CHIPPEWA Indian women as pictured by Eastman Johnson

SEEG wm A Legend of the Fur Trade

Told by EDWARD W. DAVIS

MR. DAVIS, who loas for many years di­ is the following story. No claim can be rector of the Mines Experiment Station of made for its accuracy or strict authenticity. the University of Minnesota, is usually It has been told before many campfires, identified by Minnesotans unth the develop­ and no doubt numerous details have been ment of the state's taconite industry. He added as well as forgotten. Yet the persist­ appears here in a totally different role. ence through generations of such a legend Long interested in the lore of the border is in itself interesting, and as retold by Mr. lakes canoe country, he Jias collected many Davis, Joe Blackjack's tale is a good yarn of its tales and legends, and among them and a fascinating example of north country folklore. Ed. ^Mr. John Richardson — known from Grand Portage to Fort Frances as "Jock" — was born in Scotland. After coming to America, he worked as a ONE EVENING some years ago in an old fur buyer and traveled through the Canadian lake country from end to end. In 1931 he settled on Big trapping shack on Northern Light Lake, Island, now called Jock's Island, in Saganaga Lake, Jock Richardson and I were sitting around on the Canadian side of the border. There he oper­ the stove after supper, waiting for bedtime, ates a lodge and resort known as the Saganaga Trad­ ing Post, where he lives the year around with his and Jock told me this story.! jjg jj^^j heard family. it from an old Indian called Joe Blackjack,

June 1961 235 whose Ojibway name was Kiwedin Binis, great trader Pierre Gaultier, Sieur de la meaning "the clean, cold north wind." The Verendrye, who, after a four-year period two of them had met when Jock first came of disfavor, again held a permit from the to live in the border country, and over the King of France for a monopoly of the fur years they became good friends. According trade west of the great lake. to Jock, the old Chippewa knew more Landing on the beach, the voyageurs un­ about the rivers, lakes, and portages at the loaded the trade goods and supplies. In eastern end of the Rainy Lake watershed four days of hard labor the canoes and all than anyone else. He always said Black­ the packs were carried over the nine-mile jack was a good man — honest, straight­ trail that bypassed the many falls and forward, and the cleanest Indian he had rapids in the lower Pigeon River. The long ever seen. I met the old fellow just once, path was open and well packed down, but I can clearly recall his smiling face full since the Verendrye family had cleared all of wrinkles and his small squinty eyes. He the portages on the road to Rainy Lake died in 1942 on the reservation at Sheban- seventeen years before, and the route had dowan Lake in Ontario. been in constant use during the succeed­ When they were trapping together dur­ ing seasons. In spots the mud was deep and ing the fall beaver hunt of 1932, Blackjack there was much grumbling, but at last told Jock the long tale which had been everything was assembled at the upper passed from generation to generation in river, the canoes were gummed, and the his family. This took several evenings party embarked. After the grueHng work around the campfire, for Blackjack spoke on the long portage, the men were glad to in Ojibway and talked slowly, so that Jock be on the water again, and the knowledge could follow and understand. that at the end of the day a keg of high When Jock repeated the tale to me that wine would be given to them added speed night in the shack on Northern Light it to their naturally rapid paddle strokes. sounded like pure fiction, but later we went That evening they unloaded their canoes to work on it, checking names and dates. and turned them over on the shore. All As we went along our interest increased, preparations for the night were made at because the story did seem to Hne up — once, for no more work would be done in a rough sort of way — with the diaries after the spirits were distributed. The lead­ and journals of some of the early travelers er gave a nine-gallon keg to the men and and voyageurs who passed along the bor­ took a mug to his tent for himself. His was der lakes canoe route. the only tent; the men slept in their blan­ Here it is as Blackjack told it, but with kets under the canoes. the addition of a few dates and places, and Louis-Joseph, the bourgeois of the red sometimes names, when Jock and I could beard, as his voyageurs called him, was a figure them out. Blackjack had learned the big man, but quick in his movements and tale from his grandmother, who had learned quick with his temper, too. Few ever it from her grandmother, so it is no wonder crossed him. He started a small fire and that some of the details are blurred and made some porridge of meal and pemmi­ lost. can, and while it heated he drank spar­ ingly of his liquor. He could hear the shouts EARLY IN JULY of the year 1748 a bri­ and songs of his voyageurs getting louder gade of five canoes with thirty French- and louder, but until they were all drunk and Canadian voyageurs approached Grand asleep, he must keep watch. There would, Portage, after a journey of many days he knew, be fighting before the night was across Lake Superior. In command was over, and it would be necessary for him to Louis-Joseph Gaultier, youngest son of the take away the knives of those who became

236 MINNESOTA History overwrought. He wanted no injured men It was sad, he thought, that a man had no who could not work. woman to comfort him when he was de­ As he drank his spirits and ate his por­ pressed. Ah, well, thank God he still had ridge, his thoughts wandered. He had brandy, and he took one more drink, pat­ traveled this route many times — had, in­ ting the half-empty bottle. Then he kicked deed, been with his brother Frangois as out the fire, rolled up in his blanket, and far west as the great mountains beyond the went to sleep. Mandan villages. He was glad to return to The bourgeois allowed his men to sleep this land of lakes after his absence in the late the next morning, and the sun was East, and he looked forward to renevdng nearing the treetops before the brigade got acquaintances along the way and to the under way. It was only a short distance up grand celebration when they reached Fort the river to the next portage which was St. Pierre. His old friend, Wagosh, the Fox, long and muddy. Louis knew the cruel, on Saganaga Lake would be surprised to sobering effect of a carrying strap across see him. Perhaps he could get a new canoe the forehead after a night of drink, and he there if Wagosh's people had one made. It knew that when the men had carried over had been a good trip thus far, he felt. The the pieces and the canoes their steps would liquor warmed him, and he was happy and be far less faltering. Nevertheless, camp relaxed. was made early that night, and though a The noise from the camp was rising, and few of the men heated food, many rolled he could hear Pierre, the leader of the men, up in their blankets and slept immediately. louder and more quarrelsome than the rest. The next day was better, and after mak­ At a sudden burst of shouting, he rose and ing five portages, they camped on the beau­ left his tent. He saw that many of the men tiful Mountain Lake. Here the men built were already asleep, but a few were still five separate fires, and set great brass on their feet, and Pierre stood before them kettles to boiling pemmican and Indian waving a knife around his head and curs­ corn. Each man carried at his belt a wood­ ing wildly. Louis immediately moved in en bowl and a knife. What more did he and demanded the knife. Pierre lurched at need besides a blanket to sit on in the him with a wild swing, which the burgeois canoe and to sleep in at night? A pipe and easily avoided. Catching the voyageur's tobacco, of course — every bit as impor­ wrist, he shook the knife from his grasp, tant as food — and a few beads and span­ and slapped him with his open hand. gles. What could these be for? Aha, what Pierre sat down heavily and began to cry, else? They would soon reach Indian coun­ but Louis rolled the keg over to him and try, would they not, and beautiful women? the trouble was ended. The other men The brigade moved on across lakes and staggered slowly away, and Louis, survey­ over portages. The men often sang, now, ing them, knew that peace and quiet would as they swung their narrow paddles in rule the camp in a short time. short, quick strokes. This pleased Louis. Back at his tent, he set a kettle to heat­ He was always glad when the men started ing, and rummaging around in his pack, a song, because it made him feel that all came up with some tea and a bottle of was well with them. They were good men, brandy, both of which he had been treasur­ he thought — some better, but all good. ing. He made boiling hot tea and drank it Their spirits would remain high, he with brandy, and then he drank the brandy knew, if he could get some fresh meat, and alone, and then he drank the tea alone, and he took up his gun as they embarked on then he mixed them again. All was quiet Rose Lake. Its shallow bays had water and suddenly Louis was melancholy. He lilies, and where there were v^ater Hhes, needed a woman to console him tonight. there might be moose. Silently they. pad-

June 1961 237 died along the north shore with a gentle his pot. Louis carefully saved the hide and breeze in their faces and vdth the low sun even the four hoofs to give Wagosh when nearing the treetops. As they rounded a the brigade reached his village in two more point, every paddler froze in position. The days. steersman at the rear swung the canoe Many sly remarks were passed about the silently in toward a Httle bay where a great night to be spent near this village on the moose was standing in the water near the lake called Saganaga. Louis told them that shore. each man must pay for what he got, the His ugly snout was toward them, but full price agreed upon with the husband or after a moment he seemed satisfied and father, and there were to be no spirits. If went on eating water lily roots. No sooner any man gave drink to the Indians, he had his great head gone down than the would be left behind to winter with them. paddlers, pulling together in one powerful They all knew the rules, but it was best to stroke, sent the canoe farther into the bay. remind them. Again they froze as the head came up, and The sun was low in the sky as they ap­ again they made a single, powerful stroke proached the Chippewa village on the west as the head went down. Louis looked at side of Saganaga. The men sang lustily, and his priming and set himself firmly — a few and many of the Indians came dowoi to the more strokes and he could shoot. Dovsm shore. A few paddled out in canoes to es­ went the huge head. The quick paddle cort the brigade to its campground at the stroke followed, then the freeze, and the old post across the bay. Hardly had a land­ intense gaze of the great, black eyes, now ing been made and the packs assembled plainly visible. Once more, now — just and covered before a messenger arrived, once more. Yes, there it was. Down went inviting Louis to visit the chief. After in­ the ugly snout and the men made another structing Pierre to post a watch over the stroke, but this time, as the canoe steadied, goods, the bourgeois set out in a small Louis' gun spoke with a tremendous roar in Indian canoe. the narrow bay. The smoke came back Louis was greeted wdth great affection in the voyageurs' faces, but all could see by Wagosh and by some of his headmen. that the great beast was down, and a shout The long-stemmed ceremonial pipe was went up — "Frais viande" — fresh meat. brought out, lighted, and passed around, By the time the animal had stopped his each man facing east and taking three thrashings, the canoes had landed, and the quick puffs. When the ceremony was fin­ men were wading into the water to drag ished, the old chief asked polite questions him out and begin the skinning and butch­ about the health and prosperity of the Red ering. There was much excitement, Pierre Beard and his relatives. During his years pointing out proudly how the ball from in the Indian country, Louis had learned Louis' gun had gone straight to the animal's something of the Ojibway language and heart. No one, he boasted, but Louis-Joseph had no trouble understanding the smoothly Gaultier, their own bourgeois, could have flowing words of Wagosh. made such a shot at that distance. After answering in a somewhat faltering That night the men received their por­ manner, the Frenchman brought out pres­ tions of meat, the first they had eaten in ents for the chief, the other headmen, and many days. Most of them were satisfied to their vdves. The women sat in the back­ roast great hunks of it, gorging themselves ground around the edge of the lodge and on the half-raw flesh, but some made stews took no part in the meeting until the gifts from such delicacies as the liver, tongue, were distributed, when there was much nose, heart, and kidney, and one old voya­ chatter among them. All became quiet geur skinned out the two great testicles for again as the old chief spoke. He asked his

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A present-day scene ^fcl: on the shore • 4w**''i'''*'#7£»!Vf f »'• ' '••• * • ^'^ • of Mountain Lake a guest whether there was anything he asked his guest to tell of his trip. This Louis needed. Louis explained that he would like did in some detail, and when he came to to have a new canoe since one of his was the shooting of the moose, there was much in bad condition. The Fox smoked his pipe excitement. He said that he wished the Fox in silence for a moment and then said, yes, to have the hide and the hoofs, which were he had a new canoe which his people had at his camp. Immediately the chief sent just finished, but they had need for it. The messengers to get them, and the others trader suggested that they could easily withdrew, leaving Louis and Wagosh make another for themselves, but the chief alone. replied that good birchbark had been hard The trader opened his pack and took out to find that spring, and he was afraid that a small flask of much reduced high wine, they could make no more canoes that sea­ which he presented to his host. The Veren­ son. Louis thought that with the great wis­ drye family had made it a rule that liquor dom and knowledge of the woods possessed was not to be traded with the Indians, but by the chief and his people, they could find that a small amount might be given to the enough good bark for another canoe. But chiefs as a present. After this, the negotia­ Wagosh was not yet ready to trade, and he tions proceeded easily, and it was soon

June 1961 239 agreed that the new canoe would be Louis and the chief ate first, and when handed over for goods valued at sixty beav­ they had their fill the women ate, and lastly er skins. the younger members of the household. At the conclusion of the trade, Wagosh There was plenty for all in that great fish. expressed great pleasure that Louis had When the leisurely meal was finished, they come to see him again. He suggested that sat and talked and smoked for a time, and since his friend had been long on the jour­ then Louis excused himself to return to his ney, he would send one of his wives to the own camp. It was late twilight, and the Red Beard's tent that night to look after stars were appearing in bold patterns as he his wants. Louis thanked him politely, say­ paddled the small canoe across the bay. ing that he was very kind, but that this His tent was pitched a short distance was too much to offer. The old chief, know­ from the voyageurs' camp. As he Hfted the ing what was in the Frenchman's mind, canoe from the water, a figure disengaged told him that within the year he had been itself from the deeper shadows of the forest sent a young, new wife from the north. At and approached him. The girl spoke to him his age, he feared that she would be child­ quietly, saying that Chief Wagosh, her hus­ less; his friend, he said, would do him a band, had sent her to his tent for the night. great favor if he would accept her. Perhaps Louis at once recognized her as the same Louis would make for him a fine, young one who had brought him the invitation to son who would grow up to be big and the feast and led him to the lodge. He strong and have red hair. asked her if she understood about the The trader replied that under those con­ cleansing ceremony and she said she did ditions he would, of course, be honored to not, but would do as he directed. accept and would do his best to accommo­ Louis went to his tent and got from his date his old friend. He explained, however, pack some of the soap his men made from that he had a custom on occasions of this bear grease and wood ashes. Removing his kind — a cleansing ceremony at the edge clothing, he walked down to the shore. The of the lake — and asked that the new wife girl quickly did likewise and stood before be told of it. Then if she chose not to come, him in the fading Hght, straight and sHm. he said, under no circumstances was she Louis took her hand, and they walked out to be beaten and bound and carried to his into the warm water. He showed her how tent. The old chief answered that this was, to rub the soap on her body, and then how indeed, a strange custom, but that he to wash it off. Gravely she imitated his ac­ would tell his wives and let them decide. tions. Then Louis dived under the water By this time, the messengers had re­ alone and swam with great, splashing turned with the moose hide and hoofs, and strokes far out into the bay. the women were already at work on them. When he returned, exhilarated from his Louis went to look over his new canoe and hard swim, they sat side by side on the to renew his acquaintance with the men sand, letting the warm breeze dry them. and women who had made it. After sun­ He asked whether she liked the cleansing down a quiet Indian girl came to tell him ceremony, and she said she did. However, that Chief Wagosh awaited the Red Beard she was glad to do anything he wished, at his lodge. She led him back and held since she was the dutiful wife of the chief open the skin door for him to enter. At and he had told her to be obedient. In that once he smelled the fish, and there before case, Louis said, she must smile and laugh him on a piece of birchbark was a great and be happy. Then he asked her whether trout that had been baked in clay all day she had helped prepare the great fish for among hot rocks, just the way he liked it the feast. She told him that she had been best. allowed to help, but the work had been in

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THE Hig/i FflZfe on the Pigeon River, near Grand Portage charge of the older wives. She said her earliest to set out for the Rainy River dis­ people had known that he was coming two trict. days before, and Wagosh had sent his most During the first season he had encoun­ expert men out into the big lake to catch tered many difficulties. He did not know the trout. Her reserve seemed to melt away the country well, and the savages, still as she talked, and at last, hand in hand, attached to their French friends, had been they went into Louis' tent. suspicious and antagonistic. Establishing a post on the Rainy River, Finlay had left SOME EIGHTEEN years later, in the a few men there and brought the rest of summer of 1766, another band of French- his brigade out with the furs acquired dur­ Canadian voyageurs hoisted packs and ing the winter. He had disposed of these at canoes at Grand Portage and began the Sault Ste. Marie, where he also secured new long trip to the Rainy River. In command canoes and the trade goods dispatched to of the party was a trader named Finlay, him by his associate in the East. The latter who, like other shrewd Englishmen expe­ had also sent his nephew, Robert, to act as rienced in the fur business, had turned Finlay's clerk and learn the Indian trade. sharp eyes on the great area beyond Lake Finlay had eyed this addition to the party Superior after the Treaty of Paris in 1763 with misgivings. Robert was young — about gave the British possession of Canada. twenty years old, Finlay guessed — with a With financial backing from a Montreal serious, intent manner which the trader merchant, Finlay had been among the found disconcerting at times. The youth

June 1961 241 could often be seen talking with the Having more men than he had brought the voyageurs, trying to learn their strange year before, Finlay was confident he could mixture of old French, Ojibway, and Eng­ force his way through if necessary. Never­ lish, and listening to their songs and stories. theless, he directed that camp be made Though this did not please Finlay, who early and delayed entering the big lake un­ preferred to keep his voyageurs in their til morning. places, he knew it would prove useful in As the brigade approached the Indian handling the large group of men needed village, the travelers were intercepted by a for the return journey. host of small canoes. It was evident that Beyond Grand Portage, the brigade made the trader and his men would not be able its tedious way up streams and across lakes to pass without a fight unless terms were to Height of Land Portage, the great di­ made with the chief. vide between the Lake Superior and Hud­ Finlay went ashore, leaving Robert in son Bay watersheds. Viewing it for the charge of the brigade vwth instructions not first time, the young clerk found this to land unless he heard a pistol shot. The rugged country appealing. He preferred trader met the chief in his lodge and pre­ the quiet intimacy of inland waters to the sented the usual gifts of tobacco, blankets, boisterous waves of Lake Superior and fell knives, and cloth, all of which the young quickly under the spell of the voyageurs' chief accepted. He was not satisfied, how­ songs as they paddled down lake after ever, and demanded rum. Finlay asked lake, set like a string of jewels against the what his people had to trade, and they green velvet of the trees. brought out a few worthless summer furs. It was plain that many people had passed Despite much talk and gesturing, Finlay this way each year when the French trade refused to give rum except in trade, and at was flourishing. Nearly every point of last, after a conference, an Indian girl was prominence along the proper route was brought and offered to him as a wife. The marked by a lob pine. Earlier travelers had trader refused. The girl was then offered prepared these markers by chopping off all as a companion, to be returned when the the branches for a distance of ten or twenty spring brigade came back that way next feet dovsm from the tops of selected tall year. Finlay hesitated; he knew that some trees, leaving only a few branches at the concession was necessary to get his canoes very crown as a sort of plume. The portage through without further trouble. trails were wide and beaten hard by the The chief, sensing his hesitation, quickly tramp of heavily burdened feet, and at the pointed out the girl's good qualities. Look­ ends of many portages large clearings had ing at her carefully for the first time, Finlay been made where old campgrounds could noted with surprise that she had blue eyes be found. But of most interest to Robert and distinctly reddish hair. When he asked were the names and dates carved on the about her, he was told that she was a trees and the occasional mound with a daughter of the old chief and that she marker of birchbark bearing a name, a would be traded to Finlay cheap because date, and often a crude cross. she was not big and strong, and the young The party's first contact with Indians was bucks would not marry her. at a large lake called Saganaga, where it It soon became obvious that the girl was was necessary to pass a village whose in­ quite as anxious to go with Finlay as the habitants were sometimes troublesome. The chief was to get rid of her. She had dressed voyageurs told of a chief friendly to the in her finest clothes, and she showed the French who had Hved there in the old days. trader her sewing and the designs worked But the young chief now in control stopped into her jacket with colored porcupine small brigades of canoes and exacted a toll. quills. Through his half-breed guide, who

242 MINNESOTA Histonj served as interpreter, Finlay told her that way tongue and could not talk with the he was going toward the setting sun to a girl, but he learned, with the help of one far lake and would not be back for many of the voyageurs, that her name was See- moons. She said she would go. He asked gwin-kee-zhig, which meant "spring sky." what work she could do, and she said she He told her his name and taught her to say could snare rabbits and deer and make it. This pleased her, and she wanted to clothes and moccasins for both summer and know other English words. She seemed vnnter. She said she was strong and could happy to be with Robert, whom she ac­ carry water and chop wood and that the cepted as her equal. reason the young bucks would not marry At the next large lake, called Basswood, her was because she would not please them Finlay's party had to pass another Chip­ and give them their way with her. Finlay pewa village. Here the trader had met with reluctantly agreed to take her in exchange his greatest diflBculty the previous year. His for two kegs of well-watered liquor. small brigade of three canoes had been in­ Whether the girl could earn her keep or tercepted and he had been permitted to not, Finlay thought it was worth the price proceed only after the Indians had confis­ to get under way again without further cated one canoe and all the goods it con­ delay. tained. This time he planned to reach the village IT SOON became apparent that he had early in the day to avoid camping in the acquired no ordinary squaw. At the camp area. He knew that scouts had been watch­ that evening the guide brought the girl to ing the brigade ever since it had entered Finlay, saying that she wanted something the lake, and he was not surprised to find called "savon." Robert, listening, said that a large group of canoes waiting behind the meant soap. What could she know about point of an island. The Indians escorted soap? Through the guide, she repHed that the brigade toward the village, and their her mother had told her how white men ready weapons gave ample warning of the greased themselves with it and then went reception he could expect. Finlay scattered into the lake and she wished to do as the his canoes and told his men to load and white people did. Finlay explained that prime their guns. Seeing this, the Indians they had no soap, but that the men would moved off to a more respectful distance; make some when they reached their post. some fitted arrows to their bows, and others He asked who her father was and she said brought out guns and made threatening the great chief Wagosh, but that she was gestures. really the daughter of La Verendrye of the Finlay explained to Robert that he, with red beard, the son of the white father who three men and the interpreter, would go first brought her people knives of iron and ashore to visit the chief, but that nothing pots of copper. By her voice and every serious would happen until he started to movement she made it plain that she was leave the chief's lodge. At that point, if proud of her blood and considered herself the negotiations had not reached a satis­ better than all Indians and most whites. factory settlement, trouble might start. Finlay was amused by her haughty attitude Robert and the men were not to land unless toward the voyageurs and was not much Finlay fired his pistol, in which case they surprised when she refused to ride in any must be prepared for a fight. He expected canoe but his. Since the leader's canoe was no serious trouble and would do his best to heavily loaded, however, she agreed to ride prevent it, since he wanted these Indians wdth Robert, after learning that he was the to bring the results of their fall fur hunt to nephew of a Montreal merchant. him at his post on Rainy River. The young clerk knew little of the Ojib­ When Finlay reached shore he found the

June 1961 243 chief awaiting him with several of his lead­ ing warriors. The trader smoked with them and then distributed presents, stating that he was in a hurry but could not pass with­ out stopping to greet the great chief of the village. His host said they were to have a feast and Finlay must stay. Although the Englishman repeated that he must hurry Lac la Croix on, the chief continued to insist that Finlay land his big canoes and spend the night. This was the way trouble had started the previous summer and the trader did not propose to let it happen again. It was ob­ vious, however, that the chief was not to be bought off with a few presents; he wanted a share of the freight in the big canoes. The Indians crowded around the entrance to the lodge carrying their weapons, and Fin­ lay knew he must talk fast to get his goods through without a battle. THE BORDER LAKES He told the chief he was sorry he could not stay for the feast, but must hurry on to Horse Portage where a guide from Rainy River was awaiting him. He said the Great that unless the Great White Father received White Father at Michilimackinac was very a dispatch from him by the time of the new angry at the taking of the canoe and goods moon saying that the Indians had made no the year before — that Finlay had only trouble, he would send the soldiers. After with great difficulty restrained him from hearing the report his new guide would sending soldiers wdth their big guns and bring him from the Rainy River post, Finlay war canoes to kill the people and burn the would send back a messenger to the Great village. Finlay said he had explained that White Father to tell him how the Indians the chief and his people were not really had treated the brigade. If the chief de­ bad Indians and had persuaded the Great layed him or interfered with the passage White Father to give them another chance of the messenger, then the soldiers would to prove their good faith. be on their way, and no order from the This argument evidently impressed the Great White Father could reach them to chief, who had heard of the great guns that turn them back. belched fire and smoke and could kill many Finlay could see that this story had a men with a single shot. Nevertheless, he strong effect. Pushing his advantage, he repeated that Finlay must stay the night arose to depart with his men, telling the and enjoy the feast. chief to come to the trade canoe, where he The situation was tense, and the trader would give him a keg of rum for the feast did some hard thinking. If he stayed, he that evening. The chief thought he should knew he would be robbed; ff he refused, it have three kegs, and they agreed on two. would mean a fight and bloodshed and per­ While the kegs were being transferred haps an end to his trading activities in the to the Indian canoe, the chief watched area. He had to act quickly, decisively, and suspiciously, and at last told Finlay he was with great assurance. Pressing his threats sending some of his braves along to Horse of reprisal still further, he told the chief Portage to escort the messenger on his re-

244 MINNESOTA Histovy hoax. He would now make up some impor­ tant-looking dispatches and send Crooked Nose, the first guide, back with them. But here an unexpected diflBculty developed: Crooked Nose refused to go. He said, how­ ever, that Seegwin had told him she knew the route perfectly and wanted to return to her people. When Finlay asked Seegwin if this were true, she said yes. She told him gravely that she knew the route and would take the messenger back if the messenger were Robert, but she would take no one else. On this point she remained firm, and as there seemed to be no alternative, Finlay went to tell the clerk that he was to make the journey. Seegwin and Red Eye con­ tinued to talk earnestly together. Robert was surprised and more than a httle disappointed at the news, but he recognized at once the importance of carry­ ing the plan through. If he were lucky, he might find a guide at Grand Portage to bring him back, but the chance was slim turn. Finlay readily agreed, for it had that he could rejoin Finlay or reach the occurred to him that the trick might be Rainy River post that season. used again, and sending back one of his By the time the sky was light the next men seemed a small price for convincing morning, Seegwin was preparing the packs the chief and keeping up the bluff. for the return trip. She seemed much inter­ ested in their contents, personally checking WITH THE CHIPPEWA braves leading everything, rejecting this, including that, the way, the brigade resumed its journey, with swift and sure decision. When all was to the reHef of all except Seegwdn. Having ready the two groups separated — Robert, heard about the conversation between Fin­ Seegwin, and Crooked Nose, who would lay and the chief, she knew one of the men accompany them as far as Basswood, turn­ would be sent back from Horse Portage. It ing their small Indian canoe toward the seemed certain to her that Robert would be east, and Finlay with the six trade canoes the messenger. Who else could be trusted continuing west. With a casual wave of the with such an important mission and who hand, Robert began a journey that would else would be permitted to speak to the take him he knew not where — perhaps Great White Father? The prospect of being to Grand Portage, perhaps all the way to separated from Robert distressed her, and Michilimackinac. as the afternoon passed, she become silent When the Httle group reached the Indian and thoughtful. village on Basswood Lake, Robert showed Near sunset the party reached Horse the chief the papers with their large wax Portage, and Finlay was pleased to find Red seals, saying he must deliver them as quick­ Eye, his old and trusted guide, awaiting ly as possible to the Great White Father. him. They greeted each other warmly; The chief replied that to make sure the Finlay explained the situation and outlined message was not delayed he would send his to Red Eye his plan for maintaining the braves along to see the Englishman safely

June 1961 245 A modern voyageur at Horse Portage

over the next portage. Robert was not de­ he and Seegwin unloaded the canoe. Under ceived by this apparent concern for his their inspection, he felt clumsy as he lifted speedy and successful journey, and as he the bark craft to his shoulders and started embarked with Seegwin and the three along the rocky portage. Seegwin went Chippewa escorts he knew he was being ahead dowTi the trail carrying both packs watched rather than assisted. and stood waiting for him at the end with­ The guide had remained at the village, out the slightest sign of fatigue, although and Robert was dubious at the prospect of her load had been twice as heavy as his. paddling a canoe all the way to Saganaga As he put the canoe in the water again, he with only a young girl to help. He was not saw the three savages watching from some an expert paddler, but when he found that high rocks, and he wondered how far they Seegwin had arranged the packs so he would accompany him. would paddle in the bow, his relief was Robert and Seegwin started up Birch tinged with resentment. To his surprise, Lake, though the sun was aheady below the however, the little canoe kept pace easily horizon and the sky was gradually darken­ with that of the Indians leading them, ing. Robert was thinking about camp and seeming to skim over the surface of the food, but Seegwdn headed through the lake almost of its own accord. twisting, turning channel of the lake with a Before the sun reached the treetops, they sureness that convinced him she knew the entered the little bay leading to the portage. route. The stars were shining brightly be­ Robert expected their escorts to turn back fore they stopped on a little island. at this point, but they watched silently as Seegwin chose a secluded camp site

246 MINNESOTA History among the trees, but when Robert started This morning Seegwin took the forward to put up the Httle shelter tent, she stopped paddHng position and left the stern to Rob­ him. Neither would she let him make a fire, ert. He was glad of the change, but won­ but simply sHced off pieces of pemmican dered why it had been made. The workings for each of them to eat cold. He was puz­ of the girl's mind were a closed book to zled, but when the girl disappeared among him, though watching her, he felt sure that the bushes with her blanket, he thought he she had a reason for everything she did. understood, and amusement mingled with As they moved away from the island, he anger filled him. She need not worry that was conscious of a quickened paddle stroke, he would bother her. He was no half-savage and again he felt resentment swelling up in voyageur; the last thing he would do was him. He had not set a fast enough stroke go to bed with a squaw. Rolling up in his the day before — that was the key to the blanket, he soon slept. changed positions. But he could see no He awakened the next morning with the necessity for speed. sun in his face and Seegwdn shaking him. A light breeze helped them on their way, She motioned for him to keep silent and led and soon they reached the next portage. At him across the island to some brush on the the landing place, Seegwin seemed much opposite shore. When she parted the interested in the shore. Robert could see bushes, he saw coming down the lake from marks in the sand where two canoes had the east the three Indians they had left the recently been drawn up. One could be that night before at the portage. Watching them, of the three Indians who had been follow­ he realized that he and Seegwin had been ing them, but what was the other? He ques­ followed to see that they were traveling in tioned Seegwin, but she did not seem to the right direction. The Indians had ap­ understand and continued to examine the parently passed the island some time earlier ground carefully as they carried over. They and were now returning toward their vil­ made the portage in one trip and Robert lage. As the canoe approached, its occu­ prepared to smoke a pipe. But Seegwin pants stopped paddling and began to argue, hurried him on, and soon they were pad­ pointing this way and that, toward the dling up Carp Lake. portage, toward the island, and toward the He recalled a series of rough portages village. Finally one who talked louder than here and was surprised when Seegwin in­ the others pointed westward, and all then dicated they should turn to the left into a began to paddle down the lake again. Seeg- narrow channel. They were going too much win's eyes were sparkling as she turned to toward the north, he thought. At the end Robert and whispered the word, "Good." of the twisting inlet, they entered a still They sat quietly until the canoe rounded a smaller channel, and there, quite plainly, distant point and disappeared. was a portage, of which Robert had no Robert sensed that Seegwin had been recollection. It was short, being little more watching from the hiding place for hours than a lift-over, and they were soon pad­ to learn whether they were being followed. dling across a small lake or pond that he But what was the purpose of this secrecy? was sure he had never seen before. He tried to make her understand his ques­ Now, for the first time, Seegwin showed tion, but she simply smiled at him and said, indecision. They paddled along the far "No." Her vocabulary seemed to consist of shore, entering every little bay and inlet "yes," "no," and "good." As they prepared until she found what she was looking for. to leave, Robert noticed that the canoe was When they disembarked, Robert could see not where he had left it the night before; only the faintest trace of a portage, and marks on the shore indicated it had been pointing to it, he shook his head. Seegwin, put back into the water. however, laughed at his quizzical expres-

June 1961 247 sion and motioned for him to take up the reload the canoe. She seemed greatly canoe. When he shook his head, she fitted pleased as they started paddling, and when her tumpline, lifted the two packs, and they neared the landing she pointed out to started down the faint trail. him three flat rocks piled on one another. Having no choice, Robert hoisted the Robert knew this was the Chippewa port­ canoe to his shoulders and followed, forc­ age sign, which meant they were on a route ing his way awkwardly through the brush of some kind. along the overgrown path. It was hard, hot As soon as they had drawn up the canoe work swinging the canoe this way and that on a narrow beach, Seegwin knelt in the between the trees. While he reasoned smooth sand and began making marks with that Seegwin was probably taking what she a stick. As Robert squatted beside her, he thought to be a short cut, he had nearly recognized the fines as a map. She pointed decided to put dowm the canoe and demand out the Z shape of Basswood Lake and then an explanation when he heard her call from drew two routes, one to the east toward a short distance ahead — "Robar!" She had Saganaga, and the other going north and never before spoken his name, and despite then turning back toward the west. She his annoyance he was forced to smile at her talked constantly as she drew, explaining accent. He soon reached her, standing on everything to Robert in rapid Ojibway, of the shore of a small, clear lake. which he understood scarcely a word. After putting down the canoe, he took Pointing to him and then to herself, she her firmly by the shoulders, looked down pushed two little twigs into the sand at a into her smiling face, and spoke seriously. spot on the second route, which evidently Though she could not follow his words, hs marked their present location. Then pointing hoped to make her understand something to Basswood, she drew the route that Finlay through his tone and gestures. He told her was taking westward toward Lac la Croix. that he would go no further until he knew Finally she traced in the sand a line from where she intended to lead him. He sus­ the two twigs, leading around north of Bass- pected, he said, that she had thrown the wood and eventually joining Finlay's route. Indians off their trail by paddling to the Gradually it dawned on Robert that they portage at night and making signs to indi­ were going to try to rejoin Finlay. She had cate the two of them had already crossed. taken him toward Saganaga only far enough He could not understand the reason for this to convince the Indians that the messenger nor the need for haste. She must somehow was on his way east toward Grand Portage explain to him. "You-tell-me," he concluded, and had then turned off on a route that pointing to her mouth, and then to his ear. circled back to the north and west. As she Seegwin watched every movement of his finished, a low whistle escaped him. She eyes and lips, and when he had finished, had never intended to return to her own she reached up, and with her finger tips, village. She must have persuaded Crooked smoothed out the frown on his forehead. Nose not to go, then planned all this with Robert backed away and shook his head in Red Eye. And Finlay—did he know? exasperation. She pointed across the lake Robert recalled the parting words of the to a little sandy beach, nodding her head trader, who said that if Robert should find up and down and saying, "Yes, yes." Then, a way to rejoin the brigade, he must at all seeing his frown gather again, she lifted costs avoid being seen. Finlay must have the kettle out of the canoe and hung it on suspected. A feehng of elation bubbled up a stick, at the same time pointing once more in Robert, and reaching out, he grasped to the other side of the lake. Seegwin's hand. Robert understood that she wanted to She had been watching him closely with camp there, and grudgingly he prepared to a look that was earnest, almost fearful.

248 MINNESOTA History DAWN on a lake in the border country

When he took her hand, her whole face and twdsted, trying to avoid touching her lighted up. Robert, looking dowm into her blanket. Why did she have to be so damned eyes, was suddenly filled with embarrass­ clean? If she had been dirty and smelly he ment. He stood up quickly and walked could have slept. But Seegwin was not a away, not seeing the look of pain his action common squaw. Her father was the son of caused. La Verendrye, a great Frenchman. She was They built a small fire that evening and almost white — half white, anyway. At last, cooked a meal of Indian corn with pemmi­ unable to lie there and ignore her any can and flour. It tasted good to Robert, who longer, he took up his blanket and moved had eaten no hot food for two days. He was down to the beach, where he slept on the relaxed and happy as he smoked his pipe warm sand by the camp-fire. and watched the twilight crowd in on the dying campfire. Whether or not they caught IN THE MORNING he was awakened by up with Finlay's brigade, he was confident a light touch and opened his eyes to see they would find their way to the Rainy Seegwin smihng at him. She pointed to the River post, and he would winter in the pot that was already steaming over the fire. woods after all. The sun was just rising as they finished The evening was warm and quiet, and as eating, and by the time the tent was down he sauntered down to the little beach for and the packs loaded, it was light enough a swim, he saw a dimly silhouetted figure to see the old marks along the portage trail. standing in the shallow water. Quickly he Seegwin, as usual, took the packs, and turned off into the woods, making his way Robert, shouldering the canoe, followed around the point to another bay. When he her into the woods. returned to camp Seegwin was aheady Their journey that day covered a series rolled up in her blanket, asleep, and he of portages, interrupted only briefly by crawled into his own as quietly as possible. short trips through small lakes and streams The little tent was crowded and intimate, barely deep enough to float the canoe. Rob­ and her nearness bothered him. He turned ert often wondered how Seegwdn found

June 1961 249 the way. She seemed to locate the piled Eye interpreting. A few things still puz­ stones marking the portages with little or no zled Robert. Had Seegwin ever passed searching. That night they camped on the along the route north of Basswood before? shore of a larger lake. With Seegwin's sand No, she had not, was the answer, but she map in mind, Robert felt they must have had been back and forth many times be­ made considerable progress and should tween Saganaga and Lac la Croix, where now be nearly north of the Indian village the people of her village often wintered. on Basswood. She had known there was a northern route, When they had finished eating, Robert and Red Eye had traveled over most of it. gummed the leaks in the canoe. His patches He had told her where to turn off and how were not skillful, but they seemed effective. to find the first few portages. Robert Seegwin was busy gathering great armloads thought they must have crossed at least of balsam boughs for more comfortable thirty portages. How did she find them all? sleeping, and he could smell their clean When he asked, she simply smiled and said fragrance as he approached the tent. Enter­ yes. ing, he saw she had carpeted the small He also wanted to know who had sug­ space with feathery boughs, and this time gested they follow the old canoe route and there was to be no question. His blanket rejoin the brigade. After some rapid words was below and hers was on the top. with Seegwin, the guide said — rather re­ Two days and many portages later the luctantly, Robert thought — that it had pair reached Lac la Croix. They landed at been his idea. Why, then, Robert asked, a small island on the southwest shore, and had he been chosen as the messenger? Red there, on a smooth rock, Seegwin found two Eye repHed wdth a shrug that it was Fin­ stones piled together with a poplar twig lay's decision, but watching Seegwin, wedged between. She looked the twig over Robert saw her eyes sparkling. carefully, examined the leaves, and then Any question Robert had about the fu­ held up two fingers, one bent in the mid­ ture of his relationship with the girl was dle. When she pointed dowm the lake settled that night when he found that she to the west, Robert understood that Finlay's had moved into his tent. When, with some brigade was a day and a half ahead of embarrassment, he spoke of it to Finlay, them. He and the girl had completely cir­ the trader chuckled and observed that in cled Basswood Lake and were now back on the wilderness marriage was usually a sim­ the usual canoe route to Rainy River. ple matter. Now that they were so close to the brigade, there seemed no reason to hurry, ALL TOO SOON, it seemed to Robert, the and Robert and Seegwdn slowed their pad­ long days of paddling were over and the dle strokes. Both felt reluctant to give up party reached Finlay's fort on Rainy River. the privacy of their new-found companion­ With the arrival of the brigade there were ship, and Robert shrank from meeting Fin­ some forty whites at the post, and in the lay's quizzical look and the voyageurs' sly four or five weeks remaining before frost comments. Next morning they fingered in they were kept busy dispensing trade camp. That day they again paddled slowly, goods, completing work on the stockade, crossing portages at a leisurely pace, and it and securing a supply of food for the win­ was not until the following afternoon, short­ ter. As the days passed, Finlay turned his ly before sundown, that they overtook the attention to the latter tasks, leaving much of brigade. the actual trading to Robert. In camp that evening there was much One of the larger buildings had been di­ talk between Robert and Finlay and later vided by a great double fireplace into between Robert and Seegwin, with Red two rooms, one for the trade goods and the

250 MINNESOTA History other serving as living quarters for the Many plans and dreams were talked over trader and his clerk. To Robert's surprise in the weeks that followed, and Seegwin Seegwin did not hesitate to enter this dwell­ constantly questioned Robert about how ing, which was strange and new to her. She white women took care of their babies. took up the tasks of housekeeping and Young Robert would be white Hke his mastered them with surprising speed, father and must be treated as white chil­ quickly adapting to the white man's ways. dren were. Robert was at first appalled by She dehghted in the stone fireplace, the the prospect of having a family, but it brass kettles, the iron knives, the steel seemed so simple and easy to Seegwin that needles — and the soap. This she used he came to accept it in much the same lavishly, washing everything about the manner. place. She made a large birchbark tub in With spring the rains came and the open which she bathed frequently and would water below the falls in the river gradually have bathed Robert and Finlay also had lengthened. Robert and Finlay prepared for they allowed it. She was soon able to cook the collection and delivery of their furs and to the Englishmen's liking, and they were Robert reluctantly decided that he would grateful at the end of long and often ex­ not go to Sault Ste. Marie with Finlay, but hausting days to find her before the open would stay at the fort with Seegwin. The fire, slowly turning a leg of venison or a long trip might be too much for her, and goose on the spit. he would not leave her alone. Finlay scoffed The girl was a strange creature — half at this, but said that if Robert did not wild, half tame, and entirely unpredictable. accompany the brigade, he could go west In the fort or at the nearby Chippewa vil­ to investigate the possibilities for building lage she was an Indian, dressing and talking a new post. It was decided that Robert like the others, but in their house with only would leave with five men in two light Robert and Finlay present, she made every canoes as soon as the ice was gone. The effort to act as she believed white women expedition would return in time to report did. She was self-reliant and independent, to Finlay before the trader left for Grand yet sensitive to Robert's every mood and Portage. whim. When Seegwin heard of the plan, she The hours she loved best were those they said she would go with Robert but he re­ spent in the evenings before the great fire­ fused to take her. They would be traveling place. There Robert taught her English fast, he said, and he would be gone scarcely words and phrases, and with each new ex­ a month. She accepted his decision in si­ pression she mastered, the barrier that sepa­ lence, but he could see the pain in her eyes. rated her thoughts from his became less. He tried to comfort her by saying that like She had so many things to say and so few a white lady, she must be very careful of words to say them. During the day, when the little one who was expected to come she was alone, she would practice what she in July, "the moon when the birds cast their had learned, talking to herself by the hour. feathers." One winter evening Seegwin told Robert As the hour for Robert's departure ap­ in her faltering English that she was going proached, Seegwin became more and more to give him a son. She was happy because depressed, and at last he found her he would be like his father, big and strong, crouched in a corner, moaning in a weird wise and brave. Would he not have the manner. He could neither comfort nor quiet blood of the first Frenchman and one of the her. When his canoe had vanished from earliest Englishmen to come among her peo­ sight down the river, she refused to return ple? He would be a great hunter and trader to the fort, and went to the Indian village. and a leader of men, both red and white. Only occasionally did she search out Finlay

June 1961 251 in the vain hope that he had some word of and her baby to Robert's uncle, but would Robert. she go? And how would the Montreal Preparations for the long trip to Sault trader react to that arrangement? He sent Ste. Marie kept the trader occupied, and immediately for the girl, dreading the mo­ he had given little thought to the expedi­ ment of telling her. His messenger returned, tion, when one morning a shout went up however, with the news that she had left from the river. Hastening to the landing, the village two days before without a word he saw one canoe approaching and was in to anyone. time to catch the shouted news of disaster. Despite the mishap, the work of the post The other canoe had been lost in the great went on. The packs were made up, the rapids of the Winnipeg River. One man had canoes repaired, and the men allotted their been rescued, but Robert and the Indian tasks, five to remain at the fort and the rest guide were carried under the cold torrent to go with Finlay. The time for departure and could not be found. approached and there was still no sign of It was a sad blow to Finlay; he had be­ Seegwdn, so Finlay sent word to the village come attached to his young assistant. And that ff she returned and did not choose to what now of Seegwin? He might send her stay with the Indians, she would be cared

SAGANAGA Lake near the end of the Gunffint Trail

MINNESOTA History for at the fort. When the canoes were gave chase in a small canoe. When the loaded and ready to depart, the girl quiet­ fugitives reached the island, one of the ly appeared and took a place in one of Sioux, who carried a gun, shot the old man. them. In the long trip across Rainy Lake, Seegwdn seized the old man's gun and slew through Lac la Croix, and into Basswood, the warrior, who went overboard, taking his she hardly spoke a word. gun with him. The other Sioux, being un­ Finlay stopped the brigade at the Indian armed, fled, leaving the girl and the old village on Saganaga and was not surprised woman safe on the island. The wife refused to see Seegwin disappear among the lodges. to leave her dying husband, but Seegwin Knowing the trader carried no rum or trade with her baby took the canoe and disap­ goods on his return trip to Lake Superior peared around the island. Finlay could learn the chief made no trouble, and Finlay no more. smoked a pipe with him, explaining about Seegwin, however, had safely worked her Seegwin and telling what had happened to way through the inner channel to the north­ Robert. He left payment on account of her east arm of Saganaga, where she left the marriage and also for her care until he canoe and traveled far through the deep returned, when he hoped she and her new woods to the village of her mother's family. baby would again go to the Rainy River There she stayed and raised her son, who fort with him. Her child would be almost became a great and honored chief among white and he intended to see that it was his people. brought up and educated as Robert would have desired. WHEN JOCK told me this story in 1946, But this was not to be. When, late in Au­ there seemed no reason to doubt it or to gust, Finlay and his brigade again reached believe it. We knew, of course, that the La Saganaga, they found the village in ruins. Verendrye brigade came up the Pigeon It had been burned out, and the place was River route into the north country in 1731 deserted, except for a few old women. and that the father and his four sons were From one of them Finlay learned of a raid active in the fur trade beyond Rainy Lake by the Sioux a few weeks before. Early one until 1744, when their trading permit was morning, she said, many canoes and war­ cancelled and given to Nicolas-Joseph de riors had rounded the point. They had Noyelles. In 1747, the younger Verendryes rushed on the village before the Chippewa were back in the border region, trading were able to defend themselves, murdering with the Indians there and to the west until or carrying away with them all who had the death of their father in December, 1749. not fled. The youngest was named Louis-Joseph, and Finlay inquired about Seegwin and was according to surviving records, he spent told that she and her newborn boy-child the winter of 1747-48 in the East, leaving had escaped. She had crossed the point by Montreal in June, 1748, on a trip to the Far a hidden trail through the woods. On the West.2 far side she joined an old woman and her When Alexander Henry, the elder, passed husband, who were about to flee in a canoe up the Pigeon River route and through the that lay hidden under the bank. They had border lakes in 1775, he mentioned in his nearly reached the big island when they diary a Chippewa village on Saganaga that, were observed by two Sioux warriors who some time before, had been raided and burned by the Sioux.^ He noted further that ""NeUis M. Crouse, La Verendrye: Fur Trader the Chippewa on Saganaga had made much and Explorer, 192-205 (Ithaca, New York, 1956). trouble for the early English traders who 'Alexander Henry, Travels and Adventures in passed that way, demanding "gifts" of Canada and the Indian Territories, 238 (Boston, liquor and other articles from them to as- 1901).

June 1961 253 sure safe-conduct. English traders, how­ had followed Seegwin's secret canoe route ever, do not seem to have used that route from one end to the other; he wanted to until about 1765, a few years after the take Jock over it to prove that it was there. Treaty of Paris. Thus the Sioux raid must Jock never went, but from the map it looks have occurred somewhere about the year possible, and it is certain that the Indians 1770. According to Blackjack, Seegwin's had portages all through that country. child was his grandmother's great grand­ One summer afternoon in 1950 a swim­ father, and if Blackjack was sixty in 1940, mer wearing a diving mask retrieved an old the dates and generations would nearly gun from the bottom of Saganaga, some check. sixty feet off the point of Jock's Island. Ly­ The identities of the trader here called ing in about twenty feet of water, it had Finlay and of his young clerk seem almost rusted, of course, but it was all in one piece, impossible to trace. According to Benjamin including the wooden stock. It was a muz­ and Joseph Frobisher, writing in 1784, "The zle-loader, a percussion lock, with a brass first adventurer went from Michilimakinak scroll dragon of the type that appears on in the year 1765." He was stopped and his early guns used in the Indian trade by the canoes plundered by Indians in the Rainy Hudson's Bay Company. Of course it might Lake region. The following year he "met have been dropped into the lake in any with the same bad Fortune'' and again number of ways, but Jock and I like to think failed to get much farther than Rainy Lake. that it belonged to the Sioux shot by Seeg­ Another attempt in 1767 was more success­ win when she was escaping with her young ful, and he penetrated beyond Lake Winni­ son, the great, great, great grandfather of peg.* This man is unnamed, but according Blackjack. to Hudson's Bay Company records, the first English trader to reach the Saskatchewan ^W. Stewart Wallace, ed., Documents Relating by way of the Grand Portage route was to the North West Company, 70 (Toronto, 1934). James Finlay, or Finley, who wintered there ^ W. Stewart WaUace, The Pedlars from Quebec in 1768-69 at a post later known as Finlay's and Other Papers on the Nor'Westers, 4-9 (Toronto, House. There is evidence, however, that 1954). several independent "pedlars" from Canada THE PAINTING on page 235 is reproduced — both French and English — had pene­ through the courtesy of the St. Louis County His­ torical Society. The photographs on pages 239, 241, trated deep into the fur country beyond the 246, and 249 are by Donald C. Holmquist, and the border lakes at the same time or even one on page 252 is from the Minnesota department earlier.^ of business development. The picture of the gun shown below is owned by Mr. Davis. Theresa Blackjack said that as a young man he Haynes drew the map on pages 244—245.

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