A DREAM REALISED CHEWTON BUSHLANDS STORIES 45 CHAPTER 7 Personal journeys 46 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS

t takes a certain pioneering spirit to move, and then settle, into the I Bushlands. It’s never been a place for featherweights. When the subdivision first came on the market in November 1974, people were slow to take up the challenge. Some—though not all—of the first sales were to people who bought blocks as an investment or as weekenders, which they remain to this day. We don’t see those people often. During the 1980s about half of the blocks were sold to more hardy spirits, people brave enough to take on the adventure of actually living here. Some came, some went, but by the late 1980s there were many more who came, saw, and stayed. Over the last forty years, all up, dozens of residents have lived in the Bushlands on Parson’s subdivision or its surrounds. For whatever reason they chose to spend time here—its natural environment, its proximity to friends and community, the privacy, because it’s off grid, or some other reason— they all have different stories to tell. The fifteen personal stories in this chapter, ordered by year of purchase, paint a picture of this diversity.

LEFT AND PREVIOUS PAGE Bushlands textures. PHOTOS: KIM WINDSOR A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 47 Susan Hellawell’s story

’75 ’76 ’77 ’78 ’79 ’80 ’81 ’82 ’83 ’84 ’85 ’86 ’87 ’88 ’89 ’90 ’91 ’92 ’93 ’94 ’95 ’96 ’97 ’98 ’99 ’00 ’01 ’02 ’03 ’04 ’05 ’06 ’07 ’08 ’09 ’10 ’11 ’12 ’13 ’14 ’15

have spent nearly four decades living in the We wanted to explore alternative Bushlands. I helped my husband Peter Hellawell energies, so we spent the next year avidly reading about solar and wind I build our stone house, our three children were power, house design, self-sufficiency and animal husbandry. We also born and grew up here, I buried my husband down the worked full time. The numerous road in a coffin built by his children and made from magazines and books we read wood that had been on our walls. I have watched the made it all sound so simple. In 1975 Hellawell accepted a job at the local vegetation and the had friends in the USA who high school, and then, in December animals flourish were exploring alternative 1976, we moved into the Bushlands. and diminish, the lifestyles; their ecstatic Over the next five months we letters about how good lived first in a tent, and then in the changing pattern that was supported the two-storey stone house next door, of the weather eccentric experiences before moving into a shack that, with and its effects. I Lot 30 we were amused by the help of friends, we had built on when watching the our land. Because it was supposed have shared my television program to be temporary, the shack we built time with the The Good Life. was tiny but as neither of us had Coincidentally, in 1974, after any experience building with stone people who, over much discussion with many of the (or building with anything) you that period, felt that hippies living nearby, Brian Parsons could say we were more than a little had subdivided 121 hectares into optimistic. Footloose and fancy free, this area could be their what became known as the Chewton with no children, we moved into the home. Bushlands. A year later his advert shack. By the time we moved into The 1970s was a fantastic time fell on fertile ground. That weekend part of our stone house in in Australia, possibly especially so we drove four hours up the Calder September 1979, we were because we were young. There was so Highway to see the Bushlands and much potential, so many ideas about met Brian and Tony Daniels, a local ways to live, and we had the ability to who worked for Brian. Tony showed try them out. us around and within an hour—and When Hellawell and I saw an without a qualm—we chose the advertisement placed by Brian plot and bought our place. Parsons in the Saturday Age in 1975, In the 1970s Australia we were living and working in outer was one of the leading Melbourne and for nearly a year had lights (excuse the pun) been thinking about buying our own in solar energy. Part place. We had been listening to close of our reason for friends who were enthusiastic about choosing our plot building something big, such as a was so we could house or a concrete boat. We also live independently. 48 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS

At the time our friends and work colleagues thought we were mad to eschew not so footloose the comforts of the twentieth century. block and built and we had an an amazing 18 month old shed around toddler. a large tree that So, first with candles (getting up house next door. A couple, was used as the staircase. Helen to a baby in the middle of the night about our age and wearing very was pregnant with their first child, was sometimes a challenge), and little, drove up on a motorbike Joshua, who was born in March the then with solar, we adapted quickly, to warn us that they had seen a snake following year. Enid organised a new though not always without some cross our drive: they were Ray and year party to welcome them and tension. At the time, our friends Leslie Lindstrom from Essendon. introduce them to other Bushlanders. and work colleagues thought we Over the next few years we shared More people were moving into the were mad to eschew the comforts of dinners and barbecues and put the Bushlands. In late 1984 we met Linda the twentieth century. The passing world to rights; Leslie and I shared and Tony Cook, who were expecting of time and the awareness of the information about ways to grow their second child. The residents of fragility of our world have made plants in the challenging conditions. that period used to socialise, though increasingly mainstream what Today, thirty-eight years later, when having young children and building seemed back then to be a weird I walk around my garden, I enjoy houses didn’t leave much energy to choice made by a small number of seeing how the few bulbs planted cavort into the night, as we had done rather odd people. then have survived and multiplied, a few years earlier. As the children Water is something townspeople and how the deciduous trees, planted grew and more people moved in, used to take for granted, so how to as fire retardants, have survived we decided to have a party to help collect and use water was another rabbits, drought conditions and everyone meet everyone else. Our important lesson for us to learn. our goats, and have grown to give first formal Bushland Bash happened During the time we lived in the two- wonderful summer shade. in December 1985 at our place. We storey stone house, I had drawn up The other couple, Beryl and called the bash ‘Better Homes and the house plans and the Metcalfe Laurie Leslie, was a little older Ruins’, and left invitations at the shire engineer accepted them. He than us. Beryl and I shared a love doors of every house that appeared also suggested the installation of a of reading and had many chats to be occupied. Many people turned particular septic system that was discussing our latest finds. One up, bringing their contributions to the many decades ahead of its time. other couple, Scott and Karen Hall, feast. The December bash, which is Predating the use of grey water was here for a time at the beginning now thirty years old, has become an systems, the design enables effective of 1976, but they were very busy annual event, though not everyone is and safe use of every drop of water organising their home in Castlemaine able to make it every time. that leaves the house. We installed it and we rarely saw them. In our first ten years, many people in 1978 and it continues to work well. For quite a time we six were the tried living here full or part time, As we soon found out, two only full time residents I knew of, taking on the adventure of building other couples also moved into the but soon, others moved in. Enid and their own home and living without Bushlands at the end of 1976 and John Hall moved into their cottage, reticulated water, bathrooms or although there were rumours of the one their son Scott (see ‘Personal power. Many found it too difficult weekenders, we rarely saw them. journeys’, page 54) and daughter- and several relationships crumbled We met the first of those neighbours in-law Karen had briefly inhabited. under the strain. in early January 1977, soon after we Towards the end of 1978, Helen and Some people moved on, and then had moved into the two-storey stone Michael Melican moved onto their moved back. The circular award must A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 49

go to Douglas Banks and his wife friendly game of cricket, all of my have moved in, as weekenders and Eve, who, starting in 1978 with first children have survived and are fit, full-time residents, all of whom have one, then two, then three children, healthy, well adjusted and extremely experienced only drought, yet still built or renovated three separate adaptable. they loved the Bushlands. It has been houses in the Bushlands, moving to For the first twenty years we wonderful hearing and reading about Castlemaine in between, then back to lived here, our winters were wet, their delight in the return of the wet the Bushlands, before deciding that the dam always overflowed, the in 2010—the revitalised Bushlands, Castlemaine was the place for them. bottom paddock always flooded and the Bushlands that I had moved into Douglas is the man responsible for the trees, birds and roos flourished, and that might have disappeared having the fire access forever. But it road opened up into has bounced Bubbs Lane, which back, bigger and has provided another bushier. It has been escape route should a pleasure to see that be necessary. my dam overflow My husband again, a delight to discovered a liking have the bottom for building, as a paddock flood. result of which, all Of the initial three of our children six people who grew up on a building moved into the site. Although I Bushlands in 1976, say ‘building’, the three have died and cosmetic finishes two have moved that are quite on. I remain. I have useful in keeping a The view across the Hellawell dam around 1977 showing many memories house clean were a thinner tree cover than there is today. PHOTO: SUSAN HELLAWELL of past animals, not his forte. Being most of which, if city born and bred, I used to feel as did the rabbits; my garden grew they weren’t eaten or sold, have been that the children might succumb and grew in size and flora. The trees buried in that bottom paddock, our pet to awful diseases, ones that had we planted to cut for firewood grew cemetery. I have years of memories, become extinct everywhere there tall and there was a steady supply to recollections that are good and bad, was a vacuum cleaner, strong lights, keep us warm. In 1996 we noticed and that are accumulated in a life: of toilets and bathrooms, that I may that, after so many years, our bottom building and going without a loo or somehow have irrevocably deprived paddock was not flooded: our bathroom for several years, of creating my children by lack of access to drainage system must be working. the garden without water tanks or endless water, non-stop electricity The following year we realised it was hoses, of children growing and of and closeness to town. I was really not the drainage system at all, it was being their taxi service, of people heartened to read that children who the beginning of the drought. It was shuffling off their mortal coil and being grew up in sterile surroundings were the last time for fourteen years that buried down the road in Chewton more likely to suffer conditions such our dam filled. cemetery. I have spent most of my as asthma. Apart from accidents, During the past twelve years many adult life here in the Bushlands and I such as teeth being broken in a new energetic and exciting people feel very lucky for having done so. 50 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS Ray & Leslie Lindstrom’s story

’75 ’76 ’77 ’78 ’79 ’80 ’81 ’82 ’83 ’84 ’85 ’86 ’87 ’88 ’89 ’90 ’91 ’92 ’93 ’94 ’95 ’96 ’97 ’98 ’99 ’00 ’01 ’02 ’03 ’04 ’05 ’06 ’07 ’08 ’09 ’10 ’11 ’12 ’13 ’14 ’15

ay and leslie bought lot 37 on Dishpan could actually have a successful Gully Road for $24,650 in March 1976. fruit and vegetable garden says a lot about Ray’s dedication, as R They also purchased the adjoining well as something about the Lot 36, on which Ray Lot soil on that particular lot; Ray immediately set it also says a bit about built a shearing shed. The to work clearing the land the climate at that building of a shearing to create a permaculture 37 time. These days, garden and brought in most Bushlands shed explains a lot about livestock. He began with a people have given up on what Ray’s plans were for few sheep and chickens, and the idea of successfully pursuing this particular block. eventually introduced a couple of such an endeavour. Concurrently, horses. By the early 1980s, with Ray continued to work in his own Ray spent his early years in a new wife Nicole and a growing Castlemaine salon, cutting the hair of Essendon, where he had trained as a family, the produce from the garden his many clients. hairdresser. After holidaying in the was very welcome. The fact that he In the Bushlands, he made United Kingdom in the friends first with the early 1970s, he decided Hellawells, and then that city life was no with the Halls. Ray tells longer for him. During of the many hours he his travels in Yorkshire spent in philosophical and Scotland with discussions with John Leslie, his air hostess Hall, who he considers wife, he met many local to have been one of the people who had also finest people he ever made that decision, knew. following a trend at Meanwhile, as that time to choose an an accomplished alternative lifestyle and musician, Ray was to live independently also kept busy playing off the land. at many events in The house in the the district. It was Bushlands Ray and during that time, in Leslie chose was one of the late 1970s, that he the nine stone houses developed an interest that Cap Delmenico had in the Theatre Royal in built for Brian Parsons. Castlemaine, which, at The Lindstroms were the time, was very run the first to move down. Ray saw this as into one of the stone Early Bushlands resident Ray Lindstrom tried the farming life. an opportunity to make houses. PHOTO: RAY LINDSTROM a big change in the A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 51

Ray immediately set to work clearing the land to create a permaculture garden and brought in livestock. He began with a few sheep and chickens, and eventually introduced a couple of horses.

Proof positive that it snowed in the Bushlands in 1981. PHOTO: RAY LINDSTROM Ray Lindstrom. town. By this time, he had developed Brian looked to Ray to make the licence and for a friendship with Brian Parsons and decisions and, eventually, to finance installing the the two of them decided to take on the deal. But this partnership did couches that are still a feature of the the theatre and turn it into a venue not last; in 1980, nine months after Theatre Royal today. that would attract a new crowd. Ray it started, Brian pulled out. Still As always, change comes. Ray’s wanted to return it back into the believing in the venture—even selling marriage to Nicole faltered and his dance hall and hotel it had once been, his house in the Bushlands in 1996 to interest in the farming life declined. and for it to show films and have help finance it—Ray stayed with the Today, Ray lives happily in his house other entertainment, much as it does project until 1999. He was the person in Maldon where there’s no livestock, today. responsible for obtaining the liquor but there is a lot of wildlife. 52 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS Rita & Peter van Benthem’s story

’75 ’76 ’77 ’78 ’79 ’80 ’81 ’82 ’83 ’84 ’85 ’86 ’87 ’88 ’89 ’90 ’91 ’92 ’93 ’94 ’95 ’96 ’97 ’98 ’99 ’00 ’01 ’02 ’03 ’04 ’05 ’06 ’07 ’08 ’09 ’10 ’11 ’12 ’13 ’14 ’15

n 1977, not long after the bushlands estate was a natural, essential addition. subdivision into its forty-two lots, there were All that has not basically changed in the many years since Lot 29 of I not many occupants in the area, not legal ones 2.5 hectares became a jewel for Rita, anyway. Still on offer were four of six lots, each with Peter and their children. Life in the Bushlands for the van stone cottages on them, available for purchase in the Benthems has been about family Mount View Estate in the and about the company of their Bushlands, including one advertisement for properties with many friends. They could sleep up cottages in the Mount View Estate, to eighteen in the cottage—quite a still awaiting a roof. not too far from their bunk room. The opportunities to Twenty years earlier, Rita suburban home, that enjoy all that the environment and Heskes and Peter van Benthem offered the environment their particular lot offered made had emigrated from The Hague to and tranquillity they them very frequent weekenders. Australia on the same vessel. They sought. The following They loved walking through the had known each other prior to Sunday, Peter and Rita bush and holding parties. heading for the land Down Under, so loaded the family and Card evenings with their it was no surprise that, three years the picnic basket into numerous visitors were later, they became Rita and Peter van their Ford panel van Lot 29 dominant in the calendar, Benthem. Not to rest on their tulips, and headed north up and if there were too they set about establishing their the Calder. many players for one own food outlet in Melbourne. Peter At an agreed time, the table, they just set up being a trained pastry chef, they family rendezvoused with Brian two; when demand was created a quality cakes and pastries Parsons and a Cassidy Real Estate extreme, three. business, Rita’s Homemade Cakes, in agent at the 69 mile post and There have been many years Niddrie, and later opened a second proceeded to explore the remaining of great enjoyment for Rita, Peter, shop in Kensington. cottages that Brian had available. their family and friends in this, their Down the track, with a successful They chose Lot 29 for a negotiated ideal country spot. Recently, with business and four children—Dianne, price of $32,000. Their acquisition a few health issues emerging, their Melinda, and twins Leanne and was not only a plus for them, but visits have become less frequent Peter—Rita and Peter felt that it was also a bit of an opportune boost to but they still love to visit when they time to look for a source of relaxation the vendor’s pocket. can, with favourable weather being and an outlet from the demands of It was the van Benthem’s choice a significant consideration. Lot 29, two very busy cake shops and four to enjoy their spot with as few 2 Mount View Road, one of the very lively children. Investigations encumbrances as possible. Already original stone cottages, is still very of possible locations were not very there was a corrugated water tank much in its original condition and fruitful; most were either too far with a hand pump (later exchanged remains the warm, welcoming home from their home in Essendon or were for a motorised pump), gas lights, away from home that it has always just not inviting. an open fire and a gas cooker. No been for its only owners, the van Then, one Saturday in 1977, generator, no telephone. Given that Benthems. the Melbourne press carried an there were children, a tree house A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 53

ABOVE Rita with the van Benthem children Peter, Dianne, ABOVE Peter helping with pest control and food Melinda, Leanne and their dog Goldie, Christmas 1979. supplies, December 1980. PHOTOS: VAN BENTHEMS 54 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS The Hall family’s story

’75 ’76 ’77 ’78 ’79 ’80 ’81 ’82 ’83 ’84 ’85 ’86 ’87 ’88 ’89 ’90 ’91 ’92 ’93 ’94 ’95 ’96 ’97 ’98 ’99 ’00 ’01 ’02 ’03 ’04 ’05 ’06 ’07 ’08 ’09 ’10 ’11 ’12 ’13 ’14 ’15

THE FIRST PHASE: JOHN AND ENID window to plug in a little black and white television so that we could n 1977 my first wife karen and I honeymooned watch Sherlock Holmes. in Castlemaine. We liked the town and it was close Coming from the orchard country to Melbourne. We became caught up with the idea of Bulleen at a time when there was I more water around, John and Enid’s of a tree change, even though that expression hadn’t expectations were that the Bushlands come into use yet, and so we contacted real estate was a fertile place, so John planted an orchard down at the bottom of agents. Max Cassidy drove us around and I think the property, started a vegetable we also met up with garden and, with help from Brian Parsons because came to Carnegie, my brother-in-law and and then to North me, put in an irrigation I remember walking up Balwyn, and lastly system. John was of the hill and down dale looking to Bulleen, at that generation who believed time on the edge of they could do anything at all the Bushlands blocks, Melbourne where Lot 23 if they put their mind to and this house [Lot 23] in the house they lived it. For example, we had particular, one of the first in was on a dirt road never done any fencing and the sewerage was just but we just hove to and nine that Brian built. I being put through. John was taught ourselves how to, have a memory that Brian originally from Cunamulla, as one did in those days. a small town that lies on the The cottage renovation was used this place as a sales Warrego River in southwest started in 1978 with the laying of office and that one of the Queensland, approximately 750 the slab for the extension. John, stonemasons lived here kilometres west of Brisbane. So he who was a wine collector, and Enid, had a rural background. who were intending to supervise while he was building. John and Enid bought Lot 23, the construction, went away on a I brought my parents, John and Dishpan Gully Road in the Bushlands wine-buying trip to give the slab Enid, up here to look at this house— in December 1977. They built the time to dry. Sadly, in January 1979, well, a cottage really—with just two large shed—which is still standing— while on that wine trip, John died. small rooms. John was in his late and started bringing up their He never did see the second half of fifties, had a heart condition and furniture. They planned to extend the house come to fruition, nor did had taken early retirement. He had the cottage, but were still living in he have the pleasure of living in his been assistant director for overseas Bulleen. Karen and I, who were both Bushlands house, although working services of Radio Australia. He was teaching at Castlemaine Secondary on the garden and planning the very much an A-type personality, College, moved from Castlemaine renovation had given him a great deal worked hard and chased promotions. into this cottage for about six months of pleasure. The family had lived in many places, before moving to Vaughan Springs. The idea of giving up this place including Brisbane, Sydney, and then One memory I have of that time is was not on the agenda for Enid, Melbourne, where, initially, they of driving our car up to the front then in her early sixties. This place A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 55

LEFT John the treehugger. CENTRE Camp cook Enid. RIGHT Laura and Scott, March 2014. PHOTOS: SCOTT HALL was theirs and, although it was very of an era: if it was cold they would she had lived with bottled gas and challenging and daunting for her, put on a jumper rather than light a kerosene. There came a time during there was never any suggestion that fire. Nothing was ever thrown away, which her health was fading and she would be anywhere else. She had a legacy of the days of the war when being here was becoming too much half a house, on a rugged slope, open goods were in short supply. for her, despite our help. After she to the elements because the end wall So it is nice to keep this place as a eventually left to live with my sister was out. She put on the extension, sort of a family home. Enid put down in Melbourne, the house remained including the second storey, and a lot of the garden and I think she empty for two years. My siblings and set about establishing herself in the would be very pleased with how it I then put it on the market, but offers community. looks now. Her gardening style was were too low and we didn’t sell. I was Enid was a joiner. She studied typical of those times: plant whatever living in Castlemaine at the time, and geology at U3A because she wanted cuttings you got from a friend or then temporarily moved here. to be up a bit more with things picked over a fence—lavender and Laura had been living in for Landcare, was active in the roses and geraniums. Those plants Melbourne for two years when we Castlemaine Field Naturalists for a are as hardy as anything and many met. Initially, she was very reluctant long time and was secretary for years have survived. That’s not the way to take on this place. For me, this of the Save the Children Fund. It that we do it now. It was not native house gave a sense of connection to seems she was always the secretary; gardening. the past but she did not have that she was also a good bookkeeper. She attachment to it and was looking lived for about three years after I met THE SECOND PHASE: at it from a different point of view. Laura and, as Laura put it, ‘She was SCOTT AND LAURA The interior of the building was very pleased that I was a treasurer type of run down. Enid had found it hard person. She also tried to introduce n 2001, after twenty-five to maintain and had sectioned off me to U3A, but I thought I was a bit years in the Bushlands, Enid part of the house in order to remain young.’ She was also a member of the moved away. Towards the end of here and stay independent. Laura Newstead Spinning Group, a group of I that time, my brother Roy and a could see that it would need a lot women who had a great time together friend of his had installed the basics of work and what that would cost. and were very close. All of them were of a solar system, but until then She was interested in alternative 56 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS

technology but more interested in being connected to the grid so that we could sell electricity back into the grid and not have the problem of cost and the limitations of batteries. She could also see that the climate was difficult and that there was no soil. Nevertheless, Laura and I bought it and came to live here permanently in 2003. We named the property ‘Gondwanaland’ as an acknowledgement of the ancient super continent when Australia and The two storey extension to the original stone house (see page 30). Africa, among land masses, were PHOTO: SCOTT HALL part of that continent. Laura is from South Africa so it signified a joining Originally, we had mainly gum trees a context. My context was to look up of the old continent again. and coffee bush with no understorey. from the front room across water and Enid still maintained a connection Now the trees have replaced the coffee to have a view of the top half of the to this place, coming to stay with bush and there is an understorey of trees. Laura is more about the natural us in the school holidays (I was still wattles, cherry ballarts, herbs and environment. She is the naturalist and teaching) for a week or two at a grasses—a good news story. Around the botanist; we are planting natives time. The property was still rough the house, we have learnt to make now. but Laura and I were working on it. soil. Around the back of the house, Birdlife is increasing: the Enid did see some of our renovations where it is sheltered and shaded, honeyeaters are all over, and right happening before she died in 2006 there is a flourishing fernery. Here now, in the late summer, the eastern aged eighty-seven. in the Bushlands. Who would have spinebills are coming in. Of course, The changes I have noticed thought it possible? there were birds when we first came over the more than thirty years As youngsters, my three children here, and the honeyeaters have since I first came here are the came up here a lot and played at always lived here, but now there are changes in the bush. From Gran’s place, built cubbies, and so more. On our property, native plants the front of the house we on. Now they have their own lives and the water in two dams attract used to be able to see and careers. Even though one lives in birds; we have a list of thirty different the road quite easily; England and the others in Melbourne, species. Among the wildlife, a notable now no longer as they love the idea of this place and visitor is Larry, our Jacky dragon. the bush has have a strong attachment to it. My When he hides under the grapevine, recovered son Tony and his wife Julie had their he looks like a crocodile. magnificently first child, baby Eleanor, in September So here we are and, despite the and is still 2014, so I can imagine Enid’s great- challenges, Laura is not sorry at recovering. grandchild will come and do the same all. As she said, ‘We have done it, things and that is a nice feeling. redeveloped it, and extended it’. Our Larry, the My main hobby is gardening and property has survived in this area and Jacky landscaping. My interest is the built has a connection to the past. dragon. environment; I love the idea of having — scott hall A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 57 Sandra Watson’s story

’75 ’76 ’77 ’78 ’79 ’80 ’81 ’82 ’83 ’84 ’85 ’86 ’87 ’88 ’89 ’90 ’91 ’92 ’93 ’94 ’95 ’96 ’97 ’98 ’99 ’00 ’01 ’02 ’03 ’04 ’05 ’06 ’07 ’08 ’09 ’10 ’11 ’12 ’13 ’14 ’15

n 1980, inspired by the experience of helping friends at Lockwood build a mudbrick home, Sandra Watson I and Gerard Bonnice purchased their Bushlands block Lot 1 at Lot 2, Bubbs Lane. They had been looking for about eighteen months and this block came up as part of a Bubbs subdivision of a long strip of land between the Parsons’ Lane area and the old Calder Highway, now called Harmony Way. There were no houses on any of the seven titles; it was just what they wanted. Sandra grew up in South Australia, where her dad managed a 40,000 acre farming property in the Koorong: it was off grid, remote and self- sufficient. Nevertheless, Sandra’s dad described this Bushlands block as ‘hellish’, wondering why anyone would ever buy it because, in his opinion, nothing could be done with land like this. But Sandra and Gerard had two young kids, Kieren, born in 1978, and Kythra, born in 1979, and they thought it would be a better life for kids to grow up in the country. They bought the land jointly with an inheritance from Gerard’s family, she was, by and large, a self-sufficient to work in Melbourne, where the but continued to live and work in single mother, finances were much children were at school. They all Melbourne. Then, in 1983, Gerard and tighter. came up to the block for weekends Sandra separated. Sandra was given Sandra and her new partner, doing a lot of the groundwork. Hans, the land but Gerard always remained Hans Henderson, son of American being younger than Sandra and not involved in the property, even after musician Skitch Henderson, decided working at that time, was able to she later remarried. Sandra now found to build their mudbrick house on her spend more time on the site. herself with two small children, the block in the Chewton Bushlands. Once the build actually started in land and her job as a nurse. Although During 1984, Sandra continued 1985 the family moved up full time 58 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS

and lived off Sandra’s savings in a tin daily. The bricks were formed after By now it was the late 1980s shed. Family and friends, including sieving the clay through an old and Sandra and Hans decided to Peter Hellawell, who had already bed frame, making the mud mix in leave the unfinished house to go built and was living nearby, gave a concrete mixer borrowed from back to the USA for a year so they assistance and support. Kieran and John Anders, forming the bricks in could earn some money, then come Kythra, who became close friends a mould, leaving them out to dry back and finish the house. They with the Hellawell children, were and, finally, stacking them. Their tin married in 1988 and, as a result of the home schooled for a year before shed had no bathroom or toilet; they business they set up there being so going to school in Castlemaine. washed in the dam every day. There successful, it turned out to be almost To some, the life they had may was no power, no solar panels like twenty years before Sandra was to sound like a romantic story. The kids now. Over time, the concrete slab was permanently return to her muddie. were mostly free ranging, counting put down, the post and beam frame During those years the house and laying bricks, learning to use went up, the roof went on, the pine just sat, neglected. Consequently, a level, painting timbers, building ceiling lining in the main living area there was some deterioration but, cubbies, digging for gold and so on. finished, and all the mudbricks were testament to the enduring qualities Not so, says Sandra. It was a hard life eventually laid in the walls. Gerard, of mudbricks, it survived well. When and hard work for everyone who was who had considerable building they left, the upstairs bedroom doing much the same thing at the expertise, did the framing for all the did not have a timber ceiling, only time: living in the bush, self-building, windows and doorways and made all sisalation, which had become torn raising young children, maintaining the windows and doors. The house and blown around everywhere; as relationships and finding their place was taking shape but there was no well, the possums had gotten in. in a new community. money left for glazing, plumbing, Upon returning from the USA for a Sandra and Hans were mudding wiring and doing the inside. brief period in 2000, a lot of cleaning

Equipment + labour = mudbrick house: Sandra’s muddie underway. PHOTOS: SANDRA WATSON A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 59

I have always loved the notion up was done; it was in this year that of the house being return to this two-storey muddie. the couple divorced. It is a remarkable house that stands The second stage of building to a symbol of self, tall halfway up the hill on its make the house habitable began in particularly when cleared space, glowing red-brown 2005. For the enormous amount of in the afternoon sun. A north work involved Sandra thanks Dave that dwelling is facing downstairs wall of glass and McCaffrey, her partner since 2003, owner built … clerestory windows upstairs bring in and Xavier, Gerard’s brother, who is the sun and the natural light. a builder. Gerard, also, was working Thirty years later Sandra has this to say about her on the house when he died in 2005. and the house is house in the Bushlands, ‘I have always The last part of the project was in loved the notion of the house being 2014, when Xavier and Sandra put still unfinished– a symbol of self, particularly when on the upstairs balconies, the carport solid, rough and that dwelling is owner built. There was added and the large open room rugged. Its beauty have been times in the past when downstairs was divided to create an I have camped on the block and extra bedroom. All the major works is not in the way looked at the house with its gaping are done now. A vegetable garden it looks, but in its holes for doors and windows, bricks is thriving. Sandra’s son Kieran, unrendered, and have cried for seeing his wife Jamie and their two young stories. myself. Thirty years later and the children are presently living in the house is still unfinished—solid, rough house, where the back area sports and rugged. Its beauty is not in the kids’ toys and play equipment. way it looks, but in its stories. I see Sandra and Dave travel and myself as a reflection of the house.’

Equipment + labour = mudbrick house: Sandra’s muddie underway. PHOTOS: SANDRA WATSON 60 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS Ken Savage’s story

’75 ’76 ’77 ’78 ’79 ’80 ’81 ’82 ’83 ’84 ’85 ’86 ’87 ’88 ’89 ’90 ’91 ’92 ’93 ’94 ’95 ’96 ’97 ’98 ’99 ’00 ’01 ’02 ’03 ’04 ’05 ’06 ’07 ’08 ’09 ’10 ’11 ’12 ’13 ’14 ’15

ot 7 in the chewton produce Earl Grey tea bags from his on finances, decided it was time to bushlands is a filing cabinet. look for a weekender. We already We were on side from there on. had connections with owners of L great place to be. It was a sure sale right from the beachside properties, but after In December 1983, the start. After visiting several choosing to explore possibilities in vacant sites, and others central Victoria, we happily Savage family—Meg and I, with stone cottages settled on Lot 7, and our three children,— on them, Max Bush Sanctuary delivered a clear Road, Chewton purchased Lot 7, Bush statement: ‘We are Bushlands, which Sanctuary Road, for the now going to see your Lot 7 was really Lot 7, sum of $7000 from John block.’ We did not take Wattle Crescent. too much convincing: Lot Later, when rural and Robyn Cox, who had 7 was beautifully situated and numbering was originally purchased it in certainly met our visions of a place implemented, it became where we would like to set up camp. 20 Wattle Crescent, and then, still 1978. At this time we were both later, after Mount Alexander council’s Max Cassidy Snr (now deceased) teachers: Meg was teaching in changes to road names, it became 20 was the estate agent who, with his special schools, I was in my second Wattle Road. redoubtable experience in assessing year as deputy principal at Balwyn Before settlement on the sale, his clientele, made the sale. What’s Primary School. We had finished Meg’s father Cliffy and I took on the more, one has to admire an estate rebuilding our house in Surrey task of repairing the dam wall, which agent who, back in 1983, could Hills and, with no great pressure had been close to being breached in

A squeeze down the driveway as the first section arrives. Home delivery: would you please sign … for this? A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 61

For much of 1985 and 1986, my Friday evenings consisted of dashing home after school, loading the Urvan and travelling find a reliable contractor to move the structure. up the Calder, to attack the work site. The plaster on the laths had to be With gas lantern lit, it was out with stripped off so that it did not litter the highway in transit; chimneys mattock, shovel and hammer to embrace and lean-to sections at the back of any task that was possible to do in the the house had to be dismantled. The contractors removed the roof, leaving semi-darkness … Full moonlight was the dismantled framework on the always very much welcomed. ceiling joists, bisected the house via the hallway, jacked it up and loaded it onto the two very long metal rails some prior heavy rain period, Early thinking favoured some form with wheels at the rear that provided when a very significant of kit home. Then, coincidence and the carriage trailer. Subsequently, section at the back of the good fortune came our way when the house was moved in two major centre of the wall was washed away. our friends Bob and Rosie Harris sections that had to be transported Due to consolidation of the wall over needed to clear their federation up Commissioners Gully and time, the centre of the wall had been era weatherboard house from their Goldspeck Gully Roads (known then left lower than the usual overflow block in Surrey Hills to make way as Parsons Road) because the then channel, rendering it prone to erosion for a new residence. We readily Cemetery Road bridge and adjacent when the dam overflowed. accepted their offer of a house. trees did not enable passage for such At first we camped on the Hence followed frenzied activity a large cargo. One person sat atop the block while we considered our in March 1984 to produce plans house, chainsaw in hand, to trim the accommodation options, the solution and documents that would be odd branch or two along the route. needing to be one we could afford. acceptable to Metcalfe Shire and to The contractors positioned the two

Home delivery: would you please sign … for this? Getting there, but still a long way to go. PHOTOS: KEN SAVAGE 62 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS

sections, dug the stump holes with lit, it was out with mattock, shovel In the early days, in the mid much difficulty due to the nature and hammer to embrace any task 1980s, lighting was provided by eight of the terrain, and then lowered the that was possible to do in the semi- gas lamps; the existing electrical structure onto the stumps. The roof darkness, and then in the darkness, wiring for the house was connected frame was reassembled and new before midnight, and sometimes to the Honda generator, which was battens and corrugated iron installed. beyond. Full moonlight was always the source of electrical power for We paid their bill of $10,300 and they very much welcomed. many years. A petrol-fuelled pump departed. It was April 1984, only two The 2kVA Honda generator was was used to pump water from the months after we had been given the a constant and loyal companion on dam to a header tank, a good way up house. the worksite. Work continued apace the hill, and rain water for household My tasks were to fit external doors until Sunday evenings, when it was use to an adjacent header tank. It and some windows, construct new back to the city for the school week was not a lot of fun moving the pump back sections, including the kitchen, ahead. Getting the house to the and connecting up the two separate rebuild the chimneys, reconstruct the finished stage took over two years, water sources. Thirty years later, we verandahs, install guttering, remodel but work on it has never really ceased still use that pump for dam water some interior spaces, replaster walls as improvement possibilities have but since an upgrade in the electrical and ceilings, arrange for the plumber always been present, not the least provisions, the rain water now makes and spend many hours with paint the regular exterior painting cycles its journey via an electric water brush and paint pot in hand. A 5000 that keep coming around and, most pump. gallon concrete water tank had been recently, the new bathroom that Then, in the mid 1990s, the delivered and the septic system has been installed. When the major electrical system was first upgraded dug and installed before the arrival work on the house was completed, with the installation of a 5.5 kVA low onsite of the house. Only in Metcalfe a mudbrick carport and shed and a rev, relatively quiet, diesel generator did one have to leave the septic timber workshop were added. with battery storage and inverter. tank 6 inches above ground In 2000, solar panels were level and paint it black (to aid installed and the original the bacterial action was the batteries, which were not up theory). to the job, were replaced by For much of 1985 and some with greater capacity. 1986, my Friday evenings Finally, a recent upgrade of consisted of dashing home the inverter from 1.5 kW to a after school, loading the 3.00 kW unit has the system Urvan and travelling up the working very efficiently. Calder against the much too Our Bushlands house frequent northeasterlies, to was the weekender for my attack the work site. Meg immediate family for many and the children, who often years, sometimes frequently accompanied me, were a great occupied, sometimes not. source of unpaid labour when A vast array of friends they were around; however, their weekend activities in the Enjoying a rather potent city frequently saw me as the brew of eucalyptus tea sole traveller. With gas lantern served at the Outback Cafe. A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 63

Dusk can provide the spectacle of the resident sugar gliders creeping out from the house ceiling onto the roof and Bushlands for us has been the relatively unspoiled nature of this making their amazing leaps from tree to spasmodically occupied area and tree, although their noisy return early in the joy of being in a bush retreat, escaping the hustle and bustle of city the morning is not always appreciated. life. We look forward to our visits to a diverse and accepting community, comfortable in the knowledge that managed to join us from more recent years, our grandchildren, neighbours are keeping an eye on the time to time; all indications have become part of the regular property when we are not around. were that they thoroughly contingent to visit the block. The It is always a thrill to see the enjoyed their visits. Encounters cubby, christened the Outback Cafe, kangaroos bounding past on their with a kangaroo or two, a wander is a major drawcard for them, as is the way to graze in the valley below, as through the bush, a roast from the dam. We now spend our time between is listening to the many birds and slow combustion stove with suitable the city and the bush and consider watching their antics. We enjoy the accompanying beverage seemed to ourselves to be very fortunate in glorious sunsets and the shafts of please most. And, when the weather having such options. Since 2001, I golden light that tinge the foliage of was suitable and the leeches not too have become much more involved the eucalypts as the sun descends prevalent, a plunge from the pontoon in community activities and helped beyond the hills. Dusk can also for a frolic in the dam was the icing in the establishment of the Chewton provide the spectacle of the resident on the cake. Bushlands Association, which I believe sugar gliders creeping out from I took up permanent residence in helps develop and maintain the social the house ceiling onto the roof and the Bushlands in 2001 after selling my cohesion of this special community. making their amazing leaps from city abode. Some time before this, Meg Always, the appeal of the tree to tree, although their noisy and I had gone our return early in separate ways so the morning I did not spend a is not always great deal of time appreciated. There at Chewton. Our is much to enjoy friends Rosie and here, in sitting on Bob, who had the verandah at given us their almost any time of house for removal day, taking in the back in 1983, had beauty of the bush, also separated. noting its changes Through season to season coincidence and and over the years. good fortune, Rosie joined Ken, Rosie and me in sharing the house, with the delights of its 2014 coat of the Chewton paint—the fourth Bushlands. In in thirty years. 64 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS The Cook family’s story

’75 ’76 ’77 ’78 ’79 ’80 ’81 ’82 ’83 ’84 ’85 ’86 ’87 ’88 ’89 ’90 ’91 ’92 ’93 ’94 ’95 ’96 ’97 ’98 ’99 ’00 ’01 ’02 ’03 ’04 ’05 ’06 ’07 ’08 ’09 ’10 ’11 ’12 ’13 ’14 ’15

ushlands pioneers. Prior to coming to this part of moving to Chewton he was working Victoria, Tony had led an interesting on the beautiful function room at It all had to do with life. He had restored a house for the the Lovegrove Vineyard & Winery in B the desire for a bush artist Albert Tucker, which contact Cottles Bridge. block, something a bit perhaps helped develop He’d also worked as a wool Tony’s creative streak. classer, and then as a barman at rugged, natural and The first mudbrick the St Andrews pub. Even unspoilt. house that he worked with his back problems he Tony had always loved the bush on was built with Peter had the sort of confidence and knew he’d know that right block Wallace at Smiths Gully that led him to believe when he saw it. Sure enough, there and he subsequently he could turn his hand it was—Lot 16, 81 Miners Hut Road. worked on many other Lot 16 to most things. For It had the view, that special remote mudbrick houses in the instance, when quality and it was affordable. Tony Nillumbik area; the first he first came paid $11,000 for it in 1984, and load bearing mudbrick to Chewton, he considered it a bargain. house he built on his own was in worked at the Wattle Gully and the Tony, Linda and baby daughter Woodend in 1973. It is not surprising Prince of Wales mines; he also took Sarah, who were living in that Tony became familiar with, and up whatever other work he could Hurstbridge at the time, had come somewhat inspired by, the design find. up from Melbourne to visit friends principles of the architects Alistair The early 1980s was an exciting in Castlemaine. While there, they Knox and Robert Marshall, both of time in Victoria. Tony, being a travelled all about the countryside whom he knew. Immediately before multitalented man, jumped at the looking for that perfect spot. From Castlemaine the family visited Dunolly and other possible locales in the area, until finally they called on Max Cassidy Real Estate on Templeton Street, whose agent showed them what he had for sale up here.

Tony and Laurie Cook. A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 65

The view to Mt Tarrengower from Lot 16. chance to build his own mudbrick mudbrick houses in the Bushlands. Hellawells (see page 47), Laurie house with a low interest loan offered The family set up a caravan on Leslie, Enid Hall (see page 54) and by the then Labor government of their chosen lot of 2-plus hectares Ray Lindstrom (see page 50); each John Cain. He had seen a small and, with the help of some mates, had experience and local knowledge advertisement in the Sun newspaper built their first house. Friendly that they were happy to share. for a Mudbrick Scheme that would neighbours were delighted to offer Building with mudbricks is hard fund such building and applied. A advice and encouragement: the work. The soil, arranged by Tony to Ministry of Housing representative met Tony onsite, asked him for an outline of the building requirements and an estimate of cost. Before he knew it, he had been approved for a loan of $23,000 to build his house. The conditions of these loans changed over time, but in Tony’s case, he received no actual cash; all of his accounts were sent directly from the supplier to the ministry, who paid the accounts. Tony laughs now: he found that the building did not cost as much as he had anticipated, so he was able to make the loan cover the purchase of a fridge. As life eventuated, we now have Tony to thank for four unique

Tony’s muddie on Lot 16. 66 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS

be brought in by a local contractor, was so good a mix of sand and clay that his bricks did not have to contain straw. Each load of soil, which was about 10 cubic metres, was shovelled off the truck and worked in stages: first a pile of dirt, then water was added, then it was mixed to a wet, muddy consistency. Then, more dirt, more water and more mixing, and so on, until all the dirt was in a single muddy pile. The pile was covered to enable it to cook overnight, during which process, the water gets absorbed. But the mud has to be repeatedly worked, turned over and puddled to reach The rail carriage on Lot 20: an early prefabricated residence … the right consistency before it can be put into moulds. For this, Tony Just waiting to be built on was Laurie had been living in Croydon used a pelican pick, a tool used by another site, right across the way and working as a bookkeeper in East prospectors and miners. With just a at Lot 21 on Goldspeck Gully Road. Ringwood. All of her four children single mould he could This block does not have the had left home and were now busy make 250 to 300 bricks beauty of the first, but it’s with their own families. It was the a day. No wonder his a good one nevertheless. right moment for her to make a back gave out. Once again, the earlier change, and change she did. The house took experiences gained in In 1992 Laurie retired from her Lot 21 house building were job, sold the house in Croydon and a while to build, and life in the caravan put to good use. The moved into the railway carriage that cannot have been easy. mudbrick house was parked on Lot 20, 184 Goldspeck Linda was already pregnant that now stands there has a charm Gully Road, which property she with their second child, Beau. But all of its own and is a credit to Tony’s bought from Peter Reed, who had the Cooks were very happy, and considerable skill. been using it as a holiday retreat. when it was eventually finished, At this stage, things began to This was no ordinary railway the house was very comfortable. change for the Cooks. Linda had carriage. It had water tanks, a The view southwest over towards grown tired of Bushlands life and generator, a fully functioning dunny Castlemaine and beyond is superb, decided to move on to other things, and bottled gas for hot water and and sunsets from the patio are taking the children with her. cooking. After living in Croydon, spectacular. This was enough to raise During all this time, Laurie, Tony’s Laurie felt as though she was on a everyone’s spirits. But as the years mother, had been making regular visits never-ending holiday. Laurie lived passed, money became short, so here. She grew to love the area just as in the carriage while Tony set about when the opportunity came to sell much as Tony did. As it happens, while building for her—mudbrick house the house on Lot 16 at a profit, the Tony was living at Lot 21, Lot 20, right number three for him—which took Cooks took it. next door, came up for sale. him about six months, so Laurie A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 67

with essential infrastructure. The muddie on Lot 20: at last Laurie’s permanent home. PHOTO: TIM PURDIE didn’t have to wait too long before and each one fits very comfortably he was often seen walking barefoot she could move into what has into its Bushlands environment. through the land with his dog Penny now become her comfortable Tony has since retired from at his side. home. building houses but he did keep Laurie and Tony belong to that very Meanwhile, Tony sold his hand in over a number of years small group of people in the Bushlands his second house and helping others to build who built their house, made it their subsequently moved theirs. He worked home and have resided in it ever since. into the railway carriage. on the house on Lot Laurie, now in her nineties, From there he went on 22, helped Gary and continues to take pleasure in the to build his own house Lot 20 Michael on Lot 11 and wonderful sunset views and plans a short distance from worked on Cate’s house to keep doing that for the rest of Laurie’s—mudbrick house on Lot 15. His love of her days. She is a true inspiration to number four, Tony’s last home. the Bushlands led him all of us. Possessor of a witty, wise What an accomplishment. to explore it from end to end; and humorous pioneer spirit, long Each of the houses may she keep on enjoying has its own specific her holiday lifestyle. The character and design. Laurie and Tony belong to that Chewton Bushlands would Small touches, such be a lesser place if Laurie as recycled stained very small group of people in and Tony had not decided to glass windows, the Bushlands who built their settle here. personalised entrances and interesting floor house, made it their home and Laurie died on 17 June 2015 finishes, give each of have resided in it ever since. at the age of 95. She will be the houses a distinct greatly missed. and subtle personality, 68 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS Gary Van Den Driesen’s story

’75 ’76 ’77 ’78 ’79 ’80 ’81 ’82 ’83 ’84 ’85 ’86 ’87 ’88 ’89 ’90 ’91 ’92 ’93 ’94 ’95 ’96 ’97 ’98 ’99 ’00 ’01 ’02 ’03 ’04 ’05 ’06 ’07 ’08 ’09 ’10 ’11 ’12 ’13 ’14 ’15

n 1984, my then partner David Williams and I room, carports and verandahs. bought this unimproved block (then known as Lot In 1990, after some years of a deteriorating relationship, David and I 11, Wallaby Crescent) from its original owner, Tim I went our separate ways. I stayed Crichton. Tim had recently become engaged, and his and he moved back to Melbourne, where, sadly, he died in 1991 of bride to be was not enthused about living so far from alcohol poisoning. Melbourne at a time when Fourth generation Castlemaine from the Melbourne suburb of resident Michael Kuhle bought into the Calder Freeway did not Mentone. When David and the property and moved in with exist and the Bushlands I moved into the house in me. We continue to live here was a two and a half hour March 1985, there was no quietly and harmoniously. In running water, no phone, 2002, we installed solar drive from Melbourne. no septic, no water panels and thereby David and I had been working tanks, no guttering, no dragged ourselves in the CBD, at Dun & Bradstreet and verandahs, no dining Lot 11 into the twenty-first Telecom Australia respectively, for room, no carports century, Bushlands a few years and had long wanted to and no electric power. style—electric lights, a move to the country but had found We survived via LPG, decent sound system and nothing suitable until this block came firewood, kero lights and home theatre. No more 12 volt on the market. an icebox. We television run Our immediate neighbours were loved it and off the car Steve and Helen Key, who later sold never regretted battery. their property to Tim Ford and Annie making what in Also O’Shannessy. Uphill from us was later decades in 2002, Laurie Leslie, one of the original would become I realised a residents. Also resident close by at known as a tree secret and that time were Ken and Meg Savage, change. long-held Sandra Watson and her partner Hans, Our septic ambition— Peter and Susan Hellawell, Tony and was installed I finally Linda Cook, Jenny Higgs, Enid Hall, by local got to paint Ann Quinton (see ‘Personal journeys’, identity and the house page 70) and her grandson Paul, Ray colourful watermelon and Nicole Lindstrom, and Mick and character, This is the spot for a house. pink. Helen Melican. earthmover Life is Purchase price for this property Kevin ‘Casha’ Wilson and his son Joe. good here, and neither Michael nor in 1984 was $9500—very reasonable, In 1986, Tony Cook (Beau and Sarah’s I have any wish to live elsewhere. even in those days. An additional father) built our chimney, and built it We drive past the Chewton Cemetery $12,000 was then spent buying well; Mick Melican, ably assisted by almost every day, and we know and transporting an unloved 1940s local men John McBride and Graeme that one day we will remain there two bedroom weatherboard house ‘Bushy’ Holden, added the dining indefinitely. A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 69

Another home delivery: (top) looking east and (below) the watermelon dream. 70 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS Ann Quinton’s story

’75 ’76 ’77 ’78 ’79 ’80 ’81 ’82 ’83 ’84 ’85 ’86 ’87 ’88 ’89 ’90 ’91 ’92 ’93 ’94 ’95 ’96 ’97 ’98 ’99 ’00 ’01 ’02 ’03 ’04 ’05 ’06 ’07 ’08 ’09 ’10 ’11 ’12 ’13 ’14 ’15

y bushlands site has had various lot was very steep all over. Eventually,

identifications since I bought it in I went back to the M 1985. I thought that no one had ever block that is now my home, Lot 4. Previously, lived on it before. Now I have come to realise Lot 4 I had dismissed this one that the original people, the Dja Dja Wurrung because the level area had people, lived here for many generations, when been chopped out of the side of the hill. This created it was a gentle forested area with small creeks a cliff at the back above the meandering down the house site, and a very steep the area. When I grew up, this was slope on the other side. I worried hills to feed what the regarded as ‘just bush’. To me, it was that my grandchildren might fall over newcomers would name a wilderness where I never went in the edge. my many childhood wanderings. But on my return, when I fought the Loddon River system. On my bike, I often rode around it to see the view through the coffee After the Bushlands was along Golden Point Road to the Koala bush that had completely overgrown subdivided in the 1970s, the blocks Park, then to Elphinstone, back past the site, I fell in love with the were prepared for sale by building Tunnel Hill and home to Pitman wonderful vista. In the distance were driveways, dams and house sites. Street. When I went bush, I used to the Pyrenees ranges, Mount Franklin To Metcalfe Shire Council, my block walk across the railway tracks into and Mount Tarrengower. started life as Lot 4, then became the bush there, where, if I stayed I realised that the level area for 126, and now is 46 Miners Hut Road, still and the house was a Chewton, although the CFA still call it quiet, I would good quarter of an ‘118, off Cemetery Road’. sometimes acre and decided In 1985, I was living in Campbells see the bush that the grandkids Creek in a little cottage that was in creatures that would have to need of repairs that I could not afford. I loved so learn not to go So I decided to sell it and buy back much. near the cliff. into Chewton, the area that I grew up The first So. I sold the in, although I couldn’t afford to buy block I liked Campbells Creek an already built house. Many people was being house for about were building their own homes and advertised $26,000, paid I asked my children if they would as having $8500 for the land help me build in the bush. They ‘a levelled in the Chewton agreed—bless them—as long as they building site Bushlands and didn’t have to make mudbricks. and a dam’. bought a more Bush lots on the Bushlands Estate There was no reliable car to were being advertised at reasonable dam, and the cart myself to prices, so I went to look at several Castlemaine sites. I was surprised by the beauty of Ann Quinton. and back. A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 71

For several years I used 12 volt batteries to listen to the radio, and to watch my little black and white television. My lighting was kerosene lamps and I had a gas stove and refrigerator. Now, I have two solar panels and an inverter and can run a colour digital television and a computer from them, which puts me in touch with the world via the internet. Through the years, I have been thrilled by the wonderful wildlife that shares its habitat with me. From One concrete block at a time. the timid wallabies, which I fed during the drought, to the various snakes who visit my front verandah during the summer months, and, of course, myriad birds of all kinds that bring music and colour to my garden. My only sadness is that many, many creatures have disappeared as more and more humans moved here and brought their precious pets, their fear of snakes and their lack of natural knowledge to this place which has taken more than a hundred years to renew itself from the devastation of the goldrush era. To complete my wellbeing, I have, with the help and support of the beaut neighbours around here, finally been able to get a Trust for Nature covenant, so my Lot 4 in For eighteen months, I lived in lift it off. Problem the Chewton Bushlands is now a caravan at the back of the level solved. I remember safe from the machinations of area but I was terrified for the first how wonderfully future developers. few nights when the August wind safe I felt the first threatened to blow me off the cliff night I slept in my and down to the road below. solid, unmoving The boys’ solution was to dig the Besser caravan’s wheels into the ground so block the wind couldn’t get under it and home. 72 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS Ray Pentony’s story

’75 ’76 ’77 ’78 ’79 ’80 ’81 ’82 ’83 ’84 ’85 ’86 ’87 ’88 ’89 ’90 ’91 ’92 ’93 ’94 ’95 ’96 ’97 ’98 ’99 ’00 ’01 ’02 ’03 ’04 ’05 ’06 ’07 ’08 ’09 ’10 ’11 ’12 ’13 ’14 ’15

hese days, most of us would have a hard time place in the bush. In living without the benefit of electricity, but 1983, she purchased Lot 13 in the Chewton T it doesn’t seem to bother Ray. Although Bushlands and set he has solar panels on the roof of his house, he about realising that hasn’t had them connected for years. He does Lot 13 dream. She took up a state government have a landline phone, and gas for cooking, hot low interest loan and water and a fridge, but began designing and building History and Politics, then went her own mudbrick home. he manages to live quite into the field of education and Between 1984 and 1987, comfortably without gained his Diploma while she was the luxury of electricity— of Education building, she at Melbourne rented a small or a car. Teachers’ College, shack on Sir He had a bike for a while, which he another experience Les Thornton’s rode in and out of Castlemaine, but he greatly values. country estate as traffic increased and his chances of It was while known as ending up as a ‘smear on the Pyrenees working in ‘Bonkers’. Once Highway that someone would have Footscray in her muddie was to hose off’ became more likely, a Program of completed, she Ray gave it up and took to walking Education for moved into her instead. There’s usually someone Unemployed house on Lot 13, driving a car, going back and forth to Youth that he and then offered town, who’ll give him a lift, and the met a young Ray the space exercise of walking on most days is woman named she’d been living enjoyable, beneficial to his health and Jennifer Higgs. in at ‘Bonkers’. environmentally sustainable. This meeting Without Ray was born in Northern Ireland was to prove hesitation he but left there at the age of two when auspicious, for it jumped at the the family moved to London, where provided Ray with chance to move they spent the next fourteen years the opportunity out of the city before coming to Australia. When they to flee the city and live in a settled in Melbourne, Ray attended and to reject, shack that was so Northcote High School, and then, in his words, Ray Pentony. greatly esteemed after matriculating, went to Monash the bourgeois in the shire. University. At that time Monash was tendencies that may have resulted if Within twelve months of living a university in its heyday, so student he’d continued living there. at Lot 13, Jennifer wanted to move years at Monash were lively. Jennifer, meanwhile, had back to the city. She offered Ray the Ray was very happy there. He moved out of Melbourne to fulfil opportunity of renting her house. In graduated with a degree in English her aspiration of building her own November 1989, he moved in. In the A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 73

years prior to that date, he had been spending four days in the city and three days in the Bushlands, which he gave up and from then on became a full time Bushlander. When, in 2002, Jennifer put the house up for sale, she gave Ray the first option to buy it. After thinking about it for a full five minutes, Ray said yes. Then followed a six month negotiation with the bank that finally led to his ownership of the house at 119 Miners Hut Road. From that moment on, he made Ray's muddie: ‘A bird has just landed’. a full commitment to a Bushlands lifestyle. A tree is a poem that the earth sweeps back in an angle to the rise These are the basic facts, but writes across the sky. We cut them of stone behind it. In front there’s a they do little to explain what the down and turn them into paper that wonderful westerly view out over move meant to Ray on an emotional we may record our emptiness. the valley that falls away towards level. The city had been his métier, — kahlil gibran Goldspeck Gully Road, and but increasingly in his late thirties, The affluent society then on far beyond to he had become alienated from that is a society at war … Mount Tarrengower. way of life. He had begun to view it If its citizens have From the highest as ‘fast, furious and mostly futile’. not noticed it, its point on the lot When the opportunity came up to victims certainly looking in an move away he saw it as one not to have. easterly direction, be missed. Ray likes to sum up his — herbert far off in the present feelings with these quotes. marcuse distance, there Only after the Last Tree has been Technology is is view of Mount cut down, only after the Last River has not the basis of our Macedon. been poisoned, only after the Last Fish society, compassion The house itself has been caught, only then will you is. — dalai lama is all angles. As Ray find that money cannot be eaten. There is much to be puts it, ‘It looks like a bird — cree prophecy reflected on in these quotes, that’s just landed or is about Not that I want to be a god or a much that most of us who live here to take off’. It was built by a man hero, just to change into a tree, grow can relate to. named Dick Anderson, who was also for ages, not hurt anyone. Ray is the proud owner of a responsible for building other houses — czeslaw milosz very beautiful and unique house. It in and around Golden Point Road. 74 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS

Sadly, Dick died in his early fifties but not before leaving a wonderful legacy of his craftsmanship and skill, as can be seen in Ray’s house. When Ray first came to this area he did some occasional work teaching literacy at the junior high school, and later, to adults. He was not unhappy about giving that up. At present, he does volunteer work at Buda Historic Home and Garden and at the Castlemaine Information Centre, work he greatly enjoys. Ray also takes pleasure in participating in Castlemaine’s cafe culture. There was a time when, he says, he was a very gregarious person who craved the company of others. A contemplative environment. This is no longer the case. At around about the age of forty Ray found that having time alone to contemplate was essential to his sense of wellbeing. He now likes to spend at least two days a week in isolation, with just the natural environment for company. This is something that can be easily achieved in the Buddhist like atmosphere of his retreat in the Bushlands. There are places, such as the Wesley Hill Market and the op shops in town, where Ray often spends time rummaging around looking for those special treasures, particularly books, as reading is a favourite pastime. By living frugally, his needs are few. Ray rarely leaves the Bushlands nowadays, except to go into town or to make an annual visit to family in Perth. The Chewton Bushlands, which has become his physical and spiritual home, is where he expects to spend the rest of his life. A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 75

Looking west down Miners Hut Road. PHOTO: TIM PURDIE 76 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS Charles Affleck’s story

’75 ’76 ’77 ’78 ’79 ’80 ’81 ’82 ’83 ’84 ’85 ’86 ’87 ’88 ’89 ’90 ’91 ’92 ’93 ’94 ’95 ’96 ’97 ’98 ’99 ’00 ’01 ’02 ’03 ’04 ’05 ’06 ’07 ’08 ’09 ’10 ’11 ’12 ’13 ’14 ’15

harles affleck describes himself as a Gully Road. While the loan seemed musician, arranger and pianist. He has worked generous ($55,000 to purchase land and build a house, with an interest Cas a music teacher in the Castlemaine area for rate of 3 per cent, indexed at CPI just on thirty years. As his and repayments pegged at 25 per A post and beam cent of the borrower’s income), story reveals, he is also a framed mudbrick it would not go far if new, muddie builder. house, Charles fell in conventional materials were Born in Chicago, Charles moved love with it. He also used. However, as Charles to Sydney with his family in 1961 fell in love with the Lot said: ‘Levelling a when he was 11. As a typical boy in scrubby regrowth bush space to make room Sydney at that time he developed a and the quality of light for a house leaves keen interest in rugby. Fortunately and sound here. 26 a big pile of dirt. for Charles, his family moved to In 1989, he received Perfect. A no brainer. Melbourne in 1965 and he discovered a loan from the state Use it to build my house. All that there was more to life—music. government’s self-build scheme and the dirt came out of here … It is Charles matriculated to study bought the block at Lot 26 in Dishpan good clay.’ music at the University of Melbourne, but after a year, quit formal study. He also quit piano and took up guitar. He didn’t seriously play piano again until 1984, when he got a job as a ballet pianist at the Merilyn Byrne Dance School in Brighton, and hasn’t played guitar much since then. In the intervening years Charles did further study and worked at many different jobs. He completed most of an Asian Studies degree at Murdoch University in Perth, which he completed in 1988 at LaTrobe University, along with a Dip Ed, after which he moved up to the Chewton Bushlands. His first experience of this area was in 1975 when he was taken to visit David and Buffy Wallace who lived in the settlement at the end of Madigans Road, just over the hill from Pye Rankine’s place on the northwest corner of the Bushlands subdivision. Footings for Charles’ muddie nearly complete at the start of August 1989. A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 77

The best test for a brick, Charles of the 2500 bricks used for the whole from his dad, the timber was moved said, ‘is to drop it. If it shatters, house were made that weekend, with and stacked. All the timber except, don’t use it. If it breaks in half use it two moulds, each of which made that is, the large quarter tonne beam as two bricks.’ The idea is that ‘If it four bricks, while a constant stream that was cut to make the two spans stays there it is finished … It is not of wheelbarrows ran from the mud in the middle of the building: one of going anywhere. Mudbrick is very pit. Only 300–400 more bricks were four metres, the other five metres. forgiving. You can make it pretty or needed. Those beams could not be moved. just leave it pretty rough. You can The design went through several Then, with all the posts up and render it and hide your mistakes changes. The draftsperson, ‘quite everything braced, help came in the or point the bricks to outline the a stylish young woman’, Charles form of two friends who were both courses.’ This was how Charles remembers, came out to the muddie partially sighted. The beams were approached his mudbrick making and site wearing stiletto heels, it was carried into the house and raised laying. So the build began. observed, for discussions. The timber using pulleys, the main difficulty Charles has many stories of for the frame was delivered one being to get them high enough. Next concrete strip footings being poured afternoon and Charles rode a bicycle came the roof, with Charles’ mum in the winter of 1989, the frame being uphill all the way to help unload (‘I Naomi handing up sheets of roofing raised in December, and in January hadn’t ridden a bicycle for years and iron. After that came the walls. 1990, of a working bee, complete haven’t ridden one since’). It was not Antoinette Birkenbeil first visited with barbecue, beer and family. Most until a few weeks later that, with help the Bushlands in January 1990 when

Framing likewise four months later. And roofing after that … approved by canine inspector Sam. 78 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS

she came to help her friend Charles Charles has accompanied make his mudbricks. She had no performers such as Jan Wozitsky idea of the immensity of the task of (aka Bill Smith, formerly of The building a whole house, even though Bushwackers) in his critically she hoped to one day do it herself, acclaimed show about the Australian which was a good reason to come experience of the Gallipoli campaign, along to the building day. Little did Lest We Forget, talented jazz singer she—or Charles—know that, in the Suzie Dickinson, and puppeteer future, she would move into this and storyteller Peter Fernon. He house as Charles’ wife. has composed music for actor and Charles began playwright David camping in his Watson, and has Lois Affleck exiting the sleeping loft. house on 27 April been musical 1990, just one year director for the after starting the successful Three is build. One wall was a Crowd production missing. The doors company at were not hung but Castlemaine’s Phee just propped in Broadway Theatre place. The windows for The Little Shop were in and the slate of Horrors, 25th floor was laid. The Annual Putnam piano was brought County Spelling Bee in through the and Lucky Stiff. missing wall and A rich life, placed at the end embedded in the Grandson Jhet waiting for dinner. of the living space. Spring thyme. sound and light of Slowly, over the the bushlands, in a next couple of years, the house took house that sits well on its hill: mud shape and, in time, a certificate of walls that are not rendered inside, occupancy was granted. clerestory windows, huge timbers, a The rich cultural atmosphere slate floor, a pergola on the north and of Castlemaine has provided many the whole surrounded by wildflowers musical associations. Over the years in spring. This place has adapted Charles has worked as an arranger or to life’s changes. Handcrafted, performed as a musician for bands, homemade does not please orchestras and many other shows, everyone, but skills are learnt and including Allan Watson’s Jazz Band, an appreciation of the idea that not Steve Murphy’s Castlemania and the everything must be bought, much stunning cabaret-style orchestra, The can be recycled and many things can Charles and Jim Coad creating Flaming Flamingos, at the opening of be given new purpose is passed on. soundscape for Trace for the 2013 the 2009 biennial Castlemaine State Such is the way of life for Charles Castlemaine State Festival. Festival. Affleck and Antoinette Birkenbeil. A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 79 Roland Moswick’s story

’75 ’76 ’77 ’78 ’79 ’80 ’81 ’82 ’83 ’84 ’85 ’86 ’87 ’88 ’89 ’90 ’91 ’92 ’93 ’94 ’95 ’96 ’97 ’98 ’99 ’00 ’01 ’02 ’03 ’04 ’05 ’06 ’07 ’08 ’09 ’10 ’11 ’12 ’13 ’14 ’15

he legendary roland, knight errant of The prospect of Australia becoming involved in yet another war and Charlemagne’s court, rode a horse, carried an the thought of raising a child in T indestructible sword the city were enough to motivate and battled giants. As feel a bit like a displaced person who him to make a move. How far could viewed Melbourne as a kind of labour one go under the circumstances? well, he made himself camp. While he worked at a variety of The Chewton Bushlands seemed heard by using an jobs in the city, Roland far enough. continued to yearn for After relocating to this area, unbreakable horn. a simpler life, such as Roland was employed by IGA in A horn is something our Roland he had encountered on Castlemaine, where he worked does not need to draw attention to his travels. Although he for several years doing various what he does. He has made himself bought his house in 1995, Lot jobs, including product heard in Castlemaine through the he was, for a while yet, just manager. But he was always work he does at the Mount Alexander a weekender. filled with a desire for Community Information Centre. Two events brought 39 change and, eventually, As well, his bike serves him better about a change. One was the he voluntarily than a horse, and the hills he rides catastrophe of 11 September 2001 disengaged from the each day are just as daunting as any in the USA, the other the news that mainstream economy and mediaeval giant. he was about to become a parent. swore that he’d ‘never work for Roland bought his place on Lookout Ridge Road on 11 March 1995 and has lived there permanently for the last thirteen years. He considers it one of the best things he ever did in his life. When he first saw it he said, ‘That’s it’, and it is. Roland Moswick, protester and pacifist, came from a German Polish background. He lived first in Sydney, but left there in 1972 to avoid conscription to Vietnam, and the possibility of being penalised for his activist role during the 1971 South African Springbok Rugby Team tour. He moved to Melbourne, where he lived for a time in Albert Park within sight of Station Pier, the very spot where his family had disembarked from Europe to begin their life in Australia. This sometimes led him to Roland's house, one of the nine original stone cottages. 80 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS

immediately at hand, there is a naturalness about the final product that lends itself to its environment in a way not found when using other means. As you can see from the plan on page 25, the house is made of stone. It is set on a 15 centimetre thick solid concrete base that is approximately 7 x 10 metres in size. The 35 centimetre thick walls are built of local stone and slate, and the hardwood beams support a sloping galvanised iron roof. Inside, it is fitted, as were each of the Parsons houses, with a gas The original stone cottage verandah. stove, gas hot water service, stainless steel sink, approved septic system, a capitalist again’. Since making that was reminded of those moments, and shower recess and a potbelly stove. decision, he has been a volunteer for as he looked about at the surrounding Access to the second floor is the Mount Alexander Shire, working scenery, with Mount Alexander in the via a custom-built spiral staircase. in community services. distance, he could almost imagine Since moving in, Roland has made a When he lived in Melbourne it covered with snow, number of improvements he had become familiar with the and the house and its and upgrades, including Bushlands area through friends accompanying carved tree, the creation of walls and who had settled just south of the a red box eucalypt, as a paving on the exterior. Bushlands. In 1995, while looking Nepalese abode. The tree Like many of us who for what is now Ray Lindstrom’s even had a plinth at its live in the Bushlands, property, which was up for sale, he base, much like those seen Roland is fond of the saw another ‘For Sale’ sign at Lot 39, in Nepal, placed that way solitude to be found there, Lookout Ridge Road. And so began, in order for the porters to its wildlife and its rugged at that moment, a new chapter in take rest with their burden Roland Moswick. natural beauty. He pumps Roland’s life. balanced behind them. his water up by hand In his earlier travels Roland had Once he went inside the house, because he enjoys doing so, just as spent time in India and Nepal. On what was there not to like about he enjoys collecting and chopping his these adventures he realised that one its spiral staircase, stone walls and own wood and riding the roads on his doesn’t necessarily need very much efficient utility area? It took only a bike. in order to live a fulfilled life. Some matter of days of negotiation and the Originally, he wanted to buy of his happiest moments were spent house became his. The house itself all three of the surrounding lots trekking through the mountains of is one of those built by Brian Parsons. and close off all but the entrance Nepal where one could travel for We don’t know if Brian ever went to to his own place, but the cost of days in the peace and quiet, rarely Nepal, but it seems likely that when doing so was too much. When John encountering any sign of modernity. building a house that is constructed Richardson came and built on Lot When he saw the house on Lot 39 he primarily of the materials that are 40, Roland quickly became used to A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 81

‘You may watch for eagles’: from the top of the Bushlands, looking east past the red box Nepalese abode. having a neighbour. John arrived with Reference is made in that article Today, every spring, summer an idea: the possibility of connecting to twelve building sites from which and early autumn, there are regular to the electricity grid. This would ‘You may watch for eagles … [and sightings of eagles, hawks and falcons have been financially impossible the] views are tremendous … You soaring overhead during the breeding for Roland to do on his own, but may look from Mt Lofty in the east and nesting season, and perching on with John paying his third and a past Mt Alexander [a]round to the tall timbers nearby. connection to Lot 38 also being part Harcourt and Maldon, to Daylesford As to whether the red box in front of the deal, it became manageable. on the southwest and Mt Macedon of the house was actually carved by a These are the only properties in the due south. The north westerly vista native hand, no one is certain. It is not Bushlands on mains power. extends even to the Pyrenees more hard to imagine that this particular For a brief time, this part of the than a 100 kilometres away.’ spot may well have been used by the Chewton Bushlands was advertised At that time you could have all Aborigines to view the happenings in as Mountview Estate. A picture this for $12,000 to $15,000 for an the surrounding countryside. What is of Roland’s house was used in the empty block or, for one with a stone beyond doubt is that the small stone advertisement at Cassidy’s Real Estate house on it, the cost was between tools found here indicate that this office in Castlemaine and in an article $38,000 to $42,000. As well as Lot 39 place has been used as a platform for in the Age real estate section of 18 there were Parsons-built houses on viewing the surrounding countryside November 1978. Lots 27 and 29. since long before our time. 82 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS Kim Windsor & Mark Carter’s story

’75 ’76 ’77 ’78 ’79 ’80 ’81 ’82 ’83 ’84 ’85 ’86 ’87 ’88 ’89 ’90 ’91 ’92 ’93 ’94 ’95 ’96 ’97 ’98 ’99 ’00 ’01 ’02 ’03 ’04 ’05 ’06 ’07 ’08 ’09 ’10 ’11 ’12 ’13 ’14 ’15

rom the otways to the strzelecki ranges, Kim questions: How does a water pump and I had been looking for a place in the country work? What’s the least exhausting way to chop firewood? How easy F for a few years, without success. We even went is it to blunt a chainsaw? Is it really to a workshop to learn about building a straw bale possible to cook things evenly in a wood combustion stove? How much house. Luckily, we found The block has changed hands a sun does it take to heat the water for our place in the Bushlands number of times since subdivision. a shower? Did spilt battery acid burn Brian Parsons sold our lot in June those holes in your pants? before those skills got 1980 to Ian and Lynette Protheroe. Some questions were easier to road tested. An old friend In July 1986, Ivan and Julie Muhar answer than others. After years of from Castlemaine knew bought it from them, and they sold drought we put in an extra water to Julianne Hallinan in December tank just in time for those drought- that a lot was up for sale 1988. Michael Cartwright breaking rains and, a couple of years and suggested we visit. and Shona Nunan were later, another to secure supply to the next to own the block our vegie beds and fruit trees. We did a fortnight before before they sold it to us in Digging, grading and lining its scheduled auction. August 2007. the pad for the new tank was We were immediately attracted Michael and Shona, our first opportunity to get to it: 7 kilometres from Castlemaine, really creative metal Lot some blisters and all-of- which was on the recently upgraded workers and sculptors, body muscle cramping. trainline to Melbourne, it was in constructed four buildings Next came earthworks the bush but close to a decent-sized in around 2000: a steel 3 for a dam, with regional town, off grid and it had and glass house with a swales to take water plenty or room for friends to stay. Our shipping container bursting across the block—a lot sits on the edge of the Bushlands, from its south side, a warp- lesson in taming water flows. abutting cleared land on its southern shaped corrugated iron studio, a six There was a fifty:fifty chance that the boundary. A rocky hill (smaller than metre cube that served as a workshop clay at the bottom of the hole would its neighbours), which rises in the and another shipping container hold water—if it rained. When it did, middle of the block, is surrounded by transformed into a guest bungalow, we learnt that sinking a whole hay gold dust wattle, coffee bush, stringy all unique spaces filled with natural bale into the water is considerably bark and box, all managing to thrive in light. more than what is required to rock hard mudstone, clay and a bit of We couldn’t have anticipated how encourage a mini ecosystem but just granite that falls away on all sides and this place would change our lives. enough to become a maxi methane allows us as much garden as we chose It’s given us space to slow down, to generator. to create. share time with neighbours, to rub Having dealt with water, we then The north-facing house is up against nature and to make things. got onto temperature. When you’re protected from stronger winds at We also couldn’t have anticipated cold you can’t just turn on the heater the level of the tree canopy and has what a steep learning curve it was and expect to be warm five minutes views over the distant canopy to the going to be, attempting to find later. When you’re not cold—months, northwest. some answers to those endless actually, years, before you get cold— A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 83

A shading solution to the enormous north facing windows materialised as a massive eave extension. the switch you turn on is that of the before a massive eave extension While working out the logistics chainsaw. This object, which can take materialised. We engaged Nick of living here, you get to look around off a limb in the blink of an eye, has Cartwright (no relation to Michael), at the amazingly diverse plants and shifted from being the stuff of horror a builder who likes a challenge, to wildlife with which we share this movies to just another tool in the install flywire screen doors, including place. shed. To better retain the warmth, a sliding one 4 x 2 metres, and then What once looked to us like we had local metal worker Andy Bull weatherise all the buildings. incredibly harsh, bare land comes install a 25 metre length of theatre It must be said that, year by year, alive with fungi and orchids, is curtain track so we could hang our increased global warming will make traversed by echidnas and wallabies four metre high curtains. living here way more challenging. Our and is spun up in webs of gold by If the winters are cold, the collective failure, so far, to urgently giant golden orb spiders. Who would summers can be heat strokingly hot, cut our carbon emissions to zero, want to be anywhere else? Twenty which we felt especially initially, as as the climate modelling shows us years ago, when visiting those friends the buildings had little ventilation. is necessary to avoid catastrophic living in Castlemaine, we drove Because it was a necessity, a summer warming, means the climate of through Chewton and I remember shading solution to the enormous central Victoria will, in a few short thinking: I could never live here. Can north facing windows took months— decades, be more like that of outback you believe that? I can hardly believe well, years, really—of investigation New South Wales. it myself. — mark carter 84 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS

Glen Harrison & Olwyn Jones’ story

’75 ’76 ’77 ’78 ’79 ’80 ’81 ’82 ’83 ’84 ’85 ’86 ’87 ’88 ’89 ’90 ’91 ’92 ’93 ’94 ’95 ’96 ’97 ’98 ’99 ’00 ’01 ’02 ’03 ’04 ’05 ’06 ’07 ’08 ’09 ’10 ’11 ’12 ’13 ’14 ’15

t’s said that you don’t home in Pascoe Vale and to make $110 today. The acreage was sold four choose a house, the the ultimate tree change. I, being more times before two lots, north of still tied to the city, would have to O’Hallorans Road down the Golden I house chooses you, and be content with a weekender in the Point Road end, were removed from there’s no better example goldfields. No complaints about that. the original title in 1976. Our property had once been part In 1977 the State Rivers and of this than our house. of a Crown grant to a John Henry Water Supply Commission served Towards the end of 2008, Glen Thomas of Hunter Street, Chewton, a notice relating to the compulsory and I were heading up the road on the the grant being made on 8 February acquisition of land, a 6 x 93 metre way to see our long-time friend Steve 1945. The land was comprised of strip at the western end of the Charman. Although tempted by the many Crown allotments that were cemetery. The transfer occurred on idea of buying a country property, we his to a depth of 50 feet (according 2 May 1978. Finally, on 23 September were not in the market for a house. to the Title paperwork), so I am 1980, our lot in Sparks Road (then If we were, why else would we drive assuming it was purchased with Cemetery Road) was separated straight past an open for inspection mining in mind. The total grant from the larger holding. A further sign by a bushy driveway? But covered a little over 44.5 hectares, 4.85 hecatres was split from the something, perhaps curiosity, made which included the land west of original grant on 4 October 1988. As us stop, back up and drive in—and the us, apart from that portion that far as I know, the rest is intact and is rest is history. was once Fitzy’s place, towards made up of twenty-two lots in total. For Glen, it was meant to be. He Golden Point Road and north of the We like to think that the first was ready to semi-retire, sell up his cemetery. The cost was equivalent to owners of our property, Eric and A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 85

Beth Ibbitson, really enjoyed moved into a phascogale surrounding fencelines. It’s no easy the eight years they spent box it was quite a battle for job, as the gorse defiantly springs Glen Harrison & Olwyn Jones’ story here. We have been reliably Glen to evict them. back time and time again, often from informed that they built 60 With good rains, long-dormant seeds. But every week the mudbrick home. the shrubs and trees through the growing season, without Having been potters, Sparks have thickened and fail, he goes on gorse patrol, doing I guess they knew a the understorey a lap around the block and treating thing or two about clay. now offers any gorse that appears to be intent on The Ibbitsons were the Road excellent habitat, resurrecting itself. It might as well lie pioneers, and all who have but when we first down and die now, because it has no come here have benefited came here, it was dry and home here. from their hard work. sparse (the drought was yet to Whether it is discovering new The land changed hands break), so we decided to introduce orchids each spring or identifying five more times before Glen more indigenous species, such another bird to add to the dozens became the seventh owner of this as a couple of gold dust wattles. we’ve listed, this place is our beautiful property. Our aim from These we protected with wire and paradise. It’s now officially ‘Land the start was to improve habitat by diligent weeding, and watered and for Wildlife’ and, through Trust weeding, planting and encouraging monitored them for many months. for Nature, the land has been indigenous plants, which would in Came spring, it slowly dawned on us covenanted, ensuring its protection turn entice native fauna. Introducing that our block was already covered into the future. nesting boxes has accelerated this. with healthy, mature specimens: Whenever people ask if he has We now have prime wildlife real hundreds of them were erupting into any regrets about moving to the estate, with comfy homes available flower all around us. Live and learn. country, Glen’s answer is always the for sugar gliders, phascogales, One of the biggest challenges same: ‘Only one regret—I wish I’d parrots, pardalotes and microbats, is gorse with which we conduct an done it sooner.’ but the word is out and spaces are ongoing battle. Slowly, painstakingly, Thank you, Sparks Road, for limited. Most creatures are good Glen has removed every remnant choosing us to take care of you. tenants, but when a colony of bees of this weed from the property and — olwyn jones 86 A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS Hannah Nicholas & Tim Purdie’s story

’75 ’76 ’77 ’78 ’79 ’80 ’81 ’82 ’83 ’84 ’85 ’86 ’87 ’88 ’89 ’90 ’91 ’92 ’93 ’94 ’95 ’96 ’97 ’98 ’99 ’00 ’01 ’02 ’03 ’04 ’05 ’06 ’07 ’08 ’09 ’10 ’11 ’12 ’13 ’14 ’15

he idea of buying a small house in the We still don’t know a great suburbs filled us with dread. We had deal about the history of our house yet, but we couldn’t be T dreams and a lifestyle we were chasing. happier. The bottom corner All we wanted was to be nestled on several Lot 1 of the block, just below the dams, has some fertile land acres of bush surrounded by kangaroos, that was once used as a wallabies, endangered frogs, indigenous flora and flower farm, evident in the a friendly community, occasional non-native flower Bushlanders, but we soon found that reaching up from the earth and the to have an internet buying a plot of land and building a decaying signs we’ve found around connection and be not too house was going to be near impossible the place from time to time. Some of due to the stringent planning controls. our neighbours have relayed stories far from Melbourne, just in We needed an existing house. of talented artists and musicians case we got a bit of cabin It took a while, but eventually, we residing here. It’s a place that feels fever. Not too much to ask, bought our first home on Sparks Road. conducive to creativity.

we thought. Misty morning in the Bushlands. We were renting on the Mornington Peninsula at the time and knew we had zero chance of fulfilling this goal there, given our meagre savings and the cost of real estate in the area. So we began to look further afield. Having spent much time in Castlemaine visiting family and enjoying the area, that was the logical choice. The day we first drove into the Chewton Bushlands to look at a piece of land, we knew we had found where we wanted to live. Stunning orchids graced the undulating hills, crimson rosellas lit up the box ironbark forest and a lone swamp wallaby warily observed us from a distance. When researching the Chewton Bushlands Association website we found stories detailing a colourful community of like-minded people and a rich history. It was settled. We wanted to become Chewton A DREAM REALISED ●7 PERSONAL JOURNEYS 87

Hannah Nicholas & Tim Purdie’s story We’ve been living here for two years now and still feel as if we’re on holidays. How can one not be inspired by these surrounds?

In the morning, when the curtains hot evening was a challenge. We community fireguard during are pulled back, the sun’s soft yellows have since installed a fly screen bushfire season, weeding days, social and oranges enchantingly filter door. Living off grid requires a gatherings and a shared respect for through the gum leaves, kangaroos little extra work, such as firing up the the Bushlands and the fauna that graze unfazed near the house, the generator on frosty mornings when inhabit it. For any community to endangered Bibron’s toadlets call out the solar power is running low. We flourish there must be renewal, and to one another and the yellow-tailed use gas sparingly, regularly check Bushlands newbies such as us are black cockatoos raucously devour water tanks and periodically top up enthusiastically welcomed by people vegetation and dance a prehistoric solar battery fluid levels. For all things old and new to the area. dance. We’ve been living here for two plumbing, electrical, structural and All of us are merely short-term years now and still feel as if we’re on mechanical, Google has become our caretakers of this beautiful piece of holidays. How can one not be inspired best friend. country we call home. Once we’ve by these surrounds? The people here are friendly. gone there’ll be more newbies, more It hasn’t been all beer and skittles Everyone respects one another’s renewal, more history, but we don’t though. Relocating a feisty tiger snake space, but are always willing to plan on going anywhere else any that came through the front door one lend a hand when needed. There’s a time soon.

Hannah and the non-native wildlife. Don’t fence me in. 88 A DREAM REALISED ●CHEWTON7 PERSONAL BUSHLANDS JOURNEYS STORIES

Heavy rains break the drought in 2010. PHOTO: STEVE CHARMAN