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damascus and beyond Colleen Chesterman (Oliffe) (BA (Hons) ’63, Dip ED ’64) found beauty, ancient history and underwear in the Middle East n mid-April 2009, 12 friends, In such surroundings the ruined carved figures of leaders with white eight of them alumni of the ancient cities present gloriously. staring eyes and feather skirts from University, met in the old city Graeco-Roman Apamea has a Mari and brightly painted frescoes of Damascus. I had planned 2-kilometre long colonnaded street, of Old Testament scenes from a the journey to explore Syria with swirling stripes on grey columns; third-century AD synagogue in Dura and Lebanon, using books Nabatean-Roman Bosra has a Europos on the Euphrates River. Sadly, such as Monuments of Syria, complete Roman theatre for more the Syrian museums have limited ia compendium of sites written by than 15,000 built of black basalt, resources and the displays could be alumnus Ross Burns, as well as the stage outlined by white granite improved. In comparison the National notes from a CCE course on Syria columns; Aramaic-Roman Palmyra Museum in Beirut, rebuilt after its run by Ben Churcher, and booked has honeyed stone, glowing at dawn destruction in the civil war, now through World Expeditions. Syria can and sunset. In Lebanon is Baalbek, handsomely displays just the pick of sound like Ancient History I, with another golden city, dominated by six its holdings, which had been preserved cities established by 3000 BC from immense columns, with snowy peaks in cement. We saw some excellent trading wealth, with goods coming in the distance. It is also the Hezbollah ancient mosaics in smaller museums, across deserts from the east, and administrative centre and we were the most impressive being Syria’s al- west through Mediterranean seaports. offered yellow flags and T-shirts Maara in a Sassanid caravanserai, and What was unexpected is the beauty decorated with green rifles. Lebanon’s Beittidine in an Ottoman of the scenery, from barren deserts In the museums of Damascus palace. to high mountains, snowcapped in and Aleppo we saw remains of more Everywhere visitors are aware of Lebanon, and in spring: green fields ancient cities, including a stone with the history of religion in this region. sprinkled with wildflowers. the world’s first alphabet from Ugarit; Byzantine Christianity saw the building 14 SAM March 2010 Damascus bazaar has curved glass roofs like a Parisian gallery, Aleppo’s is more cramped and medieval in atmosphere. In Aleppo we arranged a special visit to the apartment of the descendants of the Belgian consul getting a glimpse of cosmopolitan mercantile life. The founder from the Austro-Hungarian empire imported Bohemian glass and married the daughter of the Venetian consul; among their descendants were early photographers and archaeologists. I became fascinated by 18th-century Ottoman courtyard houses or beits, which turn away from the streets. They have rooms with magnificent carved and painted decoration surrounding courtyards, paved in soft coloured marble, with tinkling fountains, citrus trees, roses and fragrant jasmine. of Aleppo cathedral dedicated to St open courtyard of the mosque was Some have become museums, others Helen, Constantine’s mother, with quite empty of people, the floor tiles hotels where we stayed. We also handsome capitals decorated with shimmering from recent rain and stayed in historic hotels, built for 19th acanthus leaves that seem to wave exquisite gold and green mosaics with century Grand Tours. In Baalbeck the in a wind. It became a medressa, designs of plants and cities gleaming Palmyra Hotel defined new levels an Islamic religious school. In the from the walls. The entry to Damascus of faded grandeur, with threadbare eastern desert is Rasafa, its huge Museum is a reconstructed doorway of carpets held down by columns and limestone walls dotted with mica a desert palace and we saw the remote unflued room heaters dominating all that shimmers in the harsh light, ruins of its partner driving through the space, but its walls featured Cocteau and churches commemorating the desert between Palmyra and Aleppo. drawings, letters from Lawrence of martyred legionary St Sergius. Even Aleppo’s massive fortress is built on the Arabia and photos of the famous who more splendid is the 6th century site of the Greek acropolis and had an had stayed there. St Simeon Stylites monastery, an important role in fighting the Crusaders. We ate very well, particularly in important pilgrimage centre in Damascus, at the stylish glass-walled delightful countryside. It is dedicated Narange restaurant in Straight Street to the saint who lived on an 18m high and also in traditional beits. We also pillar, the shrunken remains of which enjoyed picnics, with flat bread heaped are in the centre of four basilicas. with spicy dips and white cheese – and Nearby are the “Dead Cities”– ruins halva to follow. Delicious biscuits were of Byzantine towns. We visited two, for sale at stalls in souks. Lebanese Serjilla, with large stone houses in wine was freely available but we often grey and russet stone, baths, public chose freshly squeezed juices. buildings, even an olive oil factory; In both countries we saw large camps of Palestinian refugees. There and Ruweiha, on a barren rocky site, The Crusaders arrived in Syria in the is no up-to date count of numbers, and with once-magnificent large churches late 11th century ostensibly to reclaim they have spent years in limbo, not able where peasant families and their holy sites. We visited three splendid to gain citizenship or worthwhile work goats, chooks and cows now live. It castle-forts built by them. Qalaat so as not to lose their refugee status. was extraordinary to have these sites Saladin, in beautiful mountains, has Gender roles intrigued us. Young to ourselves, to picnic among nettles, a deep man-made gorge to protect it women wear skin-tight jeans, with and to flee from a savage farm dog, from attack and a mosque and palace scarves casually draped over their just as William Dalrymple described in built by Saladin. Black basalt Qalaat heads; schoolgirls noisily challenge From the Holy Mountain. Marquab is on a high spur with views of boys. Women wear long black chadors, Damascus became the first capital of the Mediterranean. The most famous, but in the cities the shops and market the Muslim world in the 8th century. Its Krak des Chevaliers, has walls in grey stalls (always run by men) display most impressive building is the Great stone divided by a moat and a 12th curvaceous beaded evening gowns Mosque, established by the Umayyad century great hall. All are on high and shockingly brief, glittery women’s dynasty, which controlled trade routes peaks with splendid views. underwear. A book, The Secret Life of and the pilgrimage to Mecca. It is a Despite our delightful rural Syrian Lingerie, depicted extraordinary palimpsest, built on the remains of explorations, our real pleasure was in undergarments featuring mobile a Byzantine basilica of St John the Damascus and Aleppo, the oldest cities phones and animals, but we realised Baptist, itself constructed on a temple in the world, still visible in the midst of it was going to take a long hunt in the of Jupiter, previously dedicated to the dreary modern cities. The dominance souks to find these. We are delighted Hittite Haddad. In the square outside of trade has continued with vibrant to have an excuse for another visit. this stunning building are an arch and souks in each city full of booty from the columns from the Roman temple and world, such as Chinese jade, Afghan Photos this page: inside the gate, the handsome tomb lapis, embroideries from Uzbekistan, Colleen Chesterman of Saladin. On our first visit the great olive oil soaps and fragrant spices. SAM March 2010 15 eyre apparent IN A world of homogenised destinations , South Australia’S Eyre Peninsula is still defiantly individualistic, mostly unspoilt and heart-stoppingly beautiful, writes Diana Simmonds ort Lincoln, gateway to the Eyre Peninsula, unhindered all the way to Antarctica. No wonder Flinders is catching on to 21st-century with posh found naming his discoveries so simple: when he wasn’t marinas, jus instead of gravy and more honouring sponsors (Isaac Coffin’s bay) and shipmates millionaires per square McMansion metre (tragic Lieutenant Thistle’s commemorative island) his own than anywhere else in Australia. But the emotions provided such landmarks as Cape Catastrophe, vast expanse of Boston Bay is still the Point Avoid and Anxious Bay. rambunctious place seen by 19-year-old For the venturesome, behind the endless beaches here Pwindjammer apprentice Eric Newby in 1939 and recorded in and at Coffin Bay are the constantly shifting, dazzling white his travel classic, The Last Grain Race. sand dunes. You need your wits about you however, maps Matthew Flinders (1774-1814), who named so much of can be contradictory and out of date, and getting bogged is coastal Australia, including Port Lincoln and Boston Bay easy. While mobile phones mean calling for help is relatively (he was a native of Lincolnshire), would recognise it too, simple, the ignominy would be hard to bear. particularly the lack of fresh water; it caused the deaths Nevertheless, peace, parrots and the sound of oysters of eight of his crewmen when they set out to find a source, growing plump are Coffin Bay village’s main attributes, along and drowned. And it decided Colonel William Light against with the peninsula’s best restaurant: The Oysterbeds. It’s Port Lincoln as South Australia’s capital; he built Adelaide where the finest local seafood and produce go to be eaten. instead, less than an hour’s daily flight to the east.

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