Costo copertina € 5.00 Direttore responsabile Giuliano Deidda Issue #47 - August 2017 STYLE Q&A FASHION DESIGN THE TOPIC FASHION WHO READS Different Class JONATHAN VIRGIL IT’S A FAMILY JONNY ANDERSON ABLOH AFFAIR PIERCE Cultural Instigator Aesthetics and its new language Family run fashion businesses It is not only a question of fashion Page 14 Page 16 Page 20 Page 64 FASHION&CINEMA INFLUENCER ANTE LITTERAM Suit and polo shirt by Gucci Between vintage and contemporary, between sportswear and luxury Page 40 TREND Private Banker Hevò A style inspired by the most requested professional figure in Italy Page 24 Poste italiane Sped. in A.P. - D.L. 353/2003 conv. L. 46/2004, art. 1, c. DCB Milano 46/2004, L. conv. 353/2003 - D.L. A.P. italiane Sped. in Poste ACCESSORIES Fancy Patterns Sverrir Gudnason e Shia LaBeouf in Borg McEnroe (Photo Courtesy of Lucky Red) oming soon to court, the film is a chance to lose oneself brands, Sergio Tacchini for McEnroe and Boots by Fendi our screens: Borg in the atmosphere of a fascinating era, Fila for Björn Borg. To really understand McEnroe, a Swedish one in which tennis stars were treated just how much of a cult the duo’s style Prints inspired by nature vs film from director the same way rockstars and footballers became, just think how many times over contemporary patterns CJanus Metz Pedersen, telling the story of are today. They filled the tabloids and the next decades, even recently, the Page 50 the rivalry in the seventies between two they were of course true icons of style: two brands have re-edited the polo and super champions of tennis, Björn Borg influencers ante litteram. As can be seen tracksuits worn by the two champions and John McEnroe. As well as the riveting from the picture, the pair’s sponsors were on the winners’ podium. Perhaps for this story of the pair’s battles on and off two well-established Italian sportswear reason the film seems so current. 2 AUGUST 2017 TELA GENOVA REPRODUCES AN HIGH QUALITY PIECE OF ART ACCORDING TO THE TRADITIONAL ITALIAN STYLE. THE SELECTION OF MATERIAL AND AN ACCURATE MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUE MAKE OF EVERY JEANS A VERY FINE EXEMPLAR, UNIQUE AND REVOLUTIONARY IN THE CONTEMPORARY MARKET. ITS HISTORY HAS ALREADY BECOME A MYTH. FASHION ILLUSTRATED AUGUST 2017 3 TELA GENOVA REPRODUCES AN HIGH QUALITY PIECE OF ART ACCORDING TO THE TRADITIONAL ITALIAN STYLE. THE SELECTION OF MATERIAL AND AN ACCURATE MANUFACTURING TECHNIQUE MAKE OF EVERY JEANS A VERY FINE EXEMPLAR, UNIQUE AND REVOLUTIONARY IN THE CONTEMPORARY MARKET. ITS HISTORY HAS ALREADY BECOME A MYTH. FASHION ILLUSTRATED 4 AUGUST 2017 FASHION ILLUSTRATED Editor’s Letter AUGUST 2017 5 Where did the fashion shows go? hat is happening in the world of men’s fashion? I am not referring to the aesthetic side of the matter, but that which is strictly linked to the dynamics of promotion, communication and sales, starting with industry events. What is striking about this Wroundabout of presentations of the men’s collections, starting with London and finishing in New York in July, is in fact the new dimension of Milano Moda Uomo. How did, what had been up to about 10 years ago the main international date for menswear, come to be reduced to three days and today counts more absent excellence than symbolic names of our prêt-à-porter on its calendar? Paradoxically, this has happened in tandem with exponential growth in the Lombardy capital’s international popularity, involving all of the city’s events and shows. Design Week, which registers record breaking numbers of visitors and turnover year after year, is the perfect example of this success. At the opposite end of the spectrum is Pitti Immagine Uomo, which recovers territory every year, thanks to innovative and contemporary proposals, with distinctly international appeal. Of course, it is not possible to make a direct comparison between the two events; the first is three days of runway shows with a plethora of accompanying events and presentations and the other is a trade fair enriched by runway shows and selected events andfollows the philosophy of not quantity but quality. One has to ask if this is not the right formula to give value to menswear, when compared to an industry fashion week: on paper more glamourous but, when all is said and done, empty of surprises. However, when we look abroad, things are not so very different. Apart from Paris, whose menswear week maintains its traditional richness and grandeur with all the established big names, and not only French, within a solid calendar; London and New York, who came later with events linked to men’s fashion, still have difficulty in gaining international appeal. Apart from sporadic participation by some influential designer name, they struggle to involve symbolic industry names in a stable manner. The main reason for this crisis is apparently the choice, made by many, to bring together menswear and womenswear during their respective women’s fashion weeks. It is in many aspects a sensible choice, saving money to be able to invest in a show which is by nature more glamourous. I am asking myself a different question: by so doing won’t men’s ready to wear lose its own identity? FASHION ILLUSTRATED Contributors 6 AUGUST 2017 Special Guest Page Page 20 FASHION WHO READS 12 JONNY PIERCE THE DRUMS Page 22 EMANUELE BASSETTI Scientist of communication and sociologist, TANIA VISHNYAKOVA working in the field of communication and new A degree in business, a Master in Counseling, media, particularly involved in innovation in communicative processes. In academia he has ENRICO MARIA ALBAMONTE owner of the vintage store Vecchiamosca in Born in Rome but based in Milan, collaborated with the University of Bologna for Milan, blogger (amanteperfetta.com) and he is a curious and keen observer the last 11 years lecturing in degree courses on designer of furs and jewellery. Muscovite of trends in fashion and lifestyle international and diplomatic science, sociology by birth, she could have been an engineer phenomena. Over time, he has and communication sciences. At research level or an economist, she is a Parisian spirit matured a personal interest in With The Drums new album, Abysmal he has examined the theme of e-democracy and adopted by Milan. Her style doesn’t follow the world of masculine passions Thoughts, the band’s founder Jonny is the author of one of the first Italian studies on the masses, she sees it as a fascinating and cinema. With a law degree Pierce has made the record he always the social impact of web 2.0 as an instrument of game. Her favourite pastime is to seek out from Università degli Studi di had in his heart. Of course, because they social participation, particularly considering the grandmother’s headscarves and wear them Roma La Sapienza, he has been are The Drums this is a broken heart we new generations (L’ e-democracy per i giovani, with everything. She never leaves home a freelance journalist from 2001 are dealing with, but there is beauty in Franco Angeli, 2010). At a corporate level, he is a without lipstick, vintage glasses and at least and writes about fashion, lifestyle this pain. It is a glorious madness which strategic consultant for branding development one unusual accessory. and the economy for Gruppo manages to absorb everything that with particular reference to internationally leaning Editoriale l’Espresso. life gives us and in spite of everything, public and private enterprise. He is currently manages to emerge triumphant. The collaborating with the Menabò Group for the album’s sound is not entirely abysmal creation of high added value communication given Pierce’s extreme pop talent, and projects, in particular those regarding the fashion also because the message is to imagine sector. for oneself what happiness means once the worst is over. “Happiness confuses me”, says Pierce, “It comes from nowhere and before you can get used to it, it disappears.” After the first cycle of The Drums, which concluded Page 50 with the last album, and the ending of the relationship with his partner, Pierce Page withdrew from music for a while, to be 10 able to re-connect with himself and find Page 64 new inspiration. Determined to make MAURIZIO SAPIA (STUDIO H2O) changes he left New York and isolated Born in Sanremo, after high school himself in a huge Los Angeles apartment. he moved to Milan to do a course in And so the difficulties and internal photography at the IED (European confusion became Abysmal Thoughts, Institute of Design). After his diploma he NICOLA GOBBETTO an undiluted autobiography, with Pierce began his profession as a photographer GIULIO DI SABATO Born in 1980 in Milan, he in total control. In this issue, the artist first as an assistant and then working President of Assomoda since 2003, founder and gained his diploma from the recounts this journey in an interview directly with several magazines both honorary President of Assotemporary, member of the Accademia di Belle Arti di on page. 56, as well as talking about his in Italy and abroad. In collaboration Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. He sits on the Brera. His gallery of reference relationship with fashion as author of with Studio H2O, of which he is one of Consiglio Direttivo of Fnaarc, the most important Italian is Galleria Fonti di Napoli. the column Fashion Who Reads. the founding partners, he is currently organisation for sales agents. He founded Sari Spazio in In 2011 he won the Prada producing photographs and videos 1988, one of the most famous showrooms in Milan.