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Issue No 14 – 2008 www.grapevine.is
SHIT HAPPENS! (Not) dealing with the aftermath of Chicken Street
+ Björk sets things straight Staðarskáli: Kiss it Goodbye Chris Paine And The Revenge Of The Electric Car
The Golden Greek Arrives YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL Introducing: The Beer Patrol AND ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS – INSIDE! 2 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 14—2008
TABLE OF CONTENTS EDITORIAL MASTHEAD
Iceland is a peace-loving country. Perhaps that The Reykjavík Grapevine is why it was so easy to sell the nation the idea Vesturgata 5, 101 Reykjavík Articles of a peacekeeping force, which in reality turned www.grapevine.is out to be a paramilitary organisation that was al- [email protected] Chickenshit happens! most strictly deployed on military-related mission www.myspace.com/reykjavikgrapevine 06 Looking back at the attack in Chicken Street in hostile environments. Humanitarian missions? Published by Fröken ehf. Not so much. Start Your Engines The ICRU has been a matter of much de- Editorial: 08 Iceland is going green and there’s no looking back. bate since it was first conceived in 2001. When +354 540 3600 / [email protected] members of the Unit were attacked and wounded Advertising: It’s Electric when guarding their misguided commander on a +354 540 3605 / [email protected] 08 Interview with Chris Paine, director of the film Who Killed the Electric Car personal errand to shop for carpets in a hostile en- Publisher: vironment, it fuelled much speculation as to what +354 540 3601 / [email protected] World Class is true to their name our role was in peacekeeping missions around the 10 Discovering the biggest luxury gym in Iceland world. Was it really our place, as an unarmed na- Publisher: tion, to supply NATO with paramilitary units? Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson More Monsters and Mythical Beings When a new Minister took over the Ministry [email protected] 10 Confront the Útburður for Foreign Affairs, she made it one of her first tasks Editor: on the job to announce that Icelandic peacekeep- Sveinn Birkir Björnsson / [email protected] Predator for President ing forces would from now one be strictly civilian. Assistant Editor: 12 Which action stars should run for office? This issue we taka look at the brief and somewhat Haukur S. Magnússon / [email protected] violent history of the Icelandic paramilitary. Contributing Writers: US Citizens: Here’s How You Vote We also check in with Björk and poke her Páll Hilmarsson / [email protected] 12 All you need to know about overseas voting a bit on her reasons for her recent statements re- Valur Gunnarsson / www.myspace.com/valurgunnarsson garding sexism in the music industry. We preview Ben H. Murray / [email protected] The Golden Greek the upcoming conference on sustainable driving, Editorial Interns: 14 Costa-Gavras elaborates on the staggering power of film talk to Academy Awards winner Costa-Gavras Marcus Walsh / [email protected] who will visit the Reykjavík International Film Fes- Florian Zühlke / [email protected] Icelandic tattoo diva tival and examine the increasing homogenisation Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson / [email protected] 34 Tattoo artist Jón Páll shares a few thoughts. of the Icelandic road shop. So, lots of cool stuff to Stevie Ward / [email protected] keep you entertained. James Crugnale / [email protected] Discover Langspil Design: 35 Traditional Icelandic instrument Jóhannes Kjartansson / www.joi.is Photographer: french sex symbol stuns reykjavik Gunnlaugur Arnar Sigurðsson (GAS) 36 Sebastian Tellier reviewed. [email protected] Marketing Director: Broads and Balloons Jón Trausti Sigurðarson / [email protected] 37 Mammút awakes of its exhaustive coma with dignity Sales Director: Aðalsteinn Jörundsson / [email protected] The Birth of the New Icelandic Product Distribution: 38 Designers make their mark on food Vigdís Jónsdóttir / [email protected] Proofreader: Sexism and Sloppy journalism Jim Rice 39 Björk shares a few well chosen words with the music press THE COVER Press releases: Waking Up in Wonderland [email protected] 40 The Grapevine visits the Electric Picnic Music Festival Submissions inquiries: [email protected] The traditional form does not appeal to me FREE Subscription inquiries: An interview with novelist Jón Kalman Stefánsson +354 540 3605 / [email protected] 41 I s s u e N o 1 4 – 2 0 0 8 www.grapevine.is General inquiries: [email protected]
Features The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from November through The Inevitability of Homogenisation April, and fortnightly from May til October. Nothing Staðarskáli makes way for yet another shrimp-dog stand in this magazine may be reproduced in whole or in 16 SHIT HAPPENS! (Not) dealing with the aftermath of Chicken Street part without the written permission of the publishers. Although the magazine has endeavoured to ensure that
+ B j ö r k sets things straight Staðarskáli: Kiss it Goodbye Chris Paine And The Revenge Of The Electric Car all information inside the magazine is correct, prices
The Golden Greek Arrives YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO LIFE, TRAVEL Introducing: The Beer Patrol AND ENTERTAINMENT IN ICELAND Destinations COMPLETE CITY LISTINGS – INSIDE! and details may be subject to change. The Reykjavík Grapevine is distributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, On the puffin trail in Vestmannaeyjar Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and at key loca- 42 Watch your step PHOTOGRAPHY tions along road #1, and all major tourist attractions GAS and tourist information centres in the country. NATIONAL MUSEUM OF ICELAND Model 44 Viking swords and more Nami You may not like it, but at least it's not sponsored. THANKS (No articles in the Reykjavík Grapevine are Witch Museum in Strandir Hotel Saga pay-for articles. The opinions expressed are the 44 Wicked witchcraft writers’ own, not the advertisers’).
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LETTERS Sour Grapes
Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to [email protected] or text +354 893 9589
Hi Grapevine, Walsh’s review of that Slugs show. We article was somewhat pessimistic over In Icelandic elections, what role do en- will make sure to stifle our reviewers’ at- the chances of such major even happen- dorsements play? I'm not talking about tempts at critical thought in the future. It ing in the city. When Athens hosted the party-endorsements, but endorsements was about damn time, too. 2004 Summer Olympic Games, Greece from unions or well-known individuals Now do us a favour: The next time you was one of the smallest countries in or clubs. It irritates me that the police read the Grapevine, make sure you aren’t population (est. 11 million) to host such union issues endorsements in my state a star-struck, self-righteous, cock-gob- an event. The International Olympic [here in the usa], and then candidate X bling groupie motherfucker. K? Committee seemed to prefer cities and says 'Police Endorsed.' I'd like the police countries several million in population to stay out of my elections, thank you. Hey, in order to secure the success and profit- Where can I find out how this gets done seems like these (excuse moi le mot) ability of such behemoth event. On the over there? touristic magazines always had to come contrary the Winter Olympic Games are Thanks, Gavin Sullivan with bad lay out, screeming out it was a smaller in scale (although in the last 10 AFS student in Iceland – 1982 free magazine. Happy to see your maga- years the organizing cities have tried to zine stands out between them, adding elaborate their Olympic festivities). Well Gavin, class to the content with a great typog- Maybe Reykjavik needs to rethink their Some unions have historical ties with raphy job. Can't wait to get my hands on strategy in bidding for an Olympic event. political parties and candidates are fre- one. Even if the organizing committee can quently voted for on the basis of those secure funds to host the summer games, ties, i.e. the workers union, but I don’t re- Hat tip to your designer(s). one major factor is the weather. Yes, call an incident where a union (especially Wim Reykjavik is beautiful with clean air to the police union) has come out to directly breath and less traffic than other major endorse a candidate or a party directly in Dear Wim, European capital cities. But the summer recent years. The ties are more historical Thank you for your comments on Gun- is still cold for most tourists standards. and social I’d think. But, political endorse- nar Þorvaldsson’s excellent design skills. Even at 15-20 degrees Celsius, it's still ments here in Iceland often come in the To our great regret, Gunnar has left the considered spring weather. form of financial contributions, and all Grapevine for greener pastures. We al- Which brings us to the Winter Olympics things considered, I’d rather have those ready miss him, and will certainly have suggestion. Reykjavik has the weather, upon the table. Or preferably, not at all. a rough time keeping up the impossibly mountains and snow to host the winter high standards he set. But we will try our games. The are less venues to accommo- Hello, best to honour his vision. date and any new construction to accom- Just a quick note from Townsville, which modate them can be used by Icelanders is on the coast of North Queensland Aus- Hullo, a lot more than the summer games. tralia, to say thank you for printing my Sindri here from Slugs. Marcus Walsh's My suggestion to the Icelandic govern- 'penfriend request' in your newspaper a article on our show blew my mind, and is ment and the city of Reykjavik is to make few months ago. It was marvellous of you the first and only piece of positive press a bid for the winter games. Their chances and the result is that I now correspond this band has ever received to my knowl- of seriously be considered are far greater by letter, the old fashioned way, with a edge. Thank you. than the summer games. There are less delightful Icelandic woman. Already we Although an exemplary bit of journalism athletes, officials, and visitors to accom- have learned a few things about each in many ways, we would like to point out modate, and would be far less expensive others' country so very, very far apart that the Canadian guy wasn't the only to organize. and so incredibly different. These across act that got an encore; we got one. Also, I hope Reykjavik does host a major ath- the globe exchanges are very uplifting. there was no water in the gun, only beer, letic event in the near future. I have faith Thanks again and best wishes to you and later on, I put red wine in it. Come in the city and its people that they will and everyone in your office. Cheerio. to think of it, that was during the encore; put forth any effort needed to ensure the maybe he missed it. event is a complete success. It will be the Denise Moore Finally, and also a bit unfairly, since he's best marketing promotion for a city and not expected to know this, but I don't country that are breathtaking and still Why, thank you Denise. write the music. I arrange it, but the other undiscovered by many tourist. guys write it. I will be the first volunteer to assist.....just Dear editor Well, that all. Thanks again, ask! The next time you send a journalist to a S. Eldon Slugs concert, make sure he knows the Best Regards, difference between the band and the Dear Sindri, Irene A. Wright Reykjavík lead singer. The next time you send a We suspected you’d like Marcus’ take Louisville, KY USA journalist to a Slugs concert make sure on your band of Slugs. As for the missed [email protected] he notices that other bands are playing, encore: it’s probably better not to intimi- Welcome Card and not just his own itching hemoroids. date your audience if you want it to stick Wow, Irene. You really think we could Oh yeah, by the way, the next time you around for the entire show. There are pull that off, huh? Well, you better pack up Enjoy the Thermal Pools, Museums, send a journalist to a Slugs concert make fragile young Englishmen out there, you your stuff and come on over right away: sure the journalist isn´t a self righteus know, ones that don’t take “confronta- the first volunteer’s job will most likely be Public Transport and discounts. pussy that´s affraid of getting sloshed by tion” lightly. that of convincing the rest of the world he beer and confuses piss with red wine. or she isn’t drugged or deranged. regards, Dear Reykjavik Grapevine: And thanks for your cool dissertation. I Syndri Freyr Steinsson, slugs groupie On you issue no.12 you featured an article say we go for it. Our address and phone regarding the possibilities of the city of number are on page 2 – give us a ring Dearest Sindri, Reykjavik and Iceland in general to host when you arrive. Thank you for your comments re: Marcus the 2024 Summer Olympic Games. The
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Article ARTICLE BY SVEINN BIRKIR BJÖRNSSON — illustration by HROTTI K
The Tartan Army Comes to Town by Páll Hilmarsson
The qualifying rounds for the football World Cup finals in 2010, to be held in South Africa, kicked off last week. Iceland plays in a group with Hol- land, Macedonia FYR, Norway and Scotland. All these teams rank way above the Icelandic team, which sits rather pitiable, in position number 107 in the FIFA world rankings. The first match saw Iceland visit Norway in Oslo and much to everyone's surprise the game ended in a 2:2 draw. Equally surprising was the 1:0 win by Macedonia over Scotland. These results laid the groundwork for an exciting match when the Scots visited Iceland on the 10th of September. The Scottish really needed a win if they were to have any chance of making it to the finals, and the draw against Norway fired up the Icelandic squad, who seemed to believe that maybe, just maybe, they could beat the Scots. The buildup to the game started 2 days earlier when the Scottish fans, dubbed the Tartan Army, arrived in Reykjavik wearing their tradi- tional kilts and their not so traditional clown wigs. Why is it that football fans feel that it's necessary Chickenshit Happens to dress like children when they go see a game? Never mind the kilts, that's somewhat cute and Ministry report reveals shortcomings by officials in the aftermath of the Chicken Street attack. quirky… but the wigs, the Viking helmets and the face paint? It's weird but mostly just stupid to see grown men parade around like that. The Tartan Army is considered the best- behaved group of national football supporters A report issued by a committee ap- Shop n’ Pop men upon return is described as indifferent and around the world. Back in the seventies things pointed by the Ministry for Foreign At 13:55, Six Icelandic peacekeepers rolled out in more attention was directed to influence what weren't quite like that. In 1977 in a bizarre act of Affairs finds serious faults with two vehicles, joined by an American co-worker they said in the media, rather than provide them defiance, frustration or bewilderment, the Scot- and a secretary from the Turkish embassy who with the appropriate help. Attitude towards family tish fans stormed Wembley stadium after a match the aftermath of a suicide bomb was invited to join them for his expertise in car- members is described as “random and clumsy.” with England and tore down the goalposts. A attack involving members of the pets and his previous relationship with the store No plan was in place in the event of such an at- pretty concise statement to both teams. But since Icelandic Crisis Response Unit. The owner. The group took standard security mea- tack. The men criticised their commander, Col. then the Tartan Army has cleaned up it's act and Grapevine takes a closer look. sures in front of the store. According to the report, Sigurðsson for his actions on site, and his “shit has won awards from FIFA for having a "friendly the store owner had failed to comprehend his part happens!” comment following the attack. The nature" as opposed to beating up children, "do- Iceland does not maintain an army; but since in making sure the stop was brief, possibly due to committee finds that this event has had consider- nating to charity" as opposed to stealing from said 2001, we have maintained the paramilitary Icelan- a bad phone connection. While the group waited able negative effects, both mentally and physical- children and most strangely: for "vocal support" dic Crisis Response Unit (ICRU), an expeditionary as the carpets where readied, Col. Sigurðsson and ly, and that the men are especially hurt by the fact as opposed to being silent football fans - the defi- peacekeeping force that is deployed on peace- his guest enjoyed Afghan hospitality. that their claims for damages have been met with nition of an oxymoron. keeping and humanitarian aid missions around Meanwhile, the men standing guard outside indifference. To this day, only one of the injured The Tartan Army, true to their nature, was the world, mostly in an effort to bolster Iceland’s expressed their concerns over the delay. An hour men has received any financial compensation. indeed not so silent on the streets of Reykjavík the participation in NATO. While the ICRU is suppos- later when the group was preparing to leave, the In short, the committee finds that all complaints two days leading up to the match. They paraded edly a civilian force, due to the nature of most attack came. Col. Sigurðsson, whose immediate by the members of the ICRU are warranted and around in their kilts, drawing attention wherever of their assignments all members receive basic response to the attack was to tell his men “Shit suggests that the Ministry for Foreign Affairs take they went – which most of the time was just the military training, equipment and rank from NATO, happens!”, described the events to the Icelandic every measure to rectify the situation. nearest pub. One member said in a drunken tele- mostly through the Norwegian armed forces. daily newspaper Morgunblaðið: “It all happened Of course, the larger question, what a para- vision interview that he liked to drink 20 beers a In 2003, the ICRU was deployed to Afghanistan to in less than 20 seconds. He threw two grenades military group from Iceland was doing their in the day, which made me wonder what kind of jobs participate in missions on behalf of the Interna- at them and as soon as they exploded a giant first place, remains unanswered. But the fact that these lads have at home – for 20 beers in a pub in tional Security Assistance Force (ISAF). On July cloud of smoke and dust appeared. He probably today, four years later, members of the ICRU are Reykjavík equals most honest men's pay. 1, 2004, the ICRU took over control of the Kabul ran into the smoke-cloud and up to them and then still fighting bureaucracy over financial compen- On match day most of the Army's men and International Airport from Germany under the exploded himself. This all happened in a matter of sation that they are lawfully entitled to shows only women were well sauced. True to their reputation stern leadership of Col. Hallgrímur Sigurðsson, seconds.” They never saw the assailant until after one thing. Here in Iceland, shit happens! of being friendly and contrary to the Icelanders, who had 1800 soldiers and peacekeepers under the attack. the Scottish seem to have fun when they drink and his command. This was our first notable military With one operational vehicle left, the group do not see it as their immediate goal to beat up venture since the Viking age. charged to the nearest hospital, twenty minutes the next unfortunate soul to cross their path. So After several uneventful months at the Ka- away, with a short stop at headquarters to drop off the Scots drank, shouted and sang all through the bul Airport, disaster struck on October 23, 2004, the secretary from the Turkish embassy. The Ice- game while the Icelanders cursed at their team when a suicide bomber attacked Icelandic peace- landic security force returned home soon, sport- when nothing went their way. The shirtless Scots keeping personnel on Chicken Street in Kabul’s ing brand new T-shirts with the group’s new and behind me had made up new lyrics to some of main shopping district. The attack left three dead: rather informal slogan emblazoned across their their old fighting songs – "we will deep fry all your the attacker, an American woman, and an 11-year chest: “Shit happens” puffins" was one line. All in all I wish the Tartan old Afghan girl. Three Icelandic servicemen sus- Army would visit more often. tained severe injuries to their body and face from The Aftermath And the match? We lost 1:2. But that was to flying shrapnel. All of them recovered, but they According to the report from the Ministry for be expected. now share five testicles. Foreign Affairs, everything indicates that the Ice- Under different circumstances, the events landic security force guarding Col. Hallgrímur surrounding the attack would best be described Sigurðsson maintained their composure under as comical. Despite ISAF instructions to avoid duress and acted in accordance with their train- leaving the airport unless there was an urgency ing and standard operating procedures. to do so, Col. Haraldur Sigurðsson decided to take However, the committee finds that the ac- his men shopping. tions of the Ministry for Foreign Affairs and the A trip was planned in advance to visit Chick- Icelandic government in the days after the attack Despite ISAF instructions to avoid en Street, where Col. Sigurðsson had learned of were anything but exemplary, and shaped by their an excellent carpet store from Turkish co-work- ineptitude to deal with such matters. The report leaving the airport unless there ers. After scouting the surrounding area, Ásgeir details several mistakes in the official handling of was an urgency to do so, Col. Ásgeirsson, in charge of security at the airport, the incident as described by the members of the reported that Chicken Street was both narrow and ICRU themselves. Haraldur Sigurðsson decided to busy, and could propose serious security threats. No independent investigation into the attack take his men shopping. He recommended that the stop be kept brief, and and the events leading up to it was launched. The the merchandise should be ready for delivery Ministry handled press relations poorly and made upon arrival. no attempts to correct obvious misstatements cir- culating in the media. The attitude towards the Free Iceland Road Atlas with every rental The best and easiest way to get to know the
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+354 522 44 00 • www.hertz.is Valid until 29/08/08 Hertz locations in Iceland: Keflavík Airport, Reykjavík, Ísafjörður, Akureyri, Höfn, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Vestmannaeyjar 8 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 14—2008 article INTERVIEW By Desiree Andrews Start Your Engines Iceland is going green and there’s no looking back.
By Desiree Andrews
The second conference of its kind, Driving Sustainability will bring together some of the most high level and powerful minds in science and technology from around the world. They’re meeting in Reykjavík to confront the serious and immediate international issues of depleting fossil fuels and the future of transportation. The three-day summit will offer seminars on groundbreaking tools that will jet us forward into the dawn of a green day, and you’re invited. Iceland is the ideal place to hold this summit, not only because it holds a treasure trove of renewable energy but, as managing partner Teitur those electric cars sure look complicated Þorkelsson says, “Icelanders are early adapters and we love technology.” If you think it’s going to be boring, think again. There will be high-tech innovations that would make James Bond jealous, speakers It’s Electric who are out of this world, and a glimpse into a sustainably bright tomorrow. The star-studded list Chris Paine talks about the future of energy alternatives for cars in Iceland and his new film. of attractions include an opening address from Iceland’s President, a look at plans for a solar powered plane that can fly around the globe, and a visit from the man behind the fastest electric Chris Paine is the director of the of a case study about why it’s so difficult to cre- their willingness to embrace either smaller cars or motorcycle on the planet. acclaimed 2006 film Who Killed ate change. Especially when you’re up against bigger cars that use electricity. entrenched interest like petroleum and the auto I’m interested to see what the balance is on hydro- the Electric Car, a documentary That Magnificent Man industry and consumer habits. It’s just difficult for gen. I’m very sceptical about hydrogen fuel cells. I and His Flying Machine about the decline of a technology people to say: “Oh am I going to start plugging my know there’s been a hydrogen push in Iceland and Bertrand Piccard, world famous astronaut and the that seems to be making a come- car in? Am I going to stop going the gas station? I want to sort of investigate what the reality is on first man to ever circumnavigate the world in a hot back in Iceland. He will be coming What does that mean?” These are difficult hurdles hydrogen versus batteries. I fear that the world has air balloon, is scheduled to be the first keynote to Reykjavik to speak at Driving and industry doesn’t want to change the way peo- been severely misled about hydrogen fuel cells for speaker. He will discuss Solar Impulse, a project ple make money so you’re threatening industry: “I cars and that this is a stalling strategy, a very ex- Sustainability, an international that is underway to build a plane that is propelled don’t want to give up my oil revenues,” or “don’t pensive stalling strategy, and batteries are ready by solar energy and can stay in the air for days at a conference about alternative let the utilities take over,” So, to go today for short trips. Is Ice- time while producing no pollution. energy sources in transportation. the movie was about why it’s so land buying the hydrogen hype In addition to screening his hit difficult to change. Chris Paine and if so who’s pushing it? Enter, The Killacycle film, he will also be speaking at Now that oil prices have gone Why is the push for hydro- If you think of dinky golf carts and powerless up so much even Americans “Who Killed the Electric gen a stalling strategy? What the conference and getting footage compacts when you think of electric vehicles, Bill are dialling into global warm- Car” premiered at Sundance is it stalling for? Dubé, creator of the world’s fastest electric motor for his upcoming documentary The ing. A huge renaissance is hap- Film Festival in 2006 and was I think there’s a lot of people in cycle, has a surprise for you. No one, from the Revenge of the Electric Car. We pening with electric drives for later distributed worldwide hydrogen that have very good speed junkies to the mechanically curious, will gave him a call in his Los Angeles cars. That’s why were calling by Sony Pictures Classic. intentions and it’s certainly a want to miss Bill’s design of high-performance studio to find out what we can the next film The Revenge of beautiful vision for transpor- electric vehicles. And while there has been no the Electric Car—the coming His other film credits include: tation in 100 years. But, the confirmation, the Killacycle itself might make expect. back from the dead, as it were. Faster, executive producer problem is there’s only so many special appearance on the only drag strip in Who killed the electric car 2003 dollars for alternative transpor- Iceland. What was your reaction when you were seemed to provoke a sense No Maps for These Ter- tation because new technology asked to come to Iceland to speak at Driving of outrage and foul play. Do ritories, executive producer is expensive and batteries can Invasion of the Electric Cars Sustainability? you think this film will be 2001 do it now. Initially, the oil com- Director of the blockbuster documentary Who I was psyched. You know, Iceland’s got a reputa- more optimistic or are you panies were pushing hydrogen Killed the Electric Car, Chris Paine, will share his tion for a lot of renewable energy, which is the finding things that are just He has also directed seg- because they want to control talent of taking titbits of news and turning them missing link on electric cars. I’ve always wanted as daunting that stand in the ments for the MTV television electricity as a fuel. Hydrogen into stories people actually care about. “We made to come to Iceland, so this was a big opportunity, way of moving forward on series BUZZ and online con- is basically electricity as a fuel that first movie a murder mystery and for this and then I saw the program and it looked like renewable energy in trans- tent for Apple Computer. so they get to keep playing the next film we’re going to try and make a monster they’d put together a tremendous group of Euro- portation? game. They get to ship the hy- movie. I’ll talk a little bit about keeping things fun pean, Icelandic and American expertise on these It’s much more optimistic. It’s In addition to his work in drogen around in their trucks, because if the environment and going green is a issues. It sounds like a great conference. about people saying to hell media, he is also an entrepre- but the problem is that it’s very drag, people can tune out.” What does it take to make alternative trans- with it we’re just going to do neur, environmentalist and inefficient and very energy in- portation work? it. We’ll do it with or without an activist. tensive way to do it. We don’t The three secret ingredients are battery technolo- industry. If industry is not go- need the fuel companies ship- WHEN gy, renewable electricity, motivated consumers— ing to get onboard we’ll do it He will be screening “Who ping hydrogen. We already have 18, 19, and 20 September well, I just said three and I’m already up to four— anyway. It’s about making a Killed the Electric Car” at the infrastructure for electricity and wise government leadership. Just looking at better future come hell or high Driving Sustainability Satur- and when we use batteries and WHERE the conference, those elements all seem to be in water and to do it smartly. We day 20, followed by a Q&A. existing electrical infrastruc- Hilton Reykjavík Nordica place. want to make sure that electric Check www.driving.is for ture, we don’t need the oil com- Suðurlandsbraut 2 Over 90% of Iceland’s electricity comes from transportation does not end time. panies. We can do it ourselves 108 Reykjavík renewable energy so it makes sense for the up building coal plants every- and at a big savings. If the oil country to go electric in terms of transporta- where, which really isn’t a lot companies have convinced Ice- Highlights tion. Do you think it makes as much sense for better than making gasoline. land that they want hydrogen, I Thursday 18, September the rest of the world? What do you hope to find when you come think that Iceland will lose more time in efficiently 9:05 Opening Address from Absolutely. I mean there’s no one transportation to Iceland/ Driving Sustainability when it getting off oil. Olafur Ragnar Grimsson solution for everything you need to do, but for comes to content for your film or the future It’s good that hydrogen is an option it just shouldn’t 9:50 Bertrand Piccard pure electric, for any place where you have 100 of renewable energy in general? be on the front burner. It should be on the back 14:00 Bill Dubé miles or less in a day of driving, which is really I want to look at your geothermal plant. I want burner. What should be on the front burner are Friday 19, September almost every urban area and every place where to talk to ordinarily folks, Icelanders, about their plug-in hybrids and plug-in electrics, in my view. 9:15 Ted Miller, Senior Manager the daily commute of people is 60 miles or less, attitude about their cars. I know a lot of people Do you think a small country like Iceland can at Ford Motor Company it’s just perfect. That is a gigantic percentage of drive Range Rovers and trucks and sort of manly- be a role model for the rest of the world? 12:15 Sven Thesen, Director of A Better Place transportation. men-cars that go from place to place and I’m very Of course, Iceland can definitely be a role model. Saturday 20, September In addition to coming to Iceland to speak at much interested in the projection that cars have. I think it already is and that’s why I’m looking for- Screening of Who Killed the Electric Car Driving Sustainability, you’re also coming to Men want tough cars because they radiate a lot ward to coming, to see how that role model plays followed by Q&A with Chris Paine film your sequel to Who Killed the Electric of power and women are attracted to that. I think out. For a full schedule check out www.driving.is Car? there’s a lot of primal stuff in cars. I’m interested We’re calling it a new film. The last film was sort in what the general population has to say about
10 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 14—2008 article article By Haukur S Magnússon — illustration by hugleikur dagsson
Cheap Reykjavík
By haukur s magnússon
Everyone knows Reykjavík isn’t a cheap city. There are however plenty of ways to shave some Krónur off your monthly purchases, and “Cheap Reykjavík” is where Grapevine attempts to pass some of them on to you, loyal reader. Please send your saving tips to [email protected].
Cheap Lunch As much as we hate admitting it, the good people of Subway often make a pretty mean sandwich – and they sometimes sell ‘em for cheap, too. Should you find yourself penniless and hungry nearby a Subway franchise, it is therefore always a good idea to check if their “Sub of the month” deal is any good (even if the bastards usually only grant their least appealing subs for the deal). It’s still pretty sweet to get a six-inch sub of the month for only 329 ISK; in fact it’s probably the cheapest choice of lunch available. Surely it will fill you up OK if you remember to instruct your sandwich technician to load on vegetables and condiments well past the point of reason.
Cheap Stuff A pair of Útburðir out on the prowl As anyone will tell you, no weekend visit to 101 Reykjavík is complete without a sojourn to Ko- laportið. Basically an indoor flea market, Kola- portið gathers bargain-hunters, penny pinchers and garage entrepreneurs in a decadent orgy of More Monsters and Mythical Beings: old vinyl LPs, second-hand clothes and furniture and pretty much anything else you can think of. Confront the Útburður Whether you need a tent, a bootleg Slayer T-shirt or a collection of random chotskies, you can be sure to find it at a reduced rate in Kolaportið. Kolaportið furthermore features a plethora Safe and legal abortions are a economic, domestic, temporal or spatial – and this and Icelandic folklore is abound with tales of their of food stands, and is a great place to purchase great idea. Just ask the Útburðir. is the main reason why abortion is an accepted misfortune. frozen or dried fish, foal meat and fresh potatoes. and legal, if regretful, alternative in most civilised Útburðir can generally be divided into two Their selection of local sweets is also impressive. “In our past and our stories, we’ve got this mas- parts of the world. camps: those who keep to their final resting places Finally, it is good to keep in mind that Kolaportið sive database of monsters and mythological While safe and legal abortion is a relatively and like scaring the pants off any passers-by, and is one of the only establishments in Reykjavík creatures. A lot of their stories are really fascinat- recent addition to our society, the problems that those who focus on haunting the persons respon- where incessant haggling is accepted. ing, and I think it’s a shame that they’re not used render them necessary are not. And this is where sible for their fate until they go mad. Some sources more in modern culture. Many people haven’t Útburðir come in. Back when giving a baby up for say that when in human form they can be identi- Free Wine, Beer and Hors D'oeuvres heard about them,” remarked master comic art- adoption wasn’t an option and untrained amateurs fied by the fact that they crawl using only one of Long-time Grapevine fan Mikkel sent the follow- ist Hugleikur Dagsson in a Grapevine-interview performed abortions at a great risk, parents-to-be their knees and elbows, and they are said to give ing tip on how he scores drinks in Reykjavík: this summer. The subject was his latest graphic often reverted to inhumane ways to rid themselves off a chilling howl when the mood strikes them. “One of the reasons why I like the Grapevine novel, Garðarshólmi, in which he depicts many of of unwanted pregnancies (keep in mind that bear- The most infamous Útburður tale – Móðir mín is its excellent listings section. It does a fine job the aforementioned creatures. This prompted the ing a child out of wedlock was often a punishable í kví kví – deals with a young female farm worker of keeping me informed of the city’s music and Grapevine – on a perpetual quest to educate the crime back then). In rural Iceland, the most com- whose dire circumstances forced her to abandon a cultural life, but more importantly lets me know masses – to draft Dagsson to illustrate a series of mon method for this was to carry the newborn out newborn to exposure. A while later she was asked where and when I can expect to score free drinks articles on these monsters of yore. For this edition, into the wilderness and leave it to its fate: i.e. to die to a dance, and was fretting to a co-worker about and snacks. Every weekend, you can find some we introduce the sad fate of Iceland’s unwanted of exposure in the unforgiving Icelandic climate. not having anything to wear. At that moment, her sort of opening in one of 101’s many galleries and children, the Útburðir. Legend has it that parents who employed Útburður was heard reciting a chilling poem from showrooms, and they often offer up impressive Even though the children are our future, and such methods of postpartum abortion were more underneath the rafters, promising to lend her a rag amounts of alcohol and other treats to lure in the life is a miracle, we as a species need to uphold often than not sealing their own fate in the pro- to dance in. The poor woman reportedly went in- public. In the past month alone, I’ve kept down constant procreation in order not to perish; bring- cess, as the child would inevitably come back as stantly mad, and never regained her sanity. my drinking tab and feasted on some of the finest ing a new child into this world isn’t always easy. a ghost and haunt them for the rest of their lives wines, crackers, beers, cheeses and vodka avail- There are many reasons why a parent may not be – eventually driving them past the brink of sanity. able. The art is often amusing, too.” able to welcome a baby into his or her life – be they Such ghosts are collectively referred to as Útburðir article By James Crugnale — PHOTO by GAS
and pedicures. “Even men are using this as they’re World Class becoming more conscious of their appearance,” Jonsdottir says. Nearby there is a massage therapy centre that has expertise in hot stone massages, is true to their Swedish massages and even chocolate massages! The saunas are breathtakingly detailed with a luxurious relaxation room. The spa inside could name only be described as a mini-Blue Lagoon. One room away is a bar that will offer you anything your heart desires. The silver-medal winning handball team Upon entering the doors to World Class at Laugar, worked out at the facility two weeks before head- the enormity of it all will immediately leave you ing to Beijing. “They can be considered a true spellbound. In your head, Also Sprach Zarathus- ‘World Class’ team,” Jonsdottir joked. Anyone who tra (theme from 2001: A Space Odyssey) plays and ever questioned Olympic chances should have then off into the distance you suddenly see hun- seen the World Class gym and there would’ve dreds of treadmillers running in unison. “This is been no doubts. only the first floor,” explains the co-owner, Disa Also included in the sprawling fitness em- Jonsdottir. porium is an elaborate kid’s gym called Shokk What a first floor it is (!) with 250 cardio ma- – aimed at an 8-15 demographic – with weights chines and 200 weight machines, this palace of and other equipment. “Kids these days need to do a workout studio is one of the largest in Europe. it,” Jonsdottir says. “They’re sitting behind a com- Constructed in 2004, the entire facility measures puter all day and their parents are driving them to up to 7,600 square meters (30,000 if you include school. They need specific training.” the pools) Before you go, you should make sure your There are 4–5,000 daily exercisers in the bank account can handle it as a day pass is an sprawling three-floor facility, which boasts 18,000 overwhelming $55 US dollars. Despite the costs, members in total (nearly 10% of the entire popula- when asked via email whether the weakened Ice- tion of the country). The features are seemingly land economy has decreased turnout, the owner endless with a smoothie bar, copious saunas, and answers a succinct, “No.” a top-of-the-line beauty salon replete with facials Tell us a story – Win an invitation to Iceland
The most popular spots for foreign tourists visiting Reykjavík are the Thermal Pools and Baths, which are amazing sources of wellness, good health and relaxation.
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www.bluelagoon.com 12 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 14—2008 article article BY Valur Gunnarsson
US Citizens: Here’s How You Vote by Desiree Andrews
If you’re like me, perhaps you’ve been busy scour- ing the political blogs, keeping up on the gossip female and the first black president, 2012 might about Bristol Palin’s baby daddy or meticulously give us the choice between the first Austrian and counting down the days until the US presidential the first alien President. And while some people election on November 4. On the other hand, if might understandably be wary of putting Preda- you are an expat living in Iceland, you might also tor in charge of nuclear weapons, one would do have been too busy learning salsa or hanging out well to remember that putting Austrians in charge in the geothermal pools to care what’s going on of Superpowers rarely bodes well. It was, in fact, across the pond. No matter the case, it’s time to Austrians that started both World Wars 1 and 2, stop procrastinating and get your head in the game by invading Serbia and Poland respectively. That‘s because the 2008 presidential election is less than one franchise we don‘t want Arnie to return to. two months away, and I bet you still haven’t applied for an absentee ballot. The Predator and gun control If you haven’t, fear not, because the US Em- But which party would Predator run for? Arnie is bassy is ready to help. There’s still time to get in firmly entrenched in the Republican Party and your request for a ballot and you don’t even have Jesse Ventura ran as an independent for Ross Per- to leave your house. Just check out www.usa.is and ot's Reform Party. Predator would want to appeal go to US citizen services. All of the important infor- to his fanbase, and the people who rooted for him mation is listed along with a link to register for your back in 1986 would want him to be opposed to state’s ballot. Arnie. One possibility would be for him to join the Greens, as he seems to be more at home in the jun- Important things to know: gle than other habitats. However, the Democratic • The US Embassy recommends applying for Party is the more obvious choice to get back at an absentee ballot within 30-45 days of the the Guvernator. The Democrats have often been election. accused of being soft on terrorism, but it wouldn‘t take more than their candidate presenting a few • If you’re not registered to vote in the States THE U.S. COULD CERTAINLY DO WORSE Taliban skulls with their backbones still attached you can get registered by going to www.usa. to silence such doubts. However, he might soon is. The state that you would have to register have problems with his own party. It would be with is the last state you lived in even if you hard for the Predator to come out in favour of gun currently have no ties there. control without the press having a field day with images from his gun toting youth. Also, the Preda- • If you’ve never lived in the US but are consid tor seems to be in favour of private initiative, as he ered a citizen, some states will let you register Predator for President always hunts alone. This might lead him to lower if you have a parent who was a resident. taxes. Attempts to reform Medicare might also be He may be an evil monster: at least he's upfront about it seen to be hypocritical by relatives of the people • Every state has its own deadline so check he has hospitalised. www.fvap.gov to see when that is. Predator vs. Aliens 2020 • If you register to vote but you don’t receive In retrospect it might seem obvi- Stallone, Schwarzenegger It seems all in all that the Predator is a true Repub- your ballot in time for the election you can fill ous, but at the time no one really and Aron Pálmi lican, and this would be the natural party for him. out a write-up ballot and send it in. suspected that two of the stars of It seems that the only guy to do worse out of Pred- At best, he could perhaps be VP to Arnie’s Prez. ator than Carl Weathers was the monster itself. The poor guy seems destined to be forever in Ar- • If you have questions, you can go to the US mid-eighties action flick Predator True, Predator returned in a sequel, Predator 2, nie’s shadow. Until, of course, his turn came up embassy. They have copies of voting forms would become US governors. Back but this was typecasting of the worst kind. And it in 2020. But knowing Predator’s luck, by that time there that they will help you fill out. You can then, most people thought of it as got worse. While there is a certain dignity to being Alien would be the Democratic nominee. Alien is, even mail them there. Or, you can call the a lightweight shoot ‘em up about beaten up by Arnold Schwarzenegger, in the sec- after all, a natural candidate for the left. He always voting line at +354 697 4449. big men with big guns running ond film he is bested by senior citizen Danny Glov- thinks about the interests of the group rather than er, with Mel Gibson nowhere in sight. And while the individual. Also, he would be firmly opposed The US Embassy also encourages US citizens living through the jungle looking for a Arnie went on to do the obligatory family friendly to guns, as this would give him a natural advan- in Iceland to register with the State department to monster to blow up rather than an comedy, poor Pred only returned to acting by re- tage. And he would want a good social system to receive important updates and information. introduction to politics. peating his signature role in Predator vs. Aliens 1 take care of the young until they are old enough and 2. This time, he doesn‘t even get to headline to leave the nest and attach themselves to other But this was during the Reagan era, when B-mov- any more, but has to share credits with the mon- people. Predator’s only response to such a strong ie actors ruled the world. Perhaps the subliminal ster from another franchise. His old foe Arnie was candidate would be to declare all Aliens illegal. message here was that Arnie was representing Ol- never reduced to the obvious battle of the 80‘s But this might bring about uncomfortable scrutiny lie North, and the monster a Central American so- buffs, something in the vein of Schwarzenegger into his own past. Only a firmly patriotic, all Amer- cialist. In any case, two of the pumped up muscle vs. Stallone, but Preds seems destined to forever ican VP might deflect this. Perhaps Carl Weathers men would go on to greater things. Jesse Ventura, duke it out with the other 80‘s monster (yes, I could be convinced to bring out the old Stars and formerly a wrestler, would become Governor of know Alien first came out in 1979). Speaking of Stripes boxer shorts, and go one more round with Minnesota. And Arnie, of course, is currently Gov- Stallone, Sly may have been prophetic when he socialist monsters after all. ernor of California. It seems that the only major went to the future in Demolition Man and found character in Predator not to get his own state was that Arnie had become president. However, it is poor Carl Weathers. A black guy just can’t catch highly unlikely that in the future anyone will rec- a break. Not only did he lose a hand in the movie ognise Wesley Snipes. Except, of course, for Aron itself, after having recently been beaten to death Pálmi. It seems all in all that the Pred- by another socialist monster in Rocky IV, but his post-Predator career highlight is spoofing himself No nukes for Austrians ator is a true Republican, and as a failed actor in the series Arrested Develop- So, it seems that with his acting career in a rut, this would be the natural party ment. Admittedly, Arrested is probably better than the only sensible option open to Predator would anything Arnie ever did. Still, you can‘t help but be to follow his colleagues into politics. Who for him. feel the poor guy was shafted. They could have at knows, he might even beat Arnie to the punch, least given him Wisconsin or something. for a change. While 2008 was the year people got to choose between the possibility of the first ;^gZ^hcZZYZYWni]ZcZlXdbZg L]dhZ`cZZhVgZ[gdoZccjbW0 BZViVcYXaZVca^cZcVbVccZZYh L]d]Vh[VgZYVXgdhhi]Z[Zaah#
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INTERVIEW By Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson
COSTA-GAVRAS ON THE SET
The Golden Greek Costa-Gavras elaborates about the staggering power of film
The Reykjavík International Film genuine family, but it was impossible for me to go kinds of movies aren’t that exciting. I think when I have for some time tried to find a Greek story Festival, RIFF, begins September 25 there. And as it turned out I am glad that I ended you fictionalize a real scenario you can make it that I’d want to film, but I haven’t found it yet. up in Paris in the beginning of the New-Age com- much more powerful and you can make the mes- But you could say I had worked there quite a lot, and this year it should be bigger motion. sage maybe more as a metaphorical approach to but for example I shot for my last film in three or than ever. The Greek director and And how was it making flicks in Paris during the dysfunctions of our society rather than simply four weeks in Greece. It wasn’t supposed to be in Oscar award winner Costa-Gavras the 60s? Could you describe the prevailing stating what went wrong at the isolated incidents Greece though; the setting was just rather ideal. will visit Icelanders and Grapevine atmosphere? presented in the movie. But believe me, one day I will make a movie over there. was given to opportunity to con- To me it was quite easy getting into the scene Your works often have a dark look and you there. Everyone was welcome at the time so it was could even say they are rather bleak. Is it What would you say were the highlights of verse with him before his arrival. considerably painless for young idealists to pro- your aim to make them more enlightening your career, and are you satisfied with it in duce their cinema debut. The old heroes realised than entertaining to the viewer? whole? Costa-Gavras is one of the biggest names in mod- the setting was constantly growing so they were Yes, why not? In my opinion entertainment isn’t all Satisfied? Well, I don’t know. My only regret is that ern cinema and is responsible for many of the most giving advice to youngsters as candy and the ac- about laughs and smiles but more about feeling I haven’t done more movies already. It takes too flabbergasting and controversial masterpieces of tors were into new and different projects so they something real. It can also be entertaining wit- much time to make a movie! But when I look over the last century. He was born in Greece and expe- found it merely exciting starring in a film made nessing a tragedy as well as watching Americans all my works I must say that I am proud of them all, rienced repressive situations as his father fought by an unknown enthusiast. The great advantage reciting lousy jokes. I mean, what is ‘entertaining?’ they are like my babies and I am not ashamed of with the left wing branch of the Greek resistance of making films in France at the time was that the When you go see a film you sit in the theatre for two any of them. It is difficult to point out a favourite during World War II. When he reached the age of state supported the industry quite a lot, which hours and are maybe completely taken by a story, but you tend to like the ones that are a success 18, his adventure began when he immigrated to must have opened a few doors. Paris was full of and it’s much more important that you believe the best. But you know, like the movie “Hanna K” his future home ground in Paris. life and you could find passionate artists at every what’s on the screen rather than you’re laughing which received the worst feedback of them all, I’m single café, enthralled with their own visions, try- the whole time. I make movies about war, beliefs; still proud of it. So tell me, you began studying literature but ing to mesmerize every by-passer with their, al- well, basically what it is being human. Now that you’re coming to Iceland it must be not cinema once you arrived in France, was leged, genius. When you had established a reputation in the appropriate to ask whether you have seen that for some idealistic reasons? Most of your films can undoubtedly be cat- film industry you moved over to Hollywood or heard anything about the Icelandic film I began studying literature at Sorbonne in Paris, egorized as political, so do you have a certain and started making movies in English. What scene? but I soon discovered the message you’d like present to caused this transition? Very, very little. But before I come over I plan to charm surrounding motion the world or do these contro- No, no, no! I didn’t move over to Hollywood, that is browse through some of the Icelandic films that pictures and subsequently Filmography versial affairs presented in only a common misunderstanding. I had over the have been produced. I’m actually very enthusias- that they actually had an insti- Un homme de trop (1967) your movies solely fascinate years been offered to direct a lot of studio mov- tic about coming over and you have a cinema and tution providing education fit Z (1969) you? ies over in LA but I always refused, I didn’t feel all, right? Well, at least I’m excited about getting for film producing. After that Missing (1982) I keep saying that everything that comfortable doing it. But then there was “Miss- to know Iceland, but I’ve never been there before. great revelation I immediately Hanna K (1983) goes on in one’s mind is political, ing;” a story which really fascinated me about Hopefully I will have the chance to travel around ceased my literature studies Madi City (1997) all men’s relations and feelings affairs that I was familiar with in Chile and I did the whole country. and emphasized completely Amen (2002) have a political connection. A lot all the shooting over there and later all the post- on my film career. It had for- of my movies take on happenings production was done in France. And it’s the same merly been my aim to eventu- Awards that really took place in the world with all my movies. I think it’s quite dangerous ally become a writer and im- Oscar for Missing and most of these affairs are for Europeans to go to Hollywood; they could get pact people in those manners screenplay (1983) extremely controversial, so my persuaded by the rotten industry. But it can’t be but I don’t know; I probably Bafta Award for Missing movies maybe are more political denied that Universal produced Missing so it was reckoned I had a better shot at Screenplay (1983) than most but in my opinion ev- non-Hollywood made but it was produced with effecting people through the Golden Berlin Bear for ery single film is political. When Hollywood money. screen. But of course all of it Music Box (1989) screenwriters, producers and di- Did you feel more noticed when you were A lot of my movies take on hap- was for idealistic reasons. rectors address thousands, and doing Universal films since you received an penings that really took place When you emigrated from sometimes-even millions, I look Oscar for example? Greece it is said that your father’s back- at it as they have great political responsibility. The Well, when they asked me to make a movie for in the world and most of these ground set back your opportunity to immi- power of film is staggering. them I said they would have to let me do it as I affairs are extremely contro- grate to the USA. Why did you want to move As you say you have adapted real life sce- wanted to, if they wanted to do it the American to America in particular? narios into movies quite a lot, have you ever way they should get an American to direct it. The versial, so my movies maybe are It is right that my father’s past prohibited me from deliberated going all the way: simply making relationship was very clear from the beginning. So more political than most but in moving to the USA, but he fought against the Ger- a documentary? I didn’t experience any notable difference at least my opinion every single film is mans on the Left Wing, with the Anti-Royalists. With the bulk of my movies it would have been during shooting because I had my regular crew, That turned out to have a negative effect on both tricky making a documentary for the events usual- but it was maybe more accessible than my previ- political. him and his children later on. The reason for my ly happened many years before I made them into ous works because of the English spoken in it. desire to move over to the USA was because I had a movie, but I’ve never been particularly fond of Have you ever wanted to work back on your several relatives over there and would have had a the documentary method. The elements of those native ground in Greece? ...withTaste a little bit e of spanish thrown in! There are over 70 courses on our Tapas menu so drop by and indulge in our excellent Ieland food in the greatest of atmosphere. Great Tapas from kr. 550.-
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Article BY Haukur S Magnússon — PHOTOs by Julia Staples The Inevitability of Homogenisation
The powers that be are turning glori- of the Staðarskáli house [starting in 1960 at 180 square ous old Staðarskáli into yet another metres, the rest-stop has since been added on relentlessly standard, boring N1 gas-mall. And they until it reached its currently gargantuan size].” “The original idea was to sell minor refreshments here, tore down Brú. Those fucks. coffee and cakes. But quickly after opening we realised that we would have to offer a wider selection of foodstuffs, The walls of truck stop-cum-gas station Staðarskáli are so we started offering up eggs, bacon and ham. As the plastered with thank-you notes and dedication shields summer passed, we started adding more and more items from the community it has served for the past five de- to the menu, including hamburgers.” cades. And that community stretches far beyond Staðar- It is often claimed that Staðarskáli was the first skáli’s rural Hrútafjörður location; in fact it is entirely Icelandic establishment to sell the now-popular dish of reasonable to assert that the establishment’s clientele “hamburger.” Jón Þór confirms: “I heard that they heard consists of Icelanders As A Whole, and most of their for- someone describe hamburgers in passing, and decided eign visitors to boot. Its route 1 location ensures that those to try their hand at it. The baker in [nearby village] Blön- travelling from Reykjavík to pretty much anywhere else in duós supposedly had the hardest time of making a round the country have as reason to stop there, and its friendly loaf of bread that you could fit a meatball in. Staðarskáli’s staff, welcoming atmosphere and quaint decorations en- hamburgers weren’t an instant hit, but once they got the sure that they feel happy to do so. truckers and bus-drivers hooked, it was a sell.” Glancing over the aforementioned thank-you notes, Bára verifies that the Blönduós baker often tells the one can see that for decade upon decade, women’s bas- story of his first ventures into hamburger making. “We just ketball teams, trucker’s unions and Rotary clubs alike have started grounding beef and making flattened balls out of sought refuge at Staðarskáli on their way to tournaments, it. We just put the meat dry in the bread, no sauce or any- tours and group outings. “One of the great things about thing. They were quite wholesome. I’ve never bought that Staðarskáli is that as a mom and pop establishment, they theory of “sweaty hamburgers”; I don’t know what that is. never had any problems bending the rules,” Jón Þór, a fel- There’s nothing unhealthy about hamburgers except for low patron tells the Grapevine as we pay our final respects the sauce. Meat is meat, lettuce is lettuce, bread is bread. to the place by ordering a pretty lacklustre hamburger. I don’t know why they’re called junk food. The only un- “They would never hesitate to serve us after closing time, healthy part of the meal is the mayo and the French fries,” and they would go that extra mile that corporations and she says and laughs heartily. their lackeys never do.” According to plan, “old” Staðarskáli will close down But of course, progress equals change, Iceland is on September 15; at which time the sterile new N1-brand- in a state of perpetual progress, and “old” Staðarskáli’s ed version will open for business. “It’ll feature the same demise is yet another indicator of the fact. We are build- menu, I hope. We will continue to operate the restaurant ing new roads; those roads will shave valuable kilometres at the new location for a while. A year, at least, but we sold off our trips. So it’s only natural that Staðarskáli needs to the place and only committed to working there for a year. I change locations, re-model and upgrade if it is to survive am 71 years old now, it isn’t even given that N1 will require in today’s harsh, competitive climates. The Grapevine is my services for much longer, I’ve been doing this for fifty not a particularly naïve journal, and it understands quite years. My daughter Vilborg and her husband run things well that not everything needs to always be the same at all now, and are doing a good job of it. But I am going to see times. However, not everything needs to be exactly like things off to a start, at least.” everything else either, so we feel justified in our lament. Also noteworthy is the fact that nearby rest stop Brúarskáli, that was just as legendary and just as quaint, has already been torn down as part of that same progress, and it is not scheduled to re-open.
Introducing: The Hamburger “They’ve been selling gas at this location since 1929,” 71-year-old Bára Guðmundsdóttir tells us. Bára founded Staðarskáli in 1960 along with her husband, Magnús Gís- lason, and his brother Eiríkur, and has been on duty there for the half a century that has since passed. “In 1951, they built a small shed alongside the pumps that sold candy and refreshments, and in 1960 we built the first section REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 14—2008 | 17
The Inevitability of Homogenisation Staðarskáli makes way for yet another shrimp-dog stand
of the Staðarskáli house [starting in 1960 at 180 square metres, the rest-stop has since been added on relentlessly until it reached its currently gargantuan size].” “The original idea was to sell minor refreshments here, coffee and cakes. But quickly after opening we realised that we would have to offer a wider selection of foodstuffs, The walls of truck stop-cum-gas station Staðarskáli are so we started offering up eggs, bacon and ham. As the plastered with thank-you notes and dedication shields summer passed, we started adding more and more items from the community it has served for the past five de- to the menu, including hamburgers.” cades. And that community stretches far beyond Staðar- It is often claimed that Staðarskáli was the first skáli’s rural Hrútafjörður location; in fact it is entirely Icelandic establishment to sell the now-popular dish of reasonable to assert that the establishment’s clientele “hamburger.” Jón Þór confirms: “I heard that they heard consists of Icelanders As A Whole, and most of their for- someone describe hamburgers in passing, and decided eign visitors to boot. Its route 1 location ensures that those to try their hand at it. The baker in [nearby village] Blön- travelling from Reykjavík to pretty much anywhere else in duós supposedly had the hardest time of making a round the country have as reason to stop there, and its friendly loaf of bread that you could fit a meatball in. Staðarskáli’s staff, welcoming atmosphere and quaint decorations en- hamburgers weren’t an instant hit, but once they got the sure that they feel happy to do so. truckers and bus-drivers hooked, it was a sell.” Glancing over the aforementioned thank-you notes, Bára verifies that the Blönduós baker often tells the one can see that for decade upon decade, women’s bas- story of his first ventures into hamburger making. “We just ketball teams, trucker’s unions and Rotary clubs alike have started grounding beef and making flattened balls out of sought refuge at Staðarskáli on their way to tournaments, it. We just put the meat dry in the bread, no sauce or any- tours and group outings. “One of the great things about thing. They were quite wholesome. I’ve never bought that Staðarskáli is that as a mom and pop establishment, they theory of “sweaty hamburgers”; I don’t know what that is. never had any problems bending the rules,” Jón Þór, a fel- There’s nothing unhealthy about hamburgers except for low patron tells the Grapevine as we pay our final respects the sauce. Meat is meat, lettuce is lettuce, bread is bread. to the place by ordering a pretty lacklustre hamburger. I don’t know why they’re called junk food. The only un- “They would never hesitate to serve us after closing time, healthy part of the meal is the mayo and the French fries,” and they would go that extra mile that corporations and she says and laughs heartily. their lackeys never do.” According to plan, “old” Staðarskáli will close down But of course, progress equals change, Iceland is on September 15; at which time the sterile new N1-brand- in a state of perpetual progress, and “old” Staðarskáli’s ed version will open for business. “It’ll feature the same demise is yet another indicator of the fact. We are build- menu, I hope. We will continue to operate the restaurant ing new roads; those roads will shave valuable kilometres at the new location for a while. A year, at least, but we sold off our trips. So it’s only natural that Staðarskáli needs to the place and only committed to working there for a year. I change locations, re-model and upgrade if it is to survive am 71 years old now, it isn’t even given that N1 will require in today’s harsh, competitive climates. The Grapevine is my services for much longer, I’ve been doing this for fifty not a particularly naïve journal, and it understands quite years. My daughter Vilborg and her husband run things well that not everything needs to always be the same at all now, and are doing a good job of it. But I am going to see times. However, not everything needs to be exactly like things off to a start, at least.” everything else either, so we feel justified in our lament. Also noteworthy is the fact that nearby rest stop Brúarskáli, that was just as legendary and just as quaint, Glancing over the aforementioned has already been torn down as part of that same progress, and it is not scheduled to re-open. thank-you notes, one can see that for decade upon decade, women’s basket- Introducing: The Hamburger “They’ve been selling gas at this location since 1929,” ball teams, trucker’s unions and Ro- 71-year-old Bára Guðmundsdóttir tells us. Bára founded tary clubs alike have sought refuge Staðarskáli in 1960 along with her husband, Magnús Gís- lason, and his brother Eiríkur, and has been on duty there at Staðarskáli on their way to tour- for the half a century that has since passed. “In 1951, they naments, tours and group outings. built a small shed alongside the pumps that sold candy and refreshments, and in 1960 we built the first section 18 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 14—2008 profile — PHOTO by GAS
The Diva of the Icelandic Tattoo Scene by Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson
For Jón Páll, the uncrowned king of the Icelandic tattoo industry, it all started about fifteen years ago when he was just as deeply entrenched in the 90s rock-scene as the next guy; boasting long greasy hair and rugged leather pants. Getting a tattoo was an obvious next step to complete the rock n’ roll im- age. But getting a tattoo in Iceland was not as easy then as it is now: you had to go overseas. When traveling in Greece, the summer before he started his studies at the Icelandic School of Arts and Crafts, Jón Páll decided to get his second tat- too, and when he met his future mentor Pavlos Ma- mantis there was no turning back. “I basically forced him to take me as an apprentice for stupendous amounts of money, but since I was a poor student I had to beg my parents for the com- plete sum. The next time I walked into his parlor I had at least 600 thousand ISK in travel checks, carefully stored in an envelope.” A few months later he returned to Iceland and opened his very own tattoo parlor, JP Tattoo, at the age of nineteen. Soon after his return he mentored his friend Fjölnir who co-managed the parlor. “Our lifestyle at that time was pretty vulgar, so sometimes I ran things solo, sometimes we were in it together and sometimes I didn’t show up for weeks.” But although he had initiated the Icelandic tattoo scene he soon moved over to Canada to continue his studies, leaving Fjöl- nir in charge of the parlor. “I have always considered myself an illustra- tor rather than a painter or anything alike and as soon I discovered the “Classic Animation” course they offered in Vancouver I realized it combined all my interests in art”. After finishing his degree he was hired to designing characters for the PS 1 game Goblins and his work there turned out to be so promising that he was offered to design all the characters for the first edition of the MMP game EVE Online for CCP Games. After three years of work at the CCP residence he moved on to the up and comers in the children’s entertainment indus- try, Lazy-Town, where he spent another three years designing their look. “I thought I’d never return to doing tattoos, I was bored sick of tribal patterns, Chinese symbols and children’s names, but the scene has complete- ly turned around in the last two years. The tattoos have become more thorough, bigger and more col- orful. So presently I do tattoos fulltime and I’m hav- ing the time of my life.” Recently Jón Páll was given an award for the best colour-tattoo at the respected Inkbash in Stockholm. and as you might wonder he is a bit picky on tattoos he makes. “I’m not saying that those tattoos I’m refusing to do aren’t chic or anything, it’s just that if I can be a diva and pick those out I’m interested in of course that’s what I’ll do.”
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Alone With a Drone »What to do Exploring the sound of the Langspil By MARCUS WALSH — photo by gas and when:
If you have ever had the pleasure of hearing the drone of a langspil, then you can count yourself very lucky. It looks like a Jenga box and is an oblong string instru- ment. Örn Magnússon recently crafted a langspil after discovering his passion for the instrument a few years back. “I built my first one with my father in law about a year ago” he explained. “Langspils were first made with driftwood from the beach, » www.grapevine.is but now they are made from birch or wood from the rowan tree in my garden” The langspil is unofficially recognised as the Icelandic National Instrument, but its popularity on the continent dates back to the time of the Renaissance, some- where between the fourteenth and seventeenth centuries. In France it is known as the Epinette Des Osges or in Germany as the Scheitholt. Sources confirm that the langspil variety arrived in Iceland in the eighteenth century. Upon its arrival, the langspil was used at rituals and was not seen as a concert instrument. “It was played in small rooms in houses and sometimes on farms” explains Magnússon. “It was also played at weddings and other gatherings of joy.” Upon hearing the tone, it is possible to imagine the langspil as part of a large, upbeat orchestral backing. Yet, played solo it has a sombre quality that is unlike any other instrument I have ever heard. Magnússon started to play the langspil two years ago and was drawn to it by its unassuming nature: “It is a very simple instrument. It has frets for one string and the other two are drone strings. Some have five but mine is a simple, old version,” EXPECT he explained. The Icelandic way of playing the instrument is with a bow, whereas in other cultures a plectrum is used, for example Joni Mitchell plucking the Ap- palachian Dulcimer variety in North America in her folk songs. Current players HANG include Diddi Fiðla, Chris Foster and Bára Grímsdóttir. Beyond the technical de- scription, Magnússon compares the sound to a human voice: “It gives a very lonely, OVERS... sweet sound. It has a special kind of pain, a little bit like a tender female sound. It has a melancholy tone and it goes straight to my heart.” The droning quality of the langspil evokes a unique resonance that is uncomplicated in conveying isolation and oneness in an elongated tone. “You could say that the drone is always there. What is the true meaning of the drone? The answer is that things never change, be THE BIGGEST CLUB IN it in life or some kind of eternity”. DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK. LIVE MUSIC EVERY WEEKEND. WWW.NASA.IS 20 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 14—2008
CD REVIEWS CONCERT REVIEW By Oddur Sturluson — PHOTO BY GAS
THE VERDICT This record shows the talent of this young band - but it also reveals its deficits.
listen & buy www.myspace.com/ wemadegod
We Made God As we sleep reviewed by Florian Zühlke
This record is preceded by its reputation. Before it was even released, British Kerrang selected “As we Sleep” as one of the 50 must-have al- bums in 2008. And the sound of the four young guys is actually catch- ing. While settled somewhere between the epic gravity of bands like ISIS and the fragility of Sigur Rós, We Made God manage to establish their own sound, which is primarily characterized by their wide, me- lodic guitars and Maggi’s eclectic vocals. I also like their powerful drums, though they sound a little artificial on this record. That “As we sleep” is not in my personal Top 50 list is owed to fact that the songs sometimes still sound slightly awkward, including small instrumental misplays. This does not destroy the album, which is quite good, and shows the promise of this young band. But for a perfect record We Made God will need some more grinding.
THE VERDICT Half an hour of really bad tempered sludgecore. listen & buy French Sex symbol sebastian tellier www.myspace.com/ celestinemusic Tellier: The French Eargasm
Celestine Having high expectations is an almost sure-fire they became bearable if not downright romantic This Home Will be Our Grave way to be let down and when I entered Rúbín after Tellier came on stage. Smoking and drinking WHO for the Sebastien Tellier concert my expectations on stage and telling jokes between songs with that Sebastian Tellier were sky-high. When I first heard his newest al- irresistible French accent of his, he had the crowd reviewed by Florian Zühlke bum, Sexuality, it awoke in me a strong, inexplica- hanging on to his every word. “Zee next song is WHERE ble urge to visit a shady café, find a scrumptious about love, ovcoorse, betwean mahn and… rho- Rúbín After having just released At the Borders of Arcadia in May, which young au-pair and invite her back to my house for bot”. Honestly, could this man be any cooler? Sho- generated all around good reviews, Reykjavík's Celestine already a grimey party for two (unfortunately for me Re- ving the microphone into his underwear and then WHEN serve the follow-up. Like the forerunner, they present sludgy Metal- ykjavík is sadly lacking in savoury young nannies licking it furiously, slowly unbuttoning his pants Thursday, August 28 core – in the vein of Coalesce, early Converge or ISIS – as hard-hitting who frequent dubious establishments waiting and letting the crow caress him. Under any other and heavy as being run over by the bus. What makes Celestine re- for bored young men to woo them). The album circumstances people would avoid middle-aged, THE VERDICT ally outstanding is their ability to intersperse subtle melodies, thus left me with a strong sense of excitement and bearded men caressing themselves in public. But Paris electro returns in keeping their monotonously pounding songs from getting boring. optimism for the upcoming concert. I was not let this was special. Magical even. This was Sébas- a sexy manner The same is true for the two voices that bring variety in the otherwise down. tien Tellier. quite monosonic (though perfectly fitting) singing. The only thing Warming up was Óttar Proppé, dj-ing some Sébastien and his band of über-hip Franks that keeps “This Home Will Become our Grave” behind its predeces- slow tunes. The atmosphere was very peculiar by played together beautifully and gave the crowd sor is the quite flat recording. Apart from that, this is a fiery and dis- Icelandic standards. People were rather orderly, exactly what they wanted. Calm yet danceable, turbing 30-minute trip into the dark. The perfect nihilistic soundtrack only moderately drunk and romance lay in the air grimey while at the same time sophisticated, Te- to wreck your place to: Who Cares Anyway? like a heavy smog over the room. I was surroun- llier is not just another Daft Punk wannabe but ded on all sides by couples who switched bet- rather a worthy heir, taking Parisian electro in a ween cradling each other and tongue wrestling. new, erotic direction. Although such nauseating displays of affection usually bring forth a pessimistic bitterness in me, Auður, Gljúfrasteinn. Photo: Halldór Laxness, 1955 © Halldór Laxness’ Family Laxness’ © Halldór 1955 Laxness, Halldór Photo: Gljúfrasteinn. Auður,
MEDIEVAL MANUSCRIPTS – EDDAS AND SAGAS SURTSEY – GENESIS THE LATE VIEW The ancient vellums on display Multimedia exhibition on a new volcanic island Halldór Laxness’ private photographs
EXHIBITIONS - GUIDED TOURS The Culture House – Þjóðmenningarhúsið Open daily between 11 am and 5 pm National Centre for Cultural Heritage Free guided tour of THE MEDIEVAL MANU SCRIPTS CAFETERIA - CULTURE SHOP Hverfi sgata 15 · 101 Reykjavík (City Centre) exhibition Mondays and Fridays at 3:30 pm. Tel: 545 1400 · www.thjodmenning.is CONCERT REVIEW By Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson — PHOTO BY CD REVIEWS
THE VERDICT Upbeat and entertaining
listen & buy www.emilianatorrini.com
Emiliana Torrini Me and Armini
reviewed by SVEINN BIRKIR BJÖRNSSON
Icelandic indie-folk singer Emiliana Torrini returns with her follow up to the 2005 success, Fisherman’s Woman. While this is a little more up-beat release, and more grounded in traditional pop rather than folk music, Emiliana’s voice and song writing talent remains her biggest strengh and pulls her through a rather entertaining al- bum that should prove to be just as popular as previous releases. The highlights are the atmospheric ‘Gun,’ which sees Torrini ex- plore darker subjects and moods than anything since ‘Gollum’s Song’ probably and Big Jumps, a skittish ditty that will make you glad you are awake. Certainly well worth your time.
THE VERDICT Energetic but repetitious Mammút in full swing listen & buy myspace.com/umtbs Broads and Balloons
The band Mammút have been in somewhat of got our two tickets and after such a challenging a coma since they won the Icelandic version of quarrel the wisest thing you can do is of course WHO Últra Mega Technobandið Stefán ‘Battle of the Bands’ and released their debut, having a beer. But when we sat down at the bar Mammút Circus which received mixed feedback four years ago. we hit another bump: the concert was apparently Vigilant radio-listeners noticed though a few “All-Ages” which of course prevented the sale of WHERE months back that their regretful coma had finally everything with the slightest amount of alcohol in Iðnó reviewed by SVEINN BIRKIR BJÖRNSSON reached an end with the immensely energetic hit it. So a bottle of Coke would have to do. “Svefnsýkt” which made even the best bred suits When we entered the concert hall it was WHEN Few bands have caused more stir in Iceland than the teen-phenome- rock their heads, slightly, to the catchy melody. hard to miss the flamboyant decorations but at Friday, September 5 non that is Ultra Mega Technoband Stefan. Since 2006, the band has After the promising single, perching at the the end of the dark room the lit stage was full of performed around the world on the strength of their live shows that top of every single radio chart for weeks, the full multi-coloured balloons and other equivalent THE VERDICT remain a circus of sorts. Now the have an album to their name, and it length, baring the clunky name “Karkari”, had garnishes that definitely set the mood for the co- Mammút awakes of its pretty much confirms what I’ve always felt at their live shows, that is, to be sweeping to fulfil the crowd’s great expec- ming show. Soon, Mammút appeared upon the exhaustive coma with this is an energetic and lively band but their synth-driven sound soon tations. And upon release the matriarchal band stage and although their set didn’t last long it dignity becomes really repetitive and monotonous and they could do with a threw a glamorous release concert in the old and was both powerful and passionate. The flatness few more ideas in the song writing department. While Circus is not noble hall at Iðnó. I must note that actually going surrounding their previous release had disappea- bad, and certainly drives home the energetic point, I have a feeling to the concert wasn’t exactly a walk in the park red completely and although their successful this would have worked a lot better as an EP. It would have made their for we hit a few obstacles on the way. To begin single “Svefnsýkt” is both catchy and amusing, lack of new ideas seem a little less obvious. with Mammút’s promoter and publisher found it it’s merely one amongst many carefully created completely unreasonable that Grapevine actually tunes that they presented vibrantly and their front had to send both a reporter and a photographer to and lead songbird Kata proved undeniably that the concert and was astonished that Grapevine’s she is a rising star. infrastructure was so uneconomical. Finally we
Luxury Surprise from Ásgeir Sandholt
Laugavegi 36 Tel: 551 3524 Open Mon. - Fri 7.30 - 18.15. Saturday 7.30 -17.30. Sunday 8.30-17.00. 22 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 14—2008 article article By Stevie Ward — photo by VIKTOR SVAN
The Beer Patrol
By BERGUR EBBI BENEDIKTSSON Designers: is there anything they can't improve? As a service to our readers, the Reykjavík Grape- vine has decided to keep you informed on the best beer price in town. Since beer prices have skyrock- eted recently, we have formed our own counter- initiative: The Beer Patrol™. We have dozens of The Birth of the New Icelandic Product people on the stakeout, wearing special uniforms, drinking at bars across the city and searching for Designers make their mark on food the best deals. To begin with we will give you the price of a normal draught 0,5 litre glass of lager in various bars in 101. As you can see the winner is Belly’s in Second year product design stu- fresh ‘organic’ produce is imported into Iceland should always be celebrated as such. The design Hafnarstræti where the beer is 350. The loser is the dents from the Icelandic Academy every day. Icelandic raw produce is of the highest for the dish, after its initial concept and recipe, 890 ISK-charging 101 Hótel. If you know of anything and freshest quality but despite what the banana evolves further to include aspects of presentation, cheaper or more expensive please be a part of the of the Arts have joined hands with farm people may tell you, Iceland struggles to find including table cloth design and accompanying Beer Patrol™ team and let us know. farmers around the country for new home-grown produce. the dish with the right potatoes, wine and cutlery- the ‘Farmers and Designers United’ "There has been to much insecurity in Ice- like hiring your own ‘food stylist’ to ensure the en- Prices are in ISK initiative. Last year, the Academy landic food production. A lot of producers have vironment fits the meal. received a grant to develop the been trying to imitate classical food products with These designers have created completely Belly's 350 strong identity instead of creating one for their new opportunities for Icelandic food and given Bar11 550entrepreneurial seven-week course own. Therefore Icelandic food products can´t of- the power back to the local farmer, who can now Nýlenduvöruverslun H&V 550 that teaches Food Design to Icelan- ten stand the comparison, it's never as the French market their products to the masses or in ‘limited Grand Rokk 600 dic farmers. From four student-led cheeses or the Parma ham. Farmers and Design- edition’. Icelandic food design is not only a boost 22 (formerly known as "Barinn") 650 products, two have been selected ers United aspires to challenge this head on, giving for them, but for tourism and Iceland as a whole. Celtic Cross 650 for official launching. the produce its own character and market brand, Prikið 650 creating a unique food product with a strong Ice- Dubliner 650 Iceland relies heavily on imported goods, but there landic identity" Rex 650is a great deal of opportunity to develop its own Icelandic raw produce is of the Geysir Bar/Bistro 695 products. Course teacher and member of Design Twenty Ways to Revolutionise Your highest and freshest quality but Kaffibarinn 700Company ‘Borðið,’ Guðfinna Mjöll Magnúsdóttir, Rhubarb Amsterdam 700teaches how much value you can give to a raw One of the products developed under the Farmers despite what the banana farm Apótek 700material if you develop it. “Iceland finds producing and Designers United initiative is a delicious Rhu- people may tell you, Iceland B5, Bankastræti 5 700 new products difficult, but we are taking our de- barb Caramel with its own brand name “Rabar- Café Cultura 700 sign knowledge and applying it to the food indus- bia.” The brand name is intended as a stamp of struggles to find new home- Café Paris 700 try.” From the food itself to packaging and name quality, allowing the farmer to develop more and grown produce. Dillon 700 branding, the course leaders work with raw food more products under their own name. This not Hressó 700producers, like sheep and potato farmers, to take only makes their produce more diverse, but also Sólon 700 their products to the next level. allows them the freedom to create and sell what- Thorvaldsen 700 ever they want. Product Launch – September 15 Vegamót 700A New Type of Fashion On another scale, a haggis-like torte pro- Óliver 750Like many innovations, food design is a concept duced at the highest farm in Iceland has been For Haggis Torte please visit Fjallakaffi Brons 750 that has taken off in the last few years both in Eu- developed to premiere exclusively in a restaurant Café at Möðrudalur á Fjöllum Café Victor 750 rope and the US. It is a welcome addition to the located close to where the produce is made. The 101 Hótel 890 vastly growing eco-centric culture. The organic dish is not a copied version of haggis, nor should Iceland Academy of Arts - www.lhi.is trend has been a boost for farmers worldwide and it be; it is a speciality of that Icelandic region and REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 14—2008 | 23 interview By Sveinn Birkir Björnsson — PHOTO BY GAS Sexism and Sloppy Journalism Björk has a few well chosen words for the music press
In the last issue of the Reykjavík Electronica 101 by Björk Grapevine we published an open letter from Björk, where she lam- In an attempt to clear up some of the basted the music press collectively perceived confusion surrounding the for being sexist and not doing their recording process in the electronic genre, Björk agreed to write us a short description homework. Her letter provoked of the role of everyone involved. “I hope some controversy, and generated a this will simplify things for most people,” lively Internet debate in the blo- she states. So here it is, straight from the gosphere on sexism in music and horse’s mouth: the inadequacy of the music press. As an editor of a magazine that Programmer covers music a great deal, and the Person who will program a computer to recipient of her letter, I decided to make patterns or sounds under instruc- sit down with her to gain further tions from producer, songwriter or ar- ranger. This does not include song writing, insight into some of the issues she arranging or production. addressed.
Let’s start with a short summary of Björk’s letter. Engineer Her main complaint was that for the last seven Person who places microphones and wires years, Valgeir Sigurðsson has been wrongly in or around instruments and records credited as a producer on her album Vespertine them. This person also operates the mix- (2001), and that while he worked as computer pro- ing desk. Not to be confused with mixing grammer and a recording engineer on the album, engineer which is something different. he was not a part of the production or the writing process for the album. She offered four possible explanations for this misconception: 1) “The pop Mixing engineer critics of this world have not totally yet worked This person will receive all the music out the difference between engineering, program- that has been made and recorded and is ming, writing and producing electronic music.” 2) responsible for all the sounds to sonically “It could be that this is some degree of sexism.” blend in the best possible way. 3) “I’ll admit that one thing could confuse things: people have to use their ears (sic!) and actually read the credit list to get this information. 4) “One Mastering engineer thing that could have kept this misunderstanding This person will take the final mix and alive is that neither me nor Valgeir Sigurðsson have make sure it will work in every format of bothered to correct it. But I am doing it now.” equipment it will eventually be played in. “For a long time I thought it would be child- like car stereos, clubs, headphones and ish to correct this misunderstanding,” Björk ex- I think sometimes the standard is really not good I described in the media as my attempt to make so on... plains. “Now it has persisted so long that I am go- enough. Something starts out as a rumour, and volcanic beats, Mark Bell did not do those beats, ing to stop making a fool of myself. Maybe I’ll be then that story circulates until it considered a but he has often been credited with making them, the one who gets burned for correcting this now, fact,” she says and adds that she sometimes won- and producing the whole album.” Arranger but maybe it means that on my next albums, the ders why the standard in magazines on other art “I know Goldfrapp has had the same prob- Person who does arrangements for acous- media will do their homework.” So, is the media to forms, visual arts, film and literature, seems to be lem. Everyone seems to think she just does vocals. tic instruments like strings, choirs, music blame? “It seems as if the music media does not higher than in the music press. She recently said that whenever she and (collabo- boxes, brass, orchestras and so on. Most have a tradition yet for interpreting how people Another possibility Björk has mentioned is rator) Will Gregory are interviewed together, she often written out in “classical” scores. in electronic music are credited. Everyone is just sexism; does she think that there is a conscious is asked about her dress while questions about called a producer. I can understand when people effort to push women down? “No, not at all. I don’t their equipment are directed at Gregory. Missy look at a traditional rock group, and they can see think anyone has any ill intentions. I mentioned Elliott, too whenever people write about their mu- Producer who is playing bass and who is playing drums, four possibilities and sexism was just one of them. sic, they always talk about Timbaland, too. I have Person who has creative musical vision so it might take some time for the music press to I was just coming trying to come up with expla- heard the same story from so many women, the how the song should be arranged/pro- learn the difference between who is doing what in nations. Sexism is a very square subject, it is still exact same thing. M.I.A., Peaches, Missy Elliott, grammed /recorded. Makes decisions electronic music,” she says. “I can understand that sort of a taboo, and you couldn’t really bring up a Joanna Newsom, they can’t believe it, but it has which instruments should be used, what my generation might have difficulties understand- more boring subject,” says Björk. “This happened happened to all of them. There is a reason people structure the song should have, what kind ing this, but I am surprised to learn that today’s to me with Mark Bell as well on Homogenic. Peo- don’t talk about this, as it might be the most bor- of performance is required from the musi- generation has the same problems. Electronic mu- ple believe he did everything on that album, when ing subject ever, but I am willing to take it upon cians and is the leader in the studio. sic is not new anymore. It is just as traditional as he only did a few beats. The beats that define that me if it means that in the future, journalists will do rock music.” album, the beats from Jóga, Bachelorette and their research.” Is this caused by sloppy journalism? “Hmm... Five Years for example, the distorted beats, which
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Service centres provide information about social services The department of welfare gives information and advice about social entitlements and provides support in cases of social or personal problems for registered residents in Reykjavik. For general information about operations in the City of Reykjavik and additional information on e.g. specific housing benefits, pre-school applications or financial aid, you should contact service centers in your own neighbourhood: • Vesturgarður, service centre for the residents of Vesturbaer district, Hjardarhagi 45-47, tel. 411-1700 Step into • Miðborg and Hlíðar, service centre for the residents of the city centre and the district of Hlidar, Skulagata 21, tel. 411-1600 The exhibition and • Laugardalur and Háaleiti, service centre for the residents of the districts of Laugardalur and museum shop are open Haaleiti, Sidumuli 39, tel. 411-1500 daily 10–17 • Breidholt, service centre for the residents of Breidholt, Alfabakki 12, tel. 411-1300 • Ábær and Grafarholt, service centre for the residents of the districts of Arbaer and Grafarholt, the Viking Age Aðalstræti 16 Baejarhals 1, tel. 411-1200 101 Reykjavík / Iceland • Miðgarður, service centre for the residents of Grafarvogur and Kjalarnes, Langarimi 21, Experience Viking-Age Reykjavík at the Multimedia techniques bring Reykjavík’s Phone +(354) 411 6370 tel. 411-1400 new Settlement Exhibition. The focus of the past to life, providing visitors with insights www.reykjavikmuseum.is Borgartún 10-12 exhibition is an excavated longhouse site which into how people lived in the Viking Age, and 105 Reykjavík dates from the 10th century ad. It includes what the Reykjavík environment looked like Tel: 411 9000 www.reykjavik.is relics of human habitation from about 871, the to the first settlers. oldest such site found in Iceland.
24 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 14—2008 destination By Steinunn Jakobsdóttir — photoS by Steve Ryan
the future is truly ours...... just how bright it looks is debateable Waking Up in Wonderland The Grapevine visits Electric Picnic Music Festival
After a two-hour drive from Dublin, a group of Elec- same important mission: to make the most of the and use eco-beer cups and bin their empties, the and Love Affair’s set, early Sunday afternoon. I have tric Picnicers, myself included, arrived at Stradbally three days and say goodbye to summer in a proper area was surprisingly clean. The two eco-friendly to say that the timing was a bit odd but that didn’t Hall in Laois County on Friday night. The country- anything-goes manner. days passed fast, and as much as we tried to hurry stop the band from winning the tired souls over nor side campsite was already packed but we managed The organisers’ aim is to cater to everyone’s between acts, there was always something that the crowd from going wild when party-hit ‘Blind’ to squeeze our tents into the tiny patch of grass left taste. Whether you’re looking for good music, hu- caught our eyes and urged us to stop, even though blasted from the speakers. The sexy Brazilians in just in time for Sigur Rós. We had just toasted to morous theatre performances, poetry readings, we had to sacrifice the music. You can’t really walk CSS who played later in the afternoon didn’t fail our brilliant camping skills when we could hear movie screenings or all-night parties, you will find past a sign reading ‘Get high on oxygen’ and not try to impress either, oozing danceable energy just as ‘Hoppípolla’ in the distance, so we hurried along it at Electric Picnic. I soon realized that it wasn’t the it or spot a fun-ride and not have a spin. Can you? if performing at a sweaty nightclub way past mid- with the stream of anticipated festival-goers to the international big-shots in the music department After lazily scouting the area we managed to night. Main Stage where the band headlined the opening that drew the friendly bunch to the field. The major- see Warlords of Pez perform. The space-creatures, For me, I have to say the highlight, musically, was night of Ireland’s Electric Picnic Festival this year ity were there for the whole mix and when such a dressed in some extravagant animal costumes, had to finally see Conor Oberst live on Sunday night. (August 29–31). diverse group of creative people put their heart and travelled from a galaxy far, far away just to please While Chromeo played the next tent and Sex Pis- A huge group had gathered in front of the soul into making something unique for attendants the large crowd gathered, and it was a total may- tols headlined the Main Stage, easy-going Bright venue for the last act of the night. They played a to enjoy, the cocktail just can’t go wrong. hem from the first scream, on-stage and off. I still Eyes fans looking for a more relaxed ending to the mix of old and new tunes, but it was the songs from When we got up on Saturday the campsite have troubles wrapping my mind around the whole weekend filled the Crawdaddy tent and Oberst sure their new more upbeat release ‘Með suð í eyrum was already well awake. Hungry festival-goers show. It was just too much craziness for my brain to didn’t betray his many admirers. Where Sigur Rós við spilum endalaust’ that got the crowd really mov- queued for coffee or falafels at the many appetiz- handle. had raised the bar high into the sky two nights be- ing. “They evoke so many emotions. They are just ing food stalls, stocked up on beer-supplies or The night only went uphill from there and fore, Oberst followed easily in their footsteps with amazing!” my friend said to me as they finished peeked inside the numerous tiny tents, all featuring when the last acts finished on Saturday night the his unique fragile voice and incredible charisma. ‘Gobbledigook’ and a very proud Icelander nod- some curious happenings inside. Saying that I was fun was only beginning. Concert-goers aching for There was still plenty more partying to go but his ded agreeing while watching them charm every amazed when walking around the area would be a some more partying moved the celebration to the set was such a perfect goodbye to an awesome fes- single soul in the audience. When listening to ‘Inní huge understatement. I was awestruck! The atmo- many indoor and outdoor bars around so there tival that I decided to join a tired but happy group mér syngur vitleysingur’ I just knew this would be sphere was unlike anything I’ve ever witnessed. was nothing left but to join the circus and dance! of Picnicers who dragged their tents back to the an unforgettable weekend. After enjoying a long The heart of the festival, the colourfully deco- Late into the night, I found myself at the Silent Dis- buses. mesmerizing set, a very satisfied group of old and rated Body and Soul village, was one giant art piece co, watching a bit shocked as a huge crowd with “This was some crazy weekend. I didn’t re- new Sigur Rós fans danced into the night. None of in itself, where in between concerts you could get wireless yellow headphones jumped around in a ally see that many concerts though,” my seatmate us could have prayed for a better beginning of the a massage, view sand-sculptors and installations, cramped tent while screaming their lungs out, with said to me as we drove back to Dublin. “It’s so festival. watch fire-eaters and circus performers or just no music playing. After putting on my headphones much more than about the music, you know,” he chill-out in the hammocks and chat about previ- there was nothing stopping me from behaving just added. That pretty much summed up the weekend, So Much More Than a Music Festival ous or forthcoming concerts. It was like being in a as lunatic as the others and although the DJ played a line I had heard repeatedly over the past three In its fifth year, the three-day outdoor music fiesta magical wonderland and all the costume-dressed some all-too-clichéd club-tunes it really didn’t mat- days. Electric Picnic is so much more than a music has grown in size and popularity and the bill has (or non-dressed) people stumbling around added ter. Taking off the headphones and watching the festival. It’s a weekend where music meets art in a at the same time become bigger and better. This a good dose of confusion to the whole experience. whole scenario was the best part though. Hilarious glorious attempt to celebrate life, love and friend- year, the line-up –featuring big names such as My The village boasted such a huge charisma that it to say the least. Something Reykjavík’s bar-owners ships and all the great bands are an extra bonus. Bloody Valentine, Wilco, The Roots, Duffy, Franz was almost impossible to leave. should definitely check out. Describing the whole event would be impossible, Ferdinand, Crystal Castles, Turin Brakes and The so with nothing left to say I strongly encourage you Sex Pistols among countless of intriguing smaller Not Such a Silent Disco Knowing Conor Oberst all to check out Electric Picnic next year and expe- acts – attracted around 35.000 music-fans, party- Picnicers were luckily blessed with good weather In desperate need of some fast recovery after last rience the madness yourselves. animals and families with small children. A very and thanks to environmental activists encouraging night’s dancing, coffee and a healthy smoothie diverse group of concertgoers that all shared the everyone to be concerned about the environment proved to be just enough fuel to enjoy Hercules
Now open
on Sundays! Tilveran Restaurant in the heart of Hafnar örður Fresh sh every day in a iendly atmosphere.
Open: Mondays-Saturdays 11:30-22:30 Sundays 16:00-22:30 Tilveran Restaurant – tel. (+354) 565-5250 – Linnetstíg 1, Hafnar örður REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 14—2008 | 25 interview By BERGUR EBBI BENEDIKTSSON — PHOTO BY VIKTOR SVAN
are about but rather how they are written. For ex- ample, a book that would take place a 1000 years ago could tell you much more about modern times than a book that deals with contemporary events.”
Astrologist turned Poet What about Jón Kalman himself? Is his life incor- porated in his work? “It is up to some level. Many of my stories take place in the countryside. I grew up in Reykjavík until I was 12 but I spent a lot of time in the countryside. As a teenager and young man I did various ordinary jobs and got to know the life I sometimes write about in my books.” So were you not always destined to become a writer? “No, not at all. As a teenager I wanted to be an astrologist after I saw documentary shows with Carl Sagan on television. I enrolled in school as a physics major but then I realised that it was the poetry behind the astrology that appealed to me. It is fascinating to listen to how the astrologists use words to explain the unknown parts of the universe,” says Jón Kal- man and we agree that extreme science can rep- resent beautiful poetry. “Scientists and artists have one thing in common and that is the doubt. Their main role is to expand boundaries.” As he sits in his chair by the desk with the lamp, Jón Kalman looks a little bit like a scientist. His subject is the human soul with all its unpredict- able longings and needs. His study is an experi- mental lab for literature. I decide to flee the scene before the scientist analyzes me with his profes- sional yet sympathetic way of digging out long for- gotten passions.
That Jón Kalman Stefánsson sure likes to read him some books About JÓN KALMAN Jón Kalman Stefánsson was born in Reyk- javík in 1963. His first published work, the poetry collection With a Gun Permit against “The Traditional Form Does not Appeal to me” the Eternity (Me› byssuleyfi á eilíf›ina), came out in 1988. He is known for his distinc- tive style where he blends together short tales Jón Kalman Stefánsson is a picture perfect novelist yet a sympathetic scientist. of ordinary people into a wholesome piece, mostly linked together with an invisible subtle thread that flirts with mysticism.
Jón Kalman Stefánsson won the Icelandic Literary ture of the novel and his style is both very mystical I do knowingly. I would rather say that this notion Main novels by Jón Kalman Stefánsson Prize for his novel Summer Light, and then Comes and yet casual. “My publisher has discussed with breathes through me. I guess I do it without mean- Ditches in Rain (Skur›ir í rigningu - 1996) the Night in 2005. He is the author of seven books me how to define my books, whether they should ing to.” The Summer behind the Hill (Sumari› of prose and three volumes of poetry. His books be called novels or short stories. I usually don’t At this stage of our discussion I ask if I’m put- bak vi› brekkuna -1997) - The Light on the are widely available in German, but translations mind what they are called,” says Jón Kalman. Still, ting him through hell by making him analyze his Mountains (Birtan á fjöllunum - 1999) - A Few to Danish, Swedish, Czech and French are forth- he understands the confusion. own work. He denies this, and says it’s normal. Still, Things about Giant Pines and Time (†mislegt coming from the prestigious Gallimard publishing we agree that it is probably not the author’s role um risafurur og tímann - 2001) - The Crackle company. My guess is that Jón Kalman’s novels A Vein Burst to define his prose. We move on to talk about the in the Stars (Snarki› í stjörnunum - 2003) - will be described as full of small-town mystique “The traditional form does not appeal to me but themes and settings of his work. Summer Light and then Comes the Night and dreamy mountain fog by the international there are many new exciting things happening. To (Sumarljós og svo kemur nóttin - 2005) - press, once they discover him. I’ll even bet that the name an example I can’t wait for new novels from Interested in ordinary people Heaven and Hell (Himnaríki og helvíti - 2007) phrase ‘the literary equivalent to Sigur Rós’ will be the Spanish author Javier Marías. It is like he dis- “I write about ordinary people. If I would write a tossed around. But this is a serious article. It’s about covers something new on each page. I tried writ- book about Sturlungaöld [age of clan-warfare literature so let’s put on a checked cardigan and be ing traditional novels but it ended with two scripts in medieval Iceland] I would not write about the quiet, shall we? in the can. Then something happened. It was like chieftains but about the ordinary people. I try to “I take influence from poetry. I I meet Jón Kalman in his study, which he something burst inside me, and it has been flowing find the casual perspective that we all understand built especially in the backyard of his home in Mos- out of a vein ever since”. so well,” he says. I think about Bruce Springsteen’s think poetry is the deepest form fellsbær. He is the picture perfect novelist. There is lyrics. I once heard them described as being about and it has elements that can no computer to be seen on his desk: only a mod- How would you describe your style? ordinary people in unordinary situations. est lamp, a pen and an empty piece of paper. The “I take influence from poetry. I think poetry is the “My first three books all took place in the move you like no other form walls are covered with bookshelves so stacked deepest form and it has elements that can move countryside, two mostly revolve around Reykjavík can with the possible exception with books that it almost looks like wallpaper. you like no other form can with the possible excep- and my latest one takes place a 100 years ago in a Despite giving the impression of being a traditional tion of music. I have tried to apply this in my books. fishing village and at sea. I just write about what of music.” novelist, Jón Kalman is neither traditional nor ordi- The way poetry can be illogical but still make comes to mind at any given time. Sometimes I nary. His books do not follow the traditional struc- sense. I must note though that this is not something think it doesn’t even matter that much what books
Living Museum by the Sea
Víkin Reykjavik Maritime Museum
Open daily from 11am to 5pm Closed Mondays Víkin Grandagarði 8 - 101 Reykjavík Tel: 517 9400 www.sjominjasafn.is 26 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 14—2008 destination — VESTMANNAEYJAR
do not make your next pass the last Icelandic roads are narrow REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 14—2008 | 27 “You haven't been in Iceland if you haven't been to us“ destination — VESTMANNAEYJAR Don’t miss it!
On the Puffin Trail
in Vestmannaeyjar Viking feasts every night by James Crugnale — Photo by GAS - live entertainment For booking and further information: Vestmannaeyjar (also known as the Westmann Islands to English-folk) is the ideal re- Tel.: +354 565-1213 mote milieu for an exotic off-the-mainland excursion. Replete with an ethereal terrain, www.vikingvillage.is [email protected] the island is a Mecca for Iceland’s famous quirky little auk birds known as puffins. A Strandgata 55 Hafnarfjordur striking off-the-beaten-path archipelago 7.4 km from the southern coast of Iceland; the largest and only inhabited of these islands is Heimaey.
After getting off the plane and heading for the “downtown” For those lightheaded around cliffs and other travellers curi- “They put on such a (Heimaey has a population of 4,036), the otherworld feeling ous about the natural exterior wall of the islands, the Vest- beautiful meal for us. of this place cannot be any starker. A quarter of this island- mannaeyjar boat tour is a charming adventure, as long as We had the most hamlet is draped in a hellish post-apocalyptic landscape. In you don’t fall out! (I almost did after a crashing wave nearly amazing freshest fish I've 1973, the island was caked in volcanic ash expulsed from knocked me overboard). ever had in my life. Mount Eldfell, swallowing up a large segment of the village. The little boat surprisingly roars, gliding over waves It was all so perfectly Astonishingly, only one person died from the disaster. More at an impressively sprightly pace around the rocky periph- cooked too...Beautiful!” than three decades later, houses still remain buried in the af- ery as a rabble of seagulls and puffins sashay adjacently. If Jamie Oliver’s Diary termath and are an amusing sight to behold. Besides Eldfell’s you’re lucky, you may spot some whales overboard (trivia vast volcanic residue, the rock formations throughout the note: Vestmannaeyjar was where the late Keiko of Free Willy island are especially breathtaking, especially ‘The Elephant’ fame used to live). Prepare to be soaked as the island boasts – a giant crevice shaped like a giant pachyderm head. the worst weather of the country with howling winds and tor- Nearby, on the edge of the island, somewhat campily, rential downpours. The drizzle though certainly adds to my is a statue dedicated to emigrant Icelandic Mormons who giddy enchantment of this soggy nautical journey. At the end travelled to the Promise Land of Utah. My compatriot is ir- of the trip, the captain of the tour boat unleashes a surprise reverently incredulous of the monument, noting its unusual musical tribute to jazzman Perez Prado in a dark cave that placement. Also in the vicinity are some remnants (beer cups must be witnessed for oneself to be believed. and party hats) from a few weeks earlier from Þjóðhátíð, one Overall, the experience is a wonderful excursion for of Iceland’s biggest festivals known famously as a youthful Iceland completists who love the complete raw outdoorsy celebration of debauchery. kick that this country can provide. When it comes to the island’s topography, geologists will have an igneous-rock field day here. But for others, the true excitement certainly comes from seeking out and track- Puffin facts ing down the little native puffins. In late summer, pufflings, also called pysjur, get lost and local rescue teams of kids and • There are 40 million puffins in adults come together to gather them and bring them back to the North Atlantic. their homes. Despite the overwhelming puffin kitsch that perme- • The Westman Islands has the ates Heimaey (including but not limited to trinkets, adver- largest puffin colony in the tisements, directional signs (!) and wall murals dedicated to world with between 5 to 10 the diminutive sea parrot) the little birds don’t wander the million puffins. streets. That would be TOO easy for the puffin-obsessed tour- ist paparazzi. Their habitats are among the insanely treacher- • Puffins are approximately 10 ous steep cliffs that line the island. While hunting for puffins inches (18 centimeters) tall here, TV chef Gordon Ramsay nearly died after careening off and weigh 500 grams. one of the island’s 85-metres high crags, tumbling into to the sea below. • Puffins lay only 1 egg per year. I vowed not to make the same mistake as Ramsay, al- though the vertigo from fear of a sharp 90° drop did get to • Puffins can fly up to 55 miles me. Attempting a peek on a peak requires grace, boots not (88 kilometers) an hour. sandals (my Crocs were barely keeping tread on the cliff!), probably a spotter and, for the extra-safety-obsessed, rope • Puffins typically hunt small for the most ambitious puffin hunters. Frighteningly feeble fish like herring or sand eels. 7>8N8A:G:CI6AH6C9G:E6>GH7>8N8A:G:CI6AH6C9G:E6>GH grassy overhangs feel as if they’re ready to collapse at any minute as you traverse the little birds’ world. You just need deZc/bdc"[g^-"&-$hVi&%"&) to channel the skills of the high-altitude sheep that wedge VaalZZ`ViAVj\VgYVajg8Vbe^c\h^iZ themselves up impossibly vertical ledges . During the puf- fin’s peak season (July to mid-August), the pointy rocks be- low hold thousands of the little dudes. Watch your step! =kZg[^h\ViV*%se]dcZ/**&*+*(
Licensing and and Free travel bookings LOOK for all services registration of travel- BOOK in Iceland related services Book hotel, guesthouse, The Icelandic Tourist Board issues licences to tour operators and travel agents, ...free travel services as well as issuing registration to booking services and information centres. whale watching, horse riding, all around Iceland Tour operators and travel agents are required to use a special logo approved glacier tours etc. by the Icelandic Tourist Board on all their advertisements and on their Internet website.
Blönduós Akureyri Booking services and information centres are entitled to use a Tourist Board logo on all their material. The logos below are recognised by the Secure Icelandic Tourist Board. Look and Book kiosks credit card are located inside payment the Information and printout List of licenced Tour Centres in these places: of booking Operators and Travel Egilsstaðir Agencies on: confirmation. visiticeland.com With more to come soon Borgarnes Hveragerði www.lookandbook.is 28 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 14—2008 destination
A Visit to the National Museum of Iceland by James Crugnale — Photo by GAS
For those who are interested in learning more about Iceland’s storied past, the National Mu- seum of Iceland (Þjóðminjasafn Íslands), located at Suðurgata 41, offers a unique treasure-trove of historic exhibits. The museum’s permanent showcase, The Making of a Nation, is an elaborate multimedia- enriched expedition into the country’s olden times, beginning from the origin of settlement to today. Walking through the darkly mood-lit space, you will learn how the ways of life in Iceland evolved from century to century; for example, the nation’s transition from paganism to Christianity. The Making of a Nation presents visitors with over 2,000 distinctive objects to observe. Some of the most interesting features of the exhibit include authentic Viking weapons (swords and shields), traditional religious artefacts and an actual old school vessel, Ingjaldur, which helped lay the smack down on British criminals fishing illegally in 1899. Each of the items on display typically fea- tures handy touch-screens that will help narrate their historical context. The museum enthusiastically reaches out to kids with many hands-on exhibits, including some awesome, feel-able chain mail and a clever matching-switchboard that invites one to match up historic equivalents to contemporary things (i.e. olden-day footwear made of bones matched up to some modern-day kicks) Also included at the museum are some note- worthy new acquisitions, including, charmingly, King Frederick the VIII of Denmark’s portable toi- let, that he…er…used when he came to visit the country in 1907. In addition, a brand new feature near the entrance is Kristín Ragna Gunnarsdóttir’s imaginatively vivid, kooky illustrations from Ör- lög gudanna (“Destiny of the Gods”), a children’s book that creatively outlines Norse mythology. Before departing, the Museum offers an en- ticing Kaffitar downstairs with mouth-wateringly delicious-looking cheesecake that will hit the spot after a long visit.
GRÍMSEY
ÍSAFJÖRÐUR Air Iceland ÞÓRSHÖFN
VOPNAFJÖRÐUR AKUREYRI www.airiceland.is destinations EGILSSTAÐIR
CONSTABLE POINT Greenland KULUSUK Greenland NUUK Greenland Fly and discover NARSARSSUAQ Greenland REYKJAVÍK FAROE ISLANDS
Get your action-packed day tour brochure Air Iceland - Domestic flights / tel. 570 3030 WESTMAN ISLANDS SIA.IS FLU 43442 08.2008 at hotels, airports or any travel agent. ÍSLENSKA REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 14—2008 | 29
destination
Witch Museum
by Stevie Ward
The Strandir area in the West Fjords has always been notorious for witchcraft. The Strandagaldur Museum of Sorcery and Witchcraft in Holmavik features an audio tour from museum manager Sig- urdur Atlason, exploring the real story behind Ice- land’s history with the occult. The museum exhibits the legacy of the peo- ple of Strandir, and its findings are mostly from records kept by villagers in the 17th century from 1654 to 1680. The number of Icelanders burned for witchcraft is still being debated; however, although most of the accused confessed to some occult knowledge or possession of runes, some confessed to nothing, claiming their innocence till death. On record, 21 burned and only one woman among them. The witches of Strandir excelled at raising the dead. When the ghosts rose, they would be used as minions by those who raised them. These witches also used spells for catching thieves, stealing milk and changing the weather — the tools they used are all on display. Exhibited are healing spells that were written on animal skins and wrapped around the body. In addition to two Icelandic spell books, the museum holds the recipe for ‘Fireballs’ that were cast in the late 17th century to sink ships and which ceased commerce to the area, as well as exhibits of Necro- pants, charms to win at wrestling, a weather staff and an ‘invisible boy’. The showpiece of the exhibit is an authentic bloodbowl, used in 1600 to commu- nicate with gods. More enigmatic then the relics themselves are the accusers: the genealogy of the upper-class is heavily documented and the museum’s historical merits stem from records from the clergy and one family of sheriffs (6 sons and 6 daughters). This fam- ily was linked to the witch-hunting either through being a judge, an accuser or an accused. Many of them had studied in Denmark and Germany before attempting to bring the witch-hunt craze to Iceland to rid their people of ‘undesirables’. Bring the kids.
Witch Museum in Strandir Höfðagata 8, 510 Hólmavík Tel: 451 3525
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Kristín Svava Tómasdóttir studies histo- Þotuhreiður ry at the University of Iceland and works 1 This one is just beautiful, like a bird coming from an egg. And it is on this very at the Þjóðarbókhlaðan, the University appropriate place at Keflavík airport, where it represents the wish of every Library. But, first and foremost, she is a islander to get away. I can really feel it, when I look at þotuhreiður. young poet who is leading the way into a bright future for contemporary Icelan- Stúlka dic poetry. She has been a member of 2 This one is the very small statue of a girl, sitting on her knees in a flowerbed the local poetry scene and Reykjavík's in front of my school in Reykjavík. I like it, because it is an interactive statue publishing circle Nýhil for years, and due to its height. When we were around she was always holding cigarettes, has participated in in Nýhil's annual In- flowers, or Coke-bottles or beer. ternational Poetry Festival since the be- ginning. Kristín had her breakthrough The giant phone in Hafnarfjörður when a publisher approached her after 3 When I was a kid and on a trip to Hafnarfjörður, I saw a giant phone, which a reading at the festival. This is how she I found hilarious. I do not know what its called, who had made it or even finally came to publish her first collec- whether it is still there, but I still keep a photo of me sitting on it. tion of lyrical works in 2007, Blóðgælur, a self-acclaimed “Best-of” collection. Óþekkti embættismaðurinn “For me the book was not that huge a 4 “The Unknown Official“ is a great statue! It is humorous and sarcastic. It step. I have been doing this for many represents the unknown warrior, respectively as an official, because there years, and I never really had the urge to are no warriors any more. There must be many officials walking by it every publish a book myself. But perhaps that morning because it is so close to the parliament. is also a flaw of mine, sometimes I am not very ambitious.” Berlínarbjörninn Kristín Svava 5 The “Berlin Bear” is in front of the German embassy, which is also close to my old school. It has the distance to Berlin in kilometers written on it. I like the thought of walking around in Reykjavík and thinking of Berlin. top JOBS FOR LÁRUS JÓHANNESSON
Lárus Jóhannesson was born in Reyk- Working at 12 Tónar javík. He has enjoyed a diverse and 1 This job is great, because it is so diverse: You have to do everything from clean- fulfilling career which has seen him ing the toilet to being part of great music happening. On the label side of my job I involved in the many different fields. work with many artists from Punk to Classic, which is very interesting. He is a founding partner of the record shop 12 Tónar in the center of Reyk- Being a contractor javík, together with his friend Jóhannes 2 When I was studying and for a short time after that I was working as a foreman in Ágústsson in 1998. Five years later they the construction business. In the summer time it is fantastic to work outside and expanded the business releasing the you start early, so it is very healthy. But when you grow older, it gets harder. album “Krákan,” by popular Faroese folk singer Eivør Pálsdóttir and thereby Being a correspondent for Morgunblaðið founded the record label 12 Tónar Re- 3 In the 90s I was a correspondent in Russia for Morgunblaðið newspaper. It was cords. This label has become one of very interesting to be there. I got to travel the country a lot on a journalist visa. My the most important local independent love-hate relationship for this country lasts until today, so this was a cool job. record labels not least due to their musical variety from Classic to Punk. Chess columnist for Þjóðviljinn Today, 12 Tónar is an international en- 4 When I was 19 I did a weekly chess column for Þjóðviljinn newspaper. I took over terprise with worldwide releases, with from the Icelandic chess grandmaster Helgi Ólafson, who was the best chess offices in Reykjavík and Copenhagen. columnist in the country. People would buy the paper just to read his column! A recent addition to the enterprise is But I think this stopped when I started. a webstore where you can buy their music in digital form from around the Chess Trainer globe. We asked Lárus to name five of I started to play chess seriously when I was a teenager and even travelled abroad Lárus Jóhannesson his favorite jobs through the years. 5 for tournaments. Later I started to teach chess at schools and together with my partner Jónas, we held special sessions for really gifted players. Some of them now are the strongest players in Iceland. top Places to dine a Journalist
Anna Hildur Hildibrandsdóttir is man- Þrír Frakkar aging director of the increasingly sig- 1 Perfect for whale meat, puffin and shark experience, which generates plenty nificant Iceland Music Export office, of discussion topics for an evening out with journalists. The very tiny, very IMX, founded in 2007. On a shoestring charming Þrír Frakkar is also an excellent seafood restaurant whose chefs budget, Hildibrandsdóttir has managed have character and individualism that makes them unique. to create a vibrant and effective export agency that is the envy of others, and a Hornið positive force in the advent and promo- 2 As I am most likely to be rushing off with music journalists to a gig, an early tion of Icelandic music abroad. Come meal at Hornið never fails. This modest restaurant, which features an inter- October, IMX is holding an interna- esting blend of Icelandic and Italian cuisine, hasn’t changed for 25 years. tional conference dealing with new and exciting ways of mediating culture Askur that features high profile panelists such 3 Another great one to visit if you are having a quick but good meal before a as Hype Machine’s Anthony Volodkin, gig in Laugardalshöllin. One of these really old style Icelandic restaurants, Pitchforkmedia’s Amy Phillips and one and possibly the first one I experienced as a kid. Generous portions, impres- of the brains behind Radiohead’s re- sive buffets and moderate prices. cent “In Rainbows” giveaway, Jane Dy- ball. Due to her job, Hildibrandsdóttir Panorama often escorts foreign members of the 4 My latest discovery is this penthouse style restaurant with the most breath- press around Reykjavík. Here are her taking view you can find in Reykjavik. Overlooking the harbour, Esjan and picks for dining a journalist in Reyk- the new music house, you can rest your vocal cords whilst people take it all javík: in. The food and service is good.
Domo Anna Hildur 5 Snorri is not only my favorite Icelandic artist but also my dearest friend. He is the sanest person that I know. When I’m feeling down about something, what ever it is, Snorri will be the first one to hear about the problem. Books, Music, Souvenirs & lots more.
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I’m actually very enthusiastic about coming over and you have a cinema and all, right? Well, at least I’m excited… Filmmaker Costa-Gavras is attending the Reykjavík International Film Festival. Page 14
Also, the Predator seems to be in favour of private initiative, as he always hunts alone. This might lead him to lower taxes. Attempts to reform Medi- care might also be seen to be hypocritical by relatives of the people he has hospitalised. Valur Gunnarsson deliberates the capitalistic values of the possible President candidate Predator. Page 12
Calm yet danceable, grimey while at the same time so- phisticated, Tellier is not just another Daft Punk wannabe but rather a worthy heir, tak- ing Parisian electro in a new, erotic direction. Oddur Sturluson was flabbergasted with Sebastian Tellier’s untamed performance. Page 36
If you are an expat living in Iceland, you might also have been too busy learning salsa or hanging out in the geothermal pools to care what’s going on across the pond. Grapevine’s own expat instructs her fellows how to vote overseas. Page 12
“He’s what you’d call a pio- neer; the sport wasn’t so big back then. I was inspired by him. When I started train- ing out on the east coast, I watched him on TV, I said to my friends, one day, like Jón Páll, I’ll be there.” Magnús Ver depicts his passion for his ulti- mate idol, World’s Strongest Man Jón Páll Sigmarsson Page 39
Three Icelandic servicemen sustained severe injuries to their body and face from flying sharpnel. All of them recovered, but they now share five testicles. Remembering Chicken Street Page 6 Music, Art, Films and Events Listings + Eating, Drinking and Shopping + Map + Rósenberg Mobbed Up · Pleinairism · Return of the 90’s Your essential guide to life, travel and entertainment in Iceland. Issue 14 2008 www.grapevine.is What: Photography Exhibition at Lost Horse Gallery (B5) B2 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2008 B3 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2008 Listings Listings
If you would like to be included Nasa Oliver Music in the Grapevine listings, free of 23:59 Skítamórall, the greatest 22:00 Kenya in Concert charge, contact the Grapevine by live music attraction of the 90’s in Prikið Stoner Rock legend Brant Bjork email at [email protected]. Iceland, live in concert. 22:00 DJ Gauti Prikið Q-Bar Our quality... comes to Iceland 21:00 Naked Ape party. DJ’s Jack DJ Manny Schidt & Moonshine Rósenberg Brant Bjork & the Bros., one of the most cymbals and are said by music critic Where: Music & Q-Bar 16:00 Troubadours Trikkstur influential and leading figures in the Colin Hunter to play instrumentally- Græni Hatturinn 23:00 DJ Shaft 20:00 Local legend Mike Pollock in Releases Rósenberg Concert, then Troubadour Siggi Sig. stoner rock and desert rock genres, intense “laid-back, druggy jams that Hafnarstræti 96 Entertainment 22:00 Band Fánar in concert Sólon are coming to Iceland! Hailing from make you feel kind of like The Dude Akureyri Sólon 22:00 Troubadour on 2nd floor Palm Springs, California, BBB is mak- from The Big Lebowski.” Brant Bjork Café Amsterdam FRIDAY Sept 12 23:00 Downstairs: Party. Upstairs: Vegamót ing the country the first stop on their & the Bros. describe their music as Hafnarstræti 5 Dancing DJ Símon Scandinavian tour swing promoting “organic Rock. It grooves. It Flows. It’s Reykjavík Amsterdam Vegamót their new album just released in May. psychedelic. It’s tough. It’s beautiful. It’s 21:00 Jóhann Kristinsson in DJ Gorilla Funk Brant Bjork originally played in several Classic. The future is now and Brant When: concert FRIDAY SEPT 19 other rock groups such as Kyuss, Fu Bjork and The Bros are here.” Akureyri on Friday, September 26, 23:00 DJ Master Manchu, and Che specializing in his 21:00 - Reykjavík on Saturday, Apótek SUNDAY Sept 14 Apótek 23:00 DJ Áki unique fuzz sound before finally settling September 27, 21:00 23:00 DJ Áki B5 B5 in with BBB. The band can be described 1 E6 B5 Cover charge is 1500 ISK and Sunday Chillout. Live jazz music. 23:45 DJ Einar as heavy riffs laid under immense ride attendees at must be 20. 23:00 Símon Café Cultura Prikið Café Cultura 23:00 DJ Alfons X Hang-Over Cinema. Popcorn and 23:00 DJ Maggi Lego - Café Paris Coke available Hressó 23:00 DJ Andri Ramirez & DJ 21:00 Live Music Stjáni 23:00 DJ Maggi Hressó MONDAY SEPT 15 Oliver 21:00 Live music 23:00 DJ BMV Benni Hemm HemmFréttablaðið 23:00 DJ Maggi Sólon Prikið Kaffibarinn Salsa Night 22:00 Grafiti Party. The Alley’s Murta st. Calunga 23:00 DJ Árni Sveins walls sprayed. DJs Addi and Árni Intro **** Oliver 23:00 DJ BMV Tuesday SEPT 16 Q-Bar Prikið 23:00 Disco Night 22:00 Live performance by local Rósenberg Rósenberg hip-hop heores XXX Rottweiler Memphismafian in Concert. A 22:00 Live Music 23:00 DJ Danni Deluxe great live band. Sólon Q-bar 23:00 Downstairs: Party. Upstairs: 23:00 DJ Sexual Chocolate and DJ Dance Svenni WEDNESDAY SEPT 17 Vegamót Rósenberg 23:45DJ Dóri 22:00 Band Fánar in concert Kaffitár Sólon Salsa Night 23:00 Downstairs: Party. Upstairs: Rósenberg SATURDAY SEPT 20 Vinyl Dancing Joiá Gilberto Tribute concert. Version Vegamót Performance by Petra Ahlmark Apótek DJ Jónas Prikið 23:45 DJ Áki 22:00 DJ Árni B5 23:45 DJ Símon - SleepdrunkFréttablaðið Seasons SATURDAY SEPt 13 Café Cultura THURSDAY SEPT 18 Bloodgroup DJ set & DJ Benni Hjaltalín Amsterdam B-Ruff ***** 23:00 DJ Master B5 Hressó B5 22:00 DJ Leifur 21:00 Live Music 23:00 DJ Leifur Café Cultura 23:00 DJ Maggi Café Cultura 22:00 DJ Thor. Mega Disco Night Nasa 23:00 DJ Nuno Lx and DJ Magic Glaumbar 22:45 SSSól in Concert Hressó Live Music; Beat box, funk, sould Óliver 21:00 Live music & hip hop. 23:00 DJ BMV 23:00 DJ Maggi When: 11PM Prikið Kaffibarinn Hressó 23:00 DJ Maggi & DJ DJ Danni 23:45 DJ Terrordisco Goodbye Party. 21:00 Live Music Deluxxe Kiss this guy goodbye. He’s sexy Q-Bar 23:00 Someone Else Night
Art Music Music & Entertainment | Venue finder 22 Belly´s Arguably the most pub quiz on Fridays at bars and hosts some dents and old regulars. All Music Guide Home / Away Rósenberg Laugavegur 22 | G7 Hafnarstræti 18a | E5 authentic Irish pub 17.30, the winner gets a of Reykjavík’s best R&B and Hip-Hop A popular place Belly´s deserves praise in town, a very lively free case of beer! bands. Shows go plays on weekends. Borko - Celebrating Life among the city´s party for having the cheap- space with live music Hressó on all night long on Q-Bar Photography Exhibition Mobbed Up scenesters, this three est bar prices around. every night, sometimes weekends. **** Austurstræti 20 | E5 Ingólfstræti 3 | F6 storied bar makes for Good for anyone look- two bands playing at With a spacious Næsti Bar A roomy gay/straight From 13 September to 23 November at arrived to Iceland from countries span- The golden boy Sigurður Guðmundsson a great night out with ing for a deal, there once. neutral interior, pleas- Ingólfstræti 1A | F6 bar and a welcome chatting upstairs and are enough tables for the Reykjavík Museum of Photography ning from Croatia to Colombia. They will who has in the recent years won over Dillon ant courtyard and a On nights where addition to downtown dancing downstairs everyone and TVs for Laugavegur 30 | H7 varied lunch menu, queues snake down nightlife. Some of the is an exhibition documenting over 50 all be invited to the opening of the event the hearts of Icelanders with his band with regular DJs. sport | watching. The quintessential Hressó attracts no Laugavegur, Naesti best DJs in town play years of asylum seekers in Iceland, on Saturday 13 September, so come Hjálmar, put together the Memphis Amsterdam Boston rock pub Dillion serves specific type of crowd. Bar can be great place regularly, making it an moderately priced Tap beer and music to sneak off to and especially lively space charting back to 1956. The exhibition will along and meet them. Mafia a few months back. They accom- Hafnarstræti 5 | E6 Laugavegur 28b | H6 Kaffi Amsterdam A fresh addition to the drinks, and has pretty makes a fair hangout chat with friends over on weekends. Upcoming Releases: feature portraits of migrants and also plished to record, using only a single seems to have been Reykjavík bar scene. good music, too. The on weekends. a beer. Frequented Rex photographs of relics from their native Where: microphone, a whole album of only around forever, though Roomy bar floor, nice mix of students and Hverfisbarinn also by the literary and Austurstræti | E5 Retro Stefson - recently it’s been rein- sofas and stylish tattooed tough guys acting elite. countries. This will create a poignancy to Reykjavik Museum of including brand new versions of clas- Hverfisgata 20 | G6 Rex is quite fancy and vented as a live venue. interior make this a always creates a fun After a long line, you’ll Óliver you may feel out of Montaña (october) - the event, as some of the items include a Photography, Tryggvagata 16 sics. The piece was called “Oft spurði Good music, cheap comfy café as well as atmosphere. get in and wonder Laugavegur 20A | H7 place if you don’t dress reframed painting and even a photo- When: ég mömmu” (e. I often asked mom) and beer, and colorful a tavern with good, Domo what all the fuss was This stylish nightclub up a bit. Definitely one characters to be found. unintrusive music. Reykjavík! graph of a family left behind, their cur- September 13 – November 23 has received unique feedback and Siggi Þingholtstræti 5 | F6 about. You may end attracts a glamorous of the more posh spots Apótek Café Cultura The elegantly deco- up here if you’re still crowd of crazy dancers in town. untitled second album (november) rent whereabouts unknown. There will has once again proven he is one of our Austurstræti 16 | E5 Hverfisgata 18 | G6 rated Domo serves going at 4 on a Sunday that may not be for ev- Sólon also be large quotes on the walls telling finest. Next Tuesday, or September 16, Sporting a chic and Situated in the inter- delicious French-Asian morning, in which eryone. In which case, Bankastræti 7A | F5 2 D5 pristine interior with cultural centre, Cultura cuisine, excellent sushi case it’s just as good air | conditioning and the personal stories of the migrants who they will commence their all-winter- Truly a jack | of | all - a blend of modern is a café/bar with a and has a great wine as any. fine food make Oliver trades establishment. long concert series in Café Rósenberg minimalism and ornate cosmopolitan feel. The list. A sure choice. Kaffi Hljómalind a good lunch spot. By night a decent res- Upcoming Distribution: and will thereupon perform every other baroque, a decent spot menu features all sorts Dubliner Laugavegur 21 | G6 Ölstofan taurant, by day a café/ with eager service and of international dishes, Tuesday. The mood will undoubtedly be Hafnarstræti 4 | E5 This organic, free-trade Vegamótastígur | G6 bistro and on Friday Skakkamanage an international menu. alongside the staple The city’s main Irish café prides itself not No tricks here. You’ll and Saturday nights a mobish so buckle your seatbelt and get B5 salad and sandwich. pub attracts quite a lot only on great food want just simple beer nightclub. Art exhibi- All over the face (october 20th) ready for a ride into the South. Bankastræti 5 | F6 Café Paris of foreigners, though and coffee but being a in this simple pub. tions on the walls to By day a chic little Austurstræti 14 | E5 there´s an influx of strong cultural center, Also the hangout for top it off. FM Belfast - bistro with good food With an outdoor ter- locals on weekends. hosting live music as Reykjavík intellectual Thorvaldsen Where: and a prime location race, this café gets Good if you’re looking well as lectures and circles. Austurstræti 8 | E5 How to make friends (october) Iceland-wide for Laugavegur people busy on sunny days. for the darker stuff poetry nights. Organ Dress formally for this watching | by night With a cosy interior, on tap. When: Kaffibarinn Hafnarstræti 1-3 | E4 fancy spot, and come a stylish bar with a fine menu and atten- Glaumbar Bergstraðastræti 1 | F6 This trendy bar and before 12 to avoid a September “whiskey room” and tive service, it makes a Tryggvagata 20 | E4 A popular place to concert venue pres- long line. DJs play manhattanesque fine spot for evening The premier sports bar grab a drink after work, ents a wide range of Thursdays, Fridays and clientele. dining as well. in town, though after this daytime coffee international and local Saturdays. 3 G7 Bar 11 Café Victor the final whistle, DJs joint roils with night- musicians from all lev- Vegamót Check out our Webstore... Laugavegur 11 | G6 Hafnarstræti 1-3| D4 take the floor and be- time activity on week- els of renown. Shows Vegamótastígur 4 | G6 A happening Rock A hangout for older gin a night of feverish ends with live DJs. 4 times a week, lasting Vegamót´s kitchen is hangout right on foreigners, Victor at- dancing. Parties often pound late on weekends. open until 22.00 daily Laugavegur, brings tracts a diverse crowd, Grand Rokk until dawn. Prikið and sports an appeal- in the Iceland rock both in age and origin, Smiðjustígur | G6 NASA Bankastræti | F5 ing lunch menu. Come scene whether on the a rule that extends to As its Viking theme ac- Þorvaldsenstræti 2 Part of the Reykjavík for a tasty brunch on www.kimirecords.net jukebox or in person the musicians that play curately displays, this | E6 bar scene for decades, weekends. If you like mainly on Tuesdays there. hardcore chess hang- The cornerstone of this café/bar has a Óliver, try Vegamót and but throughout the Celtic Cross out is no place for the Reykjavík nightlife, fairly cheap menu and vice versa. kimirecords week. Hverfisgata 26 | H6 lily | livered. Take the NASA has multiple attracts a mix of stu- B4 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2008 B5 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2008 Listings Listings
Rósenberg Q-Bar Gallery StartArt 22:00 Band Túbilakar, a folk duet 22:00 Girls Night Out. DJ Yamaho Aug 28 – Sept 24 Art from Húsavík, in concert Sólon Six solo exhibitions by Anna Sólon 22:00 Troubadour on 2nd floor Eyjólfsdóttir, Magnús Pálsson, Photography Exhibit at 23:00 Downstairs: Party. Upstairs: Vegamót Magnea Ásmundsdóttir, Ásdís Dance 22:00 DJ Benni B-Ruff Spano, Harpa Dögg Kjartansdóttir, Lost Horse Gallery Vegamót Didda Hjartadóttir Leaman as well 23:00 DJ Dóri as START ART artists. Since opening its doors a year ago, Lost The photographers in question – Björn Where: Gallery Ágúst Horse Gallery has proved a welcome Árnason, Friðrik Örn, Guðmundur Ó. Gallery Lost Horse, Aug 16 – Sept 27 Art addition to Reykjavík’s vibrant art scene, Pálmason, Guðmundur R. Guðmunds- Skólastræti 1, 101 Reykjavík SUNDAY Sept 21 Exhibition by Katrín Elvarsdóttir hosting a multitude of impressive shows son, Ingvar Högnason and Julia Staples 101 Gallery Gallery Fold When: B5 Aug 22 – Oct 5 Current exhibition: Gallery Fold’s on a shoestring budget. This weekend – plan to offer up some of the most Opening Saturday UPCOMING Sunday Chillout. Live jazz music. ZEÐRIK - Instalments by Sigga summer exhibition. Paintings sees it opening a group exhibition exciting artful photography being pro- September 13, 18:00 Prikið Björg Sigurðardóttir by Ásgrímur Jónsson, Jón where six accomplished photographers, duced in Iceland today. They all come Hang-Over Cinema. Popcorn and ASÍ Art Museum Stefánsson, Jóhannes S. Kjarval, five Icelanders and an American, will from different backgrounds and work in Coke available Aug 30 – Sept 21 Finnur Jónsson, Þorvaldur display their works in the gallery’s rustic different styles on different subject mat- 4 F6 CONCERTS Rósenberg Sólveig Aðalsteinsdóttir exhibits Skúlason, Jóhann Briem and Nína showroom. ters, so the show is sure to be a diverse various pieces all linked to time 26.09.08 | FIRE AND ICE | 7.30 pm Andrea Glyfa and Eddi Lár play Tryggvadótti foray into modern photography. the blues and space. You can find drawings Gallery Kling & Bang Conductor | Petri Sakari on paper, wood sculptures as well Sept 9 – Sept 28 Soloists | Ari Þór Vilhjálmsson and Hallfríður Ólafsdóttir as photos. The Orange Fire that you showed Atli Heimir Sveinsson | Icerapp 2000 Áskell Másson | Rún Monday SEPT 22 Sept 27- Oct 19 me in Hljómskálagarðurinn Hafliði Hallgrímsson | Poemi Haraldur Jónsson – Myrkurlampi Exhibition by Ásdís Sif Jón Leifs | Three Abstract Paintings The Culture House Gunnarsdóttir Jórunn Viðar | Eldur /Fire Sólon Þorkell Sigurbjörnsson | Columbine Salsa Night Permanent exhibitions: Gallery Turpentine Rósenberg Medieval Manuscripts; The Current Exhibition: 02.10.08 | FAR EAST | 7.30 pm Traditional jazz performance by Library Room. Paintings by Stórval Conductor | James Gaffigan Great selection of Gummi P. and Einar Scheving Current exhibitions: Gerðuberg Cultural Centre Soloists | Roland Pöntinen and Love Derwinger new and used army surplus Surtsey – Genesis Sept 12 – Nov 2 Claude Debussy | La Mer The exhibition traces the Colin McPhee | Tabuh-Tabuhan and collectable militaria Mola. An exhibition of knitting art Francis Poulenc | Concerto for two pianos Open 11 to 5 Weekends WEDNESDAY SEPT 24 emergence and evolution of the by Colombian Indian tribe Cuna. Nico Muhly | Wish you were here island Surtsey until the present Sept 21 – Nov 2 03.10.08 | NOW LISTEN! – GAMELAN | 9.00 pm Café Cultura day and predicts its geographical Video Art exhibition. Conductor | James Gaffigan ISK 1.000 21:00 Rock band Wulfgang in and ecological development over Living Art Museum the next 120 years. Aug 16 – Sept 29 Colin McPhee | Tabuh-Tabuhan Concert. Nico Muhly | Wish you were here 22:00 DJ Frosti Gringo From Beyond the Oceans – Tillit – rúcksicht – regards Kaffitár Translations and original writings Exhibition by Hlynur Hallson 09.10.08 | A GYPSY GALA | 7.30 pm Tango Milonga by Helgi Hálfdanarson Sept 5 - Sept 14 Conductor | Sebastian Tewinkel Rósenberg The thematic exhibition currently Students from the Icelandic Soloist | Rachel Barton Pine 21:00 Jóhann Kristinsson album on view in the Library Room is academy of arts Emmanuel Chabrier | Espana dedicated to Helgi Hálfdanarson’s The poster collection (selection) Johann Strauss | The Gypsy Baron, overture release concert Johannes Brahms | Hungarian Dances translations and original writings. Sept 9 - Oct 18 Manuel de Falla | Dances from the Three-cornered Hat The Late View – Halldór Laxness’ Grassroot 2008-Björk Maurice Ravel | Tzigane Photographs Pablo Sarasate | Carmen-fantasy THURSDAY SEPT 25 Viggósdóttir-Guðmundur Vignir Pablo Sarasate | Zigeunerweisen Nobel Laureate and cosmopolitan Karlsson-Halldór Ragnarsson- B5 Halldór Laxness was better known Jeanette Castroni-Jóna Hlíf 11.10.08 | GYPSIES – A FAMILY CONCERT | 2.00 pm Conductor | Sebastian Tewinkel 22:00 DJ Símon for his writing but also proved to Halldórsdóttir be a good photographer. This is Oct 11 - Oct 22 Soloist | Rachel Barton Pine ARMY.IS Café Cultura Host | Barbara the Clown 22:00 Beatmaking Troopa & Pan an exhibition of his works. Bj Nielsen-Darri Lorenzen- Hressó Exhibition Series Finnbogi Pétursson-Ingólfur WANTS YOU! Ásta Ólafsdóttir displays her Arnrasson-Mika Vanio-Bjorn Tickets sold at www.sinfonia.is 21:00 Live Music or tel. 545 2500. Stoðir is the main sponsor of The Icelandic Army shop Óliver artwork at the Culture Shop. Quiring All concerts take place in Háskólabíó. the Iceland Symphony Orchestra at kolaportið fleamarket 22:00 DJ Schram The Einar Jónsson Museum The National Film Archive of Prikið Permanent exhibition: Iceland 22:00 DJ Moonshine The work of sculptor Einar The National Film Archive of Rósenberg Jónsson. Iceland screens old movie classics 21:00 Django Jazz band and masterpieces twice a week The Forget-Me-Not Burger – Simply Magical! Krummafótur in Concert for 500 ISK per ticket.
Art | Venue finder
101 Gallery hearts of the “cute” ambitious programme Gerðuberg Cultural Archive of Iceland gallery features works Hverfisgata 18A | F6 generation. of exhibitions, it also Centre screens old movie by Icelandic artists. Thu–Sat 14–17 and by The Einar Jónsson presents and sells art- Gerðuberg 3-5 classics and master- Reykjavík Art appointment Museum work of Icelandic and Mon–Thu 11–17 / Wed pieces twice a week for Museum international artists. 500 ISK per ticket. www.101hotel. Eiriksgata | G9 11–21 / Thu–Fri 11–17 Open daily 10–16 is/101hotel/101gallery/ Tue–Sun 14–17 Gallery Fold / Sat–Sun 13–16 The National Gallery www.listasafnreykja- Located in the 101 www.skulptur.is Rauðarástígur 14-16 www.gerduberg.is of Iceland vikur.is Hotel, features a Features a permanent | J9 Located in Breiðholt, Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | E8 Ásmundur Sveinsson broad selection of exhibition on the Mon–Fri 10–18 / Sat the Gerðuberg cultural Tue–Sun 11–17 Sculpture Museum international and local sculptor Einar Jónsson 11–16 / Sun 14–16 centre hosts both exhi- www.listasafn.is Sigtún contemporary art. as well as temporary www.myndlist.is bitions and events. Houses the national Hafnarhús Artótek exhibits. More of an art auction Hitt Húsið art collection and is Tryggvagata 17 | E5 Tryggvagata 15 | D5 Fótógrafí than just a gallery, Fold – Gallery Tukt the centre of research Kjarvalsstaðir Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu Skólavörðustígur 4a also evaluates and Pósthússtræti 3-5 and documentation of Flókagata | K11 exhibits art. Icelandic art. Specialising in 10–19, Fri 11–19, Sat | F7 | E6 and Sun 13–17 www.fotografi.is Gallery Ibiza Bunker www.hitthusid.is The National contemporary art by www.sim.is/Index/ Features photographic Þingholtsstræti 31 Initially thought of Museum local and international artists. Free entrance. Islenska/Artotek exhibitions by local | F7 as a hobby centre to Suðurgata 41 | C9 An Icelandic art photographers. Open Fridays 17-20 keep the youth from Open daily 10–17 Reykjavík City exhibition space and www.myspace.com/ drinking, Hitt húsið is natmus.is/ Theatre art dealer. Pieces are Gallery 100° still operational and Bæjarháls 1 ibizabunker Established in 1863, Listabraut 3 Bergþórugata 21 – 101 Reykjavík – Tel.: 5517200 available for purchase This gallery is actually organises events as this museum features Presenting Icelandic or lease. www.or.is/Forsida/Gal- well as hosting art lery100/ a project by one of Hitt exhibits on Icelandic music and dance ASÍ Art Museum Húsið’s creative sum- exhibitions in their Gal- cultural heritage. performances as well Open weekdays from lery – Gallery Tukt. Freyugata 41 | G10 08:30–16:00 mer groups. Art by the The Nordic House as dramatic theatre, young folks, for the produces six new Tue–Sun 13–17 An art museum run i8 Gallery Sturlugata 5 | C11 Run by the ASÍ labour by the Orkuveita young folks. Klapparstígur 33 | G7 Tue–Sun 12–17 shows each year. Art union, features mostly Reykjavíkur energy Gallery Kling & Bang Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat www.nordice.is/ Reykjavík Maritime contemporary Icelan- corporation. Features Laugavegur 23 | G7 13–17 and by appoint- Explores and promotes Museum dic art. Free entry. contemporary art by Thurs–Sun from 14–18 ment. www.i8.is Scandinavian culture Grandagarður 8 | C3 Pleinairism Árbæjarsafn Icelandic and foreign this.is/klingogbang/ Represents work by an with regular lectures, With a fishing trawler- Kistuhylur 4 artists. Exhibits upcoming eclectic mix of Icelan- films and exhibitions. turned-exhibit space, I8 Gallery exhibits a selection of work as light changes and fades to darkness. An open-air museum and established dic and international educates on the Gallery Auga fyrir contemporary artists. The Numismatic on paper by artists, whose projects are While some artists allude to a natural featuring arts-and- Auga contemporary artists Museum maritime and fishing as well as hosting traditions of Iceland. created whilst outside. Working ‘plein world that is on the verge of disappear- crafts fairs and exhibi- Hverfisgata 35 | G7 Living Art Museum Einholt 4 | K9 tions in the summer. Independently run screenings, lectures Vatnsstígur 3 – G7 Open Mon–Fri Reykjavík Museum air’ has a long history: while it was the ing, other artists explore how a ‘plein and performances. The Culture House art museum featuring Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 / 13:30–15:30. of Photography very foundation of modern landscape air’ approach measures up against the Thu 13–22. www.nylo.is Hverfisgata 15 | F6 Icelandic art. Gallery Turpentine Presents a cultural his- Tryggvagata 16 | D5 A non-profit gallery art during the nineteenth century, it more complex image-making technolo- Open daily 11–17 Gallery StartArt Ingólfstræti 5 | F7 tory of Iceland through Weekdays 12–19 / www.thjodmenning.is Tue–Fri 12–18 / Sat that organises 8–10 analysis of collected Sat–Sun 13–17 first became popular among landscape gies available to the modern artist. Laugavegur 12B | G7 larger exhibitions every A Museum of Icelandic Tue–Sat 1–17 11–16 coins, medals and www.ljosmyndasafn- painters in seventeenth-century Rome. The exhibition features over 50 works cultural history, with www.turpentine.is year as well as other books. reykjavikur.is www.startart.is cultural events. The watercolours, collages, paintings, by 38 artists and is curated by Kitty an ongoing exhibition Contemporary Houses a collection of Reykjavík 871+/-2 Features work by Icelandic contempo- local and international of the original manu- Icelandic and foreign Lost Horse Gallery Aðalstræti 17 | D6 texts, videos, drawings and photographs Scott, director of Visual Arts at the Banff scripts of the sagas art. Admission is free rary artwork as well Skólastræti 1 | F6 Open daily 10–17 photographers, as well display a broad range of strategies: Centre, Banff. and eddas. and the gallery is run as works from old Weekends from 13–19 Museum on the as an archive on the Icelandic masters both history of photography. while some artists are intent on directly Dwarf Gallery without any govern- and by appointment on founding of Reykjavík. for display and sale. Grundarstígur 21 ment funding. weekdays. Located in the oldest Sigurjón Ólafsson representing the world they inhabit, Where: Located in a renovated | H8 Gallery Ágúst Gel Gallery house in the city. Tours Museum others seek to reinvent what ‘plein air’ i8 Gallery Hverfisgata 37 | stable off Laugavegur, in English on Mondays Laugarnestangi 70 Opening Hours: Fri Baldursgata 12 | F9 H7 means in a contemporary context. When: and Sat 18–20 Mon–Fri 13–18 / Sat features work by local and Saturdays at 14.00 Features a permanent Wed–Sat 12–17 artists. Much of work in the exhibition was 12 September – 26 October www.this.is/birta www.galleriagust.is 11–16 / Sun 14–16 Reykjavík Art Gallery exhibition of sculptor www.myspace.com/ Sigurjón Ólafsson’s An independently Gallerí Ágúst is a The National Film Skúlagata 28 | H6 made outdoors using natural light, and run basement Gallery, gallerigel Archive works. contemporary art Tuesday through in response to the sun’s position, the Gallery Dwarf hosts gallery in the centre Both an art gallery and Hvaleyrarbraut 13 Sunday 14–18 exhibitions which a barber shop. Way www.kvikmyndasafn.is surrounding scene and weather con- of Reykjavík. With an The city’s public art 5 G7 speak straight to the cool. The National Film ditions—bound by the time constraints
B6 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2008 B7 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2008 Woolens factory sto r e , Genuine woolen goods, Listings Listings located in Vik made in Iceland ______The National Gallery of Iceland 1840-1940; Disco and Punk – Also wide selection July 10 – Sept 28 Different cultures?; Christmas is Exhibition: Highlight of Icelandic Coming; History of Reykjavík – Music of souvenirs Art from farm to city; Memories of a At the annual summer exhibition House; Living and Playing Return of the 90’s at the National Gallery of The Reykjavík Museum Iceland the emphasis is on of Photography If you want to experience an authentic their strength lay mostly in interactive different periods in modern and July 31 – Sep 23 Icelandic hoe-down you are in luck live-shows where the audience got the contemporary Icelandic art. Each Formstaklingar by Klængur because in September you can witness chance to come up on stage. If you part of the exhibition focuses on a Gunnarsson the comebacks of two Icelandic rural- want to find out if these old-timers certain period in the short history Sigurjón Ólafsson Museum pop bands. The bands are Skítamórall still got it you should check them out of Icelandic art since it was first Permanent exhibition: recognised as a profession, and Works of sculptor Sigurjón who will perform on Nasa Saturday at Nasa. The band members all look various aspects of development in Ólafsson. 13 and SSSól also on Nasa Saturday like horse-tamers but they use reverse art are explored in light 20. Skítamórall’s hey-day was in the strategy. When the show is over we are of social change- Ongoing late 90’s when their cover driven live- all wild. The National Museum OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK shows pumped the Icelandic youth Who knows for how long the show Permanent exhibition: in venues in the countryside. They all will last but we recommend you tell The Making of a Nation Hafnarborg had bleached hair and their jeans were people not to wait up for you. June 6 – Jan 21 Aug 30 – Sept 29 Víkurprjón ehf intentionally faded in Baltic factories. Over the Ocean and Home: Force and Tenderness : A Phone: 487-1250 Icelandic artefacts from Sweden. retrospective exhibition of Sigrún In spite of all the criticism Skítamórall What: www.vikwool.is May 16 – Sept 14 Ólafsdóttir’s sculptures and received for their lack of originality, it is Skítamórall & SSSól Endurkast (Reflection): drawings from 1996–2008. impossible to overlook that these dudes When: Cooperative photography The Icelandic Settlement Centre had melon sized balls. Check them out Saturday, September 13 exhibition between eight Icelandic Permanent exhibitions: at Nasa but don’t be surprised though Where: photographers. The Settlement of Iceland; The the show starts late and the set-list NASA, Thorvaldsenstræti 2 May 16 – Sept 14 Saga of Egill Skalla-Grímsson consists of lame Icelandic love ballads In the Mist: Exhibition by French Current theatre productions: with bongo-drums and a degenerated ey survived a night at Paddy’s... photographer Thomas Humery. Brák – a monologue by Brynhildur ...Can you? Final Countdown. 6 E6 The Numismatic Museum Gudjonsdottir Permanent exhibition: Mr. Skallagrímsson – a monologue SSSól were in their prime earlier than The Central Bank of Iceland and by Benedikt Erlingsson Skítamórall. The band was founded in the National Museum of Iceland Vatnasafn / Library of Water 1987 and soon found its place among jointly operate a numismatic Permanent exhibition: rock and beer thirsty youngsters in wool DAY collection consisting of Icelandic Roni Horn installation. She has tours sweaters. The SSSól guys made some notes and coins. replaced stacks of books with good records early in their careers but Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 glass columns containing water Spectacular Permanent exhibition: gathered from Iceland’s glaciers The Settlement Exhibition and glacial rivers. Reykjavík Art Gallery GalleriBOX Breathtaking Current exhibition: Sep 21- Oct 12 Magnús Tómasson, Pétur Már Anna McCarthy / Heimir Unforgettable Pétursson and Tolli Björgúlfsson Reykjavík Art Museum Veggverk – Ásmundur Sveinsson Sculpture Current exhibition: Museum Painting by Bridget Kennedy Glacier & Hot Permanent Exhibition Kunstraum Wohnraum The Shape of Line (Home gallery) spring walks A new retrospective of works July 5 – 20 Sept by Ásmundur Sveinsson. The Huginn Þór Arason exhibition exhibition focuses on abstract Skaftfell www.mountainguides.is works from 1945 onwards. June 7 – Sept 14 Reykjavík Art Museum Audovision: Various artists exhibit Phone: +354 587 9999 Paddy’s Irish Pub ✳ Hafnargata 38, Reykjanesbær ✳ phone: 421-8900 ✳ www.myspace.com/paddysforever – Hafnarhús at the west-wall. In this series of Sept 18 – Nov 2 exhibitions the curators choose Libia Castro and Ólafur Ólafsson. together visual artists and sound The two artists have worked artists as a pair. Curators are together since the late 1990s, Ingólfur Arnarsson and Elísabet building up a strong body of Indra Ragnarsdóttir. On July 19, Akureyri, Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, You save at the pink stations work which focuses on social Ólöf Helga Helgadóttir and Kira issues and the sharing of life Kira open their exhibition. Hveragerði, Reykjavík, experiences. Their work has a Aug 30 – Dec 31 Ísafjörður strong political core and gives “Passing by” a film by Darri Akranes, Hafnarfjörður, voice to people on the margins of Lorenzen but Evil Madness Súðavík Akureyri our society, migrants and asylum Njarðvík, Sandgerði, composed the music Egilsstaðir seekers. accompanying the film. Neskaupstaður Sept 18 – Jan 11 Shivering Man by Sigtryggur Berg Kópavogur, Neskaupstaður, Stykkishólmur Private Exhibition by Ingibjörg Sigmarsson Grundarfjörður Jónsdóttir LÁ Art Museum Grundarfjörður, Hreðavatnsskáli Reykjavík Art Museum Current Exhibition: Exhibition on Akranes Hveragerði – Kjarvalsstaðir the works of visual artist Magnús Stykkishólmur, Súðavík, Reykjavík Sandgerði Selfoss 18 May – 31 Aug Kjartansson. Njarðvík Hafnarfjörður Dreams of the Sublime and Ísafjörður, Vík í Mýrdal Nowhere in Contemporary Icelandic Art: and Hreðavatnsskáli have Vík This exhibition includes many The Orkan network is growing steadily, offering more savings new works of photography Events more than just stunning throughout Iceland. Keep an eye out for the Orkan petrol stations and and video art by Iceland’s most BOSTON Driving Sustainability ‘08 take advantage of our lower prices. outstanding artists, building on nature and beautiful Sept 18 - Sept 19 BAR - LAUGAVEGUR 28B-2nd floor their disparate ideas about nature Global pioneers in the worldwide as a phenomenon. people in common! tel. 517 7816 trend of renewable energy for www.orkan.is 18 May – 31 Aug transport gather in Iceland DYNAMO REYKJAVIK open 17-01 weekdays 17-03 weekends Where Am I?: An exhibition in September 18 and 19 at Nordica which children and adults can Hilton Hotel in Reykjavík to contemplate their planet, their explore the most exciting country, and the landmarks of developments in the field.This their environment. year, special focus is on the future 18 May – 31 Dec of electric vehicles, with topics Jóhannes S. Kjarval – Key ranging from CO2 Free Power Works: The current exhibition and Next Generation Utilities to in Kjarvalsstaðir’s east gallery >XZaVcY^X Automotive Batteries, Plug-in features key works from the Technology & New Business museum’s collection along Models. A123 Systems, Toyota with works on loan from the Europe, Ford Motor Company, Labour Unions’ Art Gallery and Rocky Mountain Institute, 6gi from the collection of Ingibjörg Dong Energy, New York City Guðmundsdóttir and Þorvaldur and Vattenfall are among those ÆÆÆ Guðmundsson. presenting as well as the Director 13 Sept – 16 Nov of the documentary film Who I]Z:hhZcXZ Visual Symphony – The Art of Killed The Electric Car? The world Bragi Ásgeirsson for 60 Years famous aviator Bertrand Piccard Reykjavík Maritime Museum d[VCVi^dc of Solar Impulse shares his vision Current Exhibitions: of sustainable mobility through Living Museum by the Sea; the eyes of a scientist-explorer Arterial for Country and City; so prepare yourself for a powerful From Poverty to Abundance; The debate, 21st century technology Shark – Light and Life Energy; and innovative thinking! 6gi
09-16. a a 2 Tourist Information Öldugat gisgat Bræðraborgarstígur a Icelandic Travel Market Æ Tryggvag Bankastræti 2, Tel: 510 5700, 5 www.kleif.is rðastræti at a a Information on day tours, accommoda- G tions, car rental and everything else you Túng Hafnars Skú Sæbrau ata træti lagat need to know when travelling in Iceland. Austurst t ræti 1 Lindargat a Tourist Information Centre 6 A›alstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, a a Ban www.visitreykjavik.is kastræt Sæbraut 6 Hver ígur Offers information for tourists as well as 4 i fisgat Hofsvallagat Sólvallagat i a providing internet access, booking ser- i ækjargata vice, a phone centre, money exchange ser- a L lapparst sstræt K vice, tax refund and selling the Reykjavík ta i L 3 augavegur tnsstígur Tourist Card. The Reykjavík Tourist Card Hringbraut rga gholt Va ún n Ingólfsstræt Borgart gives admission to city busses, various Þi arstræt Suðu ð 5 museums, Reykjavík swimming pools, rnargata H a ta Sk ver The Family Park and Reykjavík Zoo, The 7 Tj ólavör fisgat a Culture House and the National and Bergs
ð tígur University Library. L us City Pond aufásvegur tígur Skúlagat tún rkjuvegur Getting Around a rakkas La íki F ugavegur a r Nó Public Transport F Óðinsgata ígurGrettisg The only public transport system in st ta ata Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run ev- 8 Vi ery 20 minutes and price per fare is 280 Njálsga Hátún a ISK for adults and 100 ISK for children. kimelur ta Snorrabraut Bir Bergþórugat Barónsstígur Complete route map at: www.bus.is. Tel: Baldursgat 540 2700 a Laugavegur Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on week- Sóleyjargata a a Brautarholt days and 10:00-24:00 on weekends Bragagat Njarðargat Taxi
9 uðarárstígur Hreyfill-Bæjarlei›ir, Skipholt Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522 ta r Ra Skipholt
rga Bergst BSR, Tel: 561 0000 Eiríksgata Barónsstígu tún Hljómskáli aðarstræti a For disabled travellers: Suðu Hringbrau Reykjavík Group Travel Service, Park Nó L Brunasta›ir 3, Tel: 587 8030, aufásvegur t t www.randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_ 10 travel_service/ Háteigsv Snorrabraut egur Airlines unnarsbrau G Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, Flókagat Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is Va rstígur tnsmýrarvegur a Air Vestmannaeyjar, RESTAURANT Gamla Hringbraut Tel: 481 3255, www.eyjaflug.is uðará ta Press reviews: Ra Bus Terminal 11 .. Probably the best BSÍ, Vatnsm‡rarvegur 10, Njarðarga Miklatún addition to Icelandic Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is restaurant landscape Flybus Bus terminal Hringbra íð Busses run daily from the BSÍ Bus .. Great food, ut ngahl Terminal to Keflavík International La Ból staðarhlí something new in Mi Airport in connection with all departing klabr ð Iceland, like never 12 aut flights. Departures daily from 04:45 to glumýrarbraut seen before 15:00/16:30 (every 15 - 60 minutes). For in Kr Fine dining Indian Flybus time schedule see: www.flybus.is cusine, hard to beat Samferda.net anywhere!! A reasonable choice for the budget Frakkastigur 12, traveller. You log on to the website www. tel: 551-7722 samferda.net, choose your destination 13 open 17 til late and hopefully find a travel buddy to share the cost. Domestic Airport www.indianmango.is Laugavegur 23 THE ORIGINAL TASTE
INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE AUSTURSTRÆTI - 4 Tel. 551 0292 www.shalimar.is B10 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2008 B11 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2008 Eating Eating
Food Food B5 Rub23
Reviewed by Desiree Andrews — Photo by Viktor Svan Reviewed by Stevie Ward — Photo by SWARD
If you’re walking down Laugavegur, it’s The main dish, a seafood stir-fry Where: Rub23, the brainchild of Einar Geirs- The rubs themselves range from ‘liquid’ Where: hard to miss B5 – the restaurant with served in a mango tequila sauce, saved Bankastræti 5 son, is an Umi restaurant situated in rubs, the garden herbs like garlic and Kaupvangsstræti 23 the life-sized horse statue in the window the day. 101 Reykjavík the heart of Akureyri. Einar came up rosemary – perfect for flounder rolled 600 Akureyri accompanied by a DJ turntable and, de- Pieces of succulent lobster, scallops, Tel.: 552 9600 with the idea when ‘both awake and in pepper and oily fish; the ‘dry’ spiced Tel.: 461 2756 pending on the time of day, lots of well- and prawns were marinated in the light dreaming’ of being able to mix differ- rubs for the less fatty fish; to the strong dressed people dancing and drinking. sauce, which was neither too sweet nor 3 F6 ent types of fish and meat with selected Indian, Arabian and Creole rubs, best 4 The place is as stylish on the inside as too spicy. The fresh combination of the ‘rubs’ or sauces that he has created him- served with lamb or cat-fish. it is on the outside. While there are few seafood and the still-crisp sweet peas How much: self from his own recipes to delight the The desserts list boasts ‘chocolate How much: tables, it’s as much a high-end restaurant made me wonder if there wasn’t a farm- 1400-4000 ISK senses. The simple enough dishes are served three different ways: hot, cold 1850 mains, 1450 dessert as it is a bar. The dress code requires that ers’ market nearby. The dish was served complemented by the menu – it is even and medium’, and no need to decide. you put some thought into your outfit; with buttery rice, which was masterfully What we think: subtly colour-coded – indicating what Taking in the umi mentality, they all What we think: dress in black if you really want to blend cooked and tasted wonderful even on its The lowpoints cancel out the complements what dish. The prices are come together – pint size, but unbeliev- Despreately needs in. own. My companion commented that considerable highlights the same for each course, and the chef ably luxurious. The ‘medium’ being a a Reykjavík outlet. As far as the food goes, it was a mixed it was the best meal he has ever had in decides the lovingly garnished salads sweet white chocolate mousse, served bag. For the starter, my companion and Reykjavík, and while I can’t commit to and sweet potatoes to complement both alongside berries and blood orange sor- I were promised smoked duck with aru- that, it certainly made my mouth happy. meat and rub. No guidance from your bet, drizzled with ‘sweet rub’ sauce. gula salad. When the salad arrived, it Unfortunately, the dessert wasn’t as pocket, only by what your inspiration Although the servings are small, by was thin slices of tenderly cooked duck big of a hit. It’s hard to say anything that and instinct tells you. the end you are filled and satisfied and on romaine, not arugula. To my mind, bad about a chocolate torte filled with The chosen starter, Arctic char tem- aware that you have experienced some- this is like being promised a BMW and oozing hot chocolate sauce, especially pura with cucumber fennel, is delicious thing truly unique. We don´t serve getting a Volkswagen. Arugula would when it is accompanied by coconut ice and is complimented by a light Castillo The rubs themselves can be pur- have added a nice flavour compliment- cream, but this desert did not deliver. Its De Molina Chardonnay. The sushi is chased and their taste savoured, but the ing the duck. Instead, the romaine was flavour was too mild to indulge in and it fresh and inspired, presented delicately style must be experienced in the restau- foreigners... too bland and was something to trudge probably wasn’t worth the calories. with shaved sashimi served on sweet rant itself – a carefree, intimate and im- through rather than to enjoy. gelatine, which melts in the mouth. maculate dinnertime. because to us - nobody is foreign. Only 45 min. drive from Reykjavík is Eyrarbakki, a beautiful village by the south coast, where foreigners have been feeling at home since the 9th century AD. So welcome to Rauða húsið, a restaurant that makes you feel at home. we bring the o to sush Tel: (+354) 483-3330, Eyrarbakki - South coast
Osushi Lækjargata 2a Og Borgartún 29 I Sími : 561 0562
Ó restaurant -as good as it gets! Food & Drink | Venue finder Located in the old charming area of Reykjavik Af lífi og sál side for those who is a café/bar with a delicious French-Asian family-run vegetarian Hornið ity fish products. The is a gathering place for the more popular Located in the City Sólon Tíu Dropar Ó restaurant offers you an unforgettable culinary experience. Restaurant choose to dine in. cosmopolitan feel. The cuisine, excellent sushi restaurant on Klap- Hafnarstræti 15 | E6 spiced skyr side a all sorts of tough folks. junk-food places in Hall with a great view Bankastræti 7a | F6 Laugavegur 27 | G7 Laugavegi 55b | 7H Á Næstu Grösum menu features all sorts and has a great wine parstígur. Offers an Since 1979, this Italian special treat. If you want traditional town, renowned for of the pond, this café Truly a jack-of-all An old-fashioned café A high street backyard Laugavegur 20B | G7 of international dishes, list. A sure choice. ever-changing menu restaurant has been Indian Mango Icelandic food, a great its greasy sandwiches has a good selection trades establishment. with warm atmosphere Our emphasis is on seasonal and natural ingredients and our restaurant where the Regarded by many to alongside the staple Eldsmiðjan of specials and soup a longtime Reykjavík Frakkarstígur 12 | H8 place to see another and its unique Nonni- of pastries and a good By night a decent res- and generous coffee menu includes the famous Icelandic fish and lamb. menu changes every be the best vegetarian salad and sandwich. Bragagata 38A | G9 du jours, alongside a staple. Famous for its Specializing in deli- side of Reykjavík. sauce. Open late for a place to relax. Regular taurant, by day a café/ refills. A thoroughly night, so who knows place in town, “First Café Loki Totally satisfying basic menu pizza and stuffed cal- cious dishes from the Kofi Tómasar midnight cravings. art exhibits add to the bistro and on Friday pleasant establishment. what´s for dinner? but zones, it proudly offers aesthetic. and Saturday nights a Vegetarian” offers Lokastígur 28 | G9 oven-baked pizza Grái Kötturinn Goa region of India, Frændu O Sushi Tjarnarbakkinn Iceland´s modern cuisine at its best serving such dishes as a healthy and tasty With a splendid view with a wide choice of Hverfisgata 16A | G7 an affordable menu of honed to perfection in Laugavegur 2 | F7 Lækjargata 2A | E6 Sægreifinn nightclub. Art exhibi- Vonarstræti 3 | D7 grilled dolphin, bac- menu of vegetarian of Hallgrímskirkja, Café toppings | snails an Legendary for its early high-quality dishes the owner’s period as Nestled in a basement Also called “The Verbuð 8, Geirsgata tions on the walls to Right above the Iöno calao and kangaroo, and vegan dishes. In- Loki is the perfect unusual specialty. Well opening ours, the Gray Hótel Holt head chef at the Four location, Uncle Tom´s Train”, O Sushi’s most | D5 top it off. theater, an ideal place you can´t go wrong by dian theme on Fridays place to take a load worth the cost. Order, Cat serves amazing Bergstaðarstræti 37 Seasons. Incredible Cabin has the feeling intriguing feature is Right next to the Sushibarinn to go before shows. dropping by for lunch a hit. off your feet and enjoy take away or eat breakfasts and coffee | F7 service as well as food. of a back-alley London a conveyor belt that harbor, Sægrefinn fish Laugavegur 2 | F7 Nice views of the pond or dinner. B5 some solid homemade comfortably among the that packs a wallop. A Housing Iceland´s Jómfrúin Café. On weekends it runs around the entire shop is like none other Deceptively ordinary and outdoor dining in Aktu Taktu Bankastræti 5 | F6 Icelandic food. paintings. splendid way to start most renowned res- Lækjargata 4 | E6 becomes a happening restaurant delivering in the country. With a Sushibarinn has re- the summertime. The F í t o n / S Í A Skúlugata 15 | K8 By day a chic little Café Paris Fiskmarkaðurinn you off on your day. taurant, The Gallery, an These days, good and diverse bar. a buffet of authentic diverse fish selection, cently become the talk lamb comes especially This drive-in destina- bistro with good food Austurstræti 14 | E6 Aðalstræti 12 | D6 Grillhúsið evening here is an un- Smörrebröd can be an Krua Thai sushi straight to your exquisite lobster soup of the town among recommended. tion in 101 Reykjavík and a prime location With an outdoor ter- Run and co-owned by Tryggvagata 20 | forgettable experience. elusive delicacy. Lucky Tryggvagata 14 | D5 table. and good service, an Reykjavík sushi lovers, Vegamót is busy day and night for Laugavegur people race, this café gets the national team of E5/E6 Delicious French- for us out in the colo- We dare you to find Pizza King absolute must-try. serving, in our opinion, Vegamótastígur 4 and the burgers are watching | by night busy on sunny days. chefs, this establish- With a menu of rea- inspired cuisine and nies, it’s alive and well a better meal for the Hafnarstræti 18 | E6 Segafredo the very best rolls | G7 especially tasty. The a stylish bar with a With a cosy interior, ment specializing in sonably priced home- fine wines await. at Jómfrúin with fresh same price anywhere This little place serves Lækjatorg | E6 in city. Vegamót´s kitchen is caramel shakes are a “whiskey room” and fine menu and atten- Japanese cuisine has style food, Grillhúsið Humarshúsið eel imported specially else. Every dish is not only the cheap- The Italian coffee chain Svarta Kaffi open until 22.00 daily local favorite. manhattanesque tive service, it makes a everything planned to has satiated hungry Ammtmanstígur 1 from Denmark. delicious. Just eat what est but largest slices makes its way to Læk- Laugavegur 54 | H8 and sports an appeal- American Style clientele. fine spot for evening the last detail, ensur- regulars since 1994 | E7 Kaffi Hljómalind looks best to you on downtown. A local fa- jatorg Square, bringing A cosy second floor ing lunch menu. Come Tryggvagata 26 | E5 Babalú dining as well. ing a relaxing evening. with juicy burgers, One of the oldest res- Laugavegur 21 | G7 their colorful menu. vorite, and open until 6 strong espresso and café, their fame lies for a tasty brunch on With a soft bun and Skólavörðustígur 22A Café Roma 3 Frakkar sandwiches, steaks taurants in the country, This organic, free-trade La Primavera on Friday and Saturday Italian lunch snacks partly in their tasty weekends. If you like lots of veggies, you | G8 Rauðarárstígur 8 | J9 Baldursgata 14 | F9 and fish dishes. the lobster house is café prides itself not Austurstræti 9 | E6 nights. to grab on the way to Súpa í Brauði (Soup Óliver, try Vegamót can settle into a booth It’s tough to miss café Roma, an Italian deli A seriously Icelandic Hamborgarabúlla known of course for only on great lunches Though it sounds Pizza Pronto work or just to enjoy in Bread) and also in and vice versa. and eat for hours. Big Babalú walking up and café offers a va- atmosphere and tradi- Tómasar (“Bullan”) its lobster and also and food but being a strange, La Primavera Vallarstræti 4 | D6 on the spot. their romantic atmo- Við Tjörnina portions for authentic Skólavörðustigur. A riety of breads, soups tional Icelandic dishes Geirsgata 1 | D5 its impressive cognac strong cultural center, serves delicious tra- With a convenient Shalimar sphere. Good for a few Templarasund 3 | E7 American dining. cozy place for coffee as well as tempting prepared in the good Considered by some lounge. Fine intimate hosting live music as ditional North Italian location and late hours, Austurstræti 4 | E6 early evening drinks. A Reykjavík classic Argentína Steak- and cake, the well- desserts. For a good old-fashioned way. to be the best real dining. well as lectures and cuisine using only local a good place to snack Shalimar sports the Tapas with menu exclusively house worn, homey ambience bargain, come at RSVP and keep your hamburger in Reyk- Hressó poetry nights. produce. A startlingly in between bars. Three conceit of being the Vesturgata 3B | D5 of traditional cuisine, Barónstígur | I8 makes it difficult to lunchtime for the ears pricked for wild javík, “Bullan” does Austurstræti 20 | E6 Kaffitár tasty combination and sizes of pizza with northernmost Indian For those with a bit as frequented by tour- True to its name with leave. specials. whaling tales! serve some mysteri- With a spacious Bankastræti 8 | F6 a local favorite. a good selection of restaurant in the world of money and time to ists as it is by locals. A tender steaks and Bæjarins Beztu Café Victor Geysir Bar/Bistro ously delicious burgers, neutral interior and Kaffitár celebrates Mokka toppings. A cheap, if and has fine daily spe- spare, Tapas serves perfect opportunity to flamingly vibrant South Tryggvagata | E6 Hafnarstræti 1-3 | Aðalstræti 2 | D6 guaranteed to take the a varied lunch menu, good coffee, and Skólavörðustígur 3A unhealthy, choice. cials. We recommend course after course of try Icelandic delicacies. American décor. Gen- The oldest fast-food in D6/E6 Situated in the digni- edge off any hangover. Hressó attracts no serves it in abundance, | F7 Prikið the quite addictive delightful miniature Vitabar erous portions, fine Iceland, it is feasibly A hangout for older fied Geysir Building at Hlölla Bátar specific type of crowd. along with sweet Operating since 1958, Bankastræti 12 | F6 chicken tikka masala. dishes. Also serves Bergþórugata 21 | H9 wine, liqueurs and ci- the best hot dog stand foreigners, Victor at- the corner of Vestur- Ingólfstorg | D6 Tap beer and music treats and tasty if pricy Mokka is the city Part of the Reykjavík Sjávarkjallarinn tasty and unusually af- Really a bar, but best gars make an excellent in Europe. Don’t be tracts a diverse crowd, gata and Aðalstræti, The first sub sandwich makes a fair hangout special blends. Eat in center´s oldest cof- bar scene for decades, Aðalstræti 2 | D6 fordable lobster. known for its ham- choice in fine dining. intimidated by the both in age and origin, this stylish bistro is shop in Iceland, Hlölla on weekends. or to go, a great way fee joint and founder this café/bar has a Elegant Seafood Cellar Thorvaldsen burgers. Burger and Austurlanda- perpetual line in front a rule that extends to always a good place to Bátar has a large Icelandic to enjoy your morning of Icelandic coffee fairly cheap menu and focuses on gourmet Austurstræti 8 | E6 fries for 500 one of hraðlestin – an absolute must and the musicians that play grab a tasty bite for a selection of creatively Fish & Chips boost. culture. Regular art attracts a mix of stu- seafood and tantaliz- Dress formally for this the best deals in town, Hverfisgata 64A | H7 worth the wait. there. reasonable price. named sandwiches Tryggvagata 8 | E5 Kaffivagninn exhibits are always dents and old regulars. ing asian-fusion dishes. fancy spot, and come but Forget-Me-Not Though a bit expensive Café Cultura Domo Garðurinn with equally imagina- Not your average Grandagarður 10 worth a look. Mostly R&B and Hip- Share the exotic menu, before 12 to avoid a blue cheese and Garlic for take-away, it is well Hverfisgata 18 | G6 Þingholtsstræti 5 | F7 Klappastigur 37 | G7 tive contents. Good for fish’n’chips joint, but | D1 Nonnabiti Hop on weekends. courses selected by long line. DJs play Extravaganza are alse worth it for a spicy bite Situated in the inter- The elegantly deco- “Ecstasy’s Heart” is an adventurous bite. a healthy restaurant By the harbor, this Hafnarstræti 9 | E6 Raðhúskaffi | D7 the chef, with a friend Thursdays, Fridays and winners. Ó restaurant Þórsgata 1 Tel. +354 511 66 77 orestaurant.is of this Indian cuisine. cultural centre, Cultura rated Domo serves a simple, friendly, using only organic lunch and coffee place “Nonna” is one of Tjarnargata 11 for the most fun. Saturdays. A few tables to the vegetables and qual- Hótel Óðinsvé 101 Reykjavík Tel. +354 511 62 00 [email protected] B12 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2008 Shopping SHOPPING Stylist: Erna Bergmann − Hair & Makeup: Elísabet Alma − Models: Eva & Geiri − Photographer: GAS
She wears: Sweatband: Girl & the Gorilla - Kisan Scarf: Sonia Rykiel - Kisan Gloves: Tösku- og hanskabúðin Dress: Thelon - Trílógía Sweater: Sonia Rykiel - Kronkron Vest: Thelon - Trílógía Pants: G-star Raw - G-star Shoes: Chie Mihara - Kron Bag: Sonia Rykiel - Kisan Computer bag: Henrik Vibskov - Kronkron
He wears: Hat: Billabong - Brim Scarf: KB - Belleville Shirt: Second Hand - Spúútnik Jacket: G-star - G-star Pants: G-star - G-star Shoes: Liborious Bag: Tösku- og hanskabúðin
Grab a free copy at your hotel or nearest tourist info www.designdistrict.is
Shopping | Venue finder
12 Tónar Laugavegur 15 | G7 Laugavegur 29 | G7 to perk up your apart- ing shop with every- A great source for all items of any kind. a wide selection of Rokk og Rósir For whatever women’s Skólavörðustígur 15 All the natural skincare Artist Jón Sæmun- ment. thing from necklaces to kinds of reading mate- Kronkron the colourfully printed Laugavegur 17 | G7 lingerie needs you products from the dur Auðarson’s own fur coats to kimonos. rial, with restaurants on designer products. might have, this is the | G8 G-Star Raw Laugavegi 63B | I8 Second-hand clothing famous geothermal spa hand-printed Rock and the second floor. store to satisfy them. A record label as well Laugavegur 86 | I8 Green Apple This hip new shop Mál og Menning for the fairer sex at a at their outlet here. Roll label, Dead, plus as a store, all the best A store for the Dutch Laugavegur 20 | G7 Kisan stocks the latest trends Laugavegur 18 | G7 reasonable price. Trilogia others. new Icelandic music on Brim jeans brand, an edgy The tiny shop Laugavegur 7 | F7 in everything from A multi-level store with Skarthúsið Laugavegur 7 | F7 CDs or live on Fridays Laugurvegur 71 | H7 Dogma collection with innova- combines massage An interesting mix of socks to sweaters. games, books, souve- Laugavegur 12 | F7 A collection of trendy at 5 PM. Enormous surf wear, Laugavegur 32 | H7 tive details and washes. and other relaxation items from all around KVK nirs and a bustling café Glittery accessory shop designer wear fills skate wear, and snow- Dogma offers street products with organic the world you won’t on the top floor. the shop, summery Aftur Galleri Sautján Laugavegur 27 | G7 stuffed with cheap board shop. clothing with interest- products. find anywhere else. dresses, sweaters and Laugavegur 23 | G7 Laugavegur 91 | I8 Small yet stuffed Nakti Apinn jewellery, bags or other ing prints. Hooded skirts. Aftur’s internation- Börn Náttúrunnar Stocking many hip Gyllti Kötturinn Kisuberjatréð designer shop KVK, Bankastræti 14 | F7 small items. sweaters and T-shirts ally acclaimed label is Skólavörðustígur 17a labels, a unisex store Austurstræti 8 | E6 Vesturgata 4 | D5 which stocks a nice Offers an amazing Skífan The Viking made by both Icelandic proudly displayed here | G8 offering casual busi- One of a few second A lovely gallery/gift selection of local array of colourful de- Laugavegur 26 | G7 Hafnarstræti 3 | E5 and foreign designers in their shop/studio. The basement ness wear to evening hand shops that have shop run by ten artists designs. signer wear as well as Selection of CDs, DVDs This large tourist shop can be found. Álafoss children’s toy store dress wear. popped up in recent and designers where Liborius contemporary media. and computer games sells all sorts of smart sells clothes and toys Fígúra year, Gyllti Kötturinn they sell their products. souvenirs to bring back Laugavegur 1 | F7 Gilbert Laugavegur 7 | F7 Nexus as well as some Icelan- only made of organic Skólavörðustígur | also offers some pieces home. The downtown outlet G8 Laugavegur 62 | H8 Kolaportið One of a kind, very Hverfisgata 103 | I8 dic films with English products as well as This shop features by locals. for famous makers of Watchmaker Gilbert Tryggvagata 19 | E5 high-end shop featur- The biggest comic subtitles. Þorsteinn Bergmann books about childcare Icelandic designer traditional Icelandic Guðjónsson has sold Handprjóna- Open on weekends, ing the latest, crispest book and gaming store Spúútnik Skólavörðustígur 36 and parenthood. wear, everything from woolens. watches and clocks on sambandið you can get a bargain designs for both sexes. in Reykjavík has some- Laugavegur 32 | G7 | G8 street clothes to party Belleville Cintamani Laugavegur for over 40 Lækjargata 2A | E6 on almost anything at Marimekko thing for everyone. One of the best Since the 1940s this Laugavegur 11 | dresses. years. Recently, Gilbert All sorts of hand knit this indoor flea market. small store has offered Laugavegur 25 | G7 F7 Laugavegur 56 | H8 Noland second-hand shops Featuring quality Friða Frænka designed his own line woollen clothing as a huge selections of Stuffed with trendy Kraum Finnish designer brand Laugavegur 32 | H7 in the country, with Icelandic outdoor gear, Vesturgata 3 | of wristwatches. well as fine yarns and household supplies for streetwear designs as D5 Aðalstræti 10 | D6 Marimekko has found A new skate shop recycled clothes at a well as funky maga- you can even book an A real treasure chest of Glamúr knitting supplies. Featuring the best in its spot on Laugav- offering fresh tees and range of prices. a laughable low price. excursion on the spot. antique furniture and zines and media. Laugavegur 41 | H7 Iða contemporary Icelandic egur. The Marimekko sneakers from Krew, Systur vintage accoutrements Blue Lagoon Store Dead A flashy vintage cloth- Lækjargata 2A | E6 design of everyday concept store stocks Supra and more. Laugavegur 70 | H7 B14 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 14 2008 Info / Classifieds
Vitastígur 13, Dalshraun 9, Víghólastígur 21 www.gulalinan.is Practical Info Tel: 551 2301, www.udafoss.is Tel: 565 3800 Reykjavík Free Lutheran Church, The yellow pages Berg Car Rental, Fríkirkjuvegur 5 www.leigulistinn.is Cultural Centres and Tangarhöfða 8, Pentecostal Assembly, Rent a flat Tel: 577 6050 Services Tourist Offices Hátún 2 www.ja.is Hertz, Roman Catholic Church, Icelandic telephone directory Post Office The Intercultural Centre Flugvallavegur, Tel: 522 4400 The Intercultural Centre throws occasional Hávallagata 14 Post offices are located around the city as cultural events and conferences but its main well as in the countryside. The downtown Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-Day Where to Get … purpose is to be an information and counsel- Saints, Ásabraut 2 post office is at Pósthússtræti 3-5. For a full Work and residence permit: The Directorate ling centre and serve as an advocate for the Useful Information list and info on opening hours visit www.pos- Jehovah’s Witnesses, of Immigration, Skógarhlíð 6, Tel: 510 5400, rights of immigrants in Iceland. turinn.is. Stamps are also sold in bookstores, Where to Learn Icelandic as a Sogavegur 71 www.utl.is. Hverfisgata 18, Tel: 530 9300 gas stations, some grocery stores and tourist Foreign Language www.ahus.is Seventh-Day Adventists, Insurance and benefits: The State Social Se- shops. Icelandic on the Internet, Suðurhlíð 36 curity Institute, Laugavegur 114-116, Tel: 560 The Icelandic Tourist Board www.vefskoli.is 4400, www.tr.is Embassies and Consulates Lækjargata 3, Tel: 535 5500, Zen Buddhism in Iceland, United States, www.visiticeland.com Mímir Continuing Education, Reykjavíkurvegur 31 Icelandic citizenship: Unless you come from a Laufásvegur 21, All information needed before travelling in Skeifán 8, Tel: 580 1800, www.mimir.is Independent Church, Nordic country, foreign citizens have to have Tel: 562 9100 Iceland. Námsflokkar Reykjavíkur, Háteigsvegur 101 had an unrestricted residence permit in Ice- land for at least seven years in order to get an United Kingdom, Nordic House Fríkirkjuvegur 1, Tel: 551 2992 The Russian Orthodox Church in Iceland, Icelandic citizenship although some excep- Laufásvegur 31, Sturlugata 5, Tel: 551 7030, Fjölmenning, Sólvallagata 10 tions exist to that general rule. Applications Tel: 550 5100 www.nordice.is Laugavegur 59, Tel: 511 1319, www.fjolmen- The Cross, are at the Ministry of Justice and Ecclesiasti- The Nordic cultural centre organises various ning.is Russia, Hlíðasmári 5-7 cal Affairs, cultural events, conferences and exhibitions. Garðastræti 33, The Icelandic College of Engineering and Skuggasund, Tel: 545 9000, All major tourist spots in Reykjavík also offer Tel: 551 5156 Technology, www.domsmalaraduneyti.is brochures, maps and information for travel- Höfðabakki 9, Tel: 577 1400, www.thi.is Trade Unions China, lers. Unemployment benefits: Directorate of Víðimelur 29, Iðnskólinn í Reykjavík, The Icelandic Federation of Labour, Labour, Public Employment Service, Tryggva- Tel: 552 6751 Skólavörðuholti, Tel: 552 6240, Sætún 1, Tel: 535 5600, gata 17, Tel: 515 4800, For a full list visit Ministry for Foreign Affairs: Transportation www.ir.is www.asi.is www.vinnumalastofnun.is www.mfa.is/diplomatic-missions/icelandic- The University of Iceland – The Federation of State and Municipal Icelandic social security number (kennitala): missions/ Rent a Bike Department of Continuing Education, Dun- employees, National Register, Borgartún 24, Tel: 569 Grettisgata 89, Internet Access Borgarhjól, hagi 7, Tel: 525 4924, 2900, Hverfisgata 50, www.endurmenntun.is Tel: 525 8300, www.bsrb.is www.thjodskra.is Most coffeehouses have wireless Internet Tel: 551 5653, www.borgarhjol.net The Association of Academics, =G:>CI AD;I access. Language School Lingva, Driver’s license: Applications at police sta- Borgartún 6, Tel: 581 2090, Computers with Internet connections are HI Hostel, The University of Iceland, at Sturlugata. Tel.: tions.(Those who have a foreign license www.bhm.is available at: Sundlaugarvegur 34, 561 0351, www.lingva.is don’t need an Icelandic one for the first six Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is Efling, months.) Ráðhúskaffi City Hall, Sætún 1, Tel: 510 7500, Tax card: Tax office, Laugavegur 166, Tel: 563 Tjarnargata 11 Tourist Information Centre, Religious Movements Aðalstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, www.efling.is 1100, www.rsk.is BSÍ Bus Terminal, www.visitreykjavik.is The national church in Iceland is the Evangel- The Commercial Workers’ Union, Social Service: Information and service is pro- Vatnsmýrarvegur 10 ical Lutheran Church. Masses are generally Kringlan 7, Tel: 510 1700, www.vr.is vided by district service centres in Reykjavík. Ground Zero, held on Sundays at 11:00. Service in English Union of Public Servants, To locate the service centre in your neigh- Vallarstræti 10 Car Rentals is at Hallgrímskirkja every last Saturday each bourhood see: www.reykjavik.is month, starting at 14:00. The Roman Catholic Grettisgata 89, Tel: 525 8340, www.sfr.is The Reykjavík City Library, Átak Car Rental, Church also has masses in English and Pol- Tryggvagata 15 Smiðjuvegur 1, ish. ;NG>G6AA6 Tel: 554 6040 The National and University Library, Useful Websites Other religious movements in Reykjavík are Arngrímsgata 3 ALP, for example: www.visitreykjavik.is Tourist Information Centre, Dugguvogur 10, Tel: 562 6060 The official tourist website of Reykjavík The Muslim Association of Iceland, Aðalstræti 2 Avis, Ármúli 38 www.gayice.is Icelandic Travel Market, Knarravogi 2, Tel: 591 4000 Information about the gay scene in Iceland Ásatrú Association, Bankastræti 2 Eurocar, Grandagarði 8 www.fjolmenningarsetur.is Laundry Service Hjallahraun 9, The Multicultural Centre Tel: 565 3800 Bahá’í, HI Hostel, Álfabakka 12 www.hostel.is A.G Car Rental, Hostel International in Iceland Sundlaugarvegur 34, The Church of Evangelism, Tel: 553 8110, www.hostel.is Tangarhöfði 8-12. www.vinnumalastofnun.is Tel: 587 5544 Hlíðasmári 9 Úðafoss, Public employment services Atlas Car Rental, The Icelandic Buddhist Movement,
Classifieds Classified ads are free for individuals! If you want to place a classified ad, email [email protected]
Tel: +354-4831504 | www.husid.com Accommodation Opening hours: 11.00 - 18.00 May 15th - September 15th Hótel Vík or by arrangement. Tel: 588-5588 Email: [email protected] on DVD. www.hotelvik.is Cameraman with 7 years experience in One of the best 3 star hotels in Reykjavík. european television I offer my services for companies or individual who want movies Dimmuborgir Guesthouse on high standards. With friendly prices. Geiteyjarströnd 1, 660 Mývatn Contact at [email protected]. 4644210 [email protected] www.dimmuborgir.is Education: Located right next to the peacefull lake Mývatn, surrounded by Icelands most INTENSIVE ICELANDIC COURSES: I-IV popular wonders of natur, the Dimmubor- Level I: 4 weeks Md-Frd; 18-19:30 gir Guesthouse offers room and nice start 18/8, 15/9. Level II: 7 weeks; Md/ cottages for a resonable price. Wd/Frd; 20-21:30 start 18/8, 6/10. Level III: 10 Gesthús Dúna weeks; Suðurhlíð 35, Tsd/Thrd; 20-21:30 start 23/9, Level IV: 105 Reykjavík 10 weeks; sat/sun 10-11:30 start: 27/9. Tel: 5882100 / Fax: 5882102 School of Icelandic, Ármúli 5, s.5881169. Iceland! Garðastræti 17 101 Reykjavík tel. [email protected], [email protected] www.icetrans.is/ice 551 5445 Opening hours: monday-friday www.islandia.is/duna we have really enjoyed having a car, 12-7, saturday 12-6 B&B ROOMS FROM 5.000.- SLEEPING Qualified English teacher (native British and thereby getting the opportunity to BAG ACCOMMODATION speaker) available for private lessons. get out and see this beautiful coun- Masters Degree Applied Linguistics and try for ourselves. The car is a dark blue, Job needed: TESOL qualified (University of Cambridge). 5-door Mazda 323 from 1997, driven Call Russell 849 7337 or e mail: russellal- For sale: 193.000 km. Recently checked, next check Photographer with experience. Family [email protected] for further details is September 2009. 200.000 ISK. We hope pictures, individual photo shoots, children We are moving abroad and are selling lots others will enjoy our wonderful car after photography, weddings, other memorial of good stuff for cheap prices: Ikea kitchen we have left. Call 8645823 or e-mail: kasu- moments and low price. Please check my Accomodation wanted: table with cabinet and shelves, sofa, TV- [email protected] pictures on http://picasaweb.google.pl/ table on wheels, 4 x black folding chairs, lukaszsalata. Contact at chrumm@interia. My name is Karolina, I’m 20 years old and The monastic shop “Klausturvörur” is a kitchen appliances and more. Please call pl or by phone: 6174321 I’m a student. I was coming on the Iceland store specializing in cosmetics, delicates- 8439126 for two months and I looking for a job. Last sen and artifacts made by nuns and Do you need to keep you memory intact holiday I was working in the room service monks in monasteries across Europe. Herb We will be selling our car in the end of in a professionally way and format? and I was a babysitter. I speak english well. teas, honeys, jams, chocolade, creams, august, as we are moving to Denmark Your weeding, party, business speech or e-mail: [email protected]” then. As foreigners living in Iceland, perfumes, shampoo, soaps - unique in meeting can be professionally recorded September 25 — October 5 2008
Discovery of∫ the year Who will recieve this years “Discovery of the year” award? The official competition of the Reykjavík International
film festival, presented to new or∫ unknown filmmakers. Ticket info: riff.is
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