Costo copertina € 5.00 Direttore responsabile Giuliano Deidda Issue #47 - August 2017

STYLE Q&A FASHION DESIGN THE TOPIC FASHION WHO READS Different Class JONATHAN VIRGIL IT’S A FAMILY JONNY ANDERSON ABLOH AFFAIR PIERCE Cultural Instigator Aesthetics and its new language Family run fashion businesses It is not only a question of fashion

Page 14 Page 16 Page 20 Page 64

FASHION&CINEMA INFLUENCER ANTE LITTERAM

Suit and polo shirt by Gucci

Between vintage and contemporary, between sportswear and luxury Page 40

TREND Private Banker

Hevò A style inspired by the most requested professional figure in Italy Page 24 Poste italiane Sped. in A.P. - D.L. 353/2003 conv. L. 46/2004, art. 1, c. DCB Milano 46/2004, L. conv. 353/2003 - D.L. A.P. italiane Sped. in Poste ACCESSORIES Fancy Patterns

Sverrir Gudnason e Shia LaBeouf in Borg McEnroe (Photo Courtesy of Lucky Red)

oming soon to court, the film is a chance to lose oneself brands, Sergio Tacchini for McEnroe and Boots by Fendi our screens: Borg in the atmosphere of a fascinating era, Fila for Björn Borg. To really understand McEnroe, a Swedish one in which tennis stars were treated just how much of a cult the duo’s style Prints inspired by nature vs film from director the same way rockstars and footballers became, just think how many times over contemporary patterns CJanus Metz Pedersen, telling the story of are today. They filled the tabloids and the next decades, even recently, the Page 50 the rivalry in the seventies between two they were of course true icons of style: two brands have re-edited the polo and super champions of tennis, Björn Borg influencers ante litteram. As can be seen tracksuits worn by the two champions and John McEnroe. As well as the riveting from the picture, the pair’s sponsors were on the winners’ podium. Perhaps for this story of the pair’s battles on and off two well-established Italian sportswear reason the film seems so current. 2 AUGUST 2017

Tela Genova reproduces an hiGh qualiTy piece of arT

accordinG To The TradiTional iTalian sTyle.

The selecTion of maTerial and an accuraTe manufacTurinG

Technique make of every jeans a very fine exemplar,

unique and revoluTionary in The conTemporary markeT.

iTs hisTory has already become a myTh.

FASHION ILLUSTRATED AUGUST 2017 3

Tela Genova reproduces an hiGh qualiTy piece of arT accordinG To The TradiTional iTalian sTyle.

The selecTion of maTerial and an accuraTe manufacTurinG

Technique make of every jeans a very fine exemplar, unique and revoluTionary in The conTemporary markeT. iTs hisTory has already become a myTh.

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED Editor’s Letter AUGUST 2017 5

Where did the fashion shows go?

hat is happening in the world of men’s fashion? I am not referring to the aesthetic side of the matter, but that which is strictly linked to the dynamics of promotion, communication and sales, starting with industry events. What is striking about this Wroundabout of presentations of the men’s collections, starting with London and finishing in New York in July, is in fact the new dimension of Milano Moda Uomo. How did, what had been up to about 10 years ago the main international date for menswear, come to be reduced to three days and today counts more absent excellence than symbolic names of our prêt-à-porter on its calendar? Paradoxically, this has happened in tandem with exponential growth in the Lombardy capital’s international popularity, involving all of the city’s events and shows. Design Week, which registers record breaking numbers of visitors and turnover year after year, is the perfect example of this success. At the opposite end of the spectrum is Pitti Immagine Uomo, which recovers territory every year, thanks to innovative and contemporary proposals, with distinctly international appeal. Of course, it is not possible to make a direct comparison between the two events; the first is three days of runway shows with a plethora of accompanying events and presentations and the other is a trade fair enriched by runway shows and selected events andfollows the philosophy of not quantity but quality. One has to ask if this is not the right formula to give value to menswear, when compared to an industry fashion week: on paper more glamourous but, when all is said and done, empty of surprises. However, when we look abroad, things are not so very different. Apart from Paris, whose menswear week maintains its traditional richness and grandeur with all the established big names, and not only French, within a solid calendar; London and New York, who came later with events linked to men’s fashion, still have difficulty in gaining international appeal. Apart from sporadic participation by some influential designer name, they struggle to involve symbolic industry names in a stable manner. The main reason for this crisis is apparently the choice, made by many, to bring together menswear and womenswear during their respective women’s fashion weeks. It is in many aspects a sensible choice, saving money to be able to invest in a show which is by nature more glamourous. I am asking myself a different question: by so doing won’t men’s ready to wear lose its own identity?

FASHION ILLUSTRATED Contributors 6 AUGUST 2017

Special Guest Page Page 20 FASHION WHO READS 12 JONNY PIERCE THE DRUMS Page 22

EMANUELE BASSETTI Scientist of communication and sociologist, TANIA VISHNYAKOVA working in the field of communication and new A degree in business, a Master in Counseling, media, particularly involved in innovation in communicative processes. In academia he has ENRICO MARIA ALBAMONTE owner of the vintage store Vecchiamosca in Born in Rome but based in Milan, collaborated with the University of Bologna for Milan, blogger (amanteperfetta.com) and he is a curious and keen observer the last 11 years lecturing in degree courses on designer of furs and jewellery. Muscovite of trends in fashion and lifestyle international and diplomatic science, sociology by birth, she could have been an engineer phenomena. Over time, he has and communication sciences. At research level or an economist, she is a Parisian spirit matured a personal interest in With The Drums new album, Abysmal he has examined the theme of e-democracy and adopted by Milan. Her style doesn’t follow the world of masculine passions Thoughts, the band’s founder Jonny is the author of one of the first Italian studies on the masses, she sees it as a fascinating and cinema. With a law degree Pierce has made the record he always the social impact of web 2.0 as an instrument of game. Her favourite pastime is to seek out from Università degli Studi di had in his heart. Of course, because they social participation, particularly considering the grandmother’s headscarves and wear them Roma La Sapienza, he has been are The Drums this is a broken heart we new generations (L’ e-democracy per i giovani, with everything. She never leaves home a freelance journalist from 2001 are dealing with, but there is beauty in Franco Angeli, 2010). At a corporate level, he is a without lipstick, vintage glasses and at least and writes about fashion, lifestyle this pain. It is a glorious madness which strategic consultant for branding development one unusual accessory. and the economy for Gruppo manages to absorb everything that with particular reference to internationally leaning Editoriale l’Espresso. life gives us and in spite of everything, public and private enterprise. He is currently manages to emerge triumphant. The collaborating with the Menabò Group for the album’s sound is not entirely abysmal creation of high added value communication given Pierce’s extreme pop talent, and projects, in particular those regarding the fashion also because the message is to imagine sector. for oneself what happiness means once the worst is over. “Happiness confuses me”, says Pierce, “It comes from nowhere and before you can get used to it, it disappears.” After the first cycle of The Drums, which concluded Page 50 with the last album, and the ending of the relationship with his partner, Pierce Page withdrew from music for a while, to be 10 able to re-connect with himself and find Page 64 new inspiration. Determined to make MAURIZIO SAPIA (STUDIO H2O) changes he left New York and isolated Born in Sanremo, after high school himself in a huge Los Angeles apartment. he moved to Milan to do a course in And so the difficulties and internal photography at the IED (European confusion became Abysmal Thoughts, Institute of Design). After his diploma he NICOLA GOBBETTO an undiluted autobiography, with Pierce began his profession as a photographer GIULIO DI SABATO Born in 1980 in Milan, he in total control. In this issue, the artist first as an assistant and then working President of Assomoda since 2003, founder and gained his diploma from the recounts this journey in an interview directly with several magazines both honorary President of Assotemporary, member of the Accademia di Belle Arti di on page. 56, as well as talking about his in Italy and abroad. In collaboration Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana. He sits on the Brera. His gallery of reference relationship with fashion as author of with Studio H2O, of which he is one of Consiglio Direttivo of Fnaarc, the most important Italian is Galleria Fonti di Napoli. the column Fashion Who Reads. the founding partners, he is currently organisation for sales agents. He founded Sari Spazio in In 2011 he won the Prada producing photographs and videos 1988, one of the most famous showrooms in Milan. Over Manga Contest and in 2012 for numerous brands and magazines, the years, he has developed a significant distribution made the animated short mainly but not exclusively linked to and representation business, not only on Italian and film “The Golden Fish” for fashion. Parallel to this commercial European soil, but also in the continuously growing Vogue.it. His research weaves activity, over the years he has developed markets of the Middle and Far East, CSI and Russia and around fantastic narrative, his own artistic research, which, Eastern European countries, enlarging his business and myths and legends, magic and supported by art galleries, has brought developing a distribution network in over 50 countries esotericism. Metamorphosis him to show his work in numerous worldwide. and transformation are the group and personal exhibitions. key words for his artistic production which embraces divers experimental techniques.

Editorial Director www.fashionillustrated.eu MARCO POLI Publishing House [email protected] MILANO FASHION LIBRARY Via Alessandria, 8 - 20144 Milano - Tel. +39 0258153208 Editor in Chief GIULIANO DEIDDA Chairman [email protected] DIEGO VALISI [email protected] Art Director FABRIZIO MAJERNA Assistant Publisher [email protected] PRASANNA CONTI [email protected] Editorial Staff FRANCESCA MANUZZI Advertising ANNA PAOLA STRONA Via Alessandria, 8 [email protected] 20144 Milano Tel. +39 0258153208 Contributors ENRICO MARIA ALBAMONTE, EMANUELE BASSETTI, Distribuzione Italia ALBERTO CORRADO, TANYA DOUBLEDAY-RUDKIN m-dis S.p.A. Distribuzione Media S.p.A (TRANSLATIONS), NICOLA GOBBETTO, CESARE MEDRI, Via C. Cazzaniga, 19 STUDIO H2O, TANIA VISHNYAKOVA 20132 Milano Tel. 0225821 Fax 0225825306 Editorial Office [email protected] Corso Colombo 7 All rights reserved©/The material on this magazine may not be 20144 Milano reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, Tel. +39 0287365694 except with the prior written permission of Fashion Illustrated.

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED Contents 8 AUGUST 2017 10 HIGHLIGHTS 1 STYLE TIPS By Editorial Staff 14 Q&A JONATHAN ANDERSON By Francesca Manuzzi 16 PROFILE VIRGIL ABLOH By Alberto Corrado 20 THE TOPIC IT’S A FAMILY AFFAIR By Emanuele Bassetti 22 FASHION E CINEMA WEARABLE TECHNOLOGIES FOR AN UNKNOWN FUTURE By Enrico Maria Albamonte 24 TREND PRIVATE BANKER By Francesca Manuzzi 26 S/S 2018 YUCCIE A.K.A. YOUNG URBAN CREATIVES By Francesca Manuzzi 28 RESORT 2018 SPRING TOP 6 By Anna Paola Strona 32 SCOUTING LABELS TO WATCH By Anna Paola Strona 36 EXHIBITION THE FLEETING MUSEUM By Francesca Manuzzi 36 DIFFERENT CLASS STYLE Giuliano Deidda PHOTOGRAPHY Cesare Medri 40 FANCY PATTERNS STYLE Anna Paola Strona PHOTOGRAPHY H2O 50 HIGHLIGHTS 2 LIFESTYLE By Editorial Staff 62 DESTINATION LIGURIA: AN UNFORGETTABLE DAY By Editorial Staff 64 FASHION WHO READS IT IS NOT ONLY A Pringle of Scotland, moodboard della collezione primavera estate 2018 QUESTION OF FASHION By Jonny Pierce

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED Highlights 1 10 AUGUST 2017 STYLE TIPS

TESSUTI DI SONDRIO THE NEW GEOGRAPHY OF MALE FASHION Synonymous with cotton, it is a unique and exceptional company built from culture, history and land, which sinks deep roots into its namesake town in the Italian Alps. The company was actually started in Switzerland at the end of the 19th century by the weavers Spelty and Keller. To avoid onerous Swiss BY GIULIO DI SABATO taxes, they decided to move to Italy, making Sondrio their headquarters. FOUNDER OF Sari Spazio In the following year, the company was taken over by the Fossati family and the factory registered significant growth thanks to financial development bringing about an increase in the size of the area This year, once again at the start of a new summer dedicated to weaving. Thus, in the middle of the 1900’s the company was able to guarantee work for sales campaign, we are confronted with great fervour over 50% of the population who worked for them in manufacturing. and interesting proposals from the many brands who After the flourishing Fossati period, the structure came into the hands of ENI, thereby becoming a populate the world of men’s fashion, many of whom parastatal company. After the decision of the Italian State to break up manufacturing structures, will be presenting their creations at the upcoming Pitti Cotone di Sondrio, as was the company’s name at the time, during the second half of the 20th century Uomo in Florence. As far as Sari Spazio’s turnover is was absorbed by Marzotto capital. The European leader in the textiles industry saw in the Valtellinese concerned, men’s fashion represents around 50%. There cotton an extremely rare and unique opportunity; what most took the eye of the Counts of Valdagno is an ongoing tendency to create products which put was in particular the type of territory. Sondrio is in fact in a rather unusual area in so much as it manufacturing and design together, proposing clothing is completely outside any textile district, but it does have a special characteristic: water. This is an and accessories which exist between history and the element which is industry fundamental for the whole of the textile industry, but most of all for cotton. It avant garde. Spring Summer 2018 reaffirms denim for is actually the famous Alpine water which allows Sondrio to obtain such exclusive and precious fabrics. men with the luxury world of Jacob Cohen, athleisure With this rich background, Tessuti di Sondrio was able to demonstrate its value in a world market which takes from the world of sport inserting details, which recognises and respects it as the queen of cotton. A crown which Sondrio is able to wear thanks colours and big printed logos. There are sneakers in to efforts across the board in innovation; on the one hand large investments into research with the worked and refined leathers, such as those by Golden Tessuti di Sondrio, Dalsasso and Igloo and on the other the updating of the factory, with exclusive avant Goose Deluxe Brand and Studswar which reconfirm garde machinery. It is enough to refer to the latest arrival – named Aquasoft, a prototype machine built the image of the modern dandy and the contemporary as a worldwide exclusive for the company. This technological pearl is able to create a handle to fabrics turned towards a very young clientele evermore on the which is unique and simulates the precious Italian tradition of washing at the wash house. lookout for innovative and seriously trendy clothes. This This is only one example of the attention to culture which Sondrio weaves into the warp and weft of season, on behalf of Sari Spazio, I was able to close deals fabrics which are presented to the panorama of men’s fashion during only the most important trade with extremely high end brands both from an innovative fairs and the foremost events. Latest of these was Milano Unica, the last edition saw an impressive and qualitative stand point, from high-tech textiles to the effort on the part of the factory, due above all to the date being brought forward by almost two months contemporary, taking in luxury and sartorial creations compared to the traditional calendar. This effort was repaid with the presence of almost 400 brands with brands such as Esemplare, a leading company for and over 1200 visitors only three days. To amaze and attract visitors was the industrial style display: refined outerwear and Tonello,a contemporary product pipes, beams and other structures created a frame for high-end suits, jackets and trousers made using from a great artisanal structure. My mission, as I take the best fabrics from the company by the elite of men’s fashion. care of markets ranging from the Middle East to the Far East and all of the eastern countries, is that of finding Another of Tessuti di Sondrio’s priorities is of course, social and environmental awareness, this has brands to satisfy the tastes of the most important become a keystone for the company and is recognized and guaranteed by Bureau Veritas della SA 8000 retailers in the world. The selection of new brands in and ISO14001. fact takes into consideration our clients’ requests both from the point of view of taste and from that of the fit taking into account that the Russian man has a style in this sense which is very different to the Asian one.

ALLEGRI It is a precise direction, the one taken by Allegri for the Spring Summer collection 2018 presented at Pitti Uomo. Matteo Zara, brand manager, explains the details: “Since last season we have begun a collaboration with two designers: Leonardo Fasolo who takes care of research and experiment and Andrea Mazzanti hired to give value to the brand’s heritage. This season we have dedicated a part of the collection to garment dyeing, proposed in special nylons with polyurethane treatments distinguished by 3d colour. I call it tech-elegance; it is a city-wearer’s product and is typical of the technological side of Allegri. With these proposals, the colour range increases too. The rest of the collection under Andrea Mazzanti, follows the line of “contemporary heritage.” Furthermore, the brand has in reserve important news for the near future. Zara goes on to say: “We are closing the contract for a licensing deal for a women’s collection with an important company, still top secret. The first capsule for Spring Summer 2018 is being worked on now. Our plan is to have four collections per year. The company is very interested in opening up to licensing deals. What we will control is the coherence between brand and distribution. The women’s collection will rejuvenate the brand’s image. We are thinking of involving an important designer, but for the moment I can’t say any more than that”.

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED Highlights 1 12 AUGUST 2017 STYLE TIPS

L’UOMO MILANESE BY TANIA VISHNYAKOVA

When I think about the Milanese man’s style, I immediately think about Marcello Mastroianni, even if he isn’t exactly Milanese with his way of rolling up his trousers French style and then imagine the casual elegance of Richard Gere and his male sensuality in American Gigolò, dressed by Giorgio Armani. Two male icons so diverse and yet so similar. When I arrived in this city I fell immediately in love with the Milanese man’s way of doing things, I was about to faint when I saw someone wearing ‘50’s style ankle length trousers and shoes and no socks as well as a white shirt with rolled up sleeves. To summarize, to my eyes the Milanese man is a little bourgeois and a little Hapsburghian, absolutely metropolitan style a little cold outwardly but with an innate tendency to dress well. Tradition dictates that the Milanese man seems to behave in a way which in slang is called ‘sprezzatura’ a term which denotes studied carelessness, a little tousled but also a little British, a little bit dandy and care taken over every least detail. Congenital good dressing knows how to be chic in an ironic way, dares, tries out colourful socks and a jeans shirt with a classic jacket on top et voilà! Oh! I almost forgot, he likes pochettes and rigorously hand-made Hermes shoes. Notwithstanding my passion for retro I took a peek at the latest high end trends from the runway and I noticed the autumn winter collection from Salvatore Ferragamo, pure class, where modern elegance meets classic tailoring using researched fabrics. An almost Nordic man, but not at all cold is the one proposed by Miuccia Prada, dressed in velvet, flannel and wool, an urban style with a hint of the past. A little seventies and a slight air of bourgeois Milan. To conclude, a little light-hearted post scriptum: now that it is hot in the city I suggest a nice Panama hat, an Ungaro white shirt and a pair of linen trousers and very fashionable raffia shoes. Only however if you’re not in the office. And forget about Hawaian colours, let’s leave those to Caribbean dances. Don’t say no to a beautiful watch which reflects your personality or even a beautiful piece of natural colour palette scattered with British inspired touches of green. jewellery or a bracelet with the Paul Hewitt anchor. This links the warm chromatic group to the series of blue and azures.

Remember that trends anticipate and burn out. Style remains. What are your next steps? We want to create a complete style, we don’t set ourselves any limits. We Your Russian girl. have several ideas, from a women’s capsule to furniture. Everything is planned, but we will take it one step at a time. This year there will be in fact, an investment in outerwear. This starts with the summer collection and it will be significantly developed with Autumn Winter 2018.

INTERVIEW WITH PIER PAOLO PENNESI, BRAND MANAGER OF ROYAL ROW

How did Royal Row begin? It was founded two and a half years ago, or rather, five seasons ago. The logo is inspired by British sartorial style. The word Row in fact does hark to Saville Row on the one hand and on the other it means rank. The brand is intended for a selected and refined rank of people, obviously not regal in the strict sense of the word. It is a collection intended to dress a man throughout his day and week, and we suggest different selections: bespoke, black tie, business and performance.

You come from an international background. How does this translate into Royal Row style? Certainly, my collaborations with English designers have defined my vision of style, my way of constructing a piece anda collection. The experience which most cleared my mind as to what I wanted to propose was working with Alexander McQueen.

Who is the Royal Row man? I would define him as forever thirty. The sector of thirty-year-old professionals is the most suitable but naturally it can go further, up to sixty. The important thing is to continue to have a thirty-year-old’s attention to style.

Let’s talk about distribution. The collection is well distributed in Asia; above all in China, in Japan – our main markets – and in South Korea. Followed closely by Northern Europe and Italy.

Tell us about the Spring Summer 2018 collection, present at Pitti Immagine Uomo. The new collection is called African Memories. We imagined an urban man who has travelled to Africa. We used a warm and

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED Q.&A. 14 AUGUST 2017 FASHION DESIGN JONATHAN ANDERSON CULTURAL INSTIGATOR BY FRANCESCA MANUZZI

Portrait of Jonathan Anderson (photo Scott Trindle)

is fashion is intimate but shouts out and has made clamorous reviews across the world. Jonathan Anderson, from Northern Ireland, is at the head of JW Anderson and Loewe, the Spanish brand belonging to LVMH, a crowd agitator a cultural instigator, who manages to photograph the Hmoments in history, lived by society. He is a hot name, so hot that Pitti Immagine Uomo chose him as special guest for the 92nd edition. His collections which are social snapshots as fast as Instagram’s 3.0 are considered so that, first of all he himself, is not bored, as he tells us in this interview.

What does being a hot ticket mean? Can you feel it? I don’t shy away from it (laughs). It will probably be because I give 100% to everything I do.

Tell us about the Florence show. JW Anderson menswear is celebrating 10 years. We presented a new direction for the brand, an easy canvas with a relaxed attitude. And the location we chose, Villa La Pietra, was absolutely perfect for this, so cinematographic slightly romantic. It is a calm and spell-binding place. It seemed perfect for us to show in Italy, with this collection in particular, which represents a change in atmosphere. It is a great moment for us, we are also collaborating with an artist.

What is the moodboard of your life? Lucie Rie, Virginia Woolf, Barbara Hepworth, Anthea Hamilton, Magali Reus, Vanessa Bell, Duncan Grant, the sculptures of Richard Tuttle, John Ward, Harry Napper, Rihanna, A$AP Rocky… (laughs). It is fairly eclectic.

What is your creative vision? Fashion is an archetype. When you work, you try to make a silhouette, this is something akin to building a palace because you are creating a new structure and you are using a fabric which is to be cut in a completely mathematical way. What guides me is the idea of seeking something new in terms of proportions and I do it in a very compulsive way. When I fall in love with something it becomes an obsession. My only dependency is to live the sensation of this process.

And your most revolutionary idea? I don’t want to talk about radical revolutions, about breaking points. We showed lace shirts less than 5 years ago and the reviews were so terrible that I thought the next Backstage runway shows day: “This isn’t working perhaps I should give up fashion.” It is possible that society Autumn Winter 2017 wasn’t ready, or that my concept was too hardcore and not sufficiently sophisticated. (photo Daisy Walker) Or perhaps both. But when I look back, I realize that that show was probably the most meaningful I ever did. It talked about gender confusion, which is now the order of the day, and as a designer, my job is to reflect on what is happening today. What fascinates me most is asking myself how this reflects on the clothes. What does a lace or a silk mean? What represents a man or a woman?

And what does the word originality mean? At the precise moment in which your brand is predictable, you have to move at the speed at which the world evolves and today it is very fast. We live in an era of content. We put something on Instagram, it is reposted straight away and is immediately everywhere and the next minute it has disappeared, it’s over. And let’s be honest I don’t see this as a negative thing because it is the same way my brain works. It is not only about preventing the customers from becoming bored, the first person who mustn’t get tired of it is me.

Where will you be in 5 years time? I will be amplifying the force of JW Anderson as a cultural agitator.

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED Profile 16 AUGUST 2017 FASHION DESIGN VIRGIL ABLOH AESTHETICS AND ITS NEW LANGUAGE BY ALBERTO CORRADO

Visionary sensitivity, marketing contaminated by architecture and a passion for fashion as fil rouge. These are the elements which pervade the work of Virgil Abloh, the multifaceted creative, guest at the latest Pitti Immagine Uomo edition.

Portrait of Virgil Abloh

n a present day which changes from one minute to the next, the rules cannot stay immutable. The innovators draw conclusions from the past, throw open their visions of the future and take suggestions from them. Because nothing can be as it was before. Virgil Abloh – the singular figure Iof communicator, designer, very digital story teller –unites to the fascination of creation, a love for fashion and, in particular, knowing how to mix up the traditional hierarchies between fashion and streetwear. From this union comes a mix of aesthetic sensitivity and marketing, tinged with the schizophrenia of architecture which led him, in 2013, to launch Milan based Off-White™, which has men’s and women’s collections, a line of objects and interior design elements and a series of extraordinary publications. Since its launch, Off-WhiteTM has attracted a phenomenal following. As well as 569.000 followers on Instagram to add to the 600.000 of the founder’s personal profile, it has carved out a moment for itself in Paris Fashion Week’s official calendar. The brand, which was classed as a finalist for the 2015 LVMH prize, today employs fourteen people and can count on an elite distribution network. With the temperament of a poet, he started out with a creative collective reminiscent of Bauhaus, going on to collaborate with numerous artists of the calibre of Nick Knight, Riccardo Tisci, Kim Jones, Takashi Murakami, Olivier Rousteing, Giuseppe Zanotti and George Condo and he has worked with Silvia Venturini at Fendi. “The drive of my life is passion in what I do, shining a light on my courage to face the world”, declares Virgil. “From when I was a boy, I knew what I wanted, this is why I left Illinois to study architecture, always carried forward by an incredible passion and by the hope of becoming someone. After many years, I went back to those places to meet up again with people I care about and my family and I was proud to say that I had become what I had said I would.” In a short space of time he wins Kanye West’s trust, becoming creative director and visual artist, and creates for him five covers for the album My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy. “Kanye’s music is the idealisation of oneself like the egoistic, emotive gesture of a personality as revolutionary as my own, this is why I thought I would be able to collaborate, to express two parallel versions in the research into this expansion through the union of music and art.” Interpreter of so called design thinking, that is to say of the experimental faculty of choosing and combining aesthetic surroundings, languages and services, he is the author of collections where the key element of every single piece is contained in fabrics and technical details, shiny PVC, thermo-applied reflective materials, zips with a personalized pull-tag recalling the easy puller of wetsuits, deconstructed clothes and off-kilter silhouettes. Tapes and lazer-cuts abound. The recognisability factor is determined by the logo of the brand applied onto various models, often placed very visibly along the length of the sleeve. Cover of My Beautiful Dark Twisted Fantasy “When I thought about the Conversazioni con Caravaggio collection, I thought straight by Kanye West away about the contrast between light and dark within Caravaggio’s canvasses and the suggestive counter-positioning of the dark and light of a painting style which makes the implicit and the explicit talk chromatically, and by the fascinating and violent modulation of the shadows and the vital ascensions. These thoughts gave rise to a collection of sweatshirts and T-shirts with prints on the front and diagonal stripes on the back and on the sleeves, with a street feel to them. If I have become what I am (they say an artist), the reason lies in what I think and do.” Off-White collection Conversazioni con Caravaggio His debut at Pitti Uomo 92 was much awaited, on the evening of the 16th of June in the splendid architectural frame of Piazza Pitti. “It is with great honour that I presented my work for the first time at Pitti Immagine Uomo,” says Virgil Abloh, “a platform among the most important which has marked the history of fashion over the years.” A once in a lifetime opportunity which didn’t escape him. The perfect example of the interdisciplinary revolution underway in communication and in the fashion markets, which abandons the centric economic version of capitalism which is being re-scaled world-wide, to leave a place for a general concept based on talent and on the free flow of expressions and aspirations.

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED 18 AUGUST 2017

Your office in Milan The ideal place for meetings, press days, sales campaignes and temporary showroom.

Within the picturesque location of Milan Fashion Library in Milan in Tortona/Navigli/Darsena area.

The location has 6 indipendent spaces in a 1500 mq area available by reservation: Meeting rooms • Kitchen and Living • Cinema • Library with over than 68.000 magazines

ARE INCLUDED: secretarial service • postal address • wifi

For more info [email protected] tel. + 39 02 83311200 www.milanofashionlibrary.it

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED The Topic 20 AUGUST 2017 FASHION SOCIOLOGY IT’S A FAMILY AFFAIR BY EMANUELE BASSETTI Family run businesses are still key players in a fashion system which is hungry for coherent, solid companies respectful of their own heritage

The Missoni family: Jennifer, Angela, Ottavio, Margherita Maccapani Missoni Amos, Rosita, Marco, Luca, Teresa Maccapani Missoni, Giacomo and Francesco Maccapani Missoni

f over the course of the last decades some analysts have called into question the capability of family-controlled companies to survive the complexities of globalisation, examining the fashion system one is forced to think again. Not only are many companies still headed by the founder or Iby his heirs, they are also able to garner incredible success, but the actual traditional family structure itself has been shown to be an exceptional business instrument, particularly appreciated by both clients and the world of finance. This is shown by brands such as Missoni, Armani, Ermenegildo Zegna, Salvatore Ferragamo, Brunello Cucinelli and Versace, family players of the first order in their sector and capable of exploding any commonly held belief about the matter. What are the strong points which continue to make this type of governance so efficient and profitable? Firstly, the visceral care of the company, a real and integral part of the family which founded it. It is not surprising that the owners are disposed to make important sacrifices to be able to guarantee the best for their ‘child’. This behaviour, although fundamentally guided by personal interests, facilitates far-reaching entrepreneurial decisions. As, for example, does close attention to financial aspects and long term growth, whereas businesses in the orbit of large holdings ever more often aim for short term results (strictly linked to their wages) and push the company to frequent and massive debt. The latter is a choice that is a long way from that held by those who intend to responsibly leave a consolidated and time-coherent business to the family, thanks to a strong link with tradition, employees and the territory of origin. A coherence favoured also by the frequent use of family members as company icons, giving life not only to solid names but also difficult to imitate and perfectly Donatella Versace positioned in the minds of consumers. (photo Rahi Rezvani) These are important plusses for Made in Italy, considering that in Italian fashion four out of five businesses (with turnover of more than 20 million euro) are under family control and also record more consistent invoiced growth than that due to different governance, with less debt and greater number of hirings (Osservatorio AUB data). Because of this, over the next years it will be fundamental to maintain their competitivity high, pushing aside problems created by generational passage. How to do this? Investing heavily in internal coordination, more difficult to establish Kean, Jacopo, Veronica e Ippolito Etro the more numerous the family at the head becomes. Respecting tradition, without turning away innovation. Counting on the exuberance of youth, tempered with the respect of the company’s founding values. Lastly giving the heirs the managerial competencies necessary to face a globalized market. These are important challenges for Italian companies such as Rubelli, Etro, Bisazza and Albini Group, whose leadership has passed from generation to generation for a long time and with great success. Confirming that betting on the family is, not only good social practice, but may also constitute an efficient mode of conducting one’s business, preferring long term results, brand coherence and management continuity. Aspects which are appreciated, not only by clients, but also by international investors evermore irritated the continuous and often imprudent managerial changes which globalisation is sadly accustomising us to.

The Cucinelli family: Carolina, Camilla, Federica and Brunello

FASHION ILLUSTRATED AUGUST 2017 21

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED Trend 22 AUGUST 2017 FASHION E CINEMA WEARABLE TECHNOLOGIES FOR AN UNKNOWN FUTURE

BY ENRICO MARIA ALBAMONTE

Michael Fassbender in Alien: Covenant (Photo Courtesy of 20th Century Fox)

Ryan Gosling in Blade Runner 2049 (Photo Courtesy of Warner Bros. Pictures)

Scarlett Johansson in Ghost in the Shell (Photo Courtesy of Universal Pictures)

he age-old question “Where do we come from?”, more practical and scientific than existential, continues to beleaguer us. Science fiction, often with mysterious, macabre or shocking undertones throws up evermore worrying questions which urge answers. Like that to the question: “How Twill we dress on spaceships or on a mission to Mars?” From cinema to fashion, there has been a succession of recalls and affinities, seeking to propose plausible solutions to digital civilizations and to provide wearable technologies, able to protect us from lunar storms and any other extraterrestrial incidents we could be exposed to. Chris Pratt and Jennifer Lawrence wear very glamourous clothes on the completely forgotten spaceship, almost at the limits of the basic catwalk wardrobe (the costume designer could have been a designer for Calvin Klein), in Passengers, distributed by Warner Bros. Activewear and the planning of future-leaning clothes take ideas from the workshops of the future (following laws of ideas worked on and developed in an updated imagined space age) new experimentation and bizarre clothing based on technologies projected into the future. With monsters and incurable sickness from hyperspace, another film explores the new frontiers of wearable technology and experimentation into shape and fabrics: this is LIFE distributed by Warner Bros. Here, costume design is less fashionable and more pragmatic and the looks are presented in flameproof fabrics, with a plethora of attached machines and lifesaving gadgets. And what about Alien:Covenant, directed by Ridley Scott, the last episode of the most famous science fiction horror ever? At the beginning of 1979, as Lieutenant Ellen Ripley appeared on screen for the first time in the first Alien film, the vest T-shirt for women had a boom moment, indicating how sportswear and the extraterrestrial look Ryan Reynolds in Life. (Photo Courtesy of Sony Pictures) are evermore related. Distributed by 20th Century Fox, the sixth episode of the series shows Michael Fassbender as an android wrapped in a sheath which looks like a wetsuit. A sensual sheath, however, almost like a second skin, the one worn by Scarlett Johansson in various scenes from Ghost in The Shell, distributed by Universal Pictures International, where the actress transforms herself into a futuristic manga heroine in 3D. Meanwhile, we await Blade Runner 2049, the epic sequel to the 80’s film, produced here by Ridley Scott, distributed by Warner Bros. and starring an everlasting Harrison Ford and the cool American actor Ryan Gosling. Let’s wait for this new blockbuster to be able to decide which look to choose for a not too distant future.

FASHION ILLUSTRATED AUGUST 2017 23

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED Trend 24 AUGUST 2017 S/S 2018 PRIVATE BANKER BY FRANCESCA MANUZZI

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED Trend 26 AUGUST 2017 S/S 2018 YUCCIE A.K.A. YOUNG URBAN CREATIVES BY FRANCESCA MANUZZI

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED Trend 28 AUGUST 2017 RESORT 2018 SPRING TOP 6

BY ANNA PAOLA STRONA

Guccify Yourself Gucci’s cruise collection takes its inspiration from ancient cultures, from the Greek and Roman up to the Renaissance. A decidedly visionary line sees models decorated with gold laurel leaf coronets, in a kaleidoscopic mix of antiquity and rock ‘n’ roll details. Alessandro Michele, at the helm of the Florentine brand, turns everything on its head again, re-interpreting it in an unusual and contemporary way. It could be Graffiti Style called Guccification, a chaotic and creative Versus Versace’s style takes inspiration style, which prefers precious fabrics, like from the street, creating a play on silk and fur, combined with denim, jersey contrasts both for silhouette and fabric and PVC. Pijamas worn with long jackets, and colour combinations. Hip Hop used denim embellished with embroidered and graffiti culture is seen on logo’ed florals, right up to slogan prints and logos. sweatshirts, in fact Versus features Accessories have always had a key role several times on T-shirts and jackets at Gucci, Beatles boots, long boots and whilst prints display the fluorescent slippers trimmed with fur, velvet bags with colours of the ‘80’s. Shapes are inspired chains and maxi handbags in crocodile and by activewear and play with the idea of imposing jewels, even for men. uniform, contrasting with masculine suits and more slim fitting silhouette. The accessories have essential lines in contrast with strong colours, bags and rucksacks, made in technical fabric, are capacious, berets have logos and sneakers and moccasins have Silver Age contrasting soles. Paul Surridge has only just arrived at the head of the Roberto Cavalli lines and his main task will be the relaunching of the Just Cavalli brand. This collection takes up the brand’s DNA in a significant way, New Basic the baroque details, the animal prints and For Bottega Veneta, Tomas Maier presents floral motifs all exalt its glam-rock spirit. a collection which is distinguished by Total black is enriched with luminous and saturated colours and elaborate details. metallic details, even for men, whilst fabrics Proportions are decisive, whilst fabrics, are both enveloping and sinuous. This is a consistencies and colours are combined in versatile collection, distinguished by its slim a discrete high impact way. Fabrics such as silhouette, slim fit trousers and slim waisted nappa leather and calf suede are declined jackets, contrasting with soft sportswear in neutral tones allied to brights. Materials, cut bomber jackets. Details are incredibly which when sewn together create textures important: embroidery, studs and zips make which are at once extremely soft and each piece unique and unusual. versatile, together with more sumptuous materials such as cashmere. The majority of the collection pieces are made up in cotton drill and poplin, triacetate crêpe and jersey, and have a fluid and airy aspect, thanks to the excellence of the tailored cut. Great research and attention form the basis for accessories, Welcome to The Jungle from two-tone document folders to the many Philipp Plein showed at his home, in toned brick rucksack and super capacious the hills behind Cannes, at the aptly sacks. Footwear is all in white calf and the named La Jungle du Roi. For this chosen styles are moccasins and sneakers. resort collection Plein is inspired by the jungle environment, even though the street-style spirit, the brand’s DNA, is always present. This influence has many facets, it can be a romantic or mysterious place, but it is also dangerous at the same time. Cult Seven Nation Army clothes like hooded sweatshirts and Innovation and quality are the key words to best biker jackets are re-imagined, using describe Tomas Maier’s resort collection. A basic denim and leather, embellished with colour palette ranging from neutral tones to blue, also designs, embroideries and couture offers a military green. The collection is made up of rips. The resort also has a small versatile pieces which constitute the perfect, always- capsule, designed by the famous travelling, globetrotting wardrobe. Patterns used for street artist Alec Monopoly. Alec jackets, shirts and trousers are an unusual camouflage: X Plein is made up of sweatshirts, a re-worked and stylized pattern which interrupts the jackets and customized tracksuits monochromatic line up of the looks. It is a carefree way with prints or handpainting with the of dressing, made of easily mixed together pieces. The artist’s tag. cotton cargo trousers are combined with knitwear, or the leather bomber jacket, whilst outerwear in technical fabrics become transformable thanks to double face workings.

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED 30 AUGUST 2017

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED Focus 32 AUGUST 2017 SCOUTING LABELS TO WATCH

BY ANNA PAOLA STRONA

Mr. Blackout Two companies, founded in Puglia and in Spain, a trip to the most difficult areas of the world and now the launch of a new project in fashion. Mr. Blackout is the brand of T-shirts which bear the names of difficult areas in the world and tell the stories of personal blackouts. Its creator, Nicola Russi, is a 28 year old young entrepreneur who has worked in the retail sector, taking care of marketing and communication for an international leather goods company and then moving back to Foggia, his birthplace, where he started up a company in the olive oil export industry. With this chapter over, he left for Barcelona where he opened a restaurant in the heart of the city. Nicola wanted to tell us about his business experiences: starting from Southern Italy up to the Spanish city, which have seen him as a protagonist in different sectors, because it is these experiences which have brought him to create Mr. Blackout. The line has five styles, all Made in Italy by factories with a strong work ethic, all the while maintaining accessible costs. The prints consist of images and illustrations of skulls, which represent difficult areas of the world such as Nyanga (Cape Town), Kamagasaki (Okasa), Tepito (Mexivco City), Brixton (London) and Forcella (Naples). The skull becomes thereby a representation of difficulty but also the beginning of a rebirth after one’s own blackout.

Bad Deal An ideal of fashion which comes closer to an artistic movement than it does to a simple fashion brand. Zoow24 and Marina Rubini founded Bad Deal defining it as “an aesthetic incident between metropolitan tunnel and a rose garden”. A line which mixes street art, underground culture and sportswear, to create collections with a metropolitan soul, thanks to prints and chromatic contrasts. Bad Deal took part in the final of the 9th edition of Who is on Next? Uomo 2017, the scouting project organized by Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery and promoted in collaboration with Altaroma and L’Uomo Vogue. Bad Deal spring summer 2018 is inspired by a confrontation with the immobility of city monuments and the fleeting train, which passes through without stopping at the platform. The unexpected upturns established rules, giving life to original and hyper-contemporary clothes, with minimalist lines, reworked in a new way using cuts and layers, rips and sutures, classic materials, alongside technical fabrics such as nylon and gabardine, cotton and vinyl or denim and sponge. Francesca Rainoldi presents Alea Francesca Rainoldi was born in Rome in 1994. Her training began in London, where she attended a course in illustration, photography and design at The School of Central Saint Martins. At nineteen she decided to return to Rome and begin a course as fashion editor at the Istituto Europeo di Design. Not long afterwards, she founded her brand Francesca Rainoldi, her idea being to give shape to a bag which could change according to the needs of the AirDP Style wearer, this is the concept behind Alea. Francesca, always AirDP Style is a concept brand brought about by the four versatile minds of Lele Danzi, Paola Froldi, Antonio paying a great deal of attention to detail and to Made in Italy, Cavazzini and Alessandro Del Piero. Its characteristics are lightness, dynamism, lucidity and imagination. The produces her collection in Florence, choosing fabrics of the goal is that of creating a contemporary and highly distinctive total look. Having won over the eyewear market highest quality. Her desire is to give form to a genderless AirDP by AirEyeWear, this year saw the launch of the sneakers collection AirDP by iShu+ and of outerwear and indispensable object in the world of fashion accessories. and accessories AirDP by Goose Tech. A new business strategy, based on the creation of partnerships with And so Alea transforms itself from rucksack to shoulder companies which can translate their philosophy into product. AirDP came back to Pitti Uomo this year, with bag. An object which adapts to any moment of the day and an eyewear collection inspired by a nomadic lifestyle, by the need to feel at home everywhere, and dialogues which is able to change appearance from sporty to elegant with the needs of a new generation constantly on the move. A good example of this is the style CAVA by based on the wearer’s outfit. Even the name is a challenge: AirEyeWear, cava like the sparkling white Spanish wine, cava (in Italian the word means quarry) like the [à-le-a] is a Latin word which immediately brings the game quarry which generates material. It has the solidity of a geometric design and a visual and material lightness of dice to mind, a polyhedric object which has many of the thanks to the use of a special polyetherimide, Ultem. The frames are obtained thanks to injections into a characteristics of the bag designed by Francesca Rainoldi, mould and not by cutting a length, which allows for greater reduction in weight and thickness, the high- such as its form and the many ways of using it. performance lenses are photochromatic.

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED Focus 34 AUGUST 2017 SCOUTING

Overhead Stefano Minesso grew up in the province of Venice and was interested in the ancient art of hat creation, studying the maufacturing and modelling techniques in artisanal Italian workshops. In 2015 he presented Overhead. The brand thinks about a new generation of headwear, designing a new and continuous evolution of the baseball cap. This is an alternative vision of headwear, one where manufacture and branding are studied and developed with awareness. Overhead puts research and experimentation into materials and advances in confection technology side by side, evolving and changing the intrinsic sportswear image of the baseball cap. Autumn Winter 2017 presents two visor shapes in felt, designed considering new proportions and created in two different silhouettes. The materials selected include boiled wool, stubbly tweed, Prince of Wales check, bouclé fabrics, eco fur and felt of shaved and long hair haired lapin in different shades. The collection is a homage to London in the 90’s, a place of great eclecticism and innovation in arts, music and fashion.

Interview with Andrea Lazzari, creator of Plùs Que Ma Vìe

Who is behind the brand Plùs Que Ma Vìe? My name is Andrea Lazzari and I am the creator of the brand Plùs Que Ma Vìe. I am from Padova, I was born in 1991. I consider myself to be an eclectic and creative person, but I am also a little bit of an entrepreneur. I studied at the Istituto Marangoni in Milan and, in 2013, I reached an important stage by winning the award for best fashion designer. From that moment on I understood what my path was going to be.

Where does the name PQMV come from and what are the brand’s goals? PQMV comes from 21st century underground culture, with strong influences from the 80’s and the 90’s. The name means, more than my life. The goal of the brand is to create a new tribe of people, a new target, able to renew the classical male stereotype, changing shapes and cut and aspiring to a new elegance, without setting any limits on expression. I want to transmit a message of renewal, without abandoning formal elegance, but mixing up classics and streetwear.

Tell us about your creative journey. All of my collections come about from a finished piece, I like studying the silhouette and the fit to then completely rethink them and thus define the collection. I analyse trends of the moment and those from past seasons, then I focus on a macro theme and start sketching.

What fabrics do you prefer for your collections and where do you have your line made? La Siesta Everything is completely Made in Italy, in the Veneto Everything started on a summer afternoon, with sea breeze on the skin region to be precise. Even the choice of fabrics is in and the sound of waves reaching the ear. The Spanish West Coast, a unique national territory! I always use, cotton, silk and wool and place full of antique culture, where lifestyle and traditions are part of its then I like to mix these with technical research fabrics inhabitants’ DNA. La Siesta was born here, thought up by Jorge Navarro which make the mix without ever seeming heavy. Pertusa, a member of the Gioseppo family which for over 25 years has been dedicated to the footwear industry. For the first time at Pitti Immagine You showed on the runway for the first time at Pitti Uomo, the brand will present its second collection. La Siesta’s aim is to Uomo, can you summarize the fashion in the spring maintain the essence of traditional espadrillas, made from natural jute summer 2018 collection? and the best raw materials such as leather, cotton and cool Italian fabrics, Downhill Luxury Acid Team, this is the collection’s name, adding a vulcanized rubber sole which makes them more hardwearing. The it redefines shapes and volumes stolen from bikers’ designer Jorge Navarro has this idea of La Siesta, a perfect combination of sports clothing, adapting it to the trend of the moment comfort, style and luxury with a Made in Spain label. in a mix between activewear, with high tech fabrics and more formal clothing.

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED Focus 36 AUGUST 2017 EXHIBITION THE FLEETING MUSEUM

BY FRANCESCA MANUZZI

Coat Comme des Garçons, spring summer 2015, Collection Palais Galliera

Gräs haute couture spring summer 1960. Wedding dress for Dorothy McGowan in: Who are you Polly Maggoo? by William Klein (1966), Collection Palais Galliera

Portrait of Olivier Saillard (photo Akastudio Collective)

Maison Martin Margiela, haute couture n the rooms of the Galleria del Costume e della Moda in Palazzo collection Artisanal Pitti. Inestimably precious garments, which have made the history autumn winter 2005 (photo Katerina Jebb) of costume or which have never been under the glare of lights and forgotten or reclaimed furniture become the background for the ideal museum, curated by Olivier Saillard, director of the Palais GallieraI in Paris. These are the somatic traits of The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion, on show until 22nd October 2017, produced by Fondazione Pitti Immagine Discovery, in collaboration with the Gallerie degli Uffizi and the museum of the Ville Lumière. Clothes never before seen out of the archives and others displayed for the last time, before being returned to the shadow of their boxes, because considered too fragile to live on under the eyes of all, enter into the eighteen rooms of the palazzo. Two hundred items of dresses and accessories, dating from the mid 1800’s until the present day, come to life thanks to the outstanding conservation work, carried out by the restorers The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion, mood inspiration of the Galleria del Costume and of Palais Galliera. These garments, created by the most important dressmakers and the most prestigious ateliers in the world: Florence, Rome, Milan, Paris, New York: Sartoria Worth, Mariano Fortuny Venezia, Sartoria Rosa Genoni, Sartoria Emilio Federico Schubert, Roberto Capucci, Sartoria Madeleine Vionnet, Irene Galitzine Roma, Elsa Schiaparelli, Jole Veneziani, Biki, Maison romana d’alta moda Carosa, Nina Ricci, Gianfranco Ferré and Christian Lacroix, are spread throughout the rooms, resting on mannequins in wood and wax, or abandoned onto velvet furniture. A revolutionary editing and a never before seen selection, as Saillard himself tells us: “It is with the joy of discovery, with the curiosity of giving life back to a garment, with the will to reveal others, that we have made this selection. We had the idea of creating the Ephemeral Museum of Fashion as a sort of challenge. A new display solution, more poetic than what we would usually be able to do, and that I could do through my job in Paris, also due to the size of the surroundings and the possibility of using the palace’s furnishings. We brought together chairs, mannequins and frames, which in their historical, stylistic, temporal and functional diversity, are able to fill the space, creating dialogues between themselves and, above all, with the garments and accessories on display. It is therefore no longer just a garment hanging up or inside a glass case, rather it is in a continuous spatial relationship with this, with objects which we could define backstage. And in this relationship the leading actor is the visitor”. The Ephemeral Museum of Fashion

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED The Look

Michael Fassbender in Song To Song (Photo Courtesy of Lucky Red) FA ACC ESS SHI ORI ON ES Different Class Fancy Patterns

Style between vintage and contemporary, Prints inspired by nature, present in the most between sportswear and luxury, in a sophisticated English tapestries, make the unique location setting, Raw in Milan. background for accessories with romantic or extremely contemporary patterns.

PAGE 36 PAGE 46 different CLASS

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METAL SPECTACLES, PRADA NYLON JACKET WITH GOOSE FEATHER PADDING, TATRAS KNITTED WOOL V-NECK WITH EMBROIDERY, ANTONIO MARRAS PRINTED POPLIN SHIRT, DOLCE&GABBANA PRINTED DENIM PANTS, MOSCHINO VELVET TRAINERS, STEVE’S WOOL BOMBER JACKET, HEVÒ KNITTED WOOL CREW-NECK, MSGM WOOL TROUSERS, BERWICH STUDDED CALFSKIN SHOES, N°21 COTTON SOCKS, BORGHI UOMO TWO-BUTTON SINGLE-BREASTED SUIT WITH FLAT-FRONT TROUSERS AND COTTON PIQUET POLO SHIRT, ALL BY GUCCI STUDDED MINK AND SOFT LEATHER JACKET, VLADIMIRO GIOIA DENIM SHIRT, LEE KNITTED CASHMERE TURTLENECK, ETRO CORDUROY FLAT-FRONT PANTS, ENTRE AMIS SLEEVELESS SHEEPSKIN PERFECTO JACKET, BRUNELLO CUCINELLI KNITTED WOOL TURTLENECK, VERSUS VERSACE STONE WASHED JEANS, ROY ROGER’S ONE-BUTTON SINGLE-BREASTED COTTON VELVET JACKET, TAGLIATORE KNITTED CASHMERE TURTLENECK AND VELVET TROUSERS, ALL BY ETRO VELVET ANORAK, K-WAY R&D DIRECT PRINTED COTTON CREW-NECK AND COTTON POPLIN SHIRT, ALL BY VALENTINO PLEATED WOOL PANTS, PAUL SMITH CALFSKIN SNEAKERS, DOLCE&GABBANA SUEDE TRAINERS, VALENTINO GARAVANI CORDUROY HARRINGTON JACKET, COTTON POLIN BUTTON-DOWN SHIRT, WOOL FLAT-FRONT TROUSERS AND CALFSKIN AND SUEDE BOOTS, ALL BY PRADA fancy PATTERNS

STYLE_ ANNA PAOLA STRONA PHOTOGRAPHY_ H2O

ACETATE SUNGLASSES WITH MIRRORED LENSES, DIOR ARCHIVE WALLPAPERS III COLLECTION WALLPAPER, MORRIS & CO STRECH BOOTS WITH RUBBER SOLES, FENDI ARDMORE COLLECTION WALLPAPER, COLE AND SON PRINTED SILK BOW TIE, KINLOCH SANDERSON WALLPAPER, B&B DISTRIBUZIONE PRINTED LEATHER IPAD MINI HOLDER, LOUIS VUITTON MORRIS V COLLECTION WALLPAPER, MORRIS & CO PRINTED BACKPACK WITH LEATHER DETAILS, PAUL SMITH ART OF THE GARDEN COLLECTION WALLPAPER, SANDERSON COTTON AND LEATHER BASEBALL HAT, VALENTINO GARAVANI GREENWOOD COLLECTION WALLPAPER, THIBAUT

PRINTED SILK TIE, BIGI TOILE COLLECTION WALLPAPER, SANDERSON LUREX AND LEATHER TRAINERS, GUCCI ARCHIVE WALLPAPER III COLLECTION WALLPAPER, MORRIS & CO

ALL THE WALLPAPERS PICTURED ARE DISTRIBUTED BY B&B DISTRIBUZIONE S.R.L. Highlights 2 58 AUGUST 2017 LIFESTYLE

NET FOR MAUNA KEA Volcanic eruptions and palm fronds paint the return of Net, with a special partnership with Mauna Kea at Pitti Immagine Uomo 92, after its debut in January. The brand is among the leading names in bicycle saddle production, with three beehive layers (cap, padding and cover in thermoplastic material), which thanks to E.V.A. in the padding allows for a better cushioning, whereas the layers of net guarantee incomparable comfort as well as maximum breathability. The saddles, which are 100% recyclable, become interchangeable and customizable collectors’ items. A fetish object for men and women, with street or heritage inspirations, or exotic or precious like gold. The collaboration with Mauna Kea, which takes its name from the famous Hawaiian volcano, gives life to saddles bearing the brand’s graphics.

YSL RAW Yves Saint Laurent has two museums, one in Paris and the other in Marrakech, with a coordinated image studied The English term raw encapsulates the quintessence of the expressly by the Wolkoff & Arnodin agency. “Yves Saint Laurent and I discovered Marrakech in 1966 and we never concept of two Milanese cabinets de curiosités. A passion for abandoned it again, to the extent that we bought a house to be able to go back whenever we wanted to,” explained interior design, combined with research into the atmosphere of Pierre Bergé, president of the Foundation and longtime companion to the designer. “This city had an enormous times gone by, is the recipe proposed in the windows of Raw. The influence on his work and in particular for the discovery of colour. It doesn’t need pointing out that Paris is where it two boutiques, although different in display, have in common a all began.” The two spaces dedicated to 40 years of Yves Saint Laurent’s creativity will open on the 3rd of October in declared taste for objects and expressive atmospheres. The first, the City of Light and in the 19th in Morocco revealing the iconic designer, who passed away in 2002, and the history of in via Palermo 1, is the window for Raw in Brera district, a cosy and the name which today belongs to the Kering group. The Musée Yves Saint Laurent Marrakech, designed by Studio Ko, scenographic place, where there are contaminations with design. will be a cultural centre, and will be sited in rue Yves Saint Laurent, a few steps from the Jardin Majorelle, and will take New for 2017 is the opening of the new store in corso Magenta up four thousand square metres. The Parisian museum on the other hand, measuring four hundred and fifty square 10, which recapitulates and relaunches, not only an important metres, will be at number 5 avenue Marceau, headquarters for the maison for over thirty years and which, since then, episode of research and a precise taste, but also consolidates the has housed the Fondation Pierre Bergé-Yves Saint Laurent. Raw format to interpret a real lifestyle. It is a wunderkammer, where the display changes cyclically. This gathering of objects from France, Belgium, Holland and England, intentionally not restored and combined with a selection of items of contemporary manufacture, gives life to a voyage between sensations, atmosphere and history. This could all seem like idiosyncratic bric-à-brac, but the form is typically that of an inventory of the world which takes possession of rarities and lines them up on its shelves, seeming to suggest taxonomy. The recipe foresees the combination of highly selected and researched brands, leaning towards the production of refined French style ceramics, unusual trays and paperweights in decoupage, sophisticated perfume sprays for the house up to a rich selection of finishes for interiors: wallpapers and colours for murals, lighting and kitchen furniture, cements and resins, TENAX paddings and textiles. The proposal is completed with a corner dedicated to flowers, present in every space in the shop. The goal The name Tenax is in everyone’s head. The first extra strong hold styling gel in fashion in the 80’s remains that of never losing sight of the true nature of the Raw for the slicked back styling of the 20’s or of punk. In 1982 Diana Est, an Italian new wave singer with philosophy, that is to say glancing at the past not in a melancholy a comet-like career recorded her 45rpm with the same name and not long afterwards the Tenax in way, but in a new way in which an old square of parquet becomes Florence opened its doors, one of the clubs which were a symbol of tech-house music in Italy. Today, the top for a coffee table, the pillar head for a staircase or the base those five letters return to their legal owner with a new line of products from Ludovico Martelli. The of a lamp. Unusual interior displays where vintage is placed in a pack is retro, reminding one of past luxury and the range covers hair pomade, brillantine, gel and provocative way and is reinterpreted in contemporary key and mint shampoo. embodies an identity made of subtleties and suggestions.

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED Highlights 2 60 AUGUST 2017 LIFESTYLE

INTERVIEW WITH JONNY PIERCE Interview with Daniele Parlanti BY GIULIANO DEIDDA BY DANIELA CURSI

It takes around six months to prepare a riding boot for sale. Although the label Parlanti can vaunt 30 years of experience, the process remains the same as ever, from design to production of the prototype, from testing to modifications. That which remains unaltered - and is unalterable- is the passion for raw materials and the perfectionist mentality of those who take care of each phase of production. An approach which begins with a dialogue with the rider and materializes in an unstoppable creativity. Daniele Parlanti talks about this in this interview.

When did this passion start? It is not possible to date it. I was just a small boy, when I spent afternoons after school in the factory with my father who at the time produced couture and fashion shoes. I accompanied him to tanning factories in Tuscany, in Santa Croce on the Arno river. I was a nightmare for the tanners because I loved the smell of the leathers and I touched everything. And today I am their nightmare as an adult and businessman. I open all the new batches, I check them, I study them. Nothing escapes me.

Then 30 years ago the Parlanti label was founded. It is my mother Aurelia’s surname. And it is the inheritance from my father The release of Abysmal Thoughts, the fourth album from who has always made his work constant research into the best leathers. the New York band The Drums is a chance to ask the Because leather is not all the same. frontman of the group some questions.

Talking of leathers. Have you used many different types? Beginning in 2005, when Elkland, your earlier band, Calfskin first and foremost, but also shark, crocodile, ray, eel, ostrich, lizard, debuted with the single Apart. At the time, I asked myself bison and various snakes. how such youngsters could get such an incredible 80’s

sound. Tell us about this. Let’s talk about your one-of-a-kind formula. It was a long time ago. We were just kids who wanted I perfected it 15 years ago. Starting with the choice of raw materials – because to make it in the musical scene then. Since I was a boy, it is not true that a calfskin is always the same, it depends on the climate when I lived with my parents in the country, I composed conditions the animal has lived in and its nutrition – I chose the highest music in my room, using an analogic synthesizer, from quality both for the outside and for the lining and I worked with the chemists my dad’s collection. To re-work them I used a really at the tanning factories to ensure softness and strength. When you produce simple software. I was just experimenting. At the time, a riding boot you have to take into consideration the context in which it will I realized I was gay and I felt alone so I spent the nights be used, sweat from the horse, sand, rain and so on. For this reason, I have online in chat to meet other people like me. One night, studied a production method which for over 15 years has ensured long lasting one of these people asked me to play the music I had comfort. Our sport has changed in appearance and we must be ready to stand composed and was really enthusiastic. He was a manager alongside. You only have to think that once there were 15 competitions a year and wanted to meet me in New York. The result was that, and now there are 5 a week. A rider who competes on 5 or 6 horses every six months later, I had a band and a recording contract. If weekend must wear comfortable and practical boots. The boots must not be I played you the original recordings of Elkland songs you a weight or represent a problem, on the contrary they must ease our athletes’ wouldn’t recognise them, they were much rougher and task. in fact, analogical. What can I say? Certain atmospheres from the 80’s fascinated me. I love Altered Images, You said that not all leathers are the same, but they depend on the calf’s Morrissey, Kate Bush and the Sugarcubes with Björk, for quality of life. Can you give an example to clearly illustrate this? example. A calf which comes from Pakistan or Bangladesh or North Africa, lives in dry conditions where there is a shortage of water, it does not graze much and is Lets come bak to the present. Abysmal Thoughts has exposed to flies which leave holes in the skin, these translate into imperfections the freshness and energy of a debut album. What has which must be covered up with chemicals and special workings. This does changed compared with the preceding album? not happen in Belgium, Holland or France where the grazing is plentiful as is I am trying to be completely myself. I don’t want to be water. Of course, the latter cost more but the quality is high. influenced by the outside anymore, so I don’t listen to other people’s music and that is a sacrifice. It is the first How does the process work? time that I have been solo, so I have complete control, Once the design is ready with many memos, I deliver it to the pattern maker right up to the artwork on the cover. It is nice to hear that to work on the style and then on the prototype. Then, if the first version it could be a debut album because I was breathing total convinces me, this is followed by three or four months of tests. I consign the creative freedom. new boots to a trusted horse rider who tries them out. Then I personally go to check how the boots react to the job and to gather the rider’s precious The album has explicit sexual references. How testimony. Once everything is put together and the suitable modifications important is it to face these arguments today? have been made, they become new styles for sale. When we started, things were different. Only bands like Le Tigre and Hercules and Love Affair were trasparent about homosexuality. Apart from that, I didn’t feel safe in facing up to the argument. I remember avoiding answering direct questions several times during interviews. It’s different now. I consider it to be fundamental to be open and give messages. Composing each one of the album’s songs was like therapy for me. I learned so much about myself. It is an introspective album one where I ask myself questions. I think it is fundamental for an artist to be honest and give himself completely. The fact that we have today a president like Donald Trump makes all of this even more important. I feel as though I am an activist and I have the duty to connect with others. If we were all open and honest and if we all listened to one another I am convinced that the world would evolve.

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FASHION ILLUSTRATED Destination 62 AUGUST 2017 TIME OUT Liguria An Unforgettable Day

A special day, a fascinating and unique itinerary. By boat from Portofino or from Santa Margherita Ligure, destination: le Cinque Terre (The Five Lands).

Riva Aquarama Special

Matteo Vernazza, owner of Motor Marine Tigullio & Ma.Mi. in Santa Margherita Ligure, illustrates one of the long- preferred itineraries by sea, a memorable experience, and one which is difficult to forget by those who enjoy it. Excursions by sea (and by land), in close contact with astonishing nature.

“Leaving from Santa Margherita Ligure or from Portofino, hugging the coast and passing Zoagli, we arrive at Sestri Levante and Moneglia. Then on to Punta Mesco, where you can dive in the enchanting area of the Rocce Rosse (Red Rocks). Continuing through the Cinque Terre National Park, we come to Vernazza. A stop for lunch, perhaps at the Ristorante Belforte, and then a stroll in the lanes… Or a trip to see the Vigne Eroiche (The Heroic Vineyards), which got this name because they were created from steep terraces above a sheer drop to the sea. The French newspaper Le Figaro declared that these vineyards are amongst five of the most beautiful in the world. Starting off again by sea and if there is time continuing on to Portovenere, close to La Spezia. Portovenere is renowned for its beauty. The area has been included in the listing of World Heritage Sites. The church of San Pietro, which can be seen from the sea, is virtually a fortified castle and was erected around the year 1100. Extremely well-preserved, it is open for guided tours. Also, right in front of Portovenere is the island of Palmaria, where it is possible to have lunch after a rejuvenating swim (as an alternative to lunch in Vernazza). Our advice is to stop and eat at Locanda Lorena which has a garden and terrace before sailing back.”

How long is it from Portofino to Vernazza? About an hour and a half.

What type of boats are available? Of the boats available, I would suggest the motorboat Asterie 315, 10 metres long and full optional. It makes for a comfortable trip for 9 people plus the skipper. As an alternative, the Riva Aquarama Special, absolutely unique. It is suitable for 4 or 5 people plus the skipper. A vintage and elegant experience.

Who makes up the majority of your clients, foreigners or Italians? Foreigners make up around 80% of our customers. Particularly Americans and Australians who are absolutely crazy about Portofino and the Cinque Terre. Credit is due to the group of the Cinque Terre, by exhibiting at tourism trade shows they have done a great job in promoting the area.

Booking: Motor Marine & Ma.Mi. associate Santa Margherita Ligure (Ge) • Office SML : +39-0185-288408 • www.motormarine.com

FASHION ILLUSTRATED Destination AUGUST 2017 63 TIME OUT

Zoagli

Ristorante Belforte Via G. Guidoni, 42 19018 Vernazza (SP) +39 0187812222 www.ristorantebelforte.it

Vernazza

Isola Palmaria

Moneglia

Locanda Lorena, Via Cavour, 4, 19025 Portovenere (SP), +39 0187792370 www.locandalorena.com

Portovenere

Chiesa di San Pietro, Portovenere

Portofino

Asterie 315 Avatar

FASHION ILLUSTRATED Fashion who Reads 64 AUGUST 2017 SPECIAL GUEST

IT IS NOT ONLY A QUESTION OF FASHION BY JONNY PIERCE

Artwork by Nicola Gobbetto he relationship between fashion and music has always been one of reciprocal influence and I believe it is still so today. When we started as The Drums in 2010, our style was somewhere between college and vintage preppy, we wore Teddy jackets. After a while, that style came more and more back into fashion, in part even thanksT to our success. Maybe it is true that fashion today has more power than the past, but at the end of the day I don’t think it is so important. What interests me personally, is offering my world to my audience, that includes, as well as my music, also my way of dancing, my videos, my aesthetics and my look. I have always loved artists who involve you in this way, like Kate Bush for example, a performer capable of giving the whole deal in an excellent way. However, I don’t think that I am influenceable, as regards fashion, it is more important for me to find myself, even aesthetically. I follow what I know and what interests me. For example, I am very attracted to a certain type of sportswear, starting with motorbike trousers. And when I talk about a deep attraction, this includes the fetish and sexual aspects. In short, I am excited by sports clothing and athletic wear and I don’t see anything strange about that. Sexuality is important to me. I do have a piece in a completely different genre that I am very fond of, however. It is a Saint Laurent jacket in micro sequins made for me by Hedi Slimane for The Drums’ latest tour. I have only ever worn it on the stage because I am afraid of ruining it. Hedi Slimane was a great help at the beginning of our career. I remember our first meeting. We were doing a little soundcheck in Los Angeles and he came to take photos of us whilst we tried out. Then he came back for the show. Those images made us immediately known to the world of fashion and starting from there, made us popular. Hedi is a special person and we are still very good friends.

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