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Brief on Handloom Sector Brief on Handloom Sector “Our problem being to form the future, we can only form it on the materials of the past; we must use our heredity, instead of denying it.” - T.S. Eliot 1.1 Evolution of Handloom Sector in India India(s 1ompany trade accounted for clothing India has a rich tradition of handloom weaving exports. 2umming up this robust trade, 3aniel since time immemorial with the earliest 3efoe stated that 4everything that used to be evidences going back to the Indus Valley made of wool or silk, relating to either the civilisation. dress of women or the furniture of houses, was Various written treatise pertaining to the supplied by the India trade5. Rigveda, Ramayana, Mahabharata, Thalia (by 6ith the advent of the Industrial Revolution, reek historian !erodotus" and #autilya have the ,ritish began executing a protectionist mentioned not only spinning and weaving but policy in order to restrict import of handwoven also the high quality of silk and cotton. cloth from India (to ,ritain" while dumping Export of handloom products, as early as the their machine made clothes, in India, from 'fteenth century was reported, followed by 7ancashire. Towards the end of the nineteenth Vasco da Gama(s visit to India thereby opening century, the cotton textile sector suff ered of trade routes for Europe. )urther, *ean+ from a range of challenges from economic ,aptiste Tavernier(s memoirs from the recessions to natural calamities. In fact, for the seventeenth century mention ,urhanpur in period ranging end of the nineteenth century Madhya -radesh as hub for international trade and the 'rst three decades of the twentieth with exports to Egypt, -oland, Russia and the century, there was an ongoing tussle between ulf region. )urther, it is said that by the end dumping of ,ritish mill products versus Indian of the seventeenth century, 8/0 of The East hand woven textiles with the rising call of 2wadeshi goods. 3espite such adversity, Indian artisans have stood the test of time and have kept this great craft alive. 8ver the centuries, handlooms have come to be associated with excellence in India(s artistry in fabrics. )abrics and designs were in9uenced by geographic, religious and social customs of a region. 3iff erent parts of India have produced distinct styles : muslin of 1handeri, Varanasi brocades, Ra;asthan and 8rissa have given tie and die products, -atola sarees from -atan, himroos of !yderabad, phulkari and #hes from -un;ab, 3accai and *amdani from ,engal, traditional designs from <ssam and Manipur like the -henek and Tongam. Indian handloom designs and weaves have been famous world over and it is important to ensure sustenance of our cultural heritage. 1.2 Women’s empowerment through financial independence Indian handloom sector is ancient and has served the economy well in terms of employment. The sector is very important from the point of view of its si=e and employment potential. The relevance of the handloom sector in the agrarian economy is massive because of its linkages with crucial and sensitive sectors like agriculture. It uses agricultural products as raw materials and, therefore, provides an ever+ready market for agricultural produce. Therefore, in an economy where ma;ority of people still rely on agrarian sector for their livelihood, the signi'cance of handloom is well understood. 2econdly, it is a sector that directly addresses women(s empowerment. <s per the present census, the sector engages over >/ lakhs 6ith a view to raising funds for the sector and female weavers and allied workers. The organising weavers( cooperatives, -arliament handloom sector is largely household+based, had passed the #hadi and 8ther !andloom carried out with labour contributed by the Industries 3evelopment <ct in ACB/. To entire family. Therefore, the engagement of a facilitate marketing of fabrics made in the large number of women (over ?@0 of all handloom cooperatives, a national level ape& weavers and allied workers are female" in any body called the <ll India !andloom )abrics capacity in this sector has ensured direct Marketing 1ooperative 2ociety was set up in remunerations for them, thus empowering ACBB. The 6eavers 2ervice 1entre and the them through 'nancial independence and Indian Institute of !andloom Technology were improved self-worth both within and outside of set up to provide infrastructure back up in the their homes. vital areas of applied research, service and training. 1.3 e! milestones for the sector The !andloom and !andicrafts %xport <ugust AB, ACD? marked a turning point for the 1orporation of India 7td (!!%1" was set up in handloom weavers of India. Mahatma Gandhi(s ACB. to promote export of handlooms. In AC?E, use of 1harkha, the spinning wheel, as a the overnment appointed a high powered symbol of national regeneration and the study team and on its recommendations the subsequent focus on the handloom weavers 8ffi ce of 3evelopment 1ommissioner for during the freedom movement was largely !andlooms was created at the 1entre to responsible for the breakthrough. ensure a scienti'c growth of the handloom sector. 2ince then the 8ffi ce of the The dawn of Independence provided an 3evelopment 1ommissioner for !andlooms opportunity to accord priority treatment to the has been implementing various developmental handloom sector. <t the time of Independence, and welfare schemes for the bene't of the there were about three million handlooms in handloom weavers. To ensure a steady supply India, largely of poor quality because of inferior of raw materials such as yarn, dyes and raw material and ill+organised marketing chemicals to the handloom sector, the Fational infrastructure. The situation worsened in ACB> !andloom 3evelopment 1orporation (F!31" due to a slump in the textile market. The <ll+ was set up in AC./. India Handloom Board was reconstituted seven years after its dissolution in ACDB, to advise 1." #ajor interventions %! &overnment of the overnment and propose schemes for the India ffi development and survival of handlooms. Ministry of Textiles through the 8 ce of the 3evelopment 1ommissioner for !andlooms is working for the sustainable development of the handloom sector by implementing various developmental, promotional, and creation of 1ommon )acility 1entres, etc. with welfare schemes. The principal ob;ectives oI assistance to the tune of Rs.> crores per of these schemes is to promote production cluster. 6hile funding for most components and marketing of high quality and high value is A@@0, there is additional funding to the tune handloom products and thereby increase the of Rs.B@ lakhs available for setting up one 3ye earnings of weavers and other workers !ouse in a district to ensure availability of associated with this sector. 2kill up+gradation, $uality dyed yarn for weavers. The cluster infusion of new and contemporary designs, pro;ects are taken up upon recommendations product diversi'cation, technology upgrades, from the 2tate Government. improved access to subsidised raw materials, 1.4.2 Skill up-gradation access to low interest credit, common infrastructure development, brand building, 2kill up+gradation training and exposure is marketing assistance including promotion of e+ given to weavers and allied workers for 1ommerce platforms and linking handloom learning new weaving techniques, adaption of with high+end fashion, are but some of the new technology, development of new designs ma;or interventions initiated by the present and colours, learning about new types of eco+ overnment. The following sections provides friendly dyes and dyeing practices, exposure to a more in+depth look at some of the 9agship basic accounting and management practices, initiatives that have created signi'cant impact familiarisation with e+commerce, etc. on the lives of those associated with the 1.4.3 Hatkharga Samvardhan production of handloom cloth. Sahayata (looms and accessories) 1.4.1 Block level cluster !22 aims to improve the fabric $uality and improve productivity through adoption of The block level cluster scheme aims at upgraded loomsG;ac$uard/dobby, etc. Hnder integrated and holistic development of this scheme, C@0 of the cost of looms and identi'ed handloom pockets through various accessories is borne by overnment of India interventions like skill up+gradation, but the implementation is done with the full !athkharga 2amvardhan 2ahayata (!22", involvement of respective State Governments. construction of individual work sheds, design and product development, 1.4.4 Work shed designed distant education courses relevant for The construction of individual work sheds the handloom sector. The ministry provides envisages providing a working space for the ?B0 subsidy on the course fees for S1, ST, B-7 entire weaver family close to their home. The and female weavers for handloom weaver unit cost for these sheds are Rs.A.> lakhs and families. marginalised households and female weavers 1.4.9 Bunkar Mitra helpline are eligible for 1@@0 financial assistance. 4(,unkar Mitra5 helpline for handloom weavers 1.4.5 Engagement of designers has been set up with a toll free number of 1.@@ >@. CC.. to provide single point of contact to There is a provision for engaging professional handloom weavers across the country for designers in the block level clusters and addressing their professional $ueries. The beyond to design new innovative designs and service is available in seven languages vi=. products. The scheme not only pays for their !indi, English, Tamil, Telegu, #annada, fees, but further outlay is available for ,engali, and <ssamese. The services are providing additional remuneration to designers available all seven days of the week. for establishing marketing linkages. 1.4.10 Welfare measures 1.4.6 Yarn supply Hnder welfare measures, handloom weavers Hnder this scheme, yarn is supplied at mill are covered under -radhan Mantri *eevan *yoti gate price to weavers to compensate them for ,ima Io;ana (-M**,I", -radhan Mantri the high cost of transportation from mill gate 2uraksha ,ima Io;ana (-M2,I", and Mahatma to their workplace.
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