Your Guide to Rome

Home , Baths of Caracalla, Galleria Spada, Museo di Roma, Piazza Venezia, Spanish Steps, Via dei Coronari

YOUR GUIDE TO ~ ROME

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CONTENTS

1.0 – WECOME

YOUR AUDIO GUIDE

YOUR PRINTED GUIDE

2.0 – MAP

3.0 – GETTING AROUND

4.0 – THE HIT LIST

MUSEUMS, ART GALLERIES, PALACES

5.0 – EATING, DRINKING & SHOPPING

6.0 – USEFUL WEBSITES

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1.0 – WELCOME

Your audio guide:

Thanks very much for choosing this mp3cityguides guide to Romes. If you've already done any of our other walks, you'll know how it works but if not, I'll tell you now. As you've probably already noticed, each of these sections of the walk that you've downloaded on to your machine has a name - this first one is the ‘The Spanish Steps’ in our guide to Rome’s centre or ‘St Peters’ in our guide to the Vatican, the Via Giulia and Trastevere. Just consider each of these walks as individual tracks on an 'album' which is the complete tour of Rome. You'll hear directions about where to go next at the end of each section but the route and the stopping points are also marked on your maps which are on pages four and five of this Printed Guide. When you get to a stopping point find somewhere to stand or sit which is out of the way of people and traffic and then play the relevant section of the walk. The map has been especially produced to help you find your way while you're listening to the audio guide which means that it's not drawn exactly to scale. Top tip: when you print out this Printed Guide or, at least, the map, set your printer to high quality or fine print so that the map is as clear as possible and easy to read. Please take care when you're using the audio guide: Rome is a relatively safe city but do keep an eye out for pick pockets and watch out when you're crossing the road. When we arrive at a monument, church or a museum, after I've described it you might want to go in or you might want to buy a ticket for later if it looks crowded. Or you might just want to carry on and come back and visit it afterwards now that you know where it is. Top tip: Play a few sections of the tour on your mp3 player or iPod before you go just to check that they've downloaded OK.

Your printed guide:

This printed guide complements your audio guide. We know that exploring a city can take more than one visit - and possibly even a life time so we've pared our guide down to what we think are the essential things to see and do. They're included in section four, the Hit List. We've done our best to get it right and, because we're an Internet based guide rather than a conventional guidebook, we can update our information very quickly. That said, all kinds of places inevitably change their opening times at short notice so please accept our apologies if you arrive somewhere and, despite what we've said, you find it's shut. As with your Audio Guide, if you find that a museum, gallery, church, bar or restaurant is not as we've described it then please do let us know by contacting us at [email protected]

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2.0 – MAP – Spanish Steps and Rome Centre

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2.0 – MAP – Vatican, Via Giulia and Trastevere

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3.0 – GETTING AROUND

From Fiumicino (FCO) airport:

There are trains every 30 minutes to Rome's main Termini station from 6.37am until 11.37pm. Express trains take about 30 minutes and cost €9.50 for a single ticket. Other services stop at Trastevere amongst other places. When you get to Termini station you'll have quite a walk to the front. But you need to take the taxis from here as the taxi the rank half way down works on a different system and can be very expensive.

From Ciampino (CIA) airport:

If you're travelling by easyjet take the Terravision airport bus which is an easyJet partner. It leaves about every 30 minutes from outside the terminal building and takes about 40 minutes. It stops outside the Termini station. You can book your bus ticket online at www.easyjet.co.uk Buses go regularly from Ciampino to Anagnina metro station on Line A and take about 30 minutes from there it's about another 20 minutes into town. The easiest option, though, is a taxi which takes about 20 to 30 minutes costs about €40 - 50. For more information visit: www.cotralspa.it and www.sitbusshuttle.it

Getting around:

Bus, tram and Underground: Tickets are valid on the bus, tram and underground system. The underground isn't very useful as it really serves the suburbs but buses and trams are pretty reliable. Tickets for all three are sold at tabacchi, news stands, cafés, hotels, vending machines at bus terminals and metro stations. Stamp your ticket in the machine when you get on a bus or tram or at the barrier for trains. There are various different kinds of ticket: BIT (Integrated Single Ticket) - Valid 75 minutes from being stamped for buses and only one trip on metro and urban trains. Cost €1.00 BIG (Integrated Daily Ticket) - Valid till midnight on the day of validation for an unlimited number of journeys on buses, metro and urban trains. Cost €4.00 BTI (Integrated Tourist Ticket) - Valid for three days for an unlimited number of journeys on buses, metro and urban trains. Cost €11.00 CIS (Integrated Weekly Pass) - Valid seven days, for an unlimited number of journeys on buses, metro and urban trains. Cost €16.00 BIRG (Daily Regional Integrated Ticket) - Valid till midnight on the day its stamped for an unlimited number of journeys on buses and metro in Rome, but

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also on urban and regional trains. Cost varies between €2.50 and €10.50 according to the number of areas you cross. For further information visit www.atac.roma.it The best routes for tourists are: Number 64: Termini station - Piazza Venezia - St Peters Number 110 (normally open top): Termini station - Quirinale - Colosseum - Piazza Venezia - Piazza Navona - St Peters - Augustus' Mausoleum - Trevi Fountain.

Taxis: They're reasonably cheap and plentiful. It's easiest to get them at ranks around the city centre. There is one at the Piazza Venezia.

5.0 THE HIT LIST Please note that opening times can change at very short notice. EU citizens aged under 18 and over 65 usually get in free and those aged between 18 and 25 get a reduction.

4.0 – THE HIT LIST

Getting to know Rome – or any big city – can take a lifetime but if you’ve only got a weekend then here is what we recommend you see in descending order of priority.

* = covered on our Spanish Steps and Central Rome audio guide † = covered on our Vatican, Via Giulia and Trastevere audio guide

† Vatican Museums One of the largest and most beautiful art galleries in the world. Almost overwhelming, guided tours are probably the best way to pace your visit. The Sistine Chapel are the Raphael Rooms are the highlights but there are works by Renaissance artists as well as Roman and Greek antiquities. For more information visit the tourist office in St Peter's Square, to the left as you look at St Peter's Basilica. Open: times vary greatly and can change without notice but normally the museums are open Monday to Saturday 8.45am - 3.20pm. Closed Sunday except the last Sunday of the month when they open 8.45am - 12.20pm and free. 1 Viale Vaticano mv.vatican.va/3_EN/pages/MV_Home.html

Capitoline Museums The oldest art collection in the world with pieces by Titian, Bellini and Caravaggio amongst others. Open: Tuesday to Sunday 9am - 8pm. 1 Piazza del Campidoglio www.museicapitolini.org

Galleria Borghese Set in the beautiful grounds of the Villa Borghese, this recently restored gallery has a huge collection of paintings and sculptures and is a must see. Sculptures by Bernini and paintings by Caravaggio and Titian amongst others are

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the highlights. It gets very busy especially during August and so booking by phone or online is advisable. See website below. Open: Tuesday to Saturday 9am - 7pm and occasionally Mondays during the summer. Piazzale del Museo Borghese www.galleriaborghese.it

Palazzo Barberini Grand former home of the Barberini family. There are galleries with works by Titian, Tintoretto and Canaletto amongst others and a fine painting of Henry VIII by Hans Holbein. Currently some areas are undergoing restoration. Open: Tuesday to Sunday 8.30am - 7.30pm 18 Via Barberini www.galleriaborghese.it/barberini

* Galleria Doria Pamphilj The former home of the great Pamphilj family. There are private apartments filled with works by Titian, Bernini and Velasquez amongst others. Open: Friday to Wednesday 10am - 5pm 2 Piazza de Collegio Romano www.doriapamphilj.it

† Galleria Spada Elegant palace with some works by Titian and Gentileschi and an interesting painting with a clever false perspective by Borromini. Open: Tuesday to Sunday 8.30am - 7.30pm Via Capo di Ferro

Palazzo Massimo Elegant, spacious recently refurbished museum which is dedicated to Roman and Greek antiquities. The sculptures are beautiful and the Roman mosaics are particularly striking and amazingly well preserved. Open: Thursday to Saturday, 9am - 10pm and 9am to 8pm Sunday. 1 Largo di Villa Peretti

* Palazzo Venezia Good collection of religious paintings from Tuscany and around Rome plus changing exhibitions. Linger on the balcony above the for a view of the gardens which are also occasionally open by appointment. Open: Tuesday to Sunday 8.30am - 7.30pm 118 Via del Plebiscito

Galleria Colonna Small but richly decorated gallery which has a wonderful mirrored hall with chandeliers. There are also works by Veronese and Tintoretto as well as others. Open: Saturday 9am - 1pm Closed August. 17 Via della Pilotta www.galleriacolonna.it

Galleria Nazionale d'Arte Moderna Contains works by Van Gogh, Cezanne and Modigliani, Roman inspired foreign artists such Cy Twombley as well work by the Italian Futurist school of the 1930s. Open: Tuesday to Sunday 8.30am - 7.30pm

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131 Viale delle Belle Arti - near the Villa Borghese

Museo di Risorgimento Paintings, sculptures and historical maps relating to the story of Italian unification. Open: Daily 9.30- 6pm Vittoriano, Piazza Venezia

Museo di Roma Paintings and sculpture relating to the history of Rome. Open: Tuesday to Sunday 9am -7pm 10 Via di San Pantaleo, near the Piazza Navona

Roman ruins

The Roma Archeologica Card (€20, valid seven days) includes entrance to the sites including the Colosseum, the Palatine, the Baths of Caracalla, the tomb of Cecilia Metella and the Villa of the Quintili. Buy it from ticket counters at any of these sites (except for the Tomb of Cecilia Metella and the Villa Quintili) or the Rome Tourist Office (5 Via Parigi). If you're in Rome during the summer months try and get the Roman Forum or the Palatine early to avoid the midday sun - and the crowds.

* Pantheon Complete Roman temple which is now a church. Open: Monday to Saturday 8.30am - 7.30pm and Sunday 9pm - 6pm. Holidays: 9am - 1pm. Piazza della Rotonda

Colosseum Rome's grandest circus, still impressive and sinister. Open: daily 9am to one hour before sunset. Piazza del Colosseo

The Roman Forums The heart of ancient Rome with ruins of temples, public buildings and houses. Open: daily 9am to one hour before sunset. Via dei Fori Imperiali

The Palatine Hill The remains of homes belonging the Roman emperors and other nobles are set out in elegant parks and gardens. Open: daily 9am to one hour before sunset. 30 Via di San Gregorio or 53 Piazza Santa Maria Nova

Baths of Diocletian Beautifully renovated Roman baths Open: Tuesday to Saturday 9am - 7.45pm 78 Viale E de Nicola

Baths of Caracalla Another set of beautiful Roma baths. Open: daily 9am to one hour before sunset. 52 Via delle Terme di Caracalla

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Tombs of Cecilia Metella Beautiful funeral monument. Open: daily 9am to one hour before sunset. 161 Via Appia Antica

Villa of the Quintili Beautiful, well preserved villa built by two brothers from a noble Roman family. Open: Tuesday to Sunday 9am to one hour before sunset. 1092 Via Appia Nuova

Opening times vary and change regularly but most churches in Rome are open from the early morning until noon or 1pm and then from about 4pm until 6pm or 7pm. Please remember to show respect.

St Peters The Vatican's great basilica. St Peter's Square

Pantheon (see above)

Santa Maria Maggiore Within the eighteenth century exterior is a stunning Byzantine interior with beautiful mosaics. Piazza Santa Maria Maggiore

Santa Maria in Trastevere See the beautiful mosaic ceiling in this Byzantine church. Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere

Santa Maria Sopra Minerva Rome's only Gothic Church, built on the ruins of a Roman temple has beautiful frescoes and an intricately decorated interior. Just behind the Pantheon. Piazza da Minerva

Il Gesu A perfect example of ornate baroque architecture. Piazza del Gesu

San Marco A small but ancient church which offers some peace near the noise of the Vittoriano monument. Piazza san Marco (very near Piazza Venezia)

San Clemente A 13th century church with a baroque facade, built on top of an early Christian church is, in turn, built on Roman ruins - the history of Rome all on one fascinating site. Piazza San Clemente, (just south east of the Colosseum)

5.0 – EATING, DRINKING & SHOPPING

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Cafés: Cafés are normally open daily from early in the morning until late in the evening.

Centro Storico/Historic Centre

Tazza d'Oro Two minutes from the Pantheon you'll find some of the best coffee in Rome. 84-86 Via degli Orfani

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED Caffe Sant' Eustachio Excellent coffee plus cakes and pastries are served in this small, unassuming café. Coffee and coffee flavoured chocolates are available to buy in signature yellow packaging. 82 Piazza Sant' Eustachio

Giolitti Well known by tourists but still great for ice cream. 40 Via Uffici del Vicario

Babington's Tea Rooms Legendary English tea shop. 23 Piazza di Spagna

Caffe Leonardo Very near the Spanish steps this big cafe and restaurants does good pizzas, pasta and salads at very reasonable prices. 21a Piazza Mignanelli

Tre Scalini Given its location it is usually full of tourists rather than locals but the coffee is good, the view lovely and ice cream divine. Their chocolate tartufo is a speciality to eat in or take away. 30 Piazza Navona

Vatican

Gran Caffe Esperia Large, smart cafe, bar and gelateria on the bank of the Tiber about ten minutes walk from the Castel Sant’ Angelo - great place to escape the crowds. 1 Lungotevere dei Mellini (there is another branch north of St Peter's at 21-29 Via Sabotino)

Trastevere

Ombre Rosse Five minutes away from the touristy Piazza Santa Maria in Trastevere and much more authentic and relaxed because of it. 12 Piazza Sant' Egidio www.mp3cityguides.com 11

Restaurants: Prices: Guide is for one person for three courses plus half a bottle of wine. Expensive: €30 (£25) and above. Moderate: €20-€30 (£15-£25). Budget: up to €20 (£15).

Centro Storico/Historic Centre

Abruzzo Very traditional Roman restaurant, largely unknown by tourists despite its central location. Classic Italian dishes served by classic Italian waiters. Open: Lunch and dinner Sunday to Friday. Price: Moderate. 1 Via del Vaccaro T: + 39 06 679 3897

Alfredo Legendary Roman restaurant where fettucine is the speciality. Every celeb you can imagine has eaten here and it has a certain retro elegance with its art deco decor. Open: Lunch and dinner daily. Price: Moderate/Expensive. 30 Piazza Augusto Imperatore T: + 09 06 687 8734 www.alfredos.com

Assaggi Small, modern restaurant with a great buffet and its own foodie bookshop. Open: Monday to Saturday lunch and dinner. Price: Budget/Moderate. 28 Via dei Lucchesi www.assaggidautore.com

Il Convivio Regularly changing menu of classic Roman dishes cooked with care and attention in elegant dining rooms. Open: Lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday and Monday lunch only. Price: Expensive. 31 Vicolo dei Soldati T: + 39 06 686 9432

Alle Grotte Unpretentious little restaurant serving well cooked Roman specialities and good antipasti. Open: Lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday. Price: Moderate. 27 Via delle Grotte T: + 39 06 686 4293

Al Pompieri Traditional Roman entrance. Being near the old Jewish Ghetto, it serves Jewish specialities alongside traditional Italian cooking. Open: Lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday. Price: Moderate. 38 Via Santa Maria dei Calderari T: + 39 06 686 8377

Buca di Ripetta Popular, cosy restaurant serving traditional, well cooked Italian favourites. Open: Lunch and dinner daily. Price: Budget/Moderate. 36 Via dei Ripetta T: + 39 06 321 9391

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Da Giggetto Roman cooking with a traditional Jewish flavour. Open: Lunch and dinner daily. Price: Moderate. 21 Via del Portico d’Ottavia. T: + 39 06 686 1105 www.giggetto.it

Le Fric Cosy subterranean restaurant with friendly staff serving a traditional Italian menu, all of which is well prepared. Open: Lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday. Price: Moderate/Expensive. 23 Via San Nicola da Tolentino T: + 39 06 481 4845

Hamasei This Japanese restaurant is the perfect antidote to all that Italian carbohydrate. Sit at the bar and watch the sushi chefs at work. Open: Lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday. Price: Moderate/Expensive. 35-36 Via delle Mercede T: + 39 06 679 2134

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED Osteria dell'Ingegno "The restaurant of intelligence" might sound snooty but this eatery in a pretty square opposite Hadrian's temple takes Italian staples and gives them an interesting twist. Ravioli with borage and ricotta and duck with a light sweet and sour sauce are particularly recommended. Open: Lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday. Price: Moderate. 45 Piazza di Petra T: + 39 06 678 0662

Otello alla Concordia Set in a beautiful courtyard this well established eatery is said to be a favourite of Fellini. Open: Monday to Saturday lunch and dinner. Price: Moderate. 81 Via della Croce. T: + 39 06 679 1178 www.otello-alla-concordia.com

Ristorante di Rienzo This popular restaurant does the usual Roman fare well but the real selling point is that it offers great views of the Pantheon. 8-9 Piazza del Pantheon www.ristorantedirienzo.com

Trastevere

Antico Arco A real gastronomic treat for a special occasion. Open: Dinner Monday to Saturday. Price: Expensive. 7 Piazzale Aurelio T: + 39 06 581 5274

Il Cortile Slightly off the beaten track (it's towards the western edge of Trastevere away from the city centre) this restaurant is well worth the detour. Relaxed friendly restaurants with the Roman staples such as spaghetti bolognese and roast veal

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chop with garlic and rosemary. Open: Lunch: Tuesday to Sunday. Dinner: Tuesday to Saturday. 25 Via Cortile T: + 39 06 580 3433

Da Meo Patacca One of the oldest restaurants in Rome. Traditional hearty food, large and full of atmosphere with friendly relaxed service. Open Dinner daily until 2am. Price: Moderate. 30 Piazza dei Mercanti T: + 09 06 581 6198

Glass The dramatic lighting and ultra modern interior compliment the food here which offers a new and lighter take on many Italian favourites. Open: lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday. Price: Moderate/Expensive. 58 Vicolo del Cinque T: + 39 06 5833 5903

Panificio La Renella Take away pizza bar. You might have to queue but it's worth the wait. 15 Via del Moro

India House If you're desperate for a curry then this cosy little Indian restaurant two minutes from the Piazza Santa Cecilia is the place to head to. Open: Lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday. Price: Budget/Moderate. 8 Via di Santa Cecilia T: + 39 06 581 8508

Quirinale

Arancia Blu Imaginative vegetarian food well cooked - unusual in city with such a meaty cuisine. Open: dinner daily. Price Moderate/Expensive. 57 Via dei Latini. T: + 39 06 445 4105

Caffe Strega Smart restaurant with a nice section on the pavement of this elegant winding street. Ideally placed between the Villa Borghese and the Palazzo Barberini. Well prepared Italian menu. Open: lunch an dinner daily. Price: Moderate. 172 Via Vittorio Veneto T: + 39 06 4740017

Colline Emiliane Food from the gastronomically celebrated Emilia Romagna region of Italy is served in friendly surroundings. Open: Lunch and dinner Saturday to Thursday. Price: Moderate 22 Via degli Avignonesi T: + 39 06 481 7538

Da Sergio Simple but good quality cooking in bustling, family run restaurant. Open: Lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday. Price: Moderate 27 Vicolo delle Grotte T: + 39 06 686 4293

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Da Tullio Some of the best steak in Rome - especially the Tuscan Bistecca alla Fiorentina - all of which is grilled over an open fire. Very popular at dinner. Open: Lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday. Price: Moderate/Expensive. 26 Via San Nicola da Tolentino T: + 39 06 474 5560

Pommidoro Bustling family run restaurant serving hearty Roman food. Unusually for this part of town there is a terrace. Open: Lunch and dinner Monday to Saturday. Price: Moderate 44 Piazza dei Sanniti T: + 39 06 445 2692

ES Hotel There are two restaurants alongside an elegant swimming pool on the roof of this stunning designer hotel. Food in both is modern Mediterranean with an Italian influence. Termini station is five minutes away so it's great for lunch or dinner before you get back on the train to Fiumicino airport. Zest - breakfast, lunch and snacks. Open: Daily 10am - 1.30am Price: Moderate/Expensive. Sette - imaginative modern cuisine expertly executed. Open: Daily lunch and dinner. Price: Expensive. 171 Via Filippo Turati T: + 39 06 444 841

Vatican

Les Etoiles Very smart roof top restaurant with great views of Rome and wonderful food. Open: Lunch and dinner daily. Price: Expensive. 1 Via Bastioni T: + 39 06 687 3233

Dal Toscano Big, bustling and sometimes rather noisy restaurant where Florentine steaks are the speciality but pastas and fish are also good. Open: Lunch and dinner Tuesday to Saturday. Price: Budget/Moderate. 58 Via Germanico T: + 39 06 3972 5717

Bars and Wine bars (A wine bar is an 'enoteca' in Italian and many serve good, substantial food as well)

Centro Storico/Historic Centre

Hotel de Russie Moments from the Spanish Steps, this luxury hotel has beautiful, tranquil terraced gardens which are wonderful for a drink, especially during the spring and summer. 9 Via del Babuino T: + 39 06 32 8881

Cul de Sac vast selection of wines in a small friendly bar. Grab a table as soon as you can. 73 Piazza Pasquino (near Piazza Navona) T: + 39 06 6880 1094

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Casa Bleve Enoteca with wines from all over Italy and stunning buffet tucked away between the Pantheon and the Piazza Navona. Let the matriarch, Tina, help you with decisions on food and wine. Sublime. Open: Lunch and Dinner Monday to Saturday. Price: Moderate. 48-49 Via de Teatro Valle T: + 39 06 686 5970

Enoteca Corsi Tables are crammed into the little wine shop where you’ll find a meaty Roman menu on offer. Open: lunchtime only Monday to Saturday. Price: Moderate/Budget. 87-88 Via del Gesu. T: + 39 06 679 0821 www.enotecacorsi.com

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED ‘Gusto Spacious modern restaurant and wine bar which does a great buffet at lunch time. Open: Lunch and Dinner daily. 28 Piazza Augusto Imperatore. T: +39 06 6813 4221 23 Via della Frezza. T: + 39 06 322 6273 rHome Huge, spacious bar and restaurant with terrace and outdoor seating in this elegant square just far enough away from the hustle of the Via del Corso. Open: Lunch and dinner Tuesday to Sunday. Price: Moderate. 46 Piazza Augusto Imperatore T: +39 06 6830 1430

Trastevere

Glass (see Restaurants)

Il Cantiniere di Santa Dorotea Relaxed, unpretentious bar where the emphasis on the wine. Nearly 40 are available by the glass. Good service and delicious food including toasted cheese flat bread sandwiches. Closed Tuesday. 9 Via di Santa Dorotea T: + 39 06 581 9025

Cantina Paradiso Cool, relaxed wine bar at the quiet end of this long street. 73 Via San Francesco a Ripa T: + 39 06 589 9799

Quirinale

Enoteca Cavour 313 - more of a wine bar than a cafe but very traditional with good selection of local wines, crostini and other snacks. 313 Via Cavour T: + 39 06 678 5496

ES Hotel (see Restaurants)

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Most shops are open from morning to early evening Monday to Saturday but are often closed on Monday morning.

Shopping Streets:

Via dei Condotti All the smartest names Via del Corso Many of the big chains plus some fun and affordable independents Via dei Giubbonari More affordable independent clothes shops Piazza San Cosimato, Trastevere Great food market daily from 7am until about 2pm Porta Portense, Trastevere Flea market on Sunday from about 8am until about 2pm

Womenswear

Arsenale Elegant cuts rich fabrics make Patrizia Pieroni’s one off shop a favourite amongst many chic Roman women. 64 Via del Governno Vecchio.

Degli Effeti This well established boutique offers groovy pieces from smaller designers. See men’s shop below. 79 and 93 Piazza Capranica

Le Gallinelle A mother and daughter team create striking dresses, skirts and jackets out of vintage fabrics. 76 Via del Boschetto

TAD You’ll find a thoughtful and imaginative edit of smart womenswear in this extremely glamorous boutique that also includes homewares, a café and a hairdresser. 155A Via del Babuino (near Piazza del Popolo)

Menswear

Delgi Effeti Casual and smarter clothes from interesting but less well known designers. See women’s shop above. 75 Piazza Capranica

Schostal The place to find elegant, traditional Italian menswear. 158 Via del Corso

Womenswear and menswear

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40 Gradi Oddly located just above the Castel Sant Angelo this fun but slightly chaotic store has a huge range of street fashion labels including Maharishi and adidas. 1 Via Virgilio

Davide Cenci Popular for decades amongst smart Romans this well known Italian designer has chic, tailored pieces for men and women. 1-7 Via Campo Marzio

Degli Effetti Cutting edge fashion from Comme des Garcons and Yohi Yamamoto amongst others. 79 (men) and 93 (women) Piazza Capranica

Il Discount dell'Alta Moda As the name suggests, you'll find fashion labels including Armani and Valentino at discounted prices. For men and women. 61a Via di Gesu e Maria

Il Discount Delle Firme A great place to find designer labels at half price or even less. 27 Via dei Serviti

Accessories/other things

Alinari Founded in 1852 Fratelli Alinari claim to be the oldest photographic library in the world and their collection is remarkable. Worth a visit just to browse. 16a Via Alibert

Indoroman Textiles and home wares in bright colours and elegant designs, both of which are heavily influenced by India. 36 Via Gregoriana

The Cartoleria Pantheon Beautiful paper, notebooks address books, photograph albums plus inks and pens. 15 Via della Rotonda and 41 Via della Maddalena

Casali A huge collection of historic prints and pictures. 81a Piazza Rontonda and 115 Via dei Coronari

Claudio Sano Striking handbags, suit cases and wallets in beautiful Tuscan leather. 67a Largo degli Osci

L'Olfattorio - Bar a Parfums A vast collection of fragrances and perfumes from around the world are displayed in this elegant shop. Closed all day Monday. 34 Via di Ripetta

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Food

Castroni Very traditional deli with an ever changing array of cheeses, salamis, pastas and sauces from around Italy plus some American favourites for homesick ex-pats. 196 Via Cola di Rienzo

Roscioli Salumeria Prosciutto, truffles and over 100 different salamis and 400 different cheeses. 21 via Giubbonari

Moriondo & Gariglio Wonderful chocolates and sweets are beautifully presented in this Rome institution. 221-22 Via del Pie de Marmo

Volpetti Luxurious deli with every kind of cheese, salami, cake and preserve. It's worth buying something just for the wrapping. Closed lunchtimes and Tuesday afternoons. 47 Via Marmorata

Bars and Clubs: (All in the Centro Storico/Historic Centre)

The Gallery Bar and club playing garage plus old favourites from the 70s and 80s. Closed Mondays. 12 Via della Maddalena

Modo Uber cool bar and music venue. Open: daily. 3 Vicolo del Fico T: + 39 06 686 7452

Supperclub - So cool there is no sign in the doorway, this vast club and lounge bar is as slick and glamorous as they come with stunning bars and lounge area. It also a restaurant with dramatic looking tastes on familiar dishes. A favourite of Bruce Willis - is that good or bad? Open: daily. 14 Via dei' Nari T: + 39 06 6880 7207

5.0 – USEFUL WEBSITES www.rome.info - the official tourist information site www.romefile.com - useful information on events and places to stay