I CENSUS OF INDIA 1981

Series - 7 HIMACHAL PRADESH Part - X 0

HANDICRAFT SURVEY REPORT - ART OF SPINNING AND WEAVING

Draft D N Sharma Assistant Director

S K Bhandari Investigator

K C Sun Deputy Director of Census Operations, Himachal Pradesh

CONTENTS

Pages

FOREWORD III-IV

PREFACE V-VII

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT IX

MAP

CHAPTER I History of ongln and development of the craft 1-14

CHAPTER II Craftsmen In their rural setting 15-38

CHAPTER III Process of learning 39-44

CHAPTER IV Manufacturing processes 45-66

CHAPTER V Marketing 67-72

CHAPTER VI Craft and employment 73-79

CHAPTER V!! Conc!uslon 80-86

APPENDIX I Tables based on households of craftsman engaged In the craft 87-204

APPENDIX II Tables based on households of craftsman not practising the craft 205-236

APPENDIX III Dlstnctwlse Location of vanous Institutions 237-240

Sketches 241-256

FOREWORD

The Indian handicrafts are known the world over for their nch vanety, grace, elegance and skilled craftmanshlp Nevertheless, a number of handicrafts because of their stiff competition with factory made products, non-availability of raw matenals, exorbitant Increase In the manufacturing cost, lack of proper marketing facIlities for finished products or due to a variety of other reasons have either become extinct or have reached the mOribund stage After Independence, however, a number of schemes were Introduced by different government agencies for their growth and development but stili this sudden Impetus have helped only a few crafts to flourish and thereby become spinners of foreign exchange for the country

Despite the unique position being enjoyed by the handicrafts especially In the realm of national economy, the general awareness among the people In the country about our crafts and craftsmen had been deplorably poor Nothing was practically known about the commodities produced, techniques employed for the manufacture of different objects, raw matenals used, their availability, methods adopted for the sale of finished products etc An attempt was, therefore. made In connection With the 1961 Census to study about 150 crafts from different parts of the country With a view to provide baSIC Information on those crafts which were selected for the study

At the 1971 Census, the study on handicrafts was not taken up but thiS was again revived In connection with the 1981 Census There has been, however, some difference between the studies taken up In connection With the Censuses of 1961 and 1981 While the 1961 studies have covered both rural and urban crafts, the 1981 studies have focussed their attention on traditional rural based crafts That apart, the 1981 studies besides touching upon those aspects which were covered under the 1961 senes, have laid emphaSIS on matters that are vital for the revival of rural crafts and thereby for the rejuvenation of the economy of the region particularly the villages ThiS IS In consonance With the policy of the government to give due Importance to the rural sector With focus on employment Intensive strategy of development In which next to agriculture, the small scale industries and handicrafts playa significant role

The formats required for undertaking the study were formulated by Dr K P Ittaman under the able gUidance of Dr N G Nag, then the Deputy Registrar General, SOCial Studies DiviSIon. Dr. Ittaman who succeeded Dr. Nag as Deputy Registrar General, SOCial Studies DiVISion co-ordlnated the study undertaken In different States/Union Terntones by the Directorates of Census Operations The reports received from the Directorates were examined by Shn M K Jain, Senior Research Officer With the help of Smt. Suman Parashar, ASSistant Director of Census Operations and Shn R P. Naula, Investigator I am grateful to all of them for organising thiS study

(III) (IV)

The present report IS the outcome of the study undertaken on Art of Weaving, by the Directorate of Census Operations, Himachal Pradesh I have Immense pleasure In acknowledging the services rendered by Shn K C Sun, Deputy Director and his colleagues in the Census Directorate for bnnglng out this publication

New Deihl V S VERMA the 1st June,1988 REGISTRAR GENERAL, INDIA PREFACE

As In prevIous censuses It was decided by the Registrar General, India to conduct studies of selected towns and villages as well as Important crafts dUring the Intercensal period of 1981 census As a part of this programme, It was decided to conduct the craft survey relating to "weaving and spinning" In Himachal Pradesh This Industry has got a large potential for expansion due to the availability of raw material, market as well as the aptitude of the people who can devote towards this craft It was also decided that the field enquiry should be conducted through the agency of this directorate and the relevant data obtained from the government agencies like Handicraft and Handloom Corporation, Khadl & Village Industries Board and the Industries Department should be supplemented Elaborate schedules both In respect of village as well as households engaged In the craft formulated by the office of the Registrar General, India were adopted to be canvassed

The art of weaving was first studied by the Directorate of Census Operations, Himachal Pradesh as an ancillary to 1961 Census and the report was brought out In the year 1966 The field work was confined to the then JUriSdiction of the State As a result of reorganisation of the composite Punjab, the areas of Shlmla, Kangra, Lahul & SPltl and Kullu districts and Nalagarh tahSil of Ambala diStriCt, Una tahSil of Hoshlarpur dlstnct & DalhOUSie area of Gurdaspur district got merged In Himachal Pradesh on 1st November, 1966 The present survey was, therefore, conducted In order to assess the POSition prevailing In the merged areas of the State The weaving craft IS being practised almost In each and every Village of these areas to meet the local requirements of the people However, With the Implementation of the various development programmes by the Central and State Govts and other sponsored agencies, the Institutions functioning In the State are primarily concerned In Imparting training to the local people and are engaged In their rehabilitation and also making efforts In populanzlng the craft Efforts were made to select Villages haVing maximum concentration of weavers In the districts of Una, Hamlrpur, Kangra, Kullu and Lahul & SPltl For thiS purpose Manager, District Industrial Centres, - Himachal Pradesh Handicraft and Handloom Corporation, Himachal Pradesh Khadl & Village Industries Board were consulted before finalising the list of Villages Of the above mentioned five diStriCtS, there IS no concentration of weavers In Hamlrpur and Lahul & SPltl dlstncts Thus, two Villages from Kullu diStrict, one each from Una and Kangra dlstncts were taken up for canvassing the schedules

The field work which was started In December, 1985 was completed In October, 1986 The questionnaire was deSigned pnmarlly to obtain a VIvid picture of the artisan himself/herself, his/her craft In his/her social and economic setting, the extent to which traditions bound him/her and the Winds of change which have ruffled him/her, the extent of mobility and Immobility, the conditions of markets, credit, new contacts and deSigns In which he/she operated the frame of the craft and how far he/she was ready to pierce his/her own caste-tribe-SOClo-economlc cocoon and make a break­ through by the opportunities afforded and promised by the various government

(v) (VI)

sponsored schemes The aim was to hold up the mirror to the hereditary skills struggling with the dialectics of traditions and change

The village schedule sought to take account of the size of population of the village, ItS remoteness from or proximity to the centres of trade and commerce which shows the degree of Isolation in which the artisans work, and relative strength of various communities In the village which would afford clues to social Interdependence of the prevalence of "JaJmanl" system The area of the village alongwlth ItS demographic details covering castes and communities alongwlth the religion, mother tongue of the inhabitants and the total population with their traditional occupation give the p~cture of the village relating to demographic and economic characteristics of the village An attempt has also been made to collect data for the vllla{;je as a whole regarding history & origin and the development of the craft In the Village. The Information relating to the various agencies like Co-operative Societies, Khadl & Village Industries Board, Handloom Textile Corporation has also been collected with a view to gauge the Impact of their activities on the development of the crafts In the Village There are questions on the raw material used, the means of their procurement, the possible extent of dependence on others for material, the limits of their skill There were many other questions on the exchange and flow of the designs, the use of colours, the ancientness of the craft and legends aSSOCiated, colonization of the craftsmen on patrons and customers and their economic contact with the world In and outSide the Village There were specific questions on the availability of Improved tools and Implements, training faCIlities and their social and economic status In the society which were adopted to make the study not only comprehenSive and exhaustive but also realistic and educative

I am deeply Indebted to Shrl V S Verma, I AS, Registrar General and Census CommiSSioner India who Inspired us to bring out thiS report Without his active gUidance and encouragement, the report would not have seen light of the day My thanks are also due to Dr K P Ittaman, Deputy Registrar General, India and the staff of the Social Studies DIVISion of the office of the Registrar General, India, who co­ operated With us whole heartedly In carrying out field Investigation and write-up of the report I am also deeply. Indebted to Shn Mahlndra Nath, JOint Registrar General, India who was kind enough In solVing various problems which I had to face in completing the project

The reSidents of Village Lohara, Banogl, Har and Ban and the officers and staff of Khadl and Village Industries Board, Handicraft and Handloom Corporation, State Directorate of .Industrles, District Industries Centres, Bhuttl Weavers' Co-operative Society deserve our speCial thanks But for their active co-operation, It would not have been pOSSible to accomplish the task My thanks are also due to Shn B P. Jain, Deputy Director In the office of the Registrar General, India who got the report printed speedily

The report may be haVing many short comings and Inconslstancles due to non availability of feed back data Even then whatever has been printed, I earnestly hope that the Govt agencies, research scholars, planners, demographers and statistiCians (VII) would fInd the report useful and I shall feel amply rewarded If It comes upto theIr expectatIons The vIews and Inferences, If any, drawn In the report are those of the author and do not express the vIews of the Government

Dated . Shlmla K C SURI the 1st June, 1989 DEPUTY DIRECTOR OF CENSUS OPERATIONS, HIMACHAL PRADESH

ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

Plannmg and field work

Shn D N Sharma, Assistant Director

2 Shn G S Pabla, Assistant Director

3 Shn S K Bhandan, Investigator

4 Shn R K Sharma, Statistical Assistant

Tabulation

Shn S K Bhandan, Investigator

2 Shn R K Sharma, Statistical Asslsta'lt

3 Shn N C Chakraborty, Statistical Assistant

4 Shn G N Narta, Statistical Assistant

Typmg

Snn PI are Lal - Senior Stenographer

2 Shn Daulat Sen - TYPist

3 Shn Pawan Kumar - TYPist

4 Shn Vlrender Singh - TYPist

Cover design, sketches and map

1 Shrt J P Purohit, Senior Geographer

2 Shn Parma Nand, Artist

3 Shn Het Ram, Artist

4 Shll Shankar Lal, Draftsman

5 Shn Klran Kumar, H PM 0

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oIIJ I I I iii ~ o _-.J iii 10 '"3 0 I I w - - - CHAPTER I

History of Origin and Development of Craft

Early History: The need for protecting human necessity of cloth for covenng the body and Its body from the vaganes at weather IS as old as use to have comfortable sleep dunng night the human being This need goes on hours grows With the growth of CIVilization. In changing with the growth of CIVIlization and short, It can be safely assumed that there IS a the advancement made In the field of strong co-relation of spinning and weaving technology In the 990d old days, the human With the advancement of CIVilization The baSIC being was protectmg himself/herself from the matenal reqUired for the spinning and weaving vagaries of weather by liVing In the caves and continues to be the fibre crops and wool and covenng the body with the stalks of the hair of the sheep and goat and other animals trees/plants and thereafter the human being Nearchus m hiS wntlngs In the 3rd century BC started the use of the skin of vanous animals of the court of Chandra Gupta Maurya After stone age the human being developed mentions Indians wearing "linen of trees" the tools and Implements for the cultivation of (Cotton) shining white against the darkness of vanous crops and With the growing of certam their skins He speaks of tUniCS worn ankle fibre crops, the human being came to know length, of two pieces of stuff, one thrown over about the manufacture and use of vanous the shoulder and the other wrapped around types of cloth In short, It IS very difficult to lay the head, also of men who wore ear-nngs and hands on the specific period/time when the dyed their beards Crimson, white, blue-black art of spinning and weaving came mto and green who wore shoes of white leather eXistence However, In the epics such as elaborately worked With variegated high heels Ramayana, Mahabharta, Vedas, Upanishads, Manu Samntl, etc there IS suffiCient and Right from the early period of remote elaborate mention of clothing and dresses antiquity the art of weaving has paced forward worn by the people The ancient Indian texts WIth an unbroken continuity It IS an are, however, Silent on the Origin of weaving acknowledged fact that among the arts of and the tactics used In the process of weaving India, the art of making excellent coloured and their evolution, but, there appears to be a fabnc IS conSidered among the most ancient consensus among the archaeologists that the The relics found at Harappa and MohanJodaro process of weaving has lived With the growth excavations clearly indicate that spinning and of civilization and technology. The art of weaving was common with the people liVing spinning and weaving was very much In about 5,000 years ago It IS admitted that in existence much earlier than the 24th century the whole world, India was, perhaps, the first before Christ to perfect the art of weaving and that her muslins and sumptuous brockades of gold The royal Maunan textile workshops were In are probably older even than the code of existence over 2300 years ago. In these Manu The reference of terms I e warp and workshops. the spinners/weavers and weft find a mention In the Rig Veda The embrOIders used to work, but, no references clothes are the chief cause of respect and are available about the types of looms used or adoration of the human being The clothing the weaving techniques employed. The pattern continues changing With the Change In 2 the age, season and mantal and social status by thiS Directorate as 1961 Census publication of the human being Till 1950 A 0 the clothes are reproduced below - woven from the cotton, silk, wool and pashmma were mostly being used throughout "In Himachal Pradesh perhaps we may not the world, but, with the advancement of be able to trace out the early foot prints of thiS technology, the use of terrywool, terrycot, remarkable craft But It IS enough to console synthetic and polyester or their combinations ourselves that the household Industry IS has become more popular certainly of their very anc.lent origin The Pradesh was nch In prodUCing wool Trade Use of colours: With the change of time and faCIlities With Tibet also helped In exporting advancement of dyeing stuff, the colours were wool and pashmma In abundance "* also being used In the weaving pattern Initially, these colours were associated with The following lines taken from 'Western the gods, such as red slgnrfylng the colour of Tibet and British Border Land' Dy Charles A "Brahma", white that of "Shlva" and blue colour Shernng, will substantiate thiS fact of "Vishnu" The colours of the dresses were also associated with different ages and needs "These grazing-grounds extend for untold of the persons and corresponding sea~n as miles to the east of the Mansarowar Lake and well Saffron or Gerva IS the colour of the earth along the Sonpo, or Brahmaputra nver, and and of the "Yogis" who have renounced the also to the north of the Kallas mountains, and world Yellow signifies the colour of spnng to a certain extent, With diminished fertility, to (8asant), of young mangoes, of swarms of the west of the holy lakes, but there IS no bees of southern winds and the passionate question that Mansarowar IS the spot round chirping of birds, mehroon and black signify which the whole of the wool trade of western the colour of mourning Blue (Neen the colour Tibet centres Whether the wool goes to of Indigo is also the colour of Lord Krishna Ladakh or Nepal, to Simla or to Kumaon, the and so on With the change 01 time, the whole practically comes from thIs part and the combination of colours In the weaving process country to the east, and In every question being used In different designs more SUitS to relating to the further extenSion of thiS trade the aesthetic sense and catching to the eyes thiS principal fact must not be forgotten" rather than the projection of colours and cloth worn by the deity enshrined In the temple The About the flOUrishing wool traders of thiS multi-colour designs are more popular as Pradesh Sven Hedin has written In the 'Trans­ compared to the plain coloured clothes Himalaya'

The use of clothes was Influenced greatly "They come from Rampur ana have bought by the dictates of religions and economic wool In Gertse, which they Will carry to Gartok facilities available at that point of time, scarcity and India on five hundred sheep which they of raw matenal and lack of marketing facilities have also obtained In Gertse They have paid which do not allow the economic forces to two rupees for each sheep About sixteen operate completely with the vagaries of Indian caravans In the year are said to fetch weather which might have necessitated the wool from Gertse, and no doubt their profits use of woollen clothes In large quantity as are large" compared to the requirements In the plain areas ThiS profUSion of wool made splnnrng and weaving an Industry of many households Not The details about the origin of craft as given more than a decade ago everyone of these In the report 'The Art of Weaving' brought out hilly areas used woollen and 'Pasham'

* Quoted from 'Art of Weaving', Himachal Pradesh 1961 Census of India, Vol XX, Part VII A, No 2, P 2 3 textures All these were produced locally availability of raw matenal and with the spread Cotton cloth was uncommon. The Industry of education the girls Instead prefer to utilise flOUrished remarkably their time In studies

The State was also not haVing any textile With all the technological development In product as In other places like Banaras, the country handloom sector stili prOVides Murshidabad, Kanjlvaram & Shantinlketan for employment to more people than any other sans, Punjab for Phulkanes, Haryana for single sector. In other words, It IS next to Dume, curtains and blankets etc Mlrzapur for agnculture With regard to the employment carpets Till the begmnmg of the 20th century, potentials. It would be worthwhile to make a the village economy of the state was more or study of thiS craft which may enable the less self contained In many respects except weavers to Improve the quantity and quality of their reqUirements for sugar, salt etc which their output Keeping thiS object In View, the were to be met from other parts of the country present survey was undertaken to analyse the No splnnmg or weaving factory was present position of the craft and vanous short­ established in the State till seventies when a comings being faced and the remedial moderate begmnlng was made with the measures which are needed to be taken for ItS establishment of a few splnmng Units in upllftment The craft of spinning IS mostly Nalagarh-Barotlwala areas of Solan dlstnct, prevalent In almost all the parts of the State Paonta of Sirmaur district The looms and and intenSIty of the craft depends upon the CharkhasjTaklls (spindles) are utterly pnmltlve availability of raw matenal wnlch IS mostly and unchanged since time Immemonal In local compnslng of wool and hair of the sheep most of the cases a house IS a "one-room and goats In upper hills and cotton In the affair" I.e. both as a home and a factory. lower hills. Pashlmna spinning and weaving IS Vanous incentives provided by the mostly concentrated In Nurpur of Kangra government have not been fully availed, the dlstnct and Kullu and Mandl areas. The Silk pltlooms which were qUite common In the reeling and weaving IS done only at Nurpur by Villages, are being replaced by fly-shuttles the unit of the Himachal Pradesh Small espeCially by the weavers who are Industrial Development Corporation professionals and in some places the power looms have also been Installed and deSigning Though the craft IS being practised In the in the weaving was also facilitated with the rural areas of the state as a whole, yet, on the provIsion of training facilities In the vanous baSIS of details compiled from different productlon-cum-tramlng Institutes as well as sources, the main concentration of the opening up of the area The winds of change artisans IS In certain areas which are detaried are also being observed In the state where like In the follOWing statement I 1 other parts of the country the speclaliza.tlon In weaving profession has become more Statement I 1 meaningful Till the recent past, the weaving District-Wise maIO concentration of weavers was invariably done by almost each SI Name of Name of Place household, but, In the era of specialization this No District profession IS now being confined to the 2 3 professional weavers who were either solely dependent on thiS profession or do this work 1. Chamba Pangl, Ralpur as an economic pursuIt. In the lower areas of the state, the parents do prOVide training to 2 Kangra Nurpur, RaJa-Ka-Talab, Gangath, Papooh, Dharamsala, Kangra, their grownup girls in DUfrie making, but, thiS Pragpur, Oadas\ba, Haripur, Har, trend IS also declining gradually due to non- Dhal,yara, Chamukha 4

some extent, IS grown In the lower hills of the 2 3 Pradesh, but, the production IS hardly Bhota, oIdwlO , Chamneda, Gahan, sufficient to meet the local reqUirements As Ladraur, Kuthera, SUJanpur, per rough estimates arrived at In consultation Bharen, Nadaun With the knowledgeable persons, the local 4 Una Dalehar, Gondpur-Bulla, Sasan, reqUirement only meets about 5% to 10% of Palkwah, Haroil, Klnoo (Lohara), the raw material The Khadl and Village Jowar, Nangal, Jonalan, Ambota, Industries Board purchases cotton from the Marwan, Sognal, Dhundla, Saloh various markets of the adjoining states of 5 Bllaspur BassI Punjab and Haryana and the yarn IS also obtained through their own agencies It has 6 Mandl Mandl, Sundernagar, Rewalsar, also been observed that the cotton yarn IS Luna Panl also purchased In small quantity from the adJolmng business centres of Punjab like 7 Kullu Bashing (Banogl),Shamshl,8agan, Bhatgran, BanJar, Jagat-sukh, Ban Ludhlana acd Amntsar.

8. Lahul & Spltl Goshal, Shamsha, Jahlma, llndl, Khunk, Klbber, Mane, Rangnk (1/) Polyester and Poly-tape' As the demand for the Khad/ products IS dWindling due to the 9 Klnnaur Jangl, Spilio change In the attitude of the consumers as well as patronage of the products, the local Khadl Board Introduced the polyester and polytape In the weaving process. This raw Raw Material: Cotton, wool, pashmma, goat matenal is being obtained entirely through the hair, manno wool, Silk and jute type fibre are Khadl Commission sources. The introduction used In weaving and spinning In the Pradesh of the polytape In the process of weaving in The detailed description of the raw material 1985 has resulted In Improved demand for has already been given In the book (Art of Khad/ products weaving in Himachal Pradesh - by R C Pal Singh) brought out by this office The brief description of the various material and their (/II) Wool' Wool is the principal matenal used availability In the Pradesh are given below In weaving In the Pradesh, particularly in the upper regions The Pradesh IS rich In wool (/) Cotton: Most of the cotton cloth In the production The production of wool In the Pradesh comes from the various markets Pradesh has shown tremendous improvement located outside the Pradesh. However, the both In quality and quantity With the H.P Khadi & Village Industries Board and its implementation of various programmes under associated institutions locally known as the plan schemes. The local breed of sheep "Sansthas· located at Shimla, Kullu and Nerwa has been replaced by marino and ramboUiliet (Shimla) are taking steps to popularise and As per estimates of the State Animal propagate the use of Khadi Mostly the Khadl Husbandry Department, the production of cloth woven in the State meets the wool Increased from 11 18 Lacs Kgs in 1977 reqUirements of livery cloth being purchased to 13 44 lacs Kgs in 1987 The locally by the various government and autonomous available wool is purchased by the bodies. Besides, Durries, bed-sheets and consumers/traders from the shepherds Khes are prepared locally from the cotton yarn vIsiting the lower areas dunng winter months in the lower hill areas of the Pradesh. In and thereafter the same is cleaned, spun and addition, some weavers also take the weaving used for prepanng patt/s, pattoos, shawls, of Khaddar and similar type of cloth Cotton, to mufflers, Dorus etc. 5 With the availability of wool tops, the spinning mills have been established In the 2 3 state at Nalagarh, Sundernagar, Kullu, etc 9 Shlmla 164,958 The manno tops are mostly obtained from 10 Solan outside the state The Pradesh is not suffiCient 25,429 In wool and good quantity of wool and woollen 11 Sirmaur 38,832 yarn have to be obtained from the other states. The Khadi Board purchases marino 12 Klnnaur 47,168 tops through the Khadl Commission from outside the country. The wool as It is removed from the bOdy of the sheep, is collected in a bulk lot by the (iv) Sheep Breeding: Due to geographical and rearers and sold to the customers unwashed. climatiC conditions, Himachal Pradesh IS However, prior to shearing the flock owners ideally sUited for breeding of sheep. wash their sheep If they find time and Traditionally, the sheep are mostly reared by opportunrty, but, this is being done by very the Gaddis of Chamba district and Kanaura few people. The sheared wool is washed with and Lahaula tribes of the state. It has been soap and alkali process or by solvent process. observed that almost all the households in the Thereafter, it is dried and spun with spindle Pradesh, especially In the upper regions, rear which is commonly known as "Takli" . sheep for meeting their demand of wool and mutton. It will not be exaggerated to mention that sheep are being reared as a way of hfe In order to improve the breed of the local rather than as an economic pursuit. The sheep, the State Animal Husbandry district-wise number of' sheep In Himachal Department has established the following Pradesh accordrng to qurn-qurnnral Live-stock sheep breeding farms in the State:- Census is given in statement 1.2 (1) Sh~ep Breeding Farm, Jeori Statement 1.2 (2) Sheep Breeding Farm, Karchham (3) Sheep Breeding Farm, Nagwain District-wise number of Sheep (Live stock census 1982) (4) Sheep Breeding Farm, Chamba (5) Sheep Breeding Farm, Tal SI Name of district Number of sheep No (iv) SIlk: The Encyclopaedia Britannica gives 2 3 followrng definition of silk:-

Chamba 269,923 "Silk is a fibrous substance produced by many Insects, pnnclpally in the form 2 Kangra 00,833 of cocoon or covenng With which the 3 Harl1lrpur 58,877 creatures are enclosed and protected dunng the penod of their principal 4 Una 11,175 transformation; the webs and nets etc., 5 Bllaspur 34,154 formed by spiders are also of Silk But the fibres used for manufacturing 6 Mandl 194,021 purposes are exclUSively produced by the mulberry silk-moth of China, 7. Kullu 111,719 Bombay mori and a few other moths a. Lahul & Spiti 43,233 closely allied to that Insect." 6

In Himachal Pradesh silk fabncs are places. The pashmlna weaving IS mostly produced mostly by the silk centres at Nurpur concentrated In Nurpur of Kangra dlstnct In In Kangra dlstnct a unit of Small Industry addition, some people also purchase Development Corporation a Government pashmlna from local shops for their domestic undertaking Due to the non-availability of raw requirement, but, thiS sort of pashmlna matenal as vvell as lack of craftsmanship weaving IS confined to Kullu and Mandl In the among the local weavers, the silk weaving and state spinning IS almost non-existent In the state, although, the climate In most parts of the state (VI) Shell The hair which are separated from IS favourable for growing mulberry as well as raw pashmina are used for making mattresses reanng silk worms Taking advantage of the locally called Kharcha or sheila The hair potentiality of the Industry, the Himachal which are coarsely spun Into a yarn are known Pradesh Government IS taking adequate steps as "Pasham-ke-Bal" for the setting up of senculture centres/sub­ centres in the state and at present, the (VII) Goat Hair. Villagers who rear goats shear Industnes Department IS maintaining 28 sub­ them once In a year The hair are spun and centres In the Pradesh In these centres, the used In preparing mattresses or Kharchas silk worms are reared while the cocoons are About 5 to 10 kgs of hair are needed to make purchased for reanng a Kharcha or mattress In addition, wool yarn IS also purchased from Amntsar and Ludhlana (V) Pashmma' Pashmlna IS a very soft fleece of centres of Punjab for carpet weaving a Himalayan goat generally called "Chlgoo" The animal is found In Tibet areas across the (VIII) In the districts of Kullu, Klnnaur and border and Ladakh region of Jammu & Lahul & SPltl till sometimes past, people were Kashmir State The pashmlna goats are also manufactunng straw shoes locally known as found In Lahul & SPltl areas of Himachal 'Pullas' and also weaving of mat, for their Pradesh The raw pashmlna carries coarse domestic requirements The basIc raw thick hair In about half of the onglnal quantity matenal used In these products are the fibres which IS separated by sorting with comb of 'Beul' tree The Khadl & Village Industnes Traders sell pashmlna to the customers In the Board has also taken up the weaving of mat, coarse form Sorting of hair from the soft but, the results are not encouraging fleece IS done by the consumers Rampur IS the main trading centre for pashmlna The Statement I 3 gives the district-wise Khadl and Village Industries organisation weaving/spinning tralnlng-cum-productlon sometimes purchases pashmlna directly from centres In the state as on 31 st December, the traders located at Manall or at other 1985 7

Statement I 3

Dlstrlct·wlse weaving, weaving production, spinning, training centres, procurement Units and sale centres run by various agencies of the state

Name of Name of Number of Centre Agency district Wea­ Spin­ Train­ Pro­ Sale Fini­ Indu- Handl­ vmg ning Ing cure­ cen­ shing stna! craft / produ­ centre centre ment tres plant exte- Hand­ ction Unit! nSlon loom centre sub- centre Desl- Unit (Tex- gns tile) Deve­ lop­ ment centre

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

1 Khadl & 1 Chamba 1 5 Village 2 Kangra 3 8 Industnes 3 Hamlrpur 1 Board, H P 4 Una 3 1 5 Bllaspur 1 1 6 Mandl 2 3 1 7 Kullu 1 2 8 Lahul & SPltl 2 9 Shlmla 10 Solan 11 Sirmaur 12 Kmnaur

2 H P Handi­ 1 Chamba 6 2 2 craft & 2 Kangra 4 1 Handloom 3 Hamlrpur 1 1 Corpora­ 4 Una tion 5 Bllaspur 2 6 Mandl 3 7 Kullu 1 1 8 Lahul & SPltl 2 9 Shlmla 1 2 10 Solan 11 Sirmaur 12 Kmnaur 8

The location of weaving and spinning people. The looms and charkhas have not centres being run by various agen"cles has undergone marked change since time been £lIven In Annexure III. immemorial except that the Khadl Board Introduced various types of charkhas In 1970, Durir 19 the field enquiries, it has been It Introduced "Bhageshwafl charkha" and observ(Jd that the art of spinning and weaving during 1984·85 a "New model charkha" having has also become a victim of the machine age. tour to twelve spindles was introduced in the It IS a work of artistical skill, and has not kept state But, With all the IncentIves provided by pace with the changIng preferences of the the state government and Its vanous 8

Institutions, the weaving and spinning craft In fact, It IS practised by all those rearing has not regained the lost glory The craft In the sheep and goats However, the Gaddl, the state IS suffering from various Ills like non­ Kanaura and other nomadiC tribes are availability of raw material, stiff competition engaged In the craft as profeSSionals while from the mill/power loom products, changes the others do It either as a hobby or as an In the patronage of the products and various economic pursuit financial constraints It has also been gathered that bulk of the Khadl IS sold dUring the rebate Spinning In the lower areas IS being done penod or to the government agencies for on behalf of the Khadl & Village Industries livery purposes, but this demand IS also Board while In the upper areas it IS being done dWindling as with the spread of by elderly persons mostly dUring winter education/Increase In purchaSing power months while basking In the sun or by sitting among the rural people, there IS more In front of the hearth Most of the households emphasIs on mill made clothing of fine quality are engaged In the spinning for meeting their In these years as compared to 20 years back domestic reqUirements as well as utiliSing the The vanous problems, which the craft IS wool obtained from the domesticated facing, have been discussed In the household sheep Over-all, there IS a down­ subsequent chapters ward trend so far as spinning craft IS concerned which IS due to lack of availability Spinners and weavers of raw matenal as well as easy availability and more remunerative avenues of work In Himachal Pradesh, the spinning and weaving except at few places, IS a household A weaver In common parlance IS known as Industry The spinning is mostly done by the 'Jullaha' The Scheduled Castes known as elderly persons on 'Tak/,' In the higher regions Dumnas, Ka/ls, Ju/lahas and Chamangs are to of the State during winter months whereas In a great extent engaged In weaving If they find the lower regions, the spinning IS done time from other occupations The economy in whenever the members of the households find the state IS slightly different as compared to time But, with the opening of other avenues of the neighbouring states In Himachal Pradesh employment, this craft IS gradually declining almost every household owns some piece of and the younger generations are not land and they prefer to call themselves as enthusiastic to devote time and energy for agriculturist rather than a weaver Moreover, spinning Likewise, the weaving IS also not the income from weaving provides only a confined to a particular community In the hand to mouth existence and IS a good source higher hills, but, In the lower areas the of seasonal employment to supplement the weaving IS practised by Jullahas except the earnings The weavers have only one weaving of Dums and Khes which are mostly advantage of being In the trade that they have done by the household ladles Children start their own hours of working and all the family learning spinning at tender-age and acqUire members can attend both to the loom as well expertise Within a year or so The old guards as the household work Without any generally do spinning when enJoYing warmth Inconvenience The weaving In most parts of of the sun or while sitting In the room by the the state IS being encouraged by the various side of hearth. government agencies like Himachal Pradesh Khadl and Village Industries Board, Himachal Communities associated with the craft Pradesh Handicraft and Handloom Corporation and Cooperative Societies as The craft IS not the monopoly of persons they supply yarn to them and take all the belonging to a specific caste or ethnic group products which the weavers produce ThiS 9 craft IS also encouraged by the Tibetan responsible for decay of this craft is the Institutions Almost all the weavers interviewed unremunerative wages which the person gets are not specific about the origin of the craft In by dOing spinning and weaving It has been the village and the Involvement of their families gathered from the field enqUiries that whatever In the craft Both these factors might be due to spinning activities are there, these are only attraction of the economiC forces Some of the due to the supply of raw material by the Khadl surveyed households had reported that they and Village Industnes Board and they also are the descendents of Saint Kablr ensure to get back the yarn from the spinners In the upper areas of the state, the spinning Apart from the profeSSional weavers, there actIVIties are confined to the households who are also other households In the rural areas of have reared sheep not only for mutton the state who are engaged in the craft for purposes, but, also for meeting the woollen meeting their household reqUirements In the requirement of the household. In these areas lower areas of the state It has been found that also, the spinning craft IS fast declining as the "Dums" "Khes/Khes/" are being woven/ young generation IS not Interested to do thiS manufactured mostly by the ladles In the Job as the return therefrom is not household Itself. These households belong to commensurate With the labour put in. In all castes With the establishment of addition, With the Increase in per capita production-cum-tralnlng centres, most of the Income, the demand for finer quality of persons belonging to the traditional weaving woollen cloth is on the Increase as the local families as well as to other commUnities are woollen products are not finding easy also coming forward to learn the craft With a markets Hence, It Will not be wrong to arrive view to earn their livelihood In the centres out that the spinning/weaving craft IS facing a mentioned In statement I 3 the monthly declining trend In the state as a whole stipend IS given to the trainees ranging from Rs 75/- to Rs 100/- and the duration of Man power engaged In the Craft The tramlng also vanes from one to two years weaving craft, no doubt, In the state has After completion of the training, the persons become a Victim of the machine-age and It are given various aids In the form of supply of has to compete With the mill/power loom fly-shuttles and yarn at subSidized rates or products The weaving Industry In Himachal enrolling themselves With the institutions for Pradesh IS mostly labour oriented With a few the supply of yarn and receiving back the exceptions where yarn mills like BaSSI finished products In addition, the trained Spinning Mill, Bllaspur, Sldhartha Spinning persons are also encouraged to form Mill near Nalagarh and Dev Bhuml Spinning cooperative societies Mill, Kullu have come up dunng the recent years, otherWise, the entire process of Spinnmg Spinning IS not so much popular weaving and spinning IS done manualy No In the lower hills. The craft of spinning like doubt, the Pit looms have been replaced With other crafts has also become a Victim of the flyshuttles, but, stili no mechanical process machines One generally comes across old IS Involved In the weaving of various types of womeJ:l spinning on the charkha and the raw products In the state As already mentioned, matenal Invanably consists of cotton of old the weaving industry is not concentrated In ql.lIlts or raw wool procured from the reared specific pockets/districts of the state, but sheep The spinning activities have now IS being carned out almost In majority of the almost out-dated due to non-availability of Villages of the state The number of , raw matenal as well as easy availability of weavers In the Villages IS directly related to the mill made yarn w(,ich is much cheaper and is size of the Villages and the area beIng In good demand. The other factors covered The weaving units except a few 10

places like Kullu and Dalhousie areas mostly mainly by 'Jul/aha' community which IS cater to the requirement of the local people. notified as a Scheduled Caste In the state In The weavers of Kullu, Dalhousie and Chamba the higher hills, Kolls and Chamars are mostly areas also meet the demand of the tourists dOing the weaving activities, but, Instances vIsiting these places Most of the weavers In have also come to notice that the persons the state are doing weaving work on part-time belonging to other castes like RaJPut, Kanet basIs as they are more Inclined to devote their and Brahmm are also engaged In the weaving time and energy to the agricultural operations activities while the former community IS dOing as cultivator or agricultural labourer The work for other people, the weavers of later weavers who are dependent on weaving are commUnities cater to their domestic not Inclined to beg for a living on others as requirements only they have theIr own hours of work whIle doing the Job. In most of the cases weaving provides Handicrafts Objects With regard to craft, a subsidiary source of Income to the family India was once known as the golden sparrow There IS no authentiC Information available allover the world Its abundant wealth attracted regarding the exact number of weavers In this a large number of foreign Invaders due to craft alongwlth sex-wise and community / which the Indian art not only had to face caste-wise break-up Like earlier censuses, extinction, but, also the survIving art had to information regarding the main and secondary face tough competition from the mill made occupation of the person was also collected at products especially dUring the British time the time of 1981 census As per 1981 Census when textile was Imported either from England figures, the number of weavers In the state or Japan The roots of the craft were so deep who have returned weaving as their main that It was difficult to remove these completely occupation was 5,436 (3,551 males and 1,885 and these survived due to various national females) The number of persons having movements organised dUring the freedom weaving as secondary occupation IS not struggle and also due the fact that the available In the census terminology a person millmade products could not cope With the who has worked for more than 183 days In a entire demand of the country After year IS categorised as main worker while a Independence as well as With the launching of person who has worked for less than 183 days various Five Year Plans, thought was given to In a year preceding the date of enumeration IS revive the diminished glory of art of weaving considered a marginal worker The authentiC not only to satisfy the aesthetiC sense, but information regarding the number of also to Improve various economic and social households engaged In this craft In the state IS factors like the employment potentials and also not available It was also observed dUring balancing the factors of the economy Under the field enqUiries that both men and women the various programmes, Incentives like are engaged In this craft The help of the setting up of training, marketing and research children available In the household IS also institutions, supply of yarn at reasonable rates taken In various processes of weaving The and reasonable quantity of raw matenal were participation of women mainly depends upon provided for the revival of the craft The the economic status of the household, government also subsidized the sale ot educational qualifications and availability of products of various state government time which they can spare from their undertakings like Khadl and Village Industnes household duties Regarding the communities Board and Handicrafts and Handloom and castes engaged In thiS craft, no authentic Corporation In Addition, loans at subSidized information IS available except personal rates of Interest were also provided observatIons made during the fIeld enqUines. LIke other states of the country, the Khadl In the lower hills, thiS craft IS being practised and Village Industries Board also came Into 11 being In Himachal Pradesh with a view to the sale also increased to Rs. 17 lacs. At the promote the growth of Village Industry The end of the year 1985-86, the production had Board came Into eXistence as a statutory gone up to Rs 37.10 lacs which increased to organisation on the 8th January, 1968 and IS a Rs 40.13 lacs In 1986-87 and there were 11 non-profit service organisation affiliated to the sale depots of thiS SOCiety The society IS All India Khadl and Village Industnes being run In three workshops Besides Sh Commission The Board helps and promotes Brahm Swarup Thakur, Managing Director the Industnal units With a view to Inculcate the of the Society VISited Etlg~nd, West Germany, SPlnt of Initiative, cooperation and self reliance Canada & USA as one man sales team for for the development of economy and at the the export of shawls on behalf of the wool & same time helps In utiliSing the un-employed woollen export promotion committee of India and under employed man power available In In addition, there are some other cooperative the Villages for the processing of locally SOCieties engaged In the manufacture of available raw matenal by adopting Simple and shawls, chaddars, mufflers etc. mostly Improved techniques In the production of catering to the requirement of the tourists. At vanous Items mostly based In the rural areas the end of the year 1989-86 There were as These industries help artisans to preserve their many as 62 Weavers Coe>peratlve SOCieties cultural hentage and to earn the livelihood With membership of 1603 persons in Kullu, Kangra, Chamba, Mandl, Una, Hamlrpur, Kmnaur and Bllaspur districts of the State The Another organisation of weaving actIVities IS maximum number I e 35 has been reported the HImachal Pradesh Handicrafts & Hand­ from Kullu dlstnct followed by Mandl I e 10 loom Corporation Ltd , an undertaking of the BeSides one weaver's appex body In Kullu and state government The corporation came Into 2 spinners SOCieties In Kangra dlstnct are also eXistence In March, 1974, With an authOrised reported functioning In addition, the work of capital of Rupees one crore In the carpet weaving IS also being done In the subsequent years, the share and paid up Pradesh The Industry IS concentrated In capital were Increased The main objectives of Nurpur area as the traders from the adjOining the corporation are to promote and develop state of Punjab arrange the raw material to the the handicraft and handloom Industry of the weavers and get back the finished products Pradesh The corporation IS caterlng/ The other Important organisations engaged In benefiting the weaker sections of the society the weaving of carpets are the Tibetan and more than 97 percent of the beneflclanes SOCieties located at Tirlordhar In Sirmaur under various schemes belong to scheduled dlstnct, Kasumptl in Shimla dlstnct and castes and scheduled tnbes categories Dharamsala In Kangra dlstnct About 90 percent of the carpets manufactured by the Tibetan SOCieties are exported to other Another Important Institution promoting the countnes manufacture of shawls and other woollen Climatically the state is SUitable for the products IS tne "Bhuttl Weavers Cooperative growing of mulberry trees which are essential Society" In Kullu district The society was gradients for reeling the cocoons. The registered With the Registrar, Cooperative sericulture section of the Industries SOCieties, Punjab on the 18th December, 1944 Department has established 28 cocoons With membership of 12 weavers and working reeling centres In the state where 67,843 Kgs capital of Rs 23 25 The actiVities of the cocoons were reeled dUring the year 1984-85 society were badly handicapped dUring the A Silk weaving factory, a unit of Himachal penod 1944-56 for want of adequate funds By Pradesh Small Industrial Development 1980, the membership Increased to 141 and Corporation, has been established at Nurpur 12

in Kangra district. The factory has not made The second category of private weavers much headway as the quality of products can comprise of those working for the local people not match with the products of Banaras, In consideration of the wages either in cash or Mysore and Kanjivaram. in kind at the time of harvest. Such people have been reported from all over the state, but, persons engaged in shawl making are In addition to the above organisations, concentrated only in Kullu valley. In Kullu area some of the private entrepreneurs are also shawl making is a major household/cottage engaged in this trade. These entrepreneurs industry, but, It is unfortunate that they can not are broadly of two types i.e. those who have increase their production and maKe more set up their units within their own premises money from their rare talent because of and have engaged artisans either on unscientific and archaic methods of sheep monthly basis or on piece wages. Production rearing and culling due to which the wool yield of these units is disposed of either through is low. Besides, they have to face stiff their own efforts or sold to the looal traders. competition from the shawl makers of Most of these units are located in Kullu Valley Ludhlana . in Punjab who manufacture the engaged in the manufacture of shawls etc. shawls on power looms which cost less as where there is a large influx of tourists which compared to the Kullu shawls. The production provide a ready market for the famous Kullu and value of products in respect of the shawls and chaddars. In the recent years, weaving secoon of Himachal Pradesh. Khadl there has been a good demand for the border and Village Industnes Board and Himachal (small designed strip) woven on the looms Pradesh Handicrafts and Handloom which IS generally used for making of Bushehn Corporation, are given In statements 1 4 and and Kullu caps and borders for the shawls 1 5

Statement 1.4

Details of handicraft objects produced

Name of different Purpose for Approximate quantity If the quantity objects made which used produced dunng produced dunng the last one year last year was less than the prevIous year reasons for the same

2 3 4

1. Cotton Khadl Chadar, clothlnQ Approximate Due to clOSing 2 Woollen Khadl Shawl, Blankets value of quantity of some centres 3 Silken Khadl Clothing produced I e by the board the 4. Polyester Khadl Clothing 1951 lacs valued quantity production has been reduced by Rs 800 lacs

Source HImachal Pradesh Khadl and VIllage Industnes Board Shimls 13

Statement 1.5

Centre-wise products with their value for the year (1984-85)

Name of Centre Product with value (In Rupees)

Blankets Shawls Chaddar Livery In Other Gents rptrs handloom products

2 3 4 5 6

Weaving production Centre, 4,028 2232 80 Berthln (2,62,887) (1,05,803)

2. Extension Centre Textile. 6,032 92 503105 Bllaspur (4,67,392) (7,917) (1,78,709)

3 Weaving production centre 160 80 Jassar,Chamba (21,610) (9,947)

4 Weaving production centre 220 33 Tundl, Chamba (24,897) (3,797)

5 Chamba Textile, Chamba 401 2056 8,098 (33,064) (2,54,644)

6 Weaving production centre 11 827550 45449 Palampur, Kangra (759) (87,313)

7 Weaving Production Centre, 100 9,047 Kalpa, Klnnaur (20,407)

8. Weaving Production Centre, 44 3 796 Gaylog, Klnnaur (9,505) (1,062)

9 Weaving Production Centre, 37 1,341 Spillo, Klnnaur (13,373)

10. Klnnaur Textile, Nlchar 472 247 51,118 Klnnaur (44,736) (8,757)

11 Weaving Production Centre. 67 640 197 165 Mandl (3,348) (64,437) (24,753)

12 Weaving Production Centre, 10 681 Sunder Nagar (543) (66,943)

13 Weaving ProductIon Centre, 596 4,837 Joglnder Nagar (56,705)

14. Procurement Production Centre, 4,941 380 25,329 Kullu (6,3.5,171) (54,154)

Source' Himachal Pradesh Handicraft and Hand/oom C-orporatlon, Shlmla. 14

From these statements, It may be observed that bulk of the sales are mdde analaysed that not only the main emphasIs of dunng the rebate penod Efforts should be the KhaCh Soard IS on the weaving section, made to create a demand dunng the entire but, the other sections, like village Industry penod In thiS regard steps have been made etc. have left behind the weaving section both to diverSify the production. In respect of quality and quantity of the products Strenuous efforts are stili required to The Handicrafts and Handloom Corporation Improve the economic lot of the artisans which IS dOing a good Job, but, due to financial will go a long way In propping up the Industry constraints results are not so encouraging. and status of the weavers It has been The Shuttl Weavers have, however, created a observed that the artisans of the state are not good market by displaYing better quality equally matching With their counter-parts in products which they have achieved due to other states due to which the quality products strenuous efforts put In by the dedicated are not being produced It has also been workers CHAPTER II

CRAFTSMEN IN THEIR RURAL SETTING

As a part of 1961 Census programme the Statement II. 1 art of weaving was studied In Himachal Pradesh comprising the present districts of Name of the Name of the Name(s) of the Bllaspur, Chamba, Kinnaur, Mandl, S,rmaur District TahSil Villages and part of Shimla distriCt. Due to the surveyed reorganisation of Punjab on linguistic baSIS on 2 3 1st November, 1966 some areas of the composlt Punjab comprising of Kangra, Kullu, Una Amb lohara Lahul and SPltl and Shlmla districts and Nalagarh tahsil of Ambala dlstt. and DalhOUSie Kangra Dehragoplpur Har area of Gurdaspur dlstt. and Una area of Kullu Kullu 1 Banogl Hoshiarpur dlstt. were merged In Himachal 2 Ban Pradesh At the time of 1971 Census there were ten districts In the state and the number The art of weaving and spinning IS mostly of districts Increased to 12 in 1981 Census being practised In the rural areas of the state Due to the increased emphaSIS on the The number of weavers and spinners In the development of hand loom and khadl urban areas of the state IS qUIte negligible Il'ldustry, need was felt that art of weavmg Nurpur which IS a tahSil and sub-diVISional should be studied again as a part of 1981 hqrs of Kangra district IS the only exception census anCillary study programme With a view where there is concentratIon of weavers to study the changes which have occurred In engaged In manufactUring pashmma shawls the craft over a period of time It was deCided Keeping this fact In view the study has been that as the study has already been done In the confined to the rural areas only old areas and report already published, scope of present study should be confined to the The field work was started In December, areas which were merged after 1st November, 1985 and completed In October, 1986 The 1966 The Industries Department of the state questionnaire was deSigned pnmarlly for government was requested to supply the list obtalnlnQ information on various aspects of Villages haVing the concentration of of the craft and the constraints which come In weavers and spinners In Kangra, Kullu, the way for proper development of the craft Hamlfpur, Una and Lahul and Spltl districts The present study is a modest attempt In this On the baSIS of the list supplied and the direction diScussions held With the concerned agencies like Khadl and Village Industries Board, General Particulars of Selected Villages Himachal Pradesh, Handloom and Handicraft Corp Director of Industries etc the follOWing Lohara Villag~ Village were accordingly selected In the state Lohara Village 1alls m Amb tahSil 01 Una for the canvassing of schedules dlstnct It IS 34 Kms from Una, the district 16 hqrs 13 Kms from Amb the sub-dIVIsion & Of the total population 48 98 percent are tahsil hqrs. and police station and IS on Una­ males and 51 02 percent females. The Dharamsala State Highway 23. The village Scheduled Castes population constitute 30.22 is very much scattered and has 19 hamlets percent of the total population of the village There IS a primary school In the village but for Occupationally the majority of the workers high school education the villagers have to have returned themselves as agricultUrists send their wards to Bharwaln which IS about 4 Some of the households have their one or two Kms. from Lohara. The faCIlities of college persons employed in government service. It education are available at Amb which IS 13 has also been observed that although there IS Kms from the village The faCIlities of post a concentratIon of Jul/aha community mainly office, electriCity (domestic, commercial and associated With the weaving craft, but, most of industrial) medical, drinking water and the households have left the profeSSion for motorable road are, however, available Within one reason or the other The weavers stili the Village Itself Telephone, telegraph and engaged In the craft are either engaged on banking facilities are available at Bharwaln part time baSIS or working as whole time The nearest marketing centre IS at Chlntpurnl weavers as they do not want to be dependent which is about 6 Kms. from the Village For the on other persons. people of Lohara the nearest railway station IS at Hoshiarpur at a distance of about 38 Kms Statement II 2 depicts the reltgionw!se/ As per 1981 Census the population of the castewlse demographiC characteristics of the village is 3,448 persons With 667 households Village at the time of survey

Statement II 2

Population of Lohara village claSSified by caste/religion and mother tongue-1986 Survey

Name of Religion Mother No of Total Population caste tongue house holds Persons Male Female

2 3 4 5 6 7

Brahmin Hindu Kangn 303 1,468 671 797

2 RaJput 112 585 243 342

3 Tarkhan 7 41 23 18

4 Sood 2 9 4 5

5 Nal 11 65 31 34

6 Jheer 8 47 25 22

7 Lalan 4 20 11 9

8 Bhral 2 5 2 3

9 Lohar 6 27 12 15 (S C)

10 Kablrpanthl 120 782 404 378' (S C) 17

2 3 4 5 6 7

11 Chhlmba 17 98 49 49 (S C)

12 Dumne 12 76 35 41 (S C)

13 Sarare 6 43 20 "3 (S C)

14 Chamar 49 293 148 145 (S C)

15 GUJJar Muslim 25 130 60 70

rotal 684 3,689 1,738 1,951

The traditional occupation of Kablrpanthl/ Arrangement was also made With the Khadl Jul/aha had been the weaving, but with the and Village Industries Board to open a sub­ wind of change, most of the persons centre for the supply of yarn and getting back belonging to this section of society have the finished products from the artisans At the sWitched over to other trades such as dally time of survey the field team observed that wage-workers, bUSiness, service etc as the supply of yarn from thiS centre was most low Income from weaving means only a hand erratic, resulting mto discontinuation of the to mouth liVing for them Of the 120 weaving work by some of the households As households of Kablrpanthl only 18 households already mentioned the looms and Charkhas were engaged in weaving work either partly or being operated have remained unchanged wholly The concentration of these since time ImmemOrial except that the households has been reported from Klnnu pltlooms have been replaced by fly-loom hamlet of the village which IS on the roadside shuttles and Charkhas have also undergone and is about 34 Kms from Una The Himachal minor changes to the extent of "new model Pradesh Khadl and Village Industries Board Charkhas" haVing 4 to 12 spindles The use of had In the recent past taken certain steps to new Charkha was mostly confined to very few rejuvenate this craft Steps were taken to householdS In 1982, nine fly loom shuttles motivate the local artisans for the training were Installed by the Industries department In programme organised In the village dUring the Klnnu hamlet Training for use of fly shuttles year 1983-84 The main aim of the training was was Imparted by a lady instructor of Khadl and to change their way of life as most of the Village Industries Board for a year DUring thiS persons engaged In the craft were period the raw matenal was supplied by the conservative and uneducated Training was Board and the manufactured items taken back Imparted to 15 persons and the Board had by them The trainees were given stipend of also supplied a warp machine to the Villagers Rs 100/- pm The fly shuttles were prOVided It was installed in the house of Shri Prem at subSidised rates to the trained persons who Chand, Chowkldar whose Wife also received were working on the pitlooms. the tramlng from the Instructor DUring survey it was reported that the machine could not be utIlised fully for want of raw matenal and also The cost of each fly loom shuttle was Rs. due to non-availability of the trained operators 1,800/- which was supplied to the weavers on 18 subsidized rate of Rs 1,200/- Before the finished products at remunerat,ve rates installing the fly loom shuttle the officials had Another factor which counts much IS the mIll promised to give 50 percent subsidy, but, made cloth which IS more catching to the eyes actually they were given a subsidy of 33 and durable as compared to the hand-Ioom­ percent and the Installation of warp machine cloth In these circumstances, the weavers was also assured for the village, As per generally depend upon the local customers to version of the majority of weavers, the supply the raw matenal themselves. The government agencies failed to supply the households who are having the raw material, timely and adequate quantity of raw material approach the artisans to prepare for them and to create Infrastructure for marketing the shawls, pattoo and khes etc On an average, products After installation of the machine, the manufactunng charge of the weavers are matenal was supplied only once resultmg In as under', non-functioning of as many as 6 looms 1 Shawl plain Rs 25/- per piece BeSides, most of the looms were fixed either In the open space or In the uncovered verandah 2 Shawl (design) Rs 35/- onwards per As a result, the working was somewhat piece difficult dUring summer and rainy seasons, 3 Blanket (pattoo) Rs 15/- per p,ece Initially, It was proposed to bUild sheds for these looms, but, the proposal did not 4 Khes Rs 12/- per piece. materialise 5 Khadar check Rs 2.90 per meter The weaving work is generally done by the Har Village: Har Village of Dera Goplpur tahSIl females after they are free from the household of Kangra dIstrict IS located at a distance of 6 duties as men are generally engaged in Kms from the tahSIl and sub-dIvisional cultivation or working as dally wage labourers headquarters and 60 Kms. from Dharamsala, During the field survey, It was observed that the district headquarters of Kangra district. the weaving is a very slow process and the The nearest marketIng centre, middle school, earnings are not adequate enough for secondary school and bank are at Pragpur at matching the labour put In In addition, most a distance of 4 Kms. from the Village The of the households are flndmg other faCIlities of telephone, telegraphs and post occupations more remunerative as compared office are avaIlable at Neran-pukhar which IS to the weaving, None of the households about 2 Kms. from the VIllage For degree having subSidized fly shuttles have returned educatIon, the Villagers have to go to the loan as they are Insistlno on subsidy of 50 Dhaliyara at a distance of 4 Kms The nearest percent Instead of 33 percent Actually, 50 police station IS at Dera and the nearest percent subSidy was provided to those raIlway station IS at Jawalamukhi Road on the families who were covered under Integrated Rural Development Programme and 33 Pathankot-Joglndernagar narrow gauge line of the northern raIlways There is a primary percent substdy was admtsslble to others The school In the village In addItion, the villagers repayment of loan initially proposed was to be are also availing the faCilities of drinking water in 12 Instalments of Rs. 100/- each. and electricity, Few shops catering to the local requIrements have also sprang up in the Due to lack of demand In the rural areas Village. As per 1981 Census, population of the and poor economic conditions, the weavers Village is 3.092 persons w~th 543 households. were not In a position to purchase raw matenal of their own. Even If someone The caste-wise population alongwith ventures to buy the raw matenal from the mother tongue and religIon of the VIllage is market, then, there IS hardly any market to sell given In statement II 3 below.- 19

Statement II 3

Population of Har Village classified by Caste/religion and Mother Tongue-1986 Survey

Name of Caste Religion Mother No of Total Population tongue house- holds p M F

2 3 4 5 6 7

Kablrpanthl (S.C) Hindu Kangn 70 490 233 257

2 Rajput 25 150 62 88

3 Chamar (SC) 5 35 17 18

4 Dumne (SC) 7 3 4

5 Brahmin 8 48 28 20

6 Nal 6 3 3

7 Teh Mushm 5 30 14 16

8 Tarkhan Hindu 20 120 52 68

Total 135 886 412 474

As already mentioned, the Village IS haVing persons could not keep themselves fully concentration of weavers Out of 70 engaged In the craft, as a result, weaving kablfpanthl households In the Village, as many remained as a secondary occupation With as 60 In one way or the other are engaged In most of the households with the exception of their traditional occupation of weaving Apart a few. Due to inadequate earnings as well as the pit looms, there are 20 fly shuttles working various time consuming processes, by and in the Village. In the recent past, the Khadl & large, weaving remained the exclUSive domain Village Industries Board arranged a training of females. As their earnings were not programme for one year to the persons sufficient, the men folk preferred to work as interested in the weaving craft and a stipend of cultivators and dally wage workers DUring the Rs 50/- per head was paid to each trainee course of enqUiry made from the selected After completion of the training, the fly shuttles households as well as the representatives of were provided to the trainees at subSidized the Villagers, It was observed that the craft rates and the cost of fly-shuttle was recovered provides such unremunerative earnings that @ Rs. 50/- per month Besides, cash of Rs the persons engaged In the collection of 1,000/- was also given to the trainees on 50% leaves for making of leaf plates and leaf bowls subsidy for purchase of raw material and the earn more Most of the weavers are either beneficiaries had to return the amount In 5 working on behalf of the Khadl & Village equal Instalments of As 100/- The Industries Industries Board where they are also feeling department also provided Rs. 1500/- for handicapped as the various government construction of sheds on 50 percent subSidy agencies do not provide adequate yarn for baSIS. Due to various reasons like the keeping them fully engaged Most of the shortage of raw material. inadequate demand weavers work for their local customers who and lack of Interest In the craft, most of the supply them the home spun yarn These 20 weavers also can not compete In the open survey It was revealed by the weavers that the market as they do not either have the Khadl Board has now started supplYing raw capacity to purchase the yarn of their own or material after a gap of two years. A weaver lack craftsmanship to compete With the mill can prepare 40-50 metres of "KhaddarH In a made cloth month If he/she works for some time I.e upto one hour in a day regularly. Rs.O 75 to Rs 1/­ The weaving actIVIties in the Village also per metre IS pai~ as wages Similarly ·pattoo· attracted attention of the local people In of 1 kg wool yarn can be woven In 3-4 days If organising ·Slr Jla Lal Wool Workers Society" he/she does this work regularly The labour as early as 1945 Its first election was held In charges for a Pattoo vary from Rs 10/- to Rs. 1957 and the present Pradhan namely Shn 15/-. A "thann" of Khaddar normally consists Mangat Ram was elected as the Director of of 10-11 mtrs, of thin cloth and 5-6 mtrs of the SOCIety The society functioned till 1964 thick cloth. Even the females do not work when it had to be closed due to finanCial whole time partly due to lack of demand and constraints, guidance as well as lack of due to their Involvement in other household opportunities of work. Shri Mangat Ram also duties. For reviVing the craft, the weavers are worked as chairman of the Block of the opinion that the Government should Development Committee Pragpur and is also supply raw matenal and arrange for assured on the governing body of Scheduled Castes & market and patronise the products According Scheduled Tribes Corporation, a unit of the to some of the weavers the articles prepared state government. At the time of survey, some by them are not purchased by the department of the weavers organised themselves under on the grounds that the same IS conSidered the leadership of Smt. Satya Devi with a view sub·standard and further there IS not enough to promote the weaving profeSSion by demand throughout the year ensuring the supply of adequate yarn and solving other problems Even this group could The weavers mostly cater to the not mitigate the ills of the sick industry as it reqUirements of the local people and of the could manage the supply of raw matenal only nearby Villages. Most of the households rear once In the last four years. This group IS goats and sheep for meeting the reqUirement virtually on papers due to lack of Initiative on of mutton and wool and they hardly have any the part of majority of the members. surplus wool for seiling In the market. The wool so obtained from the sheep IS cleaned Shri Mangat Ram mentioned that there is and spun for prepanng pattoos In the lower good concentration of weavers In the Village, areas and paWs and shawls In the upper but due to lack of enterpreneurship, the craft IS areas. With the opening of more employment being carried out by the females to opportUnities, spread of education as well as supplement the family Income. He was of the non-availability of pastures, It has been opinion that this craft can rejuvenate If the observed that most of the households do not Govt. supports the local people by starting a intend to rear sheep. In these circumstances, Community Production Centre. However, the weavers, although know the craft, but they there is a proposal to start a training cum have to remain unemployed or under Production Centre at Har, which will faCIlitate employed for major penod In a year In the opting of weaving work by the local people order to revive the craft, the facilities of raw and steps be taken to popularise the products material and marketing as well as patronage outside the state as the local people due to of the products have to be prOVided. The high per capita income, low density and labour charges for the ma'1ufacture of a shawl climatic conditions hardly provide adequate vary between Rs 20 00 and 25 00 demand for the products During the course of depending upon the deSign to be woven The 21

Khadl & Village Industries Board used to returned a population of 2,701 persons supply the raw matenal to the weavers comprising of 359 households Being located through some known persons Even this on the National Highway, It has got the arrangement also did not work satisfactorily faCilities of post office, bank, telephone and The Board has now established a centre at primary school The nearest police station, Rasoot village at a distance of 3 kms. from the marketing centre, middle and secondary referent village from where the weavers can schools, degree college, telegraph and have the raw material The weavers are paid Industrial training centre facilities are available wages on fixed rate In order to make the at KulJu The Village IS also being served by a products more competitive as we" as weavers' cooperative society at Ramshlla at a attractive, the government should take distance of 4 kms from the referent Village Initiative In supplYing the varrous equlpments The nearest railway station IS at Joglndernagar which will go a long way in improving the at a distance of 130 kms. There IS no Impact quality of the products. In this way the craft of railways on the development of the area In can be a big source of employment to the most part of the state as at present only two local people. narrow gauge hnes I e Kalka-Shlmla and Pathankot-Jogrndernagar serve the limited area of the state The Village IS also having the Banogl VIllage: Banogi Village is located at a medical, dnnklng water, power supply and distance of 5 kms from the tahSil and district irrigatIon faCilIties The break-up of populatIOn headquarters of Kullu on the National Highway With regard to caste, religion, mother tongue No. 21 As per 1981 census, the village etc. IS given in the following statement II 4

Statement 11.4

Population Classified by Caste/Religion and Mother Tongue (1985-86) Survey Data-1986 Survey

- Total Population Name of Caste Religion Mother No of Tongue House- holds p M F 7 2 3 4 5 6

1,501 854 Ra}put Hmdu KuJvl 291 2,355 18 14 2 Lahar (S C) 4 32 71 42 3 Koh (S C) 16 113 250 180 70 4 Chamar (S C) 54

1,770 980 Total 365 2,750

As the village IS conveniently located near Village. During the field enqUiry, It has been Kullu, which is a tourist resort, there IS a good observed that there is hardly any household in scope for manufacturrng as well as the village which is completely dependent on marketing of shawls and this was the one the weaving Industry or In other words, the reason of concentration of weavers In thiS persons have to work in some other 22 occupation to supplement the household entrepreneurs they were paid some Income. allowances in lieu of the work done Unlike the other lower areas of the state, both males and Out of 54 households belonging to chamar females in thiS Village are engaged In weaving community in the village, 21 are engaged profeSSion From 1977-78 onwards, the either fully or partly In the weaving profession stipend money was brought down to Rs 3D/­ None of the respondents could tell the per month which IS not at all sufficient from reasons and penod of their giving up the any standard Hence, the persons having traditional occupation of shoe making and aptitude for weaving are not attracted With repairing. The common reply which they gave tough competition from Ludhlana shawls, the was that they were compelled by the penod of training IS not sufficient for becoming Circumstances to give up their traditional a good artisan The charges for prepanng profession mainly due to Inadequate and un­ shawls vary from Rs 15/- to Rs 1,000 economiC earnings. With the spread of depending upon the design etc whereas the education and Increase In per capita Income, charges for pattoo and patti are almost the there IS a definite change In the consumer's same as reported In respect of other Villages preference for gOing Into better and attractive Some of the weavers are getting raw matenal quality of shoes rather than to go In for the from the Handicrafts & Handloom Desl shoes Besides, with the flooding of Corporation's centre at Kullu whereas others market by the PVC shoes, there IS hardly any are dOing weaving work with the pnvate demand for the local shoes Some of these manufacturers Most of the weavers were of households are working on the Pit looms and the view that the Handicrafts & Handloom more enterpreneur households have set up Corporation should help them In a big way one or more fly loom shuttles In their houses with regard to the supply of raw matenal Majonty of weavers of thiS village have not been benefitted by the vanous government In 1966, a weaver's society was set up by programmes in the form of subsidy for the Shn Lajju Ram with a membership of 12 and purchase of raw matenal and fly-shuttles and with share capital of Rs. 10/- each. The raw construction of sheds due to the fear that they matenal I e wool was purchased by the would not be able to repay the same Unlike society from the government department @ the weavers in the lower areas, all the Rs. 500-7.00 per kg and most of the members of the households In thiS Village members were working on Pit looms for the participate In weaving actIVIties and the hours manufacture of pattoo Even thiS society had of work depend upon the demand for their to be disbanded dunng the year 1970-71 when products. Dunng the course of enquiry, some the government stopped the supply of raw of the weavers namely S/Shn Tula Ral'}1 and matenal Amar Chand were really prepanng the shawls which were very much catchlnq to the eyes of the customers. Invanably, the pit looms were Much can be done to increase their output found InSide the rooms whereas the khaddls and consequently their Income, but, they have been Installed In the open varandah prefer to continue with their traditional Pit resulting In the stoppage of work dunng the looms/fly shuttles of weaving techniques as rainY and winter seasons Almost all the they are convinced that the other methods weavers receive training from one source or may not SUit to their condition. Most of the the other Most of the weavers received weavers could not avail the loan faCIlities training from the training centre at Kullu where under various programmes as they had they were paid Rs 45/- per month by the nothing to offer as surety. Further, they are not government while with the pnvate confident about their repayment capacity The 23 first fly loom was installed in the village by Shn Most of the weavers purchase small Jogi Ram s/o Shri LaJju Ram who started the quantity of raw matenal from the local market weaving society In 1966 He took the initiative of Kullu and the rates for different vanetles of to Impart training to about 100 people of yarn at the time of survey are as follows - Gohar, Balhl and Seubag villages In 1986, the weaving charges were as follows - Ruffle Rs 7 00 to 8 00 per 50 Pattoo (plain) Rs 20 00 to 25 00 grams

Pattoo (design) Rs 50 00 to 500 00 Cashmilon Rs 6 00 per 50 grams.

Shawl (Plain) Rs. 20 00 Ruffle (coloured) Rs. 8.50 per 50 grams

Shawl (Design) Rs. 2500 to 10000 Most of the yarn sold in Kullu market IS purchased from Ludhiana and Amntsar There IS great scope for Improving the markets of Punjab There IS no control on yarn marketing and supply of yarn which IS pnces available In the whole-sale market In plenty With the setting up of spinning mills at Kullu, Kullu area IS also known for the weaving of the things have Improved to a great extent. border stnps which are used for shawls as well The weavers are not realising any as for caps Generally, the border IS of the size remunerative wages in the present set up, but, of 5 centimeters by 4 metres It IS sold @ Rs with more Income, they Will be able to Improve 7.00 to 11 00 per meter depending upon the their living and working conditions which in design. The borders are prepared on smaller turn Will provide them better standard of living size of looms and the job is mostly done by the persons who are more perfect in their job as It requires combination of different The weavers of the village avail the facilities colours in the weaving process Pattoo of 'Tan a' (warp) from Kullu market when they reqUires one kg woollen yarn for weft and 300 have to prepare 10 or more shawls of the grams of ruffle or woollen yarn for warp. same colour and design. On an average, Rs. Insplte of the available market, the local 5000 are being charged for the 'Tana' (warp) weavers cannot compete with Ludhiana made of 50 shawls. On an average, the weavers shawls which are being meticulously copied charge the follOWing rates for different articles out With regard to design and the cost of manufactured at the time of survey· production is less as these are being 1. Shawl (Plain) Rs 20 00 manufactured on power looms. The things can be Improved to certain extent If the 2. Shawl (Kullvi) Rs. 25 00 to 10000 weavers are organised in the shape of cooperative society which Will make 3 Shawl (all over design) Rs 200 00 remarkable progress both In respect of quality and quantity of production and establishing 4 Pattoo (Plain) Rs. 20.00 to 25 00 the sale net works

5 Chaddar Rs 2000 The Bashing wool workers cooperative Industrial Society Ltd. Kullu 6 Pattoo (design) Rs. 50.00 to 500.00 The society was Initially started With 12 7. Pattoo (Beldar) Rs. 50000 to 100000 members in 1972 and its membership 24 Increased to 47 In 1975 and thereafter there shawls, Rs 10/- to 40/- on design shawls, Rs has been no Increase In Its membership. The 15/- to 20/- on design ·pattoo" and about Rs society IS pnmanly Intended to provide raw 10/- on plain "pattoo". Dunng the course of matenal to ItS members and also arrange for field survey, It was disclosed by the President the marketing of products In order to Increase of the society that as they have to compete in the activities of the society a loan of Rs the open market hence they charge only 20,000 was given by the govt In 1981-82 In reasonable profit to keep the society In sound the year 1984 society obtained another loan of working condition In recent years the margin Rs 6,000/- from the govt and also shifted to of profit has been reduced It IS because of the ItS own premises where 16 "Khadd/s" had also fact that the cost of products being been Installed Another loan of Rs 50,000/­ manufactured In Ludhlana on the power was given dunng 1984-85 At the time of looms IS less as compared to Kullu products survey S/Shn Jogi Ram, Amar Chand, Plyare which are being manufactured on the hand Chand and Shiv Chand were functioning as operated looms President, Vice-President, Secretary and Cashier respectively The society purchases Bari Village: The Village is located at a raw material at competitive rates either from distance of 23 kms from the tahSil and district Ludhiana or from Amritsar In Punjab and the headquarters of Kullu on the National Highway amount of slng[e purchase ranges between No 21 towards Manah In fact, the national Rs 8,000/- to 10,000/- The raw matena[ IS highway passes through the Village distributed among the members who are paid Joglndernagar at a distance of 148 kms IS the for the work done for the society The charges nearest railway station The Industrial Training for various manufactured Items vary as per the Institute and Degree College are located at quality, design and pattern. Siml[ar[y, the time Kullu and the nearest market is at Patll Kuhl taken for prepanng various products I e The nearest pOlice station is at Manali at a shawls (p[ain and designed), mufflers "patt/s", distance of 17 kms from the village The "pattoos," "chaddars" and borders depends nearest primary and secondary school, post upon the pattern and design. The society IS office and telegraph faCilities are available at making available ItS products to the apex Katrain at a distance of 2 kms The Village IS body. Again, the rates of various Items are also having basIC faCIlities of drinking water governed by the quality of yarn useq In the and veterinary dispensary Statement 11.5 manufacture of various products as well as the gives the rehglon/castewise population and design/pattern adopted. Generally the society mother tongue at the time of survey and is charges a profit of Rs 5/- to 7/- on plain given below

Statement II 5

Population cross-classified by caste/religion/mother tongue (1985-86)-1986 Survey

Name of caste Religion Mother No of Total population tongue house- holds p M F

2 3 4 5 6 7

Kulvi 89 551 292 259

2 Koh (S C) 42 234 126 108

3 Lohar (S C) 33 188 104 84 25

2 3 4 5 6 7

4 Brahmin 20 157 88 69

5 Sunyar (Goldsmith) 2 10 6 4

6 Klnnaura Budhlst Klnnaurl 35 186 99 87

Total 221 1326 715 611

At the time of survey about 35 households Klnnaura weaving families are In great in the village were engaged either wholly or demand due to supenor texture and designs partially In weaving work Most of the Most of the weavers have returned that they weavers belonging to the village have had a flOUrishing occupation few years back, migrated in the distant past to the village from but, on the one hand they are facing tough Kinnaur district of the state. Most of the competition from the units being run on households are dOing the weaving work on fly commercial basIs who are In an advantageous shuttle looms as compared to the pit looms POSition both In respect of purchase of raw which they have installed either In the matenal and disposal of the products and varandah or in a small room The working on secondly they are facing the challenge of the the looms Installed In the varandah has fashion waves which IS sweeping the entire constraints due to vagaries of weather Mos1 area resulting mto the change In consumer's of the weavers In this Village are profeSSionals preference Unlike the weavers of other and carrying the same from generation to Villages, the weavers of thiS Village also generation. The peak working months are prepare "gudmas" which are used for bedding August/September and March/ Apnl due to purposes The weaving of carpets IS also on·set of the winter season and the local fairs becoming popular due to better margin of Most of the weavers purchase raw matenal profits and ready market There has not been from the local market and sell their products much change In the design and pattern of mostly to the tounsts visiting from other states shawls which are mostly of the geometrical The wages, cost of raw matenal and the tIme Kullu design. However, due to the Increased taken In the manufacture of various Items are demand from the tOUTIsts for floral designs, directly co-related by size and design of the the pattern and design of shawls have products as well as the quality of raw matenal undergone changes Due to Inadequate used Kullu, Itself IS located In the valley resources and artistiC know-hOW, the weavers stretching from Bajaura to Manall, With a are some what handicapped to change the distance of 52 kms , but, the entire district IS designs frequently They are of the view that suffiCiently hilly and due to local customs and the design should be evolved by climatiC conditions, the use of woollen research/training organisations and should be garments is very common Most of the Introduced to the weavers The raw material females use the woollen 'pattoo' to wrap over should be made available adequately and the the suit (Glddl) Another factor for the use of time lag In the production and disposal of the woollen clothes In the area IS that most of the products should be reduced to the minimum households rear good number of sheep and The vanous government agencies should also spinning IS also done by the members of the organise the workshops so that the local households. Hence, weaving is more of a weavers may become more perfect In their art household industry in almost all the Villages of Some of the weavers also suggested that their the district. The products prepared by the productS should be sent to other states so thatlhe.demand· may be generated. 26

It IS believed that most of the patterns and Generally, the standard length vanes from 2 2 designs of "Kullu Shawls" originated from mtrs to 2 5 mtrs , but the local women use Klnnauras as the Klnnaur belle normally uses shawls which are 4-5 mtrs In length and IS a designed 'Doru' (type of dress) and the generally known as 'Glddl' which IS wrapped migrated weavers may have introduced these upto the shoulders The shawls of thiS designs on the Kullu shawls With the speCification are only used In Kullu district development of means of transportation and awareness among the people, the tOUrists Pashmina thronged the area and the shawl industry got further Impetus During 1926, the government Nurpur, a tahSil and sub-diVISional opened Industrial Training Institute at Kullu headquarters of Kangra district has earned and weaving was also Incorporated as one of name for the manufacture of pashmma shawls the trades Since then persons desirous to In the state and this Industry can be settle In the weaving profession were rejuvenated If concerted efforts are made In encouraged to get training In 1938-39, a thiS direction. It Will not be an exaggeration to promising youth, Shrl Ved Ram, received say that pashmma shawls of Nurpur are training from thiS institute and later on he supenor in quality as compared to the Similar undertook intensive studies of various aspects products manufactured In other states like relating to Kullu shawls The Introduction of Jammu & Kashmir Sut, due to lack of various deslgns/patterns was the result of organisational faCIlities, Nurpur pashmma dedlcated/mlsslonary work done by the shawls have not been able to make a dent In young man He was also Instrumental In big markets like Deihl etc There IS a pashmma starting the Shutti Weavers Cooperative weaving centre maintained by Khadl Soard at Society engaged In the manufacture of Nurpur which not only produces quality shawls, chaddars and mufflers etc not only In shawls, but, also Imparts tramlng to the the distnct, but, also In the state It has 13 Interested artisans Pashmma wool IS branches not only In the state, but, at other purchased by the offiCials of Khadl Board from places In the country The success of the the breeders of Kullu, Manall, Lahul & SPltl, Shuttl Cooperative Society has given birth to but most of the pashmma IS purchased many other Similar cooperative societies In the directly by the traders from Ladakh During the diStriCt, but they are stili no match for the year 1987-88, about 23 qUintals of pashmina Shuttl Weavers Cooperative Society both In wool was procured @ Rs 216/- per kg from respect of quality as well as quantity of the the traders based at Manali out of which about products Secause of the efforts of Shn Ved 8 qUintals of pashmina was utilised for Ram and other entrepr;,eneurs, the Kullu shawl preparing shawls, pattoos and chaddars Industry, In fact, passed from childhood to valued at Rs 2.26 lacs The pashmina wool so adolescent stage The government has prepared IS got cleaned and then spun on the also formulated various programmes to make takll before shawls and chaddars are the wool and shawl Industry more Viable not prepared The Khadl Board has ItS another only In Kullu but also In other areas of the unit at Mandl where the products are finished state Some of the more Important before these are marketed These products patterns/deslgns of shaWls observed are are sold through various depots in the state bulbul chasham, all-over Dhungrr, stripped, and outSide the state The Board has spinning flower based, border stripped, etc The colour units at Rangat, Kotla, Jawall and RaJa-ka scheme of the deSign IS also finalised by the Talab The full length of the shawl IS 225 x weavers themselves which depends more 1 25 mtrs while that of chaddar it is 2 50 x upon the Tana (warp) Length of the 1 50 mtrs and muffler 1 50 x 0 30 mtrs In the shawls largely depends upon their uses centre, there are 7 regular employees and the 27 total number of dally wagers employed dUring The centre produces annually about 14,202 each season varies from 200 to 300 Besides, sq mtrs carpet. The size of the carpet there are other weaving units like Khurana normally ranges from 1 1/2. x 1 1/2, to Industries located at Nurpur There are some 12' x 9'. Other products of the centre Include households who are also manufacturing woollen Tibetan jackets, Tibetan costumes, pashmma shawls and seiling their products Ladles boots, hand bags, shoulder bags, locally The main difficulty faced by the purses, Tibetan beddings, etc weavers IS Inadequate availability of raw material and marketing faCilities Another (ii) Tibetan Refugee Self Help Handicraft factor which IS retarding growth of pashmma Society, Shimla-9 Industry IS great fluctuation In prices of the raw material Efforts are being made to provide The handicraft society was established In raw material and fly shuttles to the persons November, 1965 In Summerhill area and was subsequently shifted In 1975 to Shlmla-9 By 1968, the Handicraft Society had 8 workers Carpet Weaving and It grew slowly and steadily and ItS workers Including some trainees, children and office Another Item which the weavers of this area staff numbered 106 In 1968 The workers are prefer IS the carpet weaving The wool IS paid monthly salary depending upon the supplied to the weavers by the whole-salers of IndiVidual ability and skill The society also Amntsar alongwlth the deSign and sIze of the pays some stipend to each trainee The carpet The wages are directly linked wIth the society IS manufactUring carpets, Tibetan number of knotts in the carpets The carpet woollen cloth, etc Its products are marketed weaving IS also being undertaken by the to foreign countries on direct orders and are Jlbetans settled In the State at Dharamsala, also supplied to Tibet House and other Dalhousie, Kamrau & Sataun etc Bnef Tibetan ASSOCiations description of their activIties IS given (iii) Tibetan Refugees Handicraft Centre hereunder - Phuntsokling Dalhousie (H.P.) (I) Tibetan Handicraft Production-cum­ The centre was established by the Sale Cooperative Industrial Society Government of India In November, 1959 In Ltd. Mcleod Ganj, Dharamsala order to train the refugees In their traditional craft and eventually rehabilitate them In these The Tibetan Women's CooperatIve trades SuperVISion of the centre was ASSOCiation, as It was Initially called, was taken over by Tibetan Government in eXile In started in April, 1963 wIth the aim and object July, 1962 The crafts practised and taught In of providing work and assistance to the the centre are carpets and cotton cloth, TIbetan Women especIally poor, old and InfIrm weaving, spinnIng, tailOring, painting, shoe­ wIth 45 members and a total capital of Rs making, etc The centre specialises in Tibetan 14,258/- donated by His Holiness The Dalai carpets, dresses, blankets, flags, etc The Lama In 1969, It was regIstered under the carpets of the centre are rated among the best name of Tibetan Handicraft Productlon-cum­ produced In various handicraft centres In Sale Cooperative Industrial Society The India The centre has one shop In DalhOUSie centre IS of the same type as many other self which prOVides out-lets for goods The supporting centres In India and Nepal It has products are also supplied to HIS Holiness 90 highly skilled weavers, 12 trimmers, 5 The Dalal Lama Chantable Trust Branch expert designers, 20 spinners, 10 each Handicraft Export New Deihl or sent to rewlnders and taIlors and 3 Thangka painters customers from abroad. 28

Besides, the Tibetan carpet workshops and the Units are being sold through the sale societies are also functlomng at some places outlets of Khadl & Village Industnes Board In Kangra and Sirmaur Districts, like Sataun, Kamrao, Puruwala, etc In Sirmaur Dlstt. Most of the weavers who are engaged In the occupation for earning their livelihood Silk weaving IS one of the Important industry have installed fly shuttles in their houses, In India but In Himachal Pradesh silk fibres are either With the help of vanous government mostly produced by the government centres agencies or from their own resources whereas The Industnes department of the state the casual and non-professional weavers are government has established nursery and stili dOing the work on pit looms In their mulberry farms at 37 sUitable places In the houses It has been observed that the Income state where cocoons are reared and from weaving remains extremely low and most dlstnbuted at a nominal pnce The reeling of the workers Intend to use the profession the work IS mostly done at Mandl. The moment they get the alternative opportunities government established silk weaving factory It IS not understood why most of the weavers at Nurpur dunng the year 1965 This factory IS have not availed of the benefits When they under the Small Industnal Development are eligible for the same due to their being as Corporation a unit of the Himachal Pradesh Scheduled Castes or backward class persons government The Industry could not make a So many programmes have been executed for headway for want of raw material as well as their betterment like supply of fly shuttles at lack of good weavers. In spite of the fact that subsidized rate8, concesslonal rates of the climate In most parts of Himachal pradesh Interest, but, most of them have not made the IS favourable for growing mulberry and rearing efforts of coming forward for these silk worms, much could not be achieved In concessions which shows their ignorance this respect and the Industry IS stili In ItS about the facIlities Infancy In the state In order to provide additional income to the rural people, the Particulars of craftsmen engaged in the mulberry propagation and cocoon rearing can craft prove more handy and endeavours should be 15 households of weavers were selectecf made to popularise and develop the silk from Banogl village, 13 from Ban, 20 from Har Industry. Village and 12 from Lohara for filling In schedule-C In addition, schedules In respect Durrie making: The Industry IS mostly of the households who had left the craft were confined as a household Industry and there IS also filled The Village/sex wise population of hardly any unit which IS being run on the selected households IS depicted In commercial baSIS The products of some of statement 11.6 below

Statement II 6

The number of households and population of selected Villages (85-86)

Name of Name of No of Total PopulatIon District the Village household selected Persons Male Female

2 3 4 5 6

Kullu Banogl 15 72 40 32

Kullu Ban 13 82 39 43 29

2 3 4 5 6

Kangra Har 20 121 62 59

Una Lohara 12 78 41 37

Total 60 353 182 171

The weavers In these villages belong to Chamar, Kabirpanthl and Kmnaura surveyed households IS given In statement II 7 commUnities Caste-wise distribution of the below:

Statement II 7

Caste/tribe-wise distribution of the population of selected households

Name of Name of Total No Total Population as the village the Castel of House- per survey data Tnbe holds (selected) Persons Males Females

2 3 4 5 6

Ban091 Chamar 15 72 40 32

2 Har Kablrpanthl 20 121 62 59

3 Lohara Kablrpanthl 12 78 41 37

4 Ban Klnnaura 13 82 39 43

Total 60 353 182 171

From the above statement It IS eVident that faced by them In general, the weavers are not the craftsmen In the surveyed villages belong being dlscnmlnated amongst the various to the Scheduled Castes and Scheduled castes as the local people VISit the weavers' Tribes households By traditional customs, the places for getting their Jobs done However, Scheduled Castes do not enJoy the social the earnings are not commensuratlng With the status at par With those belonging to higher labour put-In Hence, people are not castes. No doubt the concept of enamoured to enter into the profeSSion Till untouchability is dying fast, but, still there are sometime past, the profeSSion was confined some observations that the Scheduled Castes mostly to the Jul/aha community In the lower persons are not being treated at par With the hills, but, now It has been observed that duly higher castes. Because of social segregation it trained persons belonging to other castes are IS natural that the Scheduled Castes are stili also entering Into the profeSSion Like other suffering from inferiority complex In the case professionals In the villages, there was a of Scheduled Tnbes dlrle to age-old customs, patron-client relationship between a weaver the tribal people are looked upon as and the local rural people With the changing backward Except these age-old traditional economic and social system, thiS system is customs, no other social disability is being also fast declining. It will not be wrong to 30 presume that so far as the state IS concerned Demographic particulars of the craftsmen: except a few pockets In Kullu district which generally cater to the demand of tOUrists, the Statement II 8 given below depicts the Industry In the other areas of the state mainly educational level of the head of the household meets the local requirements and IS mostly cross classified by age concentrated In the rural areas

Statement II 8

Age, sex and educational level of the head of the households of the practising households

Age of Sex Educational Level TradltlonalOccut;)atlOn Head of Male Female 1111- Llte- Primary Middle Hight Weav- Agncul- Shoe the house- terate rate Hr Ing tural making hold without Sec and Labourer educa- above tlonal level

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

15-35 22 9 7 5 18 4

36-40 6 2 4 2 6 2

41-45 3 2 4

46-50 3 3 3

51-55 8 6 9

56-60 4 2 4

61 + 8 5 3 9

Total 54 6 21 14 13 10 2 53 6

From the above statement It IS eVident that households or 35 percent are Illiterate majority of the heads of households selected Among Illiterates as many as 4 are In the age are In the age group of 15-35 years followed group of 36-40 and 5 In 61 + years Of the by those In the age group of 51-55 and 61 + surveyed households, the traditional years which Implies that the youngsters are occupation In respect of 53 has been reported not lagging behind In adopting their traditional as weaving, 6 as agnculturallabourer and 1 as occupation and the elders are making the shoe-making. best use of their experience and expertise Out of 60 surveyed heads of the households, 2 are matriculates, 10 middle while 13 are The age-group-wlse distribution of primary pass and 14 literates without any population of households is depicted In educational standard As many as 21 heads of statement" 9 31

Statement II 9

Age group-wIse populatIon of surveyed households

Age-group Total Population

Persons Males Females

2 3 4 0-14 133 78 55

15-54 185 87 98

55-69 28 14 14

70+ 7 3 4

Total 353 182 171

Of the 353 persons In the surveyed households, 51 56 percent constitute males corresponding figure for female was 112 The and 48 44 percent females Of the total 182 following Statement reveals the educational males, 101 were In age-group of 15-69 and level of the surveyed population 32

Statement

Village-wise educational standard

Name of the Illiterate Literate Pnmary Village p M F P M F P M F

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Banogl 35 10 25 25 19 6 11 10

Ban 48 19 29 12 6 6 13 8 5

Har 38 12 26 25 17 8 34 14 20

Lohara 35 18 17 14 6 8 17 7 10

Total 156 59 97 76 48 28 75 39 36 33

11.10 of the surveyed households ,

Middle Maulc or Graduate and Hr Sec above

p M F P M F P M F 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 1

8 5 3

13 11 2 8 6 2 3 2

5 4 7 6

27 21 6 16 13 3 3 2 34

The above data reveals that the majority of 13 members each Only 5 households had the persons (65 72 percent) were either returned themselves as migrants from other Illiterate or having not attained any educational districts of the state but even these standard. There were only 13 males and 3 households were staYing In the Village for females who had studied up to matrlc or more than 20 years and the main reason of higher secondary and 2 males and 1 female their migration was given as marriage were graduate and above Of the surveyed households as many as 47 belong to Hindu and 13 to BuddhIst community Invariably the Traditional occupation returned In respect households returned their mother tongue of of 53 households IS weaving 6 households their districts such as Kangn, KmnaufJ and have returned their traditional occupation as Kulvi to which they originally belonged Males agricultural labourers and one as shoe­ were the heads of the households In respect making. In the case of 22 households no of 54 households and the females In respect dIversIty of occupatIon has been observed of the remaining 6 Most of these households while In the case of remaining 38 households were multi· members as depicted In table 5 17 the persons were working as cultivators, households had 5 members each, 16 had agncultural labourers and Govt servants etc between 6 to 7 members each, 10 had 4 Village-wise distribution of workers and non­ members each, 6 had between 8 to 9 workers in the selected households IS given members while 2 households had more than below. 35

Statement 1111

Village-wise dlstnbutlon of workers and non-workers by age and sex

Name of the 0-14 15-34 Village Wor- Non- Wor- Non- kers wor- kers wor- kers kers

M F M F M F M F

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 Banogl 2 21 7 12 13 2 3

Ban 14 15 12 4 3 16

Har 29 17 10 12 9 9

Lohara 14 14 10 6 5 7

Total 2 78 53 44 35 19 35

35-59 60+

Workers Non-workers Workers Non-workers Name of the Village

M F M F M F M F 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 5 3 3 Banogl

7 7 2 Ban

10 12 3 2 3 2 3 Har

7 8 3 2 Lohara

29 30 3 7 5 4 8 Total 36

The above statement shows that the Non-workers majority of the workers were In the age-group 15-34 years followed by 35-59 years There were only two female workers In the age­ The Information regarding non-workers group 0-14 years. Twelve workers (7 males & population In the surveyed households IS 5 females) belonged to 60+ age group In given In table No 17 Out of 201 non. other words bulk of the workers I e 90 79 workers, as many as 106 or 52 74 percent percent were In the age-group of 15·59 years have been reported as wholetlme students, 45 (males being 91 25 percent and females 90 28 dependents, 28 engaged In household-duties percent) The data given In table 13 depicts and 18 as infants that 21 male workers are Ilhterate, 18 primary, 16 are middle and 17 have no educational standard. Types of Looms It has been observed In the field survey that the pit looms are being Of the female workers, 48 have been replaced by fly shuttles, but, the SWitch-over IS returned as Illiterate, 4 literate Without any neither fast nor complete as fly-shuttles are educational standard, 18 pnmary and one being Installed only In the Villages where the each middle and matnc The percentage of government has given some sort of subSidy or non-workers to total surveyed population other incentives to the weavers or where the comes to 56 94 percent (54 04 percent for household IS dOing the weaving work on a males and 57 89 percent for females) whole-time baSIS Out of 60 households selected for the survey as many as 29 households had reported operating on the Plt­ As per table 14 of the total workers, 73 looms and the remaining 31 households were males and 62 females have reported weaving dOing the work With the help of fly-shuttle as their traditional occupation, 6 males and 9 looms It has also been reported that most of females as agricultural labourers and 1 each the fly-shuttles are either Installed In the of male and female as engaged In shoe varandah of the house or at some other place making Of the males and females engaged In In the compound where the working hours are the traditional occupation of weaving 27 males affected due to weather conditions Only 8 and 53 females are stili continuing In the households have Installed the looms In the profeSSion whereas the remaining workers rooms where the households are hVlng Only 4 had at one occasion or the other sWitched households are haVing their looms In over to other occupations/professions 4 each separate sheds It was also observed that of males and females working as agricultural some of the households were even having labourers as traditional occupation sWitched more than one type of looms The Village-wise over to weaving work Similarly persons details regarding the installation of looms In engaged In shoe making also sWitched over to various types of accommodation IS given weaving below In statement II 12 37

Statement 1112

No of looms cross classified by type of accommodation

Name of the No of No of households having fly-shuttle looms village households having Pit In open Inside In shed looms varandah the room

2 3 4 5

Banogl 13 4 2

Ban 3 8 3

Har 7 4

Lohara 6 7 4

Total 29 23 8 4

Non-practlsmg households Information femaies fall In the age group of 15-69 years Of regarding the households who were practising the total 55 males, 16 each are Illiterates and the craft at one time but had left It later-on was literates without educational level, 15 pnmary, also collected from the selected villages. The 4 middle, 3 matric or higher secondary and 1 number of such households selected from graduate and above The corresponding each village IS given In Statement II 13 below figures for females are 28, 11, 8, 2, 4 and ntl respectively The data regarding literacy has been given In table ~ Statement 1113

Name of the village Number of households selected As per table 3, 8 households belong to Kablrpanth/, 5 to Chamar community and 7 to 2 Kmnuara community Males have been reported as heads of 17 households while the Banogl 5 females are heads of 3 households As per Ban 7 table 4, 2 households are Single member and each one of the households have 2,3,4 and 10 Har 5 to 12 members, 7 households have 5 Lohara 3 members each, 5 households 6-7 members and 2 households 8-9 members each Majority

Total 20 of the households I e 17 fall In the category of non-migrants and 2 households have As per table 1 population covered by migrated for more than 20 years while 1 these households comes to 108, males being household and migrated dUring the last 11-20 55 and females 53 Of these, as many as 41 ye~rs The age-group wise distribution of fall In the age group of 0-14 years, 2 In 70 + workers In respect of non-practising The remaining 65 persons, 31 males and 34 households IS given below. 38

Statement II 14 facilities, the weavers are feeling handicapped In carrying out their profeSSion Distribution of workers and non-workers by age­ group As per table 11, out of 66 non-workers, 34 have been reported as full time students and Age-group Workers Non-workers 15 each engaged In household duties and M F M F were dependent, etc 2 3 4 5 History, growth and development of the 0-14 21 18 craft

15-34 14 5 4 14 About the history, growth and development 35-59 11 6 6 of the craft In the villages, none of the 60 selected households could furnish any 60+ 3 2 meaningful information on the subject except that the craft IS being practised In the Total 29 13 26 40 household for the last 2-3 generations However, the most plausible explanation can be the concentration of population In these From the above statement It is eVident that areas With the spread of literacy and other 38 89 percent of the total persons in these avenues of employment, the caste based households have been reported as workers, profeSSions are fast eroding. males being 52 73 percent and females 24 53 percent 2 workers I.e 1 each of male and Of the 60 households, as many as 55 were female fall In the age group of 0-14 years and of the view that there IS overall Increase In the 4 workers (males 3 and female 1) fall In the number of households engaged In age group of 60+ Of the total population of weaving, but, thiS assertion by the households 108 as many as 44 are Illiterates, 27 literates may not be true If overall position emerging Without any educational level and 23 pnmary from different parts of the state IS taken pass The other categories i e middle, matnc, Into account. It may not be out of place to graduate and above constitute 12 96 mention that except small pockets In Kullu percent The break-up of educational area where shawls are being manufactured levels has been given In table 8 mostly to cater to the reqUirements of the tOUrists in addition to the local demand, thiS Table 10 reveals that of the total males and profeSSion IS being left by the artisans due to females as many as 38 males and 4 females vanous reasons such as non-availability of raw had left weaving profession due to one reason matenal as well as easy availability of the mill or the other. MajOrity of the persons who had made textiles which are cheap and more left the profeSSion had reported that the attractive It may also be mentioned that With weaving is providing them neither full time regard to the per capita Income, the state IS employment nor remunerative wages It was well placed as compared to many states of the observed dUring the field survey that most of country as a result, demand for the weaver's the persons earn more by preparing "patal" products IS shnnklng fast In the case of 58 and "Duna" (leaf plates and bowls) or by households, the occupation IS hereditary and collecting fuel wood With the ushering of one household took up thiS profeSSion after white revolution, people are more Inclined in getting proper training and the remaining maintaining the milch animals Secondly, due households could not find sUitable to paucity of raw material and marketing employment else-where CHAPTER III

Process of Learning Perfection In an art can The trainees with the private manufacturers be achieved only by constant learning and the Initially got wages at the rate of Rs 100/- per process of learning for an artisan IS a month for first two months and thereafter they necessity Continuous and strenuous efforts were given the wages on piece rate basIs put In by an artisan can make one expert The Some of the artisans of Banogl Village got art of weaving IS more delicate and one can training from the Industrial Training Centre at attain specialisation only through the process Kullu and they were paid monthly stipend of of learning In the rural areas the art of Rs 45/- (Rs 30 by the Industries department weaving Invariably passes from generation to and Rs 15/- by the welfare deptt ) The Welfare generation Now, with the opening of Industrial Department, however stopped their training centres by the various government contribution In the year 1977-78 and thereafter agencies where the admiSSion IS on the basIs the trainees were paid only Rs 30/- per of merit, persons belonging to castes/sects month Keeping In view the Job & craftmanshlp other than weaving castes/sects are also most of the respondents Informed that the admitted for training and are given various period of one year's training IS not suffiCient to incentives Besides where the craft IS being become a good artisan practised as profession some of the persons In Har Village training of one month was have acquired the craftsmanship by working arranged through the Instructors of Himachal as apprentices with private manufacturers Pradesh Khadl & Village Industries Board and In the selected households only 90 persons each trainee was paid at the rate of Rs 50/­ have actually reported engaged In the craft P m The training was arranged depending upon the response of the weavers. After the Training: The data given In table 25 depicts completion of training a sum of Rs 1,000/­ that 43 persons or 47 78 per cent were was given to each trainee on 50 per cent engaged In the profession for the last about 20 subSidy for the purchase of raw matenal years and more, 24 persons between 10 to 19 However, some of the trainees could not avail years, 11 persons between 5 to 9 years and thiS faCility due to fraudulent actiVities of some the remaining 12 persons were In the trade for persons less than 5 years 6 persons were trained by the Instructors of the Himachal Pradesh Training course of one year was also Handicraft & Handloom Corporation and arranged In Lohara Village through the another 3 persons received training from the Instructor of Himachal Pradesh, Khadl Board Instructors engaged by the Himachal Pradesh and each trainee was paid monthly stipend of Khadl & Village Industries Board 1° persons Rs 100/- After the completion of training got training from the Industnal Training Centre about 9 weavers were prOVided With fly­ at Kullu and only 2 persons learnt thiS craft shuttles at 33 percent subSidy and the while working with private units 2 females households covered under the Integrated learnt thiS craft partly from the Instructors of Rural Development Programme got subSidy to H!machal Pradesh Khadl & Village Industries the extent of 50 per cent However, some of Board and partly from their mothers The the trained persons could not get themselves remaining 3 persons as per table 26, reported rehabilitated In the trade due to non-availability that they learnt thiS craft from other members of raw matenal and SUitable market for of their households disposal of the products 40

In the case of households where the skill household respectively As per table 27, of has passed from generation to generation, the 90 persons, the training penod of 29 there is no particular set procedure for persons ranged between 6 months to 1 year, Imparting training to the youngsters The while In the case of 61 persons It was more younger people normally observe the, way of than a year The persons who were Imparted working of their elders and also attend the training by Khadl & Village Industnes Board, other odd Jobs In the process of weaving and Himachal Pradesh Handicrafts and DUring the course of field enqUiry, it was Handloom Corporation received stipends The observed that the persons having some trainees were not under any obligation With experience In the trade are keen to JOin the the training agencies for settling In weaving training courses which would facIlitate their work picking up the work more qUickly and also enable them to do the weaving work skilfully From the data given In table 29 It IS eVident that as many as 83 persons were satisfied With As per table 25 out of 32 weavers who are the extent and contents of training Of these, also the heads of households, as many as 9 10 were engaged In thiS craft for less than 5 received training from the Industrial Training years,9 between 5-9 years, 23 between 10-19 Centre at Kullu, 15 from their parents, 2 each years and 41 for more than 20 years The from the motherS-in-law and other family maximum persons I e 27 belonged to Ban members and Instructors of Himachal Village, and 15 to Lohara Village Only seven Pradesh Handicraft and Handfoom persons were not fully satisfied With the Corporation and one each learnt this craft training acqUired by them Of these two were from Wife and a private manufacturer Similarly In the trade for the last 4 years, 3 for 5-9 years In the case of 39 wives as many as 23 and one each for the last 10-19 years and 20 received training from thel( parents, 8 from years and more SIX of these persons their husbands and 3 each from the belonged to Banogl Village and one hailed Instructors appointed by the Khadl Board & from Har Village Of these persons 3 (2 of Handicraft Corporation One female each got Banogl Village & 1 of Har Village) received training from mother-In-law and private training from the family members They had manufacturer Thus, It IS eVident from table 25 reported that the training received by them that 60 00 per cent of the weavers received was neither suffiCient nor conforming to any training from their parents. There are only standard Another 3 persons were of the view 21 11 percent of weavers who received that penod of training was not suffiCient and training from other Institutions The remaining one person could not get better training as It 18 89 percent weavers received training from was not possible for her to spare time from other sources such as private manufacturers, the household duties relatives and family members

The data given in table 26 reveals that of the Thirteen persons were of the view that 90 persons, as many as 85 are well better training faCIlities could be provided acquainted with process of warp, weft and Within the Village by tapping the traditional weaving. There are only 2 persons who sources available With the local artisans One received training In weaving and spinning and craftman of Har Village was of the opinion that another three persons received trainll'lg in better training faCIlities were available Within border weaving. Of the 90 persons, 32 were the household Seven craftmen were In favour themselves heads of the households, 39 of receiVing stili better training The persons related as Wife, 6 each as son & daughter, 5 responSible for training alongwlth the duration as son's wife and one each as mother and of training terms and conditions have been husband's mother to the head of the depicted In table 28 The data reveals that 41

maJonty of weavers were trained by their profession after the death of hiS father and parents followed by those who were Imparted had to work as a dally wager for some time on training by vanous government Institutions the road Side and some other places as he There was only one person who received had nothing to fall back upon In 1963 he training from a pnvate Unit located at Kullu In Installed a fly-shuttle In hiS house which most of the cases, the profession is being cost him about Rs 200/- Probably he was carned on hereditary basIs the first person In the Village to take initiative In installing fly-shuttle and was also Instrumental Biographical sketches of selected In prOViding training to atleast 100 persons craftsmen belonging to HanJan and other lower castes The trainees were paid according to the As a part of the field study brief biographical quality and quantity of their output Shn Jogi profiles of the artisans were prepared from Ram is very optimistiC about the growth and each of the selected villages No doubt, the finanCial Viability of shawl Industry In Kullu Informants have not given much Information area which IS very much linked With the about the trade due to lack of proper tounsts who have faSCination for bUYing the education and proper prospectus of the "Kullu Shawl" He IS also of the view that trade but It does serve the purpose of studying conserted efforts are reqUired for making the level of development of the profession the Industry more attractive With regard to the which they are practising quality and quantity of the products which can be achieved If the weavers are supplied raw Shn Jogi Ram: Shn Jogi Ram IS one of the matenal adequately and at reasonable rates enlightened weaver belonging to Banogl and secondly the shawls must have artistic Village of Kullu dlstnct He IS 47 years old and touch to catch the searching eye of the tounst belongs to Chamar community He had ThiS can be achieved If regular training studied up to 2nd standard only He IS courses are arranged to the beginners and working as self employed weaver and hiS refresher courses to those who are already In family members constituting Wife, two sons the profeSSion He IS also of the view that and three daughters also Invanably help him sincere efforts are needed to be made to In vanous processes of weaving It IS needless attract the weavers Into the co-operative to mention that like other weavers In the state channels as the area is already haVing very Shn Jogi Ram also Inhented thiS profession successful co-operative SOCieties of the from hiS father who was qUite enlightened and weavers He IS also of the view that the enthusiastic about the uplift of the weavers government agencies like Handloom and He started hiS spinning and weaving society Handicrafts Emponum, Khadl Board's with a membership of 12 and a share capital sansthas etc can go a long way In of Rs 120/- In 1956 The actiVities of the ameliorating the lot of weaver~ by way of society were mostly confined to the supply of proViding vanous Incentives In the form of wool for weaving "pattoos" to the members loans, supply of raw matenal and purchase of who mainly worked on the pltlooms The other products society had to wind-up In 1962 when the government stopped the supply of wool to thiS Shn Tula Ram He belongs to Village Banogl society Shn Jogi Ram received training In of Kullu dlstnct and IS of 35 years of age He weaving from Shn Madan Mohan of Ramshlla had studied upto 5th class and IS chamar by Bazar, Kullu He worked with thiS unit for about caste HIS family consists of Wife, two sons five years and acquired craftmanshlp In the and one daughter He could not continue hiS vanous processes of weaving shawls and schooling due to finanCial hardships He "pattoos" Shn Jogi Ram had to leave thiS received training In weaving craft for one year 4L from Industrial Training Centre, Kullu In 1965 for the Himachal Pradesh Handicrafts and and received stipend of Rs 45/- per month Handloom CorporatIon as the local demand He IS of the view that one year's training IS not does not provide much work to the weavers sufficient for being fully acquainted with He IS of the view that the profeSSion can be vanous techniques Involved In the craft He developed more and brought on a sound worked for sometimes with a private weaving footing proVided the government helps In a unit & thereafter he started his own unit with big way In the form of providing various the gUidance of other villagers by taking a loan incentives He IS also functlonll1g as Vice of Rs 500/- from the State Bank of India, Kullu President of the wool worker'S Co-operative which was repaid by him In monthly lnd~stnal Society Kullu Instalments of Rs 25/- Till 1971 his clientage Smt. Reshmi Devl: She IS from Har Village of was mainly from the neighbouring villages and Kangra dlstnct and belongs to Kablrpanthl thereafter like other weavers he got himself caste She IS a Widow and her family consists registered with the Himachal Pradesh of a son & mother-Ill-law She has studied Handicrafts & Handloom Corporation The upto 5th class and IS In the weavlng,professlon corporation supplies the raw matenal and for the last 25 years She learnt weaving from makes payment to the weavers on piece rate her mother in her childhood Due to finanCial basIs which solely depends upon the design constraints she IS stili working on the plt­ and quality of the work The shawl making loom She IS reluctar)t to take the govt charges normally vary between Rs 15/- to loan due to apprehension of being not In a Rs 200/- depending upon the design to be poslt!on to return the same As she mainly woven Shn Tula Ram IS qUite satisfied With works for the local Villagers, the profeSSion the profeSSion which enables him to get does not provide her full time work She is of reasonable earnings He also desired that the the view that thiS craft can be made more Corporation should ensure regular and profitable If adequate raw matenal IS supplied adequate supply of raw matenal regularly on reasonable rates and a proper market IS created for' the finished Shri Amar Chand: He belongs to Banogl products as thiS craft can be carned out in the Village of Kullu dlstnct and IS 32 years of age household Itself and every member can be He has studied upto 4th class and has one Involved In the vanous processes She son and 2 daughters He got training from the suggested that Khadl & Industnes Board Industrial Training Centre at Kullu and belon~s should Introduce the system of dellvenng the to "Chamar" community He IS of the view that raw matenal & collecting the finished products penod of training IS not adequate to acquire from the Village Itself the requIsite skill In the art of weaving and preferred to work With private weavers to Smt. Kaushalya Devi She is also from Har acquire more skill In the trade At the time of Village and belongs to Kabirpanthl caste She survey he had his own fly-shuttle Installed In IS 5th pass and has three sons and a his house He IS working for the Himachal daughter She IS practlsmg the craft for the last Pradesh Handicrafts and Handloom 22 years She works on a pltloom In a Corporation from where he is getting the raw verandah She weaves "pattoos" for the Khadl matenal In order to ensure more qUickness In Board and the Villagers She IS of the view that the work he IS getting the warp of 10 or more weaving can not proVide wholetlme work as shawls prepared from Kullu for which he has well as livelihood for the entire family unless to pay the charges The shawl making regular supply of raw matenal is ensured to charges depend upon the type of design of the weavers The craft on the existing scale the shawl which he IS asked to prepare Most Just helps In augmenting the family Income of the weavers of Banogl Village are working She IS also of the view that the craft does not 43 provide lucrative employment opportunities 'I. daughterS-In-law, 3 daughters and 4 grand due to the fact that there IS virtually no children BeSides himself the weaving team demand for the finished products due to stiff compnse of his Wife and two sons They work competition from the mill made products as on fly-shuttles The peak working season IS well as lack of marketing facIlities from August to September and March to April BeSides working for wages, he IS also weaving shawls, "pattoo" of his own by purchqslng Smt. Nirmala Oevi: She IS a resident of Har raw matenal from the local market I e village and IS 31 years old and belongs Patllkuhl He has taken loan of Rs 6,000/­ kablrpanthi caste She has four sons and a from a bank which he IS repaying In daughter She IS practising weaving for the Instalments He IS working on whole time last 20 years whereas her husband IS working basIs and observes some rituals before setting as an agncultural labourer She works on fly­ for the day's work Like other artisans, he IS shuttle loom and learnt weaving In her also of the view that the government must childhood from her mother She mostly works supply the raw matenal timely and on on wages as the cotton/wool yarn IS supplied reasonable rates In addition to making by the customers She IS of the view that In arrangements for marketll1g of the products order to make thiS craft viable the government has to take various steps with regard to supply Shri Tundup: He IS from Ban Village and IS 58 of raw material and purchaSing back the years old He belongs to Kmnaura community finished products. and his forefathers had migrated to the Village in the distant past HIs family consists of his Smt. Satya Oevi She IS 46 years old and Wife, two married sons, one each of unmarried belongs to Har Village She IS Illiterate and son and daughter and two grand children HIs belongs to Kabirpanthl caste The members of Wife IS also helping 111 weaving and he IS her family are three sons and a daughter Her engaged In the craft for the last 40 years husband IS working as an agricultural labourer Although there are 3 pit-looms Installed In hiS and is also engaged In trading activities The house, but, most of the members prefer to family has some agricultural land which work as labourers as they get wages provides subSidiary work to the members She Immediately whereas in the weaving has been dOing weaving for the last 30 years profession they have to Invest the money first There is a fly-shuttle loom fitted In open or they have to walt for the disposal of their verandah In the house She got training from products He has also taken loan of Rs the Himachal Pradesh Handicrafts & 1500/- from the Punjab National Bank, Nagar Handloom Corporation, but IS not fully which IS being repaid In Instalments He also satisfied with the duration and coverage of the weaves "Gudmas", "Pattoos" and Shawls course Like other artisans she IS also of the Most of hiS customers are from Jagatsukh, view that the raw matenal should be provided Manah, Nagar, Baragraon etc to the artisans and the government and other agencies should ensure the purchase of their Shn Prem Chand: He belongs to Lohara products She has no Intention of inducting Village of Una district and belongs to her sons & daughter In the profession Kablrpanthl caste He IS also working as chowkldar of the Village HIS family consists of Shri Gian Chand: He is a resident of Ban hiS wife, two sons and a daughter The Village of Kullu tahSil and belongs to Kmnaura weaving work IS mostly being attended by hiS community. He IS 61 years old and IS engaged Wife Smt Parkasho Devi and daughter Pavan in the craft for the last 50 years. HIs family Kumari. Smt Parkasho Devi has been dOing consists of his wife, two married sons, two weaving work for the last 40 years whereas 44 her daughter Pavan Kumari IS engaged In the the artisans who have received training from profession for the last 10 years Prior to the the vanous institutions/centres have to work year 1982 the weavIng used to be done by with the private units/persons In order to them on pit-looms whIch were replaced by fly­ equip themselves with the various shuttles. According to him 9 fly-shuttles were techniques of the craft DUring the field Installed In the village whereas at the time of opt::ratlons, it has been observed that some of survey only 3 were in use and the rest were the households had suggested that lying idle due to non-availability of raw specialized courses should be started by the matenal In 1982 the HImachal Pradesh government agencIes so that the weavers of Handicrafts & Handloom Corporation the state may Improve upon their craft and engaged a lady Instructor for Imparting place themselves In a comfortable POSition In training to the interested persons on monthly order to compete With their counterparts In stipend of Rs 100/- The fly-shuttles were other states. It IS also suggested that the supplied on 33 per cent subsidy and a warp private units including the co-operative machine was also provided to the Villagers, societies should also be provided so~ but, much use of this machine could not be Incentives for providing training to Uie made due to non-avaIlabilIty of raw matenal desirous persons as the government's efforts and other operational difficulties. Smt are not adequate to match With the total Parkasho Devi Inherrted this craft from her requirements. Most of the weavers of the state mother. Shawls, "Khes", "Chaddars" and are engaged In the weaving of shawls, pattoos "Pattoos" are being made in the household and pattis in the hili areas and khes and khesls In the lower areas. In order to provide them gainful employment dunng major part of To sum up, the trainrng facIlitIes provided the year, diversification of products being by the various government agencIes only manufactured should also be encouraged touch the fringe of the problems and are not which can be possible If the required training sufficient with regard to the contents. Most of IS given to the deSirous persons CHAPTER IV MANUFACTURING PROCESS Manufacturing Process: The looms and eltner cultivators/agricultural labourers or Charkhas are utterly primitive and unchanged engaged in some other pursuits. Out of 60 since tlmelmmemonal In Himachal Pradesh surveyed households, in the case of 59 as per 1981 Census only 761 percent of the households having 88 working craftsmen, the total population has been returned from the place of work is located Within the dwelling urban areas and the remaining 92 39 percent where they live. There IS only one household from the rural areas. Most of the urban areas of Banogi Village of Kullu tahSil which has its In the State are small towns each having a workshop located outSide the Village at a short population of 5,000 or less. Shimla is the only distance from the residence of the household. town In the state having population of more This wor~shop is conveniently located on the than 50,000. Hence, most of the towns are National Highway No. 21 and IS suitable for having rural characteristics also It has also marketing the products. The details of the been observed that the weaving craft IS distribution of households and persons spread over throug11out the Pradesh and the engaged in the craft related to place of work concentration of weavers IS mostly m the have been given In table 18. rural areas Till the recent past, weavers in the rural areas used to work on pit looms, but, Table 19 gives the classification of these are now being replaced by fly shuttle households by broad age-groups, place of looms. The installation of fly shuttle looms has work and duration of work in the handicraft in become more convenient due to various relation to the head of household and other incentives prOVided by the government In the members. There are in all 90 persons Le. 32 form of subsidies and liberal bank loans males and 58 females who are working as Besides, working on fly shuttle looms weavers In terms of percentages, male Increases the productivity and efficiency but weavers constitute 35.55 percent while much depends upon the craftsmanship also. females account for 64.45 percent. Of the The pit looms/fly shuttle looms are generally males, 20 fall m the age group of 15-34 years, Installed In the open varandah or In few cases 9 m 35-59 years and only 3 in 60 +. The in the rooms preferaoly in the first floor as corresponding figures for females are 29, 25 invariably ground floors are bemg used as and 4 respectively. cattle sheds. The mformation relating to the place of work Out of 60 households covered under the of persons engaged m the craft classified by study, as many as, 32 heads of households area occupied and number of persons are themselves engaged In the craft whereas working therein have been given In table In the case of remaining 28 heads of 21. Of the persons working withm the households, they are engaged in some other households, 8 have reported less than 3 sq gainful activities while the females or other mtrs. as the area of their workshop, 14 have members operate the pIt/fly shuttle looms between 3-5 sq mtrs, 34 between 6-10 The craft has not got potentiality to provide sq mtrs. 21 between 11-16 sq.mtrs. and 13 employment except very few households who betweer 17-24 sq.mtrs. The area figures are are entirely dependent for their livelihood on Just approximate as revealed by the this profeSSion. Majority of the households are Informants to the surveying team. In addition, 46 the area also vanes with the availability of has been observed as well as returned by the accommodation with the households as well households that all the surveyed families as the number of persons In the house Of the observed certain norms and rituals as per surveyed households as many as 33 persons tradition/custom before starting the work reported adequacy of the available space Most of them pay their obeisance to their for work whereas 57 persons Informed that deities by lighting 'agarbatl s' and they also they are not having adequate space of work In bow before the looms before setting for the their houses which effects the efficiency (table day's work It has also been found that the 22) Of the persons not having adequate looms are operated bare footed Some of the place for work, 8 belong to Banogl, 22 to Ban, households have reported that It IS a 21 to Har and 6 to Lohara village Another customary tradition not to put on the shoes reason for Inadequacy of place IS that while working This also gives them a sort of most of the households have Installed their mental so/ace Some of the households also looms in the open varandah where the distribute gur/ shakar when they launch new operation of work IS conditioned by weather warp With the sun set they either SWitch on It has also been observed that some of the the light at their place of work or lit kerosene households do not have electricity facIlities In lamp and pay obeisance On festiVities like their houses which In turn puts a restraint for Rakhl, most of the weavers tie a Rakhl on the working dUring night hours In the surveyed looms also Similarly, on D,wal, and Dushehra households, as many as 35 households have days the looms are properly cleaned On the reported one weaver each and in the V,shwakarma day which falls Immediately atter remaining 25 households the number of Dlwali, the looms and other tools and weavers ranges between 2 to 5 The Implements generally used In weaving are households haVing one weaver are 7 from Invanably worshipped by all the households Banogl Village, 4 from Ban Village, 15 from Har Irrespect of caste and place of work to which Village and 9 from Lohara Village they belong Handicraft Items manufactured by almost all the households are shawls, PuretyjPollutlon: The Information regarding chaddars, pattoos, mufflers, patt/s, borders, sect of each household to which It belongs khaddar cloth, Khes/, khes and dume In the and the various rituals being observed by lower areas of the Pradesh Statement them while practising the craft was collected In IV 1 gives the number of households the household schedule Of the surveyed manufactUring handicraft Items classified by households 32 belong to Kablfpanthl caste, 15 educational level of the head of the are Chamar and 13 of Kmnaura community It households Statement IV 1 Number of households manufacturing handicraft Items cross classified by educational level of the head of household

Number of households manufactupng

Educational level of the head Shawl Chaddar Pattoo Muffler Patti Border Khaddar I Khesj of household cloth Khesl

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

IIhterate 9 16 3 8 4

Literate 9 4 10 5 (without educational level) 47

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Pnmary 7 2 11 3 3 3

Middle 5 6 2 2

Matnc

Graduate and above

Total 30 8 43 7 3 10 16 7

Of the surveyed househols, 30 are engaged the manufacturing of Khes and khes/s In in shawl weaving i.e. 10 from Ban091 village, 8 Klnnaur district of the Pradesh, the females each from Har and Bari and 4 from Lohara are wearing dorus (bigger shawls) which are village. With regard to the level 01 literacy of used to wrap the body from ankle to the heads of the households, 9 each have shoulders which normally measures 4 5 mtrs. been reported as Illiterate and literate without X 1 25 mtrs However, With the increase In the any educational level, 7 primary pass and 5 cost of weaving as well as non-availability of middle pass. suffiCient wool With the households and due to availability of cheap substitute of mill made The eXisting weaving Units In most parts of cloth, this dress IS on the decline, but, the the state are so small that any specialization females of well-to-do families still prefer this can hardly be visualised In other words, most dress espeCially on the festive and ceremonial of the households are practising the craft not occasions In Kullu district women use bigger as a way of hfe, but, they have no other source shawls locally known as 'Glddl' The shawl is of getting employment easily With the also used to wrap the body upto shoulders exception of a few units In Kullu valley of level The use of shawl Invariably depicts the the State or the Units run by the state agencies prosperity of the lady wearing It as the almost all the weavers In the upper hilly areas weaving work vanes from Simple to very are engaged in the manufacture of shawls, meticulous art work This dress IS also on pattoos, chaddars, pattJs and mufflers etc., decline due to cost and labour Involved as while in the lower areas the focus IS more on well as other types of dresses available In the weaving of khaddar, khes, khesi and the market, but, still the w6men folk prefer this dUffie. The Khadi & Village Industries Board dress to wear on festive occasions if they can has also Introduced the weaving of mats on afford to do so. The use of patti and pattoo is experimental basis, but, this item has not stili common With the rural people of the area become popular so far among the weavers It and is mostly got woven from the local may, however, be mentioned that due to lack weavers The quality of pattoo and patti of specialization, households are weaving depends upon the quality of yarn which is more than one item depending upon the skill prepared from the wool procured from they have acquired as well as the demand for sheep reared by the households or purchased the products. 43 households have reported from the shepherds the weaving of pattoos, 10 households the weaving of borders and 7 households the Statement IV 2 given below depicts the weaving of mufflers. With regard to the cotton normal length and breadth of doru, pattoo, items, 16 households have reported the muffler, gudma, kharcha, thObl, dume, khes weaving of khadi cloth while 7 have reported and khesl 48

Statement IV 2

Measurement of different articles relating to craft

SI Name of articles Measurement No

Length Breadth

2 3 4

Doru (wrapPing qUilt) 45 mt 125 mt 2 Pattoo (Thin blanket) 25 mt 125 mt

Muffler 3 135-150 cms 20-25 cms 4 Gudma (Thick blanket with fur) 165-180 ems 90 to 1 mt.

5 Kharcha (Drugget made of goat's wool) 180 ems 90cms

6 Dume (Long mat of cotton) 90cms 45 cms. 7. Khes (Thick cotton bed sheet) 2 mt 1 mt

8 Khesl (Thick cotton bed sheet) 175 cms 90cms 9 Chaddar (Thin blanket) 2 mt 1 mt.

The shawl has become more popular With the patronage of ~/war-kameez which in fact concentrated In Kullu valley of the state. These has become the ladles dress in the state. In Items are of Intensive labour and are, the urban areas also, shawl is being used therefore, being manufactured by a few even by the females wearing San. With the households as compared to those engaged in growth of tourist traffic in the state, there IS the manufacture of shawls, pattoos, etc. The a craze among the tourists to have Himachah demand for mufflers and caps IS on shawls especially Kullu one's. Another Item Increase as these items have caught the which is widely used by the persons of all patronage of the tOUrists. The weaving of patti ages is pattoo. Almost all the weavers with the IS also on the decline as tweeds and other exception of very few are engaged In the woven material available in the market are manufacture of shawls and pattoos in the comparatively cheaper as well as more upper region of the state. Pattoos and pattis attractive as compared to patti. Khaddar, khes are being woven or being made to order and and khesi which are being woven mainly in the weaver is only concerned With the wages lower hilly areas of the state are mostly being In lieu of the work done by him Besides, the woven on behalf of some agency or of some spinning habits are also on the decline due to private party Statement IV 3 shows the which the production of pattoos IS gradually number of households claSSified by the coming down The manufacture of mufflers, number of items manufactured on an average pattis border for caps and shawls IS mainly In a month. 49

Statement IV 3

Number of households reportmg the number of various handicrafts Items manufactured in a month

Handicraft Item

Number reporting Shawl Chaddar Pattoo Muffler Patti Border Khaddar Khes/ number of Items Khesl manufactured In

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Less than 10 25 8 41 4 3 7

10-25 4 2 3 6

26-50 6 7

51-100 4 3

101 +

Total 30 8 43 7 3 10 16 7

Raw Materials: Cotton, Wool, pasham, goat to the used up cotton In qUilts and matresses hair, manna wool and silk are used In ThiS used up cotton is spun coarsely and weaving The detail of raw matenals being sheets woven out of the yarn are called khes used In weaving In the Pradesh alongwlth their' chemistry has been given in the report Wool Wool IS the principal matenal for "Art of weaving monograph Volume XX Part weaving In the Pradesh particularly In the VII-A No 2 Census of India 1961", upper regions of the state, which are nch in wooi productIon Sheep are reared by the Cotton Most of cotton cloth Ih the Pradesh professional shepherds In the districts of comes from the mills Khadl cloth, dumes, Klnnaur, Lahul & Spltl and parts of Kangra and bed sheets and khes are prepared locally from Chamba and also by most of the agriculturist cotton yarn. The Khadl & Village Industries families for meeting their domestic Board makes direct purchase of cotton from requirements. The sheep are reared in the the markets of the neighbouring states and state In two ways I e by keeping the flock In then get the yarn spun through their agencies the village throughout the year. ThiS type of for prepanng khadl cloth Most of the sheep IS constitutionally small sized and weavers of the lower areas carry out the phYSically weak due to non-availability of cotton weaving and manufactunng of dumes enough grazing facilities. The second type etc and purchase yarn from outside the belongs to the migratory flock. The sheep are Pradesh Few others prepare khes/khesl from generally reared dunng autumn and spring in the yarn of 'logar' Logar IS a local name given the months of September and April. The 50 quality of wool depends upon the type of Nurpur area BeSides, there IS one pnvate firm sheep as well as the part of the body of the known as Khurana Industnes which IS also sheep from which the wool IS taken The wool engaged In the weaving of pashmma IS found in natural colours of white, black, chaddars and shawls. The pashmina industry brown and grey Normally, there are 3 kinds of has got a bright future as there IS lot of locally available wool namely Byangl, Imboo demand for pashmlna shawls and and Desar Byangl IS long staple wool and chaddars from other parts of the country but comes from Klnnaur, Lahul & SPltl and the Industry has not developed suffiCiently to Chamba districts ImbeD IS the soft wool cope with the demand as suffiCient raw obtained from the first shearing of lambs The matenalls not available Moreover, there is lot wool procured from the sheep which do not of fluctuation In the prices of the raw matenal migrate IS known as Desar ThiS IS somewhat and the weavers are reluctant to purchase the coarse In quality The shepherds generally raw matenal In large quantity Pashmma wool sell the wool to the local villagers without IS separated from Shell (goat hair) and after InvolVing the middleman With the setting up cembing it IS spun into a thin thread of Sheep Breeding Farms the indigenous Normally, from 1 Kg Shell about 250 to 300 breed has been replaced by Improved breeds grams of fine pashmma wool are obtained and to a great extent Thus, In the recent past the to prepare a shawl about 400 grams of fme quality of wool available In the Pradesh has pashmma wool are required Sheli IS used In considerably Improved The wool so procured the manufacture of kharcha (Drugget) Manno IS cleaned which IS rough and inferior The wool, which IS also very fine, IS obtained from wool IS thereafter properly combed and Manno sheep reared In government farms and carded and then It IS spun on a spindle locally by the indiViduals. known as 'Takll' Of thiS yarn, different types of products are prepared depending upon the Kullu IS famous for Dussehra festival as well quality of yarn as for shawls and apples Right from the beginning of the present century, there IS a lot Pashmina: As the wool Itself shows, means of demand for Kullu shawls. In fact, Kullu IS the soft In Persian and In warmth It IS stated to be only valley In Himachal Pradesh where one enough to hatch eggs It IS considered as a can come across the eXistence of fly loom pnzed family treasure and passes through shuttles and pit looms BeSides extenSive use generations all the world over. The Khadi & thiS IS the only area In the State where Village Industry Board purchases pashmma spinning and weaving units have come up on wool from the traders of Manall in Himachal commercial baSIS to meet the requirements of Pradesh and Ladakh in Jammu & Kashmir tOUrists Some of the Units like "Bhuttl The pnvate weavers mostly purchase Shawl Weavers" have established their net pashmma wool either In Lavi fair at Rampur work of sales depots and centres at various or from Manall Previously, the main source of places I.e. Manall, Kullu, Shamshl, Bhuntar, supply of pashmma wool used to be Tibet Mandi, Palampur, Dharamsala, Dalhousie, Shlmla, Sundernagar and Mussoone, etc_ The Spinning and weaving of pashmma articles deSigns of Kullu shawls are artistically tYPical are being done In Nurpur area of Kangra which have earned a name not only in the district and a few pockets in Kullu tahSil country, but, also provide a faSCination for the BeSides, pashmma Productlon-cum-Training foreigners These are geometncal In shape Centre at Nurpur which IS being run by the and floral motifs are also woven The weavers Khadi & Village Industries Board, there are are also perfect In making designs as well as good number of households specialized In the colour combination from their own expenence manufacture of pashmma shawls/chaddars in as well as imagination They also make efforts 51 to Improve upon the designs which are station was established at Palampur dunng common The government agencies like 1939-40 and the senculture work was taken up training centres and pnvate Units also make In Chauntra area of Mandl district dUring efforts to Introduce the latest designs for their 1967-68, yet, much could not be achieved so products In order to make It more saleable In far DUring 1987-88, 52 Senculture Centres the market In short, It IS not wrong to say that were functioning In the state mostly In Kangra Kullu IS known as the source of quality shawls dlstnct where cocoons are reared and sold to However, It IS distressing to observe that the Interested parties Although, SIDC hds insplte of the lot of potentiality available With established factory at Nurpur, yet, due to the people, most of the weavers are diverting vanous reasons as well as lack of to other professions due to low earnings, non­ craftmanshlp, the silk weaving Industry has availability of raw matenal as well as their not become so popular among the weavers exploitation by the middle men The earnings, of the weavers widely differ depending upon the type of design woven In shawls, mufflers Sheep Breeding Farms: The Animal and borders whereas In the case of Items like Husbandry Department of the state pattoo, patti, khes/khesl etc the wages being government IS actively engaged In Improving earned are almost uniform In all the villages the quality and quantity of wool To achieve With slight vanatlon this object, 6 Sheep Breeding Farms are functioning In the state and number of sheep Silk: Silk IS one of the pnnclpal matenal used sold to the breeders since the Inception of In weaving In India But In Himachal Pradesh these farms upto the year 1981-82 and In silk fibres are oroduced mostly In government different block years are given in Statement Senculture Centres Although, the silk seed IV 4

Statement IY 4

Name WIth date of start of vanous sheep breeding farms and number of sheep sold to breeders

Sheep sold to Number of sheep sold to breeders breeders Since Inception till SI Name of Farm Date of start 1981-82 1980-81 1981-82 1982-83 No M F M F M F M F

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Sheep breeding farm, 1 101955 2,135 1,043 99 2 104 24 Jean (Dlstt Shlmla) 2 Sheep breeding farm, 1960-61 670 350 49 48 2 45 Karchham (Dlstt Klnnaur) 3 Sheep breeding farm, Feb 1958 945 367 39 3 39 5 44 6 Chamba (Dlstt Chamba) 4 Sheep breeding farm, 22051965 882 443 171 44 254 53 102 68 Tal (Dlstt Hamlrpur) 21 32 9 16 5 Sheep breeding farm, 2601 1969 182 Nagwaln (Dlstt Mandl) 6 Sheep & Wool extension 21 1 1977 21 3 NA NA NA NA NA NA Centre, ChUrl, (Dlstt Mandl)

Source - The DIrectorate of Ammal Husbandry H P Shlmla. 52

The Indigenous breed of sheep Yielding low (1 34 percent), wether (228 percent), ewe qUClhty of wool used to be reared by most of (6 76 percent) and lamb (3 17 percent) The the households are being replaced by corresponding figures for Indigenous breed Improved varieties which has helped In are 9.12 percent, 13 41 percent, 24 12 percent increasing the quality and production of wool and 19 80 percent respectively. to a great extent.

According to the result of sample survey Statement IV 5 given below shows the carned OUt by the Department of Animal estimates of average wool Yield of cross-bred Husbandry of the State Government, about and indigenous breed From the data It is 13 55 percent of sheep are cross-bred where­ observed that In respect of the cross-bred, the as 86 45 percent sheep are stili at local breed Yield of wool from cross-bred IS almost double The break-up of the cross-bred sheep IS ram In respect of ail the categones

Statement IV 5

Esttmates of average wool Yield of sheep (Gms )

Classes (Breeds Ram Wether Ewe Lamb Overall

2 3 4 5 6

Cross-Bred 2,34315 2,52016 2,011 20 1,13161 1,92389

Indigenous 1,17962 1,29040 1,11108 5,5686 1,03769

The average wool Yield per sheep and total production has Increased from 628.7 tonnes production for the different years has been In 1962-63 to 1,343 6 tonnes In 1987-88, thus, given In Statement IV 6 The total shOWing an increase of 113 71 percent

Statement IV 6

Year-wise average wool Yield per sheep/annum and total production

Average wool Yield In (Gms ) Year Total Production Ram Wether Ewe Lamb Overall (Tonnes)

2 3 4 5 6 7

1962-63 790 1,220 600 500 684 6287

1984-85 1,330 1,406 1,167 742 1,116 1,2700

1985-86 1,315 1,298 1,244 542 1,125 1,2953

1986-87 1,361 1,423 1,205 652 1,132 1,301 5

1987-88 1,329 1,469 1,231 636 1,158 1,3436

Source -Directorate of Anima/ Husbandry, H P , Shim/a. 53

Statement IV 7 given below shows the the total wool production of the state This proportion of annual wool production by also Indicates that lot of efforts are required for cross-bred and indigenous categories of replaCing the Indigenous breed of sheep by sheep. It IS observed that the Indigenous Improved varieties breed sheep stili contnbute more than 3/4th of

Statement IV 7

Wool production by different breeds classes to total production

Classes/Breeds Ram Wether Ewe Lamb Overall

2 3 4 5 6

Cross-Bred 272 496 1174 310 2252

Indigenous 987 1613 4314 834 77 48

Source - Dlfectorate of Ammal Husbandry H. P , Shlmla

Statement IV 8 given below shows the average wholesale and retail pnces of different type of wool prevailing dUring 1987-88

Statement IV 8

Wholesale and retail prices of different kmds of wool m H P (Year 1987-88)

Retail seiling Whole sale Type of wool pnce per kg selling pnce (In Rs) per QUintal (In Rs ) 2 3

Wool-local (Sheep Rampur 2300 2,200 00 Bushar Gaddl) 2400 2,30000 2 Wool-local (Lamb) 2900 2,80000 3 Wool-Polworth, RUSSian manno, RamboUillet 2700 2,60000 4 1/2 and 3/4 RamboUillet Polworth RusSian Manno, Manno etc 3000 2,90000 5 wool-Lamb. RamboUillet Polworth, RUSSian Manno and Manno etc (Pure) 2800 2.700 00 6 Wool-Lamb, 1/2 and 3/4 Rambouillet, RUSSian Manno & Manno etc 1500 1,400 00 1 Moner (Neck WOOl) 900 80000 8 Breech-Pieces, Belly and Rough wool 9 Men]1 and Pulled wool ThiS type IS sold only through auction

Source - Dlfectorate of Ammal Husbandry H P , Shim/a. 54

In Kullu area, the government as well as the of rabbit farms will come up In Kullu area of ,nd,viduals have taken up the rearing of the state rabbits. The rabbit wool locally known as •Angoora U IS more soft, fine and warm and IS In great demand for shawl making The Statement IV 9 given below shows the production of rabbit wool IS not much, but, It IS production of mulberry plants and dlstnbutlon hoped that In the years to come good number of silk seeds for the years 1985-86 to 1987-88

Statement IV 9

Year-wise production and distribution of plants silk seeds

Mulberry plants Silk-seeds Production of Year produce and distributed cocoons distributed (In Ozs) (In Kgs)

2 3 4

1985-86 135,242 2,060 68,411

1986-87 148,125 2,149 69,961

1987-88 152,730 2,256 80,990

Source - Directorate of Industfles H P Shlmla

Sources'of Raw Material: weavers of Kullu and at other places obtain the ruffle yarn either from the Handicraft & Cotton: The Village and Khadl Industry Board Handloom Corporation which In turn which is the biggest source of Khadl cloth purchases the yarn In bulk from Ludhlana and production In Himachal Pradesh purchases other places In the open market or get the cotton from the Mandls (markets) of Punjab supplies direct from the mills The Khadl & The Himachal Pradesh Handicraft & Village Industry Board gets the "manna tops" Handloom Corporation purchases the yarn from the recognised markets prescnbed by from the open market of the adjoining states the Commission. The polyester, poly-tape is The weavers in the lower areas purchase yarn also being received by the Board through the either from the markets of the state or from the Commission. Recently, few mills namely adjoining areas. In the case of dumes, and Himachal Worsted Mill Nalagarh, Dev Bhuml Khes/Khesi, the yarn IS being supplied by the Spinning Mill, Samshl (Kullu) and Sldhartha persons concerned who get the articles Spinning Mill, Nalagarh were started and prepared. The yarn IS spun from logar by the these are expected to meet the yarn household itself reqUirements of the local weavers The wool Wool In most of the areas of the state reqUired for carpet making IS of coarse quality wool IS either procured locally or and is generally obtained from Amntsar, obtained from the sheep reared by the Panipat etc The Tibetan carpet manufacturers household. In certain cases, the transaction of get yarn for their centres from Panlpat Most of wool IS also being carned out at certain fairs the weavers engaged In the manufacture of like Lavi fair at Rampur, Mlnjar fair at Chamba ruffle shawls and chaddars make direct and ShlVfatn fair at Mandl etc The shawl purchases from the nearby markets Most of 55 the Cooperative Societies especially the these are removed from the pegs. Before "Shuttl Weavers Society" obtain the raw removing the threads, all crosses are properly matenal from Ludhlana or Amntsar where the secured by tying them with a twine. Loops yarn In different colours and vanetles IS formed at the beginning and at the end of the available Angoora wool IS however, locally warp are also tied with a string. Sometimes obtained coloured threads are also introduced In groups of 40, 60 or 80 threads to give the Pashmma Wool Pashmma wool IS obtained warp a multi coloured shape. In warping the from the traders of Ladakh, Manall and from cross making is an important part because of Lavi fair at Rampur which warp thread does not get stretched up and down on the loom. Pnor to weaving, warp Silk There IS not much activity with regard to yarn sheet IS undergone through different the silk weaving In Himachal Pradesh This IS processes viz tYing of crosses, chaining or partly due to non-availability of silk yarn as loose plaiting of the warp In such a way that well as lack of good craftmanship the threads do not loose their position, spreading of the arranged threads over the Weavmg Process. For weaving shawls, warp beam so that these are wound firmly and bobbins of ruffle yarn are first made and then evenly on the warp roller, passing of warp warp is prepared with the help of beam. ends through the dents of the reed, and finally Considerable labour has to be put in for tying up these to the cloth roller In small arranging warp yarn and length and Width of groups. Such operations are performed the cloth to be woven IS taken Into account particularly on fly shuttle looms when warp for The warp IS norm any prepared by stick long cloth is to be laid on the loom. warping method In which cyllndncal wooden pegs about 15 to 25 cms long are pitched As the Villagers generally weave cloth of firmly into the level space of ground vertically shorter length, some of the aVOidable For prepanng warp of shorter length, three or operations are skipped over. Two warp sticks, more wooden pegs are suffiCient Firstly two one about 30 to 45 cms. long and the other of pegs are pitched Into the ground as per the double the size are passed through the loops desired length which forms the length of the at either end of the arranged warp. These cloth The third peg IS pitched about 15 to 25 ends are often held by two persons from each cms away from either of the two pegs in such end and the warp IS given a soft twiSt and a way lhat all the pegs are In a straight line. wound around the smaller stick After this the For preparing warp of more length, a fourth warp IS brought near the loom where the peg If necessary IS pitched on the other end. weaver's next step IS to draft the healds The weaver holds the ball of the warp yarn and ties one end of the thread to the first peg, then The next step is threading the healds which he walks along the length of the pegs pitched of course is time consuming. Width of the at the other end The thread IS then crossed In cloth to be woven IS generally less than that of between the two pegs at the other end and the healds In case full width of the loom is while withdrawing his steps, the direction of used even then normally a few heddle eyes the cross IS reversed and the thread IS brought are left unthreaded but while prepanng back to the starting post The process mufflers etc which are of shorter width, more continues till the required number of warp than half of the heddle eyes are left ends are received around the pegs The untouched. Threading work IS done in such a number of warp threads secured around the way that the healds are perfectly balanced I e pegs are counted. As and when cluster of an equal number of heddle eyes are left accumulating warp threads becomes thick, unthreaded on both the Sides This work is 56 usually done from right to left All the healds warp and correct order of threads are suspend freely from the heddle horses All the checked. warp threads are let loose after breaking the thread with cross and the loop IS tied The For prodUCing various textures and designs relative order of the thread IS safe In the stick in the weave, different numbers of warp ends The first loop of warp thread IS removed from are threaded with certain set spacings in the the stick and broken from the centre and then reed Spacing of threads In the reed IS all the loops are broken one by one In the kept uniform. One warp thread is put Into each same way and everytlme two warp ends are dent according to the type of work and size of received One end IS simultaneously passed the reed. Usually threads of coarse yarn need from the lower and upper healds and then It IS to be spaced in single's In each dent. If the passed through the outer space of the loops same reed is also used for finer yarn then the of the remaining three healds After thiS, threads are spaced In two's in each dent. For second warp end IS taken and is passed weaving various patterns and deSigns, apart through the outer space of the first heald and from uSing colour threads In the weft, the threaded through the two loops of the second weaver also employs his skill in denting the heald ThiS end also passes through the outer warp ends In different ways The number of space of the loops of the 3rd and 4th heald various popular reeds used by the Villagers Another warp loop IS picked up from the stick come In the range of 8, 10 and 14 and broken to form two warp ends. One end IS threaded through the loops of the 3rd heald Now the loom structure IS erected. The and the other through the fourth one. The next pedals are JOined to the lams and the lams to warp end IS again passed through the first the lower shafts of the healds. The upper heald and It continues till all the warp ends are shafts of the healds are fixed to the heddle threaded In the same way After threading 10 horses and the heddle horses to pulleys and to 20 warp ends, the threading order IS to transverse bar near the ceiling. The checked by the weaver carefully All this IS unroInng of warp threads sheet to the extreme done skilfully. ThiS process IS known as "Rue end is done and the two corners of the stick Bharna" In the next step, threading of drawn­ With warp loops are tied with a thick cord and In warp ends through the reed IS done. ThiS controlled with a long rope The rope IS drawn process IS known as denting and In local by the weaver through a wooden hook driven terminology It IS called "Racchh Bharna". into the wall at the back of his seat at a height of about 5 feet and then tied at With a 'reaf In the final stage, the Journey of threads knot' to another post pitched in th9 wall near from the warp-roller to the cloth beam him/her. In thiS way warp threads are held by commences This process IS known as the warp roller and the reqUired tension is "Reedmg" In thiS process the threads are tied given to the threads by loosening or tightening to a thin fro"t roller stick which IS fitted close to the 'rope knot'. The knot is loosened when the cloth beam. Denting IS done from right to some portion of the cloth is woven. The woven the left and the threads are drawn from the cloth is wound to the cloth roller and the dents With a hook The warp ends threaded in required tension IS again formed by tlghting the reed In about five centimeters space are the knot. collected In two braids and tied to a long wooden stick which prevents the threads from Weft Preparation: In local terminology It IS slipPing back The warp ends are tied to the known as "Bana". For preparing weft, the wooden stick by "bow knot" After completing threads of weft yarn are laced together at right the denting and tie up of warp threads in angles through the opening of warp In an bunches to the cloth roller stick, the tension of unbroken single thread. The thread is either 57 taken through by a cylindrical shaped pipe getting correct tenSion, the rope knot IS again (nalu) which IS cOnical at one end or by some tightened and, thus, weaving operation other form of shuttle The method of preparing remains in process the weft IS qUite simple but It changes with the use of nalu and shuttle For nalu weft IS wound Joining of broken ends: Due to friction In the form of loops one over the other on the generated by healds and reed In the process weft sticks which IS called Kanere A weaver of weaving, the warp threads oftenly get usually fills nearly half a dozen of weft sticks at broken The weaver always takes care of all a time A few loops of thread are drawn from such breakages Whenever a thread gets the stick with right hand and pushed with the broken a new piece of thread IS taken and end of the same stick Into the long open JOined with the broken yarn behind the healds space of nalu, till the same IS completely filled by giving an expert twiSt to the ends. At the After this the thread IS broken The nalu IS first Instance, twiSt IS given to both the ends In refilled when the entire thread has been used one direction and then It IS re-twlsted up in weaving alongwlth the main thread In the reverse direction According to the weavers, JOint Weavmg: After completing the above given In this way IS firm and hard The end of mentioned processes the weaver SitS In front the thread IS then passed through the correct of the loom and places his/her feet over the eye of the healds and correct dent and again pedals In the pit By dOing so, the cloth beam JOined to the broken end In front of the reed In comes nearer to his/her body The treadles the same manner Weft thread is not given any are then pressed In the order of drafting knot No sooner the nalu or shuttles are design choosen tor weaving and thus forming emptied then these are refilled For re-fllllng, p shed or opening In the warp Usually one of the end of the new thread IS Simply placed the hands lies on the batten When the pedals near the end of the finished thread without any are pressed, the batten IS pushed back so as knot or jOlnmg them together and the reed IS to make the shed Wide enough which enables beaten In the fill Weaving process continues the shuttle to move freely The shuttle or the till the warp thread reaches qUite nearer to the "nalu" IS taken by the weaver In one hand and healds Now, at this stage, nalu does not pass then thrown through the shed from one Side through the shed In a single throw and this and catching It with the other hand as It comes has to be gUided with fingers whenever It gets out of the shed on the opposite Side By dOing struck up As and when the weaver finds It so, the thread released from the nalu hes difficult to pass the nalu through the shed the between the shed For bringing the thread to weaving process IS stopped The stick IS the edge from where weaving beginS, the removed after cutting loops of the warp at the batten or "hathu" IS struck to his/her Side. The other end In this way the broken warp threads pedals are again pressed for raising the are released and the woven cloth IS removed healds alternately so as to form another shed with about five Inches of unwoven warp The nalu IS again thrown from the opposite threads at each end side and received on the other end The thread IS beaten towards the fill or the woven In Villages, weavers generally weave on cloth After weaving a few centimeters of cloth, p,tlooms In some of the households fly the weaver moves up the temple or "panak" shuttle looms have been Installed with the closer to the woven cloth In order to maintain help of the Khadl Board/Handicraft and uniform Width of the cloth Simultaneously the Handloom Corporation/Industries Department rope knot near him/her IS loosened and the etc. On pit loom shuttles, cloth of about half a warp thread IS released a little In this way meter Width can be woven because the healds woven cloth IS wound to the front roller For and reeds used by the weavers are of about 58

75 centimeters width Coat cloth Le. "Patties" loom With four healds IS invariably required can be woven there easily. Even blankets The effects of twill weave may be produced m having a width of '1.25 meters can be prepared different textures viz. regular twills, pointed by emploYing some different techniques. For wavy twills, re-arranged twills, combined twills, preparing blankets, warp of double the length broken twills or fancy twills. Such types of of the blankets to be woven is prepared While weave are usually resorted to by the preparing whole length of the blanket, about government weaving centres The Village 20 to 25 centimeters of portion IS left unwoven weavers generally produce regular twill weave in the middle of the cloth When the weaving as the only texture on various cloth they process IS over, the entire length IS then weave. For texture of regular twills, a speCifiC divided Into two equal parts by cutting evenly number of warp ends are lifted for each pick in fhe unwoven portion from the centre These the manner so that the weft thread also parts are then Jomed together by stitching with passes under and over the same number of a woollen thread. ends The group of warp ends including the one end lifted previously IS lifted in a Dyeing The use of colours on shawls, consecutive rotation for subsequent picks blankets, pattoos coating cloth and mufflers IS The texture so produced gives an Impression as old as the craft Itself In the yester years the of a stair-step In the fabriC It IS a popular weavers or Villagers used to prepare their own weave amongst the weavers. coloured yarn The dye colours used to be obtained from the JUices and extracts from Finishing In most of the cases the finishing various types of roots, leaves, flowers, tree work is being done by the persons themselves barks and vegetables. Later on with the who get the things prepared from the weavers Invention of synthetic dye substances the yarn In the Villages, the woven cloth IS properly was dyed by soacklng the same In the washed before being used by the persons In coloured water But now, with the availability the case of weavers, who sell their products In of ready made coloured yarn, the weavers or the market, the finishing of shawls and villagers prefer to go In for these which saves chaddars is being done by the dry cleaners much of their time The Khadl & Village Industry Board has set up a finishing plant at Mandl which undertakes Plain weave: It is most Simple form of the finishing work of the various centres In the weaving For preparing the design, weft yarn Pradesh. In this plant, the products are IS Interlaced with the warp yarn In the order of chemically washed and pressed In order to one up and one down process For every give them the proper shape. subsequent weft thread, the order is reversed, usually this weave IS used for preparing "khaddar" Tools and equipments: The following categories of tools and equipments are Twill Weave: This type of weaving is also generally used in weaving: done in the same manner as IS done In plain weave With a slight difference that In thiS case (a) Tools used In preparation of the warp the weft thread IS Interlaced with the warp yarn In the order of two up and two down process (b) Tools used In spinning the yarn moving diagonally across the cloth in a regular sequence Interlacing arrangements (c) Loom and ItS parts may also be done by one up and three down process The spacing of warp ends may be (d) Other accessories. Brief description of done In several other groupings. In twill weave each is given below- 59

(a) (I) Spool rack It IS a big wooden rack­ in balanCing the rotating spindle The hand shaped frame fitted with metal bars It can spindle IS used for spinning the yarn hold upto hundred reels of warp threads at a time and with this device a number of threads (IIi) Wheel Spindle It has a wheel driven can be warped From spool rack, the threads spindle which IS used for spinning and are gUided to the warping mill or warp roller Winding of bobbins A big wooden wheel This tool IS mostly used In government which IS about 10 cms to 15 cms thick and weaving centers has a diameter of about 68 centimeters IS hung tightly With an axle In between the two (II) Warpmg drum: It IS a wooden warping mill shafts The shafts are fitted vertically on a liT" haVing a big skeleton reel fixed hOrizontally on shaped base which helps the rotating wheels a large wooden stand on which the central move freely There IS a handle fixed to the long axle revolves. On every hOrizontal shaft, which wooden axle Three small shafts are fixed forms the skeleton reel, a number of smooth vertically at the other narrow end of the base upnght pegs are placed 5 centimetres apart A belt of strong cotton string IS tied over the As the setting of pegs diVides the whole reel Circumference of the wheel and is passed Into several sections, so the machine IS known through the hole of the central shaft and over as sectional warp roller These are used In the spindle. When the wheel IS put In motion, government weaving centres the belt over It makes the spindle twiSt The wheel IS operated With right hand and the wool (III) Warpmg board Its frame IS rectangular In IS fed to the spindle With left hand to spin and shape It is made of four strong pieces of wind the thread Into a cone on the spindle wood haVing holes on the upper surfaces In which wooden pegs usually 2 5 centimetres In (IV) Thornu Its shape IS like a "takll" With the diameter and 15 cms tp 22 cms long are exception that It IS slightly bigger and has a fitted creeping groove turning to the right at the top of the spindle The groove serves as a notch (IV) Warping mIll It has been deSigned to and helps the rotating spindle to hang freely make long warp and IS used In government by the twisted thread Usually the tool IS used weaving centres only for twisting the two ply spun yarn

(v) Taknosha It IS just a small bowl and the (b) (I) Carders These are pairs of rectangular hand spindle IS rotated there In With pieces of wood haVing handles used for convenience It IS either made of wood or clay carding of raw wool. On the Inner concave Even a metal bowl or a hollow piece of glass surfaces of these carders a piece of leather IS may also be used for thiS purpose fixed which IS studded With bent pieces of strong steel or copper wires faCing the (c) (I) Cloth beam or cloth roller It IS about 10 handles These wires are used for teasing centimeters thick long roller on which cloth IS wool and In the process Irregular pieces of wound while weaving The length of the roller matted and balled up wool are separated and IS about one meter but It vanes depending fibres get straightened upon the size of the loom The ends of the roller are fitted In the cut proVided In the two (II) Hand Spindle It IS about 25 cms long posts stuck deep In the ground a few feet piece of bamboo and a wooden whorl. The apart The weaver SitS In between the two bamboo piece serves the purpose of a parts The two round holes are made at the spindle A circular diSC known as whorl IS fixed right end of the roller and these cross each about 5 cms above the lower end and helps other in the centre The holes are gUided With 60 an Iron rod and serve as a ratchet wheel fitted loops through which the warp threads are In the fly shuttle loom An Iron bar of about 45 passed cms length IS passed through the hole which prevents the backward movement of the roller and holds the warp threads firmly at correct The healds used In the Pit loom are usually tension Simultaneously It also works as a made by the weavers themselves For rotator for winding the cloth prep~nng string leashes two loops are made which cross each other In the middle and are tied tightly to the top and bottom bars In a (II) Batten or beater It IS a wooden frame Into regular set of knots At the time of passing which reeds are fitted. The width of the upper a warp thread through the healds, each warp shaft IS about 15 cms to 20 cms while that of end IS first passed through the lower loop and the lower shaft IS about 75 centimeters with then through the upper loop In thIS way the thickness of about 1 7 cms The entire frame threads are kept apart from each other and IS suspended with two strings from a are adjusted well by the movements to form hOrizontal stICk which IS tied to the ceiling the shed for the weft thread The number of ThiS enables the batten to hang freely and IS healds used In loom depends upon the weave pushed backward and forward while weaving and the deSign to be woven Generally four healds are used (III) Reed It IS a long piece of smooth wood having thickness of 15 X 20 cms The steel (v) Hedd/e Horses These are four or SIX Wire reeds are also used The reeds having pieces of bamboo or wood haVing vanous different number of dents per centimeter are deSigns from which heddle bars are available from the market The dent IS defined suspended In a certam set order The heddle as the space between two striPS The size of horses having a length of 25 to 30 cms are the reed IS according to the number of dents tied to heddle frames In case of fly Shuttle or spaces per centimeter The number of looms whereas In case of pit-loom Its length dents or spaces are normally 5, 10, 12, 16 or IS about 20 ems It IS generally made of 20 to 25 ems For prodUCing cloth of finer "nagal" wood and IS either straight or ·V· quality reeds having more dents per shaped. On each end of the heddle horse a centimeter are used The reed IS dented With circular groove IS made and a cord IS tied to It weft yarn before fitting Into the batten cap so to link the heddle bars A Similar groove IS also as to beat the weft yarn to the fill of the cloth made in the centre of heddle horses where 20 ThiS also keeps the warp threads firmly In ems long cord is tied for linking two of them position to a small piece of wood which IS again tied With a string to the hOrizontal bar near the (IV) HeaJds or Heddles These consist of ceiling twine leashes The healds used In pltloom are different In compoSItion from those used In the fly shuttle looms For fly-shuttle looms the (VI) Lams' These are long sticks below each healds are purchased from the market The heald and hang parallel WIth cords from the two upper and bottom bars carrying stnng heddle bars When the paddles are pressed, leashes are fitted In a separate heddle frame these bars move upward and downward In The upper Side of the frame IS connected With regular turns and thus healds work Actually heddle horses and the lower With lams String healds, heddle horses pully, lams and pedals leashes have three loops One IS tied up to the are so Interconnected that when the pedals top bar and the other to the bottom bar where are pressed, the rest of the parts get Into the third loop IS made In the middle of two motion automatically 61

(VII) Pedals or Tread/es These are wooden the required place Two small eyelets are levers which are worked by feet There are provided on one Side of the shuttle and four pedals which are used In pairs For through one of the eyelets the end of the weft weaving a spaclflc texture even SIX or eight thread wound round the bobbin IS passed pedals can be used Normally these are fitted through With fingers The shuttle IS taken near from behind close to the bottom of the the mouth by the weaver as If he/she IS to kiSS weavers Pit The pedals are attached to lams It and the thread IS drawn In between his/her depending upon the weaver's convemence lips by mhalhng the air Because of thiS the and the design and texture of the cloth to be shuttle IS known as " kiss shuttle" and IS woven The Width of the pedal IS about 7 cms mainly used In fly shuttle looms In other type and length vanes between 30 to 38 cms of shuttle, a small eyelet IS provided on the Side near the opening The hollow portion of (VIII) Warp beam ThiS beam IS fitted the shuttle filled With weft yarn IS passed hOrizontally on two pegs behind the loom and through the eyelet from InSide and IS taken out IS comparatively thinner The tension of the by lips or teeth When the shuttle IS thrown warp thread IS controlled by the beam It IS from one end to the other through the warp, generally prepared by a carpenter the weft IS released The process of passing of the weft threads through the warp by thiS (1)1) Central Beam It IS used for keeping the method IS very old warp threads slightly raised In the middle It also keeps the threads apart and In correct (II) StIcks About a dozen sticks half to one order The size of the beam IS almost equal to metre long and about one centimeter In the size of the cloth or warp roller thickness are used In warping and for the weft yarn Calls In the cylinder shaped shuttles are (x) Temple It IS a flat wooden shaft With sharp used The sticks are normally made of "nagaI" pOint on both ends and IS invariably fixed wood The Winding of the weft on the sticks IS according to the Width of the cloth It also done In such a way that each time thread helps In keeping the Width of the cloth comes one above the other In various loops uniform After weaving about 15 cms of cloth, and In thiS way the thread IS prevented from the shaft IS released from ItS place and fixed getting entangled The weft yarn filled In the up near the warp threads stick IS emptied Into the hollow shuttle and It comes out of the same In a regular flow For (d) (I) Shuttle It IS a wooden structure which IS laYing warp threads around the peg, the used for passing the weft thread from left to warping sticks are used nght and vice versa through the shed made by the warp threads The shuttle has two or three (III) Bobbms. The bobbins are generally made shapes The common shuttle used by the of "nagaI" wood The smaller bobbins about Villagers IS shaped like a boat and the other 15 ems In length are used In boat shaped shuttle IS a simple round piece of wood or shuttles while the larger ones of about 20 cms bamboo The length of the shuttle IS about 25 long are used as "plrn" for preparing warp cms There IS a metalliC spindle fitted Into the threads round the warping sticks Weft yarn IS cavity of the boat shaped shuttle on which a wound around the smaller bobbins and then cylindrical bobbin carrying weft thread Inserted Into the spindle of the shuttle There IS revolves The shuttles are made by an eyelet prOVided on the Side of the shuttle carpenters There IS a rectangular shaped for releaSing the thread from the bobbin groove made In the central part of the slat of smoothly The warp threads are wound wood and tl1e two ends are shaped smooth around the large bobbins There IS a long stick and pOinted A spindle IS fl.xed With a hinge In haVing metal spindles at one end and filled up 62 spools are Inserted Into It The warp thread IS belonging to Lohara Village are weaving this laid around the pegs by alternating the deSign for the last 10-19 years Amongst such winding track. and thus the thread IS released 27 households, 13 weavers belong to Banog ' smoothly from these plrns or spools Village, 11 to Ban and 3 to Lohara Village As regards the educational qualifications of (IV) Bobbm wmder It has a spindle on which weavers using floral deSign, 8 are Illiterate, 10- bobbins are Inserted for winding thread over It literate without any educational standard, 8- It IS dnven by hand In villages the spinning pnmary and one IS middle pass Out of these wheel generally serves the purpose of a 27 households as many as twenty households bobbin winder Bobbin IS put Into the spindle conSider this deSign as non-traditional Heads fixed to the spinning wheel When the wheel of eleven households have been prepanng moves, the bobbin over the spindle revolves such deSign for the last less than 5 years, 5- The bobbins are fed by hank stand called between 5-9 years and 3 heads of households "charkhl" for the last ten years and more and In one household a weaver related as son to the (V) "Charkhl" or hank stand It IS made of head of the household IS using floral deSign bamboo sticks and revolves freely on a Pivot for the last 5-9 years As regards the For filling up bobbins the cage revolves on an educational qualifications of weavers who axle and thus thread IS released and fed to the conSider thiS deSign as non-traditional, 6 are bobbin Illiterate, 7 Without any educational level, 4 are pnmary and 3 are middle pass There are 10 (VI) Reed hook It IS about 15 cms long metal weavers belonging to Banogl vllla~e, 5 to Ban needle and has a small hook at one end This and 5 to Har Village needle IS qUite thin and passes through the dents of the reed for draWing warp ends from In each of the 15 households where the the back to the front weavers are related as Wife and son to the head of household they have been preparing (VII) Threadmg hook This hook IS used for geometncal deSigns for the last 20 years and inserting warp ends through the eyelets of the more In three households the heads healds Those weavers who use old healds of themselves are uSing thiS deSign for the last two loops are not uSing this hook In fact they 10-19 years All such households conSider the wind the warp ends In their nght hand fingers geometrical deSign as traditional one The and put In each one through the loops of the nur'nber of weavers uSing thiS deSign IS 10 In healds according to the deSigns Banogl Village, 6 In Barl Village and 4 In Lohara Village There are 8 households where the Type of designs: Generally traditional deSigns weavers conSider thiS deSign as non­ are used by the weavers However, they also traditional and of these 3 have been preparing get latest popular deSigns from the order thiS deSign for the last less than 5 years, 4 suppliers and vanous government agencies between 5-9 years and the remaining 1 for the The common deSigns mostly adopted by the last 10 years and above weavers are floral, geometnca/, all over doongn, Kulvl TypIcal, Kmnaun and Scenery There are two households where In each As per table 36, 25 heads of households case the head of household has been uSing Including one related as wife to head of "all over Doongn" deSign for the last 20 years household and another one related as son and above and conSider the same as have been prepanng floral deSigns for the last traditional The two households belong to 20 years and more They conSider this deSign Banogl Village and the heads of housenolds as traditional Two heads of households are primary pass In other 5 households, the 63 heads of four households and another weaver modifications have been carned out In the related as son to the head of household have traditional deSigns According to 21 been USing this design for the last 5-9 years households new floral deSigns have been and for them this design IS non-traditional All Introduced which give variety to the the weavers who consider thiS design as customers Of these, 6 households have been traditional or non-traditional belong to Banogl uSing these for the last less than 5 years, 7 Village Thus, It IS eVident from table 36 that between 5-9 years and 8 for 10 years and thiS design IS used by weavers of Banogl more New geometncal deSigns were Village only introduced by 9 households, all.over Doongrl by SIX households, KulVi typical by one Kulvi tYPical design IS used by weavers of household. Sometimes weavers prepare the Banogl Village In each of 8 households the deSign from their own thoughts. The deSigns heads of households consider thiS design as are also given to them by the private traditional and they have been uSing the same manufacturers Some times they also learn for the last 20 years and more For one head new deSigns dUring training which IS Imparted of household thiS design IS non-traditional and to them by the government departments Of he has been prepanng It for the last 5-9 years the weavers uSing new deSigns as many as 20 ThiS design IS In vogue In Banogl Village only fall In the age group of 15-34 years, 16 Four weavers uSing thiS design are literate weavers In the age group of 35-39 years and w1!hout any educational standard, three are only 3 weavers are In the age group of 60 primary pass and one IS middle Kmnau(l years and more design IS In use In Banogl Village There IS only Designs' DeSigns express the artistic bent of one household propagating thiS deSign In 26 mind of an artisan These also enhance the households plain weaving IS also being done beauty of the product which plays an In Banogl Village there IS no household Important roll In fetching remunerative wages engaged in plain weaving Of the 26 to the weavers. In Inventing deSigns the households, 13 belong to Har Village, 8 to artisan In fact puts In hiS heart and head The Lohara and 5 to Ban Village Most of the deSigns are in use since ancient times and weavers have been dOing plain weaving for these can conveniently be categorised Into the last 20 years and more In a household two I e traditional and new deSigns In the more than one type of deSign IS used and as category of traditional deSigns fall floral, such the households have been repeated Bulbul Chasam, Kmnaun, and plain while aI/­ accordingly The households uSing various over Doongn, Rocket, Belwa/a - Phoolwa/a, deSigns are not aware of any myth/legend Lehn, Scenery, Gulab are styled as new associated with the deSigns In their views deSigns Geometncal deSigns fall In both these deSigns are traditional or they have categones Statement IV 10 and IV 11 given learnt It from vanous government below furnishes Village-Wise details of agencles/pnvate manufacturers Keeping In different-designs used In the craft and the view the customers taste as well as to persons practising the same and different compete with the shawls etc manufactured by Items weaved along With the persons engaged the shawl weaving Industries, various In the craft 64

Statement IV 10

Different designs used 10 the craft and person (5) practising the same (Village-wise)

Name of village(s)

S! Name of Ban Banogl Har Lohara No Design Name of person Name of person Name of person Name of person

2 3 4 5 6

A Traditional

Floral Lobjang, Chamaru AmarChand, Radha, Nlrmala, Prakasho Devl, Ram, Tashl Ram, Jamna, TulaRam, Kamlesh, Feroja Devl, Dorja-Teshenng, Khekl Devl, Sukh Devl, Vldya Devl, Bresttl, Durn Uttam Chand, Satya Devl, Kasaulya Chand, T eshn Dolma, Hukam Ram, Kasaulya Devl, Blmla, Glan Chand Sodh Ram, Chanchalo Devl, Hlra Devl, Lal Chand, Raju Ram Plyan, Daulat Ram GOpl Ram, Gurdlal, Chanchalo Shiv Chand, Han Chand, Helu Devl, Sahg Ram

2 Bulbul Tundup, Lammo, AmarChand, Chasam & Hlra Lal, Bhagl Ram Khaki Devl, Floral Knshan Chand Uttam Chand, Hukam Ram, Sodh Ram, Helu Devi

3 Klnnaun Angmo Han Chand Prakasho Devl, Kasaufya

4 Floral & Teshenng Dorje Glano Devl, Kashmlro Devl, Geometncal Kahmln, Blmla, Feroja Klshnl Devl, DeV1, Raksha Rashml Devl, Devl, Vldya 5 Plain Reshml, Satya, Devl, Purshotaml weaving Sukh Devl, Parbhu Ram, (Without Kamla, Usha, Mansa Devl, Design) Shakuntla, Satya Devl, Satya Devl, Banto Devl, Kasaulya Devl, Bhagwantl Bljh Devl, Bishamban, Chanchalo Devi Ramplyan

B New Designs

Allover AmarChand, Dungn Noop Ram, Hukam Ram Gurdlal Singh ShiV Chand

2 Rocket Han Chand Design 65

2 3 4 5 6

3 Belwalaj Amar Chand, Phoolwala Gurdlal Singh, (Floral) Han Chand

4 Lehn Khekl Devl, Raju (Kulvl)

5 TYPical Dolma Tula Ram, Prakasho Devi (Kulvl) Uttam Chand, Kasaulya Sodh Ram, Lal Chand, Shiv Chand

6 Scenery Namglyal, TulaRam, Tara Devi Uttam Chand, GOpl Ram, Helu Devi

7 Floral Dorja Ram, Feroza Devl, (Gulabl, Yang Zen Kulvl, Beldar etc)

8 Geome- Feroza Devl, tncal Kasaulya, Mansa Devi

Statement IV 11

Different Items weaved In the craft and names of the persons engaged In the same (VIllage-wise)

Name of village(s)

SI Name of Ban Banogl Har Lohara No Items Name of person Name of person Name of person Name of person

2 3 4 5 6

Shawl Lobjang, Amar Chand, Radha, Nlrmala, Parkasho Devl, Chamaru Ram, Tula Ram, Kamlesh, Feroj3 Devl, Dolma, Tashl Ram, Uttam Chand, Sukh Devl, Kasaulya, Jamna, Tundup, Noop Ram, Satya Devl, Prabhu Ram, T eshlng DOrje, Hukam Ram, Ram Plyan, Mansa Davi Baghl Ram, Sodh Ram, Chanchlo Devi DOrje Teshlng GOpl Ram, Namglyal Gurdlal Singh, ShiV Chand, Han Chand

2 Pattooj Lobjang, Chamaru Ram, Amar Chand, Swarna, Nlrmala, Parkasho Devl, Patti Dolma, Tashl Ram, Tula Ram, Sukh Devl, Kshmlro Devl, Jamna, Lamo, Khekl Devl, Kamla, Satya Devl, Feroja Devl, T eshmg Dorja, Hlra Devl, Kasaulya Devl, Vldya Devl, Neema Ram, Bresttl, Hukam Ram, Bljl! Devl, Purshotaml, 66

2 3 4 5 6

leshlng Dolma, LalChand, Chanchalo Devi Mansa Devl, Knshan Chand, GOpl Ram, Ram Plyan Banto Devl, Hlra Lal, lundup Gurdlal Singh, Bhagwatl Han Chand, Sallg Ram

3 Muffler Jamna Devl, Lamo, lula Ram Knshan Chand, Hln Devl, Namglyal

4 Border Baghl Ram Khekl Devl, Hlra Devl, Rooml Devl, Lal Chand, Raju, GOpl Ram, Helu Devi

5 Chaddar Amar Chand, Parkasho Devl, Tula Ram, Feroja Devi Uttam Chand, GOpl Ram 6 Plain Glano Devl, Kashmlro Devi Khaddar Kashmlfl, Kishm Blmla, Feroja Cloth Devl, Rashml, Devl, Rakha Devl, Devl, Rashml, Vldya Devl, Satya Devl, Parbhu Ram, Kamla, Usha, Mansa Devl, Shakuntla, Satya Devl, Satya Devl, Banto Devl, Bljl! Devl, Bhagwantl Bishambn, Ram Plyan CHAPTERV

Marketing

As per the general principles of economics products constitute only a small proportlor. of the demand and supply are interlinked the total demand as compared to the mill Greater the demand, bigger IS the scope for made products Further the mill made supply by the manufacturing units It IS also an products which have got good finish, are more established fact that marketing plays an attractive In design and are also comparatively important and crucial role In conditioning the cheaper The availability of raw matenal With volume of production/trade of each Item In the people IS also on decline as many of them the recent years not only the big Industrial are not enthusiastic enough to rear the sheep umts, but, medium and small Units are also and goats which are the main sources for the taking care of this aspect and are making supply of raw matenal The main reasons for available sufficient funds for conducting not dOing so are the non-availability of marketing surveys and research In the case suffiCient man power for tending the animals of cottage and small scale Industnes where and due to the enforcement of various forest the units are not big enough the research and laws and marked shrinkage In the area of analytical studies are being done by the pastures oWing to spurt In human population government agencies and the cooperative It Will not be wrong to say that the weaving Institutions/societies and the organisations of profeSSion except In few areas of Kullu where such Industries For proper growth of Shawl making is popular due to the tOUrists industries In a particular region/place, the demands IS almost stagnating In other parts of essential ingredients are the availability of raw the State ThiS has been due to the reason matenal Infrastructure facilities, skilled and that- the weavers do not have lucrative and unskilled labour both In terms of numbers and remunerative full time work It has been competitive wages and proper marketing observed that the number of weavers IS facIlities In the present survey the questions gradually decreasing as the employment relating to raw material as well as marketing of opportunities prOVided elsewhere are more the products were also enqUired from the paying due to the various sponsored schemes selected households. of the government. Secondly the craftsmanship acquired by the local weavers Most of the selected households have been cannot compete With the Similar placed catering to the requirements of the persons elsewhere Thirdly With the Change In local/adjoining villages. In most of the cases the patronage of products the demand IS not the yarn IS provided by the customers and the maintaining the trend The profeSSion IS being weavers get only the wages either In c~sh or In continued by majority of the households kind However, With the spread of education because of the reason that the persons and gradual loosening of Village ties, the engaged have no other avenues of Jajmani system IS 'on the decline and very few employment weaver's households are In receipt of fixed amount of grains at the time of each harvest Regarding spinning, the craft IS being Another reason for the decline of thiS practice practised mostly by the elderly people In the is also attributed to tl1e fact that the weaver's upper hili areas where the Himachal Pradesh 68

Khadl and Village Industries Board supplies II H P Handloom & Handicraft CorporatIOn the raw matenal The craft, IS no doubt, getting some encouragement In the villages which are 1 Himachal EmpOrium, Mandl 2 Himachal EmpOrium, Dharamsala being patronized by the Himachal Pradesh 3 Himachal EmpOrium, Nahan Khadl and Village Inaustrles Board or other 4 Himachal Empoflum, Hamlrpur government agencies, but, on the whole the 5 Himachal EmpOrium, Chamba craft IS gradually vanishing because the 6 Himachal EmpOrium, DalhOUSie 7 Himachal EmpOrium, Solan households do not have adequate raw 8 Himachal EmpOrium, Kalpa material VIZ cotton/wool as the rearing of 9 Himachal EmpOrium, Kullu animals has become more difficult due to the 10 Himachal EmpOrium, Shlmla lack of man power required for getting the fodder for these animals BeSides, spinning In addition, the government has also been culture has changed In the rural areas where Issuing vanous Instructions from time to time majority of women folk have started taking to ItS departments for purchaSing the products active part In cultivation activities and they produced by the Himachal Pradesh Khadl & have practically no time for concentrating on Village Industries Board and ItS various spinning subsidiary Units Further more, the people are also attracted to go In for these products at Most of the weavers In the state and the time when special rebates are allowed especially In the selected villages are getting In order to faCilitate the marketing of the raw matenal (yarn) I e wool from the products, Himachal Pradesh Khadl and Village customers or from the government agencies Industries Board and the Himachal Handloom The weavers who are manufactUring the and Handicraft Corporation have established products on their own account become their outlets at the dlstnct and other Important disheartened when they are unable to places In the state These organizations have dispose-off their products at reasonable profit also made arrangements With their sister and well within time resulting Into financial organizations In other states for seiling the constraints Naturally these factors are the products The details of trading outlets are main Impediments In the growth of the units given In statement V-1 No doubt, the government and vanous other agencies have opened emporia at various In addition, stalls are also being set up at places In the state as well as at Important vanous exhibitions and fairs both Within and places In other parts of the country to out side the Pradesh With regard to the populanse and propagate the use of products market research activities the Himachal manufactured by the weavers of the state Pradesh Khadl and Village Industries Board Himachal Pradesh Handloom and Handicraft Statement V 1 Corporation Invariably get the feed back either Sale-Depots run by H P Khadl & Village Industries trom their sale outlets or from the field staff It Board and H P Handloom & Handicraft Corporation has also been gathered from the diSCUSSions I H P Khadl & Village Industries Board held With the officers of these bodies that the 1 Sale Emporium, Mandl volume production of these organizations 2 Sale Emporium, Arkl mostly depend upon the government's 3 Sale Emporium, Paprola 4 Sale Emporium, Bilaspur patronage With regard to Increase the 5 Sale Emporium, Una availability of raw matenal, woollen yarn mills 6 Sale Emporium, Nahan have been set up In the state and there IS a 7 Sale Emporium, Chamba proposal to set up a wool corporatlcn for ItS 8 Sale Emporium, Hamlrpur 9 Sale Emporium, Kullu collection and dlstnbutlcn of more rational 10 Sale Emporium, Shlmla baSIS All these efforts are Instrumental for 69 growth of the craft, but, there IS stili much length of more than 500 mtrs each per more to be done In thiS respect annum

Production of vanous Items by the In addition the various government surveyed households agencies like Handicraft and Handloom Corporation Ltd , Khadl and Village Industries 8 households (5 of Banogl village, 2 of Board pay the wages only depending upon Lohara and one of Har village) are mostly the quality of the product and the weavers engaged In the weaving of chaddars. The seldom keep any record of such production annual production of each household of Banoql villaqe durinq 1985-86 was 25 pieces Statement V 2 or less while In the case of weavers In Lohara Number of households who disposed of handicrafts & Har villages It vaned between 26 to 50 Items through various sources pieces As many as 43 households are manufactunng pattoos It has been observed Name of Directly Sold Sold to that due to cold climate the use of pattoo is finished t" the through shop­ more common In the state and moreover the products consumers Co-opera- keepers tive wool IS easily available with most of the Societies households which facilitates the spinning On an average the production of pattoo vaned 2 3 4 between 26 to 50 pieces per annum per Shawl 22 6 2 household In the case of 30 households (4 of Banogl village, 7 of Har, 9 of Lohara and 10 of Chaddar 7 Ban village) There are only 6 households whose production vaned between 50 or more Pattoo 42 per annum per household (3 of Har, 2 of Ban Muffler 5 and 1 of Banogl village) There are only 7 households (6 of Banogl and 1 of Har) whose Patti 3 production was 25 or less pieces per Border 9 household per annum Only 3 households (2 of Ban and 1 of Banogl) are manufacturing Khaddar 10 6 mufflers between 26 to 50 pieces per annum KhesjKhesl 7 while In the case of another three the production was more than 50 pieces per household There are only 16 households (12 of Har and 4 of Lohara village) who are also The number of households manufacturing engaged In the weaving of Khaddar. 1 handicraft items claSSIfied by place of sale IS household out of 12 households given In statement V.2 above The data given belonging to Har village IS manufacturing reveals that the place of sale of articles was about 200 mtrs or less of Khaddar In a year, 7 normally confined wlthm the Village Of 30 between 201 to 500 mtrs each and four are households manufactunng shawls, 6 preparing more than 500 mtrs each, per households of Banogl Village were sellmg their annum Each of four households of Lohara shawls through ~he local cooperatIve village are weaving 201-500 mtrs of Khaddar societies Another 2 nouseholds of the Village per annum 3 households of 8anogl village are were seiling the products to the shopkeepers weaving border length of 201-500 mtrs each of Kullu etc Another 22 households I e 8 each per annum while 6 households of 8anogl of Ban and Har Village, 4 of Lohara and 2 of village and 1 of Ban village are weaving border Banogl Village were dispOSing of shawls 70 directly to the local customers either In the 6 Khaddar Rs 075/- village or In the adjoining villages, 4 Rs 1/- P mtr households of Banogl Village, 2 of Lohara and 1 of Har were seiling their products VIZ 7 Muffler Rs 8/- chaddars to the local people One household Rs 10/- per piece of Banogl Village was seiling chaddars directly to the shopkeepers etc. A maJonty of 42 8 Border Rs 8/- households were seiling pattoos within the Rs 10/- per mtr Village 9 Shawl Kulvi Rs 25/- Rs 725/- Five households were dispOSing of mufflers directly to the local customers within the It has been observed dunng the field Village Further 3 households dealt In patti, 1 In enquiry that most of the weavers were not border while 10 dealt In Khaddar and 7 In khes enthusiastic enough to purchase raw matenal and khes/s. The number of households seiling from the market due to vanous reasons This these products to the shopkeepers or Khadl & reluctance was partly due to financial Village Industnes Board was 9 In case of constraints and partly due to non-availability of border, 6 in case of khaddar and 1 each In raw material as well as lack of case of muffler and pattoo. In fact, most of the competitiveness Hence, most of the weavers items which were bemg woven by the weavers get raw matenal either from the concerned were disposed of within the Village or In the customers or from the Institutions of the adjoining villages due to the fact that In most government/ co-operative societies Other of the cases except In the case of Kullu area reasons which are responsible for making the yarn was being supplied by the person these units not viable are lack of raw matenal who ordered the weaving of products and the and market facIlities coupled with lack of weavers was only concerned with the wages Initiative from the weavers ThiS IS one reason which were mostly governed by the type and that the Industry IS In a stagnating state Some design of the articles Mostly, the weavers of the cooperative units have come up In I< Jliu were getting wages on piece rate baSIS which area where there IS a large Influx of tOuriStS normally ranged as follows due to which there IS an appreciable demand for the local shawls but some of the cooperative institutions engaged In the trade 1 Shawl (Plain) Rs. 7/- Rs.25/­ are either suffering from local rivalries or due to lack of reasources Generally, the 2 Shawl (Designed) Rs.25/- 100/­ weavers charge 10 to 15 percent margin of (depending profit which IS not suffiCient as the transactions upon the deSign) are not much

3 Shawl (allover Rs 210/- Doongn) The follOWing statement V 3 depicts 4. Pattoo (Plain) Rs 15/- Rs 40/­ quantity of finished products sold In three broad ranges VIZ (I) upto 25 pieces, (II) 26-50 pieces and (III) 51 and more pieces 5 Pattoo (Designed) Rs 100/- Rs 150/- 71

Statement V.3

The number of households and finished products sold in various broad ranges

No of households who sold

Item Upto 25 26-50 51 + <200 201-500 501 + pieces pieces pieces mtrs mtrs mtrs 2 3 4 5 6 7

Shawl 10 13 7

Pattoo 19 18 6 Muffler 3 " Patti 3

Border 3 7

Khaddar 11 4

Chaddar 6 2

KhesjKhesl 4 3

The products manufactured were mostly the state The increase In the numbel of sold locally within the village or In the weavers IS partly attributed to popula'Lion adjoIning villages As a matter of fact, explOSion and lack of diversification of the productIon available with most of the weavers occupation The production espeCially of is not suffIcIent which can be exported to other woollen textIle has, however, not Increased parts of the state or to other states However, which IS due to stIff competItion from the mill Bhuttl-Co-operatlve Weavers Society had set made products In addition, there IS a decline up Its outlets at various places in the state for In the availability of raw wool With maJonty seiling their products Besides, weavers of of households Pashmma shawls located at Nurpur etc. do The details of the households who had send their products to Deihl and other reported difficulties In disposIng-of their Important cIties In the country Of 30 fInished products alongwlth their level of households seilIng shawls, 10 were seiling education are given In table 44. Amongst the upto 25 p,eces per annum per household, 13 surveyed households, as many as 17 had households each between 26 to 50 pieces and reported that the raw matenal was not 7 households were selling more than 50 available at reasonable rates A majority of 46 pieces As regards quantity of pattoo sold, 19 households were of the view that It was not households each were seiling less than 25 possible for them to compete With the mill pieces, 18 households between 26 to 50 made Items, whereas another 26 households pieces and 6 househ~lds were sellmg more were of the view that the raw material was not than 50 pieces Each of 3 households made available to them at reasonable rates as were seiling less than 25 pieces of The patti. well as It IS not posSible to compete WIth average length of a pattf IS about 5 metres With factory made products With the development breadth of about half meter. of motor transport in the area and settling of a On the whole the number of weavers has number of Tibetan Refugees In the state increased considerably almost every where m especially In the tounst belt of Dharamsala, 72

Kullu and Shlmla, the shawl and shawls which IS proving rUinous to the carpetjNamda Industry received a set-back as Industry The sick Industry can be reVived If a good number of Tibetan ladles Invariably sell the government and other agencies take the Ludhlana made shawls on the road-side vigorous steps In the shape of prOViding liberal which has got a dampening effect on the local financial assistance to the artisans, products, as the design and texture of organisation of cooperative societies and Ludhlana made shawls/chaddars are almost prOViding faCilities of marketing and raw Identical with the local products and It matenal becomes difficult for a common eye to To sum up, the weavers are faCing distingUish between the two In short, In order problGms both with regard to the availability of to give a boost to the local Industry, the raw mCltenals 3S well the marketing faCilities In Initiatives are needed to be taken by the addition to the cut throat competition from the government as well as by the cooperat ,M mill made products However the availability of societies In the form of providing flnarl('.,-:' raw rr.dterlal has been eased to some extent assistance to the purchase of raw matenal ar ..J With the setting up of yarn mills at Shamshl In eqUipment, adequate training and rG.::.,garch Kullu district and Nalagarh and Baddl In Solan faCIlities and ensuring marketing facilities to dlstnct It will be more benefiCial for the the weavers weavers espeCially In the unorganlsed sector If the yarn IS made available to them In suffiCient It has been observed dUring the field survey quantity at reasonable rates ThiS can be that the weaving profession IS lOSing the past pOSSible If the government deVises such a glory There are many reasons for this distribution agency which can reach to th.e situation Firstly there IS a change In the taste workers at grass root level Another of consumers which IS the only criteria for suggestion In thiS respect IS that the weavers generating demand for the goods should be given some loans/advances at Secondly the production of raw material IS concesslonal rates for the purchase of raw also decreaSing day by day as the reanng of matenal ThiS can be done either through the sheep and goats is becoming less popular agency of the commerCial banks or with the well-to-do agnculturlst families due to cooperative banks Regarding marketing, vanous reasons like shortage of man power to the problem of competition from mill made tend the animals, shortage of fodder etc products carl be countered by Improving the Thirdly the weaving has various processes quality of the products as well as making It which are In fact very slow and the wages comparatively cheap by redUCing the margin earned from It are not commensurate with the of profit by middle men Another factor time put In by the artisans The Industry largely which IS worthwhile to mention IS that the depends upon the government patronage weavers should be organised Into vanous especially the Khad/ which IS being used for cooperative SOCieties In a big way so that they the untforms but with the shift to Terry cloth, may b\J able to get the whole-time the demand IS dWindling BeSides bulk of the employment In the profeSSion and may not sales are affected dunng the vanous packages have to worry for the disposal of their of rebates and In order to make the Industry products The government may Also stand on ItS legs, It has to be boosted with populanse th~ r.:roducts by sending the same regard to the quality of products. The training to other statt; yovernment empona and stalls faCilities prOVided by the various agenCies The systems of prOViding various s9.les have not attracted the talented artisans The rebates would accelerate the production and shawl Industry of the state IS suffering from also create a permanent demand for the tough competition from Ludhlana made products CHAPTER VI Craft and Employment

Period of Origin: Not much IS known about professions, concentration of weavers In an the ongin of this craft. However, It IS an area/village depends upon the population of undisputed fact that clothing IS one of the the village and ItS hinterland. The distribution essential requirement of the human being after of the households who had reported about the food The necessity of clothing arises not only initial start of the craft In the village is given In due to the growth of cIVIlization, but, It IS table 45. Insplte of the probing questions put one of the basIc requirement for survival of to the informants It is disappointing to mention the human being as something IS required to that all the 60 households have reported that cover the human body against the vagaries of they are not aware of the period when thiS weather. The type of protection which is craft was Initially started in the village. Of required to cover the human body underwent these, 20 heads of households fall in the age­ a splendid change from CIVIlization to group of 15-34 years, 31 in the age group of CIVIlization. After encountering the problems of 35-59 years and 9 In the age group of 60 + . food, the human being considered the necessity of protecting the body ThiS started Households and persons engaged in the from the bark of the trees to the skins of Craft animals and to cotton/silk and woollen clothing. Now, With the advancement of Table 46 depicts the number of households technology peopl~ have sWitched over to 'and persons engaged In the craft in the Village synthetiC clothes The type of clothes which a at the end of each decade starting from "prior human being wears now depends upon the to 1940 " Out of 20 heads of households In the financial resources available With him, weather age group of 15-34, 7 households had conditions and the age factor In addition to the reported that there were less than 5 weaver's sex -Hence, the demand for clothes IS largely households prior to 1940 In their respective governed by these factors The question Villages. Another 3 households reported that regarding the origin of the craft in the village or the number of weaving households varied area was also Included In the household between 5-9 and majority of the schedule and out of 60 households surveyed households i e. 10 had reported that the during the study not even a Single household number of such households were more than was able to answer thiS question specifically. 10 in their respective Villages prior to 1940. Some of them could only mention that they The number of households who had reported were the descendents of Saint Kablr who more than 10 weavers increased to 12 at the appeared on the scene of Indian history end of 1960 and 20 at the end of 1970-80, but, during the 15th century. As regards the advent the figure of 20 had to be taken With some of the craft in the village, bulk of the weavers limitations No doubt, these households were are of the view that the craft is in operation in primarily belonging to the weaving class, but, the village for the last 2-3 generations. They some of the households were not actually In are not aware about the prevIous history of the the profeSSions at the time of survey craft except that oWing to the caste system prevailing in the area the craft had passed Of 31 heads of households of 35-59 age­ from generation to generation and like other group, 3 had reported that the number of 74 weaving households was less than 5 In their number decreased to 19 which further respective villages. 8 had reported that the decreased to 8 dunng 1980. The remaining 21 weaving households vaned between 5-9 and households reported that the number of the remaining 20 households had reported weavers was more than 20 pnor to 1940 but that their respective Villages were having more the number of households showed an upward than 10 weaving households prior to 1940. At trend at the time of the field enquiry when 52 the end of 1950 only one household had households reported that the number of reported that the number of weaving weavers In their respective Villages was mbre households was less than 5 In the Village. than 20 persons Similarly, the number of households reporting the weaving families at the end of 1950-60 Reasons for variation in the number of decreased to some extent. At the end of 1980, households/persons the number of weaving households had Increased in all the selected villages. ThiS was The vanatlon In the number of households due to Increase in the disintegration of Joint and the persons engaged m the craft pnor to family system and lack of adequate 1940 has been given In table 47 Of the employment opportunities In other fields. selected households, 11 household~ (5 of Besides the craft can be practised without Banogl and 6 of Ban) had reported that the much investment and eaSily learnt from the Increase in the number of households as well family members. There are only 9 heads of as the persons IS due to appreciable demand households of 60'+ age group One for the products of local craftsmen whereas household had reported that prior to 1940 the the weavers of Lohara and Har villages had number of weaving households varied reported otherwise Another 4 households of between 5-9 In his Village whereas the other 8 Banogl Village are of the view that the craft had t)ouseholds had reported that the number of expanded both In quality as well as In quantity weaving families was more than 10 In their due to the Increased traming facilities proVided respective Villages In the subsequent years, by the various government agencies and other there was a marginal Increase In the number incentives being given under the plan and of households connected with the weaving non-plan programmes of the vanous profession government departments No doubt thiS factor contributed a bit to revive the craft but stili The information regarding the number of more needs to be done to make the craft person engaged In the craft was also asked Viable and attractive A big chunk of the starting from "prior to 1940" onwards and has selected households i e 37 (20 of Har Village, been compiled In table 46 Out of 60 7 of Ban and 5 each of Banogl and Lohara households selected for the Intensive enquiry Villages) are of the view that the Increase In the as many as 20 households had reported that number of households as well as the persons prior to 1940 there were less than 10 weavers engaged In the craft IS due to disintegration of In their respective villages The number of JOint family system as well as due to such households decreased to 18 In 1950 and population explOSion As a matter of fact only 11 In 1960 At the end of 1970 and 1980 each those households are now practising thiS Village was having more than 10 weavers profeSSion who are engaged therein from Another 19 households were of the view that generation to generation and are In receipt of the number of weavers vaned between 10-19 vanous Incentives provided by the persons In their respective villages prior to government agencies The households 1940. The number of such households belonging to non-traditional families are not Increased to 21 at the end of 1950 and 25 at adopting thiS profeSSion 3 households had the end of 1960 but at the end of 1970 the reported that the Increase in the number of 75 households and the persons engaged In the either cultivators or working as agricultural weaving profession was mainly due to lack of labourers or as casual workers with adequate employment opportunities in other vanous state government agencies especially professions There are only 5 households of the public works department It would not be Lohara village who are of the view that there is wrong to mention that in most of the cases no substantial Increase In the numbpr of this craft is being practised to supplement the households and the persons engaged irr the family Income rather than as a source of profession as there IS no Inclination on the livelihood Undisguised under employment part of the members of the households to has not only been observed among weavers adopt this profession as a way of life They are but In the rural community also There are only of the view that the growth of weaving Industry 2 persons of 15-34 age group reported to be has not picked up due to non-availability of unemployed Of these, one petson was raw matenal and marketing faCilities unemployed for the last 1 to'2 vears and the other was unemployed for the last one year or As per table 48, a majonty of less With regard to the level of education of households have stated that they are In the these unemployed persons, one IS Illiterate profession from generation to generation. Out while the other IS graduate and above. The of 60 surveyed households, 58 households fall later had not made any attempt to get In this category The castewlse break up of employment and at the same time IS not these households IS 13 each of chamar and Interested to be a weaver whereas the former kmnaura communities and the remaining 32 was a bit mentally retarded and worked only belonging to kabirpanthl sect Another 2 when he was fit households of chamar community one each entered the profession on the persuasion of Reasons for disintegration his brother and after getting training from the government Institution respectively The vanous reasons for disintegration of the craft have been tabulated in tables 50 and The data regarding duration of the craft 51 The weavers of Har and Lohara villages being practised by the households was also are of the view that the craft has disintegrated collected and tabulated The data given In POSSibly they are correct to some extent as table 49 reveals that of the surveyed the consumption pattern In a majonty of the households as many as 36 constituting 60 people IS undergOing change due to (I) percent are engaged In the craft for the last 20 Increase In the family Income resulting In years or more 14 households or 23 03 better liVing standard and thus giVing percent are dOing the weaving work for the nse to the demand of clothes of better texture last 10-19 years, 7 for 5-9 years and 3 were and deSign as compared to khaddar, khes and practising for the last 5 years or less None of khesls and (II) the non-availability of logar the Informant was speCifiC about the ongln of (used cotton of qUilts etc.) with majority of the craft In the village households and moving of women folk to other economic actiVities, the spinning With Problem of unemployment the middle class families has become a thing of past and as a result there IS neither much In fact, the problem of unemployment does production nor demand for home made not call for much attention Like other states In dums, khes and khaddar On the other hand the rural areas, most of the people can move the households belonging to Banogl and Ban from one occupation to the other eaSily and Villages are haVing qUite different views about weavers of Himachal Pradesh are no the craft Majonty of them are of the view that exception Almost all the households are due to Increase In the Influx of tOUrists there IS 76 a very good scope for the development of reveals that 8 belong to kablrpanthl, 5 to shawl and chaddar Industry In the area as the chamar and the remaining 7 belong to tounsts have craze for Kullu shawls They Kmnaura community Of these households 6 are of the view that the Industry can be had given up the craft for the last less than 5 organised on more stable and sound footing If years, 4 between 5 to 9 years and 9 between the government ensures certain remedial 10 to 19 years and remainmg 1 was out of the steps. profeSSion for more than 20 years Majority of the households I.e. 15 had not found thiS craft Measures for revival comparatively profitable According to them the earnings are not commensurate with the The various measures suggested for the amount of labour put In the job They seldom revival of the craft have been depicted In table purchase raw matenal due to financial 52. Thirty two households belonging to limitations Besides thiS they have hardly kabirpanthi sect had suggested that (I) the raw enough work at hand which could keep them matenal should be supplied both timely as engaged through-out the year. 2 households well as at reasonable rates by the govt., (II) the had to leave the profession due to phYSical loans should be provided at preferential rate of disabilities. The remaining households had to Interest, (III) the infrastructure of marketing leave the craft for non-availability of raw should be ensured, (v) thorough and intensive matenal either due to lack of finanCial support exploration regarding the demand projection from the government or due to family should be ensured, (v) thorough and mtenslve cIrcumstances Regardmg educational level of training and (VI) organization of the weavers these households 5 are Illiterate, 3 literate Co-operative Societies should be ensured without any educational level, 4 primary The g-overnment initiated various steps for the pass, 2 middle and one matnc pass Of the development of weaving Industry but all these remaining 5 households, the heads of 3 measures 6re not sufficient to bnng Aouseholds are literate without any the craft on sound footing due to lack of educational level and one each as Illiterate resources and determination on the part of and pnmary pass artisans. Of these households, 6 are working as Non-practising households labourers, 3 as cultivators, 2 each as shopkeepers (grocery), tailor-master and taxI As a part of the field work the questionnaire dnver and one each as agncultural labourer, was also canvassed among the households conductor In state transport, motor mechanic who were practising this craft sometime back and seller of pan, bldl cigarette, etc A female but had now left due to one reason or the head of the household has been reported as other. The data regarding non-practising engaged In household duties The heads of households has been depicted in Appendix II hou~eholds accordmg to broad age groups, (tables 1-18). Under this category, 20 12 fall in the age-group of 35-59 years, 6 In 15- households were selected from 4 Villages, the 34 years and the remaining 2 In 60+ group Of break-up being 5 from Banogl, 7 from Ban, 5 the households who were not practising the from Har and 3 from Lohara Villages The craft at the time of the survey, 8 belong to vanous reasons reported by the households kablrpanthl sect, 7 to kmnaura and 5 to for leaVing the craft have been analysed In chamar community The Kmnaura community tables 12 to 19 Of 20 households the heads weavers had to do other jobs/work as their of 17 households are males and of the earnings were not suffiCient The chamar remaining 3 households are females. The community weavers had to leave the craft for castewlse break-up of these households want of raw matenal and other facilities from 77 the government agencies at subsidized rates households for the development of craft have Four households of kablrpanthl had to leave been given In table 19 of appendix. II 3 the craft for want of proper wages One households belonging to chamar community household left the craft due to non-availability were of the view that the craft has a bnght of raw matenal and disability future as the products are stili In demand due to the art With which these are woven It has Question regarding the possibility of their also been observed that Himachal Pradesh re-deployment was also enquired and out of which IS fast coming up on the tOUrist map of 20 households only 3 households belonging the country can have good potentialities of to chamar community are of the view that they meeting the demand of the tounsts to buy the are available to the Industry If the Infra­ local products Instead of bUying the mill made structural facilities and other Subsidies are products Although the heads of the 3 liberally provided to them The educational households were themselves dOing other level of the heads of such households was work like cultivation, tallonng or working on Illiterate, literate without any educational level the road side, but, stili they are of the view that and primary pass All these 3 households at If the weavers are properly motivated and the time of survey were working as labourers various faCIlities are provided, the craft can be on road-construction work with the Public revived and It can attain ItS old glory The Works Department heads of all 3 households fall In the age group In table 17 preferences of sons & of 35-59 years daughters of the weavers In respect of The reasons for the adverSity of the crail traditional occupation have been tabulated 13 were advocated by 17 households The households considered the craft as un­ reasons may broadly be summarised as (I) profitable and as such they did not think that change In consumer preference, (II) non­ their sons and daughters should associate availability of raw matenal at reasonable rates with the weaving work Of these, 3 are as well as ItS timely supply, (III) lack of cultivators, 2-shopkeepers, 5-road labourers, adequate marketing faCIlities for the finished 1 each as agricultural labourer and tailor and products, (IV) In the rural areas where the the female head of one household reported weavers are mostly concentrated the local househ01d duties as her main activity Another people are not haVing the capacity to make 7 households reported that the traditional Immediate payments, (v) there should be occupation was not lucrative which could constant research on the deSign and pattern provide a reasonable standard of liVing to their of the products which may enable to Withstand family members The professlons/occupatlon­ the competition and (vi) the weavers should wise break-up reveals that 2 were working as be provided With adequate work load so that taxi dnvers, one each as tailor and conductor there IS no compulsion for them to divert their In the State transport, labourer, motor attention and energy to other profeSSions/ mechaniC and shopkeeper With regard to trades The crux of the suggestions regarding literacy In respect of the households which did reVival of ItS glory IS that all the households not want their sons/daughters to take up this are of the view that the government should craft the heads of 6 households were Illiterate, come forward In a big way by proViding 5 Without any educational level, 6 primary various Incentives to the persons engaged In pass, 2 middle and the remaining one as the trade matnc pass Prosperity/adversity of the craft Views of the weavers The reasons for the prospenty / adversity of All the 60 selected households who were the craft in the past and the views given by the practising the craft are of the view that this 78 cratt used to be the source of their livelihood reported that they are In a better economic till sometime past as the number of weavers condition by working In this craft as compared were not much and the people were satisfied to other occupations Literacy-wise, the heads with the hand woven cloth because of their of ~ households are Illiterate, 11 literates simple living and due to non-avallabilrty of mill Without any educational level, 8 primary pass made goods & lack of purchasing power The and one middle 13 households reported that problem was not so acute In the state as the the products manufactured by them stili have raw wool was available In abundance In the an edge In the market, 5 households higher hills and cotton In the lower hills Hence considered that the craft IS stili paYing as they the people were accustomed to and rece'lve remunerative wages while 9 contented with the Khadl goods With the households were of the view that the craft also spread of education there IS definitely presents the potentialities/opportunities to diversification of occupation in the Villages In other members of the households either to addition, with the development of road work or assist In various processes transport which has facIlitated the coming up depending upon the availability of time at their of small and medium size establishments disposal One household has reported that the even In the Intenor of the state, the availability Installation of fly-loom shuttle has of cheaper substitutes has become more considerably Increased the efficiency of the common. As per table 54, 25 households of households resulting In higher production the kabirpanthl sect were of the opinion that The remaining 32 households have reported the employment potential of the craft IS that the practising of the craft has not gradually decreasing and at present With the Improved their financial position. Of these exception of few households most of the households, 7 reported that the demand for weavers are under employed The remaining the weaving products has not Increased 35 households (15 of chamar community, 7 of proportionately With the Increase In the kabirpanthi and 13 of kmnaura) are of the view number of persons engaged In the trade as that the craft IS stili having potentiality and IS well as the Increase In the over all level of providing gainful employment to most of the liVing The wages are so meagre that households They are also of the view that as sometimes the craft does not attract good the craft IS being practised on hereditary talent Another factor for thiS unremunerative basis, the membe(s can take up the trade condition can also be ascnbed to the fact that Without wasting much time In learning most of the customers are either local people various ~ocesses as well as much or the people from the adjOining Villages who Investment But they were also of the view that normally do not have ready cash to make the things can Improve further by taking payments of wages They prefer to make the certain essential steps like supply of fly­ payment In kind and that too generally at the shuttle, warp and weft, finishing machines, time of harvest The remaining households etc. and supply of raw matenal and have reported that the craft no longer remains dependable marketing of the finished a profitable occupation due to the reason that products because of the lack of finanCial resources they can hardly manufacture the goods of their own and for raw matenal they have either to Impact on the Economic Condition depend on the vanous government agencies or on the customers In case some weavers The data regarding Impact of the craft on prefer to manufacture their products they are the economic condr~on of the selected handicapped In dispOSing of the same at households have been depicted In table 55. reasonable pnces Hence, the craft no longer As many as 28 households or 46 67 percent attracts good number of artisans 79

Motivation In Pursuing the craft households with regard to the younger The Information I e!:jcll ding the motivation of generation of their community for taking/not their sons and daughters In pursuing the craft taking mterest m the craft There are 23 l1as been given In table 56 As many as 23 households who have reported that their households or 38 33 percent of the selected younger generations are taking adequate households were of the opinion that their off­ Interest In developing and settling In the craft sprrngs should also adopt this craft as their while maJonty of the households I e 37 have profession. Of these 5 stated that their opinion reported otherwise Of these households, 31 IS based on the fact that there IS no other reported that younger generation can be profession which can SUIt them more as better deployed m some other occupation 4 compared to the weaving Another 5 households reported that their wards could be households consider that the hereditary factor absorbed In various government Jobs after plays a significant role In determining the getting proper education One household occupation/profession of their sons and each have advanced the reason of finanCial daughters 4 households advocated that by and marketing constraints while the remaining deploYing their children in this profession they one household has not given any opinion In could augment their family Income In the the matter views of 6 households the employment Circumstances leadmg to take up the craft opportunities are becoming more scarce due to population explosion and It IS easier to The circumstances which compelled/ settle their children In the family unit rather motivated the weavers to take up the craft than to go m for other sort of employment have been given m table 59 In majority of the which IS not only difficult but also poses other households, the weavers were motlvated/ challenges like leaVing their ancestral home or pursuaded by their parents to adopt the craft acquiring a particular type of education/ Of these households 2 were In the profession training The remaining 3 households reported for less than 5 years, 5 between 5-9 years, 10 that the craft stili holds bnght future as the between 10-19 years and the remaining 33 products being manufactured by them are m were In the profeSSion for the last 20 years or good demand No doubt, With the Increase In more As many as 10 households reported the tounst activities the weavers who are that they have settled In the craft as no other settled along the main roads in the tounst option was available to them 4 of such complexes certamly have a good prospect to households were domg weaving work for the further develop their unit/Industry A maJonty last 10-19 years, 3 between 5-9 years, 2 for the of the households Ie 37 constituting 61 67 last 20 years and more and one is workmg for percent of the total area are of the view that It less than 5 years In the case of 53 would be better If their sons and daughters do households, the profeSSion adopted by them not go In for this profeSSion as there IS no may be te~med as traditional or hereditary take-off of this profeSSion With the spread of while In the case of 7 households It IS non­ education as well as other social measures hereditary /non-tradltlonal Of 53 households, taken by the government all the selected 44 were engaged In the craft for the last 3 households were of the view that they are not generations or more, 3 households since one being differentiated In the Village due to the generation and 2 households since two profeSSion being practised by them In fact, generations and 4 households were unaware the Clientage of the craftsmen covers all sects about the penod of their association With the of the people In the rural areas craft There are 26 households which have reported their satisfactIon With the occupation Interest in the craft of the craft whereas 34 households had Table 58 gives the classification of shown dis-satisfaction CHAPTER VII Conclusion

Weaving craft IS practised all over the Wages· Weavers receive wages both In cash Pradesh There IS not much concentration of and kind Only a very small number of weavers except In few pockets of Kullu area weavers who work for the cooperative along the National Highway No 21 and a few societies or who live In and around the towns other places which are nearer to the tOUrist get money for their work Government resorts The spinning and weaving of servants, other outsiders and persons not pashmina IS mostly concentrated In Nurpur haVing surplus grains liVing In Villages also pay area of Kangra district and In Kullu district The In cash to the weavers for their work BeSides, spinning and weaving of cotton IS mostly the government agencies like Khadl and scattered in the lower areas of the State Village Industries Board and Handicraft and particularly Una, Dera Goplpur tahSil of Kangra H~ndloom Corporation also pay wages In district and other low lYing areas of the cash The practice of paying wages In kind by Pradesh The shawl Industry IS mainly bartering the grains of wheat, maize or some concentrated In Kullu dlstnct where beSides other corn IS gradually declining the individual weavers, cooperative societies have also been organised by the local Normally, the weaver has to spend atleast 4 weavers. On the whole, the weaving Industry days for completing a piece of woollen pattoo IS one of the most unorganlsed sector of the or a cotton "khes" Single handed For weaving economy and generally caters to the a chaddar roughly 3 days labour IS reqUired requirement of the local people On an Invariably, the weaver IS assisteei by his Wife or average, a weaver spends 4-6 hours dally In children as weaving mvolves many processes hiS workshop From the field enquiry as well which are slow and time consummg The time as observations made dunng survey, It has spent in weaving a shawl depends upon the been found that the weavers engaged In the deSign as well the colour combination About craft are neither haVing full time work nor they 5-7 metres of Khaddar can be wooven In a are earning suffiCiently to ensure a better day There are not many weavers In the state standard of living for their families No doubt, who are engaged In the weaving of DUffls who the amount of earnings depend upon the are mostly concentrated in the lower areas of variety of work the weaver receives from hiS the state Kharcha and Thobi makers are customers. It has also been observed In the mostly found In the tnbal belts of Lahul & SPltl, field that most of the weavers are able to Klnnaur and Pangl areas of the state where supplement their meagre Income either by the suffiCient amount of goat hair are available agncultural produce from their cultivable land The weaving of Silk IS almost negligible In the or by working as agricultural labourers, Pradesh and whatever activities are gOing on, particularly when there IS a season for sowing, all these are either government sponsored or ploughing, weeding and harvestmg. DUring aided the peak agricultural operations, the work on looms is invariably stopped. This IS due to the As already mentioned above, whatever may reason that the other Villagers who provide be the income of a weaver, it IS their common work to the weavers also get busy In their grouse that they get little in the form of wages. fields and so there IS less pressure of work for As a matter of fact, it IS not only a weaver's the weavers grouse, but, the grouse of everyone In the 81

present times In spite of hike In various raw matenal within the state as far as possible charges, the weaver IS stili not pulling on well As a part of the development programmes, in these hard days There are many problems steps have been taken by the Animal which a weaver IS faCing In the competitive Husbandry Department of the State days and are briefly discussed herem after Government to increase the Yield of the wool The problems may be categorised as under - from the local sheep by Introducing Improved breeds ThiS has been made (I) Raw matenal possible With the establishment of sr'Jep (II) Marketing breeding and research farms where the work (III) Finances of cross-breeding was undertaken on a large (IV) Training scale With the help of Imported manno, rambouillet, and ewes etc The department IS Raw Material: Himachal Pradesh being a also taking steps to Introduce better varieties hilly state was havl~g sizeable area of of fodder and grass The department IS also pastures which facIlitated the reanng of sheep contemplating to establish a corporation for and goats There was a time when good procurement and dlstnbutlon of wool 10 the number of people were haVing their main Pradesh occupation as sheep reanng which also enabled the local people to have wool for their Till recent past, there was no yarn mill In the domestic requirement either from their own Pradesh The controlled woollen yarn was flock or from the local people as the economy being procured by the state agencies but It was mostly land locked With the explosion in was not meeting the full requirement With the pOPu,lat!on as well as starting of the lifting of control of the yarn, the cooperative development era especially the programme of SOCieties and the local weavers are either road transport, the number of people were purchasing th~ yarn from local traders or attracted to other occupations resulting Into from the markets of Ludhlana and Amntsar In diverSification of the occupation Besides, due Punjab which was mostly governed by the to huge Investment made under the plans In size of the unit Now With the setting up of few the tnbal areas, the people have fOund yarn mills Ie Sldhartha Yarn Mill near lucrative avenues of employment In other Nalagarh, Dev Bhuml In Kullu dlstnct etc It IS spheres of the economic activities with the hoped that the Improvement In production of result that the educated and well to do families yarn Will definitely add to the productiVity of have given up the reanng of sneep and goats the weavers as an economIC pursuIt With the Increased emphasis on agricultural and horticultural Marketing: As already discussed, weavers activities coupled with pressure on land, the In the Pradesh represent as one of the most availability of pastures and grazing grounds unorganlsed sector of the economy and are has considerably decreased Due to these scattered throughout length and breadth factors, the Pradesh which at one time was of the State Most of the weavers are working not only self suffiCient In wool, but was also on part time baSIS and cater to the local sending the woollen cloth to the adjOIning requirement due to non-availability of ready states of Punjab and Haryana, had to suffer market No doubt, the government aided due to the shortage of raw matenal No doubt, agencies like Khadl and Village Industries the government IS alive to the Situation not Board, Handicraft and Handloom Corporation, only In providing employment to the weavers Textile Corporation and Bhuttl Weavers but also In meeting the ever increasing Cooperative Society have set up their sales demand for woollen cloth of the hili people outlets, but, there IS stili much to be achieved and have taken steps to make available the In thiS respect It has also been found that 82 most of the sales are affected dUring the clients. All these Inferences Imply that the period when various rebates/discounts are weaver should be well acquainted and trained allowed In order to faCilitate the marketing of In hiS Job. ThiS can be possible only when the weavers' products, It IS suggested that proper training faCilities are made available at vigorous programme has to be launched even convenient places. No doubt, the government by InvolVing the local traders as well as other as well as ItS various agencies have started government functionaries so that the weavers the training centres, but all these measures may not be handicapped due to non­ have not brought a Significant change in the quality weaving The weaver of Himachal marketing of their products It IS suggested Pradesh IS stili far behind of hiS counterpart In that show rooms/retail outlets which mainly other states both In respect of quality of deal with the products of their associates should also encourage the local weavers to products which he produces as well as the eamlngs ThiS defiCiency can be overcome organise themselves in the cooperative partly by enlarging the scope of the training as society. DUring the year 1986-87 the Khadl well as by providing various Incentives and Village Industries Board sold khadl cloth worth Rs. 53 29 lacs and the Handicraft & to the trainees BeSides, the various training Handloom Corporation sold goods of Rs programmes do not give due welghtage to the 125.00 lacs The government should also follow up programme of the training. As a extend patronage In purchaSing the weavers' result, In some cases, the training imparted cloth for uniforms of their employees Like big goes waste as the person concerned gets cities, the weavers' societies can also be himself fixed up In some other occupation. encouraged to go In for ready made garments ThiS hurdle can be overcome to some extent if In small towns and rural areas as their deSirous persons are imparted refresher products can be sold easily due to enormous courses In various textile technology and it hike In tailoring charges can also be supplemented by giVing programmes on 'Door Darshan' Finances: Most of the weavers are facing financial difficulties No doubt, the It has also been observed dUring ,ne field government has made arrangements for making available the finances to this weaker enquiry that most of the surveyed hou, eholds have not opted for Induction of their Wt rds in section of the society on concesslonal rates the craft on the baSIS of whatever has ~een but most of the weavers have not availed this discussed In the report and Inspite of va. 'ous faCIlity due to one reason or the other The shortcomings, the spinning and weaving craft main obstacle in availing this faCility IS In the State has bright future, as It has got lot Ignorance on the part of the weavers about of employment opportunities since almost the procedure to be followed as well as every rural family has some land to cultivate social stigma attached for taking a loan ThiS The weaving profeSSion also proVides work can be overcome by educating the weavers as well as encouraging them to form their both for whole time and part time workers at the door of the household The only thing associations/societies which IS reqUired to be done is to organise the Training: Invariably like other crafts, the craft on more sCientific lines and also to profession passes from generation to provide various faCilities to the craftsmen so generation and weaving is no exception to It that they may find the profeSSIOn remunerative The fashion w1th regard to the weaving of cloth and lucrative The main obstacle In the IS undergoing changes so rapidly that It development of the craft in the Stat~ IS that it becomes Imperative on the part of the IS spread over the length and breadth of the producers to move alongwlth the time and state and It IS very difficult to concentrate the also to meet the changed needs of their same at convenient central place Stili, the 83

craft can be rejuvenated by making available Regarding the use of various Implements the yarn and raw matenal at convenient places and tools, It has been observed that majority as well as by providing fmances to the artisans of the weavers In the state are stili working on at concesslonal rates Pit looms and there has not been any change therein, though, technology has advanced The government IS alive to the problems of mantfold. The weavers should, therefore, be the craftmen and IS making every effort to pursuaded to replace the obsolete pltiooms. bnng thiS craft on more healthy lines of The cooperative societies should be growth. The vanous agenCies set up by the encouraged to Install power-looms so that government like Khadl and Village Industries their products may compete with the shawls Board, Handicraft and Handloom Corporation and chaddars manufactured In the mills at are domg their best In encouraging the Ludhlana and Amntsar. With regard to the production and by enabling the weavers to finishing of the products, no doubt, the Khadl dispose off their products at remuneratIVe and Village Industries Board has Its fintshlng prices Besides, these agencies have also set plants at Mandl and the Handicraft and up tralnlng-cum-productlon centres at different Handloom Corporation has its plant at places in the State and have also given Sundernagar, but, majonty of the weavers are stipends for the trainees The follow up handicapped In gIVIng a proper finish to their programmes for deployment of the trained products with the result that they are In a persons stJII reqUires to be accelerated with disadvantageous position In the open market greater zeal The sales outlets of these Sufficient number of finishing plants should, agencies are also dOing good job In therefore, be Installed at SUit 01e places In populanslng the local products but their the State patronage IS confined to those weavers who are registered with them. In other to boost-up At present, there is hardly any work on the the sale and economy, vigorous efforts are marketing and research programme which is required to be made by Involving the private a big hinderance In projecting the demand traders and shopkeepers In addition to the and deslgntng of vanous patterns. As already cooperative societies, panchayats and fair stated the weavers form the most unorganlsed price shops. sector of the economy, hence, marketing and research work can be well looked-after by the It has also been observed that In the State government agencies and the data can be as a whole, there are not much weavers made available through easier cooperative societies The organisation of the means/methods to the concerned weaver. cooperative societies can bring the weavers in a better position both In respect of production The problem of middle man is not so acute as well as marketing of the products. These In Himachal Pradesh where the density of societies can also orgamse training courses population IS not much and there can be a (or different types of trades direct link between the producer and the consumer In urban areas out of 47 towns of The rabbit wool locally known as "angora" the Pradesh, as per 1981 Census, only one wool has got vast potentialities for ItS town IS haVing population of more than development In the state due to favourable 50,000, two are having more than 20,000, 5 climatiC conditions. Vigorous steps are towns are in the range of 10,000-19,999, 9 needed to be taken to populanse the setting towns fall In 5,000-9999 and the remaining up of angora farms. The angora wool IS not 30 towns having population of less than only attractive In look but IS also very soft and 10,000 persons Similarly, 92 percent of the warm total Villages are haVing population of less 84 than 2,000 persons In Himachal Pradesh the confined to weaving of shawls and the knitting question IS, therefore, more of producing the of 'Poolas' I e straw shoes at few places The things rather than selling the same. whole-sale market IS already functiOning at Snnagar whereas In Himachal Pradesh there The position of craft obtaining in the IS no such market The diversification of adjoining states: In Jammu & Kashmir which industry has ItS own advantages like utilisation has also hilly terrain and IS the neighbouring of waste material as well as providing state of Himachal Pradesh the craft has been alternative work to the artisans In Jammu & studied cursonly The weaving activities In Kashmir State, there are already established Jammu & Kashmir are extensively spread over wholesale markets and dealers for the supply and are more developed as compared to of raw matenal as well as for the sale and Himachal Pradesh There are several reasons purchase of the finished products Most of the which can be assigned for thiS situation artisans of Jammu & Kashmir work for Jammu & Kashmir area IS comparatively wages which are paid In cash or the artisans better placed In respect of availability of raw make good of their own account while In matenal due to more reanng of flocks of Himachal Pradesh most of the artisans get sheep and the setting up of spinning mills at their wages In kind and work for their Snnagar and other places In the valley area, customers only The Government of Jammu & approach to the marketing centre IS easier Kashmir IS plaYing an active role and has and qUicker as compared to Himachal established ruffle and tweed manufactUring Pradesh In addition, the marketing of raw Units and IS also Involved In the procurement matenal and finished products are mostly of wool through the Sheep Products concentrated In and around Srlnagar which IS Development Board and the disposal of the the hub of tourism and business activities In finished products through the Handicraft the valley area of Kashmir, the art of weaving, Corporation, a Unit of the State Government embrOidery and spinning IS being followed Dunng the field enquiry It was also observed meticulously not only to utilize the spare time that the Handicraft Corporation has also of the artisans dunng the winter months but It undertaken the sale of ready-made coats also serves as a big source of Income to the pants, Pherans which are tailored through family whereas In Himachal Pradesh the craft their own agencies It has also been observed IS confined only to a few families which do that there IS good demand for Kashmir! shawls not find suitable Job opportunities In other throughout the country "Kanl shawls" which vocations. Jammu & Kashmir IS on the world reqUire lot of labour have good demand map of tounsm and purchase of local even in the foreign countries as stated by Shri products remains the craze of the tOUrists Gulam Mohammad, Ex-M LA. and now whereas In the case of Himachal Pradesh, Manager of Kanl Shawl Project, Kani Hama tourism is stili In adolescent stage If not In The Handicraft Corporation IS also getting infancy In Jammu & t

The weavers of Haryana have an edge over have already taken a challenge espeCially With their counterparts In Himachal Pradesh In regard to the weaving of Silk and cotton respect of the following facilities'- Sarees and also in the manufacturing of carpets. The carpets of Mlrzapur and (I) Due to topography and developed Shahjahanpur are not only In demand In the means of transport, they are better country, but, are also being exported in a big placed In regard to procurement of raw way material and disposal of products. In Haryana, there are also well In the adjOining state of Punjab, the established markets like Panipat, weaving Industry has not flourished much due Ambala etc., where the textiles are to the reasons that the state being one of the being transacted In sufficient quantity richest state of the country, the people are whereas in Himachal Pradesh due to prefenng the mill made cloth which IS much low denSity of population there is no more attractive. Secondly, due to the green ready market available locally revolution, there IS shortage of labour-force espeCially dunng the sowing and harvesting (ii) The weavers of Haryana are better seasons and the weaving being low earning established In their trades because Industry prOVides no attraction to the people majority of them are carrying on the to remain In the Job Most of the traditional craft as their way of life on wholetlme weavers have either left Punjab due to the baSIS whereas in Himachal Pradesh partition of the country In 1947 or switched most of the weavers are In the craft Just over to various other occupations. Stili, the to supplement their income government and Its agencies are providing various Incentives to the available weavers in The craft of weaving is also well established the state to a great extent In the adjOIning state of Uttar Pradesh where good number of weavers are Sy havmg a comparative study of the working on hand looms and powerlooms. The weavers In the adjOining states of Himachal weavers of this state have diversified their Pradesh, it may be concluded that the production ranging from weaving of weavers of Himachal Pradesh are suffenng handkerchief, towels to dress matenal and fine from the ranges of products as compared to work of Sanarsi Sarees which are known not the weavers of other states In Himachal only in the country, but, are also being Pradesh, the weavers are mostly engaged In exported to other countnes No doubt, the the weaving of shawls, pattoos and patt/s craft requires boosting from the government which are more durable whereas In other and other agencies, but, it IS well established states the weavers have Wider chOices of their in the state and IS catering to the reqUirements products being used dally by the people It IS of poor and low income group people The suggested that in order to give a boost to the state being one ef the most populous state of weavers' economy of Himachal Pradesh, the the country prOVides good scope for the number of manufactured products should be development of craft for which the weavers increased. APPENDIX-I 88

Table Distribution of population

Age Never marned Marned Widowed Group p M F P M F P M F

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

0-4 42 26 16

5-9 52 29 23

10-14 39 23 16

15-19 43 19 24 6 6

20-24 8 7 23 8 15

25-29 2 2 29 15 14

30-34 20 12 8

35-44 23 10 13 2

45-54 21 11 10 4 4

55-69 20 13 7 8 7

70+ 3 2 4 3

Total 187 107 80 145 71 74 19 3 1b 89 classified by age, sex and marital status

Divorced or Total population separated

p M F P M F

11 12 13 14 15 16

42 26 16

52 29 23

39 23 16

50 19 31

31 15 16

31 17 14

21 12 9

27 13 14

25 11 14

28 14 14

7 3 4

2 353 182 171 90

\, Table Distribution of population classlfled

Educational level

Age Group Total populatIon illiterate LIterate (wIthout Primary or educational JUOlor BasIc level)

p M F M F M F M F

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

0-4 42 26 16 26 16

5-9 52 29 23 7 8 22 15

10-14 39 23 16 2 7 8 14 6

15-19 50 1') 31 7 2 3 8 12

20-24 31 15 16 2 12 4 3 3

25-34 52 29 23 2 11 6 2 9 10

35+ 87 41 46 21 41 7 5 5

Total 353 182 171 59 97 48 28 39 36 91

2 by age, sex and educational level

Educational level

Middle Matriculation or Higher Non-technical diploma Technical diploma or Graduate and above Secondary or Certificate not equal Certificate not equal to to degree degree

M F M F M F M F M F

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

2

3 6 5 3

3 2

7 5

6

21 6 13 3 2 92

Table 3 Dlstrlbutton of households classified by religion, caste/trlbe/commumty and mother tongue of head of the household hI

Religion Name of Number of households where another tongue of head of household IS Caste/Tnbe/Communlty ------Kulvi Kmnaun Kangn

2 3 4 5

HindUism Chamar 15

32

Budhlsm Klnnaura 13

Total 15 13 32

Table 4

Distribution of households classified by religion, caste/tribe/community, sex and educational level of head of the household

Religion Name of Number of households by sex illiterate Literate (without Casterrnbe/ of head of household educatIOnal level) Community

M F M F M F

2 3 4 5 6 7 8

HindUism Chamar 14 9

Kablrpantht 27 5 10 3 3

Budhlsm Ktnnaura 13 7 2

Total 54 6 18 3 14

Eduoatlonallevel

Pnmary Matnculatlon or Non-technical Technical diploma or Graduate and above Hr Secondary diploma or certificate certificate not equal not equal to degree to degree

M F M F M F M F M F M F

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

3

4 2 8

4

11 3 9 93

Table 5 Distribution of households classified by age and sex of head of the household and number of members

~eof Number of Number of households having members head of households the by sex of household head of the household Smgle 2 3 4 5 6-7 8·9 10·12 13 & above

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Below 20 Male

Female

20-29 Male 3 2 4

Female

Male 4 8 4

Female T

40-49 Male 3

Female

50-59 Male :) 3 2

Female

60 and Male 3 3 above

Female -1

Total Male 4 8 17 14 5 3 2

Female 2 2

Grand 5 10 17 16 6 3 2 Total 94

Table 6 Distribution of households classified by nature of relation of members to head of the household and number of members

Number of relation of members to head of household Number of households Number of memberS

2 3

Self, spouse 2

2 Self, spouse, unmarned sons and daughters 28 141

3 Self, spouse, married son and son's wife with or without marned 11 88 sons and daughters

4 Self, spouse, married Brother, Brother's wife with or without 9 unmarned sons and daughters and widowed mother

5 Self, spouse with or without unmarned son/daughter and 7 41 widowed mother

6 Self (Female), unmarned sons and widowed mother 4

7 Self (Female), unmarned son/daughter and widowed mother of 3 husband

B Self (Female) tw.Q_mamed son with thel( spouse and one 6 unmamed son's daughter

9 Self (Female) sons's wife and son's son 4

10 Self (Widower) with married son, son's Wife with or without 4 son/daughter

11 Self, spouse, unmarried children, Widowed sister and her 6 unmarned children

12 Self, spouse, with or without married sons/daughters, unmarried 2 18 brother and Widowed mother

13 Self (Widower) with unmarned sons/daughiers 5

14 Self, spouse, son's Wife, son's son and son's daughter 2 14 / 15 Self, spouse, with or without unmarried son/daughter and 8 Widowed father

Total 60 353 95

Table 7 Distribution of households classified by migration status with reference to place of birth and reasons for migration In relation to the head of the household

Migration Status with reference to place of birth of head of Number of households Number of households which the household have migrated due to marriage

2 3

A Non-Migrant (Born In the Village) 55

B Migrant (I + II) 5 5

Born outside the Village but In the same tahSil (Rural) 4 4

II Born outside the district but Within the State (Rural)

Total (A + B) 60 5

Table 8 Dlstnbutlon of households classified by migration status and duration of stay In the Village With reference to head of the household

Migration Status With reference Number of Number of households where duration of stay In the Village of head of to place of birth of head of the households the household IS household

Non-migrant

Less than 1 1-5 years 6-10 years 11-20 years 20 + years year

2 3 4 5 6 7 8

A. Non-Migrant 55 55

B Migrant (I + II) 5 5

Born outside the 4 4 Village but In the same district. Born outside the dlstnct but In the same State

Total (A+B) 60 55 5 96

Table 9 Distribution of households classified by traditional occupation, religion and caste/tribe/community of head of the household

Name of Name of Number of Number of households where traditional occupation of head of religion Caste/Tnbe/Communlty households the household IS

Weaving Agricultural Shoe making labourer

2 3 4 5 6

HindUism Chamar 15 8 6

Kablrpanthl 32 32

Budhlsm Kmnaura 13 13

Total 60 53 6

Table 10 Distribution of households classified by number of workers and by main occupational diversity

DISCriptlon of occupati'C5n diversity Number of households Number of workers

2 3

No Occupational DiverSity 22 43

Weaver, Cultivator-Road Labourer 5

Road Labourer -Weaver -Cultivator 2 8

Weaver-Cultivator 3 7

Weaver-DomestiC Servant 2

Weaver-Motor cycle Mechanic-Sales Man 4

Weaver-FrUit packer 4

Labourer (N E C), weavers, cultly'ator 3

Messon-weaver -peon 3

Mason-weaver 3 8

School Teacher (HM)-weaver 2

Agricultural Labourer-weaver 7 18

Labourer (dally pald)-weaver 2

Weaver-Labourer (N E C ) Cultivator 4

Village chowkldar, labourer_(dally pald)-weaver 4

Road Labourer-weaver 5 10

Weaver-Road labo~r 3 7

CultIVator -weaver-Salesman-weaver 4

Weaver-Secretary Panchayat-Road Labourer 4

Road Labourer weaver-Labour (dally paid) 6

Labourer (N E C)-weaver 2 4

Total - 60 152 97

Table 11 Households classified by sex, broad age group and subsidiary occupation In relatron to head of the household

Age- Sex Number of Number of Group households households having no subsidiary Number of households having subsidiary occupation occupation

Cultivation Genej:81 Weaving labourer

2 3 4 5 6 7

0-14 M

F

15-34 M 19 7 9 3

F

35-59 M 26 7 15 3

F 4 3

60+ M 9 6 3

F

Total M 54 20 27 4 3

F 6 5

GranCl Total 60 21 32 4 3 98

Table' Distribution of workers and non-workers

Name of All Ages Caste/Tnbe/ Total population Community Worker Non-worker

p M F P M F P M F

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Chamar 72 40 32 36 17 19 36 23 13

Kablrpanthl 199 103 96 84 42 42 115 61 54

Klnnaura 82 39 43 32 21 11 50 18 32

Total 353 182 171 152 80 72 201 102 99 99

12 classIfied by sex, caste/tribe/community and broad age-group (Contd)

0-14 years 15-34 years

Worker Non-worker Worker

p M F P M F P M F

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

2 2 28 21 7 25 12 13

74 43 31 38 20 18

29 14 15 16 12 4

2 2 131 78 53 79 44 35 100

Table Distribution of workers and non-workers

Name of 35-59 years caste/tribe/ community

Non-worker Worker Non-worker

p M F P M F P M F

20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28

Chamar 5 2 3 8 5 3

Kablrpanthl 30 14 16 37 17 20 3 3

Ktnnaura 19- 3 16 14 7 7

Total 54 19 35 59 29 30 4 3 101

12 tlasslfled by sex, caste/tribe/community and broad age-group (Concld )

60+ Years

Worker Non-worker

p M F P M F 29 30 31 32 33 34 3 3

9 5 4 8 4 4 2 2

12 7 5 12 4 8

103

Table 13 Distribution of workers and non-workers classified by sex and educational level

Number of

Educational Total population Worker Non-worker level

P M F P M F P M F

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 illiterate 155 59 96 69 21 48 86 38 48

Literate 77 48 29 21 17 4 56 31 25 (Without educational level)

Pnmaryor 75 39 36 36 18 18 39 21 18 Junior basIc

Middle 27 21 6 17 16 10 5 5

Matncu- 16 15 3 8 7 8 6 2 laMn or Higher secondary

Graduate 3 2 2 and tibov~

Total 353 182 171 152 80 72 201 102 99 104

Tabh~ Distribution of workers classified by traditional and present occupation,

Number of workers by age-group

Traditional Sex Total 0-14 years 15-34 years where occupation Number of workers Same as In If different Same In Weaver Road Cultivator Col 1 cultivation col 1 labourer

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Weaving M 73 15 7

F 62 25 5

Agricultural M 6 4 labourer

F 9 2 4

Shoe-maker M

F

Total M 80 15 5 7

F 72 2 25 5 6

Grand-Total 152 2 40 10 7 7 105

14 sex and broad age-group (Contd ) present occupation IS

Motor cycle Salesman FrUit packer Mason Peon Agricultural Dally Labourer Dally Panchayat mechanic laBourer wages (n e c) wages Secretary labourer In labourer In HPSEB Forest Corporation

10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19

2 3 2 3

2 3 2 3

2 3 2 3 106

Table Distribution of workers classified by traditional and present occupation,

35-59 years where present o~cupatlon IS

Same as In col 1 Cultivator Road labourer Domestic servant FrUit packer Agncultural Labourer (n e c ) labourer

20 21 ~2 23 24 25 26

9 6 4 2

24 2

2

9 8 4 2

24 2

33 3 9 5 2 107

14 sex and broad age-group (Concld )

60+ years where present occupatIon IS

Mason Head master Same as In col 1 Agncultural Village chowkldar Road labourer CultIvator labourer

27 28 29 30 31 32 33

3 2

4

3 3 2

4

3 7 2 108

Table 15 Distribution of workers by present occupation, type of occupation and other occupation followed In case the presen~ occupation IS seasonal

Present Number of Number otmembers reported Number of members reported Occupation members occupation noted In col 1 as occupation In col 1 as seasonal and followed other occupation

Seasonal Perennial General labour Cultivation

2 3 4 5 6

Weaving 90 89

2 Cultivation 13 13

3 Road Labourer 17 16

4 Domestic Servant

5 Motor cycle mechaniC

6 Salesman 2 2

7 FrUit packer 2 2 2

8 Mason 6 6

9 Peon

10 Agricultural 9 9 Labourer

11 Dally wages worker In Electricity Board

12 Labourers 4 4

13, School Head Master

14 Village Chowklda:t

15 Dally wages worker In Forest Department;

16 -Secretary Panchayat

17 Qally wages worker In Water Supply

Total 152 4 148 2 2 109

Table 16

Distribution of worker. classified by sex, broad age group, main activity and subsidiary occupation

Age Sex Total Number Number of workers whose main occupatlonJs group number of Weaving General Labour Cultivation Domestic of workers Servant workers having sub- Cultivator General Spinning Weaving Cultivator Weaving Agncul- Cultivator sldlary labourer tural work labourer 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

0-14 M F 2 15-34 M 44 23 7 3 F 35 17 15 35-59 M 29 22 5 2 2 F 30 14 12 60+ M 7 3 F 5 4 4 3 Total M 80 48 13 4 2 F 72 35 31 1 1 G Total 152 83 44 5 3 3

Fruit Mason Peon Dally Head Village Agncul- Road Sales Secra. Dally Packer wages Master chow- tural labourer man In tary wages workers kldar labourer co-opera· Panchayat worker In In HPS- tlve water EB supply deptt. General Cultivator Cultivator Cultivator Cultivator Cultivator .Cultlvator Weavang Cultivator Cultivator Cultlvator- Cultivator 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 "

3

3 3 3

2 6 3 5

2 6 3 5 1_ 110

Table Distribution of non-workers by

Age Grnuo Total number of non-workers Number of non-workers

p M F Infant Full time student

M F M F

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 0-14 131 78 53 15 3 47 31

15-19 38 15 23 14 12

20-24 11 4 7

25-29 4 4 30-39 40-49 50-59 5 5

60+ 10 4 6

Total 201 102 99 15 3 62 44 111

17 sex, age and type of activity

by type of activity and sex

Household duty Seeking employment Dependent Retired

M F M F F M F

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

2 16 17

9 2

6 2

4

3 2

3 3 3

28 3 21 24

113

Table 18 Distribution of households and persons engaged In the craft as related to place of work

Place of work of the head of the household Number of households where place of Place of work of persons work of head of the household where the head of the household IS (as noted In col 1) not engaged In the craft

2 3

Part of the dwelling house 31 (55) 28(33)

Workshop 1 (2)

Total 32(57) 28(33) 114

Table Households classified by broad age-group, place of work and duration

Place

Part of tt:~ dwelling house where

AgeGroup Duration of Number of heads of Number of persons other Number of head of Number of persons other work In the households engaged In than the head of households engaged In than head of the handicraft the handicraft households engaged In the craft household. engaged the handicraft

M F M F M F M F

2. 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

15-34 14 6 28 14 6 27

Less than 10 9 5 years

5-9 years 3 6 3 6

10-19 ~_ars 8 4 10 8 4 10

20+ years 2 2 2 2

35-59 9 4 21 8 4 21

Less than 5 years

5-9 years

10-19 years

20+ years 9 4 19 8 4 19

60+ 3 3 3 3

Less than 5 years

5-9 years

10-19 years

20+ years 3 3 3 3

Total 26 6 6 52 25 6 6 51 115

19 / of work in the handicraft in relation to head of the household and other members of work

Workshop

Owned by the households where Owned by other (Brother) where

Number of head of the Number of persons other than Number of head of the Number of persons other than households engaged head of the households households engaged head of the households engaged engaged

M F M F M F M F 11 1.2 13 14 15 16 17 18

:.

117

Table 20 Persons engaged In the craft classified by distance from house and mode of transport to reach the place of work

Distance from the house to the Number of persons engaged Place of work of persons engaged In the craft and mode of place of work In the craft transport

Part of dwelling house Workshop owned by the brother of head of the household (on foot)

2 3 4

Part of dwelling house 88 88

Less than 1 km 2 2

1-2kms

3-4 kms

5+ kms

Total 90 88 2 118

Table Place of work of persons engaged In the craft classified by

Occupied area of the

Less than 3 sq mts and number of persons working at the place of work (noted In col 1)

Place of work, Number of persons Single 2-5 6-10 11 + engaged In the craft

2 3 4 5 6

Part of the dwelling 88 4 4 house

Worl--shop (owned 2 by brotherof head of the household)

Training -cum- production centre

Any other

Total 90 4 4 119

21 area occupied and number of persons working therein (Contd) place of work

3·5 sq mts and number of persons working at the place of work 6-10 sq mts and number of persons working at the place of work (noted In col 1) (noted In col 1)

Single 2-5 5-10 11 + Single 2-5 6-10 11 +

7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

10 4 12 20

2

10 4 12 22 ;20

Table Place of work of persons engaged In the craft classified by

Occupied area of the

11-16 sq mts and number of persons working at the place of 17-24 sq mts and number of persons working at the place of work (noted In coil) work (noted In coil)

Smgle 2-5 6-10 11 + Slng~ 2-5 6-10 11 +

15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

6 15 3 10

6 15 3 10 121

21 area occupied and number of persons workmg the rem (Concld )

place of work

25 + sq mts and number of persons working at the place of work (floted In col 1)

Smgle 2-5' 6-10 11 +

23 24 25 26

---- 122

Table Place of work of persons engaged In the craft classlfled.,py'

Place of work Number of persons Occupied area of the engaged In the craft Less than 3 sq mts

Inadequate

Adequate Difficulty In making warp Lack ohndoor space/

lack of shed

2 3 4 5

Part of dwelling 88 3 3 2 house

Workshop 2

Total 90 3 3 2

Table Place of work of persons engaged In the craft classified by

Occupied area of the

11-l6 sq mls

Adequate Indequate Adequate

Paucity of '"900r space Paucity of space

14 15 16 17

4 16

4 16 123

22 area occupied and problem relating to the place of work (Contd )

Place .of work 3·5 sq mts 6·10 sq mts

Adequate Inadequate Adequate In adequate

Handloom IS Handloom IS difficulty In paucity of shortage of more space In a common In to the open making wap Indoor space under verandha verandha of space/lack of tanamachlne the household shed

6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

13 11 2 2 10 5 2

2

13 13 2 2 10 5 2

22 area occupied and problem relatmg to the place of work (Concld.)

place of work

17-24 sq mts 25 + sq mts Number of persons reported having the other problem relating to the place or work

Inadequate Adequate Inadequate

Paucity of space Paucity of Indoor space Work IS not possible In abnormal.wheather as the-Khaddl are 1I1stalied outside the space

18 19 20 21 22

10 3 13

10 3 13 124

Table Households owning place of work classified by

Place of work owned by Number of households Number of householdsrhalllri~ the household oWning place of work as noted In col 1 2 ------.------Less than 3 sq mts and number of persons engaged therein

Sangle 2-5 6+

2 3 4 5

Part of dwelling house 59 4 2

Workshop

Total 60 4 2

Table Households owning place of work cla.slfled by

Number of households having

6-10 sq mts and number of persons engaged therein 11-16 sq mts and number of persons engaged therelrl

Single 2-5 6+ Single 2-5 6+

9 10 11 12 13 14

12 10 6 7

12 11 6 7 125

23 are. occupied and number of persons working therem (Contd )

occupied area

3-5 sq mts and number of persons engaged therein

Single 2-5 6+

6 7 8

10 2

10 2

23 Ire. occupied and number of persons working therein (Concld.)

occupied area

17-24 sq mts and number of persons engaged therein 25 + sq mts and number of persons engaged therein

Single 2-5 6+ 81ngle 2-5 6+

15 16 17 18 19 20

3 3

3 3 126

Table

Distribution of persons classified by relationship with the headl

Number of per~ons

Self (Head of household) who performed Wife who performed Penod engaged Number of Warping and Spinning and Warping and Weaving of Spinning and In the craft persons weaving weaving weaving bordering weaving engaged In the craft

2 3 4 5 6 7 Less than 5 years 12 5 5-9 years 11 2 3 2

10-19 years 24 9 7

20+ years 43 19 20 Total 90 31 35 3

24 period engaged in the craft and nature of work performed

/ engaged In the craft who are related to head as

Son who performed Daughter who performed Mother who performed Sons wife who performed Husband's Mother who performed Warping and weaving Warping and weaving Warping and weaving Warping and weaving Warping and weaving

8 9 10 11 12 3

-1

4 3 --- 2 6 6 5 127

Tible Distribution of p'f)rsons classified by relationship with the head,

Number of persons engaged In the

Self (head of the household) who received training from

PeTlod engaged Number of Industrial training Brother Wife Private Parents In the craft persons centre Dhalpur Manufacturer engaged In the Kullu craft

2 3 4 5 6 7

Less than 5 years 12

5-9 years 11

10-19 years 24 6

20+ years 43 2 6

Total 90 9 2 7

25 the person Imparted traming and the period engaged m the craft

craft who are related to head as , Wife wh6 recelve1:l tramlng from

Father Mother Mother-in-law Instructor handicraft Husband Pnvate manufacturer corp

8 9 10 11 12 13

3

4

2

4 2 2 2

6 2 2 2 8

129

Table Dlstnbutlon of persons classified by relationship with the head,

Wife whc received training from

Parents Mother Instructor Instructor Handicraft Mother-In-law Father khadlboard corp

14 15 16 17 18 19

2

2 2

3 12 2 2

6 14 3 3 - 1 3

25 the person Imparted training and the penod engaged In the craft

Son who received DaughtN who received Mother who received Son's wife who received Husband's mother who training from training from training training from received training from

Father Instructor Parents Parents Mother Instructor Parents Mother Mother-In-law Mother Training centre Dhalpur (Kullu)

20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

3

2 2 2 2

3 2 2 3 4 130 \

Table Dlstnbutlon of persons engaged In the craft classified by

Number of persons engaged In the

Warping and weaving Where the relation noted at

Relationship Number of Husband Industrial Brother Wife Private Father with the head persons training centre manufacturer engaged In (Kullu) the craft

2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Self 32- 8 2 6

Wife 39 4 3

Son 6 3

Daughter 6

Mother

Sons's wife 5

Husband's mother

Total 90 4 9 2 2 12 131

26 relationship with the head, nature of work performed and the person Imparted training

craft by nature of work performed

col 1 received) training from

Mother Parents Mother & Inspector Mother-In-law Instructor Weaving and spinning Border Instructor handicraft Khadlboard weav"lg Khadlboard corp

Where the relation (noted In Where the col 1) received training from relation (noted In col 1) received trall'llng from

Husband Industnal Husband training centre (Kullu)

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17

2 7 2

12 6 2 3 3 3

2

3 2

4

22 18 2 6 4 3 3 132

\ Table Distribution of persons engaged In the craft classified by

Relation­ Number of Number of persons engaged In the craft ship with persons the head engaged In the craft

Husband, Industrial Training Centre Brother Less than 6 6 months 1 + year Less than 6 6 months 1 + year Less than 6 6 months months to 1 year and paid months to 1 year and paid months and paid and paid and paid remuneration and paid and paid remuneratIOn and paid remuneration remunera- remunera- remunera- remunera- remunera- tion tlon tlon tlon tlon

No No No remunera- remunera- remunera- '''ttoD, tlon tlon

2 3' 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Self 32 9

Wife 39 7

Son 6

Daughter 6

Mother

Son 'a wife 5

Husband's mother

Total 90 7 10 133

27 relationship with ~ head' of the person Imparted tralnmg, penod of training remuneration (Contd )

who received training from

Wife Pnvate manufacturer Father Mother

1 + Less 6 1 + yrs less 6 , + yrs Less 6 6 1 + yr Less 6 , + yr years than 6 months & paid than 6 months and months months & paid than 6 months & paid and months to 1 urs remuners- months to 1 yr paid & paid to 1 yrs remunera- months to 1 yr remunera- paid and & paid tlon and & paid remune- remunera- & paid tlon & paid & paid tlon remunera~ paid remunera~ paid remunera- ration tlon remunera- remunera-remunera- bon remunera~ tlon remunera tton tlon tlon tlon tlOn tlon

No No No No No No remunera remunera- remune- remunera~ remune- remune- tlon tlon ratton bon ration ralton

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

2 - 6 2

3 12 3 3

4

2 12 22 134

Table Distribution of persons engaged In the Craft classified by

Number ot persons engaged In the craft

Parents Mother & Instructor Khaddl Inspector Handicraft Corp Board

Less than 6 6 months to 1 1 + years and less than 6 6 months to 1 1 + year and Less than 6 6 months to 1 months and years and paid paid months and year and paid paid months and year and paid paid remuneration remuneration paid remuneration remuneration paid remueratlon remuneration remuneration remuneration

No No remuneration No remuneration remuneration

24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

7 2

6 2 3

2 2

18 2 6 135

27 relationship with the Head of the person Imparted training, period of training remuneration (Concld.) who received training from

Mother.ln.law Instructor Khadl Board

4 3 136 ...

Tabl. Distribution of persons engaged In the craft classified by

RelatlOn- Number Number of persons engaged In the craft ship with of the head persons engaged In the craft

Husband Brother Wife

Less than 6 months 1 + yr on Less than 6 months 1 + yr on Less than 6 months 1 +yrs on 6 months to 1 yr on 6 months to 1 yr on 6 months to 1 yr on condli on on on

No terms No terms No terms and No-terms an and and conditions conditions conditions

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Self 32 2

Wife 39 7

Son 6

Daughter 6

Mother

Son's Wife 5

Husband's Mother

Total 90 7" 2 137

28 relationship with the head. the person Imparted training. period of training and terms and conditions (Contd )

{ho received training from

Father Mother Parents Mother-in-law

Less 6 months 1 + yrs Less 6 months 1 + yrs Less 6 months 1 + yr on Less 6 months 1 + yrs than 6 t01yron on than 6 10 lyr on on than 6 to 1 yr on than 6 to 1 yr on on months months months months No terms No terms on on No terms and on on and and conditions conditions No terms and conditions conditions

12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

6 2 7 2

3 12 6

3 2

3 2

4

12 22 18 4 138

Table Distribution of persons engaged In the craft classified by

Number of persons engaged In the craft

Mother and Instructor Industrial Training Centre Private Manufacturer less than 6 6 months to 1 1 + years less than 6 6 months to 1 1 + years on Less than 6 6 months to 1 months on yrs on on months on yrson months on years on

Trainee should - No terms and No term~ and have a Khaddl conditions conditions •

24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31

9

2

2 10 139

28 with the head of the person Imparted training, period of training and terms and conditions (Concld )

who received training from

Inspector Handicraft corp Inspector Khadl Board

1 + years on less than 6 6 months to 1 yr 1 + years on Less than 6 6 months to 1 yrs 1 + years on months on on months on on

No terms and Trainee should Trainee should conditions have a Khaddl have a Khaddl

32 33 34 35 36 37 38

2

3 3

6 3

141

Table 29 Auessment of training received by the persons as related to the period engaged In the craft, availability of better training facility and intention to receIve better tr810109

Penod Number of Number who consider the Training received IS Number reporting Number In engaged In persons availability of better favour of the craft engaged In Adequate Inadequate recelvmg the craft better tralnmg

Better InsuffiCient Difficulty m Local Within the Tralnmg was penod of spanng time Craftsmen 1T0usehoid not available tralnmg at from the In the Govt household household Training activity to centre have better training

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Lass than 12 10 2 2 2 5yeara

5-9 years 11 9 2 3

10-19 years 24 23 '1

20+ years 43 41

Total 90 83 3 3 6 7 f42

Tabh Distribution of persons engaged In the craft classified by relationship with the head and source 0:

Relation with the Number of persons Number reported having head engaged In the craft Father to son Brother to brother Husband to wife Parents to son

2 3 4 5 6

Ilf 32 11 8 7 fe 39 9

>n 6 4 2 lughter 6 other

)n'swlfe 5

Jsband's mother

)tal 90 15 8 9 9 143

30 acquirement of skill (In case the skill Is passed on from father to son tratlltlonall~ acquired skill through

Father to Parents to Mother to Instructor Mother and Mother-in-law -to Inspector daughter daughter daughter Khadlboard to Instructor son's wife Handicraft to person Khadlboard to person person

7 8 9 10 11 12 13 2 2 2

3 6 12 3 2 3

2 3

4

3 9 22 3 2 4 6 144

Table 31 Distribution of households manufacturing handicraft Items for purpose as related to educational level of the head of the household

Educational level of the Name of handicraft Item Number of households Number reporting Remarks head of household manufactured manufactunng purpose for which the handicraft Items particular IS used

2 3 4 5

Shawl Used by female for wrappmg upper portion of the body especially m wlOter illiterate 9 9

Literate (without 9 9 educational level

Pnmary 7 7

Middle 5 5

Total 30 30

Chaddar Used by male for wrapping upper portion of the body espeCially In wlOter illiterate

Literate (without 4 4 educational level)

Pnmary 2 2

Middle

Total 8 8

Pattu Used by females for In Har and Lohara wrapping neck to ankle villages pattu IS used by part of the body 10 all males In winter season seasons In Banogland Ban villages

Illiterate 16 16

Literate (without 10 10 educational level)

Pnmary 11 11

Middle 6 6

Total 43 43

Mufflar Commonly IS used by the male around the neck In winter season

illiterate

Literate (without 3 3 educational level) 145 Table 31 (Concld.)

2 3 4 5

Pnmary 3

Middle

Total 7 7

Patti For making coats and caps illiterate

LIterate (without educational level)

Pnmary

Middle

Total 3 3

Border Adds a decoration to look to shawls, pattus and caps illiterate

Literate (without 5 5 educational level)

Pnmary 3 3

Middle -

Total 10 10

Khaddar Cloth For gifts In marriages and to making clothes for weanng illiterate 8 8

LIterate (without educational level)

Pnmary 3 3

Middle 2 -2

Matncualtate

Graduate & above .,

Total 16 16

Khes/Khesl illiterate 4 4

LIterate (without educatlonall~1)

Pnmary

Middle 2 2

Total 7 7 146

Table

Distribution of households manufacturing handicraft objects by number of Items manufactured In a month and seasonal

Educational Name of Number reporting number of Items manufacturing In a month level handicraft manufactured

Number of household manufacturing Less than 10 10-25 26-50 51-100 101 + - handicraft

2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Shawl

Illiterate 9 9

Literate 9 7 2 (without educational level)

Primary 7 6

Middle 5 3 2

Total 30 25 4

Chaddsr

illiterate

literate 4 4 (without educational \e'le\) 2 Primary 2 , Middle

Total { 8

Pattu

Illiterate 16 16

Literate 10 10 (WIthout educatIOnal level)

Primary 11 10

Middle 6 5

Total 43 41 2

Mufflar

Illiterate -3 2

Literate /(Without educational level) 147

32 variation In the production of the Item as related to educational level of the head of the hous,ehold

Number of households reported having seasonal vanatlon In the production Item

Number of the Households Summer s~ason Winter season March to June (tOUrist season) Sept to Nov (festival season)

9 10 11 12

3 3 6

3 3 6

2 2 5

4 4

12 12 18

3

3 3 5

8 8 8

3 7

3 8

5

19 24

-3-. 148 Table 32 (Contd )

2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Mufflar "

Pnmary 3 2

Middle

Total 7 4 3

Patti illiterate iJterate (Without educational level)

Pnmary

Middle

Total 3 3

Border illiterate

Uterate 5 3 2 (Without educational level)

Primary 3 2

Middle

Total 10 6 4

Khaddar

Illiterate 8 4 2 2 iJterate " (Without educational level)

Primary 3

Middle 2

Matriculation or Hr Sec

Graduate & above

Total 16

Khes/Khesl illiterate -.4 4 LIterate (Without educational level)

Primary

Middle 2 2 149 Table 32 (Concld.)

9 10 11 12

3

7

3

5

3

10

8 7

3

2 2

12 3 13

4 4

2 2 150

Table Average monthly consumption of raw matenal by seasons variations for manufacturang different

EducatJonallevel of the Name of handicraft Number of households Average monthly consumption head of household Items manufactured manufactunng handicraft Items

Ruffle Woollen yarn

2 3 4 5

Shawl 30 191 150

Illiterate 9 078 156

Literate (without 9 1 10 1 19 educational level)

Pnmary 7 492 222

Middle 5 120 090

Chaddar 8 018 076 illiterate

Literate (without 4 014 130 educational level)

Primary 2 025 025

Middle 040 040

Pattu 43 083 246

Illiterate 16 103 277

Literate (without 10 049 145 educational level)

Primary 11 128 281

Middle 6 006 267

-Mufflar 7- 251

Illiterate 3 233

Literate (without 050 educational level)

Primary 3 350

MIddle Patti- 3 192 Illiterate 125

Literate (without 200 educational level)

Primary 250

Middle 151

33 Hems of handicraft classified by educational level of the household

of each raw matenal Number reported having seasonal variatIOns In the comsumptlOn of raw matenal

Cashmllon Yarn Cotton Yarn Number of Ruffle, wool and households cashmllon IS In In Winter season 10 Summer season much demand dUring the month of March to June and Sept to Nov

6 7 8 9 10 11

078 30 18 12

222 9 6 3

022 9 6 3

028 7 5 2 - 5 4

050 8 5 3

200

4 3

100 2

016 43 24 19

031 16 8 8 ,.-/

006 10 7 3

012 11 8 3

6 5

022 7 7

045- 3 -3

006 3 3

3 3 152 Table

2 3 4 5 "

Border 10 1 19 033

illiterate 300

Literate (without 5 077 045 education level)

Pnmary 3 158 033

Middle 040 010

Khaddar 16

illiterate 8

Literate (without education level)

Primary 3

Middle 2 Matriculation or Hr Sec

Graduate & above- _,.

Khes/Khesl 7

IIlIgerate 4

Literate (without education level)

Primary

Middle 2 153· 33 (Concld)

6 7 8 9 10 11

054 10 10

300

5 5

083 3 3

3 634 16 13

556 8 7

800

600 :? 3

650 2 2

1000

800

287 7 7

240 4 4

300

375 2 2

155

Table 34 Raw matenals used for the manufacture of different Items of craft cl'asslfled by area from where procured by mode of transport and problem faced

Name of raw Number of Number of household~ which have Number of households reported matenals used Households procured raw matenal from having faced problems for for makmg the uSing the raw procunng raw matenal Handicrafts Items matenal Handloom Nearby local No problem Financial Regular supply Co-operative market problem to have of raw matenal Society KuliuNiliages the raw matenal IS not available Kullu/Khaddl (self) m reasonable by the Co-op Board (self) rates by the Govt Society

2 3 4 5 6 7

Ruffle 26 4 22 9 13 4

Wool 49 8 41 11 34 4

Cashmllon 14 14 13

Cotton Yarn 23 8 15 23

Total 11.1 20 92 21 83 8 1.56

Table Tools and equipment used In the manufacture of handicraft Items and new techniques and tools

Educational level of Name of the Number of Numbelof households the head of the handicraft Items households household manufactured manufacturing handicraft Items Flighted shuttle loom Warpmg machme Small loom

2 3 4 5 6

Shawl 30 20 8 illiterate 9 4 2

Literate (without 9 7 3 education level)

Primary 7 4 2

Middle 5 5

Chaddar 8 7 4 illiterate

LIterate (without 4 4 2 educational level)

Pnmary 2 2

Middle

Pattu 43 22 10 illiterate 16 5 2

Literate (without 10 7 4 educational level)

Pnmary 11 6 3

Middle 6 4

Muffler 7 4 2 illiterate 3 2 2

Literate (without educational level)

Pnmary - 3

Middle

Patti 3 3 3 illiterate

Literate (without educational level)

Pnmary

Middle

Border 10 10 illiterate _., 157

35 Ihtroduced classified by educational level of the head of the household

reported making use of Number of households reported having Introduced new techniques and tools

Pit loom Shuttle Babbm Small spinning Pair of scissors Flighted shuttle Warping machme (Babbln loom machine binder) (lnstalh!d by the Govt)

7 8 9 10 11 12 13

12 22 30 30 30 9

5 4 9 9 9

3 8 9 9 9 2

4 5 7 7 7 2

5 5 5 5 4 3 8 8 8 - 8 2

4 4 4 4

2 2 2 2

24 30- 43 43 43 9

12 9 16 16- 16 2 4 8 10 10 10 2

6 7 11 11 11 2

2 6 6 6 6 3-

3 2 7 7 7

3 3 3

2 3 3 3

3 3 3 3

9 10 10 10 158 Tabl.

2 3 4 5 6

LIterate (without -5 5 educational level)

Primary 3 3

Middle

Khaddar 16 illiterate 8

Literate (without educational level)

Primary 3

Middle 2

Matrlcualtlon or Hr Sec

Graduate & above

Khes/Khesl 7 2 illiterate 4

Literate (without educational level)

Primary

Middle 2 159 35 (Concld)

7 8 9 10 11 12 13

;. 5 5 &. "5

3 3 3 3

15 16 16 16 16

8 8 8 8 8

2 3 3 3 3

2 2 2 2 2

7 7 7 7 7 4

4 4 4 4 4

l

2 2 2 2 2 2 160

Table Design used an the manufacture of handicraft items classIfied by the person who prepared the design,

Educational level of the Name of the design "Numj;laof the NumbEl,r of households reporting design as head of the household (Floral, scenery, animal, households maKlng-use_ motif, huntmg scene etc of the design ..J.essJhan 10 years and 10·19 years and prepared by head of the prepared by head of the household household

2 3 4 5

Floral 32 2

illiterate 9

Literate (without 11 educational level)

Pnmary 9

Middle 3

Geometncal 22 3

Illiterate 7

Literate (without 7 educational level)

Pnmary 6

Middle 2

All over Doongn 6

Illiterate

Literate (without 3 educational level)

Pnmary 2

Middle

Kulvi tYPical 8

Illiterate

Literate (without 4 educational level)

Pnmary 3

Middle 1-

I

illiterate

Literate (without educational level)

Pnmary

Middle 161

36 his relationship with head of the household, penod when Introduced and educatJOnallevel traditional and IS 10 use slOce Number of households reporting design as non traditional and IS In use since

Less than 5-9 years and prepared by 10 + years and 5 years and prepared by 20 + years and prepared by prepared by head of the head of the household household

Head of the Wife Son Head of the Wife Son household household

6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

23 11 5 3

7 5

8 2 3 2

7 2

3

15 3 3

5

5 2

5

2

2 4

3

2

8

4

3 162

Table

2 3 ,4 5

Scenery

illiterate

Literate (without educational level)

Primary

Middle

Plam weaving 26 2

illiterate 12

uterate (without educational level)

Primary 7

-Middle 4

Matriculation or Hr Sec

Graduate & above 163

36 (Concld)

6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13

23

12

7

2 164

Table 37 Reasons for introducing new design classified by pe'lod and educational level of the head of the household

Educational Number of Name of Number of households Number of households reported having level of the households design used Introduced new design since head of the engaged In by the household the craft household

Continuing Introduced Less than 5-9 years due 10+ years due With the new designs 5 years due to to to traditional as noted In design as col 3 noted In col 3

Variety and Variety and Variety and attraction attraction attraction

2 3 4 5 6 7 8

32 Floral 27 22 6 7 8 illiterate 9 8 6 4

Literate 11 10 9 3 3 2 (WIthout educational level)

Pnmary 9 8 4 2

Middle 3 3

22 Geometrical 20 9 4 4 illiterate 7 7

Literate 7 7 4 3 (Without educational level)

Pnmary 6 6 2

Middle 2 2 2

6 Allover Doongn 2 6 5 illiterate

LltNate 3 3 3 (Without educational level)

Primary 2 2 2

Middle

8 Kulvi tYPiCal 8

Illiterate

Literate 4 4 (Without educational level) 165 Table 37 {Concld.} 2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Primary 3 1

Middle

Klnnaun

Uliterate

Uterate (Without educational level)

Primary

Middle ~ 166

Table Number of households manufacturing handicraft Items classified by quantity produced, purpose for which

Rehglon, Caste/Tnbe/ Name of Number of 25 plece-s or 26·50 pieces per annum Community of the head of the handicraft households less per annum household Items manufactunng manufactured the Items Religion CastefTnbe/ Entirely for the Entirely for the Entirely for use Entirely for use Community use of use of other of craftsman of other craftsman commumtles commumty for communities community for and sold sold agalOst agalOst domllstlcas

2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Hinduism

Chamar Shawl 10 . . 2 4

Chaddar 5 3 5

Pattu 1-1 5 6 2 4

Mufflar 2

Patti 2 2 2

Border 9

Kablrpanthl

Khaddar 16

Pattu 19 9 16

Shawl 12 10

Chaddar 3 3 / Khes/Khesl 7 7 7

Budhlsm KIOnaura

Shawl 8 6

Pattu 13 10 10

Mufflar 5 2

Patti

Border

Total 124 12 18 30 63 167

31 produced and by religion, caste/tribe/community of the' head of the household

51 + pieces per annum 200 Metres 201 Metres 501 + Metres

Entirely use for Entirely for use of other Entirely for use of '=ntlrely for use of other Entirely for use of craftsman community for commUnities and sold other communities and COml1lUnitles and sold other communities and against sold against against sold for

Domestic as weil as Cash Cash Cash Cash commercial

9 10 11 12 13

4

3 6

11 4

3

2 2

3

2 17 14 10 168

Table 39 Number of household. manufacturing handicraft Item. cla ••lfled by plac. of sal. of artlcl ••

Name of handicraft Items Number of households Number of households reported having sold the article at manufacturing the Items

Inside the Village directly Sold through Sold to shopkeepers or to consumer Co-operatlve Society Khadlboard

2 3 4 5

Shawl 30 22 6 2

Chaddar 8 7

Pattu 43 42

Mufflar 7 5

Patti 3 3

Border 10 9

Khaddar 16 10 6

Khes/Khesl 7 7

Total 124 97 7 20 169

Table 40 Households classified by quantity of finished products sold and channels through which It IS disposed off by proportion

Quantity sold by households In Number of household~ disposed off the finished broad ranges products through Name of finished Number of products households Broad ranges Number of Inside the Village Sold through Sold to produced manufacturing households directly to Co-op Society shopkeepers or the Items consumer Khadl board

2 3 4 5 6 7

Shawl 30 30 22 6 2

10 upto 25 pieces 10 9

13 26-50 pieces 13 10 3

7 51 + pieces 7 3 3

Chaddar 8 8 7

6 upto 25 pieces 6 5

26-50 pieces

51 + pieces

Pattu 43 43 42

18 upto 25 pieces 18 17

19 26-50 pieces 19 19

6 -51 + pieces 6 6

Mufflar 7 upto 25 pieces 7 5

3 26·50 pieces 3 2

4 51 + pieces 4 3

Patti 3 3 3

3 upto 25 pieces 3 3

Border 10 10 9

3 201-500 meters 3 3

7 501 + meters 7 6

Khaddar 16 16 10 6

upto 200 meters

11 201-500 meters 11 8 3

4 501 + meters 4 3

Khes/Khesl 7 7 7

4 upto 25 pieces 4 4 -,

3 26-50 pieces 3 ~ 3

51 + pieces

Total 124 124 97 7 20 170

Table 41 Terms and conditions and margin of profit related to sale of finished products through different channels classified by '\ educational level of the head of the household

Educational Number of Number of Number of households sale Items through level of the handicraft households head of the Items manufac- Inside the village directly to consumer at Weavers Sold to household tunng the margin of profit Coop shopkeeper/Khadl-board handicraft Society at at the margin of profit Items the margin of profit

Upto 10% 11% to 15% 16% to 25% Upto 15% Upto 15% 16%to 20%

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 illiterate 43 11 9 17 2 4

Shawl 9 2 4 2

Pattu 16 5 3 8

Mufflar 3 3

Patti

Border

Khes/Khesl 4 4

Chaddar

Khaddar 8 4 4

Literate 31 4 10 9 3 5 (WELl

Shawl 9 2 3 3

Khaddar

Pattu 10 4 5

Chaddar 4 3

Mufflar

Patti

Border 5 5

Primary 31 5 4 14 6 2

Shawl 7 4 2

Chad dar 2

Pattu 11 2 7

Mufflar 3 2

Patti

Border 3 2

Khaddar 3 3

Khes/Khesi 171

Table 41 (Concld.)

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

Middle 17 8 6

Shawl 5 2

Chaddar

Pattu 6 3 3

Khaddar 2 2

Border

Khes/Khesl 2 2

Matriculation or Hr Sec

Khaddar

Graduate & above

Khaddar 172

Table 42 Particular. offlmshed products sold locally/exported classified by educational level of the head of the household

Quantity sold In Number of broad ranges households Number of reported having sold Educational level of Name of handicraft households finished products the head of the Items manufactUring the household Items Broad ranges Number of Locally households

'1 2 3 4 5 6

Illiterate Shawl 9 9 9

2 uplo 25 pieces 2 2

5 26·50 pieces 5 5

2 51 + pieces 2 2

Pattu 16 16 16

6 uplo 25 pieces 6 6

7 26·50 pieces 7 7

3 51 + pieces 3 3

Mufflar 3 :3 3

2 26·50 pieces 2 2

51 + pieces

Patti

Uplo 25 pieces

Border

501 + mls

Khes/Khesl 4 4 4

3 uplo 25 pieces 3 3

26·50 pieces

Chaddar

J uplo 25 pieces

Khaddar 8 8 8

uplo 200 mls

5 201·500 mls 5 5

2 501 + mls 2 2

Total 43 43 43

Literate (W E.L) Shawl 9 9 9

2 upto 25 pleoes 2 2 173 Table 42 • contd

Number of households Number of reported having sold Educational level of Name of handicraft households finished products the head of the Items manufacturing the Quantity sold In household Items broad ranges

Broad ranges Number of Locally households

2 3 4 5 6

26-50 pieces 4 174

Table 42 - contd

Number of households Number of reported having sold Educational level of Name of handicraft households finished products the head of ihe Items manufacturing the Quantity sold In household Items broad ranges

Broad ranges Number of Locally households

2 3 4 5 6

Pattu 11 11 11

4 upto 25 pieces 4 4

5 26-50 pieces 5 5

2 51 + pieces 2 2

Mufflar 3 3 3

3 51 + pieces 3 3

Patti

upto 25 pieces

Border 3 3 3

r upto 501 mts

2 500+ mts 2 2

Khaddar 3 3 3

3 201-500 mts 3 3

Khes/Khesl

26-50 pieces

Total 31 31 3~ 5 IIddle Shawl 5 5

2 upto 25 pieces 2 2

26-50 pieces 2 2

51 + pieces

Chaddar

upto 25 pieces

Pattu 6 6

upto 25 pieces 3 3

26-50 pieces 3 3

Khaddar 2 2

20y500 mts I 175

Table 42 • contd 176

Table 43 Particulars of households which reported to have met the demands for finished products and those which have not met the demands with reasons thereof classified by educatlonallevel of the head of the household

Educational level of the head Name of handicraft Items Number of households Number of households of the household manufacturing the Items reported to have met the demand for finished products

Local demand to the extent

Allmost ful

2 3 4

Illiterate 43 43

Shawl 9 9

Pattu 16 16

Mufflar 3 3

Patti

Border

Khaddar 8 8

Khes/Khesl 4 4

Chaddar

Literate (without educational 31 31 level)

Shawl 9 9

Chaddar 4 4

Pattu 10 10 ./ Mufflar

Patti

Border 5 5

Khaddar

Pnmary 31 31

Shawl 7 7

Chaddar 2 2

Pattu 11 11

Mufflal 3 3

Patti -. , Border 3 3

Khaddar 3 3

Khes/Khesl 177

Table 43 (Concld )

2 3 4

Middle 17 17

Shawl 5 5

Chaddar

Pattu 6 6

Border

Khaddar 2 2

Khes/Khesl 2 2

Matriculation or Hr Sec

Khaddar

Graduate and above

Khaddar 178

Table 44 Details of households reported having faced problems to dispose off finished products classified by educational level of the head of the household

Educational level of Name of handicraft Number of Number of households reported having faced problems to the head of the Items households dispose off finished products due to household manufactunng the Items High pnce of raw Competition With Non-availability of matenal factory made raw matenal on products reasonable rates and competition With factory made products

2 3 4 5 6 illiterate 43 8 11 15

Shawl g 7 2

Pattu 16 7 5

Mufflar 3 3

Patti

Border

Khaddar 8 3

Khes/Khesl 4 4

Chaddar

Ute rate (without 31 3 16 2 educatlonallevel~

Shawl 9 7

Chaddar 4 3

Pattu 10 2

Mufflar

Patti

Border 5 5

Khaddar

Pnmary 31 4 13 5

Shawl 7 6

Chaddar 2

Pattu 11 4

Mufflar 3 3

Patti

Border 3 3

,Khaddar 3

Khes/Khesl / 179 Table 44 (Concld.)

2 3 4 5 6

Middle 17 2 6 4

Shawl 5 5

Chaddar

Pattu 6 2

Border

Khaddar 2

Khes/Khesl 2 2

Matriculation or Hr Sec

Khaddar

Graduate and above

Khaddar

181

Table 45 Dlstnbutlon of households reported about starting of the craft 10 the village classIfied by broad age-group of the head of the household

Broad Number of Number of households reported about the starting of the craft in the village age-group of households the head of engaged In After 1947 Between Between Between Before 1900 Penod not the household the craft 1946-1932 1931-1916 1915-1900' known

2 3 4 5 6 7 8

0-14

15-34 20 20

35-59 31 31

60+ 9 9

Total 60 60 182

Table" Nurhber of households reporting about the number of households and persons engaged

Broad Number Number of households reported about the number of households age-group of house- holds engaged Before 1940 1940-50 1951-60 In craft Less 5-9 10+ Less 5-9 10+ Less 5-9 10+ than 5 than 5 than 5

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

0-14

15-34 20 7 3 10 3 7 10 8 12

35-59 31 3 8 20 7 23 5 26

60+ 9 8 8 9

Total 60 10 12 38 4 15 41 13 47 183

46 In craft In the vIllage during dIfferent penod classIfIed by broad age-group of the head of the household engaged In the craft In the VIllage dunng the penod

1961-70 1971-80 At present

Less than 5 5-9 10+ Less than 5 5-9 10+ Less than 5 5-9 10+

t2 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

20 20 20

31 31 31

9 9 9

60 60 60 184

Table Number of households reportmg about the number of households and persons engaged

Broad Number of households reported about persons engaged In the craft age-group

Before 1940 1940-50 1951-60

Less than 10-19 20+ Less than 10-19 20+ Less than 10-19 20+ 10 10 10

21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29

0-14

15-34 10 5 5 10 5 5 7 7 6

35-59 9 10 12 7 12 1~ 4 13 14

60+ 4 4 4 4 4 5

Total 20 19 21 18 21 21 11 24 25 185

46 In craft in the village durln9 different period classified by broad age-group of the head of the household

In the village dunng the penod

1961-70 1971-80 At present

Less than 10 10-19 20+ Less th,\n 10 10-19 20+ Less than 10 10-19 20+

30 31 32 33 34 35 36 - 37 38

5 15 19 19

11 20 5 26 5 26

3 6 2 7 2 7

19 41 8 52 8 52 186

~WeU , Reasons reported by households for vanatlon In the number of households and persons engaged In the craft dunng last foul' decades classified by broad age-group of the head of the household

Number of households reported reasons for No substantial Increase 10 the Broad age-group Number of Increase In the number of households and persons engaged In the craft number of of the head of households dUring last four decades households and the household engaged In persons craft engaged 10 the craft dUring last four decades

Craft IS stili In Training received D,VIs,ons In the Less opportunity Educated demand from Industrial families In In other sector persons are not training school artisans Interested In the (Dhalpur) trade and very little demand of finished product,s

2 3 4 5 6 7

0-14

15-34 20 5 2 12

35-59 31 5 2 20 3

60+ 9 5 2

Total 60 11 4 37 3 5 187

Table 48 Households reported having associated with the craft classfled by religlon,caste/tnbe/communlty of the head of the household and method by which associated with the craft

Religion, Caste/Tnbe/Communlty of the Number of Households reported having associated with the craft through head of the household households engaged with craft Religion Caste/Tnbe/ Hereditary Encouraged by Training received Community brother who himself from Industnal was a craftsman training school (Ohalpur)

2 3 4 5 6

HindUism 47 45

Chamar 15 13

Kablrpanthl 32 32

Budhlsm 13 13

KlOnaura 13 13 188

Table 49 Households classified by period engaged In the craft with reference to craft started In the village

Penod of the Number of Number of households reported about starting of craft In the village since household households engaged In engaged In Less than 40 40-55 years 56-70 years 71-85 years 86+ years Penod not the craft the craft years known

2 3 4 5 6 7 8

Less than 3 3 5 years

5-9 years 7 7

10-19 years 14 14

20+ years 36 36

Penod not known

Total 60 60 189

Table 50 Reasons reported by the households disintegration of the craft classified by penod and religion, caste/tribe/community of the head of the household

Religion, Number of Number of households reported about the disintegration of the craft smce Caste/Trlbe/ households Community of engaged In craft the head of the household

Religion Caste/Tnbe/ Less than 5 years 5-9 years 10-19"years 20+ years Community

Change In the consumers preference, tough competition with factory made products, problems of raw matenal and tln3;nclal problems

2 3 4 5 6 7

HindUism Kablrpanthl 32 32

Chamar

Budhlsm Kmnaura

Total 32 32 190

Table 51 Reasons reported by the households for disintegration of craft classified by penod and educational level of the head of the household

Educational level of Number of Number of households reported about the disintegration of craft since the head o~ the households household engaged In craft

Less than 5 years 5-10 years 10-19 years 20 + years

Change In the consumers preference, tough competition with factory made product, problem of raw matenal and marketing finished products

2 3 4 5 6

Illiterate 13 13

~terate (without 3 3 lducahonallevel)

Jnmary 6 6

.1lddle 8 8

Matriculation or Hr Sec

Graduate & above 1_

Total 32 32 191

Table 52 Households reported about the rejuvenation method to be adopted and the attempts made for reluvenatlon classified by educational level of the head of the household

Educational level of Number of Number of househods reported about the Number of households reported about the the head of the households rejuvenation of craft attempts made to rejuvenate the craft household engaged In the craft

Craft can Attempts made to rejuvenated by rej uvenate the craft

Craft can not be Govt can provide No attempts made Govt IS attempting rejuvenate by any raw matenal at to rejuvenate the to help under way and means susldlsed rate also craft I R D P programme can provide financial and marketing assistance

2 3 4 5 6

Illiterate 13 13 13

Literate (Without 3 3 3 educational level)

Primary 6 6 6

Middle 8 8 8

Matriculation or Hr Sec

Graduate & above

Total .92 32 -62 192

Table 53 Households reported about the craft as source livelihood In the past or as a non·lucratlve lob classified by religion, caste/tribe/community of the head of the household and reason reported for the craft as non·lucratlve lob

ReligIon, Tnbe/Communlty of the head Number of households Number of households consIdered the craft In the of the household engaged In the craft past as a

ReligIon Caste!Tnbe/Communlty Source of livelIhood Non·lucratlve Job due to

2 3 4 5

HindUism Chamar 15 15

Kablrpanthl 32 32

Budhlsm K,nnaura 13 13

Total 60 60 193

Table 54 Households reported about the craft as a source of gamful employment classified by religIOn, caste/tribe/community of the head of the household and reasons reported for considering the craft as a profitable occupation

Number of households considering the craft now as

Source for gainful employment and factors responsible to make the craft profitable though It Religion, Caste/Tnbe/Communlty of the head IS a source of Ilvelihcod of the household through hentage but It can be made more profitable If

Rehglon Caste/Tnbe/CommuOity Number of households Not a source of gainful Govt provides loans, raw engaged In the craft employment material on reasonable rates and market for finished goods

2 3 4 5

HindUism

Chamar 15 15

Kablrpanthl 32 25 7

Budhlsm

Klnnaura 13 13

60 25 35 194

Table Households reported having improved/not Improved their economic status with reasons

Number of tlouseholds reported abou!

Improved due to

Educational level of Number of Craft IS stili In Cash remuneration The participatIOn of InstalatlOn of the head of the households demand other members of flighted shuttle loom household engaged In craft the household to get production has more earning Increased

2 3 4 5 6

illiterate 21 7

Literate (without 14 2 3 5 educational level)

Primary 14 4 3

Middle 9

Matriculation or - Hr Sec

Graduate & above

Total 60 13 5 9 195 is tlereof classified by educational level of the head of the household their economic position

Not Improved due to

Financial problems to Increase market for Chang~ In consumer Not economically Less demand and low buy raw matenal and not finished goods and preference profitable Job wages availability of raw change In consumer matenal on reasonable behaviour rates

7 8 9 10 11

4 3 3 3

2 3

2 5

9 3 12 7 196

Table 56 Households wanting/not wantmg to have their sons/daughters engaged In the craft with reasons thereof classified by educational level of the head of the household

Number of households wanting to have their sons/daughters engaged Number of In the craft due to households not wanting to have their sons/daughters engaged In the same craft due to

Educational Number of Not having Hereditary Can be a extra Craft IS still In Less Less Income level of the households alternate work work and source of demand employment as compared head of the engaged In readily earnings opportunity In to other sector household the craft available other sector employment

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 illiterate 21 3 16

Literate 14 2 3 3 5 (without educational level)

Primary 14 2 2 8

Middle 9 2 6

Matriculation or Hr Sec

Graduate and above

Total 60 5 5 4 3 6 37 197

Table 57 Households reporting purity/pollution associated with the craft classified by religion, caste/tribe/community of the head of the household

Religion, Caste!Tnbe/Communlty Number of households reported Number of of the head of the household punty/pollutlon households reported about the PUrity/pollution aSSOCiated with the craft

Religion Caste/Trlbe/ Number of Associated with the Not assOCiated with Dally pooJa Community households craft the craft performed In the engaged In the craft morning by burning Incense (II) shoes put off out of the working place

2 3 4 5 6

HindUism

Chamar 15 15 15

Kablrpanthl 32 32 32

Budhlsm KlOnaura 13 13 13

Total 60 60 60 198

Table Households reported about younger generation of their community not taking Interest 10 the craft with

Religion, Caste(Tnbe/Communlty of the Number of households Number of households reported about the younger head of the household engaged In the craft generation

Religion Caste(Tnbe/Communlty Taking Interest In the craft Not taking Interest In the craft

2 3 4 5

Hinduism

Chamar 15 13 2

Kablrpanthl 32 4 28

Budhlsm

Klnnaura 13 6 7

Total 60 23 37 199

58 reasons thertlOf classified by religion, caste/tribe/community of the head of the household

N4mbQ( of households reported about the younger Number of households reported about the younger generation not takmg generation taking Interest In the craft due to Interest In the craft due to

&:ope of Unemployment Occupation After completion Other occupalion Financial and Not stated Increase In In other sector which can be ofeducalion IS more paying marketing falTlllyJnCOlTle undertaken In younger than craft problem spare time while generation prefer working In other to work In Govt sector offices

6 7 8 9 10 11 12

5 5 3

3 3 24

6 7

8 10 4 31 200

Table' Households reported circumstances which compelled/motivated them to take up occupation craft

Religion, Caste/Tnbe/Communlty of the head Number of households of the household Less than 5 years

Religion Caste/Tnbe/Communlty Number of households Motivation from parents Compulsion as there IS engaged In the craft and other family no other occupation to members undertake

2 3 4 5

HindUism Chamar 15

Kablfpanthl 32 2

Budhlsm Klnnaura 13

Total 60 2 201

S9 with period engaged in the craft classified by religion, caste/tribe/community of the head of the household

take up the craft since

5-9 years under 10-19 years under 20 + years under

Motivated by the There IS less Motivated by the There IS less Motivated by the Compulsion as environment of the opportunity of enVIronment of the opportunity of enVIronment of the there IS less household and employment In household and employment In household and opportunity In other parents other sector parents other sector parents sector (compulsion)

6 7 8 9 10 11

2 3 5 2 3

2 3 22

2 8

5 3 10 4 33 2 202

Table 60 Households reported havmg associated traditionally with the craft with penod of association classified by religion, caste/tnbe/community of the head of the household

Religion, Number of Number of households Number of households reported their association wlth1he Caste/Tnbe/ househods reported thel( association craft traditionally since Commumty engagedJn wtlh the craft of the head the craft of household

Religion Caste/Tnbe/ Traditionally Not One Two Three Not stated Community traditionally generation generations generations or more

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

HindUism

Chamar 15 8 7 3 4

Kablrpanthl 32 32 27 4

Budhlsm

Kmnaura 13 13 13 Total - 60 53 7 3 2 44 4 203-

Table 61 Households reported having satisfaction/dissatisfaction with with the occupation craft with reasons thereof classified by the educational level of the head of the household

Educat,onallevel of Number of Number of households reported the,r Number of households reported thel( the head of the households satisfaction with the occupation due to dissatisfaction with the occupation due to household engaged ,n the craft Sufficient earning Source of additional Non-profitable Non-availability of for running activities Income to the occupation financial assistance household by the govt raw matenalon reasonable rates, marketing problem

2 3 4 5 6

Illiterate 21 6 14

Literate (Without 14 7 3 4 educational level)

Primary 14 6 2 5

Middle 9 7

Matnculatlon or Hr Sec

Graduate & above

Total 60 20 6 32 2 204

Table 62 Households reported having expressed dissatisfaction with their occupation (craft) future plan and period of Implementation classified by the educational level of the head of the household

Educational level of the Number of households Number of households Number of households head of the household engaged In the craft intending to leave the Intending to leave the Non-Intending to leave occupation and their occupation the occupation future plan

2 3 4 5

Illiterate 21 14

LIterate (Without 14 4 educational level)

Pnmary 14 6

Middle 9 B

Matnculatlon or Hr Sec

Graduate & above

Total 60 34 APPENDIX - II 206

Table Distribution of population classified by

Age Group Never marned Marned

p M F P M F

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

0-4 10 6 4

5-9 14 9 5

10-14 17 7 10

15-19 12 3 9 3 3

20-24 5 5 5 2 3

25-29 6 3 3

30-34 4 3 35-44 11 3 a 45-54 8 6 2

55-69 7 4 3

70+

O\NS

rotal 59 31 2B 44 21 23 207

1 age, sex and marital status

Widowed Divorced or separated Total population

p M F P M F P M F 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

10 4 6 14 9 5

17 7 10 15 3 12

11 8 3

7 4 :3

4 3

11 3 8

8 6 2

2 2 9 4 5

2 2 2 2

4 2 2 108 55 53 208

Table Distribution of population classIfied by

Age Group Total population illiterate Literate (without .... educational level)

M F M F M F

2 :J 4 5 6 7 8

All ages 108 55 53 16 28 16 11

0-4 10 6 4 6 4

5-9 14 9 5 3 6 4

10-14 17 7 10 4 6

15-19 15 3 12 5

20-24 11 8 3 2

25-34 11 7 4 4

35+ 30 15 15 7 13 3

Age Not Stated 209

2 by age, sex and educational level

Educational level

Pnmary Middle MatriculatIOn or Hr Sec Graduate & above

M F M F M F M F

9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16

15 8 4 2 3 4

3 3

2 3 3

5

2 2

3 2

--- 210

Table 3 Distribution of households classified by religIOn, caste/tribe/community, sex and educational level of head of the household

Name 01 Number of Number of Number of households by educational level of Religion CastefTnbe/ households head of the household Community by sex of head of the household

Sex Number of illiterate Literate Educational level households without educational Primary Middle Matriculation level or Hr Sec

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

HindUism

Kablrpanthl M 5 2 2

F 3

Chamar M 5 3 F

Budhlsm

Kmnaura M 7 2 2 F 211

Table 4 !Jistnbutlon of households classified by age and sex of head of household and number of members

Age of Number of Number of households having members head of household by sex house­ of head of the hold household

Sex Number Smgle 2 3 4 5 6·7 8-9 10-12 13 & of house- above holds

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Below 20

M

F

'20-29

M 2

F

30-39

M - 6 6 F

40-49

M 4 2

F 2

50-59

M 2

F

60& above

M 2

F 212

Table 4 - contd Distribution of households classified by age and sex of head of household and number of members

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Age not stated

M

F

Total

M 17 2 7 3 2

F 3 2 213

Table 5 DIstribution of households clasSIfied by nature of relation of members to head of the household and number of members

Nature of relation of members to head of the Number of households Number of members household

2 3

Self 2 2

2 Self, spouse 2

3 Self, spouse, unmarned sons and daughters 8 44

4 Self, spouse, marned son and son's wife with 4 26 or without unmarried sons and daughters

5 Self (Female), unmarried son/daughter 7

6 Self, spouse with or without unmarned 2 15 son/daughter and widowed father

7 Self, spouse with or without unmarried 5 son/daughter and widowed mother

8 Self (Female), unmarried son, daughter and 7 husband, widowed mother

9 Other (Specify)

Total 20 108

Table 6 DistributIon of households clasSified by migration status with reference to place of birth and reasons for migration

Migration status with reference Number of households to place of birth which have migrated - due to

N

2 3 4

'A' Non-migrant (born In the 17 Village)

'B' Migrant

(I) Born outside the Village but In the same distract (Rural)

(II) Born outside the district but Within the State

Una (Urban)

(III) Born outside the State

Punjab (Rural)

Total 20 2 2 214

Table Dlstnbution of workers and non-workers classified by

Name of Total population Number of workers and castefTnbe/ All ages Com~unlty Workers Non-w.orkers

p' M F P M F P M F

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

Kablr- 47 21 26 20 13 7 27 8 19 panthl

Chamar 27 14 13 13 8 5 14 6 8

Klnnaura 34 20 14 9 8 25 12 13 215

7 sex, caste/tribe/community and broad age-group

non-workers by age grQup

0-14 years 15-34 years

Workers Non-Workers Workers Non-Workers

p M F p M F p M F p M - f

11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22

8 7 15 7 8 6 5 .. 2 9 5 4 6 3 3 4 3

15 9 6 7 6 6 2 4 216

Table 7 Distribution of workers and non-workers classified by sex, caste/tribe/community and r,road age-group (Concld.)

35-59 years 60 + years

Workers Non-Workers Workers Non-Workers

p M F P M F p M F p M F

23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34

10 5 5 3 3 4 3

5 4

2 2 2 2 2 217

Table 8 Distribution of workers and non-workers classified by sex and educational level

Educational Total Population Number of workers Number of non-workers level

P M F P M F P M F

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10

I illiterate 43 15 28 16 6 10 27 9 18

II Literate 28 17 11 8 7 20 10 10 (without educational level) III Pnmary 23 15 8 11 10 12 5 7

IV Middle 6 4 2 3 3 3 2

V Matriculation 7 3 4 3 2 4 4 or Higher Secondary

VI Graduate & above 218

Table Distribution of workers classified by traditional and

Tradl- Sex of Total tIOnal the head number Number of workers occupa- of the of tlon of house- workers the head hold 0-14 years where 15-34 years where present occupation IS of the present occupation household IS

Same as If different (Name of occupation) In col 1

If Same as General Grain Cultl- Agncul- Vege- Conduc- different In coil Labourer shop- vator tural table tor In (name keeper labourer seller HP of the Trans- occupa- port tlcn)

2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Weaving Male 38 2 8 4

Female 4 219

9 present occupation sex and broad age-group

by age group

35-59 years where present occupation IS 60 + years where present occupation IS

)1 dilierent (name 01 occupation) )1 ditferent (name 01 occupation)

Motor Pan TaxI Same General Cultivator Gram Agncul- T1'lIlonng TaxI Same Gleneral Culti­ mechanic Bldl, dnver as In labour_ shop tural dnver aSln labou­ vator cigarette col 1 keeper labourer col 1 rer selier

23 24 25 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21

3 6 2 2 3

2 22Q

Table Distribution of workers classIfied by traditional and present occupation

Number of workers by

0-14 years where present 15-34 years where present occupation IS occupation IS

If different If different the reason for leaving the traditional occupation the reason for leaving the traditional occupation

TraditIOnal Sex of the Total Same as Present Same as Not econo- Due to lit Non- Lack of Old not occupa- head of number of in col 1 occupation In col 1 mlcal health availability financial learn the tlon of the the workers IS more of raw help from craft head of household paying matenal the Govt the on household reasonable rates

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11

Weaving

Male 38 2 11 4

Female 4 221

10 sex and broad age-group and the reason for leaving the traditional occupation

age-group

35-39 years where present occupation IS 60 + years where present occupation IS

If different the reason for leaving the hadltlonal occupation If different the reason for leaving the traditional occupation

Not Due to III Non­ Old not learn Due to III Not worth Non economical health availability the craft health paying availability of raw of raw matenal matenalon reasonable rates

Same Same as In as In coil .. call 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20

8 3 2 2

_1 2

223

Table 11 Distribution of non-workers by sex, age and type of activity

Number of non-workers by type of activity and sex

Age Numberot non-workers Infant Full time student Household duty Dependent Group

p M F M F M F M F M F

I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

0-14 39 21 18 2 14 12 5 6

15-t9 12 2 10 2 5 5

20-24 4 2 2 2

25-29 2 2 2

30-39 2 2 2

40-49 3 3 3

50-59

60+ 3 2 2

Total 66 26 40 2 17 17 15 7 8 224

Table Household reported reasons for giving up the craft classified by sex,

Religion, Caste/Tnbe/Communlty Number of of the head of the household

Less than 5 years due to

Religion Caste/Tnbe/ Not worth paying Non-availability of Community raw matenal on Sex of head of the Number of reasonable rates household households

2 3 4 5 6

HindUism Kablrpanthl M 5

F 3

Chamar M 5 F

Budhlsm Klnnaura M 7 4 F 225

12 religion and caste/tribe/community of the head of the household households havmg given up the craft since

5-9 years due to 10-19 years due to 20 + years due to

Not worth paymg Handicapped Not worth paying Illness Lack of financial Not worth paymg help from the Govt

7 8 9 10 11 12

3

2 226

Table Distribution of households having member(s) with necessary skill to practice the craft and reported reasons for not practising

EducatJonallevel of head of Sex of the head of the Number of househotds Number of households having the household household no members with necessary skill to practice the craft

2 3 4

IIhterat& M 5

F

LIterate (without M 4 educational level)

F 2

Primary M 5 F

Middle M 2 F

Matriculation or Hr Sec M

F 227

13 the craft classified by educational level of the head of the household

Number of households haVing member(s) with necessary skill to practice the craft but not practising the same due to

Less profit Non-availability Not worth paying Handicapped Not paying Illness Non-availability of raw matenal of subsidised raw matenal and financial assistance from the Govt

5 678 9 10 11

2 2

2 3 228

Table DIstribution of households having member(s) wIth necessary skIll to practice the craft and reported

Occupation of the head of the Sex of the head of the ,Number of households Number of households having household household no member With necessarY skill to practice the craft

2 3 4

Road labourer M 5

F

Household duties M

F

Grain shopkeep",r M 2

F

Agnculturallabourer M

F

Cultivator M 2

F

Tallonng M 2

F

Conductor In road tranport M

F

Taxi dnver M 2 ./ F

Genral labourer M

F

Motor mechaniC M

F

Pan, bldl, cigarette shop M

F 229

14 reasons for not practising the craft classified by occupation of the head of the household

Number of households having member(s) with necessary skill to practice the craft but not practising the same due to reason

Non-availability Not worth paYing Handicapped Not paying Illness Less profit Non-availability of raw matenal of subsidised raw matenal and financial assistance from the Govt

5 6 7 8 9 40 11

2 3

2 23()

Table 15 " Households having member(s) with necessary skill and who are not practising the craft now but are considering to take up the craft as an occupation classified by sex and educational level of the head of the household

Educational level of Sex of the head of Number of Number of the " Number of the households having the head of the the household households households having member(s) With necessary skill not household no member With practising the craft now but are necessary skill to practice the craft Considering to take Not considering to up the craft as an take up the craft as occupation an occupation

2 3 4 5 6

IIhterate M 5 4

F

LIterate (without M 4 3 educational level)

F

Primary M 5 4

I F

Middle M 2 2

F

Matriculation or M Hr Sec

F 231

Table 16 Households having member(s) with necessary skill and who are not practising the craft now but are considering to take up the craft as an occupation classified by sex and occupation of the head of the household

Number of the households having Number of the member(s) With necessary skill not households having practlsltlg the craft now but are no member with Occupation of the Sex of the head of Number of necessary skill to Considering to take Not consldenng to head of the the household households practice the craft up the craft as an take up the craft as household occupation an occupation

2 3 4 5 6

Road labourer M 5 3 2 F

Household duties M

F

Gram shopkeeper M 2 2

F

Agnculturallabourer M

F

Cultivator M 2 2 F

Tallonng M 2 2

F

Conductor In road M transport

F

Taxi driver M 2 2 F

General labourer M

F

Motor mechaniC M

F

Pan, bldl, cigarette M seller

F 232

Table 17 Number of households disinterested In having their sons/daughters sticking to their traditional occupation but hke to have them engaged in occupation of thelf IIkmg classified by sex and present occupation of the head of the household

"- Number of households rported that their sons/daughters should not stick to the traditional occupation of the head of the household

Occupation of the Sex of the head of Number of Craft IS less Traditional Traditional head of the the household households profitable than other occupation IS not occupation IS not household occupation worthy paymg paying to run occupation livelihood smoothly

2 3 4 5 6

Road labourer M 5 2 3 F

Household duties M

F

Grain shopkeeper M 2 2 F

Agnculturallabourer M F

Cultivator M 2 F

Tailoring M 2 F

Conductor In road M transport

F

Taxidnver M 2 2 F

General labourer M F

Motor mechaniC M F

Pan, bldl, cigarette M seller F 233

Table 18 Number of households disinterested In having their sons/daughters sticking to their traditional occupatIOn but like-to have them engaged In occupation of their liking classified by sex and educational level of the head of the household

Number of households reported that their sons/daughters should not stick to the traditional occupation but should follow the occupation of their liking due to

Educational level of Sex of the head of Number of Craft IS less Traditional Traditional the head of the the household households profitable than other occupation IS not occupation IS not household occupation worthy paying paying to run occupation livelihood smoothly

2 3 4 5 6

IIhterate M 5 2 2 F

Literate (without M 4 2 educational level) F

Primary M 5 3 2 F

Middle M 2 1 - F

Matriculation or M Hr Sec

F 234

Table Households reported reasons for prosperity/adversity of the craft In recent past and gIven suggestion to develop the

Rellglonl Number reporting reason$ for prospenty/adverslty of the craft CastefTnbe/ Community of the head of the household Reasons for adversity

Religion CastefTnbel Sex of the Number of Reasons Change In Less Non- No proper Costly raw Community head of the households for consumer profitable availability marketing, matenal household prospenty preferance of raw no supply and and non- matenalln of raw change In Craft IS In availability reason-able matenal consumers demand of raw rates preferlince and wages matenals/ are being financial received In help and cash for market the last 10-15 years 2 - 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 Budhlsm Klnnaura M 7 7 F

H,ndUism Chamar M 5 3 2 F

Kablrpanthi M 5 3

F 3 235

19 craft classified by religion, caste/tribe/community of head of the household

Number of households suggested measures to develop the craft

Govt should No suggestion Proper marketing of FP Marketing supply of raw Regular supply of raw provide and availability of raw matenal of finished matenal financial help, raw matenal products matenalln reasonable rates and market finished products loan on cheaper rates

11 12 13 14 15

7

5

3

Appendix-III 2\38

Dlstrictwlse location of institutions concerning to weaving and spinning, tralning-cum-productlon centres and sale centres run by various agencies of the state government 1985

81 No Name of dlstnct Name of institutIOn

2 3

Himachal Pradesh Khadl & Village Industnes

Board

Chamba Weaving Centre, Chamba

2 Spinning Centre, Chamba

3 Spinning Centre, Mehla

4 Spinning Centre, RaJnagar

5 Spinning Centre, Nalnl Khad

6 Training Centre, Langl

2 Kangra Weaving Centre, Pragpur

2 Weaving Centre, Dharamsala

3 Weaving Centre, Narpur

4 Spinning Centre, Papooh

5, Spinning Centre, Mahotll

6 Spinning Centre, Gangath

7 Spinning Centre, RaJa-ka-Talab

8 Spinning Centre, Badalthor

9 Spinning Centre, Dadaslba

10 Spinning Centre, Hanpur

11 Splnnmg Centre, Pragpur

3 Una Weaving Centre, Una

2 Spinning Centre, Saloh

3 Spinning Centre, Dehlan

4 Spinning Centre, PanJawar

4 Bllaspur Spinning Centre, BassI

5 Mandl Weaving Centre, Mandl

2 Weaving Centre, Sunder Nagar

3 Spinning Centre, Sunder Nagar

4 Spinning Centre, Lunapanl

5 Spinning Centre, Mandl

6 Finish Plant, Mandl 239

SI No I Name of dlstnct Name of institution

2 3

6 Kullu Weaving Centre, Kullu

2 Spinning Centre, Kullu

7 Lahul & SPltl Training Centre, Kaza

2 Training Centre, Keylong

8 Kinnaur Training Cen1re, Spillo

Himachal Pradesh Handicraft and Handloom Corporation

Chamba Weaving Production Centre, Chamba

2 Weaving Production Centre, Tissa

3 Weaving Production Centre, Saral

4 Weaving Production Centre, Mehla

5 Weaving Production Centre, Sihunta

6 Weaving Production Centre, Tundl

7 Sub-procurement unit, Brahmaur

8 Sub-procurement unit, Pangl

9 Chamba Textiles, Chamba

2 Kangra Weaving Production Centre, BalJnath

2 Weaving Production Centre, Palampur

3 Weaving Production Centre, Ferahar

4 Weaving Production Centre, Khundlan

5 Weaving ProductIOn _,.centre, Pal am pur

3 Hamlrpur Weaving i2roductlOn Centre, Hamlrpur

2 Procurement unit, Hamlrpur

4 Una Sub-procurement unit, Una

5 Bllaspur Weaving ProductIOn Centre, Bllaspur

2 Weaving Production Centre, Barthln

6 Mandl Weaving ProductIOn Centre, Mandl

2 Weaving Production Centre, Gohar

3 Weaving ProductIOn Centre, Joglnder Nager

7 Kullu Production Cen!re, Oalash (Am)

2 Procurement UM, (K~iiur 240

81 No Name of district Name of institutIOn

2 3

8 Lahul & SPltl Sub-procurement unit, Keylong

2 Sub-procurement unit Scheme, Kaza

3 Weaving Production Centre, Keylong

9 Shlmla Handicraft Designs Development Centre, Shlmla

2 Handloom DeslOgs Development Centre, Shlmla

3 Weavmg ProductIOn Centre, Kotl

4 Procurement unit, Shlmla

10 Solan Handicraft Training Centre, Garkhal

2 Weaving Production Centre, Arkl

11 K,nnaur Weaving Production Centre, Nlchar

2 Weaving Production Centre, Kalpa

3 Weaving ProductIOn Centre, Spilio

4 Weaving PrOductIOn Centre, Rlbba

5 Weaving Production Centre, Sangla

€ Weaving Production Centre, Rasong

7 Weaving Production Centre, Sungra

8 Procurement unit, Kalpa

9 Klnnaur Textiles, Nlchar

Directorate of Industries Himachal Pradesh

Serlculture Centres

Kangra Palampur, 2 Baljnath, 3 Rajpur, 4 Lambagran, 5 Thural, 6 Nagrota Bagwan,7 RajlOa,8 Bharoll, 9 Oaulatpur, 10 Kangra, 11 Najkhandl, 12 Oehra, 13 Ichhl, 14 Shahpur, 15 Bhadwara, 16 Nurpur, 17, Nagrota SUrlan, 18 Pragpur, 19 Bharmaur

2 Mandl Chauntra, 2 Oadour, 3 Baldwara, 4 Sajau Plplu, 5 Sandhol, 6 Nagwam

3 Kullu Sen culture Centre, Nagwaln

4 Sen culture Farm, Mashobra

Sen culture Farm, Ghanahattl SKETCHES

Himalayan goat

Sheep

c ' 0) .(ii Q) o

.c~ (j)

a; e- o«l C «l +-' OJ ..0 i= '0 c .2> (/) oOJ Throw shuttle frame loom An old type of loom

Carders

Wooden Comb

I

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