Summer 2019 Issue 37 Northampton Shoemaking capital showcases new campus Our News Our News The New faces and new shoes at the Footwear Awards News There were even more new faces than usual at this year’s Cordwainers National Footwear Student Awards. The awards, which have become a high point in the summer calendar for the footwear trade, were attended by over 200 guests. A Conversation of They included notable names from the British footwear industry, including Emma Hope and Claire Burrows, the designer behind the London footwear label Air & Grace. All were invited to start the evening discussing footwear design with the students and to view Cordwainers – what an impressive array of portfolios and shoe prototypes. Some of the most eye-catching shoe designs sported elaborate gilded heels, is the point of uppers dotted with imitation eyes and chunky trainers with tractor soles. bespoke? As part of London Craft Week, bespoke 1st Prize: Meta Cunder London shoemakers Carréducker – the partner- College of Fashion ship of Deborah Carré and James Ducker 2nd Prize: Dimitri Gabellier – commissioned a film, A Conversation De Montfort University of Cordwainers. Sponsored by the 3rd Prize: Emily Hill Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, London College of Fashion five shoemakers (including James Commendation 1: Ducker, Sebastian Tarek, Felix Joanneau, Monica Bateman James Kearns and Liveryman Dominic University of Northampton Casey) who produce very different styles Commendation 2: of footwear, discussed their experience Liveryman Dominic Casey Sara McMullan of modern handmade shoemaking. London College of Fashion Meta Cunder, 2019 winner from London College of Fashion. Once upon a time, all shoes were shoemakers often need to phone a friend in search handmade. Today, handmade and of the answer to a technical issue. ‘Problem-solving is The three universities that specialise Selfridges, with their vast and impressive bespoke shoemaking is a niche area, part of the joy of what we do and people are now far in footwear design, De Montfort, men’s and women’s shoe floors, attract but the demand for quality, handmade readier to share information’, says James Ducker. It has Northampton and London College of a constant stream of consumers and footwear remains alive and kicking. something to do with the ‘democratisation provided by Fashion at the University of the Arts, industry visitors from around the world. the internet’, says Sebastian Tarek, and more to do with Bespoke shoemakers produce a huge supporting the next generation of shoemakers. ‘Where variety of styles and shapes, and the is the next generation going to come from unless makers partly credit social media and ‘ I can really say this has been the highest of standards and the toughest year ‘ You never know people like us help them? asks James. to judge by far’, said Liveryman Katie Greenyer, Creative Director, Pentland the internet for the wide diversity of whether a shoe’s Brands and chair of the judging panel. She was joined by Liveryman Atalanta style influences. working until it Ultimately, bespoke shoemakers work to produce the finest quality footwear. ‘You never know whether a Weller, Freeman Joachim Sedelmeier (Head of Design, Shoes, at Paul Smith) ‘It’s much easier to get knowledge comes back for shoe’s working until it comes back for its first long sole and guest judge Helen Kirkum.’ Dimitri Gabellier’s design. these days with the internet,’ says James its first long sole and heel. Until it’s been worn and lived in and loved Ducker. Self-taught shoemaker James and heel.’ for a bit, that’s when you really know that you’ve done Kearns proves his point: he initially learnt your job as a bespoke shoemaker’, said Liveryman London have helped to ensure that the Winner of the inaugural award in his shoemaking skills from YouTube Dominic Casey. UK is at the forefront of footwear design. 2014, Helen Kirkum delivered this videos and now has a successful Indeed, it is no coincidence that some year’s keynote speech. Her address to bespoke business selling handmade And that is the point of bespoke: making a really good shoe that fits both the of today’s most sought-after names in the fledgling footwear designers was leather trainers. customer’s foot and their lifestyle. luxury shoe design, from newcomers warm, enlightening and inspirational. Collaboration among cordwainers is Connect with the Cordwainer roots and watch the film, A Conversation of Cordwainers, Jennifer Chamandi and Malone Souliers, She explained how winning this and another theme. Bespoke shoemaking on the news section of the Cordwainer website: to Jimmy Choo and Manolo Blahnik, are other awards, allowed her to take up throws up many challenges and www. cordwainers.org/footwear-industry/what-is-the-point-of-bespoke headquartered in London, and that the internships and fund her MA at the Royal shoe offering in department stores here, College of Art, which helped to pave the notably Harrods and way to future success. Emily Hill of London College of Fashion. Emily Hill of London College of Fashion received third prize, Dimitri Gabellier of De Montfort University was awarded second place, while the 2019 winner of Past Masters refresh the award was Meta Cunder, a student the silverware at London College of Fashion. Visibly Commissioned by the three most recent masters, Jeremy thrilled, but clear-headed enough to Blanford, Patrick Peal and Jonathan Hooper, this new rose already be plotting her next industry bowl is a fabulous addition to the Company’s collection of silver. step, she said: ‘It feels incredible to It joins two other sterling silver rose bowls recently win this award! It means the absolute commissioned by Past Master Sebastian Chamberlain and world to me, as it will allow me to Past Master Christopher King. kick-start my career and help me set up my own brand.’ Liveryman Elisa Anniss 2 The Cordwainer The judges The Cordwainer 3 Our Charities the Master’s Column Our Charities RSBC sensory day at Capel Manor College The Cordwainers are long-time supporters of the Royal Society for Blind Children (RSBC). For the last three years, and at the instigation of Past Master John Rubinstein, Capel Manor College, another of our beneficiaries, has given youngsters from the RSBC the opportunity to spend a day at the college. My year as Master has waltzed by . well nearly. After breaking my hip playing tennis in late November, I was out Cordwainers will be familiar with the saddlery and leatherwork of action during early December. Fortunately, Senior Warden facilities at Capel Manor and the college is also a leading education Nigel Easton kindly took up the reins and I hope this proved provider for those interested in horticulture, the environment and a useful training session for his upcoming Mastership. animal management. The Cordwainers are a City livery company and as Master it is The RSBC youngsters choose from a wide range of activities, such as a great pleasure and privilege to participate in so many civic working with leather, harnessing a Clydesdale farm horse, grooming events, from lectures in the Guildhall and Mansion House and donkeys, arranging flowers, planting pots and learning to handle addresses by luminaries such as Christine Lagarde, to a fair few small animals and reptiles. Liveryman Line Hansen, Team Leader lunches and dinners in beautiful livery halls. Saddlery and Footwear at Capel Manor College, reports. ‘This year we had a fantastic day, with the Master, Jonathan Hooper and his wife Camilla, as well as the Clerk accompanying Past Master John Rubinstein and me in the activities and festivities. The programme began with planting large pots and sowing seeds, followed by football and a The well known actor and Alzheimer’s Ambassador Kevin Whately with the Master at the Livery Dinner. fitness session. After lunch it was all about interacting with reptiles and small mammals – an unforgettable experience for everyone.’ My Master’s charity for the year, raising funds for the Alzheimer’s Society ‘Side by Side’ project has been full-on all year and I am very grateful for the hard work of the Events Committee in Cordwainer Marsden making it all happen. We have tried to enable as many members as possible to join in, and deliberately offered a series of small scholarship funds critical events, aimed at the differing tastes of Company members. care training in Zambia At Christmas I was back with a walking stick, swinging a collecting tin to assist the carol singers young and old, with The Royal Free London Nurses and Midwives Trust is a Renter Warden Henry Fairweather’s dog as the main attraction charity overseen jointly by the Cordwainers’ Company and at Paddington Station. It was both great fun and lucrative – we staff from the Royal Free Hospital. The Trust provides about raised over £1,000. £30,000 of educational support to nurses working within Master Jonathan Hooper congratulates Charity Manager the Royal Free Group each year, predominantly by way of Nancy Treves at the end the London Marathon. Nancy was In February we enjoyed a quiz night in the City, when somehow I awarded the David Skinner Cup for individual charitable grants for scholarships. ended up on the winning team alongside eggheads Past Master fundraising in June. John Rubinstein and Court Assistant Sir Roger Gifford. Senior Clinical Practice Educator Chris Hill, was awarded the We shifted from being quizzical to musical in April, when our Cordwainer William Marsden Scholarship in 2017-18 to support The highlight of this Master’s year, however, was undoubtedly Honorary Chaplain Gordon Giles kindly hosted a glorious a project training intensive care nurses in Zambia. the Cordwainers National Footwear Student Awards held at the performance of Handel’s Messiah in his church of St Mary Magdalene ‘Zambia has hospitals all around the country, but the intensive care Clothworkers’ Hall on 6 June.