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ISSUE 148 THE TRAVEL ISSUE 7/27/18 1:50 PM JULY/AUGUST 2018 CHRISTO 148_COVER_FINAL.indd 1 CONTRIBUTORS Contributors FRANCISCO NOGUEIRA SARAH KHAN GISELA WILLIAMS Photographer, “Castles Made of Sand” Writer, “Force of Nature” (page 102) and Writer, “Castles Made of Sand” (page 96) (page 96) “Destination: Mumbai” (page 59) Where in the world do you wish you were The best view you’ve ever seen? “Seeing The happiest mistake you made while trav- right now? “I am almost always happy to my son Bart being born was the most eling? “Road-tripping through Namibia, be in the place I am at any given moment. TOPS ON TOP memorable thing I’ve ever seen. I got to we were warned to make it to our destina- Currently, that’s on a wooden deck over- photograph it with happy tears. In a few tions by nightfall—the roads are treacher- looking the Baltic Sea on Blidö—one of Cindy Crawford on Silestone® Eternal Marquina weeks I’m having a daughter, so I can’t ous enough by day. Once, we made too thousands of islands that make up the wait for the same spectacular view!” many stops and wound up in complete Swedish Archipelago.” darkness. As we drove along nervously, a Nogueira is a Lisbon-based photographer Gisela Williams has lived in Bali, Bermuda, pair of elephants suddenly appeared in the with a background in architecture, docu- and Brooklyn, before settling down in headlights.” menting the appropriation of space and the Berlin with her husband and three chil- man-made landscape. He has published Sarah Khan has lived in five countries on dren. She covers culture, design, and travel two books about the architectural heritage three continents, and has crisscrossed the as a European correspondent for The New of former Portuguese colonies in Africa: globe to report for The New York Times, York Times T Magazine and Departures, Bijagós: Património Arquitectónico and The Wall Street Journal, Conde Nast and in a monthly column for Elle Decor. As Roças de São Tomé e Príncipe. Traveler, and others. AART-JAN VENEMA Illustrator, “Force of Nature” (page 102) Your favorite location to sketch? “The best place to sketch is outside in nature, where I can draw what I see or whatever I’m thinking about, without distractions. In the end though, I always end up behind my computer, looking up all kind of reference images for the job.” Venema is a Dutch illustrator whose work has appeared in the Guardian and The New Yorker. He loves to set a scene with lots of little stories and details for the observant reader to discover. Cicada Books is releasing his first children’s book at the end of 2018. On Top (FROM TOP) An outtake from Francisco Nogueira’s shoot in Comporta, Portugal for “Castles Made of Sand.” A sketch by Aart-Jan OpplevFeel the den new nye Venema for “Force of Nature.” velvetyfløyelsaktige texture Discover more at silestoneusa.com | Follow Us F T ò @CosentinoUSA teksturen SURFACE 20 148_CONTRIBUTORS.indd 20 7/31/18 1:35 PM DESTINATION Mumbai In the spiritual home The only other place that evokes such Contemporary Culture and Bombay Art visceral emotions is New York. Each Society, stylish emporiums like Nicobar of Bollywood, a swirl of requires endurance to navigate and brain- that always end up forcing me to pony up tradition and innovation numbing mental gymnastics to render baggage fees, and a greater concentration puts the creative capital on palatable; after a few days inhaling the air of restaurants I’d happily board a plane to of either city, devoting the rest of your life revisit than any other city in the world— the cutting edge. to New York traffic or all your income to with homegrown chefs and restaurateurs Mumbai rent—for what in a lesser city like Thomas Zacharias, Zorawar Kalra, BY SARAH KHAN could be mistaken for a gym locker— and Rahul Akerkar and expats like Kelvin might sound like perfectly reasonable Cheung and Alex Sanchez. Mumbai also Some cities are coquettes, slowly seducing propositions. hosts festivals and events catering to every you with new reveals over time. Others I’m hardly the first person to note the conceivable creative interest: The Kala are slaps in the face, leaving you begging similarities between the two, each a hub Ghoda Arts Festival draws thousands for more. Mumbai—or Bombay, as you’ll known for its commerce, media, fash- each February to theater performances, usually hear it called once you arrive—is ion, and design. “A city like Bombay, like gallery openings, and author talks; Lakme unequivocally the latter, a seething mass New York, that is a recent creation and does India Fashion Week is where you’ll find of concrete and humanity, perpetually not have a substantial indigenous popula- both up-and-coming and established cou- NEW ROOMS BETTER STORIES hung with sweat. It’s also glamorous and tion, is full of restless people,” Suketu Mehta turiers to the stars on display; the Design addictive, and I can never get enough. wrote in Maximum City: Bombay Lost Fabric Festival, which launched this I fell hard for Mumbai on my first trip and Found, his definitive biography of the March to begin a much-needed conversa- there as an adult, nearly two decades after city. “Those who have come here have not tion on India’s vibrant design vernacular; my last visit to see family. For an avowed been at ease somewhere else.” and St+Art Mumbai Urban Art Festival, Bollywood disciple like myself, watch- When in town, I’m both completely at which brings together global and Indian ing a city immortalized on celluloid come ease, knowing the city is lying in wait at street artists to revamp public spaces. to life has a dissonant quality of nov- my doorstep, yet also restless, afraid of One chef who’s blazed a cross-conti- elty and familiarity. The gentle curve of missing a Mumbai moment—a run-in nental restaurant empire for himself is Marine Drive, the whitewashed churches with a Bollywood star at a hair salon; a Mumbai-born, New York–based chef of Bandra, the crumbling mansions of sprint through a thundershower to hop Floyd Cardoz. He opened the peppy Colaba, and Indo-Saracenic buildings all into a rickshaw; drinks with friends at Bombay Bread Bar in Manhattan’s SoHo jostle for space against the backdrop of historic members-only clubs unchanged this year, but he spends a significant the Arabian Sea: I knew its motley sky- since their colonial heydays. Traffic not- portion of time going back and forth line intimately even as I took it in properly withstanding, I’m on the go from the sec- to Mumbai, where he’s opened two res- for the first time. I found myself swept up ond I touch down, careening from the taurants with cult followings: O Pedro in the energy pulsing through the streets, galleries and boutiques reviving heritage and Bombay Canteen. “I think Bombay with a torrent of people flowing by car, mansions in South Mumbai to the trendy and New York are very very similar— bus, cycle, rickshaw, and on foot. Since restaurants and bars of Bandra, the posh Bombay is a city that doesn’t sleep, a city then, I’ve been looking for excuses to suburb that’s now synonymous with that has multiple cultures, where every- binge on Mumbai’s particular brand of India’s behemoth film industry. With one is welcome and you can get anything magic meets madness, at the intersection each return, I discover something new: anytime,” he says. “It’s like an oyster A unique luxury resort & casino POOJA ACHAN. PHOTO: of noise pollution and stardust. art foundations like G5 Foundation for that’s just waiting to be taken.” 59 148_DESTINATION.indd 59 7/31/18 4:06 PM DESTINATION DESTINATION ANITA DONGRE DESIGNER “Bandra is home in more ways than one. My mornings begin with a seaside walk down Pali Hill and Carter Road. I love popping by Olive for amazing meals and warm welcomes. Chef Rishim makes the best vegan cheeses in town, and Neelam, the restaurant’s ever-smiling hostess, spoils me with her company. For a nice sit-down dinner with my family, I go to The Chambers at the Taj Land’s End, a private, members-only club. The view is spectacular, and the service is flawless. I spend Sunday mornings at the Farmers’ Market in Bandra Gymkhana, buying fresh organic pro - duce. But when chaats are a must-have, the go-to place is Ram and Shyam, in Santacruz. It has been there for over twenty- five years, and the second gen- eration now runs it.” HOTELS So much of modern Indian hospital- The old-world grande dame also hap- Mumbai is representative of the new. ity borrows from the Taj Mahal Palace pens to house some of Mumbai’s most The global giant nods to local traditions Hotel that it’s hard to overstate the land- cutting-edge restaurants—from Wasabi in the design, from the banarasi throw mark’s stature in Mumbai. According by Morimoto to the rooftop Souk. pillows in the rooms to the layout itself: to legend, wealthy industrialist Jamsetji The Taj’s most worthy rival is the ven- The glass tower was built in accordance Tata was refused entry to the whites- erable 287-room Oberoi Mumbai, in with Vastu architectural principles. only Watson’s Hotel in Colaba, which the heart of the city’s business district While you’re likely to spy moguls clos- bore a sign declaring “Dogs and Indians at Nariman Point.

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