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Modro-Belo Okraševanje Tekstilij

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Modro-Belo Okraševanje Tekstilij SI 78 Nina Čuk, Zala Mavrić, Alenka Pavko Čuden Univerza v Ljubljani, Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta, Oddelek za tekstilstvo, grafi ko in oblikovanje, Snežniška 5, 1000 Ljubljana Modro-belo okraševanje tekstilij: potencial medpredmetnih povezav v osnovni šoli Blue and White Decoration of Textiles: Potential of Cross-Curricular Links in Elementary School Strokovni članek/Proff essional Article Prispelo/Received 9-2019 • Sprejeto/Accepted 9-2019 Izvleček Tehnike modro-belega okraševanja tekstilij imajo kljub različni zgodovini, razvoju in vzorčnim učinkom skup- no lastnost: družba jih želi znova obuditi in vključiti v vsakdanje življenje na različnih področjih uporabe. Eden od načinov za njihovo implementacijo in prenos na mlajše generacije je načrtovanje medpredmetnih povezav v osnovnošolskem izobraževanju, ki temelji na raznolikosti teoretičnih osnov, veščin, materialov in postopkov, potrebnih za modro-belo okraševanje tekstilij. V članku so opisane in komentirane nekatere pre- proste tehnike modro-belega okraševanja tekstilij, ki so lahko temelj medpredmetnih povezav in so izvedlji- ve v okviru obveznih in izbirnih predmetov osnovnošolskega izobraževanja. Ključne besede: modro-bele tekstilije, tekstilne tehnike, medpredmetne povezave, osnovnošolsko izobraževanje Abstract Despite diff erent history, development and pattern eff ects, the techniques of blue and white textile decoration have a common feature – society namely wants to reawaken and integrate them into daily life in diff erent application fi elds. One way to implement and transfer them to younger generations is to design cross-curricular connections in elementary education, based on the diversity of theoretical backgrounds, skills, materials, and procedures re- quired for blue and white textile decorating. The paper describes and comments on some simple techniques of blue and white textile decoration that can form the basis of cross-curricular connections and are feasible within the ob- ligatory and elective subjects of elementary education. Keywords: blue-white textiles, textile techniques, cross-curricular connections, elementary education 1 Uvod katerimi je bilo mogoče spremeniti temeljno barvo tekstilij [3]. Eno pomembnejših barvil je še danes in- Človekova želja po estetskem preoblikovanju teksti- digo, ki tekstilije in oblačila obarva značilno modro. lij obstaja že tisočletja, v sodobnih preoblekah pa je Indigo je bil v preteklosti drago barvilo, saj ga je bilo okraševanje prisotno tudi danes. Okraševanje tek- treba uvažati z drugih celin. Zato so modro barvo stilij je stara umetniška dejavnost, ki se je razvila iz oblačil v večjem delu sveta začeli povezovati in isto- človekove potrebe po olepševanju [1]. vetiti z bogastvom, uglednim družbenim položajem Tekstilije in oblačila so bili sprva izdelani iz narav- in eleganco. Prav nasprotno je veljalo v Indiji, kjer so nih vlaken rastlinskega, živalskega ali mineralnega indigo zaradi izkušenj s pridobivanjem barvila pove- izvora [2]. Naravni viri so poleg pridelave in prede- zovali z nečistočo in nižjim položajem v družbi [4]. lave vlaken omogočili tudi uporabo prvih naravnih Spreminjanju temeljne barve tekstilij je sledilo okraše- barvil, ki so vsebovala različne barvne pigmente, s vanje z vzorci. Prvi zametki tiskanja tekstilij so nastali Korespondenčna avtorica/Corresponding author: Tekstilec, 2019, 62(Priloga 2), SI 78-SI 93 Prof. dr. Alenka Pavko Čuden E-pošta: [email protected] Modro-belo okraševanje tekstilij: potencial medpredmetnih SI 79 povezav v osnovni šoli pred približno 2500 leti na Kitajskem, tehnika tiska- Po predvidevanjih so indigo uporabljali že v neolitiku. nja z lesenimi modeli pa se je začela razvijati šele po- Dokazi o njegovi rabi v dolini Inda in Nila segajo v zneje, v tretjem stol. n. št. [5]. Modro-belo okraševa- tretje tisočletje pr. n. št., iz Kitajske pa v drugo tisočlet- nje tekstilij z ročnim tiskanjem, modrotiskom, se je v je pr. n. št. Prav tako so ga tisočletja uporab ljali Maji in Evropi razvilo v 17. stoletju in je cvetelo vse do raz- Azteki. Kako so ga uporabljali v Indiji, je leta 1293 prvi voja prvih tekstilnih tovarn in industrijskega tiskanja opisal Marko Polo. V Evropo so indigo že v srednjem blaga. Z razvojem tekstilne industrije so ročno mo- veku prinesli Benečani. Uvažali so ga iz Indije in zanj drotiskani vzorci postali simbol konservativnosti in plačevali visoke davke, z njim barvali blago in ga pro- ljudske tradicije ter so delno izgubili svojo priljublje- dajali po Evropi. V evropske dežele se je uvoz indiga nost [6]. V tem času se je iz fotografi je v tekstilstvo povečal leta 1498, ko je Vasco da Gama obplul Afriko prenesla tudi cianotipija, posebna tehnika, pri kateri in s tem odprl pomorsko pot do Indije. Zasenčil je se modro-belo vzorčenje doseže s pomočjo nanosa evropsko proizvod njo oblajsta ali siline, barvila iz ra- in delnega osvetljevanja svetlobno občutljivih spojin. stline Isatis tinctoria, ki prav tako vsebuje moder pig- Manjši obrtniki in umetniki jo obujajo ter uporablja- ment indigotin, vendar v precej manjši koncentraciji jo še danes. V 20. stoletju se je kot specializirana obrt [8−11]. Zato so v nekaterih državah, ki so pridobivale v Afriki razvila tehnika adire ‒ eleko, pri kateri vzorci barvilo iz siline, uvoz indiga leta 1598 prepovedali. Sto nastanejo z rezerviranjem in obarvanjem določenih let poz neje se je trgovanje z naravno pridobljenim in- mest na površini tekstilije. Za rezervo se uporablja digom izkazalo kot dobičkonosen posel, saj je bilo mo- tapiokina oz. mešana škrobna pasta. Podoben je ja- goče indigovce gojiti na velikih plantažah s pomočjo ponski postopek rezervnega tiska tsutsugaki, pri ka- poceni delovne sile [7]. Pridelava naravnega indiga je terem se uporablja riževa pasta. Po principu rezervi- bila zamudna in z njo ni bilo mogoče zadovoljiti po- ranja, tj. prevezovanja in stiskanja po vzorcu ter treb rastoče oblačilne proizvodnje. Do spremembe je obarvanja nerezerviranih površin se izvaja japonska prišlo leta 1883, ko je Adolf von Baeyer odkril kemij- tehnika prevezovanja šibori, ki izvira iz 8. stoletja, v sko strukturo indiga, ki jo je za razvoj sintetičnega pri- sodobnosti pa je znova postala zelo priljubljena. dobivanja barvila uporabil Karl Heumann [12]. V 19. Vse naštete tehnike modro-belega okraševanja teksti- stoletju se je barvilo indigo med drugim uporabljalo lij imajo kljub različni zgodovini, razvoju in vzorčnim za modrotisk; ta tehnika se je uporabljala tudi na Slo- učinkom skupno lastnost: družba jih želi obuditi in venskem ozemlju. Danes pa je indigo nepogrešljiv pri vključiti v vsakdanje življenje na različnih področjih barvanju svetovno razširjenega džinsa [13, 14]. uporabe. Z željo po njihovem nadaljnjem razvoju in Barvilo indigo (slika 1), tako naravno kot sintetično, prenosu na mlajše generacije so nastali različni pred- ni topno v vodi. Za pripravo barvalne kopeli ga je tre- logi za njihovo implementacijo. Eden teh je načrtova- ba reducirati. Tekstilije se z namakanjem v barvalni nje medpredmetnih povezav v osnovnošolskem izo- kopeli obarvajo zeleno, po izvlečenju iz kopeli pa pri- braževanju, ki temelji na raznolikosti teoretičnih de do nasprotnega procesa, oksidacije, pri kateri se vo- osnov, veščin, materialov in postopkov, potrebnih za dotopna oblika barvila spremeni v vodonetopno, bar- modro-belo okraševanje tekstilij. V članku so opisane va tekstilije pa postopoma iz zelene v značilno indigo nekatere preproste tehnike modro-belega okraševa- modro (slika 2). Prednost redukcijskih barvil, je ob- nja tekstilij, ki so lahko temelj medpredmetnih pove- stojnost proti različnim zunanjim dejavnikom, kate- zav in so izvedljive v okviru obveznih in izbirnih rim so izpostavljene tekstilije in oblačila med noše- predmetov osnovnošolskega izobraževanja. njem in uporabo [15], vendar je indigo glede barvnih obstojnosti izjema med redukcijskimi barvili, saj ima izredno slabe barvne obstojnosti na svetlobi, pri drg- 2 Modro-belo okraševanje tekstilij njenju, pranju in na klorova belilna sredstva. 2.1 Barvila Barvilo indigo, ki tekstilije obarva modro, so v pre- teklosti najpogosteje pridobivali s fermentacijo li- stov dveh različnih rastlin rodu indigovca. V Južni in Srednji Ameriki je prevladovala rastlinska vrsta Indigofera suff ructiosa, za azijski in indijski predel pa je bila značilna vrsta Indigofera tinctoria [7]. Slika 1: Kemijska struktura barvila indigo [16] Tekstilec, 2019, 62(Priloga 2), SI 78-SI 93 SI 80 Modro-belo okraševanje tekstilij: potencial medpredmetnih povezav v osnovni šoli predmetov ali šablon na tekstilno površino in prše- njem raztopine barvila (slika 3). Po sušenju je treba barvilo na obarvanih površinah utrditi, najpogoste- je toplotno, z likanjem [17, 18]. 2.2.2 Šibori Šibori je starodavna tehnika okraševanja tekstilij, pri kateri po barvanju nastanejo posebni vzorci ali Slika 2: Barvanje z indigom teksture. Zaradi barvnih prehodov vzorci niso plo- skovni, temveč delujejo prostorsko. Izraz šibori izvi- 2.2 Tehnike ra iz japonske besede šiboru, ki pomeni zvijati, stis- Eden od načinov okraševanja tekstilij je rezervira- kati, pritiskati. Tehnika ni značilna le za Japonsko; nje, to je zaščita površine tekstilije z mehanskimi ali podobne tekstilne tehnike, le drugače imenovane, kemičnimi sredstvi, ter poznejše namakanje v bar- uporabljajo tudi v Afriki, na Kitajskem, v Evropi, valni kopeli. Zaščitene površine se v nasprotju z ne- Indiji, Indoneziji, Koreji, Maleziji ter Severni in Juž- zaščitenimi ne obarvajo, zato na površini tekstilije ni Ameriki [9, 19, 20]. nastane vzorec.
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