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C M Y K xxx,2016-10-09,TR,001,Bs,E1 Lorem ipsum dollor sitt att, consec tteur adipis cing elitt, 10 a diam no nummy nim euismod ttincind DISCOVERY ADVENTURE ESCAPE SUNDAY, OCTOBER 9, 2016 TREVOR TONDRO FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES In Los Angeles, Art Deco Jewels ity to its dreams by making an industry of across the street that it dwarfs. The Art Deco elements of Los By JOHN L. DORMAN Exuberant reminders of them. Completed in the late 1980s, the iconic Angeles Union Station, the days when movies California’s broad landscape suggests end- You tend to forget about reveries, though, Bank Tower is one of those structures that completed in 1939, are subtle. less possibility, a chance to realize your when the 101 freeway slows to a crawl, as it sneak up in vistas to remind you that yes, ruled the city’s economy. dreams. You can backpack in the Klamath did when I began to navigate the road in you’re in Los Angeles, in case you were National Forest within Siskiyou County. Hollywood this spring. Time on my hands, I wondering. It was the tallest building west You can find a slice of Denmark in the Santa looked up and caught a glimpse of the 73- of the Mississippi for 27 years, until the Ynez Valley. Or you can immerse yourself in story U.S. Bank Tower, referred to as Li- Wilshire Grand Center was completed this the glittery landscape of the Hollywood brary Tower by many locals for the 90-year- year. Designed by the architect Henry N. hills, the place that has applied a practical- old actual library and architectural gem CONTINUED ON PAGE 8 36 Hours M UMBAI, INDIA From beach to gardens to boutiques, a dynamic city beckons. and it feels as if there’s a piece of it for every- By SARAH KHAN one — from the families gathering around Friday the cotton candy vendors on Chowpatty Call it India’s financial epicenter, glamour 1 4 P.M. STROLL THROUGH HISTORY hub or culinary capital — but whatever you Beach to the fashionistas browsing exclu- • do, don’t call it “Mumbai.” The coastal me- sive boutiques in renovated heritage build- Get a taste of what the city was like when it tropolis may have changed its name from ings in Kala Ghoda. You’re likely to spend was still Bombay — bastion of the British Bombay to Mumbai over two decades ago, much of your weekend in bumper-to-bump- Raj. Meander through the city’s southern but judging by their refusal to adopt its us- er traffic, but with a bit of planning, you can reaches, starting at the Gateway of India, age, locals are ignoring the memo. More sample the sights, glitter and art of Mumbai overlooking the Arabian Sea: Completed in PORAS CHAUDHARY FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES than 20 million call the dynamic city home, — er, Bombay — in one weekend. 1924, this iconic monument was built to com- Hanging out at sunset on the promenade along Marine Drive on the Arabian Sea. CONTINUED ON PAGE 13 C M Y K Sxxx,2016-10-09,TR,008,Bs-4C,E1 8 TR THE NEW YORK TIMES, SUNDAY, OCTOBER 9, 2016 36 Hours M UMBAI, INDIA CONTINUED FROM PAGE Left, Elphinstone College in Kala Ghoda, memorate the visit of King George V and established in 1856, one of the oldest colleges of Queen Mary. Then turn your attention to its the University of Mumbai. Far left, from top, neighbor, the 1903 Taj Mahal Palace Hotel, a Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount, known as cakelike confection that serves as a fine ex- Mount Mary Church, during the weeklong ample of the Mughal-meets-Gothic style of Bandra Fair; a statue of the Hindu deity architecture known as Indo-Saracenic. Ganesh being taken for immersion in the Work your way north through Colaba and Arabian Sea at the beach at Girgaon during the along Mahatma Gandhi Road into nearby annual Ganesha Chaturthi festival. Kala Ghoda, admiring the hodgepodge of stately buildings that line the pedestrian- friendly districts: the bulbous dome of the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangra- halaya (formerly the Prince of Wales Mu- dian gastronomy with Masala Library a few seum), the Gothic Elphinstone College, the years ago, the restaurateur Zorawar Kalra neo-Classical Army & Navy Building, and unveiled the city’s buzziest new cocktail bar the powder-blue 1884 Keneseth Eliyahoo in March, serving up more molecular magic Synagogue. with MasalaBar. Cocktails meet chemistry in the form of theatrical drinks like the Bol- lywood Bhang (vodka with basil smoke 2 8 P.M. QUIRKY EATS • served in a skull-shaped glass). There is The New York chef and Top Chef Masters even a nod to MasalaBar’s seafront setting winner Floyd Cardoz returned to his Mum- on Carter Road in the form of the ideal late- bai roots when he opened Bombay Canteen afternoon tipple: Sunset @ Carter (whisky last year, a lighthearted tribute to the city he with rosemary, orange, and almond foam). left nearly three decades ago. Book ahead Meanwhile, snack on tasty tapas like ghee- for the executive chef Thomas Zacharias’s roasted scallops and truffled shiitake steak playful offerings in this campy, colorful burgers. space: Indian “tacos” with chicken tikka on fenugreek flatbreads (275 rupees, about $4); Kerala-style roasted fish swaddled in a 9 8 P.M. RETRO REPAST behemoth banana leaf (600 rupees); and • coffee rasgulla with salted caramel ice The owners of Pali Bhavan scoured Chor cream (350 rupees). The witty Hindi catch- Bazaar for their décor inspiration: You’ll phrases and Bollywood references embla- have a hard time finding an inch of wall zoned across the walls and on the servers’ space that isn’t adorned with a framed im- T-shirts might go over your head, but the age depicting vignettes from India’s past — bold flavors won’t bypass your taste buds. family pictures, college portraits, scenes from aristocratic life. The Old World dining PHOTOGRAPHS BY PORAS CHAUDHARY FOR THE NEW YORK TIMES room sets the stage for a traditional feast from across the country: classic butter chicken, harissa-spiced chicken tikka, Saturday IF YOU GO pumpkin kofta curry and galouti kebabs, •3 7 A.M. CRUISE THE COAST 1 Gateway of India. washed down with a pomegranate lassi. Ex- Drive up the coast before the traffic picks up 2 Bombay Canteen, Unit-1, pect to spend about 2,000 rupees for two. Af- steam. There are plenty of places for a photo Process House, Kamala Mills, terward, stroll to Punjab Sweet House for op: Start at Nariman Point, the heart of the near Radio Mirchi Office, S.B. classic Indian mithai (sweets): pistachio ice halwa, kalakand milk cake and mango financial district; work your way up Marine Road, Lower Parel; Drive, also known as the Queen’s Necklace, barfi. thebombaycanteen.com. where you’ll see families strolling or seated along the promenade (along with the occa- 3 Nariman Point. Haji Ali sional cozy couple); pop out at Chowpatty Dargah. Beach before the crowds descend; and 4 Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai Sunday drive into upscale Malabar Hills to the City Museum, 91 A, Rani Hanging Gardens before crossing over to Baug, Veer Mata Jijbai Bhosale •10 9 A.M. BANDRA-BOUND the scenic lookout at Kamala Nehru Park. Udyan, Dr. Babasaheb Ambed- Before the British, the Portuguese came Then cut through busy Peddar Road and kar Marg, Byculla East; ashore — and the suburb of Bandra, popu- emerge near the Haji Ali Dargah. Set on an bdlmuseum.org. lar for its trendy restaurants and Bollywood isle just off the coast, the 15th-century mau- 5 Chor Bazaar, Mutton Street, star haunts, is where you can see vestiges of soleum houses the remains of the Sufi saint the Portuguese stint in Mumbai. Book a Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari and is connected Kumbharwada. Taj Ice Cream, Khara Tank Road, Bohri Mo- walking tour with Raconteur, and a knowl- to the mainland by a half-mile-long cause- edgeable local will lead you through land- way, access to which depends entirely on halla. marks — the 1575 St. Andrew’s Church and the tides. 6 Britannia & Company, 11 the striking neo-Gothic Mount Mary — as Sprott Road, Ballard Estate, well as through former fishing and farming 4 10 A.M. MUSEUM BREAK opposite New Custom House; villages, pointing out street art along the • 91-22-2261-5264. The Table, way. You’ll end at the 1640-built Bandra Fort The Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu ground floor, Kalapesi Trust (keep an eye out for Bollywood megastar Sangrahalaya museum in Kala Ghoda is Building, Apollo Bunder Marg, Shah Rukh Khan’s house — you’ll recognize popular, but travelers pressed for time it from the hordes at the gates), where an should head to Byculla. Like Bombay/ Colaba; thetable.in easy climb yields panoramic views over the Mumbai, the striking Dr. Bhau Daji Lad 7 Le Mill, First Floor, Pheroze Mumbai City Museum has gone through Building above Indigo Deli, Sealink bridge and the Mumbai skyline be- some name changes in its long history. The Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj yond. museum opened to the public at its present THE NEW YORK TIMES Marg, Colaba; lemillindia.com. site as the Victoria and Albert Museum in Gem Palace, D-18 Dhanraj 11 11 A.M. TEATIME 1872; in 1975, it was given its current name, more than an hour of hand-churning. Fla- Mahal, Gateway of India, Co- • 7 2:30 P.M. FASHION FIX Recuperate from your walk at the Taj Mahal in honor of a prominent physician and phi- vors include sapota, mango, fig and sitafal; • laba; gempalacejaipur.com.

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