*• Contents

BACKGROUND

12 Two Sisters on the River 16 Facts 17 Population • Politics • Economy 22 City History 23 Romans, Huns and Arpads 25 The Coming of the Turks 26 The Danube Monarchy 28 up to 1945 30 The Communist Era 33 Democracy and Integration with the West 36 Art and Culture 37 Architecture 40 Special: A National Style PRACTICALITIES 44 Fine Arts 47 : City of Culture 60 Accommodation 50 Famous People 66 Arrival • Before the Journey 70 Baths and Spas 72 Special: In balneis sahis ... 74 Children in Budapest 76 Electricity 76 Emergency 76 Entertainment 78 Etiquette and Customs The Socialist 80 Festivals • Holidays • Events monuments are 82 Food and Drink obsolete. • page 237 91 Health 92 Information 93 Language 101 Literature

Bibliografische Informationen digitalisiert durch http://d-nb.info/991818733 • Contents ff

Two landmarks at once: Chain Bridge and Royal Palace t- page 163

102 Lost Property 103 Money 104 Museums and Exhibitions 109 Newspapers and Listings 109 Personal Safety 110 Post and Telecommunications 111 Prices • Discounts 112 Shopping 117 Sport and Outdoors TOURS 119 Theatre • Concerts • Musicals 123 Tours'Guides 134 Getting Around in Budapest 124 Transport 134 Tour 1: Across the Chain Bridge to 127 Travellers with Disabilities the Castle District 127 When to go 137 Tour 2: Gellert Hill 141 Tour 3: Along Andrassy lit to Heroes' Square In the Ethnographic Museum • page 169 J3"l.fl*','SiM.;|.'>'k1 *" Contents

SIGHTS FROM AtoZ

144 AndrSssy ut 146 Aquincum 148 Arts and Crafts Museum 149 Batthyany ter 151 Hills 152 Castle District 175 Gellert Hill 161 Cemeteries 178 Special: Hungary's Seething 162 Chain Bridge Cauldron 164 Danube Bend 182 Godollo 168 Elizabeth Bridge 182 Great Synagogue 168 Ethnographic Museum 184 Special: 170 Survival: Jewish Budapest 171 Fishermen's Bastion 186 Holocaust Museum 172 Fovam ter 187 Hosok tere 173 Franz Liszt Academy of Music 188 Inner City Parish Church 174 Gellert Bath 190 Karolyi Palace 191 Kiskorut in the Municipal Forest 194 Kossuth Lajos ter • page 251 •• Contents

195 Marcius15ter 196 198 200 3 D: Matthias Church 202 Museum of Fine Arts 208 Nagykorut 210 Nagyteteny Palace 211 National Museum 213 Nepliget 214 6buda 218 Parliament 220 3D: Parliament 222 Post Savings Bank Building 223 Rakdcziiit 223 Roosevelt ter 224 Rose Hill 244 Taban 225 Royal Palace 245 Town Hall 226 3D: Royal Palace 246 University Church 247 Vaci utca 248 Special: Cukrdszdas in Budapest 250 Varosliget 255 Velence Lake 256 Vigado 256 Vizivaros 258 Vorosmarty ter

260 Index 235 St Stephen's Basilica 264 List of Maps and Illustrations 237 Sculpture Park 265 Photo Credits 238 State Opera House 265 Publisher's Information 240 Szabadsag ter 241 Szentendre