Regulatory Board of Jijona and and tempting new products, course at the University of Alicante in its dedication to the industry’s On one side, a heavy wooden door featuring a unique way to enjoy Alicante Turrón hosted a cooking formats, shops and gastronomic in 2009,appears which addr onessed dinin the g roomfutur tablese. In the wor allds over of Sagrario the countrywelcomes. A peoplecenturies-old into the informative turrón year-round: in cocktails! show event that featured top Spanish experiences, enticing people here advantagesconfection, of turrón for typically athletes. madeSirvent, from “The honeyfuture will, sugardepend onand Tualmondsrrón Museum, and which, shaped in addition Made with the company’s liquid chefs Quique Dacosta (two Michelin and abroad to embrace this Spanish Innovationinto andlarge product rectangular tablets,our company’ turróns ability tohas grow do andne morto itse incr thanedible endur collectione ofthe antique turrón, the featured cocktails stars), Martín Berasategui (three national treasure 365 days a year. development is also vital at innovate, as well as ensure value photographs, tools and other historic included combinations like Chocolate Michelin stars), Jacob Torreblanca Almendratest y Miel.of time: This companyit has, flourished.and set ourselves Nonetheless, apart so that the companiesitems, offers ar visitorse striving the opportunity to Jijona turrón with turrón truffle foam and Paco Morales (one Michelin Adrienne Smith is a sommelier, chef whichget produced Spaniar a staggerdsing 1,592to seepublic turrón believes as in morand choosese than our a Christmasto view the working sw factoreety bybelow. and a touch of pineapple, and Red star), preparing dishes using turrón. and freelance writer. She has spent tons of turrón in 2010, is perhaps products.” This juxtaposition of old According to Sagrario, the company’s fruit fusion with white chocolate To emphasize the strong ties between the last decade eating and drinking betterpr knownomoting by its incrnewedibly varietiesand newand is appar innovativeent upon visiting gastronomicmost popular applications. product overall is turrón truffle foam and coconut. Spanish haute cuisine and turrón, her way through Spain. familiarMeanwhile, brand names: El the Lobo world and hasthe company’ developeds installations a tastein for AlicanteSpanish turrón. turrón, However, sheand believes Aside from these foodie boutiques, Enrique Garrigós Monerris created a 1880. Founded in 1725, it’s Jijona. The building’s entrance is a that market trends and consumer the industry is making an effort to special line of turrón called Maestro Visit our website, www.foodsfrom currentlycompanies run by the tenth are expandingwall ofinto glassnew that casts markets light into that the arintere happyest in trying to new consume things has made involve some of Spain’s most famous Turrónero, in collaboration with chef spain.com, in whose Products generationthis ofdelectable the sam family .sweet allglossy year moder long.n lobby, graced by a research and development in their in- chefs in promoting gastronomic Martín Berasategui. and Recipes section you’ll find Despite this deep-rooted heritage lavish crystal chandelier, boldly house laboratory a key part of their applications for turrón that go I also spoke with chef José Manuel comprehensive information and high production level, its patterned sofas and antique strategy. They have recently launched beyond the holidays. In May 2011, Varó of Maestral Restaurant in about Spanish products.

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a new line called Imperial 1880 Alicante, who has been using Jijona and Crema 1880, hard and soft turrón in a variety of dishes for turrón that are mingled with exotic many years. Past examples of this flavors like saffron, salt, thyme, are his Terrine of foie gras and papaya and squash. (I’ve tried the turrón and Beef tenderloin with papaya. It’s delicious). Another Jijona turrón cream sauce. Varó is product is the Turrón Cream, which not the only chef in Alicante to is a liquid version of Jijona turrón incorporate this sweet into his that is recommended for cooking dishes. Last year, Almendra y Miel and baking. compiled a cookbook featuring Another burgeoning trend is stunning recipes from the area’s the creation of modern boutiques most innovative chefs. Contributions intended to entice people into eating include: Strange leaves, by Quique turrón year-round. In the Gourmet Dacosta, which calls for olives, ham Experience section of the Alicante fat, truffle and hazelnut oils, avocado Corte Inglés, I stopped by Concept, and turrón; Scallop with turrón, a “sweet and chic” store set up by eggplant and smoked saffron air, Henedina Garrigós. In addition by María José San Román of to turrón-flavored ice cream, a Monastrell Restaurant; and Shrimp traditional summer product, this New with guacamole, black olives York-style shop has a selection of and turrón milk, by Paco Morales delicious cupcakes, muffins and cakes of Hotel Ferrero. that creatively combine turrón with Despite the steadiness of the chocolate, fruit and other flavors. Spanish market, supported by Almendra y Miel recently opened a a population that is hopelessly in luxurious boutique in Valencia called love with this traditional product, Espacio 1880, where it sells premium and the growing appreciation for it 1880 products packaged in sleek in the rest of the world, Spanish black boxes and elegant gift turrón makers are not resting on assortments. Last spring, the store their laurels. Instead, they’re hosted a party under the motto, seducing the public with innovative To this end, he collaborated in a respect for past traditions is evident photographs of turrón makers. “No one can tell you when or how”, the Regulatory Board of Jijona and and tempting new products, course at the University of Alicante in its dedication to the industry’s On one side, a heavy wooden door featuring a unique way to enjoy Alicante Turrón hosted a cooking formats, shops and gastronomic in 2009, which addressed the future. In the words of Sagrario welcomes people into the informative turrón year-round: in cocktails! show event that featured top Spanish experiences, enticing people here advantages of turrón for athletes. Sirvent, “The future will depend on Turrón Museum, which, in addition Made with the company’s liquid chefs Quique Dacosta (two Michelin and abroad to embrace this Spanish Innovation and product our company’s ability to grow and to its incredible collection of antique turrón, the featured cocktails stars), Martín Berasategui (three national treasure 365 days a year. development is also vital at innovate, as well as ensure value photographs, tools and other historic included combinations like Chocolate Michelin stars), Jacob Torreblanca Almendra y Miel. This company, and set ourselves apart so that the items, offers visitors the opportunity Jijona turrón with turrón truffle foam and Paco Morales (one Michelin Adrienne Smith is a sommelier, chef which produced a staggering 1,592 public believes in and chooses our to view the working factory below. and a touch of pineapple, and Red star), preparing dishes using turrón. and freelance writer. She has spent tons of turrón in 2010, is perhaps products.” This juxtaposition of old According to Sagrario, the company’s fruit fusion with white chocolate To emphasize the strong ties between the last decade eating and drinking better known by its incredibly and new is apparent upon visiting most popular product overall is turrón truffle foam and coconut. Spanish haute cuisine and turrón, her way through Spain. familiar brand names: El Lobo and the company’s installations in Alicante turrón. However, she believes Aside from these foodie boutiques, Enrique Garrigós Monerris created a 1880. Founded in 1725, it’s Jijona. The building’s entrance is a that market trends and consumer the industry is making an effort to special line of turrón called Maestro Visit our website, www.foodsfrom currently run by the tenth wall of glass that casts light into the interest in trying new things has made involve some of Spain’s most famous Turrónero, in collaboration with chef spain.com, in whose Products generation of the sam family. glossy modern lobby, graced by a research and development in their in- chefs in promoting gastronomic Martín Berasategui. and Recipes section you’ll find Despite this deep-rooted heritage lavish crystal chandelier, boldly house laboratory a key part of their applications for turrón that go I also spoke with chef José Manuel comprehensive information and high production level, its patterned sofas and antique strategy. They have recently launched beyond the holidays. In May 2011, Varó of Maestral Restaurant in about Spanish products.

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Translation The wines have been D Manuel Synonyme.net/©ICEX selected by Víctor B Moreno, the restaurant de la Osa* Photos, recipes A Toya Legido and wine manager at and Tomás Zarza/©ICEX the LasRejas restaurant. S I C S MOJETE with cheese TURRÓN MANCHEGO with cinnamon (Mojete Manchego con queso) ICE CREAM and lime (Helado de turrón con canela y lima)

This is a modern, refreshing twist Mojete through a mineral water bath to on the classic mojete manchego (a Combine all the ingredients in a remove any surplus alginate. To The tradition of turrón sellers on Turrón ice cream To serve tomato- and red pepper-based Thermomix (ripe tomatoes, garlic, make the alginate bath, add 5 g / the street during village festivals is Mix the cream and milk with the Add a little crumbled turrón to dish), which we serve in the shallot, red peppers and cumin) 1/6 oz alginate to 1 l / 4 1/4 cup something that always comes to turrón and heat until the turrón a bowl and place a quenelle of ice summer. I love the touch of flavor and strain, making what we call mineral water. mind when I work with this has melted, then set to one side cream on top. Pour the citrus soup added by the cumin, an essential “tomato water”. Pass the mixture To serve magnificent product. to cool. Add the procrema and mix into the bowl. Top the ice cream spice in my kitchen. through a muslin cloth and remove well. Refrigerate for 24 hours. with the cinnamon air. any foam. Add salt and sugar to Place the cheese moshi in the middle SERVES 4 taste, followed by a sprig of basil of the plate, and top with the garlic Citrus soup Preparation time SERVES 4 For the turrón ice cream: 600 g / 1 lb 5 oz For the mojete: 500 g /1 lb 2 oz ripe cheese, cocoa nibs, savory, thyme 40 minutes and two or three peppermint Jijona turrón; 800 g / 3 1/2 cup cream; 200 g Squeeze the lemons and limes tomatoes; 1 clove garlic; 1 shallot; 20 g / 1 oz and rosemary ﬂower. Just before leaves. Leave to infuse, then strain / 3/4 cups milk; 80 g / 3 oz procrema (ice and infuse with the mint in the Recommended wine red pepper; 2-3 peppermint leaves; 1 sprig and set to one side. serving add the garlic crouton and cream stabilizer). fridge. Add the alginate and strain. Finca Antigua Moscatel, basil; 2 g / 0.07 oz cumin; sugar; salt. pour the well-chilled mojete around For the citrus soup: 2 limes; 2 lemons; 15 g / Cinnamon air from Bodega Finca Antigua. For the cheese moshi: 200 g / 7 oz Cheese moshi the moshi on the plate. 1/2 oz sugar; 6 mint leaves; alginate. Infuse the liquids with the The creaminess of the ice cream, Manchego cream cheese; 20 ml / 1 heaping Mix the Manchego cream cheese Preparation time cinnamon, allow to cool, add countered by the acidic touch tbsp milk; sugar; salt; 5 g / 1/6 oz iota For the cinnamon air: 125 g / 1/2 cup TPT and milk in a blender, then season of the citrus soup, makes this carrageenan (gelling agent); 5 g / 1/6 oz 30 minutes syrup; 100 g / 1/2 cup water; 2 cinnamon the lecithin and emulsify. with salt and sugar. Add the iota sweet wine the perfect alginate; 1 l / 4 1/4 cup mineral water. Recommended wine sticks; lecithin. carrageenan and blend until the accompaniment for this dish. Other ingredients: extra virgin olive oil; 20 g / desired consistency is obtained (the Paso a Paso 2010 (Vino de la Tierra 1 oz garlic cheese from Las Pedroñeras mixture should not be too thick). de Castilla), from Bodegas Volver. (Cuenca); cocoa nibs; savory; thyme; rosemary Place the mixture in a squeeze This is a very refreshing Verdejo, ﬂowers; garlic croutons. bottle and create spheres in the and blends perfectly with the acidic *For a more in-depth look alginate bath, then pass them undertones of the tomato. at the chef, see Close-up

64 81 07_AF_FOODBASIC_TURRON.qxd 10/11/11 02:54 Página 80 F O O

TURRÓN with cinnamon ICE CREAM and lime (Helado de turrón con canela y lima)

The tradition of turrón sellers on Turrón ice cream To serve the street during village festivals is Mix the cream and milk with the Add a little crumbled turrón to something that always comes to turrón and heat until the turrón a bowl and place a quenelle of ice mind when I work with this has melted, then set to one side cream on top. Pour the citrus soup magnificent product. to cool. Add the procrema and mix into the bowl. Top the ice cream well. Refrigerate for 24 hours. with the cinnamon air. SERVES 4 Citrus soup Preparation time For the turrón ice cream: 600 g / 1 lb 5 oz 40 minutes Jijona turrón; 800 g / 3 1/2 cup cream; 200 g Squeeze the lemons and limes / 3/4 cups milk; 80 g / 3 oz procrema (ice and infuse with the mint in the Recommended wine cream stabilizer). fridge. Add the alginate and strain. Finca Antigua Moscatel, For the citrus soup: 2 limes; 2 lemons; 15 g / Cinnamon air from Bodega Finca Antigua. 1/2 oz sugar; 6 mint leaves; alginate. Infuse the liquids with the The creaminess of the ice cream, countered by the acidic touch For the cinnamon air: 125 g / 1/2 cup TPT cinnamon, allow to cool, add of the citrus soup, makes this syrup; 100 g / 1/2 cup water; 2 cinnamon the lecithin and emulsify. sticks; lecithin. sweet wine the perfect accompaniment for this dish.

*For a more in-depth look at the chef, see Close-up

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TURRÓN

TURRÓN WITH fennel and FOIE GRAS, seasonal herbs (Turrón con foie gras, hinojo y hierbas del momento)

The village and the surrounding Turrón praline the center of the praline mixture. area are covered in fennel, and its Crumble 50 g / 2 oz of turrón Cut a few slices of turrón, quarter pleasant perfume drifts into the and, using a spatula, mix the raspberries and place on the houses where, in this particular thoroughly with the sunflower plate. Drizzle with the balsamic recipe, it blends perfectly with the oil. Set to one side. vinegar reduction and top with foie gras and the turrón. the fennel sprouts and flowers. Fennel bath Preparation time SERVES 4 Mix the liquidized fennel and the 30 minutes 4 50 g / 2 oz pieces of micuit duck foie gras; kappa carrageenan in a saucepan 2 raspberries; balsamic vinegar reduction; and heat to 70ºC / 158ºF. Remove Recommended wine salt; pepper; fennel sprouts and ﬂowers. from the heat and cool to 50ºC / Cuvee Cecilia (DO Manchuela), 122ºF. Meanwhile, place the foie For the turrón praline: 100 g / 3 1/2 oz DO from Bodega Finca Sandoval gras on a wire rack, season with Jijona turrón; 10 g / 2 tsp sunﬂower oil. in the DO Manchuela. This sweet salt and pepper and coat each piece red wine from Víctor de la Serna, For the fennel bath: 150 ml / 2/3 cups of with a thin layer of the fennel liquidized fennel; 0.8 g / 0.03 g of kappa prepared using a late harvest mixture. Set to one side. carrageenan (gelatine). of Syrah and Muscatel grapes To serve and aged for five years, has notes Decorate the plate horizontally with of red fruits and walnuts, the turrón praline, and place the a perfect match for items such coated piece of micuit foie gras in as foie gras and turrón.

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TURRÓN

TURRÓN WITH fennel and FOIE GRAS, seasonal herbs (Turrón con foie gras, hinojo y hierbas del momento)

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Text Photos Translation Almudena Muyo/©ICEX Tomás Zarza and Hawys Pritchard/©ICEX Manuel Toya Legido/©ICEX de la Osa

Quintessentially QUIXOTIC Las Rejas, a Michelin-starred restaurant in Las Pedroñeras (Cuenca, central- eastern Spain), is regarded by many as a pilgrimage destination. The dishes prepared in Manuel de la Osa’s kitchen are tantamount to eloquent odes to this, his native area of Spain. Prime ingredients of top-most quality are treated with the respect they deserve—always recognizable, never disguised or distorted by textures or flavors not intrinsically their own. His talent for rediscovering and renovating the basic principles of La Mancha’s cuisine and giving it universal relevance has earned him his own personal niche in the food firmament. 09_AF_CHEF_84.qxd 1/11/11 18:35 Página 84

CLOSE-UP y er es del f I would d that he der , or war y evening. Los señor ected by Paul cumstances, y of how a film s friendly gaze e filming y well together e.” wer (entitled in particular . In the cir ew used to come to my e called Belmonte, and the be a long and influential . “They in Spanish, dir y day to all got on ver o hoeven in 1985) in a little place eer r ovided the nudge for er ac softens still further with nostalgia as he tells the stor pr needed to launch what has tur out car Flesh+Blood and so on, with local color ver much at the for Manuel de la Osa’ Ve near her whole cr mesón for dinner ever We and either they would or something come up with something dif ever and being self-taught, I thought I e ved ed esented vings migas , onion (an informal, (a farinaceous , and ser ving how they e ser oñeras having esented their mesón ecipes), gachas ead fried with r e dishes so that een pepper izo and pork belly) ea with little tables, egional cuisine, pr (a ratatouille-like mixtur estaurant). “I fitted out the , chor ned to Las Pedr taurants and obser ur pisto tomato, gr t s rustic r central ar arranged farming implements and other rural bits and pieces about the place by way of décor simple, r in earthenwar customers could shar of staple made of grass-pea flour and used in various r re hatched a scheme to transform the bar into a sort of (moistened br pepper re set their tables, pr dishes and designed their menus. He of and zucchini), t n. ced s for e . e . “When ly s om Las einfor No. 81), om La ear e r Spain e of nipping Spain om on fr ria ( ofessionally fr metour s uncles and oduce, so his ur childhood ds.” 73, 74, 75), wine… Go ience fr ent stance is based on a ent stance is based on om that quarter as, including a bar days in Cuenca wer esh pr No. 78), garlic fr Nos. memories ar eakfasts, doing a bit of all kinds of dishes for his Spain as (see The Purple Rose of ents, meanwhile, wer oñer om La Alcar n how things should smell s curr s accumulated experience: he s accumulated experience: es.” Manuel’ ing nastic skills e in constant contact with onomic leanings wer metour metour oñer ning exper , a unique and continuous ur ur gely dedicated to going to epar oducts such as saf ound the table, having a good Go Pedr La Mancha, page 48), cheeses— Manchego and others ( Go you lear and how to enjoy their flavors; it’ the sort of training that money can’ buy lear childhood onwar His student lar gastr still further fr you’r pr Mancha ( Dy Manuel’ lifetime’ has been cooking pr the over 30 years and, within context of the traditional family business, acquiring the many skills involved since the day he was bor He has a fund of memories, often to do with food and feeding people: “My father had several businesses in the village, Las Pedr My earliest between bar and kitchen, helping with the br cooking, being sent out shopping. And my father used to love pr pals: special occasions always involved a meal with lots of people ar time. He saw it as one of life’ pleasur grandpar dealers in fr honey fr s eally get oots, .” , of the cent n vantes, re e )—while ful dishes etur e the flavor oach. I spent om my r ist than ever oiled in the mor ifying, aerating ixote vantine cuisine’ e pur al appr ominence. t quite come up fairs.” Don Qu pr y Spanish author es, spher oach to cooking. For ks; I need to get back aditional to the cooking ession of knowing exactly e natur do is to use local La Mancha egion—‘Cer eater e simple but beautifully e tr ewor to e he wants to take his cuisine. -centur th this r oducts to make flavor the sort of food for which classic novel with textur and that sort of thing, developing one technique or another… I now know categorically that what I r want pr that ar executed, with occasional grace notes to contribute complexity Manuel de la Osa gives me the impr wher Even if he can’ with a “concept”, his head is teeming with ideas. “I’m embr details. Many of my dishes need tightening up to captur that ar of (named after Miguel de Cer 17 things. And I, for one, am starting things. And I, for one, alarmed by to feel saddened and this state of af the sadness His way of tackling to r and alarm has been to the essentials of Manchego cooking—not that he had ever lost sight of them, though “in the past I did stray rather far fr which I now think was a mistake. I have to be mor in my appr the fir to a mor over ten years experimenting personal, typical of La Mancha, and cosmopolitan all at the same time. Or to put it another way he is famous, but with flavor given even gr still accommodating evolution.” In short, then, his aim is a style of cuisine that is e e se t. , truly y we’r est in oducts, e no clues , mother Rejas to be. e ar esult of much e y ‘samey’: we sit e you go in Spain, eached a stage wher d and simple I want e along the way ve at Las ession that this cour war e I see of what goes on oach to food handed down to ything is ver ospective analysis on his par action is the end r and in the local traditional appr me by my grandmother and aunts… In the food world as a whole, we’ve r ever down to eat and ther as to what part of the countr in. Somewher local cuisine seems to have got lost; no matter wher you’ll end up eating the same get the impr of intr “The mor these days, the mor straightfor the food I ser I’m developing a deep inter my home patch and its pr 86 e na i , g s á P n into a those 19 : elations come ed. These ar 16 eadily and ently in the r . De la Osa’ ience goes back a eer oachable people to , and one can easily edefining his cuisine. I ound: he was bor prising qualities, given estaurant-owning family 22/11/11 , and he has absorbed and . He chats d r ought up in the business, e him as the life and soul of d estedly an oute. He is curr dly sur - oes of r ofessional exper 4.qx en r thr pr long way experimented with many influences and br acquiring the skills on which he has built his car har his backgr bar which, fuelled by a good dinner keep us at the table long after the food has been devour inter pictur those post-prandial conversations eminently appr whom interpersonal r naturally Manuel de la Osa is one of 86 8

HEF_

C _AF_ 09 87 , ent ned

CLOSE-UP y er es del f I would d that he der , or war y evening. Los señor ected by Paul cumstances, y of how a film s friendly gaze e filming y well together e.” wer (entitled in particular . In the cir ew used to come to my e called Belmonte, and the be a long and influential . “They in Spanish, dir y day to all got on ver o hoeven in 1985) in a little place eer r ovided the nudge for er ac softens still further with nostalgia as he tells the stor pr needed to launch what has tur out car Flesh+Blood and so on, with local color ver much at the for Manuel de la Osa’ Ve near her whole cr mesón for dinner ever We and either they would or something come up with something dif ever and being self-taught, I thought I e ved ed esented vings migas , onion (an informal, (a farinaceous , and ser ving how they e ser oñeras having esented their mesón ecipes), gachas ead fried with r e dishes so that een pepper izo and pork belly) ea with little tables, egional cuisine, pr (a ratatouille-like mixtur estaurant). “I fitted out the , chor ned to Las Pedr taurants and obser ur pisto tomato, gr t s rustic r central ar arranged farming implements and other rural bits and pieces about the place by way of décor simple, r in earthenwar customers could shar of staple made of grass-pea flour and used in various r re hatched a scheme to transform the bar into a sort of (moistened br pepper re set their tables, pr dishes and designed their menus. He of and zucchini), t n. ced s for e . e . “When ly s om Las einfor No. 81), om La ear e r Spain e of nipping Spain om on fr ria ( ofessionally fr metour s uncles and oduce, so his ur childhood ds.” 73, 74, 75), wine… Go ience fr ent stance is based on a ent stance is based on om that quarter as, including a bar days in Cuenca wer esh pr No. 78), garlic fr Nos. memories ar eakfasts, doing a bit of all kinds of dishes for his Spain as (see The Purple Rose of ents, meanwhile, wer oñer om La Alcar n how things should smell s curr s accumulated experience: he s accumulated experience: es.” Manuel’ ing nastic skills e in constant contact with onomic leanings wer metour metour oñer ning exper , a unique and continuous ur ur gely dedicated to going to epar oducts such as saf ound the table, having a good Go Pedr La Mancha, page 48), cheeses— Manchego and others ( Go you lear and how to enjoy their flavors; it’ the sort of training that money can’ buy lear childhood onwar His student lar gastr still further fr you’r pr Mancha ( Dy Manuel’ lifetime’ has been cooking pr the over 30 years and, within context of the traditional family business, acquiring the many skills involved since the day he was bor He has a fund of memories, often to do with food and feeding people: “My father had several businesses in the village, Las Pedr My earliest between bar and kitchen, helping with the br cooking, being sent out shopping. And my father used to love pr pals: special occasions always involved a meal with lots of people ar time. He saw it as one of life’ pleasur grandpar dealers in fr honey fr s eally get oots, .” , of the cent n vantes, re e )—while ful dishes etur e the flavor oach. I spent om my r ist than ever oiled in the mor ifying, aerating ixote vantine cuisine’ e pur al appr ominence. t quite come up fairs.” Don Qu pr y Spanish author es, spher oach to cooking. For ks; I need to get back aditional to the cooking ession of knowing exactly e natur do is to use local La Mancha egion—‘Cer eater e simple but beautifully e tr ewor to e he wants to take his cuisine. -centur th this r oducts to make flavor the sort of food for which classic novel with textur and that sort of thing, developing one technique or another… I now know categorically that what I r want pr that ar executed, with occasional grace notes to contribute complexity Manuel de la Osa gives me the impr wher Even if he can’ with a “concept”, his head is teeming with ideas. “I’m embr details. Many of my dishes need tightening up to captur that ar of (named after Miguel de Cer 17 things. And I, for one, am starting things. And I, for one, alarmed by to feel saddened and this state of af the sadness His way of tackling to r and alarm has been to the essentials of Manchego cooking—not that he had ever lost sight of them, though “in the past I did stray rather far fr which I now think was a mistake. I have to be mor in my appr the fir to a mor over ten years experimenting personal, typical of La Mancha, and cosmopolitan all at the same time. Or to put it another way he is famous, but with flavor given even gr still accommodating evolution.” In short, then, his aim is a style of cuisine that is e e se t. , truly y we’r est in oducts, e no clues , mother Rejas to be. e ar esult of much e y ‘samey’: we sit e you go in Spain, eached a stage wher d and simple I want e along the way ve at Las ession that this cour war e I see of what goes on oach to food handed down to ything is ver ospective analysis on his par action is the end r and in the local traditional appr me by my grandmother and aunts… In the food world as a whole, we’ve r ever down to eat and ther as to what part of the countr in. Somewher local cuisine seems to have got lost; no matter wher you’ll end up eating the same get the impr of intr “The mor these days, the mor straightfor the food I ser I’m developing a deep inter my home patch and its pr 86 e na i , g s á P n into a those 19 : elations come ed. These ar 16 eadily and ently in the r . De la Osa’ ience goes back a eer oachable people to , and one can easily edefining his cuisine. I ound: he was bor prising qualities, given estaurant-owning family 22/11/11 , and he has absorbed and . He chats d r ought up in the business, e him as the life and soul of d estedly an oute. He is curr dly sur - oes of r ofessional exper 4.qx Manuel de la Osa is one of eminently appr whom interpersonal r naturally inter pictur those post-prandial conversations which, fuelled by a good dinner keep us at the table long after the food has been devour har his backgr bar and br acquiring the skills on which he has built his car pr long way experimented with many influences en r thr 86 8 HEF_ C _AF_ 09 09_AF_CHEF_84.qxd 10/11/11 03:29 Página 88 C L O S E - U P

needed a young person with more vegetables) that I sample next. technical skills in the kitchen to Morethan likely, I should think. complement the traditional cuisine It is certainly conceptually on- that was my territory. ” In fact, he message, as Manuel likes those ended up hiring a young chef with who work with him to be. great technical experience—a Culinary arts Young chefs with innovative ideas tradition that he still upholds today. and a traditionally rooted repertoire As I marvel at the smooth subtlety of As he himself learned new of recipes sounds like an unlikely the mantequilla con ceniza de ajo (garlic techniques, he also pursued his mix, yet the resultant cuisine is ash butter) that I’ve just been served enthusiastic interest in the charged with nuance, surprise and as an appetizer, Manuel declares that intellectual and sensory aspects of sensory impact. The key to all this he enjoys his own company, and that gastronomy, visiting different is perhaps the huge capacity for one of his favorite things is the two- cultures and their restaurants, excitement that Manuel still retains, hour walk he takes every morning despite what many years in the analyzing their different attitudes to through the pine forests near his profession might have done to food, reading and collecting village. “It’s a time when one can deprive him of it. “I’m very easily relevant publications and attending think over what one’s been reading excited by small details, by smells countless conferences. and doing, a time for posing and tastes. I was in the patio at The knowledge gained in the process questions and ﬁnding answers, home a little while ago, when a found expression on the menu at Las because one’s relaxed. That’s quite smell of open fire and homemade Rejas down the years, contributing often when I reshape some of my sofrito (the gently fried onion, garlic to the evolution of a “signature dishes, or think up new ones. When and tomato mixture that is the basis cuisine” that was unfailingly I’m back in the kitchen, I try and of so many dishes) wafted by me, impeccable and delicious and translate what I’ve seen inside my and it struck me that these smells characterized by its skilful head into reality. Anything that are unrepeatable—there’s nothing juxtaposition of the quintessentially involves the latest techniques I leave else like them. That’s why I’m intent Manchego and the universal, present to the youngsters, and I’ve always on capturing them, getting at their in varying proportions from dish to got somebody beside me at the stove essence, to prevent their being lost.” dish. This highly personal approach who’sadept at that sort of thing. He works at it assiduously, tracking has earned him a Michelin star and That’s how I started off, and that’s down old recipe books and tapping many awards, Spain’s National how I’ll continue.” into folk knowledge by chatting Gastronomy Prize for Best Chef in My visit to Las Rejas coincides with with local shepherds, farmers and 1998 (awarded by the Academia the first few days in harness of its old ladies. What he wants to know Española de Gastronomía and the new head chef, Luís Contreras, is how their diet varied according to Cofradía de la Buena Mesa) being a former colleague of Grant Achazt at the time of year, what products they particularly prestigious one. His sopa the 3-Michelin-star Alinea ate, how they were cooked or de ajo morado de Las Pedroñeras (Las restaurant in Chicago. I wonder prepared… “Just think, the villages Pedroñeras purple garlic soup) whether he had a hand in the where my two grandmothers were showcases his style perhaps better palate-awakening queso manchego con born—Villarrobledo (Albacete, than any other dish. Whether eaten verduritas (Manchego cheese with central-southeast Spain) and Las cold (see page 62) or hot, this baby vegetables—an intensely Pedroñeras (Cuenca)—are less than timeless dish transcends the category flavored dish whose acidic edge is 30 km (18.6 mi) apart, yet there are of star recipe to qualify as an balanced, and whose overall effect considerable differences between unmissable gastronomic experience. is lightened, by the organic their culinary customs,” Manuel

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menu, they reflect the current season. By the time we reach the coffee stage, we are exchanging personal confidences, and he tells explains, to give me some idea of me proudly that both his sons are the scale of the task that he seems starting to show an interest in “this to have been engaged in all his life cooking business:” one is currently in some form or other, and is now work-shadowing him, and the tackling with a new intensity. other, a student at the moment, will be joining the family business when “Unless we learn about our he qualifies. Manuel’s wife, Flor, is traditions, and find out how things involved in it, too, having given up were done by our forefathers, we’ll her job teaching to help in the day- never produce contemporary to-day running of the restaurant. cooking of quality. We need that Well organized and perfectionist, history, that culture and that her touch is discernible down to tradition as our foundations,” he the smallest detail. She is the declares conclusively. perfect complement for Manuel, whose personality combines Produce elements of both Don Quixote These products are an inspiration to occasions always involved seafood his name), and in garlic-growing (he features. A life-sized wire sculpture (highly imaginative, idealistic, of La Mancha me and provide the basis of and/or fish—in other words, products supports the PGI Ajo Morado de Las of Don Quixote and a lithograph by undaunted by obstacles, a firm traditional cooking with their flavors that didn’t exist here in Las Pedroñeras). Meanwhile, there have Salvador Dalí greet people at the This indefatigable gastronomic believer in perfectibility) and his of scrubland, smoke and open fire.” Pedroñeras.” Nostalgia for those times been many invitations to set up in entrance to the dining rooms, which explorer is now focusing his down-to-earth henchman, Sancho And these are precisely the aromas I generates evocative dishes such as business in the wider world beyond are rather understated, with very attention on producing cuisine that Panza. A Man of La Mancha indeed. is at once more Manchego than ever inhale when the lechón con fritada, Ostra merengada (Oyster meringue) Las Pedroñeras—in some of the little by way of decorative detail, the manzana, membrillo y jugo (suckling Rape con tocino ibérico, setas, tripas European capitals, as a matter of fact unusual design and vivid blue and (if that were possible), out of the and Almudena Muyo worked for twelve years —but he insists that he feels more at red of the water glasses standing out ordinary and global in its appeal. pig with fritada—a Manchego de bacalao y crema de coliflor as a journalist specializing in ease amid the landscapes he loves, Using local products is a key tomato-based dish of fried onions, (Monkfish with ibérico pork belly, against their simplicity. In the new international trade before taking up her with their quality of light, wide principle, and La Mancha’s repertoire zuchini and peppers—apple, quince wild mushrooms, cod tripe and dining room, opposite the kitchen, current post as editorial coordinator of open spaces, charming people… is, as he points out, virtually and jus) is brought to the table. The cauliflower cream)—a dish whose the atmosphere is different: there are Spain Gourmetour. inexhaustible: “Few places can count meat is delicious, tender and silky, powerful flavors are counterbalanced His only adventure, if it qualifies as no rural references in this airy, such, is Ars Natura, his restaurant in on local supplies of such variety and and the whole dish a beautifully by the touch of sweetness contributed minimalist space, where the overall RESTAURANTE LAS REJAS Cuenca: the style of cooking matches quality as Castile-La Mancha. managed exercise in contrasts, with by the smooth cauliflower cream. impression is of wood, whiteness, C/ General Borrero s/n that of Las Rejas but is more “We were talking earlier about delicate sweetness juxtaposed with After cooking with Manchego and play of light. 16660 Las Pedroñeras (Cuenca) accessible, with prices that reflect the saffron, garlic, honey, cheese and richer, more intense sweetness and products for so many years, it occurs A delicious té de río (watermint tea) is Tel.: (+34) 967 161 089 current economic state of affairs. wine, which are the most obvious acidic, salty notes and, most to me to wonder whether Manuel has served during the pause before [email protected] ones, but there are plenty more: importantly, all orchestrated to ever been tempted to market dessert; I realize that, unusually for www.manueldelaosa.com game and its derivatives (Spain harmonize with the main ingredient. products under his own name. Fortress Las Rejas me, I have been noticing that the Gourmetour No. 79), eggplant from Not a false note is struck in the He assures me that he has Manuel de la Osa seems to have generously spaced tables are stylishly RESTAURANTE ARS NATURA Almagro (Spain Gourmetour No. 83), whole ensemble. collaborated with everyone who has made his restaurant, Las Rejas, into set with elegantly functional C/ Río Gritos, 5. 16004 Cuenca almonds from the Sierra del Segura Manuel tells me that that there have approached him about that sort of an extension of himself. Situated in crockery and cutlery. The dining Tel.: (+34) 969 219 512 (Albacete), olive oils, marzipan been times when he has been tempted thing: “I’ve developed, or helped with the oldest part of the village, it room staff move unobtrusively manolodelaosa@restauranearsnatura. from Toledo (Spain Gourmetour No. to expunge fish and seafood from his the development of, certain occupies the building that used to among them, friendly, efficient and com / www.manueldelaosa.com 82), La Mancha melons (Spain menu, but “I come from a family of foodstuffs, but I’m not really be his grandfather’s winery. Pieces of attentive to just the right degree. Gourmetour No. 61), cured ham, Pan great enjoyers, the kind sort of people commercially minded, and anyway equipment from this earlier When the desserts arrive, it Visit our website www.foodsfromspain.com, de Cruz bread from Ciudad Real that always drank good wines and, I haven’t got the time.” His most incarnation contribute a certain becomes clear that these, too, are in whose Chefs & Training section you´ll (central-southern Spain) and many years ago, brought in oysters by direct involvements are in the wine period dignity to a generically an area of interest for Manuel de la final comprehensive information about Manchego lamb and suckling pig. the basketful. Meals on special world (he owns a winery that bears Manchego décor with some modern Osa: like everything else on his Spanish chefs.

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PHOTOS GRANDES PAGOS DE ESPAÑA

LORE Among my background reading for guise of Grandes Pagos de Castilla, must be put in place. Not all Spain’s this report on the Grandes Pagos de founded by five estate winemakers Autonomous Communities, with of the Land España was a list of the association’s in Castile-La Mancha and one in whom responsibility for enforcing constituent wineries. As name Castile-Leon. Spain’s new wine laws the wine laws lies, have incorporated followed name, it dawned on me were being formulated at that time this classification level, which is Twenty-five estates and their 25 respective wineries all share a common that these were the makers of many and, although they would not be equivalent to designation of origin; purpose: to produce wines that express the combination of soils, climate and of my favorite wines. And when I say published until 2003, the creation in fact, only Castile-La Mancha and grape varieties that makes each of their terroirs unique. From their position at “favorite”, I don’t just mean wines of Vinos de Pago was already being Navarre have done so. that I like more than most, but ones contemplated. The Spanish word However, there are associates of the apex of the quality pyramid, these wines are claiming a place for Spain the very first taste of which I still pago is derived from the Latin pagus, Grandes Pagos de España (which among the great wines of the world. remember: the Mediterranean quality meaning “expanse of land”, in the changed its name in 2003 when new of Santa Rosa (Enrique Mendoza), sense of what today we would call members from other parts ofthe the astonishing complexity of Quincha an estate. According to the official country joined) in regions other than Corral (Mustiguillo), the elegance definition, vinos de pago are wines the two that allocate DO status to of Señorío de Arínzano, the mineral produced within the area covered certain estates. Carlos explains the edge of Alonso del Yerro, the amazing by a designation of origin and difference: “We don’t mind whether scent and floweriness of Art (Luna derived from particular parts of its our associates have DO status or not. Beberide), the crispness of Secastilla, territory that possess specific For us, it’s more important for them the delicacy of Gramona’s cavas, the qualities as regards soil and to have enjoyed international prestige vigor of San Román (Maurodos), the microclimate that endow wines made for over 5 years; to have won a place expressiveness of Finca Valpiedra… there with distinctive characteristics. on the wine lists of top-flight I can still recall my first impression For a wine to be categorized officially restaurants in countries that we of nearly all of them. And that’s as a Vino de Pago, there has to consider important markets; and to precisely the point of this association, be demonstrable evidence that the have been mentioned in articles in made up of a group of wineries that name of the estate and its wine have the press and in influential dining out are motivated by a profound respect attracted consistent recognition guides and the like,” going on to cite for their soils and grape varieties in the marketplace for five years or North America’s The Wine Advocate and, consequently, make wines that longer, and a comprehensive program and Spain’s Guia Peñin, Guía Repsol are unique and have what can only for monitoring grape-growing, and elmundovino.com as examples. be described as having “personality” winemaking, ageing and bottling The main prerequisite is, of course, —a quality sometimes sadly lacking in that the grapes come from a clearly international winegrowing circles. identified, freehold estate—with the Carlos Falcó, president of Grandes occasional exception of very specific Pagos de España, describes its purpose varieties grown under contract and with admirable clarity: “What we’re monitored by the winery—and that doing is playing at diversity: we have the winery itself must be located wines made by 25 bodegueros that either on the actual estate or within represent a broad range of climates, one km (0.6 mi) of it. In short, a pago soils, people and approaches to is a conjunction of four factors within winemaking. And it’s terrific.” one single estate: soil, climate, grape varieties and winemaker. “These four factors can produce an infinite What is a pago? number of variants. Given the same Grandes Pagos de España came into estate, the same grape varieties and being in the 1990s, initially in the the same climate, no two winemakers

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From left to right, top to bottom: Marqués de Griñón, Secastilla, Dehesa del N Gramona, Maurodos, Recaredo, Aalto, Carrizal, Mauro, Mustiguillo, Mas Doix, Alonso del Yerro, Pago de Vallegarcía, Finca Sandoval, Luna Beberide, E

Abadía Retuerta, Cérvoles Celler, Finca Calzadilla, Bodega del Jardín, Can Ràfols S

Valpiedra, Valdespino, Enrique Mendoza, dels Caus, Fillaboa, Señorío de Arínzano S W A T C H

potential. The expert hand of Isabel Salgado, who has been this winery’s oenologist for the last 13 years, and whose professional career has been devoted to Albariño, completes a pretty unbeatable formula. Isabel leaves all her wines on the lees, especially Finca Monte Alto, for which lees contact lasts for at least TURRÓN WITH 12 months: “It allows me to capitalize on Albariño’s potential—all of its fennel and aromatic eloquence—to the full; but what I aim for most of all in Finca seasonal herbs will make the same wine.” This reds. Given that Spain’s white wines Monte Alto is good structure in the FOIE GRAS, explains why the word “personality” can be regarded as something of mouth.” Fillaboa Finca Monte Alto crops up again and again in the an also-ran on some foreign markets, exhibits fruity aromas typical of this course of this interview. “A true wine- I’m intrigued by a Spanish white variety, which, with ageing, acquire (Turrón con foie gras, hinojo y hierbas del momento) lover likes every year to be that can hold its own among some of a candied fruit quality, complemented different—for some years to be great the best wines in the world. Fillaboa, by flowery, spicy aromas. Rich, silky and for that to show in the wine; a winery within DO Rías Baixas and long in the mouth, this is for the wine to reflect the terroir, (Galicia, northwest Spain), works definitely a wine to add to my list of exclusively with the local, highly The village and the surrounding Turrón praline the center of the praline mixture. the mineral quality of the soil, memorable first tastes. aromatic native variety, Albariño. The area are covered in fennel, and its Crumble 50 g / 2 oz of turrón Cut a few slices of turrón, quarter the direction in which its slopes estate fulfils all of one’s expectations pleasant perfume drifts into the the raspberries and place on the face… In other words, personality and, using a spatula, mix of a prototypical pago: 50 ha (124 houses where, in this particular plate. Drizzle with the balsamic and distinctiveness.” The area of land thoroughly with the sunflower acres) of vineyard with the winery Contact details recipe, it blends perfectly with the vinegar reduction and top with known as Pago de Vallegarcía, oil. Set to one side. right at its center. They make two foie gras and the turrón. the fennel sprouts and flowers. situated amid scrubland in Ciudad wines here: Fillaboa, a coupage Fennel bath Real province (La Mancha, central Preparation time representing the various named plots SERVES 4 Mix the liquidized fennel and the Spain) provides a good example. Associate wineries: Aalto, Abadía 30 minutes within the estate, and Fillaboa Finca Retuerta, Alonso del Yerro, Bodega 4 50 g / 2 oz pieces of micuit duck foie gras; kappa carrageenan in a saucepan It’s a unique plot, the scrubland Monte Alto, a vino de pago. Monte del Jardín, Calzadilla, Can Ràfols 2 raspberries; balsamic vinegar reduction; and heat to 70ºC / 158ºF. Remove Recommended wine having been shaped by erosion dels Caus, Cérvoles Celler, Dehesa Alto is a special plot: 5.6 ha (13.8 salt; pepper; fennel sprouts and ﬂowers. from the heat and cool to 50ºC / Cuvee Cecilia (DO Manchuela), effected by centuries of rainfall on del Carrizal, Enrique Mendoza, 122ºF. Meanwhile, place the foie acres) of vines planted 26 years ago Fillaboa, Finca Sandoval, Finca For the turrón praline: 100 g / 3 1/2 oz DO from Bodega Finca Sandoval the Montes de Toledo into what is Valpiedra, Gramona, Luna Beberide, gras on a wire rack, season with on a little eminence raised above the Jijona turrón; 10 g / 2 tsp sunﬂower oil. in the DO Manchuela. This sweet now a flat area located at an altitude Manuel Manzaneque, Marqués de salt and pepper and coat each piece rest of the estate. The soil, composed red wine from Víctor de la Serna, of nearly 900 m (2,953 ft). On this Griñón, Mas Doix, Mauro, Maurodos, For the fennel bath: 150 ml / 2/3 cups of with a thin layer of the fennel of sand and pebbles (far from usual Mustiguillo, Pago de Vallegarcía, liquidized fennel; 0.8 g / 0.03 g of kappa prepared using a late harvest soil, which is acidic and poor, this mixture. Set to one side. in this region), effectively retains the Recaredo, Secastilla, Señorío carrageenan (gelatine). of Syrah and Muscatel grapes winery has the vineyard from which moisture and warmth that the plants de Arínzano and Valdespino. To serve and aged for five years, has notes oenologist Adolfo del Horno need. Because it is southward facing, Grandes Pagos de España Decorate the plate horizontally with of red fruits and walnuts, produces an interesting and original the vines enjoy the benefit of Avenida de Nazaret, 4 Viognier, a spicy, flavor-packed 28009 Madrid the turrón praline, and place the a perfect match for items such sunshine from dawn to dusk. These Tel.: (+34) 915 745 534 coated piece of micuit foie gras in as foie gras and turrón. Syrah, and Hipperia, a forceful red two characteristics provide [email protected] with pronounced mineral features. conditions in which Albariño grapes www.grandespagos.com For the most part, the association is ripen perfectly, so that wine made The website contains contact details made up of wineries that specialize in from them benefits from their full for all members (English, Spanish).

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Abadía Retuerta, Cérvoles Celler, Finca Calzadilla, Bodega del Jardín, Can Ràfols S

Valpiedra, Valdespino, Enrique Mendoza, dels Caus, Fillaboa, Señorío de Arínzano S W A T C H

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Translation The wines have been N Manuel Synonyme.net/©ICEX selected by Víctor B E Moreno, the restaurant S Photos, recipes A de la Osa* and wine manager at

seized as opportunities for trying out new approaches. “In Montreal,” Carlos tells me, “we put on a tasting at which every drop of every brand of our wines that the monopoly had imported was sold. We made computers TURRÓN available both at the presentation and at the dinner that followed, so that with cinnamonpeople could place their orders there and then, as they tasted the wines. It and limewas a fantastic experience: people Promotion Spain also makes top-of-the-range admits that this very morning (our ICEIn the eyes CREAMcould safely say that over 50% of our drank our wines, liked them, and single estate wines—a fact that has interview coincides with the start of the trade is accounted for by exports, and bought them, just like that!” and image of the world that our joint target is to raise that to The synergistic benefits generated important image implications for 2011 harvest) he has been out with his (Helado de turrón con canela y lima) The concept of the pago is far from Spain’s wine sector as a whole. oenologist, Julio Mourelle, “picking As an association, Grandes Pagos 80%,” Carlos specifies. among the member bodegas represent new; indeed, this group of Spanish Admittedly, not all estates that would grapes from different ‘faces’ of the de España is not involved in selling At the various events organized by another of Grandes Pagos de España’s bodegueros took its inspiration from qualify for membership choose to vineyard, depending on their degree wines: each winery sells the association—guided tastings, fairs, strengths. There are times when it’s the success of models such as France’s belong to the association; and there of ripeness: harvesting grapes doesn’t independently, both at home and showrooms, and so on—wines from no picnic trying to coordinate family- all the member wineries are featured scale wineries with estates owned grands crus, a concept that has been are, of course, great Spanish wines get much more artisan than that!” abroad. “Grandes Pagos organizes regardless of whether the bodeguero by Spain’s big wine groups, such emulated in northern Italy and on the that have no connection with it at all. The range of grape varieties used is events,The tradition conducts of tastingsturrón sellersand manages on Turrón ice cream To serve Meanwhile, however, the member can be there or not, and whether asAdd Secastilla, a little crumbledof the González turrón Byass to banks of the Rhine in Germany. “Why,” diverse to say the least: Grandes Pagos imagethe str bueett, durbeyonding village that, each festivals winer isy Mix the cream and milk with the wineries continue to demonstrate their or not he or she already has an gra oubowlp. The and par placetners a meetquenelle at least of ice wonders Carlos “is a consumer in de España’s wines feature both native doessomething its ownthat work, always handles comes its ownto turrón and heat until the turrón unwavering belief in the importance importer in that particular market. twicecream a onyear top. to decidePour the which citrus markets soup China ready to pay 1,000 euros for Spanish (Albariño, Bobal, Cariñena, salesmind and when orga I nizeswork it withs ow nthis logistics. has melted, then set to one side of the pago of origin. A couple of years magnificent product. Beatriz serves as brand ambassador tointo concentrate the bowl. on Top and the what ice actionscream a bottle of a premier cru from Garnacha, Monastrell, Mencía, There have been a few small-scale to cool. Add the procrema and mix ago I wrote a report for this magazine andwell. is Refrigeratealways accompanied for 24 hours. by towith take, the pr cinnamonoposals having air. been Bordeaux?” He goes on to answer Tempranillo, Tinta de Toro) and experimental attempts at marketing as about the Bobal grape variety (Spain SERVES 4 a coterie of bodegueros who are submitted in advance by various himself: “Firstly, because Bordeaux international (Viognier, Cabernet a group, but for the moment we’re still Citrus soup Preparation time Gourmetour No. 77). By way of For the turrón ice cream: 600 g / 1 lb 5 oz almost as well-informed about other committees. I was particularly happens to have 300 years of history Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah) thinking about it,” explains Beatriz Squeeze the lemons and limes 40 minutes research, I paid a visit to one such Jijona turrón; 800 g / 3 1/2 cup cream; 200 g associates’ wines as they are about fascinated to hear Carlos remark behind it, but also because those wines grapes in both monovarietal wines Hernandez, manager of Grandes Pago and infuse with the mint in the estate, Mustiguillo, whose proprietor / 3/4 cups milk; 80 g / 3 oz procrema (ice their own. Guided tastings organized thatRecommended these include anwine oenologists’ and blends. “We also attach great fridge. Add the alginate and strain. are guaranteed to have been made and oenologist, Toni Sarrión, decream España. stabilizer That). being the case, the for invited audiences of professionals committee.Finca Antigua Given Moscatel, that its members by artisan methods, using grapes from importance to the soil and reflecting association stages promotional events succeeded in making me as For the citrus soup: 2 limes; 2 lemons; 15 g / arCinnamone often backed air by ICEX and staged arfreom some Bodega of the Finca biggest Antigua. names in the estate, with the result they are its properties. We use the variety for its wines in various parts of the enthusiastic about its old Bobal vines 1/2 oz sugar; 6 mint leaves; alginate. withInfuse the the help liquids of Wi neswith fr omthe Spain winemakingThe creaminess Spain, of wethe know ice cr whoeam, to never the same. Every year is different as he was. As we strolled around one that transmits them best. They are world as an example of the diversity staff in the destination country. thankcounter fored the by extraor the acidicdinar touchy quality of For the cinnamon air: 125 g / 1/2 cup TPT cinnamon, allow to cool, add from the one before.” Vinos de pago all varieties that have moved about that Spain has to offer. In 2011, it Usually, such events are presented of the citrus soup, makes this of the plots, he explained how, in syrup; 100 g / 1/2 cup water; 2 cinnamon the lecithin and emulsify. Grandes Pagos de España’s wines. from those internationally hailed historically, like Cabernet Sauvignon, organized guided tastings and the early stages, he would attach sticks; lecithin. by Carlos Falcó and Victor de la Serna sweet wine the perfect estates are selected for the wine lists of a monitoring label to each plant which we’ve had in Spain since 1860, presentations in the US, Canada, of Finca Sandoval; for many years Almudenaaccompaniment Martín Ruedafor thisspent dish. seven the world’s top restaurants, and this is to help him pinpoint the ideal stage in Vega Sicilia, no less. The important China, Norwayand Switzerland, and the latter was one of Spain’s foremost years in charge of promotional activity exactly the sort of target that Grandes of ripeness for harvesting. This close thing is for that variety to pass on the plans are in place for future visits to wine critics, before becoming a abroad for one of Spain’s winegrowing Pagos de España has in its sights. attention to detail seems to be another soil’s mineral quality, capturing the Brazil and Mexico. “We’re all heavily bodeguero himself with a reputation for DOs before joining Spain Gourmetour. Grandes Pagos was set up to characteristic common to all the character of the terroir, so that your in*Forvol ave mord ine in-depththe export lookworld. I don’t being, to quote Carlos, “a walking wine She has been its editorial coordinator for at the chef, see Close-up demonstrate and prove the point that members. Indeed, Carlos himself wine is different from your neighbor’s.” have an exact average, but I think I encyclopedia.” These occasions are the past four years.

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seized as opportunities for trying out new approaches. “In Montreal,” Carlos tells me, “we put on a tasting at which every drop of every brand of our wines that the monopoly had imported was sold. We made computers available both at the presentation and at the dinner that followed, so that people could place their orders there and then, as they tasted the wines. It was a fantastic experience: people Promotion Spain also makes top-of-the-range admits that this very morning (our In the eyes could safely say that over 50% of our drank our wines, liked them, and single estate wines—a fact that has interview coincides with the start of the trade is accounted for by exports, and bought them, just like that!” and image important image implications for 2011 harvest) he has been out with his of the world that our joint target is to raise that to The synergistic benefits generated The concept of the pago is far from Spain’s wine sector as a whole. oenologist, Julio Mourelle, “picking As an association, Grandes Pagos 80%,” Carlos specifies. among the member bodegas represent new; indeed, this group of Spanish Admittedly, not all estates that would grapes from different ‘faces’ of the de España is not involved in selling At the various events organized by another of Grandes Pagos de España’s bodegueros took its inspiration from qualify for membership choose to vineyard, depending on their degree wines: each winery sells the association—guided tastings, fairs, strengths. There are times when it’s the success of models such as France’s belong to the association; and there of ripeness: harvesting grapes doesn’t independently, both at home and showrooms, and so on—wines from no picnic trying to coordinate family- all the member wineries are featured scale wineries with estates owned grands crus, a concept that has been are, of course, great Spanish wines get much more artisan than that!” abroad. “Grandes Pagos organizes regardless of whether the bodeguero by Spain’s big wine groups, such emulated in northern Italy and on the that have no connection with it at all. The range of grape varieties used is events, conducts tastings and manages Meanwhile, however, the member can be there or not, and whether as Secastilla, of the González Byass banks of the Rhine in Germany. “Why,” diverse to say the least: Grandes Pagos image but, beyond that, each winery wineries continue to demonstrate their or not he or she already has an group. The partners meet at least wonders Carlos “is a consumer in de España’s wines feature both native does its own work, handles its own unwavering belief in the importance importer in that particular market. twice a year to decide which markets China ready to pay 1,000 euros for Spanish (Albariño, Bobal, Cariñena, sales and organizes its own logistics. of the pago of origin. A couple of years Beatriz serves as brand ambassador to concentrate on and what actions a bottle of a premier cru from Garnacha, Monastrell, Mencía, There have been a few small-scale ago I wrote a report for this magazine and is always accompanied by to take, proposals having been Bordeaux?” He goes on to answer Tempranillo, Tinta de Toro) and experimental attempts at marketing as about the Bobal grape variety (Spain a coterie of bodegueros who are submitted in advance by various himself: “Firstly, because Bordeaux international (Viognier, Cabernet a group, but for the moment we’re still Gourmetour No. 77). By way of almost as well-informed about other committees. I was particularly happens to have 300 years of history Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah) thinking about it,” explains Beatriz research, I paid a visit to one such associates’ wines as they are about fascinated to hear Carlos remark behind it, but also because those wines grapes in both monovarietal wines Hernandez, manager of Grandes Pago estate, Mustiguillo, whose proprietor their own. Guided tastings organized that these include an oenologists’ and blends. “We also attach great are guaranteed to have been made and oenologist, Toni Sarrión, de España. That being the case, the for invited audiences of professionals committee. Given that its members importance to the soil and reflecting by artisan methods, using grapes from succeeded in making me as association stages promotional events are often backed by ICEX and staged are some of the biggest names in the estate, with the result they are enthusiastic about its old Bobal vines its properties. We use the variety for its wines in various parts of the with the help of Wines from Spain winemaking Spain, we know who to never the same. Every year is different as he was. As we strolled around one that transmits them best. They are world as an example of the diversity staff in the destination country. thank for the extraordinary quality of from the one before.” Vinos de pago of the plots, he explained how, in all varieties that have moved about that Spain has to offer. In 2011, it Usually, such events are presented Grandes Pagos de España’s wines. from those internationally hailed the early stages, he would attach historically, like Cabernet Sauvignon, organized guided tastings and by Carlos Falcó and Victor de la Serna estates are selected for the wine lists of a monitoring label to each plant which we’ve had in Spain since 1860, presentations in the US, Canada, of Finca Sandoval; for many years Almudena Martín Rueda spent seven the world’s top restaurants, and this is to help him pinpoint the ideal stage in Vega Sicilia, no less. The important China, Norwayand Switzerland, and the latter was one of Spain’s foremost years in charge of promotional activity exactly the sort of target that Grandes of ripeness for harvesting. This close thing is for that variety to pass on the plans are in place for future visits to wine critics, before becoming a abroad for one of Spain’s winegrowing Pagos de España has in its sights. attention to detail seems to be another soil’s mineral quality, capturing the Brazil and Mexico. “We’re all heavily bodeguero himself with a reputation for DOs before joining Spain Gourmetour. Grandes Pagos was set up to characteristic common to all the character of the terroir, so that your involved in the export world. I don’t being, to quote Carlos, “a walking wine She has been its editorial coordinator for demonstrate and prove the point that members. Indeed, Carlos himself wine is different from your neighbor’s.” have an exact average, but I think I encyclopedia.” These occasions are the past four years.

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Text Photos PANAMA Rosa María González/©ICEX Orígenes facet among many of the exciting move on to little earthenware a concept thought up by Alejandro, gastro-destination that Panama dishes of callos a la madrileña who compiles a list featuring little- has now become. (Madrid-style tripe) or gambas al known wines alongside famous Like the synchronized double ajillo (prawns cooked in sizzling ones at fantastically good prices. act composed of owner Alejandro olive oil with chopped garlic and Indeed, one of the aims of the Pérez (Cuban born, of Galician chili). Before you know it you’re restaurant and tapas areas is to descent) and the astonishingly sampling tapas of paella, cured ham encourage customers to drink more young and talented chef Cecilia or salt-cod croquettes on a stick wine, and to provide them with Russo (Panamanian born, and and eaten like a lollipop, opportunities for discovering new with part of her training acquired a “hamburger” made of egg, ones. And all this to the in Spain before she joined the Manchego cheese, alioli and accompaniment of Cuban music, venture in 2009), Orígenes aims piquillo pepper, or any one of charming company and the taste to amalgamate the multicultural a long list of baguette sandwiches of Spain that is the cornerstone culinary traits latent in this part from the most conventional to of Creole cooking. of Central America and showcase the frankly sophisticated. Tuna with The Tapas & Piano Bar is a not-to- them in different gastronomic tapenade (spreadable olive paste) be-missed venue during a night out settings under the conceptual and tomato preserve, anyone? in Panama, and also something umbrella of traditional Spanish One of the most irresistible of a hub for the capital’s Spanish cooking combined with mastery attractions of Orígenes and its tapas contingent: the group gets bigger of modern techniques and subtly bar is its wine list, which offers and livelier as the hours slip nuanced flavors borrowed from attractive options by the glass, by, fuelled by familiar favorites. the Caribbean. bottles representing all the It opens early in the evening The tapas bar is one of the points winegrowing regions of Spain, and and closes at midnight, though it of Orígenes’ flavor triangle, its even some that are hard to get hold sometimes stays open as long as informal atmosphere evocative of in Spain itself. But my favorite customers are inclined to stay. of tascas (traditional, rather rustic, feature is the exclusive selection bars/pubs) in Spain. The luxury known as “La Bodega de Orígenes,” Orígenes Spanish Fusion element here is the menu in Bella Vista, Calle 58 Obarrio miniature devised by the famously Panama City, Republic of Panama dynamic Russo, and it is indeed www.origenespanama.com a parade of treats, some classics, others more imaginative, like Rosa María González is Spanish-born those gorgeous olives, and sizzling and raised in Puerto Rico, and writes chorizos al infierno (pimentón about food, wine and travel for sausages with piquillo peppers), www.viajesyvinos.com, and irresistible platters of Ibérico www.foodsfromspain.com and other The sun was setting over Panama the form of sparkling cavas, red bridging the gaps between sips with charcuterie that one just can’t publications in Latin America and City when I reached Orígenes and wines from Navarre, La Rioja, addictively delicious olives redolent stop eating. And everything is Europe, such as Magacín Lifestyle and was ushered in. Musicians were just perhaps even a taste of El Bierzo of rosemary, the Tapas & Piano Bar given extra zing by live music Wine Style Brazil. tuning up for the evening ahead. or an essence of Duero. It also of Orígenes Spanish Fusion came every weekend, and recourse I took my time before settling at seems to function as a frontier alive, warming to the Cuban rhythms to a cold beer or a favorite Visit our website, the tapas bar, having first been between the tapas areas and the and Spanish flavors that are a culinary Spanish wine at regular intervals. www.foodsfromspain.com, in whose Shop, drawn, as if by a magnet, towards more formal restaurant. motif of this restaurant—a Start with patatas bravas (chunks of Travel & Dine section you’ll find a a sort of glass-walled treasure trove Little by little, while I reveled in representative of the new generation fried potato with piquant tomato comprehensive list of Spanish restaurants, of wines, promising liquid bliss in a glass of one of my favorite Toros, of Spanish businesses that are just one sauce) or tortilla (Spanish omelet), tapas bars and shops all over the world.

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O Nuestra bodega Paella Barrafina. A Spanish Plancha. 150 Great An Introduction. Spanish Cooking Vinos ecológicos. Cookbook Recipes forSpanish- Basic Recipes from Guia Vinum I (Our Winery) by the by Alberto Herráiz. style Grilling Ibérica by Miguel Maestre. Nature 2011 Regulatory Council of DO English. Finally, an all- by Sam and Eddie Hart English. Miguel Maestre S La Mancha. English, you-need-to-know book and Nieves Barragán by Liliane Otal. English, by Nacho Manzano, is a top Spanish chef from (Organic Wines. Vinum Spanish. This is the fifth on one of Spain’s most Mohacho. English. French. The plancha, Cesáreo García, Neftalí Murcia (southeast Spain) Nature Guide 2011) by edition of an delicious exports: paella, who, after having worked S Barrafina is a highly a metal slab heated over Cumplido. English. Pablo Chamorro. Spanish. indispensable text for from a chef and author successful London-based a gas flame, is an Ibérica Food and Culture in some of the best It’s finally here: the first wine lovers. Nuestra bodega who has created a name tapas bar, and now indispensable tool in every is a wildly popular restaurants in the world guide to Spanish offers up-to-date detailed for himself in the City of and with several cooking E the people behind it have Spanish kitchen and— London venue offering organic/biodynamic wines information on the close Light as the genius behind published a book with unsurprisingly— Spanish food and more. ventures, restaurants and and cavas. It covers more to 200 wineries in the DO The Fogón Restaurant. its best-kept secrets. increasingly common Now in two locations, TV programs under his than 600 wines and cavas La Mancha. But this book His book is organized into The rave reviews call it belt, has now found the R elsewhere. With over 150 Canary Wharf and from more than 150 offers more than just wine sections, such as basic “Possibly the best Spanish recipes, Otal’s book is Marylebone, it is time to come out with wineries, with information facts. The DO recipes, paellas on the cookbook ever.” Four organized into sections: indubitably “at the very a new cookbook with his including: the wineries La Mancha’s Regulatory stove, on the barbeque, favorite Spanish recipes. P years going strong, sauces and marinades center of Spanish cuisine and companies that produce Council has also included sweet paellas and riceless Barrafina is still “packed, (the anchovy butter, rum and culture in the UK.” The text, with a focus on organic wines; an organic general information on paellas. The 108 recipes stylish and lively.” It’s marinade, and “dog” sauce The chefs behind Ibérica “fresh ingredients, big wine country catalog; the grapes and the types include Extra-fine paella a team of champions: sound interesting), first have published a small flavors and artistic flair,” definitions and explanations of wines typical to this rice “a banda” without is organized into the M the brothers and Basque course and vegetables cookbook featuring some about this type of wine, sans region, as well as advice the “banda”, Sweet paella chef Nieves Barragán (try the parmesan zucchini of their most popular following sections: My the technical jargon; organic

I for tasting and preserving rice with apples and Mohacho are wowing or the chorizo toast), fish recipes, reflecting the Family (where he shares agriculture and organic wines. It also provides camembert, and Paella British palates with recipes and seafood (the garlic policy at Ibérica: complex tales about his relatives), and biodynamic vineyards; extensive coverage of rice with crayfish, like spicy Padron peppers, prawns and cilantro clams dishes are not the name of Meat (try the Roasted the role of organic wine tourist and cultural sites. lemongrass and asparagus. grilled razor clams, paella, sound tasty), meat (rib the game, but, rather, the lamb with pine nuts and in sustainable development; The wineries are organized It also covers info on the salt cod fritters, Spanish eye with spicy marinade focus here is traditional rosemary), Rice (Potato the current domestic G by area and each has its sofrito (an aromatic omelet, cumin-rubbed or lamb kidney, anyone?), dishes prepared using and fish broth with and international market own page with a photo, mixture of onions, garlic pork with quince sauce, poultry (how about that time-honored recipes. cuttlefish rice), Fish situation for this product; contact details, and a and tomato), sauces to rabbit stew and roast chicken churrasco or The book is organized (Grilled lobster with and scientific references,

N range of other be served with paella, suckling pig. This the spatchcocked capon), into cold tapas (such as Russian salad), Vegetables studies and tests which information, including the and many other insights. cookbook pays homage and dessert (tuck into the Fresh marinated sardines (Spicy artichokes and evidence the healthy I size of the vineyards, Rounding off the text, to their restaurant, apple brioche or the fruit with tomato gazpacho mushrooms, serve it up), properties of this product. average grape production, Herráiz includes a glossary with a selection of more skewers). With simple to and crispy Ibérico ham), and Mostly Chocolate While basic misconceptions

T grape varieties, exports, of paella words and a than 120 recipes. The follow instructions and hot tapas (Fried squid (Cinnamon and chocolate exist about this segment, bottling capacity, and directory of where in the combination of step-by- excellent photography, with alioli and lemon, torte with bananas and the truth is that these wines awards. (Regulatory Council world to buy Spanish food step instructions with this book will help you for example), and main sherry compote), as well are not more expensive S of DO La Mancha, products, including the excellent photography cook up something your courses (Glazed pork belly as an index of recipes. and “they express the terroir www.lamanchawines.com). US, the UK, Australia and makes this a great book taste buds will thank you with Málaga Virgen sweet (New Holland Publishers Pty even more, with all the Canada. (Phaidon Press to have on your kitchen for. (Éditions Sud Ouest, wine and sautéed new Ltd, www.newholland.com.au). minerality and health A Limited, www.phaidon.com). shelf. (Penguin Books Ltd, www.editions-sudouest.com). potatoes). properties of wine.” www.penguin.com). (Ibérica Food and Culture, (Ecomundis Editorial, SL,

L www.ibericalondon.co.uk). www.ecomundis.com).

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PREMIUM QUALITY SPANISH CHEESE N -THE GRANDEE OF SPAIN- I D Aceites Borges Pont, S.A. Grupo Gourmets Vinos DO Navarra Tel.: (+34) 973 501 212 Tel.: (+34) 915 489 651 Tel.: (+34) 948 741 812

A [email protected] [email protected] [email protected] www.borges.es www.gourmets.net www.navarrawine.com “GRAND SELECTION 2010 CONTEST”: MAESE MIGUEL D.O. 3 MONTHS: Page: Inside front cover Page: 6 Page: 103 GOLD MEDAL AWARDED Award winning 12 month matured Manchego D.O. from La Mancha October 2008 Ángel Camacho Grupo Mahou – Wines from Spain Awarded first prize Manchego cheese at the annual Manchego cheesemakers guild contest. Alimentación, S.A. San Miguel www.winesfromspain.es (Fragata) Tel.: (+34) 915 269 100 Page: 4 Tel.: (+34) 955 854 700 info@mahou- [email protected] sanmiguel.info www.acamacho.com www.mahou- Page: 107 sanmiguel.com Page: 7 Araex – Rioja Alavesa, S.L. – Spanish Fine Wine, S.L. Industrial Quesera Tel.: (+34) 945 150 589 Cuquerella I. QUESERA CUQUERELLA, S.L. - QUESOS ROCINANTE [email protected] Tel.: (+34) 926 266 410 Malagón (C. Real) - Spain - Tel.: +34 926 266 410 - Fax: +34 926 266 413 www.araex.com [email protected] [email protected] - www.rocinante.es Page: Back cover www.rocinante.es TARTESANA, S.L Page: 102 “Tarquessia de La Mancha” Bodegas Fariña Ctra. de Toledo, s/n Tel.: (+34) 980 577 673 Loreto Speciality 13420 Malagón (C.Real) Spain [email protected] Foods, S.L. Tel: +(34) 926 266 410 www.bodegasfarina.com Tel.: (+34) 954 113 825 Fax: +(34) 926 266 413 Page: 104 [email protected] [email protected] www.cenlo.com Page: 5 F. J. Sánchez R O R P

Sucesores, S.A. O P O D O A

Rafael Salgado, S.A. D E Tel.: (+34) 950 364 038 A U E Q U E

[email protected] Tel.: (+34) 916 667 875 Q H E C H E [email protected] C T www.fjsanchez.com E N T E I N L

Page: Inside back cover www.rafaelsalgado.com E I C L E C D

Page: 105 E F D D F P D P

“THE CROWN JEWEL”

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PREMIUM QUALITY SPANISH CHEESE N -THE GRANDEE OF SPAIN- I D Aceites Borges Pont, S.A. Grupo Gourmets Vinos DO Navarra Tel.: (+34) 973 501 212 Tel.: (+34) 915 489 651 Tel.: (+34) 948 741 812

Sucesores, S.A. O P O D O A

Rafael Salgado, S.A. D E Tel.: (+34) 950 364 038 A U E Q U E [email protected] Tel.: (+34) 916 667 875 Q H E C H E [email protected] C T www.fjsanchez.com E N T E I N L

Page: Inside back cover www.rafaelsalgado.com E I C L E C D

Page: 105 E F D D F P D P

“THE CROWN JEWEL”

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San Isidro El Santo, Fruytur, S.A. Tu rrones José E S. Coop C-LM Tel.: (+34) 965 612 405 Garrigós, S.A. Tel.: (+34) 967 160 111 [email protected] Tel.: (+34) 965 610 625 [email protected] www.fruytur.com exporta@turronesjgarrigos. Food www.sanisidroelsanto.com com Industrias Jijonencas, S.A. www.turronesjgarrigos.com Products SAT Nº 9989 Peregrín Tel.: (+34) 965 611 025 Tel.: (+34) 950 464 111 [email protected] Tu rrones Picó, S.A. This is a selection of [email protected] www.lajijonenca.com Tel.: (+34) 965 610 040 exporters supplied by the www.peregrin.es [email protected] individual sources. Jijona, S.A. www.turronpico.com Source: Asociación IGP Ajo Tel.: (+34) 965 610 081 Morado de Las Pedroñeras [email protected] Tu rrones y Helados Tel.: (+34) 967 139 333 www.elabuelo.es Onza de Oro, S.A. Garlic [email protected] Tel.: (+34) 965 612 351 PGI Ajo Morado www.igpajomorado.es Mira y Llorens, S.A. www.onzaoro.com de Las Pedroñeras Tel.: (+34) 965 610 275 [email protected] Source: Consejo Regulador Ajos La Veguilla, S.L. Turrón www.elartesano.es IGP Jijona y Turrón de Tel.: (+34) 967 160 351 PGI Jijona y Turrón de Alicante [email protected] Alicante Sanchis Mira, S.A. Tel.: (+34) 965 612 446 www.veguilla.com Tel.: (+34) 965 610 400 consejoregulador@jijona. Almendra y Miel, S.A. [email protected] com Bhio Carrión, S.L. Tel.: (+34) 965 610 225 www.sanchis-mira.com www.jijona.com Tel.: (+34) 967 161 159 [email protected] [email protected] www.ellobo.com Tu rrones Coloma, S.A. PGI Turrón de Agramunt www.bhiocarrion.com www.turron1880.com Tel.: (+34) 965 610 267 coloma@turronescoloma. Torrons Vicens Coopaman, S. Coop. C-LM Enrique Garrigós com Tel.: (+34) 973 390 607 Tel.: (+34) 967 160 536 Monerris, S.A. www.turron25.com [email protected] [email protected] Tel.: (+34) 965 611 461 www.vicens.com www.coopaman.com [email protected] Tu rrones El Romero, S.A. www.egarrigos.com Tel.: (+34) 965 610 272 Source: ICEX Regaragrícola, S.L. dcomercial@ Tel.: (+34) 967 161 265 turroneselromero.com [email protected] www.turroneselromero. www.regaragricola.com com

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P Tel.: (33) 31 22 10 Tel.: (20) 7467 23 30 copenhague@comercio. UNITED KINGDOM [email protected] mityc.es Tel.: (20) 7317 20 10 S UNITED STATES [email protected] HONG KONG Tel.: (212) 661 49 59 UNITED STATES Tel.: 25 21 74 33 nuevayork@comercio. Tel.: (312) 642 19 92 hongkong@comercio. mityc.es mityc.es [email protected] For tourist information, IRELAND Tel.: (323) 658 71 95 contact your nearest Tel.: (1) 661 63 13 [email protected] SPANISH TOURIST [email protected] OFFICE: Tel.: (305) 358 19 92 ITALY [email protected] CANADA Tel.: (02) 78 14 00 Tels.: (416) 961 31 31/40 79 [email protected] Tel.: (212) 265 88 22 [email protected] [email protected] JAPAN CHINA Tel.: (3) 55 75 04 31 CENTRAL BOOKING Tels.: (10) 65 32 93 06/07 [email protected] OFFICE [email protected] Tel.: (+34) 902 547 979 MALAYSIA [email protected] DENMARK Tel.: (3) 2148 73 00 www.parador.es Tel.: 33 18 66 30 kualalumpur@ [email protected] comercio.mityc.es ITALY Tel.: (02) 72 00 46 17 [email protected]

Tel.: (06) 678 31 06 [email protected]

108 JANUARY-APRIL 2012 SPAIN GOURMETOUR