Summer 2019 Issue 37

Northampton Shoemaking capital showcases new campus Our News Our News The New faces and new at the Awards News There were even more new faces than usual at this year’s Cordwainers National Footwear Student Awards. The awards, which have become a high point in the summer calendar for the footwear trade, were attended by over 200 guests. A Conversation of They included notable names from the British footwear industry, including Emma Hope and Claire Burrows, the designer behind the London footwear label Air & Grace. All were invited to start the evening discussing footwear design with the students and to view Cordwainers – what an impressive array of portfolios and prototypes. Some of the most eye-catching shoe designs sported elaborate gilded heels, is the point of uppers dotted with imitation eyes and chunky trainers with tractor soles. bespoke? As part of London Craft Week, bespoke 1st Prize:  Meta Cunder London shoemakers Carréducker – the partner- College of Fashion ship of Deborah Carré and James Ducker 2nd Prize: Dimitri Gabellier – commissioned a film, A Conversation De Montfort University of Cordwainers. Sponsored by the 3rd Prize: Emily Hill Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, London College of Fashion five shoemakers (including James Commendation 1: Ducker, Sebastian Tarek, Felix Joanneau, Monica Bateman James Kearns and Liveryman Dominic University of Northampton Casey) who produce very different styles Commendation 2: of footwear, discussed their experience Liveryman Dominic Casey Sara McMullan of modern handmade shoemaking. London College of Fashion Meta Cunder, 2019 winner from London College of Fashion. Once upon a time, all shoes were shoemakers often need to phone a friend in search handmade. Today, handmade and of the answer to a technical issue. ‘Problem-solving is The three universities that specialise Selfridges, with their vast and impressive bespoke shoemaking is a niche area, part of the joy of what we do and people are now far in footwear design, De Montfort, men’s and women’s shoe floors, attract but the demand for quality, handmade readier to share information’, says James Ducker. It has Northampton and London College of a constant stream of consumers and footwear remains alive and kicking. something to do with the ‘democratisation provided by Fashion at the University of the Arts, industry visitors from around the world. the internet’, says Sebastian Tarek, and more to do with Bespoke shoemakers produce a huge supporting the next generation of shoemakers. ‘Where variety of styles and shapes, and the is the next generation going to come from unless makers partly credit social media and ‘I can really say this has been the highest of standards and the toughest year ‘You never know people like us help them? asks James. to judge by far’, said Liveryman Katie Greenyer, Creative Director, Pentland the internet for the wide diversity of whether a shoe’s Brands and chair of the judging panel. She was joined by Liveryman Atalanta style influences. working until it Ultimately, bespoke shoemakers work to produce the finest quality footwear. ‘You never know whether a Weller, Freeman Joachim Sedelmeier (Head of Design, Shoes, at Paul Smith) ‘It’s much easier to get knowledge comes back for shoe’s working until it comes back for its first long sole and guest judge Helen Kirkum.’ Dimitri Gabellier’s design. these days with the internet,’ says James its first long sole and heel. Until it’s been worn and lived in and loved Ducker. Self-taught shoemaker James and heel.’ for a bit, that’s when you really know that you’ve done Kearns proves his point: he initially learnt your job as a bespoke shoemaker’, said Liveryman London have helped to ensure that the Winner of the inaugural award in his shoemaking skills from YouTube Dominic Casey. UK is at the forefront of footwear design. 2014, Helen Kirkum delivered this videos and now has a successful Indeed, it is no coincidence that some year’s keynote speech. Her address to bespoke business selling handmade And that is the point of bespoke: making a really good shoe that fits both the of today’s most sought-after names in the fledgling footwear designers was leather trainers. customer’s foot and their lifestyle. luxury shoe design, from newcomers warm, enlightening and inspirational. Collaboration among cordwainers is Connect with the Cordwainer roots and watch the film, A Conversation of Cordwainers, Jennifer Chamandi and Malone Souliers, She explained how winning this and another theme. Bespoke shoemaking on the news section of the Cordwainer website: to Jimmy Choo and Manolo Blahnik, are other awards, allowed her to take up throws up many challenges and www. cordwainers.org/footwear-industry/what-is-the-point-of-bespoke headquartered in London, and that the internships and fund her MA at the Royal shoe offering in department stores here, College of Art, which helped to pave the notably Harrods and way to future success. Emily Hill of London College of Fashion. Emily Hill of London College of Fashion received third prize, Dimitri Gabellier of De Montfort University was awarded second place, while the 2019 winner of Past Masters refresh the award was Meta Cunder, a student the silverware at London College of Fashion. Visibly Commissioned by the three most recent masters, Jeremy thrilled, but clear-headed enough to Blanford, Patrick Peal and Jonathan Hooper, this new rose already be plotting her next industry bowl is a fabulous addition to the Company’s collection of silver. step, she said: ‘It feels incredible to It joins two other sterling silver rose bowls recently win this award! It means the absolute commissioned by Past Master Sebastian Chamberlain and world to me, as it will allow me to Past Master Christopher King. kick-start my career and help me set up my own brand.’ Liveryman Elisa Anniss 2 The Cordwainer The judges The Cordwainer 3 Our Charities the Master’s Column Our Charities RSBC sensory day at Capel Manor College The Cordwainers are long-time supporters of the Royal Society for Blind Children (RSBC). For the last three years, and at the instigation of Past Master John Rubinstein, Capel Manor College, another of our beneficiaries, has given youngsters from the RSBC the opportunity to spend a day at the college. My year as Master has waltzed by . . . well nearly. After breaking my hip playing tennis in late November, I was out Cordwainers will be familiar with the saddlery and leatherwork of action during early December. Fortunately, Senior Warden facilities at Capel Manor and the college is also a leading education Nigel Easton kindly took up the reins and I hope this proved provider for those interested in horticulture, the environment and a useful training session for his upcoming Mastership. animal management. The Cordwainers are a City livery company and as Master it is The RSBC youngsters choose from a wide range of activities, such as a great pleasure and privilege to participate in so many civic working with leather, harnessing a Clydesdale farm horse, grooming events, from lectures in the Guildhall and Mansion House and donkeys, arranging flowers, planting pots and learning to handle addresses by luminaries such as Christine Lagarde, to a fair few small animals and reptiles. Liveryman Line Hansen, Team Leader lunches and dinners in beautiful livery halls. Saddlery and Footwear at Capel Manor College, reports. ‘This year we had a fantastic day, with the Master, Jonathan Hooper and his wife Camilla, as well as the Clerk accompanying Past Master John Rubinstein and me in the activities and festivities. The programme began with planting large pots and sowing seeds, followed by football and a The well known actor and Alzheimer’s Ambassador Kevin Whately with the Master at the Livery Dinner. fitness session. After lunch it was all about interacting with reptiles and small mammals – an unforgettable experience for everyone.’ My Master’s charity for the year, raising funds for the Alzheimer’s Society ‘Side by Side’ project has been full-on all year and I am very grateful for the hard work of the Events Committee in Cordwainer Marsden making it all happen. We have tried to enable as many members as possible to join in, and deliberately offered a series of small scholarship funds critical events, aimed at the differing tastes of Company members. care training in Zambia At Christmas I was back with a walking stick, swinging a collecting tin to assist the carol singers young and old, with The Royal Free London Nurses and Midwives Trust is a Renter Warden Henry Fairweather’s dog as the main attraction charity overseen jointly by the Cordwainers’ Company and at Paddington Station. It was both great fun and lucrative – we staff from the Royal Free Hospital. The Trust provides about raised over £1,000. £30,000 of educational support to nurses working within Master Jonathan Hooper congratulates Charity Manager the Royal Free Group each year, predominantly by way of Nancy Treves at the end the London Marathon. Nancy was In February we enjoyed a quiz night in the City, when somehow I awarded the David Skinner Cup for individual charitable grants for scholarships. ended up on the winning team alongside eggheads Past Master fundraising in June. John Rubinstein and Court Assistant Sir Roger Gifford. Senior Clinical Practice Educator Chris Hill, was awarded the We shifted from being quizzical to musical in April, when our Cordwainer William Marsden Scholarship in 2017-18 to support The highlight of this Master’s year, however, was undoubtedly Honorary Chaplain Gordon Giles kindly hosted a glorious a project training intensive care nurses in Zambia. the Cordwainers National Footwear Student Awards held at the performance of Handel’s Messiah in his church of St Mary Magdalene ‘Zambia has hospitals all around the country, but the intensive care Clothworkers’ Hall on 6 June. It was a truly exceptional evening By the time of my second trip, the Intensive Care Unit had doubled in Enfield. Next, there was a guided City walk led by the redoubtable facilities in most are very limited. The largest by far (with 10 beds and there was a real buzz in the hall all evening. To begin with, a in size by taking over the private ward next door, the single critical Murray Craig, Clerk to the Chamberlain’s Court and organised by when I first went out) is the University Teaching Hospital in Lusaka, hum of anticipation – who is going to win? And after the winners care nurse tutor was now the principal nurse tutor and had four Court Assistant Ann Holmes, who very kindly entertained us after known universally as UTH. It has a good standard of equipment, were announced there was real warmth, with great networking tutors working with her. the walk before we all went to evensong at St Paul’s. mostly donated, but lacks the training to make the best use of it. taking place – it was fantastic. I have never experienced anything We saved the most strenuous event for last: the West to East Supplies of everything from drugs, through bandages and tubing for The critical care course had been interrupted earlier in the year like it at any Cordwainer event. Coast Cycle ride which took place at the end of June, with the breathing machines, to electricity and water are more difficult. – in between my two visits there had been a cholera epidemic in More and more members of the footwear trade attend the ten cyclists riding 150 miles from Seascale to Whitby over the Everything is reused: tubing that in the west would be thrown away Zambia and many nurses were drafted to work in cholera treatment awards and it has become an important feature of the footwear Pennines in just one day. The event raised £10,000 for Alzheimer’s, after one use is sterilised and reused. A standard facility in the ICU centres. This might seem an odd thing to remind me of the Royal fashion calendar. The press attended a preview session in bringing the total raised for the Master’s Charity to £45,000. is a dustbin of water, for use if the water supply goes off, and it’s not Free – but the Free got its ‘Royal’ title under Marsden’s leadership, advance of the show, which enabled them to talk to the unknown for nurses to have to ventilate patients by hand for hours if when it was the only hospital in London to stay open during students and view their work – which was truly stunning. The It was a wonderful end to a wonderful year. My family – Camilla, the electricity supply fails. cholera epidemics in 1832, 1849 and 1854. whole event underlines the importance of what we do as a Jack and Freddie – have been enthusiastic participants every step of the way, for which I am truly grateful. And none of this Before this project started, there was a critical care nursing course at A number of sources are supporting the final goal of a BSc Critical Company – support footwear designers and crafts people of the would have been possible without the dedicated support of the UTH, but there was only one critical care nurse tutor in the country Care course, validated by the University of Zambia, and taught in future and help to connect them with the movers and shakers of office team – Nancy, Sue and our clerk Penny Graham. It’s over and limited capacity on the course. The school of nursing had asked the School of Nursing at UTH. I’m very proud to have played a small the footwear industry. It’s a wonderful evening which I sincerely to Nigel Easton, who I know will lead from the front and enjoy a for help to develop the course and wanted to develop a BSc in critical part in working towards this, and grateful for the support from the hope many more Cordwainers will make a real effort to attend brilliant year. care nursing to develop capacity in intensive care. Cordwainers that enabled me to do it.’ next year.

4 The Cordwainer The Cordwainer 5 the cordwainer the cordwainer Northampton of shoemaking in Northampton, but also the global market that From hide to high street they will be operating in. Simply getting a degree is no longer Freeman and Senior Lecturer enough – transferable skills are essential.’ Jane Schaffer, doyenne of accessories and footwear education in the UK, says, Shoemaking ‘Northampton offers many ‘Cordwainer sponsorship unique opportunities to capital showcases offers our students footwear design students. It valuable opportunities, is the only course in Europe, from networking events for example, where you can and hardship funds, to study both footwear and new campus accessories with a working travel bursaries, which enable our students tannery on-site. Students to achieve results they come here from all over the world for this reason alone.’ The shoe trade in Northampton has a long and never dreamed were The tannery, which has distinguished pedigree, famously earning its spurs possible. Our graduates, such as Helen Kirkum, been relocated from Park during the English Civil War when the town kitted are testament to that.’ Campus to the new Waterside out Cromwell’s soldiers with . For centuries, the Campus, allows the footwear combination of abundant oak trees, a thriving cattle Acting Subject Leader and accessories students Vicki Dean trade and the meandering River Nene meant that the Staff and students from the University of Northampton to acquire a much deeper town had all the natural constituents necessary for at the 2019 Footwear Awards. knowledge of the process leather tanning. By the end of the 19th century more behind leather finishes and than half the adult male population was employed in International influences dyes. It also allows the students to have a unique understanding the shoe trade, although rising imports and the cost of Students have the opportunity to travel to European trade of the supply-chain, from hide to high street. manufacture in the mid-20th century led to a decline, fairs and the chance to study for two weeks at an Italian design ‘Past Warden William Church, Joint Managing Director of and industrial depression hung over the town like the school. Monica Bateman, a runner up in the Cordwainers Joseph Cheaney and Sons says, ‘We believe it is imperative pungent aromas from the Northampton’s old tanneries. National Footwear Student of the Year competition in 2019 to encourage the next generation of shoemakers and says, ‘I was lucky enough to visit the trade fairs Lineapelle in footwear designers, and footwear students tour the Cheaney However, Northampton has recently acquired a new polish. Milan and Première Vision in Paris. Both opportunities helped factory every year to see the entire shoemaking process. Last November, Foster and Son opened the first new me with my self-confidence, talking to many people in the Cheaney’s and companies like ours want to employ talented, footwear factory in the town for decades; regeneration is Northampton student industry, and also getting lots of inspiration and samples that knowledgeable and committed people, and encouraging underway in the centre, with the legendary shoe collection Monica Bateman. contributed to my studies’. footwear students is an excellent way to achieve this.’ at Northampton Museum about to be rehoused in new facilities; and in 2018 the university moved to a fabulous Trips like this, and of course the materials for the course are Helen Kirkum, the first winner of the Cordwainers National Core shoemaking skills new campus. expensive. Cordwainer prizes recognise real student talent and Footwear Student Awards in 2014 and guest speaker this year, The course focuses on footwear design and includes a strong help the winners with their costs. Second-year Anna Melegh has summed up her time at Northampton: ‘At UoN I had an Footwear design and leather accessories are core areas of making component. Programme Leader Chris Hill comes from won several Cordwainer awards. ‘Thanks to the hardship amazing experience, and was lucky enough to be supported study at the University of Northampton, rooted as they are an industry background as a designer/pattern-maker, as well fund, in the second term I was able to buy good during my study by winning some industry projects with in the town’s industrial heritage and well supported by local as having taught Jimmy Choo in the 1980s. She believes that materials to finish my collection and present my Cheaney’s and of course the Worshipful Company of businesses. The course at Northampton attracts students an understanding of pattern-making and the construction of ideas in fine quality. The innovation fund is Cordwainers. Those awards allowed me to fund from around the world, some of whom come over simply for footwear is key to good design. Consequently, in their first probably the biggest help, as it means I internships whilst studying’. the opportunity to work in an institution with a really well- year, students focus on core making skills and learn how to can start to work on my final major established shoemaking heritage. make a , a Gibson shoe and a chukka . In their project (FMP) and I’m not second year, footwear students learn how to create their limited in terms of cost of own leather finishes and work alongside fashion students the materials.’ on collaborative accessories projects, a process that enriches them all. ‘Underpinning these practical craft skills is a series of masterclasses given by industry professionals,’ explains Chris ‘and this extra support is made possible by the generous contribution of the Cordwainers’ Company.’ It is striking how hard university staff work to ensure that their students are not only well trained and employable, but also well-connected. Acting Subject Leader Vicki Dean forges links locally and internationally with companies and institutions who offer work experience, internships and prizes to students at all levels. ‘It is imperative that our students leave university understanding not only the rich heritage

6 The Cordwainer The Cordwainer 7 New Appointments the new master

New INtroducing the new appointments Master 2019-20

Clothed with the Livery 2018-2019 Nigel Easton was educated at Churcher’s College, Petersfield and the RAF Officer Training Unit at Henlow, but coming from an Army family, Freeman Elisa Anniss he became a soldier. Freeman Dominic Casey Nigel joined the 3rd Battalion of the Royal Regiment of Fusiliers in February 1976 Freeman Andrew Peal and served in Britain, Northern Ireland, West Germany and Berlin. In 1983 he (son of Past Master Patrick Peal) attended a full time residential engineering course in armoured vehicle design. Two years later, he elected to give up a regular career to join his wife Nicky’s Freeman Emma Peal family business, Butser Rubber Ltd. He joined the Territorial Army the same day. (daughter of Past Master Patrick Peal) Nigel has enjoyed a distinguished career Freeman John Miller in the Army Reserve: highlights include, (formerly the Clerk) posts as Colonel of the London Regiment Freeman Ruth Moussa in 1998, aide-de-camp to the Queen and (daughter of Past Master Paul Mainzer) finally Honorary Colonel to C Company. Nigel joined the Company by redemption, after acting as liaison for the Cordwainers and the Fusiliers for many years. Clothed ‘During my year of Admitted to the Freedom of the Company 2018-2019 with the Livery in 2013, he serves as a office, I hope as many Trustee of the Harben Armoury Trust. members as possible will focus on our ‘I am very keen that the Cordwainers roots: the traditional focus on the Company’s core business Alexandra Dariescu Emily Linnell Cordwainer role of – that is getting closer to the footwear Formerly a Cordwainer music scholar, Emily Linnell studied footwear design furthering excellence trade. During my year of office, I hope Alexander Dariescu is a celebrated at the London College of Fashion and in footwear design as many members as possible will focus international concert pianist. is currently working as a designer at and manufacture. ’ Start-Rite Shoes in Norwich. on our roots: the traditional Cordwainer role of furthering excellence in footwear design and manufacture. As an engineer Nigel Easton with his wife Nicky and a student and manufacturer, I can see exciting possibilities for the Company in the Felicity Easton designer at the Footwear Awards. The daughter of the Master Nigel support it offers to the footwear industry and footwear education.’ Easton, Fizz has supported her William Lobb William Lobb is a director at the Nigel, and his wife Nicky, run a small manufacturing company in Hampshire, which supplies high-quality mouldings to the aerospace father at many events, including the industry and other sectors, including orthotic shoe supports. They have four adult children, including Felicity, who was admitted to Marsden March. family run company, bespoke bootmakers John Lobb. the Freedom of the Company in December 2018. ‘Our fundraising will be devoted to one of the Company’s core charities, the Royal Marsden Hospital, particularly George and the Giant Pledge, a fundraising initiative to help beat childhood cancer.’

Richard Edgecliffe-Johnson Richard Edgecliffe-Johnson is chairman and owner of bespoke Professor Stephen Powis Coast to coast for Alzheimer’s shoemakers Foster & Son. Stephen Powis is the National Medical Director of NHS England. He – a wheely good effort helped to develop the long-standing The culmination of this year’s fundraising literally scaled new association between the Cordwainers’ heights, as a ten-strong Cordwainer team attempted to cycle Penelope Graham Company and the Royal Free. 150 miles in a day, from Seascale in Cumbria, to Whitby on the Penny became Clerk of the Worshipful Company of Cordwainers north Yorkshire coast. on 1 January 2019. It was a punishing route that included climbing the Hardknott Pass in the Lake District on the hottest day of the year, and not everyone Joachim Sedelmeier made it. However, after a tremendous effort by the whole team A graduate of Cordwainers College, (including the drivers and sandwich-makers of the support crew), Joachim is Head of Design, Shoes at the Cordwainers gathered in Whitby for the finish, when saddle-sore Lona Jones Paul Smith. Freddie Hooper arrived after 13 hours 30 minutes, closely followed Lona is a footwear designer by Jeremy Blanford and Sarah Blanford, who zoomed along the sea and consultant. front after 15 hours of cycling. The cyclists had trained incredibly hard and all deserve our congratulations for raising an amazing £10,000 for the Alzheimer’s Society. 8 The Cordwainer The Cordwainer 9 our activities in my shoes

Our in my activities Inter-Livery Golf Croquet shoes Past Master John Rubinstein reports. On a day which German-born designer Freeman Joachim Sedelmeier moved to London to study footwear in the 1990s, first learning about was pregnant with and eventually delivered a deluge, Cordwainers College after reading a magazine article celebrating the famous footwear alumni of the time, ‘names’ that included intrepid Cordwainers grappled with testing weather Patrick Cox, Emma Hope and Jimmy Choo. Designing for leading British and international footwear labels including Calvin Klein, conditions and encountered some seriously gifted Coach, Oliver Sweeney and now as the Head of Design, Shoes at Paul Smith, Sedelmeier has shown that he too is a leading name in mallet-handlers to return respectable results on lawns footwear design. His current role involves managing a team of designers who create the shoes for Paul Smith men’s and women’s that ran variously like a curling rink and a cat’s fur collections, and he describes it as ‘conducting an orchestra of individually talented musicians in preparation for a concert that rubbed the wrong way. happens every three months’. Liveryman Elisa Anniss asked him about his life. The Glovers’ Company hosted this, the third, What have you learned from Sir Paul annual event at the world championships venue Smith, who is probably one of the at Southwick, Worthing, for players from 11 livery most enduring figures in British men’s companies. The Cordwainer pairs, Past Masters Lance fashion? Shaw and John Rubinstein, and Jeremy Blanford and First and foremost, Paul Smith is a ready- the Master, Jonathan Hooper, survived a face-off in to-wear clothing company, so a lot of Croquet team: John Rubinstein, Lance Shaw, Jonathan Hooper the second round and were eventually placed information is shared between the teams and Jeremy Blanford. a creditable 7th and 15th respectively. to align colours, prints and materials Inter-Livery Rifle Shooting 31 May throughout the collections. Paul is living proof you can find inspiration in anything. Past Warden Arthur Chamberlain reports. The Cordwainer trio of Glenn Shaw, Arthur Chamberlain and Richard Edgecliffe-Johnson His insatiable appetite and curiosity for enjoyed a challenging day of shooting at the annual Inter-Livery Rifle Day at Bisley in Surrey. Although the Cordwainers were not interesting things is what influences placed, Richard Edgecliffe-Johnson demonstrated unerring sniping skills, scoring top marks with 50 out of 50. all our collections. He’s still incredibly passionate about product and very hands-on, signing off all our designs.

How is it working at a British company with such a global outlook? It requires constantly reviewing recent sale reactions and future market trends. How and when did you become a At Paul Smith do you work Cordwainer? with students? A big part of design happens in the actual factories, so travelling in Europe and to the I became a Cordwainer by redemption in We have recently started working with Far East is essential. Twice yearly we go and December 2018. William Church, whom I interns from LCF and other colleges and visit our Japanese partners who have a Richard Edgecliffe-Johnson Arthur Chamberlain at the Clay Shoot prize giving. have known for some years, put in a good are always on the lookout for new talent. longstanding relationship with Paul Smith. word for me. Inter-Livery Charity Clay Shoot 16 May (Photo courtesy of Richard Washbrooke Photography) How does it feel to be involved, this Lasting impressions – what do you enjoy The Inter-Livery Clay shoot attracts over 500 participants. The Cordwainer team, Arthur Chamberlain, Mark Shaw, William Lobb and What is one of your earliest shoe-related time as a judge of the Cordwainers most, so far, about being a member? Michael Payne were placed 52nd overall, in an event that was, almost inevitably, won by the Gunmakers. A new prize this year was for memories? National Footwear Student of the Year It is really good to see a great sense scoring 10 out of 10 on the high tower: 250 shooters entered but only two managed a full house. And one of them was a Cordwainer! I recently came across a black-and-white Competition given that you once won of community spirit and openness to photo of me in a white shirt, knitted an award yourself? welcome a new generation of designers Golf shorts and braces wearing white leather I was fortunate to win the Cordwainer and makers in the Cordwainer world. Past Warden David Walker reviews the season. We hosted the Leathery Livery shoes. I must have been three Medal for Footwear in 1993. Quite a few Day at my home club, Effingham Golf Club, in April. As the Cordwainers won last or four years old. Quite a picture. Luckily years have passed since then, so I am What would you describe as your most year I was tasked with organising the day for 22 golfers from six leather liveries. there was no Internet around at the time! really looking forward to seeing how meaningful Cordwainer moment? The Girdlers stole the day with an impressive first and second. The Cordwainers things have moved on. Winning the Cordwainer medal at college had a team of four and finished mid-table. You studied at Cordwainers College in was a great experience, but becoming a the early nineties. How different was it Heart and sole – tell us about your life The main Livery Golf day, the Prince Arthur Cup, is played at Walton Heath Freeman is quite a unique experience and back then compared with today? away from Cordwainers and shoes? over 36 holes with 48 Livery Companies. The Cordwainers finishing an a great honour too. impressive fifth equal, while the Cutlers won the day. It was based in Hackney’s Mare Street, Having lived in south London for the decades before Shoreditch/Hackney past 20 years, it’s really great to get out If you were master one day, from your Last was the annual Cordwainer vs Curriers match for the East Tankard at became too cool for school. Then, it of the city now and then. Once a year, shoe industry perspective what would Piltdown. Despite some good scores returned by us, the Curriers had some very offered diplomas, not degree courses like I venture to Wales and try my hand at you try and introduce? good individual scores which was just enough for them to win. On the same it does today. The college was small and portrait sculpture. I’ve been doing this Maybe eventually I would try and day David Walker won the Cordwainer Cup with 33 points off a handicap of four. had a very close-knit atmosphere. Tutors now for the past five years but will have to establish a more international network as If you would like to join in any of the company sports teams, please contact the ate with us in the canteen, so you got to persevere for at least another ten to create a basis to exchange ideas and learn skills The Cordwainer golfers at Walton Heath. team captains via the office. Golfers in particular, the Cordwainers need you! know everybody. something that closely resembles a head. from other shoemaking cultures.

10 The Cordwainer The Cordwainer 11 Notice Board Obituary Events Calendar Past Master Robert Emerson 1929-2019 2019 Robert was born on 27 July 1929 in Switzerland, 02 Sep Mon Events Committee 18.30 the youngest of five Charity Committee 11.30 Finance and Resources Committee 14.30 siblings. His father, 24 Sep Tue Master and Wardens Meeting 16.30 Ambrose, was born Court 17.15 in Uruguay, where his Court Supper great-grandfather had 02 Oct Wed Lord Mayor’s Election 11.00 B made his fortune. He was Royal Free London Nurses and 09 Oct Wed Midwives Trust AGM 15.30 educated at Haileybury & (venue: Royal Free) Imperial Service College 18 Oct Fri Livery Dinner 11.00 F at Hertford. After National Cordwainers’ Social TBC 18.30 Service, he went up to (venue TBC) Gonville & Caius College, Harben Armoury Trust AGM Cambridge where he read 29 Oct Tue 12.30 (Cordwainers’ Office) Economics and Law. 31 Oct Thu Footwear Education Event TBC In 1952 he started upon his career as a chartered accountant, passing Cordwainers Educational Trust (CET) 11.00 his Intermediate Exam in the top 10% of candidates, and completing his Freedom Committee 14.00 Final Examination in November 1956. He worked with distinction in a 06 Nov Wed Master and Wardens Meeting 16.30 Court 17.15 wide variety of businesses, in almost all of which he held directorships Court Supper – Peat Marwick, the Economist Intelligence Unit, Morgan Crucible Festival of St. Cecilia 20 Nov Wed 11.00 Group and Thomas Tilling. His last job was with the Kent Economic (Westminster Abbey) Development Board where he was managing director from 1984 to 1990. 21 Nov Thu Marsden Lecture (Royal Free Hospital) 17.00 A Robert became a Freeman of the Cordwainers by Redemption on 2 02 Dec Mon Events Commitee 18.30 June 1954, and was clothed with the Livery in 1956. He served as Junior Finance & Resources Committee 13.00 Master and Wardens Meeting 14.20 Warden in 1969 and was appointed to the Court in 1982, before serving Court 14.40 05 Dec Thu as Master in 1988. In December 1991 he was appointed Chairman of Admission & Clothing Ceremony 16.10 Carol Service - (St Mary Aldermary) 18.15 A the Aims Committee, the forerunner of our current Vision Committee. Light Supper 19.30 A The Report was presented in May 1993 and made numerous far-sighted 2020 recommendations, many of which have now been implemented. Despite living in Ireland, Robert was a frequent attendant at Court, 07 Jan Tue 12th Night Court Dinner 18.00 making many valuable contributions to the discussions. Freedom Committee 12.00 Finance and Resources Committee 14.30 Robert was a man with a wide range of interests – he was a founding 5 Feb Wed Master and Wardens Meeting 16.30 Court 17.15 member and director of the New Opera Company – and was politically Court Supper active in his younger days, standing as Liberal candidate for Folkestone and 2 Mar Mon Events Committee 18.30 Hythe in the 1959 election. He was a deeply committed Christian like his 13 Mar Fri Civic Dinner 18.30 B father, who had forsaken medicine to set up an Anglian Mission in Spain United Guilds’ Service in the 1930s before the Civil War, and throughout his life was involved in 27 Mar Fri 11.15 (St Paul’s Cathedral) parish affairs either as warden or treasurer. A - All Liverymen, Freemen, Court and D - Senior Livery invited. Robert met Sally in London and they married in 1965. They have two Company Widows invited. E - All Freemen and Freeborn children B - All Liverymen invited. (aged 14-20) of Liverymen invited. children, Harriet a Freeman, and Daniel, who was Junior Warden in 2008 C - All junior Liverymen, Freemen and F - All Liverymen, Court and Company and is a past Chairman of the Events Committee. Freeborn children (aged 18-20) of Widows invited. Liverymen invited. Past Master Paddy Skinner

Marriages Congratulations to Past Master Paul Mainzer on his marriage to Trixie Goldman Follow us online! Deaths We regret to announce the deaths of: @WorshipfulCordwainers Past Warden Thomas Peter St John Lidiard WorshipfulCordwainers on 28 December 2018 @Cordwainers Past Master Robert Daniel Emerson on 1 April 2019

The Clerk is delighted to hear from all Cordwainers. Please remember to tell the office about changes of address and your family news. © 2019 The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers. The Cordwainer is published twice a year. Copies are retained at the Cordwainers’ office. Contact the editor via the Cordwainers’ office: [email protected] or telephone +44 (0) 20 7929 1121. The Worshipful Company of Cordwainers, Clothworkers’ Hall, Dunster Court, Mincing Lane, London EC3R 7AH.

12 The Cordwainer