International Research Journal of Management Sociology & Humanities
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International Research Journal of Management Sociology & Humanities ISSN 2277 – 9809 (online) ISSN 2348 - 9359 (Print) An Internationally Indexed Peer Reviewed & Refereed Journal Shri Param Hans Education & Research Foundation Trust www.IRJMSH.com www.SPHERT.org Published by iSaRa Solutions IRJMSH Vol 8 Issue 7 [Year 2017] ISSN 2277 – 9809 (0nline) 2348–9359 (Print) Kullu handloom Industry: An Overview Dr. Jagbir Singh Assistant Professor, Satyawati College, (University of Delhi) Ashok Vihar, Delhi-110052 Email: [email protected] Introduction Handloom weaving is the traditional art and craft of the Himachali people of Kullu region who have inherited this rich skill from their ancestors and they have been following this linage from the ancient times to the modern era. It provides livelihood to millions of weavers and craftsperson. In beginning, this tradition of preparing a wide range of handloom and handicraft products was originated to satisfy the demand of local people but gradually it lead to commercialization. Besides following the traditions and skills of their ancestors, they have made some changes in the designs and motifs according to the needs of the modern buyers. The exquisite handloom items of Kullu are a glory for the state of Himachal Pradesh. This industry is the backbone of the economic structure of the region. Most of the local inhabitants of Kullu are engaged in the traditional occupation of weaving and spinning woolen garments. The fine quality and harmonious color combination of the shawls of Kullu is a testimony to the enriched art and craft of the region. The beautifully woven Kullu caps bear designs from the latest in the world of fashion. The colorful and attractive woolen wear has an internationally acclaimed status. One cannot resist oneself to be thrilled by the awesome products of the small and medium scale cottage industries of Kullu. Handloom items The artisans of Kullu valley preserve a rich heritage of handlooms and handicrafts. There is an amazing range of beautiful handloom and handicraft products in Kullu these include shawls, caps, borders, pattoo, muffler, patti, thobi, numdha, gudma, hand knit woolens, etc. Shawls: A shawl is a light woolen fabric measuring 1 x 2 meters. It is usually draped around and over the chest and shoulders by women. Shawls, worn by men are known as Loi or Chaddar. Usually, Merino Wool, Angora Wool, Pashmina Wool, local sheep wool or a combination of any of these yarns is used to weave the shawls. The elaborate designs Patterns of Kullu Shawls bear a strong Central Asian influence having a symbolic and religious implication. Basic colours used for Kinnauri shawls are red, orange, pink, blue, green, yellow, black and white for patterns. White, black and natural grays or brown International Research Journal of Management Sociology & Humanity ( IRJMSH ) Page 264 www.irjmsh.com IRJMSH Vol 8 Issue 7 [Year 2017] ISSN 2277 – 9809 (0nline) 2348–9359 (Print) colours are used as the base. White colour stands for water, yellow stands for earth, red for fire, green for air and blue for aether. But in the present times keeping in mind the customer demand, these bright colours are being replaced gradually by pastel colours. Besides geometrical designs, the shawls are also woven in floral designs, which may run all over, on the corners or on the borders only. Kullu Shawls has the most important place among all the handloom items of Kullu. Valley also offers Kinnauri shawls, apart from the mainly produced Kullu shawls. The artistic hand-woven woolen shawls of the Kinnaur Valley are truly unique and believed to be centuries old. They are known for their elegant look, brilliant traditional patterns, quality and reasonable cost in the world. They have an important position in the economy of the valley. Twenty to twenty thousand people are partially and about ten thousand people fully earn their livelihood from the industry. Price of shawls depends upon the quality of wool and the pattern. It ranges from Rs. 100 to Rs. 12000. The handloom shawls are expensive as compared to those made on the power loom. History of Kullu Shawls Earlier people of the valley were out of touch from industrialized regions due to lack of transportation facilities and therefore unable to get the clothes. The cold climate prevalent is suitable for sheep and goat rearing, which also fulfills the necessity for woolens. Initially the people of Kullu used to weave Patti, 18" to 20'' or 22'' wide, having an appropriate length. They wove it to cover their body and protecting themselves of severe cold. Men wove Patti for coats and pyjamas and women used it as Pattus. Until 1936 pattus were made on the pitloom, but because of British influence, after that people started using handlooms. In early1940, weavers from Bushehar (Rampur, Shimla) came to the valley and their craft influenced the weaving style of the Kullu Valley and the trend of patterned handloom came into existence. The weavers of Bushehar were acquainted with the geometrical designs, which they successfully used on Pattus. Indian film star Devika Rani came to Kullu in 1942. She got impressed with the looms and on her request Sh. Sheru Ram of Banontar village weaved the earliest urban size shawl (72" x 36"). This inspired Pt. Urvi Dhar, who started manufacturing shawls commercially. In 1957 Kullu Shawl Improvement Center opened up in the valley to invent new designs and make the Kullu shawls popular in Indian market. Pattoo: Pattu is the traditional dress of the local women folk of district Kullu. It looks like a shawl but is thicker, heavier and longer. It is available in sizes of 2.80 x 1.40 meters and 3 x 1.50 m. This woolen fabric is woven in different colors and designs. It is thicker and heavier than shawl and the colors used are fast and bright. Pattu is worn over the clothes like a saree with a difference that instead of taking the end to only one International Research Journal of Management Sociology & Humanity ( IRJMSH ) Page 265 www.irjmsh.com IRJMSH Vol 8 Issue 7 [Year 2017] ISSN 2277 – 9809 (0nline) 2348–9359 (Print) shoulder, they pin both ends of it just below the shoulders on the front side with ‘bumni’ (local silver broaches), joined with a long ornamental chain. Pattoo is tied around the waist with a piece of cloth called gachchi (belt). Basically women of Kullu use pattu as their daily wear as it is a very comfortable dress, which allows them to do their daily chores besides keeping them warm. The cost of a pattu depends upon the design, color combination and quality of wool. Muffler: It is a woollen artifice of handicraft worn around neck. Pashmina, Merino or Angora wool is used to weave it. Different colours of threads are used to weave it. Shawls and mufflers are weaved through the same process but the smaller looms are used for mufflers. Gents mufflers measure 1.70 meters x 0.30 m, while ladies mufflers 2 Mtr. x 0.40 Mtr. Mufflers were started being woven in the valley in 1940’s. Mufflers can be bought from Rs. 50 to Rs. 2500 or maybe more according to the quality of wool and pattern. Generally, mufflers made of Pashmina with Kinnauri designs are costly. Loi : It is gent’s shawl. Local people know it as Chaddar. It is clad around and above the shoulders and is commonly made of mill- spun textile and occasionally of hand spun wool. It is bigger in size from 1.15 x 2.30 m to 1.40 x 2.80 m. Loi is woven with light woollen fabric. It is usually plain or with a narrow border at the ends. Brown, gray and white shades are generally available in lois. Pashmina lois are the costliest ones. Borders: Borders are traditional colored long stripes woven on tiny handlooms by local weavers. Almost all patterns of shawls can be applied on the borders. Initially borders were used for caps only, but now they are being used in the decoration of other handlooms and handicraft products, for instance jackets, ladies suits, shawls, caps, neck ties etc. Earlier pure wool colored in various colors was used for the border but due to the problem of the fading of the colors weavers started using acrylic yarn. The designs are almost similar to those of woven in the shawls. Kullu caps: The shape of Kullu cap is round in and flat on the top. It is called as Kullu topi and is known by the same in almost all the country. It is an important part of a local man’s garments in almost all the region of Himachal. In the front portion a band of colourful border is there, which is separately woven on small looms. The back portion is made of local woolen yarn, cotton or any other light material. Earlier bright coloured caps were popular but nowadays, vegetable colours are being used. The price of a Kullu cap depends on the cloth used and the pattern on the border. Patti: It is a short width coarse fabric which is made from sheep wool. It is a handloom product and measures 46-51 cm wide having an appropriate length. This fabric is generally used for making close neck coats, pants, suthan (pyjamas), jackets etc. Traditionally, the wool obtained from the first shearing of a lamb, is used for making chola (male gown). International Research Journal of Management Sociology & Humanity ( IRJMSH ) Page 266 www.irjmsh.com IRJMSH Vol 8 Issue 7 [Year 2017] ISSN 2277 – 9809 (0nline) 2348–9359 (Print) Thobi:, It is spun from goat hair and is a type of floor covering.