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HONG KONG THE GUIDE 147 The GUIDE Nighttime streets in front of the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus, an Indo- Saracenic landmark in the heart of South Mumbai. Mumbai to the Max Clamorous and captivating, India’s biggest city bursts with an energy that can be S felt across its ever-evolving spectrum of mage Y I Y restaurants and bars, one-off boutiques, GETT and creative pursuits. Here, a guide on what to eat, drink, and do now. BY CHRIS SCHALKX EXTREME-PHOTOGRAPHER/ FEBRUARY / march 2018 – DestinASIAN.COM 148 THE GUIDE MUMBAI NIGHT RIDER Given the chaos of Mumbai’s bustling daytime streets, it’s hard to imagine that the largest city in India ever gets quiet. It does—but you’ll have to forgo a night’s sleep to witness it. That’s where the Midnight Bicycle Ride run each Saturday by Reality Tours (realitytoursandtravel .com) comes in. Best known for its slum tours of Dharavi, where its sister NGO Reality Gives funds and operates educational programs, the community-driven company starts cyclists off in Colaba at 12 a.m., taking them through almost deserted streets past ethereally lit heritage buildings, eerily quiet beaches, sacred wells, and the world’s most expensive home, the 27-floor Antilia House, valued at upwards of US$1 billion. The seven-hour tour ends at Worli Fort, where you’ll arrive just in time for a spectacular sunrise with 360-degree {local take} city views, made even sweeter with a breakfast of idli and chai. it was crowned Best or the classic Sazerac. And Abhishek Honawar Bar for Cocktails by the come hungry, as there Hotelier and restaurateur, Honawar 2017 edition of the India are some delectable bar Hospitality Nightlife Convention and bites—paneer tikka tacos; Awards. Mood lighting, vada pav—on the menu My favorite local haunts are in and velvet couches, and a (fb.com/thelittleeasyindia). around South Mumbai. The Sea Lounge playlist of relaxed jazz set (tajhotels.com) at the Taj Mahal Palace the tone for an evening of THE QUarTER is a great breakfast spot and the perfect stiff drinks such as Sitting Set inside Mumbai’s prelude to a morning’s stroll around the In An English Garden beautifully restored Royal Waiting For The Sun, a Opera House, The Quarter atmospheric streets of Colaba. A nearby blend of gin, elderflower, provides an evening-filling cultural highlight is the Chhatrapati cucumber juice, egg white, experience spread over four Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya and lavender bitters different venues. There’s (csmvs.in)—formerly the Prince of Wales Where to (fb.com/slinkandbardot). a café and a restaurant Museum—for its collection of ancient serving Louisiana Creole ; ; Indian sculpture and miniature paintings. AR Drink Now ThE LITTLE EasY food, but vino lovers will W A Come evening, nothing beats a sunset N Billed as a speakeasy-style want to head straight O SliNK + BarDOT pub, The Little Easy in for Drink, Mumbai’s first cocktail at Dome (ihg.com), the rooftop K H HE This small-plate French Bandra eschews gimmickry mozzarella bar, where IS bar at the InterContinental on Marine BH F A F restaurant, which opened (there’s no secret location, burrata and bocconcini are (3) X Drive. I also love The Bombay Canteen O LK last May in an old turquoise no password) in favor paired with wines from a SY (thebombaycanteen.com) in Lower Parel, rte SCHA bungalow at the entrance of keeping the focus on well-stocked cellar. There’s U IS where classic regional Indian dishes co to Worli village, is worth expertly crafted cocktails also Live, a 1950s-inspired HR S; R : C U the schlep for the food by mixologist Mukesh jazz bar with nightly live are served with a modern twist. Don’t TE to SI Y Y alone. But the attached Khatri: try the gin-based performances and a T worry if you overindulge; you can dance it LI OPPO lounge (pictured above) Moonshiner with orange menu of classic cocktails . X off at XXO (stregismumbai.com), the two- REA F F LK is turning heads as well: juice and hibiscus syrup, (thequarter.in). O story nightclub at The St. Regis Mumbai. SY SCHA rte IS U HR C co DESTINASIAN.Com – februARY / MARCH 2018 HONG KONG THE GUIDE 149 Small Wonder everything that makes this bric-à-brac like chai trays and part of town so delightful: vintage tiffin boxes. While the For all the city’s grand hotels, it’s youthful, creative, and “basic” rooms are best avoided few places capture the essence proud of its rich heritage. All due to the lack of private of Mumbai quite like Abode of these traits are reflected bathrooms, the more spacious (abodeboutiquehotels.com; in the interiors, where hand- and photogenic top-level rooms doubles from US$118). Set painted tile floors complement come with walk-in rain showers, inside a lovely old building in an impressive collection of claw-foot bathtubs, and large the heart of Colaba, the 20- custom teak furnishings and windows that overlook the room bolt-hole encapsulates quirky, quintessentially Indian clamorous streets below. from all over India. Seven different Classic Kala Ghoda architecture. exhibition halls means there’s Below: Outside Obataimu. plenty to explore. 4:30 p.m. With a rustic interior 9 a.m. Start the morning with a that has barely changed since its house-blend coffee and a fruit- founding in 1953, Yazdani Bakery topped “desi” waffle at Kala (11 Cawasji Patel St.) is one of Ghoda Café (kgcafe.in), one of the Mumbai’s most iconic Iranian cafés. first spots to put Kala Ghoda on Do as the locals do and order a the map for young, in-the-know heavily buttered bun maska with a Mumbaikars. The whitewashed hot cup of chai to dunk it in. brick walls are hung with work by international photographers. 6 p.m. Head back to the area around the bright blue Keneseth 10:30 a.m. Discover that “bespoke Eliyahoo Synagogue for a bit of leisurewear” is a thing at the atelier shop-hopping before dinner. of Tokyo-meets-Mumbai clothing Filter (filtershop.in) stocks indie brand Obataimu (obataimu.com), magazines and stylish accessories; where a selection of incredibly Nicobar (nicobar.com) sells soft, mostly unisex garments can contemporary Indian fashion; and be tailored from scratch by a team Kulture Shop (kultureshop.in) offers of in-house artisans. A few doors limited-edition prints by local artists. away, hit up the equally cool Bombay Shirt Company 7:30 p.m. It may be a bit (bombayshirts.com) for cramped and dowdy, something more but none of that office-appropriate. matters at Trishna (trishna.co.in), 12:30 p.m. For a because the South leisurely lunch, Indian seafood A DAY IN KALA GHODA hop over to The here is widely Pantry (fb.com/ regarded as the best After much of the city’s buzz moved to its quickly thepantrymumbai), in town. Call ahead to located just across the book a table and be sure to ; ; gentrifying northern suburbs in the early 2000s, AR W street from Obataimu. With order the Hyderabadi pomfret A South Mumbai quietly started to slide into oblivion N O its high ceilings, industrial lighting, and butter pepper garlic crab. K H as an entertainment district. But thanks to a HE and subway-tiled walls, the café IS burgeoning arts scene and new creative initiatives, BH attracts a fashionable crowd; the 10 p.m. Before heading back to F A F (3) X O Kala Ghoda, the old cultural enclave just north of LK SY SY croque monsieur with wholegrain your hotel, check out Woodside rte Colaba, has cemented itself as one of the coolest SCHA U mustard is not to be missed. Inn (woodsideinn.in) for a locally IS co HR quarters in town. Flanked by Mumbai’s principal S; R brewed craft beer or two. Set inside : C U TE to museum and art galleries (not to mention some of SI 2:30 p.m. Release your inner the historic Indian Mercantile Y Y T LI the best-preserved buildings from the Raj era), the OPPO art critic at Jehangir Art Gallery Mansion, the neighborhood’s . X REA F F LK O area is well worth a day’s exploration, with its sleek (jehangirartgallery.com), a Mumbai favorite watering hole will have you SY SY SCHA concept stores, contemporary galleries, and hip institution showcasing the work of chatting with local creative types rte IS U HR C co hangouts all easily navigable by foot. well-known contemporary artists in no time. FEBRUARY / march 2018 – DestinASIAN.COM 150 THE GUIDE MUMBAI O Pedro’s Goan favorites include chorizo-and-bacon pulao, chili pakoras, and red snapper “poke.”& Tonic . Inset : The bar at Toast cultural melting pot of Manhattan’s East Village, the menu comprises a globetrotting lineup of dishes, all with a focus on local and seasonal ingredients. Whether you order the gumbo or the gnocchi, the duck tacos or the kibbeh, you’ll be assured of bold flavors, pretty plating, and a great attention to detail. As for cocktails, the restaurant’s name already gives it away: Toast and Tonic does a mean G&T. Try the signature Herbalist, a mix of gin, basil, and house-infused orange tonic water served with a large cube of coriander-orange ice (toastandtonic.com). WHERE TO EAT NOW JLWA Bandra’s newest fine-dining darling, JLWA (pronounced jal-wah) Masque Prateek Sadhu. Dishes on Masque’s proves that Goan cuisine can be occupies a shimmering space Tucked away in the unassuming regularly changing tasting menu so much more than vindaloo and below the ever-popular Escobar.