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The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

ALAN J FLETCHER

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Although the author and publisher have made every effort to en- sure the accuracy and completeness of information contained in this book, we assume no liability for errors, inaccuracies, omis- sions, or any inconsistency herein. Any slights of peoples, places or organizations are purely unintentional. This publication is de- signed to provide accurate, timely and authoritative information about the subject matter covered. It is sold with the understanding that the publisher is not engaged in rendering professional serv- ices. If professional advise or expert assistance is required, those services should be sought.

The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Copyright © 2011 Alan J. Fletcher Website: Http://www.AbcCarpets.com

Published by AJ Books Vancouver WA 98684 E-mail: [email protected]

Sorona® is a registered trademark or trademark of E. I. du Pont de Nemours and Company.

ISBN 0-9717802-7-7

All Rights Reserved No part of this publication may be reproduced or distributed in any form or by any means, or stored in a data base or retrieval system, without the prior written permission of the owner.

4 Contents

THE CARPET INDUSTRY 13 Buying “seconds” Defective carpet

RETAILER ADVERTISING 16

The price of free One-price retailers

SELECTING THE RIGHT CARPET FOR YOUR NEEDS AND LIFESTYLE 20 Carpet styles Plush, textured, Frieze, Berber Commercial level loop Rubber backed

CARPET FIBERS 23 Nylon Olefin Polyester Sorona® Wool

SHOPPING FOR CARPET 25 Carpet Warranties 26 What grade of carpet to select 27 What makes one carpet better than another?

HOW CARPET IS INSTALLED 30 Glue down commercial carpet 31 How to find a good independent carpet installer 32

9 questions you must ask every carpet installer 33

5 Contents

Carpet installation fees 34

How to save money on pad 35

Want to buy your pad wholesale? 37

Types of carpet padding 38

What Padding Should I Use? 40

Frequently Asked Questions

What is anti static? What is anti stain? 41

Should I use the carpet installers that work for the retail carpet store? 41

What should I do if believe that my carpet is defective or installed poorly or improperly? 42

How do I know if my carpet has been installed correctly? 43

How to Find a Qualified Installer? 46

How do I know if I’m getting a good price? 49

How do I know how much carpet I need? 51

How to keep from being ripped off or overcharged? 53

Can consumers effectively determine the durability of flooring materials? 54

6 Contents

Should I rely on the advice of salespeople? 54

Beware of retailer sales gimmicks 55

How to determine flooring value and performance 57

How do I determine the durability of a carpet? 59

Styles, colors, prices and fatigue 60

Why do some carpets shed and fuzz? 62 Staple fibers verses Continuous filament fibers

Choosing the Right Carpet Padding 63 Retailer In-home Measuring 64

How to Measure Your Rooms 65

Selecting a Carpet Style within your Budget 66

The Room Yardage Table 67

How to measure your stairs 68

Stair Yardage Table 69

FORM 1 Staircase Yardage Totals 69

Your Room Measurements 70

FORM 2 Your Room Measurements 71

Selecting The Right Carpet For You 75

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How long do you want your carpet to last? 76 3 to 5 years? 75 5 to 7 years? 76 7 to 10 years? 76 10 to 15 years? 77 15 years or more 78

FORM 3 How Much Carpet You Need 79

Carpet installation fees and charges 82

Difficult or Time Consuming Carpet Installations 82

Common Extra installation fees and charges 83

FORM 4 Preliminary Carpet Selections 85

Special Articles: 1. Do you have small children and/or pets? 93 2. Considering selecting a Berber carpet? 93

Caring for Your Carpet 94

My advice in a nutshell 95

What Features Are You Looking For in a Carpet? 96

Carpet Glossary 108

FORM 5 Your Final Carpet Selections 110

Common Carpet Questions & Answers 112 Contractor State License Requirements 130 Index 134

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9 Welcome! You Have Made a Very Wise Choice!

Thank you for ordering my Complete Carpet Buying Guide ebook. It contains valuable information you need to make wise and informed car- pet choices, and so much more! I can save you hundreds or more!

I decided to write this guide after witnessing so many carpet scams and deceptions that exist in the carpet marketplace today. It’s not fair that any homeowner should waste their hard-earned money on a poorly made carpet that doesn’t last very long. There are lots of carpet scams!

The main problem consumers face is trying to get accurate and com- plete carpet information. It starts with carpet manufacturers who allow big retailers to use private labels, to remove key carpet specifications from the labels and change the style and color names to prevent con- sumers from comparison shopping. That is just plain WRONG!

Not only that, but carpet manufacturers also word their limited warran- ties in such a way to make it nearly impossible to prove a valid war- ranty claim. In fact, you must follow their warranty requirements to the letter or the warranty will be void. For example, you must be able to produce receipts for all the required carpet cleanings, or your warranty will be void. There are many warranty requirements you should know.

Unscrupulous carpet retailers often compound the problem by not tell- ing consumers the whole truth about carpet characteristics. They may sell you carpet and not care whether it is a good choice for you or not. These retailers are only concerned about profits and I expose them.

For example, inexpensive looped Berber carpets are not a good choice for homes with young children or pets because they snag easily and are difficult to repair. I get plenty of emails from upset homeowners with ruined carpet because a salesperson sold them a looped Berber carpet and never bothered to mention the common snagging problem.

Choosing the correct padding and getting qualified installation are two critical areas where you must get it right or you can lose as much as half of your carpet’s life-span. Finding a qualified installer is not easy these days and I can certainly help you find a qualified installer. There are a lot of horrible installers out there who will ruin your carpet and cost you hundreds in repairs unless you know what to look out for..

10 The purpose of this book is to:

∗ Provide you with essential information to make wise and informed decisions in selecting carpet & padding. ∗ Educate you in ways to avoid common carpet scams. ∗ Help you find qualified professi onal carpet installation at a fair and competitive price. ∗ Show you how to care for your new carpet, and how to keep your new carpet warranty in force. ∗ Advise you what to do if you have a carpet problem or concern.

∗ Make shopping for carpet a fun and enjoyable experience. ∗ How to make your new carpet last years longer!

To help you to save money on your next and subsequent carpet purchases, you will need to unde rstand some important things about the carpet industry and all about carpet. For instance, You need a basic understanding about how carpet is made and learn what fibers are used to make them. It is also imperative that you use the correct type of padding and know how much it should cost. Most importantly you must be able to select the type of carpet is best for your specific situation and understand why. Many other important facts that you need to know are detailed in this book. You may need to make phone calls, view carpet at several carpet stores to shop for the carpet quality, style and color that you want, and search for the best and most reasonable carpet installation services. After reading this book, you should be able to determine what type of carpet and pad will meet your needs and lifestyle. You also should understand how to buy carpet and pad at a reasonable price, and how to find a reputable carpet installer that can install your car- pet reasonably and properly. It just doesn’t get any better than that. I will repeat key issues many times throughout this book for the benefit of those who like to skim through or just read the chapters that interest them. I suggest you re ad the entire book to take advan- tage of all my carpet knowledge, experience and insight to save time, money and avoid headaches.

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12 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide The Carpet Industry

Consumers are never allowed to buy carpet directly from a Carpet Manufacturer so don’t be fooled by banners or advertisements that say “wholesale to the public”. The manufacturer will only sell carpet to a retail store who has a showroom open to the public. This is a strict policy that all carpet manufacturers adhere to.

“If the price sounds too good to be true, then be wary!”

Co-ops are large carpet distributors that buy carpet from manufacturers and resell it to retailers. Small retailers can save a lot on shipping costs buying from a distributor rather than the carpet manufacturer. Volume discounts are offered to carpet retailers who order large quantities of the same carpet.

Shipping costs are lower for retailers who are located closer to the car- pet distributor. This often translates into lower prices for consumers who have the ability to buy from carpet retailers located closest to Dalton, Georgia. Even so, you need to know exactly what you are buy- ing. Co-ops are a smart way for retailers to reduce shipping costs.

Carpet Brokers. There are plenty of so-called “wholesale” carpet out- lets advertising in the media and on the internet. These companies buy closeout, discontinues, defective or second-grade carpets in large quan- tities from carpet manufacturers. They often re-label the carpet with their own brand name before they sell it to consumers.

Most are located in Georgia and have a large warehouse, a sales team and a toll free number. A salesperson will answer all your questions and is eager to mail you free carpet samples. These carpet brokers claim to offer wholesale prices to the public but consumers need to be very cautious. If you buy carpet from them and you end up with a car- pet that is defective or damaged in some way, it might be very difficult for you to submit a claim and get a quick remedy.

It is for these reasons and many more that I strongly recommend you buy carpet from a local, family-owned carpet dealer near you. They will go the extra mile to earn your business and have a vested interest in your community. They survive and thrive by providing good service and having satisfied customers.

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Buying Carpet “Seconds”

If you walk into a retail carpet store and see dozens of rolls of carpet for sale, some or all of those rolls of carpet might be defec- tive. It is a common practice to for carpet retailers to buy second- grade carpet. Carpet manufacturers always have hundreds if not thousands of defective rolls of carpet available for sale at all times. Dealers who buy “seconds” may not tell you what the de- fect is. They may not know what the defect is. After the carpet manufacturer makes a roll of carpet it is sent to quality control. There, it is inspected by hand and “walked on” where inspectors walk along the carpet looking for defects or flaws. Once it has met their quality control standards it is then shipped to the retailer. If the carpet does not pass quality control, it is sold as “seconds” to carpet retailers who may buy it at a sig- nificant discount. If you buy carpet “seconds“, it does have a de- fect of some kind. It also may have more than one type of defect.

Are you buying defective carpet? Sometimes carpets are considered “seconds” because the color does not match the samples that are displayed in the retail stores. Sometimes the carpet has color fading problems from one end of the roll to the other or from side to side. Sometimes the carpet backing is just not made well enough to pass the quality tests. Retailers buy all types of “seconds” and may be selling them to you without telling you that they are seconds. You can get a good deal buying seconds from a retail dealer if you know exactly why they were determined to be seconds, but beware! First, the retailer may not know exactly what is wrong with the carpet, and even if they do, they may not want to tell you, and second, you might not find out until it’s too late. Some- times only after the carpet is installed will you be able to see the color variances, or perhaps other problems may show up like missing tufts or the carpet backing is delaminating. The carpet mill doesn’t have to tell the retailer what makes a carpet deemed a

14 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide second and the retailer doesn’t have to tell you. Because carpet is made by machines, and machines some- times make mistakes, there is always a possibility that any carpet may have defects, but once the carpet mill sells a carpet labeled as “seconds” the mill will not warranty the carpet. For example, If you buy “seconds from a carpet retailer, and you find unaccept- able defects in the carpet after it has been installed in your home, your only recourse may only be from the retail carpet store. If you buy “first-grade” carpet selected and ordered directly from a manufacturers carpet sample from a carpet dealer, (carpet sam- ples are small “sample” pieces of carpet on display at a retail store for you to choose and order from) then the carpet manufac- turer will almost always warranty the carpet against any defects.

My advice here is to be very careful when buying carpet “seconds” off the retail showroom floor. You should have them roll it out for you so you can inspect it, and be sure to get a written guarantee that will cover any defects, even after it has been installed, including reimburse- ment of any additional installation costs, and furniture moving costs.

Lets say that you search and search and you finally find a roll of “in stock” carpet at a local retailer that you really like, and you buy it and have it installed in your home. Two months later, you discover that the carpet is falling apart or perhaps has some other problem, all due to a manufacturing defect. So what do you do? You might first call the store that sold you the carpet. The retailer, after coming over to look at the defective carpet, might say that they’re very sorry but they offer no guarantees. They may tell you that they can only offer an “in-store” credit, and that you are re- sponsible to pay to have the next carpet installed. The retailer may claim that it was the carpet installer’s fault for not noticing the defect before he installed the carpet! In this case you may be forced to call the carpet installer and try to get him to accept re- sponsibility. If the retailer is fair and honest, they should offer to replace the carpet and have it again installed for you at not cost to you at all. One thing is certain, you will still have to select a different carpet for your home, you will have to move the furniture all out

15 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide again, and it will be a real pain for you to go through! All in all, if you can find a reputable dealer who is willing to stand behind their products, and treat you right before and after the sale, then buying “seconds” can save you a lot of money! Here is one more bit of advice: steer clear of carpet retailers who have stores lo- cated in a mall, or other similar high-rent locations. They tend to have much higher overhead and may need to mark up their car- pets significantly higher than many other stores. I can’t tell you exactly who you should buy from. Your best bet is to visit several different retailers, and choose the one that you discover will give you the best service, price, and guarantee. Shopping for carpet will require that you do your homework!

Retailer Advertising Because so much profit can be made by selling carpet, it’s no wonder that many retailers will do or say just about anything to get your business. The most powerful weapon they use to lure you in, is advertising. You need to know, however, that no matter what the ad in the newspaper says, or what the banner on the building reads, or what the sign in the window promises, your best way to get a good deal on carpet comes from knowledge. Knowledge about carpet fibers, knowledge of different styles of carpet, and knowledge about pad and so on. Don’t believe the signs that say... “Wholesale To the Public” or “Mill Direct Prices”. While these dealers do get their carpet di- rectly from the mill, what they pay is not what you will pay for that carpet. The fact is, most dealers markup their carpet 70% in order to maintain a 40% profit margin.

EXAMPLE: The retail store buys a roll of carpet from the mill and pays per- haps $10.00 per yard for it. They mark up the carpet at a rate of 70% of their cost. That’s $10.00 X 70% = $7.00, Added to the original cost of $10 equals $17.00 (10.00 +7.00 = $17.00)

In this example, selling just 100 yards of carpet would net re- tailer $700 profit, not to mention what they stand to make on the pad and labor charges. It is fair that a store makes a reasonable profit on the products they sell, but I know that too many consum-

16 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide ers are not getting a fair deal because retailers often overcharge. The Price of Free

“Free” is a word used a lot in carpet advertising today. “Free pad“, “free furniture moving“, “free installation” and on and on. There is always a catch to these offers. My advice is to stay away from carpet dealers that advertise in this way. You want to get a good price on a good product and one way or the other, the re- tailer that claims to offer something for nothing is not telling you everything. Almost always, when it’s all said and done, you will pay for the “free” things in the final cost, or else the “free” things aren’t worth having. The carpet retailer usually pays the carpet installer extra money per yard to move your furniture, and then charges you more for your carpet and/or pad. Most carpet installers dislike moving furniture regardless of the extra money. If they wanted to move furniture for a living they would work for a moving com- pany. If you need to have your furniture moved, you would be better off having friends or relatives help you move it, rather than pay the carpet store to do it. If that is not an option, you may be able to pay nearby neighbors, or pay that nice boy that lives nearby a few bucks to come over and help you, and it will be less damaging on your furniture and cheaper for you in the long run.

When retailers offer something for free...

Even though the advertisement reads “free furniture mov- ing”, know that a carpet installer will not move furniture for free. Someone will inevitably pay for it and you can be sure that it won’t be the store. That someone will be you! However they de- cide to do it, they will somehow hide the cost of the furniture moving charge, or whatever they are offering for free, somewhere in the final bill and pass it on to you. Offering something for free is the oldest trick in the book. For some reason people seem to fall for it again and again. There is no such thing as free. Do you see a sign in the window that offers something for free? Don’t go there!

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One-Price Retailers In order for you to get the best overall deal when you buy carpet, you need to get a fair price on each individual aspect of your needs. You need to get a fair price on the carpet. You need to get a fair price on the pad. You need to get a fair price on the installa- tion and so on...Many retailers have found that they can make more profit if they use the one price for the whole job scam. It makes it very simple for you, but it will cost you plenty! Typi- cally what they do is lure you in with a $99 installation or free pad ad, and then a salesman greets you at the door and proceeds to sell you the whole deal. Most home improvement stores now sell carpet and use one price for the whole job ploy. After you pick out a carpet you think that you want, usually because it feels good and you like the color, the salesperson will come to your home and measure your carpet needs for you. When he or she is through, they end up presenting to you just “one price” for every- thing. Believe me when I say, if you don’t know what you are being charged for each individual item, (the price of the carpet, the pad, the installation, the furniture moving, the stairs, the removal of the old carpet, etc.) then you are probably being overcharged. You wouldn’t pay $300 for a full cart of groceries without know- ing what was in there and exactly how much each item cost would you? The same is true with carpet and pad. Some types of carpet and pad is not worth very much while other types are worth more. Unless you know exactly what it is you are buying and about how much it is worth, how can you know if you are getting a fair price? That’s the biggest problem for most consumers, and that’s why you should never buy carpet from a one-price retailer.

Alan’s Preferred Carpet Dealer Directory On my free carpet information website at www.AbcCarpets. com, I have compiled my own special list of Preferred Carpet Dealers. I choose those who are family-owned and operated, offer

18 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide reasonable prices and provide very good service.

Here is a list of some individually priced materials and services that you need to be aware of:

♦ The price of the carpet for each square yard or square foot. (there are 9 square feet in 1 square yard).

♦ The price of the padding for each square yard or square foot.

♦ The cost for delivering your carpet to the job site.

♦ The price for removing your old carpet and padding and haul- ing away your old carpet and padding.

♦ The price of installing the carpet per yard.

♦ The cost of transition metal needed by the foot.

♦ The price for carpeting each of the stairs individually.

♦ The price for moving furniture by the hour or by the job.

Now if you are just given one price for the whole job, how would you ever know how much you are being charged for each individual item or service provided? Look out here! There are many ways for you to be overcharged if you do not know what to do. We will discuss the prices that are fair for all the individual items and you can determine exactly what you want to buy and exactly what you want to spend from there.

Now lets discuss styles and fibers of carpeting, since carpet will be the single most expensive item on the list. Most important is for you to choose the right carpet for your needs and lifestyle. Many factors go into making this decision. Don’t let a savvy salesperson tell you what you need to buy! You must decide that for yourself before you begin shopping for carpet. Don’t worry, I

19 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide will help guide you to make wise choices.

Selecting The Right Carpet – Common Carpet Styles

PLUSH This style of carpet is usually one solid color and has an even tuft height. You can find practically any color imaginable. It is the most popular style used in apartments and homes today. If made of nylon, this carpet will clean easily and wear well if cared for. Plush carpet styles will show footprints and vacuum marks. Stan- dard life span of basic grade plush carpet is about 5 years. Typical cost (26-30 oz. Face-weight) starts at about $6.50 per yard, al- though prices and life-span increase with higher yarn face- weights.

TEXTURED PLUSH This plush style carpet generally has more than one color of yarn and varying tuft heights, thus reducing footprint and vacuum marks. This style would be a good selection for your home. It is available in most colors. Life expectancy and cost is similar to plush styles.

FRIEZE This style of carpet has very tightly twisted tufts and wears very well. This style of carpet if cared for can last 20 years or more. It may be used in heavy traffic areas, provides reduced footprint and vacuum marks and is a wonderful and elegant selection for the home, but this carpet is generally too costly for rental properties.

SCULPTURED This type of carpet has two types of tufts used in its construction, one is looped and one is not, which gives this carpet a hi-low ap- pearance. The color usually varies in shade from light to dark and is rich in appearance. This would be a good selection for a rental unit because it hides dirt well. Prices begin around $6.00 for apartment-grade 26 to 30 ounce face-weight. Prices and life-span increase with higher face-weight yarns.

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BERBER This has become quite popular in recent years because of its ele- gant appearance. The tufts are looped and aligned in rows for a clean uniform look. When choosing this carpet be sure to select one with smaller loops to get the best wear-ability. Large looped Berbers tend to collapse quickly and look worn-out sooner. I don’t recommend this carpet in apartments or homes with small children or domestic pets as this carpet can snag and run easily and is difficult to repair. This carpet is usually made of Olefin fi- ber. Prices are fairly reasonable for most Berbers. Berber carpets can snag easily and are not a good choice for those with children or pets. Snags are difficult to fix and can be very expensive to re- pair.

SAXONY A cut-pile carpet texture of heat-set plied yarns in a relatively dense, erect configuration, with well defined individual tuft tips. Saxony are denser and have more erect tufts than shags. Their tip definition is more pronounced than in singles plush, which is an- other dense cut-pile carpet style. Saxony have generally displaced singles plush styles from the marketplace, and many retailers call their smoother finished Saxony “plush”.

COMMERCIAL CARPET STYLES

LEVEL LOOP AND CUT PILE STYLES Commercial carpets are generally used in offices and commercial applications where there is heavy traffic. There are two types I want to mention. Commercial Level loop has small loops and Commercial Cut Pile is a short napped plush type of carpet. Both are usually made of nylon or olefin. Recent advancements in ole- fin fibers have allowed for a carpet with brighter colors and more durability than previously available. Commercial carpet is usually glued directly to the floor although it can be installed over 1/4” high-density (6 to 8 pound) padding. Any looped carpet can snag

21 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide and run, and for that reason is not often used in residential set- tings where there are small children or pets. Life expectancy for this type of carpet can be 10 years or more. Prices start around $7.50-$12.50 for 20 oz. and $9.50-$16.00 for 26 oz. for basic sin- gle-color styles.

This is a good price considering this carpet lasts a long time and takes a beating! The negative aspect of using commercial carpet is that this type of carpet is thinner than non-commercial carpets and is not as soft underfoot as typical residential carpet styles.

RUBBER BACKED CARPETS This is generally known as kitchen carpet. It usually has a pattern and has a black or yellow pad already attached to the back of the carpet. It should be glued directly to the floor. This type of carpet used to be very popular but has lost much of its appeal in recent years. When it comes time to replace rubber-back carpet it can be difficult and expensive to remove, especially when glued directly onto plywood or particleboard. When selecting this type of carpet, know that it may not last long if you have young children or pets. Spills tend to be absorbed into the backing and it is very difficult to keep clean.

Cut Berbers and other carpet styles While there are many other styles of carpeting not mentioned here, I covered the main types and styles selected by most home- owners. One style I really like is a Cut Berber, also known as a California Berber. It has a speckled multicolor appearance and has no loops, hence the word “cut“. Take a look and see what you think of it. Let’s discuss carpet fibers, the single most important aspect in se- lecting the right carpet for the home, office or rental. To make it easy on those of you who are in a hurry and want to get a carpet that will last as long as possible, here is a two-word crash course on carpet fibers; Buy Nylon! Nylon is by far the best wearing fi- ber available. You may choose another fiber for various good rea- sons, but all in all nylon is by far the best choice for the money.

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Carpet Fibers (Visit my website for the latest news and information about new fiber types)

NYLON Nylon is a synthetic fiber that outperforms all other fibers. It wears exceptionally well, is very resilient, resists abrasion, is easy to clean and carpets made of nylon will look like new longer than any other fiber. It comes in all styles and colors. What more can you ask for? Nylon is the best wearing, most durable fiber avail- able. Insist on a carpet made of nylon to reap these benefits over all other available fibers:

• Most resilient of all fibers (doesn’t mat down easily) • Maintains a new appearance longer • Easy to clean • Very durable • Can be color-dyed easily

OLEFIN (Polypropylene) Olefin is a strong good-looking synthetic fiber that is inexpensive to manufacture. Olefin wears well and has good stain resistance when anti-stain treatment is applied. Olefin has good anti-static properties. However, Olefin is not always easy to keep clean. It has poor resiliency and tends to look dingy when soiled. Some carpets that are commonly made of olefin are Berbers or commer- cial looped carpets. Outdoor grass styles are mostly made from Olefin. Large looped Berbers made of olefin tend to mat down quickly. Olefin is not the best fiber for rental units in most cases, however some have had reasonable success using an olefin com- mercial level loop carpet when it is glued directly to the floor. When glued down without pad, it is not as soft under-foot but it will last significantly longer than if installed with a pad placed under it. Wheelchairs roll easily over glued down commercial level carpets and may be an excellent choice for the elderly, Apartment unit designed for handicapped people, hospitals and

23 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide retirement home applications. POLYESTER (may also be called P.E.T.) (may be manufactured from recycled 2-liter soda pop containers) Polyester is a very soft synthetic fiber that holds its color well; however it is very difficult to clean and has poor resiliency. Traf- fic areas will usually mat down quickly and may never return to its original “like new” appearance. When new, this fiber looks great and feels so soft and wonderful, but it won’t be too long be- fore it doesn’t. Sales people recommend this type of carpet to po- tential customers without sufficient fiber knowledge. Carpet manufacturers continually try to develop and enhance this fiber in hopes that they can make a better carpet from it, so far they have had little success. Because polyester carpets are priced lower than nylon carpets many consumers are tempted to buy them, If you do, just be sure that your expectations are not too high Generally, I do not recommend buying carpets made from polyester fibers.

Sorona® Another new fiber on the market is called Sorona®, or Smart- strand®, and is a polymer made from corn. (Actually it was in- vented back in the 1940's) Invented by DuPont™, they claim this new fiber has great anti-stain properties and very durable. For me to rate this product will take some time because it is too new on the market. Although the manufacturer claims the product is great, I never recommend any products to my readers until I have personal "long-term" experience with the product. It may be a few years before I will be able to give anyone my recommendation of Sorona®. Should you buy carpet made with this new fiber? If you want a carpet that resists stains better than any other carpet on the market today, the perhaps you might want to consider buy- ing this product. If you want your carpet to last as long as possi- ble and still resists stains and cleans easily then I suggest you buy a carpet made from Nylon.

WOOL Wool is very expensive and is considered an elite fiber. I love wool carpeting because it lasts a long time if cared for properly.

24 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide As a natural animal fiber, it was not designed to tolerate excessive abrasion. It is expensive to have cleaned, but has wonderful resil- iency and it resists burning. Although still very costly, some car- pets are made with an 80% wool / 20% nylon blend. I do not rec- ommend wool carpet for rental applications.

New names for the same old fibers All fibers can be modified to make them look or feel different. Some fibers are “bulked up” to make them look or feel thicker. Some fiber strands are made thinner so they look and feel softer. These altered fibers are marketed under fancy new names. They are still the same fiber as before with the same limitations. The superficial changes do not allow them to perform any better than before, but the fiber manufacturers surely want you believe so.

Shopping for Carpet All the information you need to comparison shop for carpet should be printed on a label attached to each carpet sample. Some carpet retailers remove the manufacturer labels and replace them with their own private labels to prevent consumers from shopping around. In order to comparison shop without comparing samples, you will need to acquire all of the following information regard- ing each carpet that interests you….

1. Who manufactures the carpet? The name of the mill. 2. What style is it? Every carpet style will have a title, usually a number or style name. Examples might be “RT412” or “Simply Wonderful”. 3. The color name. Describes the color, like “Frosty Green” 4. The color number. The color number could be any combina- tion of numbers such as “3135”, or there might not be a color number at all. 5. The available carpet widths. Some carpets are made 15 feet wide; some are 13 feet 6 inches wide but most are 12 feet wide. Make a note of what widths are offered. There could be a sub- stantial savings potential. Consult your installer or flooring pro- fessional about the widths available that may apply to your situa-

25 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

Carpet Warranties

I have read plenty of carpet warranties from practically all carpet manufacturers. They all have one thing in common. If you do not follow their carpet care instructions to the letter, you will void your carpet warranty.

One of the most critical requirements is that you have your car- pets cleaned every year or two as they determine. You must keep all the receipts for these cleanings. If you cannot prove you have had your carpet cleaned according to their recommendations your warranty will be void.

One more important note. If you buy carpet with the “one price for the whole deal” pricing and you ever have need to make a warranty claim, you must have the price of “the carpet only” listed on the bill of sale. If you spend $39 per yard for carpet, pad installation and furniture moving, you had better have the specific cost of the carpet listed on the bill of sale if you hope to get any refund should there be a carpet defect. Without this, the manufac- turer will not be able to know how much money to refund you. Without this, you will not receive a refund at all.

Insist that they put the price of the carpet on your bill of sale. The pad and installation should be listed separately.

One of the most alarming carpet warranty issues that I have found is for polyester carpets. Carpets made of polyester are prone to matting and crushing. If you read the manufacturers warranties you will find that they do not warranty polyester carpets for mat- ting and crushing. I find this to be absolutely appalling that carpet manufacturers promote polyester and PET polyester as a durable and long lasting fiber and yet they know full well that it will not look like new for very long. In most cases, I find that most poly- ester carpet begin to mat down within a year after installation.

26 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide tion.

What Grade of Carpet to Select Now that you know something about carpet fibers and have some knowledge of the different carpet styles available for you to select from, you may have narrowed down your possibilities. The next decision you need to make, is what grade of carpet to buy? Well, this decision might depend on how much money you have to spend on your project, or how long you want your carpet to last. The next few pages will give you a general rule of thumb

What makes one carpet better than another?

Carpets are graded by the materials used, the amount of fiber face-weight and how well it is constructed. To make it simple and easy to understand, lets narrow it down to three basic characteris- tics: Fiber, Density and Twist.

Fiber As far as Fibers go, Nylon is the best fiber. Nylon is top qual- ity. It is the most expensive too. Nylon is your best choice if you want a carpet that will last a long time. Density How thick the fibers are and how tightly packed they are de- termine the Density. Think of it like a densely wooded forest where the trees are thick and close together. The thicker the bet- ter. The heavier the better. Dig your fingers into the pile of the carpet. Are the fibers tightly packed and thick or are your nails digging into the backing of the carpet. Twist Next check the fiber Twist. With plush styles of carpets, the tufts of fibers are twisted in the same way that people curl their hair. The carpet fibers are grouped together into tufts and twisted while heat is applied to “set” the fibers permanently, hence the term “heat set”. The tighter the fibers are twisted the better. Some count the number of twists on each tuft or group of carpet fibers. Seven twists per inch is good. Less than four are not as good. In-

27 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide expensive carpets with few twists will lose the “twist” on the tufts quickly and then the carpet will mat down and look bad. Frieze style carpets commonly have excellent “twist” and are known for being very durable and a longer lasting carpet.

1. If you intend on staying in your home for many years to come, then don’t be afraid to invest in the best carpet you can af- ford. If you can afford it, don’t be afraid to spend $20 to $45 per yard or more on your carpet, pad and installation. Some carpets are more than $30.00 per yard, and are well worth it if you can afford it. With proper care they can last a lifetime.

2. If you like to change the color scheme often or buy new fur- niture often, then you might want to consider buying a less expen- sive carpet and plan on replacing it every few years at the same time you plan to change your décor. This way, you can change your carpet color often and not have to spend a fortune every time you change the carpet. You may, however, want to buy and install the best pad right now, because a good pad will last for years and years and you won’t need to replace the pad again when you de- cide to change the carpet color.

3. If you plan to sell your home, then you need to know that it might be smart to buy a less expensive carpet to make your home “show” better, but realize that the new owners probably will want to install a carpet that will match their furniture. You might also consider re-using your existing padding, or if you need to buy new padding, then buy a less expensive pad and then the new owners can buy what they really want and you will save some money. Also, many realtors have stated that a neutral color helps to sell a home the best.

4. If you need to carpet a rental, My best advice is to buy a carpet that is nice looking, a bit on the dark side to help hide dirt and spend as little as you can on the carpet and the padding for a rental. Tenants can destroy an expen- sive carpet as fast as they can destroy an inexpensive carpet, so

28 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide save yourself some money and put in an apartment grade carpet. You can buy this type of carpet for about $7.00 to $9.00 per yard and get a 4 to 6 pound pad for about $2.00-$3.00 per yard.

Installation prices vary from town to town; you can check your local newspapers in the service section to find carpet installers to do the job. You will have to pay extra if you want the old carpet and pad removed and hauled away. If you can get the whole job done for about $15.00 per yard it is a fair deal.

Here’s what I mean:

Carpet (apartment grade) 8.00 per yard Pad (3/8” - 4-6 pound) 2.50 per yard Installation 3.50 per yard Haul away old carpet and pad 1.00 per yard Total 15.00 per yard

5. If you have young children or pets, It’s probably best to put in a less expensive carpet in the areas they will frequent. Perhaps you might want to put a better grade in the master bedroom. Also, as the children get older they are not as hard on carpets, so you might want to wait till they are older before investing a lot on car- pet. Cats can ruin a new carpet in a few days if allowed to urinate on it. They tend to find a quiet corner or two, probably behind some furniture where they can’t be seen, and by the time you discover the wet areas, it is too late. The smell will never completely come out.

Dogs are usually not as sneaky or stinky as cats are. Sometimes pets may urinate in the house as a territorial thing especially if an- other animal has previously left its scent in the house. Your pet may try to “overpower” the scent of the previous pet. In this sce- nario you may have a rough time trying to remedy the problem.

29 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

How Carpet is Installed Knowing how carpet is installed will give you a lot of insight as to whether or not it is being installed correctly and prepare you for the experience of having your carpet installed.

You wouldn’t believe how many times someone has walked up to me and said “you lay carpet? I used to lay carpet!” It seems like almost everyone has installed carpet before, and practically every carpet installer believes that they are the best in the field. Carpet layers each have their own methods and techniques that make them unique. Installing carpet is hard work, but the princi- ple is really very simple. Here is a basic description of carpet in- stallation: First, all doors must be removed and the old carpet and pad- ding. Homes with existing wall to wall carpet already have tack- strips installed and may be reused. Tack-less strips (also called tackstrips) are nailed down around the perimeter of the room. Tack strips are 4’ long wooden strips, and are nailed directly to the floor around the perimeter of the room. They have many very sharp nails that are aimed towards the wall and are designed to hold the carpet tight, after being stretched over them. Next, the pad is rolled out and stapled down to wooden floors or glued down to concrete floors. The pad is then trimmed up to the inside edge of the tack strips, making sure that the pad does not lie on top of the tack strip. Next, the carpet is rolled out, in a predetermined direction and positioned on top of the pad. If there are seams to be put to- gether, preparation now begins. Because carpet usually comes in 12 foot widths, it is sometimes necessary to seam together two pieces of carpet in order to make it wide enough for the room size. Two separate pieces of carpet are then joined together using a seaming iron, an electric iron that simply heats a hot-melt adhesive tape that is placed underneath the edges of both carpet pieces to be joined. Before two edges of carpet are joined, both sides must be cut perfectly straight, as this will help to hide the finished seam from view.

30 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide After the seam tape becomes hot, both edges of the carpet are carefully placed into the hot glue, and allowed to cool. The carpet is then stretched from each wall to the opposite wall and attached to the tackstrips allowing a few inches of carpet to go up each wall. After the carpet has been completely secured to the tackstrips, the carpet is trimmed flush with the walls. Then the trimmed car- pet edge is neatly tucked down. The carpet around the doorjambs is trimmed by hand and neatly tucked. A good installer will always remove all carpet scraps and replace all doors and sliding closet doors and hard- ware, and if you are really lucky he may even vacuum! Although this is a very basic description of how carpet is installed, it should help you to know a bit about carpet installation before your in- staller comes to install your new carpet.

Note: It is very important to have children and pets safely out of the way when your carpet is being installed, as most tools used to install carpets can be hazardous.

Gluing down commercial carpet Commercial carpet should be glued directly to the floor to get the longest life span. There are no tack strips used in this procedure, as it is not stretched-in like regular carpets are. An adhesive is spread onto the floor and the carpet is set into the adhesive. A heavy roller is applied to the carpet surface to set the carpet back- ing firmly into the adhesive bed. The carpet is then trimmed in and either wood molding or rubber base molding is installed to finish the job. This type of installation is best in commercial set- tings, because the carpet will last the longest and tolerate heavy traffic best when installed this way. Although it is not as popular in residential applications, com- mercial glued-down carpet is sometimes a good choice in family rooms, children’s play areas, rental units, on stairs or other utili- tarian areas that require a high traffic carpet. These styles are usu- ally made of nylon or olefin and will clean easily if treated with an anti-stain chemical.

31 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

How to find a good independent carpet installer

One great way to save money is to find a qualified independent carpet installer and negotiate a fair price. This way you can avoid paying an installation surcharge to the carpet retailer. You can usually find several to choose from in the yellow pages, under the heading of “Carpet” and there might be a sub-heading for “carpet layers”. In most cases you can find qualified installers in the service directory of your local newspapers. Look under the heading of “floor coverings”, or “carpet services”. Probably the best way to find a good installer is by word-of-mouth. Ask your friends or relatives, or co-workers who they may know. Some larger cities may have a local Carpet Layers Union. Union workers are paid by the hour, not by the yard. This may be a good way to find a good installer. Check your yellow pages. Before you begin calling around to find an installer, there are a few things you need to know to ask a potential installer in order to find a good one. As with any trade, some installers are just not worth hiring. In fact, the good ones are the hardest to find because they already have a busy schedule due to a great word-of-mouth reputation. These guys may not need to advertise in order to keep busy so the only way to find them may only be through someone who knows them. Carpet retailers often have a difficult time find- ing good installers because the best installers often do not need or want to work through a retail store. A well-established carpet installer may be able to offer you a lot more than just a good installation job. They usually know who the fair carpet dealers are and who are not. Knowing this could save you a lot of time. They may also be able to help you get a good deal on your carpet or padding through their sources. Learn more about finding a qualified carpet installer on page 46.

“A well established carpet installer could help you get a good price on your carpet, pad and installation!”

32 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

9 questions you must ask your carpet installer

1. Are you licensed bonded and insured? Many states now require contractor certification. Even if your State does not require a license, always hire an installer that is bonded and insured.

2. What is your state issued registration number? You can call the State and verify the status of his license and see if there have been any complaints filed against the installer.

3. How long have you been installing carpet? Always ask for references and require at least 5 years experience.

4. What type of experience do you have? (Apartment work, new construction, custom homes or remodeling?) Hire someone who is experienced in doing your type of work! More on page 46.

5. Do you always use a power stretcher? Good installers always use a power stretcher to install carpet properly.

6. How much do you charge per yard? The installer should ask you a few questions to determine the proper charge. Some carpets are more expensive to install than others are, and there are usually extra charges for stairs, hauling away the old carpet, transition metal, furniture moving etc.

7. How far in advance must I schedule you? Carpet installers like to have some advance notice, they also want to be sure that your carpet has arrived before they come to install it. They may deliver your carpet and pad for a small fee.

8. Can you supply me with some references? Ask for several from jobs similar to yours. Check references.

9. Will you measure how much carpet I need? Do you charge for measuring?

33 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Many installers charge a fee for measuring how much carpet you need but will refund the charge if you have them install your car- pet. Don’t trust a carpet salesperson to measure how much carpet you need. You would be wise to have an experienced installer measure for you, even if it costs you $25. Proper measuring and seam placement is essential.

Carpet installation fees Residential carpet installation prices vary widely in the United States but you can figure the highest prices are in the Northeast- ern States and in the Pacific Northwest.

The lowest prices are in Southern California, Southern Texas and Southern Florida. I know firsthand that in Miami, Florida prices are near $1.50 – $2.50 per yard. In Portland, Oregon the prices are currently about $3.50 – $4.50 per yard for apartment work and $4.50 to $6.50 for residential work. Berber carpets usu- ally command a higher installation charges. Figure an additional $1.00 to $2.00 per yard due to the increased difficulty in cutting, seaming and stretching.

You should call around and talk to several installers in your area to get an idea of the going rates. Don’t forget to ask about additional charges and fees. There are usually extra charges for stairs, furniture moving, delivering the carpet, floor preparation, removing old carpet and pad, dump fees, sealing floors, transition metals, measuring, weekend work, and many installers charge ex- tra if you watch them while they work. (just kidding)

Learn more about installation fees on pages 82-84.

Alan’s Preferred Carpet Dealer Directory On my free carpet information website at www.AbcCarpets.com, I have compiled my own special list of Preferred Carpet Dealers. I choose those who are family-owned and operated, offer reason- able prices and provide very good service. Visit my website to se- lect your city or state to see who I recommend near you.

34 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

How To Save Money On Padding The correct padding is very important to the life span of your car- pet! When you buy carpet you will usually need to buy new pad to go underneath it. However, sometimes it is possible to re-use the old pad that is under your existing carpet if it is in good condi- tion, has not deteriorated, and has enough spring left in it to serve your carpet properly. Realistically, you or your carpet installer is qualified to determine if your existing pad is re-usable. Don’t rely on a retail salesperson to determine this, as they are in the busi- ness of selling pad and usually work on a commission basis.

“After your old carpet is removed, take a minute to inspect your existing pad. If you can re-use some or all of your existing pad, you will save big money!”

The purpose of installing proper padding under carpet is to pro- vide a soft cushion of comfort to walk on, and to support and pro- tect the carpet from excessive wear, abrasion and from losing its stretch prematurely. In most cases, inexpensive low-density pad will only last a few years before it needs to be replaced. Installing a higher quality pad can extend the life span of any carpet signifi- cantly.

• Density, not thickness, always determines the quality of a carpet padding.

• A good quality pad will have a density/weight rating of at least 6 pounds.

• A poor quality pad is usually considered to be about 4 pounds density or less.

Three (3) pound Pad is what many apartments use when they re- place the carpet in a rental unit. This low quality pad tends to only last a couple of years at best, before it becomes flattened and use- less, especially in high traffic areas like hallways. While you can

35 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide buy padding anywhere from 3 pounds to 10 pounds in weight, you also have to consider the thickness of the pad. Padding is available in 1/4” , 3/8”, 7/16” and 1/2” thickness. Remember, thicker does not mean better. Pad that is 7/16” thick is most com- mon for most residential grade plush styles of carpet.

Density and thickness are not the same thing. If the pad you buy is the wrong thickness or density, you may unknowingly void the manufacturers warranty and/or shorten the normal life span of your new carpet. You may also void any installation warranty that the carpet installer may provide, (usually 1 year) because the wrong pad may cause the carpet to stretch out and cause wrinkles in the carpet.

Save 10 to 15% on padding Virtually all carpet retailers will try to charge you for the same amount of padding as you need of carpet. Even though it is the industry standard to charge you for equal amounts of carpet and pad, you may not need as many yards of pad as you do carpet. For example, if you need to buy 100 yards of carpet you may only need 85 to 90 yards of pad! Why? When your home is measured to determine how many yards of carpet will be needed to do the job, a few extra inches need to be added to each room measure- ment to allow for proper stretching and trimming procedures. Carpet must always be laid out in the same direction and this cre- ates some unavoidable carpet waste. This is not the case with pad. Pad can be installed in any direction and even the smallest scraps can be pieced-together without any negative results. Your in- staller may have to work a few extra minutes to install the pad if you buy a few less yards of pad, but you will save a lot of money.

What to do 1. When you order your carpet from the retailer just order enough padding to equal about 85-90% of the total yards of carpet you need. You could always order more padding quickly should you run short. If you are installing over 100 yards you should be able to save 15% overall. OR

36 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide 2. Simply tell the carpet retailer that you will only pay for the ac- tual amount of padding used. You may not save quite as much this way, but this tactic tends to work better with smaller jobs. You should still save 5 to 10%. Note: Some carpet retailers may not want to cooperate with you and may insist that you must buy equal amounts of carpet and pad. In this case you should ask for a discount that is at least equal to 10% off the price of the pad.

How to buy your pad wholesale Some flooring distributors will sell padding to the general public and this could save you a bundle. When buying pad from a distributor, you must buy full rolls. This can work for you or against you, depending on how many yards of pad you need. For example, Padding typically comes in 20, 30 or 40 yard rolls de- pending on the type or style you need. Rebond pad generally comes in 30 yard rolls. If you are installing 80 yards of carpet and the padding you need comes in 30 yard rolls, you would need to buy three rolls of pad equaling 90 yards. In this scenario, you will have at least 10 yards of pad leftover, and you cannot return the unused pad. On the other hand, if you are installing 100 yards of carpet you could buy three rolls of padding (30 yards per roll) and have 90 yards of pad, which is just about the right amount of padding you would need. Check the phone book for carpet or flooring distributors in your area. Look under “carpet supply, or “carpet sundries“” in the yellow pages. These businesses may or may not sell to you, but it is worth a shot. Call and ask if they have padding in stock and then just visit them and try to buy your pad.

Tip: When you visit them, bring a pickup or van to haul your padding and look the part of a carpet layer by wearing old jeans and a tee-shirt. If they ask you for your account number or busi- ness name, just say “this is a cash sale”. Be well prepared by knowing exactly what type, thickness and density of padding you need. Say it like this: I need 3 rolls of 6 lb., 7/16“, Rebond pad- ding. Are those 30 yard or 40 yard rolls?

37 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

Various Types of Carpet Padding

There are many different types of pad available today in order to accommodate all the various types of carpeting. Here we will mainly discuss the types of pad that you will generally need when carpeting your home, office or rentals.

Foam pad This type of pad is often very inexpensive and lightweight. If a retail store tries to give you free pad with your carpet purchase; this is usually what they will try to give you. It will lie completely flat as a pancake after a year or so and is not a good choice for a residential setting. Some apartment owners use this type of pad because it is very inexpensive. You might come across a good quality foam pad in your search for the right carpet, but they are usually over-priced and don’t offer as much support as a good quality rebond pad.

Rebond pad (Best Value) This type of pad is made of urethane and is most common in the residential setting. It is made from recycled materials, mainly from recycled foam pad. It is multi-colored. It is available every- where, and in almost every thickness and density. This could be a good choice for your home or office if you choose the right thick- ness and density.

Hair pad or Synthetic Fiber pad These types of pad are used primarily for Berber and commercial level loop carpets. It is very dense and not spongy at all. Made from recycled or shredded fabrics and fibers, it is designed to al- low looped Berbers and commercial level loop carpets to wear well in heavy traffic situations, and to prevent certain types of carpet from getting stretched-out. Synthetic fiber pad is great for basements because it breathes very well and resist mold and mil- dew. Dense pad may be required by the carpet mill to maintain you carpet warranty, if you choose these styles or types of carpet.

38 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Rubber waffle pad This used to be a very popular type of pad but is used less today because of its high cost per yard. This pad looks like tire tread and used to be made of rubber and clay. Today is made without clay additives and is a much better product. It is still hard to work with because it is so heavy. It usually comes only 4 feet wide and in my opinion, does not compete with other less-expensive choices available. I believe rubber pad may make a comeback and become popular once again. Either way, it will be too expensive for rental applications. Some people recommend this type of pad and would say that this is a good pad, but it would not be my first choice.

Solid flat rubber pad (slab) This is a flat and dense type of padding made of rubber. It is usu- ally used in commercial applications, under commercial carpeting in high traffic applications. It is much more expensive than re- bond padding. This could be a good padding for a basement ap- plication where a higher thermal performance is desired.

Pet odor and moisture barrier pads There have been several types of specialty pads introduced on the market in the past few years. Some claim to help prevent or mask the smell from pet odors while others offer a moisture barrier in an attempt to contain pet accidents. In most cases, I feel all these pads are unnecessary and over-priced and I do not recommend buying them. In some cases, moisture barrier pads may make your pet urine and odor problem worse. If you have a pet accident problem, spending additional money on special padding will not solve the problem. There is seldom a need to buy a specialty pad- ding.

Each carpet manufacturer may have specific requirements as to what type of pad you must use in order to maintain your carpet warranty. Always check the carpet manufacturers’ requirements before you buy padding.

39 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

What Padding Should I Use?

Here is a basic idea of what pad is usually required or the mini- mum necessary to provide proper support for carpet in your home:

CARPET STYLE PAD THICKNESS PAD DENSITY TYPE OF PAD

PLUSH 7/16” TO 1/2” 6 TO 8 LBS. REBOND

TEXTURED 7/16” TO 1/2” 6 TO 8 LBS. REBOND

FRIEZE 7/16” TO 1/2” 6 TO 8 LBS. REBOND

SCULPTURED 7/16” TO 1/2 6 TO 8 LBS. REBOND

BERBER 1/4” TO 3/8” 6 TO 8 LBS. REBOND, FIBER, HAIR PAD, RUBBER

COMMERCIAL 1/4” 6 TO 10 LBS. REBOND, FIBER, HAIR PAD, RUBBER I do not recommend any pad that is rated less than 6-pound density rating for residential purposes.

40 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

Frequently Asked Questions

What is anti-static? Many carpets today are pre-treated with a chemical to help lower the effects of static electricity from your carpet. Static electricity is usually only a problem when the air is dry and the outside tem- perature is cold. It can be quite a nuisance to get a small but unex- pected static shock when touching other people or various metal- lic objects around the house. Anti- static treatment lowers the amount of static electricity that may be generated through your carpets. While this treatment is not a cure-all, it will significantly lower the effects of static electricity in your home. This treatment is a nice feature to have for your carpet, but is not available in all carpets. If you feel that it is important to have this feature, then ask for it when you are searching for your carpet.

What is anti-stain?

Most quality carpets today are treated with anti-stain treatments. This fiber treatment will allow most household spills to be re- moved easily. While there will always be stains that will be im- possible to remove, I believe that this anti- stain treatment is something worth having. There are several well-known brand names in the industry, and I believe that they each offer a good anti-stain carpet treatment. My advice to you is to make sure that the carpet you buy has an anti- stain treatment.

Should I use the carpet installers that work for the retail car- pet store?

If the State that you live in does not require that all carpet in- stallers have a state license or registration number, a financial bond, and business liability insurance. Then it would be smart to use the retail carpet store’s installers. In the event of unsatisfac- tory installation, you will have the best recourse through the car-

41 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide pet store. If, however, the State that you live in requires a license, bond and insurance for all independent construction workers, you will be better off using an independent licensed, bonded and in- sured installer. If you should ever need to seek recourse, because of unsatisfactory installation of your carpet, your State Contrac- tor’s Board would become involved in order to help you process your claim, if the installer is at fault and fails to satisfy you. This consumer protection has been set up by the state to guard against transient, flaky or unskilled construction workers.

Be sure to get the installers’ registration number and call the state office to verify that his license is current!

What should I do if believe that my carpet is defective or in- stalled poorly or improperly? First you need to know your options. If the store provided instal- lation in a complete one-price deal for your carpet purchase, then you need to call your carpet retailer if you feel that your carpet is defective or installed poorly. If, however, you had your carpet in- stalled by an independent carpet installer (not affiliated with the carpet store where you bought your carpet), then you need to con- tact the installer directly. The carpet installer is sometimes re- sponsible if he installs your carpet with visible defects. If, how- ever the defects are difficult to see prior to the installation, then the carpet retailer and/or the carpet mill may be responsible for resolving the problem. It would be very smart on your part, to in- spect the carpet job thoroughly, after the carpet is installed, but while the installer is still at your home, before you pay the in- staller or the store for the completed job. Then if you notice something unsatisfactory with the installation or with the carpet, (ugly or bad looking seams, color fading or shading, insufficiently stretched, wrinkles in or lumps under the carpet...) then you can withhold payment until you are completely satisfied with the completed job!

Payment upon satisfactory completion is your best defense against poor workmanship and/or defective carpet.

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How do I know if my carpet has been installed correctly? Unless you are an expert carpet installer, it can be difficult for you to know if you have received a great installation job, or just a good one. Fortunately, it should be relatively easy to determine if you have received a poor installation job. Prior to having your carpet installed you should have checked out references of your installer and, if he is an independent contractor, you should have already called the State office and made sure his license is cur- rent. If the installer works through the retail carpet store where you bought your carpet, then you will want to be sure to inspect the job thoroughly right after he has finished installing your new carpet. Do not pay for the job until you are completely satisfied! Some retailers may ask for a deposit, as much as a 50% down payment when ordering your carpet. This is an acceptable prac- tice, but never pay the final amount due until you are completely satisfied! I can’t stress this one fact enough!

When trying to determine if your carpet has been installed cor- rectly, know that carpet must be properly stretched into place. A good installer will always “power-stretch “ your carpet. That is to say, he will use a tool that uses leverage to effectively stretch your carpet tight from one wall to each opposite wall. I’m not talking about a Knee-kicker here. A power-stretcher has a three- foot handle that is pressed down by hand. It has a large 6”x 12” head that lies on top of the carpet, it grips the carpet with rows of metal teeth. The installer will have to stand up to use a power stretcher. A knee-kicker is a two-foot long hand tool that is used while on your knees. Visit my website www.howtobuycarpet.com to print out my free Carpet Installation Checklist.

Power stretching A power-stretcher must be used to install carpet properly. After the carpet is installed, look at all areas of the carpet. Look for any loose areas, that is, areas that don’t appear to be stretched tight. Here is a simple test to determine if a room has been stretched

43 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide tight enough: Go to the center of each room. With your index fin- ger and thumb, reach down and grab some carpet fibers and pull up on the carpet sharply. You should only be able to pull the car- pet up off the floor about 1 inch or so before you loose your grip and the carpet will snap back down to the floor. If you can pull up the carpet more than 2 inches off the floor, then your carpet is probably not stretched tight enough. At this point you should sim- ply point out to the installer that you think the carpet is too loose and ask him to stretch it in tighter. Unless he can satisfy your con- cerns, withhold the final payment until you are convinced that your carpet has been installed right!

Seaming carpet together Seaming carpet is the true art of the carpet laying profession. A good installer will have mastered this ability. Not all carpets are the same, and you should understand that seams in white and lighter colored carpets are the most difficult to hide, and that with darker colors, your installer will be able to hide a seam more eas- ily. Be understanding when you order white or off white carpets, as these are the most difficult seams to hide. Even the best in- stallers are unable to completely hide a seam with white or off- white carpets. Seams should be located in low-traffic areas when- ever possible.

Inspecting for color or shading variances If the seams are very noticeable, you may want to check and see if the carpet is the same shade/color on both sides of the seam. Sometimes if the carpet has shading or color variance defect, a seam will be more noticeable than usual. You may find that this is the case when looking closely at both sides of a seam. A roll of carpet may have a lighter shade at the end of the roll than at the beginning of the roll. A noticeable seam may be the result of a carpet defect and not a “bad” seam job. If it is a defect, the carpet manufacturer or the retail carpet store may be responsible for re- placing the affected carpet.

If you find that one side of the seam is noticeably darker than the

44 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

Carpet shading problems are difficult to notice when looking at a roll of carpet because the color at one end of the roll may be slightly darker than the oppo- site end of the roll. When carpet is made, the carpet mill tries to ensure that the color is applied evenly to the carpet throughout the entire roll, but sometimes there are noticeable variances. other side of the seam, then you will need to notify the installer and/or the carpet retailer. Withhold your final payment until you are completely satisfied, and you will surely receive prompt atten- tion to your concerns.

Other things you may want to look for, before you installer leaves are areas that may not be tucked well or heating vents in the floor that may not have been cut out. Look at all the seams in the car- pet. Are they nearly invisible or easy to see? If you know where to look a seam is visible but it should not be obvious. Don’t be afraid to point out your concerns to your installer, it’s better to have him fix it now rather than come back another day.

Important If you find color problems with your carpet, notify the retailer and/or installer as quickly as possible. The carpet manufacturer may still have the same dye-lot in stock. If you wait too long you may not be able to match the color in the event that more carpet is needed to remedy the color problem.

Visit my website www.Howtobuycarpet.com for a free carpet installation checklist.

45 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

How to Find a Qualified Installer For many homeowners, finding a good carpet installer can be frustrating and difficult. Especially when you consider that some carpet installation jobs are more difficult than others and require a more experienced installer. You need to be careful who you allow to install your carpet because some are not as qualified as others. For example, installing expensive carpet in a custom home re- quires much more expertise than does installing apartment-grade carpet in a rental unit. Of course everyone wants his or her carpet to be installed correctly, and my advice is to hire an installer with minimum of 5 years experience for even a simple installation job. So, if you buy a more expensive carpet or the job is difficult or tricky, then you should find an installer with more experience. I personally believe that it takes at least 10 years before a flooring installer can truly begin to master their trade. There is little-known factor to consider when looking for a good carpet installer. The question you need to have the answer to is “what type of experience do they have?” Here is what I mean: There are basically three levels of expertise with carpet installers: 1. Property Management (apartment grade carpet) The experience this type of carpet installer has is obtained from installing lower grades of carpet in apartments. They may have limited experience with installing carpet on stairs, and perhaps limited experience with difficult or tricky installations. They gen- erally use lower quality installation products (glues, seam tape, tack-less strips, transition metals) in order to save money. Prop- erty owners and managers often do not properly inspect the qual- ity of work performed by installers doing apartment work. Many carpet layers started as a carpet layers helper and for this reason few are formally trained or have completed an apprentice pro- gram. This is not to say that you should not hire them, but you need to be aware that some may lack the experience to perform more difficult carpet installations. Installers who do apartment work are generally paid the least amount per yard overall.

46 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide 2. New home construction (construction grade carpet) Installers with the bulk of their trade experience from new con- struction will have increased knowledge of installing different types of stairs. (Carpet can be very difficult to install on some types of stairs) They will tend to have more experience with vari- ous styles and grades of carpet as well. They must satisfy the both the homebuilder and the homeowners with their performance, which make them pay closer attention to detail. Builders usually pay less than the standard rate for this type of installer but there is usually a greater volume of work available.

3. Custom Homes and Residential Remodels By far, carpet installers with experience derived mainly from do- ing custom homes or residential work have the greatest amount of expertise. They are qualified to perform the most difficult instal- lation jobs using all types and grades of carpet. Most of these in- stallers have had some type of formal training or were trained by someone who was a master craftsman. You should expect to pay more to hire this type of carpet installer, but the quality of work you receive will be well worth it. By determining the type of experience that a carpet in- staller has, you can better gauge their ability to handle completing your carpet job properly and the range of prices they may charge for their services. You can also lower your installation costs by hiring a less experienced installer if you have a simple job that a less experienced installer could easily perform.

“Finding a well-established installer could help you get a really good price on your carpet, pad and installation!”

Hiring an experienced carpet installer can offer you a lot more than just a good installation job. Installers usually know which carpet dealers are fair and who are not. Some carpet in- stallers can buy carpet at near-wholesale prices and may be will- ing to help you save money on materials. Finding a well- established installer could help you get a really good price on your carpet, pad and installation. As with any trade, some in-

47 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide stallers are just not worth hiring. In fact, the real good installers are the hardest to find. They often have a busy schedule due to a great word-of-mouth reputation. These professionals may not need to advertise in order to keep busy, so the only way to find them may only be through someone who knows them or who has hired them in the past. Ask your friends, relatives or co-workers who they might recommend. Its better to pay a little more to get your carpet installed properly.

Who to call Retail carpet stores will not usually allow you to hire their in- stallers unless you buy carpet from them. Carpet retailers often have a difficult time finding and keeping good installers because the best installers are busy enough due to their reputation alone, and don’t need or even want to work for a retail carpet store. Many retailers mark-up the installation fees in order to make more profit. You can avoid this added charge by hiring an inde- pendent carpet installer. Here are 5 places you may find a good carpet installer:

• You could find a good carpet installer in the yellow pages, un- der the heading of “Carpet”. There is sometimes a sub- heading for “Carpet Layers”.

• You can find qualified Installers in the service directory of your local newspapers. Look under the heading of “Floor Coverings”, or “Carpet Services”.

• Larger cities may have a Local Carpet Layers Union. Union workers are paid by the hour, not by the yard. This may be a great way to find a qualified Installer.

• On the Internet, you can search the web for installers in your area by accessing the yellow pages online. There are also web site that have pre-screened contractors. Give it a try.

• Call a local flooring Supply Company. They might be able to

48 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide give you the names of a few installers. Find these businesses in the yellow pages under Carpet, sub-heading of Carpet Sun- dries, Flooring materials or Carpet Equipment and Supplies.

How do I know if I’m getting a good price?

There is a lot of mark-up on carpet. In most cases, retailers like to make at least a 40% return on their money. That means if they can buy the carpet for $10 per yard, they will sell it to you for $17 per yard. Yes, it does sound like a lot of profit, but many carpet retailers have a lot of expenses to pay. The more overhead a retailer has, the more profit they need to make in order to stay in business. Some retailers operate at a much higher profit margin. These are the ones you have to look out for. You must shop around to find the best price. It is very important that you under- stand the method used to price carpets. You can’t determine if you are getting a good deal unless you fully understand this prin- ciple. Many retailers and home improvement stores are now selling carpet using the square foot method of pricing. Whoever came up with the idea believes that it is easier for consumers to under- stand the pricing this way, but I don’t agree. Using the square foot method makes the prices seem lower, and that could cause some people to not understand what the final cost would be. Let me ex- plain it for you. It takes 9 square feet to make 1 square yard, so if you find carpet priced at $2.78 per square foot, it will add up to the equivalent of $25.02 per yard! ($2.78 x 9 = $25.02 here are the formulas for figuring carpet.

Turning square yardage into square feet Square yardage times x 9 = square feet (Example: 100 yards x 9 = 900 square feet)

Turning square feet into square yards Square feet divided by 9 = square yards (Example: 900 square feet divided by 9 = 100 square yards)

49 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Some people have bought carpet without knowing how the pricing system works, and were shocked to find out that the actual cost was 9 times higher! The carpet was priced at 3.14 per square foot and the customer believed that it was $3.14 per yard! Wow, that’s how much it cost fifty years ago!

If I had to buy from a carpet retailer: • I would choose one that did not use repetitive and expensive advertising on television, newspapers or radio. • I would find a dealer that did not have a giant yellow page ad (do you know how much they cost?), • I would not buy from one that offers me free items to coax me into buying, or have signs with phrases like “wholesale to the public”, or “factory direct prices”. • If cost is an issue, I may consider buying “seconds” from a dealer who has rolls of carpet in stock, and as long as I can get a written guarantee in the event of a defect other than was revealed to me at the time of purchase.

I want to buy from someone who will provide good service before and after the sale. I want to buy from a company that appreciates my business enough to be up-front and truthful. If I can save twenty bucks by having an additional seam in the closet, I want to know about it. It is their job to tell you all your options and let you make the final decisions. Unfortunately, finding a retailer that will be able to provide this type of service will not always be easy. Be wary of commissioned salespeople. They are often only in it for the money and often don’t have your best interests in mind. This is what my experience has shown me, but you may be able to negotiate a fair price from any retailer. Take this book with you when you shop. To make comparison shopping easier for you I have included comparison shopping forms on page 26 and starting on page 87 for you to write down important informa- tion about the various carpets you may be interested in. Feel free to make additional copies as needed for your personal use. Remember, just because you find a good price at a particular

50 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide store, doesn't mean you have to use their carpet installers to install your carpeting. You need to get the best price you can on the quality and grade of carpet you need, and while you are at it, find the best price on the right thickness and density pad you need.

You don’t even have to buy the padding at the same store where you buy the carpet! You could buy your pad wholesale at a flooring supply company. You would have to buy full rolls, but you could potentially save a bundle if you did it right. Carpeting is a big investment in your home and making the right choices go a long way to making it last the longest and saving the most money. Finally, getting a good price on carpet is only part of the bat- tle. Getting the job done right from start to finish is the goal. When its all said and done, you want to have the right carpet, with the right pad, installed correctly and be happy with the overall price too. That is the best case scenario. Maybe you paid a little more than you should have, but if everything else went smoothly you are still way ahead of the game. So many people today end up with the wrong carpet for their needs, overpriced pad, im- proper installation and worst of all; they don’t even know it!

Congratulations! By seeking advice on how to buy carpet you are not going to be a victim due to ignorance or by those ruthless carpet scoundrels! Reading up on the subject will surely make you a winner! I hope you enjoy your search for the right carpet- ing!

How do I Know How Much Carpet I need?

Many consumers are overcharged due to over-measuring. It won’t be easy for you to tell if you are the victim of over- measuring, but I will try to make it simple for you. Some carpet installers may charge you $50.00 to come to your home and measure your carpet needs; others may not charge you anything. Retail carpet stores may come to your home and measure for you too, but be prepared for the salesman to try to pressure you into a

51 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide commitment, and don‘t trust his measurements without a second opinion. Either way, even if you spend $50.00 or so to get the true amount of carpet yardage you need, you could save yourself hun- dreds of dollars.

Over-measuring is the most common way that consumers are overcharged. When installed, carpet must all be laid out in the same direc- tion, and when measuring, you must allow at least an extra 2” up each wall and a little extra to do the seams. You should also be aware that carpet is usually 12 feet wide. This may cause you to have significant waste if you have a room that is only 10 feet wide. It is also important to understand that seams should only be placed in certain areas such as under doorways, under beds, under couch areas and basically should be placed in low-traffic areas if at all possible. A seam should never be placed in a high-traffic area unless there are no other options. It is the goal of every carpet installer to have as few seams as possible. Inexperienced carpet salespeople do not consider how many seams there are, or where they are placed. Don’t be afraid to ask the salespeople or installers who meas- ure your home to tell you where the seams are to be placed. Ask them to provide you with a simple diagram of your home that shows how they plan on laying-out your carpet and where all the seams will be. Be sure to ask how much waste there will be and be sure that you keep any sizeable leftover carpet in case you need to patch in a damaged area sometime. (It would be almost impossible to ex- actly match your carpet color, should you need to patch in a dam- aged area sometime in the future, if you had to order more.)

Get several measurements of your home and consider all possible layouts before you agree to purchase the amount of carpet that you need to buy.

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How do I avoid being ripped-off or overcharged?

Consumers are frequently misinformed, over-charged or sold the wrong flooring materials. There are too many flooring sales- people that will tell you just about anything in order to convince you to buy from them. Because many are not paid by the hour, they are commissioned salespeople. For them, no sale means no pay, and hunger can easily cause people to sacrifice integrity. Also common and I have seen this time and time again, is where consumers have absolutely no knowledge about the floor- ing that they have purchased. They usually know how much they spent on it, but they don’t know what type of fiber the carpet is made of or what type of padding was selected to have installed underneath it. They have trusted the salesperson completely to make all the decisions for them. Sometimes that works and every- thing turns out all right, sometimes it is costly mistake.

• Don’t trust a salesperson to make decisions for you, do your homework. Check my website for the latest information. • Always get a second opinion on flooring materials that have been recommended to you. • Be sure to buy flooring that is designed to meet your needs and your lifestyle. Not all the blame should be placed upon the salesperson, I am concerned with the fact that a large percentage of flooring sales- people may not know complete or accurate product information to be able to recommend the right flooring for consumers. One factor that contributes to this is that there are factory in- centives and contests offered to dealers and salespeople that in- clude bonuses, trips and prizes for selling quantities of a certain flooring product. Similarly, if a dealer can purchase a large quan- tity of a flooring material at a discounted price they may require that their salespeople urge customers to buy it whether it is the best choice for them or not.

53 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide How can I determine the durability of resilient flooring materials? (vinyl flooring) In order for consumers to determine the durability of various types of resilient flooring (sheet vinyl) as related to traffic wear, several important factors would need to be taken into account, they are: • Abrasion resistance. • Resistance to gouging, punctures, cuts & impacts. • Rolling, sliding and standing load tolerances.

Unless you are prepared to personally test the abrasion resis- tance of flooring materials yourself, the above information makes it easy to see that the average consumer would not have the knowledge or resources to be able to perform tests to determine the durability of resilient flooring. For this reason, consumers are almost completely reliant upon the advice of flooring salespeople that they encounter while shopping or information obtained or de- rived directly from the flooring manufacturer. The same is true with carpet and padding. Consumers must not assume that the in- formation or advice they hear is true. Always get a second or third opinion! Should I rely on the advice of salespeople Most of the information provided to retailers and retail sales- people comes from the manufacturer. Each flooring material manufacturer has their own specific methods and procedures for testing and rating their various products. They also word their product warranties in such a way to limit their liabilities and re- sponsibilities to the consumer. A common carpet wear warranty states that a carpet will not lose more than 10% of its fiber weight within a 10 year period. My experience has revealed that even if a carpet appears totally worn out, it still retains more than 90% of its original fiber weight. It would be very difficult for a consumer to substantiate an excessive wear claim with this type of warranty. 54 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Understanding the answers to your questions When you ask a retail salesperson a pertinent question about a particular flooring product, the answer you receive may be de- rived from one of four basic sources:

1. Information (right or wrong) provided to the salesperson from the product manufacturer. 2. The actual “hands-on” experience or knowledge that the sales- person has personally witnessed or observed, or has accumu- lated from information received from flooring professionals. 3. Misinformation from any source. 4. Accurate information from unverifiable sources.

Consumers are at the mercy of retail salespeople to provide accurate, honest, and truthful information about their products and services. Unfortunately the answers you get to your questions may be coming from a misinformed or unqualified source. It is for this reason that you must be sure to verify everything that you hear. That means getting a second or perhaps a third opinion.

Accurate measuring Unless you know how to properly measure for flooring, you would not have any way to be sure if the measurements are accu- rate. That’s the problem. Most consumers don’t get several esti- mates. They usually buy flooring from the first dealer they find with a product that they like. It is a well know fact that consumers will most often buy from salespeople that they like, and any smooth talking, personable salesperson could easily convince most consumers to buy the products, in the quantity they recom- mend, without ever seeking a second opinion. • Always get several estimates. • Insist that a flooring diagram be provided to you including measurements and seam locations. • Consider paying an independent carpet layer to measure your home for you. It may cost $25-60 but is well worth it. • Unless you are a professional never use your own measure- ments. Measuring for carpet should be done by professionals.

55 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Unscrupulous carpet sales gimmicks and scams In recent years, the auto sales industry has been publicly exposed to some degree and because of this it is now much easier for con- sumers to get a fair price when buying a new or used car. Con- sumers can now gain access to information about how much the dealer has paid for new automobiles or find out the bluebook value on used vehicles and use that information to negotiate a fair deal. Some Internet sites reveal the factory to dealer incentives that are currently available. The automotive industry was exposed be- cause too many people were getting ripped-off and were paying way more than they needed to. Maybe this has happened to you or someone you know. The same thing is going on in the flooring industry right now and flooring business is the next industry that needs to be exposed. There are a lot of unscrupulous retailers. When you walk into a retail carpet store they want you feel that their main goal is your satisfaction and they want to convince you that they are willing to go the extra mile to earn your busi- ness! They will provide everything you need— product knowl- edge, great selection, long warrantees, payment plans, no money down, great service after the sale, and no payments or interest for the first year! So how would you know if you were getting a good deal on your carpet? That’s the problem, it’s hard to tell a good dealer from a bad one! There is no carpet bluebook. There is no con- sumer flooring report. All you can do is shop around from one store to another to hopefully find another identical carpet to be able to compare prices. What about their offer of free pad with your purchase? What about the banner hanging outside that says, “wholesale to the public?” All these tactics and many more are used to lure you into coming into their store. Once you are inside the store they will use every trick in the book to get you to select one of their prod- ucts. There really is no free lunch, and anything offered for free will be charged to you one way or another, or else the free item is not worth having. A flooring salesperson will often ask you to feel how soft the

56 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide carpet is with your hand. This is what they mean when they say “it has a good hand.” Perhaps they will have you walk on a sam- ple of carpet with a sample of pad underneath it to show you how good it feels underfoot. These sales techniques are just like the test drive at the car dealership. If they can get you to imagine in your mind how great it would look and feel in your home then they know you will buy it.

• Be on guard! Don’t fall for sales gimmicks • Don’t be pressured into buying right now, take your time! • Take samples home to view under your own lighting. • Take carpet samples to other stores, compare prices with simi- lar products. Compare nylon to nylon, not Nylon to Polyester.

“Unless the salesperson asks you a lot of questions about your flooring needs in an honest attempt to help you select the right product to serve your needs, you can assume that they are inter- ested in nothing more than their next paycheck. In that case they will likely applaud any selection you might make regardless of it being a wise selection or not.”

How to determine flooring value and performance. A fundamental problem every consumer faces when purchasing floor coverings is that consumers are not provided a way to deter- mine the value of a flooring product beyond the literature or ad- vice offered by the salesperson, dealer or manufacturer of the flooring product. Everybody knows that when you apply for a loan to pur- chase a home it must be appraised to determine its current market value. The bank will not approve a loan on it if it is priced above current market value. The appraiser is usually an employee of the lending institution, not connected in any way to the people who are selling the home. This protects you as the buyer so you do not pay more than the home is worth and it also protects the lending institution from losing money in the event you default on the loan and they are forced to foreclose and sell the home. You are also able to access the current sales figures for similar homes sold in

57 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide the same vicinity. Similarly, when you go to finance a new or used car the bank can easily access information on the value of the vehicle as well as other information including its performance and safety ratings for cars of the same year and make. Publica- tions and other sources to determine the value and information are published by consumer watchdog agencies or governed by strict government safety rating standards, they are not provided by the car lot that is selling the vehicle or by the vehicle maker. This in- formation is provided to you, so you can make informed decisions about what type of automobile to purchase and its current market value. Floor coverings are one of the most expensive purchases that a homeowner can make. It is not unusual for consumers to spend thousands of dollars when carpeting their home. What informa- tion is available regarding your flooring purchases? The dealers, manufacturers, and chemical companies involved in the making of those products have put out all the information available to you regarding the facts about carpet or floor coverings!

You have to rely on the knowledge of retail salespeople to be honest and truthful about the products they sell. Where do you suppose the salespeople get most of their product knowledge and information? Directly from the manufacturers of flooring prod- ucts. Below are some questions that you need to have solid answers to before you buy new carpet. The answers to all these questions are found in this book.

• What makes one carpet better than another? • How will I know if I am getting a fair price on my carpet, pad and installation? • How will I know if my carpet has been installed correctly? • What do I do if I am not satisfied? Who do I call? • How do I take proper care of my carpet? • What cleaning method is best for my carpet?

58 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide How do I determine the durability of carpet? Carpet performance is determined by the length of time in which it is able to retain its new look and feel. There are seven factors that directly affect the performance and durability of carpet.

• What type of fiber it is made from- Nylon, Polyester, Ole- fin, Sorona or Wool are most common. Nylon outperforms all other fibers for durability. Sorona is the most stain resistant.. • Face weight- the number of ounces of fiber per square yard. The range is generally from 20 to 80, the higher the number the heavier the carpet. Just because a carpet has a heavier face weight, it does not mean that it is more durable. • Tuft twist- the number of times the tufts are twisted together in a 1-inch length. The higher the number the more durable the carpet will be. Look for twist of 5 or higher. • Density- the number of tufts per square inch. The more dense a carpet is the better. Look for 2000 rating or higher. • Padding– pad density is usually rated in pounds. The basic range is from 3 to 10 pounds. 6-pound padding is the residen- tial standard. Rubber and synthetic pad is rated in ounces. 6 pounds is about equal to 100 ounces. Pad is used to provide proper carpet support and for personal comfort. • Carpet maintenance- proper vacuuming and cleaning meth- ods used can significantly increase carpet performance and original look and feel. (More on page 94) • Anti-stain treatment- carpets that have been treated to resist stains will allow carpets to be maintained easier and may pro- long the performance and original appearance of the carpet.

The above information is enough to help most consumers under- stand the basics about carpet performance and durability. It is easy to buy a quality carpet when money is no object.

The hard part for many consumers is when they are hoping to buy the most durable product available that will meet their specific needs and stay within their budget.

59 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide As I see it, there are three main problems with the flooring indus- try that need to be addressed. Before you buy any flooring you should consider these issues carefully. • It is difficult for consumers to determine if they are buying the right product for their needs or lifestyle. • Consumers cannot easily compare similar products to deter- mine if the price is fair or reasonable. • There is not a simple method available for consumers to ver- ify that they are being charged for the proper amount of mate- rial required to complete the job.

Its all too common... a unsuspecting consumer, who is not well informed, buys the wrong carpet and padding for their needs and pays too much — paying for more material than they actually need. To top it all off, their new carpet is poorly installed and will not last nearly as long as it should.

When the flooring does not meet the expectations of the con- sumer, they must accept the problem and live with it, or pay more money to have something else installed. Retailers don’t generally refund the customers money if the flooring is not as durable as they had hoped. There are too many factors involved to substanti- ate a valid claim. In most cases, the consumer does not complain at all.

In addition to a standard 1-year warranty against manufactur- ing defects, many carpet manufacturers offer a wear warranty that provides a remedy in the event that there is more than 10% fiber loss within a 10-year period. The fact is, after 10 years a carpet may appear worn-out but it seldom loses more than 10% of its weight. For this reason, I believe that this type of warranty is not worth the paper it is written on, but it is better than no warranty.

Styles, colors, prices and fatigue It is often very time consuming and frustrating to go to a flooring dealer and wade through all the different colors, styles and samples. Consumers need a product that is within the con- 60 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide fines of their budget and choose a desirable style and color. Be- yond that, you must schedule a time to meet with the salesperson to measure the job and discuss the job variables like the extra charge for stairs and furniture moving.

Finally you get to discover the total price for the whole job. At this point many consumers will be feeling a little stressed.

Flooring retailers know that most consumers won’t get more than one or two estimates. They have developed ways to make it difficult for you to compare prices, like placing their own private labels on their carpet samples just to confuse you and to make it more difficult for you to shop around. When consumers buy flooring without getting several estimates it allows the carpet re- tailers to easily get away with overcharging.

Suggestions about dealing with retail salespeople:

• Tell every salesperson that you will be getting several esti- mates, even if you are not. • Never show, discuss or disclose with salespeople any details about other carpet bids you’ve received. • Ask the salesperson for a diagram that shows proposed seam locations and all room measurements. • Tell every salesperson submitting a bid that you want every detail itemized. You want to know exactly what they charge for every single item. (the carpet, pad, installation, extras) • Take your time, never commit to buying without getting at least two or more estimates.

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Why do some carpets shed and fuzz? Nylon is a synthetic fiber and outperforms all other fibers. It wears well, resists abrasion and is easy to clean. It comes in all styles and col- ors. What more can you ask for? This is the best wearing, most durable fiber available. But some nylon carpet shed and fuzz while others do not. Here’s why...

Continuous Filament verses Staple fiber construction Carpets made with a continuous filament nylon have either “BCF” (Bulked Continuous Filament) or “CFN” (Continuous Filament Nylon) shown on the sample label.

A Bulked Continuous Filament Nylon fiber is very desirable mainly because it virtually eliminates the shedding and fuzzing you get with a Staple Fiber.

Carpet made with Staple fibers uses short strands from 3-10 inches long. These short strands are twisted together and then spun into long threads of yarn. Consumers who buy a carpet made of staple fibers are often plagued with continual vacuuming to try to keep up with the shedding and fuzzing for up to a year after installation.

Consumers often report filling up a vacuum bag every time they vac- uum. This can be very frustrating, not to mention time consuming. Pets and small children often inhale or consume loose carpet fibers which cannot be a healthy thing to do.

Carpet retailers seldom educate consumers about the differences be- tween Continuous Filament and Staple Fibers and rarely address the possibility of Staple Fiber carpets shedding for months on end. It's only after the carpet is installed that consumers discover the truth and at that point there is no remedy offered by the retailer or the manufacturer. They just tell the consumer that it will eventually stop shedding and to be patient.

Why do they still use staple fibers? Because it allows carpet manufac- turers more flexibility when creating new carpet styles. Not all staple fibers continue to shed for months. It depends on the carpet style, how well the carpet is constructed and the length of fiber used. The shorter the fiber lengths used, the more prone to shedding the carpet will be.

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Choosing the Right Carpet Padding

There are many different types of pad available today in order to accommodate all the various types of carpeting. Here we will mainly discuss the types of pad that you will generally need when carpeting your home, office or rentals.

Urethane Foam pad Also called Prime. This type of pad is often very inexpensive and lightweight. If a retail store tries to give you free pad with your carpet purchase this is usually what they will try to give you. It can quickly become flattened in high traffic areas and is not a good choice for a residential setting. A heavier, more dense ure- thane padding is available but is much more expensive.

Rebond pad (bonded) This type of pad is most common in the residential setting. It is made from recycled polyurethane materials. It can come in many different colors. It is available everywhere, and in almost every thickness and density. This would be a good economical choice for your home or office. (this type of pad is rated in pounds per cubic foot.) Synthetic Hair pad or Fiber pad These types of pad are used primarily for Berber and commercial level loop carpets. It is very dense and not spongy at all. Made from recycled or shredded fabrics and fibers, it is designed to allow looped Berbers and commercial level loop carpets to wear well in heavy traffic situa- tions. Synthetic fiber cushion is measured by its weight in ounces per square yard and is used in moderate, heavy and extra heavy traffic ap- plications. Synthetic fiber pad is mold and mildew resistant.

Rubber pad (this type of pad is rated in ounces) There are two basic types of rubber pad. One is called waffle (ripples) and the other is a solid (flat) rubber pad. Rubber waffle pad looks like a tire tread. Of the two, I prefer the solid rubber pad but it is more expensive. Rubber pad usually comes only 4 feet wide and in my opinion, price verses quality, it is not as good a value as other less-expensive choices available.

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Retailer In-home Measuring There may come a time when you may decide to have a carpet salesperson come to your home and measure for carpet. Although I do not recommend that you rely solely on the measurements taken by carpet salespeople, you still may want to see what kind of measurements that they can come up with. It will certainly give you some numbers to compare to, and that is ultimately what you need to do to ensure that you are not being over-charged for mate- rials and/or labor.

In most cases, in-home measuring will end up with the salesper- son trying to get you to commit to buying your carpet from them. The salesperson may have a contract ready for you to sign, or ask you to pay a deposit at the conclusion of the in-home measuring.

It is in your best interests to take your time and not be rushed into signing anything, or making any commitments while the salesper- son is in your home. You should ask that the measurements and room diagrams they have taken (with carpet seam placements) be left with you for you to review and consider.

Any salesperson who is reluctant to give you the measurements, the total cost of materials and labor, and the room diagrams show- ing seam placements is not worthy of your business. You should not be pressured into buying until you have had sufficient time to verify the measurements, consider the proposed layout and seam placements, and seek at least one or two additional quotes from other businesses. Buying carpet is a major purchase, don’t rush it.

Some carpet retailers may require that you pay a deposit (as much as $100 or more) before they will come to your home and take measurements. If you choose to agree to this, you must be sure that you are not obligated to buy from them and that you can get a quick and full refund if you choose not to buy from them.

Remember to get several estimates!

64 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide How to Measure Your Rooms Before you begin shopping for carpet, you should know about how much carpet will you need to buy. In order to get a basic idea about how much you will need to spend on your carpet you will need to know about how much carpet you are go- ing to need. To do this you will need to use a tape measure and a calcu- lator. When measuring your rooms, be sure to measure the absolute widest and longest points of each room, including closet areas and a couple inches through the doorways. Again, this will only be an esti- mate, not exact amounts.

Square Foot (SF) or Square Yard (SY) ? Some retailers price their carpet by the square foot, others by the square yard. If you know your room measurements, you can calculate the square footage by multiplying the room width by the room length (in feet). Example: a room 10’6” feet wide by 12 ft long would be 120 square feet. (10.5 ft x 12 ft = 126 SF) Use decimals or round up to the nearest foot. Decimal guide – 3” = .25, 6” = .5, 9” = .75

Using the Room Yardage Table To make calculating your yardage easier I have provided a room yard- age table. Find the corresponding room width and length (in feet), and follow the proper column and rows till you line up your room measure- ments and discover the square yardage. Always round-up your room measurements to the nearest foot. Rooms must be considered at least 12 feet wide or you will not have enough material to complete the installa- tion. This chart is only for approximation so you can get a basic idea of how much carpet you are going to need. Input your room measure- ments and yardage totals into the room measurement forms starting on page 70. Do one room at a time, showing the square footage and the square yardage for each room. Then you can add all the totals together on page 80. Be sure to measure through the doorways and into closet areas. You The need to measure the abso- Your Room widest (example) lute longest length, and points the absolute widest points. This illustration shows an Measure the longest points example of this.

65 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

Selecting a Carpet Style within your Budget

Cost Rating: X–Lowest cost, XX–Medium cost, XXX-Highest cost

Berber Cost index X to XXX A loop pile design originally made of natural colored, bulky wool yarns in a woven construction. Today most Berbers are made primarily of bulky, loop pile Nylon or olefin yarns in a tufted construction. Plush Cost index X to XX A single-level cut-pile surface. The most popular style today. Textured Cost index X to XX Multi-level cut-pile surface, often using several colors of yarn. Helps hide footprints and vacuum marks. Frieze Cost index XX to XXX A cut pile carpet made of highly twisted yarns normally plied and heat-set. A curled yarn effect is achieved. Excellent durability results from the hard twist pile yarns Shag Cost index XX to XXX A deep pile texture with long, cut surface yarns defined as having a pile height greater than 3/4 inch. Popular in the 1970’s it is again regaining popularity. Saxony Cost index X to XXX A cut-pile carpet texture of heat-set plied yarns in a relatively dense, erect con- figuration, with well defined individual tuft tips. Saxony are denser and have more erect tufts than shags. Their tip definition is more pronounced than in singles plush, which is another dense cut-pile carpet style. Saxony have gener- ally displaced singles plush styles from the marketplace, and many retailers call their smoother finished Saxony “plushes”. Commercial loop Cost index X to XX Carpet style having a pile surface consisting of uncut loops. May be woven or tufted. Commercial loop is designed to handle high traffic applications. Used primarily in office buildings. Usually glued directly to the floor without pad. Commercial cut pile Cost index X to XXX A commercial quality single-level cut-pile surface. Designed to handle high traffic areas. Popular in offices, airports. Limited colors and styles available in low cost carpets. Usually glued directly to the floor without pad. Designer commercial carpet Cost index XX to XXXX An expensive high-quality commercial carpet specifically designed for high- traffic designer applications. Looped and cut pile versions, available in many beautiful patterns and styles. Usually glued directly to the floor without pad.

66

19 19 20 26 27.44 28.88 28 29.55 31.11 32 33.77 35.55 34 35.88 37.77 38 40.11 42.22 40 42.22 44.44 44 46.44 48.88 46 48.55 51.11 50 52.77 55.55 52 54.88 57.77 56 59.11 62.22 58 61.22 64.44 62 65.44 68.88 64 67.55 71.11 68 71.77 75.55 66 66 24 25.33 26.66 33 30 31.66 33.33 66 42 44.33 46.66 33 48 50.66 53.33 66 60 63.33 66.66 33 66 69.66 73.33 34 36 38 34 36 38 40 51 54 57 60 21.66 23.11 24.55 23.11 21.66 30.22 28.44 26.66 41.55 39.11 36.66 47.22 44.44 41.66 58.55 55.11 51.66 64.22 60.44 56.33 23.33 24.88 26.44 24.88 23.33 32.11 30.22 28.33 35.88 33.77 31.66 37.77 35.55 33.33 43.44 40.88 38.33 49.11 46.22 43.33 52.88 49.77 46.66 54.77 51.55 48.33 60.44 56.88 53.33 and width to calculate your total room yardage. and width .88 17.33 18.77 20.22 .88 20.22 17.33 18.77 24.88 .55 21.33 23.11 34.22 .88 29.33 31.77 38.88 .55 33.33 36.11 48.22 .88 41.33 44.77 52.88 .55 45.33 49.11 .11 18.66 20.22 21.77 21.77 .11 18.66 20.22 26.44 .77 22.66 24.55 29.55 .22 25.33 27.44 31.11 .44 26.66 28.88 35.77 .11 30.66 33.22 40.44 .77 34.66 37.55 43.55 .22 37.33 40.44 45.11 .44 38.66 41.88 49.77 .11 42.66 46.22 8 feet 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 16 17 18 15 14 feet 8 10 9 11 12 13

Room Yardage Table - Select your room length 11.55 13 11.55 13 14.44 15 14.22 16 17.77 19 19.55 22 24.44 26 22.22 25 27.77 30 27.55 31 34.44 37 30.22 34 37.77 41 10.66 12 13.33 14.66 16 17.33 18.66 20 21.33 22. 21.33 20 18.66 10.66 12 13.33 14.66 16 17.33 12.44 14 15.55 17 28. 26.66 25 23.33 13.33 15 16.66 18.33 20 21.66 15.11 17 18.88 20 32 30 28 16 18 20 22 24 26 16.88 19 21.11 23 17.77 20 22.22 24 39. 37.33 35 32.66 18.66 21 23.33 25.66 28 30.33 20.44 23 25.55 28 45. 42.66 40 37.33 21.33 24 26.66 29.33 32 34.66 23.11 26 28.88 31 48 45 42 24 27 30 33 36 39 24.88 28 31.11 34 25.77 29 32.22 35 56. 53.33 50 46.66 26.66 30 33.33 36.66 40 43.33 28.44 32 35.55 39 62. 58.66 55 51.33 29.33 33 36.66 40.33 44 47.66 Yardage Chart Chart Yardage 13 16 22 25 31 34 Width Width in feet 12 14 15 17 18 19 20 21 23 24 26 27 28 29 30 32 33

67 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide How To Measure Your Stairs Measuring for stairs can be a little bit tricky, but as long as your staircases are not unusual they shouldn’t be to tough to estimate. To make it easy I have created a handy chart to help you figure a

basic estimate of how much carpet you need to carpet your stairs. 1. What is your stair step and riser measurement? Most step and risers will measure about 18 inches total. In dia- gram # 1 below, it shows you where and how to measure the step

and riser. You need to calculate these measurements in inches.

2. Measure the width. How wide are your stairs? There are several types of stairs. Most stairs are about 3 feet wide. Some are much wider. Not all stairs are the same. Some stairs are open on one or both sides, and you will need to measure the wid- est points. Diagram # 2 below shows how to properly measure the width of boxed stairs. The yardage chart is for estimating only.

#1 Measure point to point #2

STEP

RISER Stair width measurement Step and Riser Measurement

Most staircases have about 12-14 steps. Some are split into two 6 or 7- step flights with a landing at the mid point. The Stair Yardage Chart will reveal how many yards you typically need for a standard 12-14 step staircase. If you have more or less steps than 14, you will have to take that into consideration, and it will not include any carpet you may need for a landing areas unless you include them in your stair measure- ments. Now that you have measured and have the answers to the two questions about your stairs, go to the next page and calculate how much carpet you will need and input your findings into the stair yardage (form # 1) on page 69.

68 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Stair yardage chart for standard 12-14 step stairs (Calculate your stair measurements using instructions from the previous page)

#2 Stair Width Measurement Approximate 24 ” 30 ” 36 ” 42 ” 48 ” 54 ” 60 ” #1 Step/Riser Measurement

16” 5 yd 6 7 8 9 11 11

18” 5 6 yd 7 9 10 11 12

20” 6 7 8 yd 10 11 12 13

22” 7 8 9 11 yd 12 13 14

24” 7 8 10 11 13 yd 15 16

26” 8 10 11 13 15 17 yd 19

Please remember, this is just an approximation and your ac- tual yardage could be more or less than shown above.

Form # 1 (Input this info on page 80-81) Approximate Your Stair Yardage (Input your results here from the above chart) Staircase #1

How many yards of carpet will you need? ______

Staircase #2 Using same carpet on these stairs? Y / N

How many yards of carpet will you need?

(If you have stair landings, include them with stair measurements and input the total yardage from the above chart on pages 80-81)

69 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Form #2 Your Room Measurements

These forms are designed to help you: ♦ Keep record of the measurements, square footage and yardage of each room, ♦ Remember any additional information, aspect or comments about the type, style or color of carpet you plan to select, ♦ And how much you plan to spend on carpet for each room.

Use the Room Yardage Table on page 67 to help you fill in the information in these forms.

How to fill out these forms: Here is a sample of how filled out form might look. You will have to fill out one form for each room that will need car- peting. Remember to write down any special information you want to remember in the E “Comments” area of the L form. The price range AMP you select can be for the S carpet only, or for a package price that in- cludes the carpet, pad- ding and installation charges. Carpet padding and a basic installation charges may add up to about $6 per yard or more.

70 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Your Room Measurements Measure each room you plan to carpet and enter the information here using the yardage figures from the charts on pages 67-69

Name of Room ______

Room width ______Room Length ______

Comments: Square footage ______

Square yardage ______

Price range $______to $ ______

Name of Room ______

Room width ______Room Length ______

Comments: Square footage ______

Square yardage ______

Price range $______to $ ______

Name of Room ______

Room width ______Room Length ______

Comments: Square footage ______

Square yardage ______

Price range $______to $ ______

71 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Your Room Measurements Measure each room you plan to carpet and enter the information here using the yardage figures from the charts on pages 67-69.

Name of Room ______

Room width ______Room Length ______

Comments: Square footage ______

Square yardage ______

Price range $______to $ ______

Name of Room ______

Room width ______Room Length ______

Comments: Square footage ______

Square yardage ______

Price range $______to $ ______

Name of Room ______

Room width ______Room Length ______

Comments: Square footage ______

Square yardage ______

Price range $______to $ ______

72 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Your Room Measurements Measure each room you plan to carpet and enter the information here using the yardage figures from the charts on pages 67-69.

Name of Room ______

Room width ______Room Length ______

Comments: Square footage ______

Square yardage ______

Price range $______to $ ______

Name of Room ______

Room width ______Room Length ______

Comments: Square footage ______

Square yardage ______

Price range $______to $ ______

Name of Room ______

Room width ______Room Length ______

Comments: Square footage ______

Square yardage ______

Price range $______to $ ______

73 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Your Room Measurements Measure each room you plan to carpet and enter the information here using the yardage figures from the charts on pages 67-69.

Name of Room ______

Room width ______Room Length ______

Comments: Square footage ______

Square yardage ______

Price range $______to $ ______

Name of Room ______

Room width ______Room Length ______

Comments: Square footage ______

Square yardage ______

Price range $______to $ ______

Now that you have measured and calculated about how much car- pet you need in each room. You can begin to determine how much total carpet you need and approximately what it is going to cost. Add up all your room yardage measurements if you are us- ing the same carpeting throughout your home, or figure it one room at a time. Combine your yardage totals if you will be using the same carpet throughout your home.

Use the forms starting on page 79 to add up all your measure- ments.

74 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Selecting the Right Carpet for You How long do you want your carpet to last? Here we discuss the quality and prices of carpet and pad you could select, and how long you might expect it to last.

1. Do you have small children or pets? If yes, be sure to read Article # 1 (page 93), If no, go to question # 2 2. Do you plan on buying a Berber style of carpet? If yes, be sure to read Article # 2 (page 93), If no, continue on...

How Long do you Want your Carpet to Last? It's not always practical to associate years of acceptable carpet wear with carpet prices. There are many variables to consider, such as: size of the home, traffic patterns, number in household, how you care for the carpet, tuft twist, density rating, pile height, etc. This is a general guide and is only designed to give you a ba- sic idea of what you might expect under moderate or average con- ditions. Email me if you have specific concerns or questions. Carpet that should last 3 to 5 years Carpet (Apartment or Builders Grade) Apartment grade Nylon Carpet can last 2-3 years if not cared for. The typical cost for apartment grade of carpet is about $8.50 per yard. The face-weight is usually about 26 ounces. Learn more at www. Landlordfloors.com. Pad A 3/8 inch, 3 or 4-pound rebond pad should cost about $1.50-$2.00 per yard retail. It would be a waste of money to spend any more than this on a rental unit.

Carpet price (average) $10.00 Padding cost $ 2.00 Installation $ 3.00 yard Easiest to install (see page 82) Total cost per yard (approximate) $15.00

75 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Carpet that should last 5 to 7 years Carpet An upgraded apartment or builders grade carpet of about 28 to 34 ounce face-weight should cost about $12 to $16 per yard. The carpet you select should be made from 100% continuous filament Nylon. (BCF) Pad You might want to invest in a 7/16 inch, 6-pound pad to help make your carpet last longer. Prices will range from $3.00 to $4.50 per yard.

Carpet price (average) $15.00 Padding cost $ 4.50 Installation $ 4.50 yard Easy to install (see page 82) Total cost per yard (approximate) $24.00

Carpet that should last 7 to 10 years Carpet Carpet that is expected to last this long must be cared for properly. An investment of $20 to $25 per yard is cus- tomary. Selecting a carpet made of Nylon will always be your best bet, but a carpet made from olefin can survive 10 years if cared for and the foot traffic is not heavy. Carpets in this range will have 34 to 40 ounce face weights. Density rating of 1800 or more

Pad A quality pad is required if you expect your carpet to last 10 years. A 1/4 to 7/16 inch, 6 to 8 pound rebond pad is sufficient. $3.50 to $5.50 per yard is common.

76 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

Carpet price (average) $22.50 Padding cost $ 4.50 Installation $ 5.00 yard Medium difficulty to install (see page 82) Total cost per yard (approximate) $32.00

Carpet that should last 10 to 15 years Carpet Spending $25 to $35 on carpeting will allow you to get many years of use from it, if it is properly cared for. You know that Nylon is the best fiber to choose, and select- ing fibers other than Nylon will reduce the longevity factor. Face-weights between 38 to 55 ounces. Density rating of 2000 or more. This is what a good quality Frieze will cost.

Pad You must select a quality pad to ensure that your carpet will survive for 15 years. Be prepared to spend as much as $4.50 per yard for a 7/16 inch, 8-pound padding.

Carpet price (average) $30.00 Padding cost $ 4.50 Installation $ 5.50 yard Medium difficulty to install (see page 82) Total cost per yard (approximate) $40.00

77 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Carpet that should last 15 years or more Top Quality Nylon Carpet Spending more than $35 per yard for carpeting will al- low you to get the best quality carpets made today. While you can spend up to $100 per yard or more for wool carpet, often times you will just be paying extra for the well-known brand name on the label. Wool carpets are considered to be the elite product of the carpet in- dustry and while wool makes a great carpet, but it also lacks some of the benefits that you could get from a top quality Nylon. One such benefit is abrasion resistance. Wool does not tolerate as much abrasion as Nylon. In a heavy traffic area, Nylon would prevail. Face-weights of 50 and above. Density of 2500 or more.

Pad Again, in order to expect 20 years of service from your carpet, spend the money and use the best padding possi- ble. Padding is the heartbeat of your carpet and when your pad fails, so will your carpet. The best padding may cost you $5.50 per yard or more, but it will be a great investment. My last bit of advice about pad: To get the best wear, don’t select a rubber waffle padding, the kind that looks like a tire tread. Instead, you should to go with a solid flat rubber pad, rebond or a synthetic fi- ber padding. What does the manufacturer suggest?

Nylon Carpet price (average) $42.00 Padding cost $ 5.50 Installation $ 6.50 yard Difficult to install (see page 82) Total cost per yard (approximate) $54.00 yd

78 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Form # 3 How Much Carpet Do You Need?

This form is designed to help you: ♦ Keep track of what type of carpet styles and colors you may initially have in mind for each room, ♦ Have a list of how much carpet you will need for each room, ♦ Where each color/style you select is intended to go, ♦ Have a good idea about how much carpet you need. ♦ Determine about how much the total cost will be.

How to fill out this form: Below is a sample of how a filled-out form might look. You may have to fill out more than one form if you are carpeting many rooms or may be using more than one style or color of carpet.

PLE SAM

79 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide 1. How much carpet you need Only include rooms you plan to have the exact same carpet. Use additional forms for rooms you plan to have a different style or color carpet.

Carpet Style ______Carpet Color ______(if you don’t know what style or color you might want, leave these blank)

This carpet selection will go into these areas and rooms: (From page 69) 1. Staircase # 1 Yardage ______2. Staircase # 2 Yardage ______

(From pages 71-74) 3. Name of room ______Yardage ______4. Name of room ______Yardage ______5. Name of room ______Yardage ______6. Name of room ______Yardage ______

To figure square footage multiply total yardage by 9

Total Combined Yardage ______

2. How Much Carpet You Need Only include rooms you plan to have the exact same carpet. Use additional forms for rooms you plan to have a different style or color carpet.

Carpet style ______Carpet color ______(if you don’t know yet what style or color you want leave these blank)

This carpet selection will go into these areas and rooms: (From page 69) 1. Staircase # 1 Yardage ______2. Staircase # 2 Yardage ______

(From pages 71-74) 3. Name of room ______Yardage ______4. Name of room ______Yardage ______5. Name of room ______Yardage ______6. Name of room ______Yardage ______

To figure total square footage multiply total yardage by 9 Total Combined Yardage ______

80 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide 3. How much carpet you need Only include rooms you plan to have the exact same carpet. Use additional forms for rooms you plan to have a different style or color carpet.

Carpet Style ______Carpet Color ______(if you don’t know what style or color you might want, leave these blank)

This carpet selection will go into these areas and rooms: (From page 69) 1. Staircase # 1 Yardage ______2. Staircase # 2 Yardage ______

(From pages 71-74) 3. Name of room ______Yardage ______4. Name of room ______Yardage ______5. Name of room ______Yardage ______6. Name of room ______Yardage ______

To figure square footage multiply total yardage by 9

Total Combined Yardage ______

4. How Much Carpet You Need Only include rooms you plan to have the exact same carpet. Use additional forms for rooms you plan to have a different style or color carpet.

Carpet style ______Carpet color ______(if you don’t know yet what style or color you want leave these blank)

This carpet selection will go into these areas and rooms: (From page 69) 1. Staircase # 1 Yardage ______2. Staircase # 2 Yardage ______

(From pages 71-74) 3. Name of room ______Yardage ______4. Name of room ______Yardage ______5. Name of room ______Yardage ______6. Name of room ______Yardage ______

To figure total square footage multiply total yardage by 9 Total Combined Yardage ______

81 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

Carpet Installation Fees and Charges

Residential carpet installation prices vary widely in the United States but the highest prices are in the Northeast- ern states, and in the Northwest. Lowest prices are in Southern California, Southern Texas and Southern Flor- ida. In Miami, Florida, residential installation prices are as low as $2.00-3.50 per yard. In Portland, Oregon the residential prices are currently between $3.50-5.50 per yard. Berber carpets command a higher installation charge usually adding an additional $1.00-$2.00 per yard due to the increased difficulty. You can call around to several installers in your area to get an idea of the going rate where you live. Don’t forget to ask about additional charges and fees. Extra charges may be imposed for stairs, furniture moving, delivering the carpet, floor preparation, removing old carpet and pad, dump fees, sealing floors, transition metals, measuring, etc.

Difficult or Time Consuming Carpet Installations Carpet installers may charge you more or less depending on the level of difficulty to install your particular grade of carpet or by the degree of difficulty of your job layout. Prices charged to install apartment carpet are the lowest because it is the easiest to install. Installing heavy Berber carpets are more expensive because they are difficult to handle and harder to cut. Carpets in excess of 50-ounces (face-weight) are more difficult to install and there may be an additional charge. Homes with unusual wall an- gles, multiple levels, pie-shaped stairs, custom borders, detailed upholstery or extensive seam work can signifi- cantly increase the cost of installation. 82 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

Common extra fees and charges. Place a check mark next to each listed category you may need to ask the retailer or installer about.

Stairs- depending on what type of stairs you have will determine the additional price charged per stair. It can be range from $4.00 for each "waterfall stair" to as much as $10 for each “double-wrapped” stair.

Furniture moving- the additional charge could be as much as $50 per hour per person.

Delivering the carpet- Most installers do not charge to deliver your carpet locally, but some do. Anywhere from $25 to $75 depending on the distance traveled and the individual installer.

Floor preparation- As much as $50 per hour to fix, re- pair or prepare the area for installation. this would in- clude filling holes, leveling, repairing damaged or dry- rotted areas, screwing down squeaky floors, etc.

Removing old carpets and pads- Extra charges from $1.00 -$2.00 per yard are customary. You might want to remove the old carpet and pad yourself if you want to save some money. Make sure the floors are clear of all debris, and swept clean before the installers arrive. You don’t need to remove pad staples.

Disposal fees- Some installers charge up to $50 for having to haul away your old carpet & pad to a landfill. It’s time consuming and dump fees are rising.

83 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Sealing floors- If your floors have been exposed to pet urine you may want to have your floors sealed to reduce the possibility of lingering odors. Installers can "paint" your floors with a product that is quite ef- fective in eliminating the problem. Charges vary and depend on the area to be treated. The sealer costs about $20 per gallon. Installers will want at least $50-$100 per gallon to apply it. Some sealers have toxic fumes while drying and a respirator is required.

Transition metals– Some installers charge $1.00 to $3.00 per foot to install new transition metals, de- pending on the type you specify. Basic metals are ei- ther gold or silver and $1-$3 per foot is customary. Some installers do not charge for metal, but figure it into the overall price they charge for installation.

Measuring- I would not generally trust the accuracy of measurements taken by a retail carpet salesperson, I would rather trust the measurements of a profes- sional carpet installer. You might have to pay an in- staller to measure you home for carpet. Some charge $30.00-$60.00 for this service. Many will forgo the fee if you hire them to install your carpet. It is always a good Idea to get a second opinion and verify that the measurements taken for your home are accurate when dealing with a carpet retailer.

There may be other fees and charges depending on your unique situation. Be sure to ask the salesperson what other fees may apply. Get additional fee schedules from the carpet retailer in writing if possible.

84 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

Form # 4 Preliminary Carpet Selection

Take this shopping guide with you when you go shop- ping for carpet. While you are at the carpet store, fill out one Preliminary Carpet Selection form for each carpet you find that interests you. The salesperson can help you by providing answers to your questions. When you are finished shopping at each store, tell the salesperson that you would like to check-out the carpet samples that in- terest you and take them home to consider. Be sure that you have completely filled-out one form for each car- pet sample you take home with you. You will then have all the information you need to help you make a well- informed and educated decision.

This form is designed to help you:

♦ Keep record of each potential carpet selection, style and color you may be considering. ♦ Keep record of the specific material and labor costs, including the carpet, carpet padding and basic instal- lation, for each carpet you are considering. ♦ Know what grade of carpet padding is included if the padding is part of a package deal, or what the manu- facturer recommends for each carpet you consider. ♦ Know what the total cost per square yard and/or square foot will be, to have each specific carpet in- stalled in your home.

85 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide How to fill out this form: Below is a sample of how a filled out form might look. You may have to fill out several forms as needed if:

♦ You are selecting different carpeting in several rooms or ♦ May be using more than one type or color of carpet or ♦ Would like to consider several styles or colors and can’t quite make up your mind which one to select! Take your time!

LE SAMP

86 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Preliminary Carpet Selection # 1 1. Brand ______Style ______Color # ______Face-weight ______Ounces

Carpet Style: Plush, Textured, Saxony, Frieze, Berber, Shag

Type of Fiber: Nylon Olefin/Polypropylene Polyester/P.E.T. Sorona

2. Carpet Price Per square Yard = $ ______SY OR Per square Foot = $ ______SF

Does this price include Padding? No Yes Does this price include Installation? No Yes Describe the required pad;

Padding type: Rebond, Foam, Rubber, Fiber Thickness: 1/4” 3/8” 7/16” 1/2” Density rating: # Pounds ______, OR Ounces ______

3. Pad Cost (for pad described above) Per square yard = $ ______SY OR Per square foot = $ ______SF 4. Installation Charges Per square yard = $ ______SY OR Per square foot = $ ______SF

5. Total Price Per Square Yard $______OR Total Price Per Square Foot $______

87 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Preliminary Carpet Selection # 2 1. Brand ______Style ______Color # ______Face-weight ______Ounces

Carpet Style: Plush, Textured, Saxony, Frieze, Berber, Shag

Type of Fiber: Nylon Olefin/Polypropylene Polyester/P.E.T. Sorona

2. Carpet Price Per square Yard = $ ______SY OR Per square Foot = $ ______SF

Does this price include Padding? No Yes Does this price include Installation? No Yes Describe the required pad;

Padding type: Rebond, Foam, Rubber, Fiber Thickness: 1/4” 3/8” 7/16” 1/2” Density rating: # Pounds ______, OR Ounces ______

3. Pad Cost (for pad described above) Per square yard = $ ______SY OR Per square foot = $ ______SF 4. Installation Charges Per square yard = $ ______SY OR Per square foot = $ ______SF

5. Total Price Per Square Yard $______OR Total Price Per Square Foot $______

88 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Preliminary Carpet Selection # 3 1. Brand ______Style ______Color # ______Face-weight ______Ounces

Carpet Style: Plush, Textured, Saxony, Frieze, Berber, Shag

Type of Fiber: Nylon Olefin/Polypropylene Polyester/P.E.T. Sorona

2. Carpet Price Per square Yard = $ ______SY OR Per square Foot = $ ______SF

Does this price include Padding? No Yes Does this price include Installation? No Yes Describe the required pad;

Padding type: Rebond, Foam, Rubber, Fiber Thickness: 1/4” 3/8” 7/16” 1/2” Density rating: # Pounds ______, OR Ounces ______

3. Pad Cost (for pad described above) Per square yard = $ ______SY OR Per square foot = $ ______SF 4. Installation Charges Per square yard = $ ______SY OR Per square foot = $ ______SF

5. Total Price Per Square Yard $______OR Total Price Per Square Foot $______

89 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Preliminary Carpet Selection # 4 1. Brand ______Style ______Color # ______Face-weight ______Ounces

Carpet Style: Plush, Textured, Saxony, Frieze, Berber, Shag

Type of Fiber: Nylon Olefin/Polypropylene Polyester/P.E.T. Sorona

2. Carpet Price Per square Yard = $ ______SY OR Per square Foot = $ ______SF

Does this price include Padding? No Yes Does this price include Installation? No Yes Describe the required pad;

Padding type: Rebond, Foam, Rubber, Fiber Thickness: 1/4” 3/8” 7/16” 1/2” Density rating: # Pounds ______, OR Ounces ______

3. Pad Cost (for pad described above) Per square yard = $ ______SY OR Per square foot = $ ______SF 4. Installation Charges Per square yard = $ ______SY OR Per square foot = $ ______SF

5. Total Price Per Square Yard $______OR Total Price Per Square Foot $______

90 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Preliminary Carpet Selection # 5 1. Brand ______Style ______Color # ______Face-weight ______Ounces

Carpet Style: Plush, Textured, Saxony, Frieze, Berber, Shag

Type of Fiber: Nylon Olefin/Polypropylene Polyester/P.E.T. Sorona

2. Carpet Price Per square Yard = $ ______SY OR Per square Foot = $ ______SF

Does this price include Padding? No Yes Does this price include Installation? No Yes Describe the required pad;

Padding type: Rebond, Foam, Rubber, Fiber Thickness: 1/4” 3/8” 7/16” 1/2” Density rating: # Pounds ______, OR Ounces ______

3. Pad Cost (for pad described above) Per square yard = $ ______SY OR Per square foot = $ ______SF 4. Installation Charges Per square yard = $ ______SY OR Per square foot = $ ______SF

5. Total Price Per Square Yard $______OR Total Price Per Square Foot $______

91 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Preliminary Carpet Selection # 6 1. Brand ______Style ______Color # ______Face-weight ______Ounces

Carpet Style: Plush, Textured, Saxony, Frieze, Berber, Shag

Type of Fiber: Nylon Olefin/Polypropylene Polyester/P.E.T. Sorona

2. Carpet Price Per square Yard = $ ______SY OR Per square Foot = $ ______SF

Does this price include Padding? No Yes Does this price include Installation? No Yes Describe the required pad;

Padding type: Rebond, Foam, Rubber, Fiber Thickness: 1/4” 3/8” 7/16” 1/2” Density rating: # Pounds ______, OR Ounces ______

3. Pad Cost (for pad described above) Per square yard = $ ______SY OR Per square foot = $ ______SF 4. Installation Charges Per square yard = $ ______SY OR Per square foot = $ ______SF

5. Total Price Per Square Yard $______OR Total Price Per Square Foot $______

92 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Special Article 1: If you have small children and/or pets. If you have small children or pets you may not want to spend a lot on carpet and pad for your home. You could easily select a carpet from about $8 to $12 per yard and get 4 to 8 years of use from it. Spending a lot on padding is un- necessary for a life-span of this length. Pets that may have accidents will ruin carpet and padding quickly. Spend no more than $2.50 on pad in this situation. Children are good at wearing out carpets and for spilling things frequently. You might not want to spend a fortune on carpet to find that it has become worn out, or ruined prematurely. After your children are older you may decide to replace your carpet with something better, or you may want to put a better carpet in your bedroom and lesser quality carpet in the kids areas right now. Never select a Berber carpet when you have small children and/or cats or other rambunctious pets.

Special Article 2: If you are considering Berber carpets There are several things you need to know about Berber carpeting before you decide to have it in your home. Berber carpet is constructed by forming loops of tufts from a single strand. Some Berbers have large loops, others have smaller loops. If one of these loops should become snagged or pulled, the tufts could come loose and cause the strand to come out of the carpet. It is similar to the effect of running a pair of women’s nylon stockings. This type of carpet damage is difficult and expensive to repair. The size of the loops will have a dramatic effect on the appearance of your car- pet over a period of time. The larger the loops, the faster your carpet will ap- pear to be worn out. The problem is that most Berbers are made of Olefin, a strong fiber, but not very resilient. When a loop is stepped on it causes the loop to crush, fall over and collapse over time. Once the loop has been flattened, little can be done to restore the original upright position of the loop. This causes the carpet to appear worn out even though it is not. Smaller loops do not flatten as quickly or easily and can potentially retain the original new ap- pearance for a much longer period of time.

Installing Berber carpeting will cost more than regular carpets. Carpet in- stallers charge about $1.00 to 2.00 more per yard to install Berber Carpet than for other types of carpet. Berbers are more difficult to seam together and more difficult to cut and handle.

Padding for Berbers must be very dense and thin. For most, a 1/4 inch, 8 pound minimum pad is required. This grade of pad may cost as much as $3 to $5.50 per yard or more, depending on the type and style of pad you select. Us- ing the wrong padding thickness or density may cause wrinkles to develop or other problems and will void the manufacturers warranty .

93 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

Proper Care for Your Carpet Making sure that your carpet lasts as long as it should requires that you take proper care of it. That basically translates into regular cleaning and vacuuming. Vacuuming and cleaning: The general rule of thumb is to vacuum your carpet as many times per week as you have people living in the home. That means if you are a family of four, you should be vacuuming at least four times per week. Dirt and dust that is allowed to accumulate in and on your carpet is abrasive and will cause premature wearing and deterioration of your carpet. That is why it is important to keep your carpets clean and fre- quently vacuumed. I do not recommend that you clean your carpets us- ing a store rented steam system. I suggest you hire a professional carpet cleaner.

Carpet Cleaning Methods: A lot of controversy has revolved around the various types of carpet cleaning methods available today and which type is the best method to use. I have researched this for many years and I firmly believe that hot- water extraction (steam cleaning) is the most damaging method to car- pets today because of improperly trained carpet cleaners. They simply get the carpet too wet. Therefore, I believe that the dry-chemical method is less damaging to carpets overall and therefore has my per- sonal vote as the preferred method. Yes, hot water extraction is better for removing dirt, but too much hot water can cause the carpet backing to come apart, especially with Berbers. The real problem is over- wetting the carpet and pad. Not only can it cause mold and mildew to form, but too much water may ruin the carpet backing and cause your carpet to develop wrinkles,. Over-wetting your carpets can cost you thousands in carpet replacement and it can be difficult to convince a carpet cleaning company to accept responsibility for damaging your carpets by over-wetting. Carpet cleaning is a topic so vast and impor- tant, you should get specific professional advice if you have any ques- tions beyond what I have to say here.

A final note, If you don’t follow the carpet manufacturers guidelines for carpet maintenance you will void your carpet warranty. Direct sun- light will cause all carpets to fade and care should be taken to draw the blinds to prevent this from occurring. Never use bleach, regardless of what you may hear. If you have any carpet questions, please email me!

94 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

My Advice in a Nutshell Buying new carpet is supposed to be exciting and a fun and en- joyable experience. Part of that fun is selecting a carpet style and color that you like. While this ebook has informed you as to the basic carpet styles available today, carpet manufacturers are continually changing, modifying and creating new types of carpet styles for you to choose from. I suggest that you take the time to visit your local family-owned carpet retailers and see which current styles appeal to you. Beyond fi- ber choice and construction quality characteristics that you have learned in this guide, it will then narrow just down to a matter of style preference, and there is no reason why you shouldn’t pick out a style that you like as long as it is a quality carpet at a decent price.

When it comes to carpet fibers, there are only a five carpet fibers to choose from: Nylon, Polyester, Olefin (polypropylene), Sorona, (Smartstrand) and wool. You need to be very careful not to be per- suaded into buying a “new or improved” carpet fiber. Nylon is the best fiber to make carpet with and all other fibers fall short. Some salespeo- ple may suggest to you that P.E.T. Polyester is now better than before and somehow new and improved through some miraculous process. They want you to buy into the possibility that polyester is now a long- lasting and durable carpet! Do not fall for these lies. You do not want to be among the masses to buy a newfangled fiber only to discover that those great claims are not nearly as great as you were told. Trust me!

Carpet padding is the heartbeat of your carpet and installing a good quality padding is important if you want your carpet to last as long as possible. Even if you plan on spending only a small amount on carpet- ing, plan on installing the best padding you can afford, unless you have a serious problem with pet accidents. Don’t buy odor or moisture bar- rier pads if you have naughty pets. They do not work. It will just cost you more and it won’t help at all. There is no good reason to spend more on a newfangled specialty pad. A normal rebond pad will do just fine.

Proper Carpet installation is very important and you need to be sure to hire qualified carpet installers. Be sure they are licensed bonded and insured if it is a requirement in your state. Check some references too. All carpet should be installed with a power-stretcher. Visit my website for a free carpet installation inspection form at www.howtobuycarpet. com. ©2009 Alan J Fletcher, All Rights Reserved. 95 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide

What Features Are You Looking For in a Carpet?

Easy to Clean If a carpet is considered to be easy to clean it means that dirt and stains are easily removed. Olefin fibers are naturally oily and tend to attract dirt. Even after a good cleaning carpets made with Ole- fin soon become dingy as the inherent oils again attract dirt. So- rona is very easy to clean and is a durable fiber. Nylon is not quite as easy to clean as Sorona but is a more resilient fiber. Ny- lon resists matting and crushing better than all other fibers and will look like new longer. P.E.T. Polyester and Polyester fibers are also easy to clean and resist staining but are prone to matting and crushing.

Durable If you want your carpet to last a long time you need a carpet that is durable. This means it is capable of tolerating your level of foot traffic in your home.

Nylon is the most resilient fiber which means it resists matting and crushing better than any other fiber. This holds true as long as you are not choosing a “soft” nylon style (like Tactesse®, Ca- ress® or Lisse’®) where they make the fiber denier thinner to achieve a softer feel. Making the fiber denier thinner compro- mises the resiliency to some degree. (See Fiber Denier below)

Nylon and Sorona® (PTT) are both very durable fibers and will yield the best long term results as long as you select a grade (or Quality) that can tolerate your level of foot traffic in your home. Olefin (polypropylene) is very durable in low pile carpets or com- mercial grade carpet styles including level loop and cut pile styles.

96 P.E.T. Polyester and Polyester Pitfalls Don’t be fooled by claims that PET polyester and Polyester fibers are as durable and as resilient as nylon. Yes, they do feel very soft; however, Polyester fibers are not very resilient which makes them prone to matting and crushing, and no matter what the car- pet salesperson may tell you, or what the manufacturer’s brochure may say, this is the inherent nature of the polyester fiber.

If you doubt what I say, just read their complete carpet warranty to find that they do not cover matting and crushing of the carpet pile. Carpet manufacturers are always trying to come up with new and improved ways to promote and increase sales of these cheap- to-manufacture fibers by reconfiguring the manufacturing proc- ess. They have only had limited success in the past 60 years.

What is Fiber Denier? Fiber Denier is the diameter or thickness of the fiber strand. Fi- ber denier is easiest understood if you have ever gone fishing and used a nylon filament fishing line. The thicker the line is, the stronger it is. The thicker it is the more resilient it is. When fish- ing for Trout most fishermen use a 4 to 6-pound test line. For big- ger fish like Steelhead or Salmon, a thicker strand, perhaps a 10 or 12-pound nylon test line would be stronger and also more resil- ient. Carpet fibers are made in the same way, some thicker some thinner. Some carpet fibers are made thinner to make the carpet pile feel softer to the touch, but in doing so, I believe some of the strength, durability or resiliency may be sacrificed.

Therefore I believe carpets made with a “standard” Denier Nylon fiber will be more durable and more resilient than a carpet made with a thinner strand as may be used in today's "soft” nylon styles (like Tactesse®, Caress® or Lisse’® to name a few).

Best Value for Your Money Many Homeowners tell me that they want to get the absolute best carpet value for their money. But I am not sure they know quite what that means. Some folks don’t want to spend hardly anything

97 for their carpet and what they end up buying doesn’t last more than a few years at best. That’s certainly not getting the best value for their money! Other homeowners might spend a ton of money to buy the absolute highest quality carpet available and yet end up unhappy if the carpet texture or color doesn’t exactly match their furniture. I think the definition of “The best value for the money” means that you are buying a good quality carpet that is capable of meeting or exceeding your personal needs, goals, lifestyle and budget – and avoiding scams!

If you want a Thick Cushy Carpet If you want a carpet to feel super cushy underfoot you are likely looking for a carpet with a high face-weight and a pile height above 3/4” of an inch. You may also want to use a thick padding with a medium density such as a ½” thickness and a 5 to 6-pound density rating. What type of pad to use? Lowest cost: Recycled Rebond.

What you need to know:

Carpet: Pile heights above ¾” high are more prone to matting and crushing especially in high traffic areas and on stairs. For better durability and longer wear keep the pile height at ¾” or less.

Padding: The problem with going with a super thick pad with a medium density is that your carpet might lose its stretch and de- velop wrinkles. If this happens you will need to have a carpet layer re-stretch your carpet. This can cost hundreds of dollars.

A smarter way to go is to use a 6 to 8 pound density rebond pad with a maximum thickness of 7/16”. Berbers require a thinner padding to keep your warranty in force.

Soft to the Touch If you want a soft carpet, you need to know what it is that you will be sacrificing. Soft carpets are designed, not the norm. That is unless you can afford to buy a wool carpet. Wool carpets are

98 naturally soft because they are a natural fiber, the wool of sheep. Some wool carpets are softer than others, the softer the fiber the more costly the carpet will be. That is the industry norm.

With Nylon and Sorona fibers, the same holds true, the softer the fiber, the more costly the carpet will be. The problem is, as the fiber is made or extruded thinner, the less resilient the fiber be- comes. This means that the softer fibers are not as durable as a standard denier nylon fiber. Sorona is also very soft and it resists stains better than any other fiber. (also called Smartstrand or PTT)

Polyester and P.E.T. Polyester fibers are also soft to the touch but these fibers are not nearly as durable as Nylon or Sorona. When a carpet pile feels soft to the touch, the popular term in the carpet industry is to say that it has a “soft hand”. When you drag your hand across the surface of the carpet and it feels very soft and luxurious to the touch, it is then described as having a “soft hand”. Polyester is less expensive than Nylon or Sorona but does not last as long and is prone to matting and crushing.

A Thicker Pile A thick pile is really just a carpet with a tall pile height of 3/4” or more. If you think you want to buy a carpet with a thick pile, you have to decide what that really means to you! To some it means having a thick & soft luxurious feel underfoot so that when you walk barefoot on it your foot sinks deep into the carpet pile and you can feel the soft carpet fibers ooze between each of your toes.

Having a carpet with a thick pile is fun to roll around on and romp around on with the kids without fear of a concussion, but only you can decide why having a thick pile is important to you.

To others, a thick pile may mean having a carpet that shows every footprint & vacuum mark, is hard to clean up accidents and spills and is difficult to vacuum. It is also more difficult to walk on, making your legs more tired, it’s kind of like walking on sand.

99 Having a thicker pile does not mean that your carpet will last longer, in fact it will most likely mat down and crush in heavy traffic areas faster than would a shorter pile carpet of the same construction. If you want a thicker pile you need to look at car- pets that have a tall pile height.

Pile Height is not the same as Pile Density. Pile Density is an- other crucial factor in determining how long a carpet might last under ordinary circumstances. Other important factors to consider are Fiber Type, Face Weight and Tuft Twist. It’s the right com- bination of all these construction specifications that will ulti- mately determine if your new carpet is designed to last as long as you anticipate and be able to withstand your level of foot traffic.

Easy to Clean / Stain Resistance Everyone wants their carpet to be 100% stain proof but no carpet actually is. Virtually all carpets made today have some type of stain resistance applied or manufactured into the carpet fiber. The type of chemical treatments used and exactly how they are ap- plied vary. Topically applied stain repellants tend to wear off over time from normal wear & tear and regular cleanings and may need to be reapplied every few years. Your carpet cleaning com- pany can do this for you.

Scotchgard® is one of the more commonly known brand names in stain repellants applied topically to many carpets. Basically it is a liquid spray applied to the surface of the carpet pile that once dry will help repel most common foods and liquids that might be accidentally spilled on your carpet. It works very well!

R2X® claims to offer a more complete protection from the top to the bottom of the fiber. Spills that reach the base of the pile don't penetrate and wick back to the top as they might with topically applied solutions. Shaw claims the effectiveness of R2X works very well with carpets made of Olefin (polypropylene) as it is a well-known that some carpets made with the Olefin fiber have an inherent tendency to attract dirt and look dingy when soiled.

100 Stainmaster® is not a type of anti-stain treatment applied to the carpet surface. Today Stainmaster is a brand of carpet that fea- tures the Teflon anti-stain technology. This is not a topically ap- plied spray; Stainmaster carpets have a built-in stain resistant fi- ber that resists stains from the inside out! I think this is the best stain resistant carpet on the market.

Sorona® (or Smartstrand®) is a relatively new carpet fiber that claims to be the most stain resistant of all carpet fibers on the market today. It is a polymer derived from corn and while I was a bit skeptical at first, I like this product and recommend it to homeowners who are most concerned with having a carpet that resists stains and cleans easily. I still think Nylon is more durable.

Pet Urine Pet urine accidents fall into a different category and while a stain repellant like Scotchgard will certainly help with stain removal for prompt cleanups, most pet urine is caustic and can quickly de- feat any benefits provided from a topically applied anti-stain treatment.

Best Carpet for Pets If you have pets, then you might be concerned about the negative effects that your beloved pets may have upon your new carpet or flooring. You are wise to be concerned because some pets can easily damage even the most durable carpets and flooring prod- ucts. The main concern is urine accidents; dog and cat urine is very difficult to remove and repeated accidents are almost impos- sible to deal with effectively. A dense, short napped cut-pile car- pet would be easiest to clean as wet accidents tend to bead up and would be less likely to quickly penetrate deep into the pile – giv- ing you more time to clean it up. It’s also easier to vacuum up pet hair with a dense, short napped carpet.

The second main concern is damage from their claws and toe- nails. Active dogs and cats can easily cause major damage to car- pets. If you have active pets you might want to limit your losses

101 by reducing the amount you spend on new carpet. Looped Berber styles can snag easily and is not a good choice. A better choice would be a Frieze, Textured Plush or Sculptured (hi-low) styles.

Anti Static On cold days it’s common to get a small static shock from touch- ing metal objects. Most carpets today have a built-in anti-static treatment to help eliminate those annoying shocks! Most anti- static treatments are topically applied to the carpet surface and gradually wear off over time. Stainmaster carpets do not use topi- cally applied anti-static treatments and they do not wash off or wear off.

Best Carpet for the Elderly Thick carpets with low density padding make it very difficult for anyone who has a hard time walking or those who use a walker or wheelchair. Residential carpet and padding is not well suited for this application and will wear out or stretch out quickly. The best carpet for this situation would be a low pile type, perhaps a com- mercial quality for the longest wear. A low cut-pile or a cut & loop style would be a good choice. The main thing is that it has a low profile and a very dense pile.

Without Pad You might want to select a commercial grade carpet and glue it down to the floor without using any padding at all. This is what they do in schools, office buildings and doctor’s offices and it yields the best results.

With Pad A thin and very dense padding (1/4“) could be used if you must have a softer feel underfoot but it will likely reduce the longevity of the carpet by a significant amount. In this case, the padding would need to be completely glued to the floor to prevent it from creeping or sliding under the carpet. A power stretcher must be used to install the carpet.

102 Best Carpet for my home office Office chair wheels ruin more carpet than any other single cause. Most office chairs have at least four or five sets of rolling wheels that can easily ruin any carpet within a short few months if there is no external protection provided.

It is for this reason that I suggest most home office applications use a commercial grade carpet, glued directly to the floor without padding and use a protective plastic chair mat which is de- signed to help protect carpet and allow the office chair to roll around smoothly and easily without causing major damage to the carpet.

Not all plastic chair mats are created equal; some are much better quality than others. Some crack easily and fall apart offering little or short term protection or wear out quickly. More expensive plastic chair mats can last for years and provide ultimate protec- tion and while more costly, are well worth the extra expense.

No matter what you do, you must not use any rolling chair di- rectly on top of any carpet without some form of protection or you will quickly suffer severe carpet damage. This type of dam- age is not covered under any carpet manufacturer’s warranty and is impossible to repair.

No vacuum or footprint marks Some carpet shows every footprint and vacuum mark and there is nothing you can do to prevent it. If you want a carpet that shows limited vacuum marks and footprints you might want to consider these styles:

∗ Textured Plush ∗ Frieze ∗ Shag ∗ Berber ∗ Cut Berber (California Berber) ∗ Cut and Loop ∗ Sculptured

103 Best Selection Carpets are made in almost every configuration imaginable. Some are thick and plush, some are thin and dense. There are literally tens of thousands of different carpet styles and colors to choose from. But no one carpet dealer is capable of carrying all the avail- able styles. It would take a building larger than ten football fields to house all the different carpet styles, colors and brands available today. But you want a large selection to choose from!

There are thousands of carpet styles available today that range from $6 per yard to $106 per yard. No one carpet dealer can carry them all and even if they could, they wouldn’t want to. Carpets displayed in the local carpet dealer’s showroom are aimed to cater to the needs and budget of the local clientele.

If a dealer is located in a ritzy upscale area then they will carry mostly higher priced carpets. If the dealer is located in an area with mostly apartments and rental properties then the dealer will display carpets that meet the needs of local landlords and property manag- ers. Most homeowners fall somewhere in between the most expen- sive and the least expensive! You have options:

Some dealers have dozens of rolls of carpet on the showroom floor while other dealers have mostly manufacturer’s samples for you view and order from. If you want the best carpet selection possible you need to visit a carpet dealer that caters to homeowners like you with plenty of carpet samples in your price range. Call ahead and ask if you are not sure. Shop around and take your time!

Knowledgeable salespeople It’s no fun dealing with an inexperienced or newly hired salesper- son. They won’t have all the right answers to your questions or even worse, they might give you inaccurate or incomplete product information. Fast-talking salespeople might try to pressure you into buying right now, or use sneaky sales tactics to convince you to buy a product that does not meet your needs, goals or budget.

104 When shopping for new carpet you don’t want to rely solely on the word or advice of any salesperson. I say this because almost every carpet salesperson you encounter will tell you something different and you will end up totally confused after talking to just two or three salespeople. Instead, I suggest you do your carpet homework before you start shopping.

Accurate Measuring When you buy new carpet for your home the amount you ulti- mately pay is determined by the amount of material it requires to complete the job. One of the easiest ways to overpay for carpet, padding and installation is by improper measuring.

This can happen by accident if the salesperson measuring your home is incompetent, or it can happen on purpose if the salesper- son measuring your home is unscrupulous.

Over-paying for materials is very common because most home- owners do not know how to measure for carpet. You should not attempt to measure your home for carpet unless you are a profes- sional. If you want to verify that the salesperson’s measurements are accurate you should hire a qualified carpet installer to meas- ure your home for you.

If not enough material is ordered then there will not be enough carpet to finish the job. In this case, more carpet would need to be ordered.

In some cases the carpet mill may not have any more of the exact same carpet available. This can be a very costly mistake for the dealer who sold you the carpet and their salesperson who meas- ured your home.

Some carpet salespeople are so afraid of not ordering enough ma- terial that they automatically add-on an extra amount of material just to be safe. This causes you to pay for more material than you actually need and protects the salesperson from having to be

105 responsible for measuring short.

The salesperson makes a more money, the dealer makes more money and you pay more than is necessary. This is a common scam pulled on many unsuspecting homeowners and most will never know they have been overcharged.

To combat this problem you have to get more than just one or two measures to be able to compare. You will probably get three differ- ent quotes with three different measurements and three different prices. It can be very frustrating but in the end there will be one company that you will feel most comfortable doing business with.

Another smart way to get accurate measurements is to hire a good carpet installer to measure your home and provide you with a de- tailed diagram showing the total amount of carpet needed, the actual room measurements, seam placements and where the fill pieces are located. You may have to pay as much as $50 or more to have your home measured by a professional. You have to decide if it is worth the additional expense.

The dealers I have listed in my Preferred Carpet Dealer Directory are all hand-picked by me and I search high and low for only the best and most reputable dealers I can find. See who I recommend near you and if you mention that I referred you, I am sure you will get your absolute best deal possible. From start to finish you need to know that your carpet dealer is going to stand behind their products and services before, during, and especially AFTER the sale!

Visit My Preferred Carpet Dealer Directory at

Http://www.AbcCarpets.com

106 107 Carpet Glossary Abrasion -Damage to a carpet fiber caused by friction. Anti-static – The ability of a carpet to dissipate an electrostatic charge thereby preventing the build-up of static electricity to the human sensi- tivity threshold. BCF – Bulked Continuous Filament fiber. Continuous filament is manufactured in one continuous length. A bulked continuous filament fiber has uniform crimping and excellent dye-ability. (Page 62) Bulking - Processing a yarn, to fluff it up and give more covering with the same weight. Carpet backing – A primary backing through which the carpet tufts are inserted. The backing is sometimes made of woven jute or non- woven manufactured fiber fabrics. Carpet cushion – see Padding. Cleanability -The ability of a carpet to release soil and stains without damage to the fiber, color, or backings when cleaned using appropriate methods. Continuous filament – made in one continuous strand. Double-wrapped– When a stair has carpet wrapped over both ends. Face-weight -The weight of the pile including those portions of the pile that extend into backing structure, usually expressed in ounces per square yard. Generations -A reference to the stages of development for Nylon car- pet fibers through the years since it was first developed. Heat setting –A process for stabilization of carpet yarns by exposure to heat. Tufts are twisted while heated to help carpets retain their new ap- pearance longer. Nap -The carpet pile or surface of the carpet. Nylon – The most commonly used fiber in tufted carpet pile yarns. Two chemical types, Nylon 6,6 and Nylon 6 are used in making carpet. Nylon 6,6 is poly (hexamethyleneadipamide) and Nylon 6 is polycap- rolactam. Both types are very durable fibers. Olefin (Polypropylene) Olefin is a strong good-looking synthetic fiber that is inexpensive to manufacture. Olefin wears well and has good stain resistance when anti-stain treatment is applied. Olefin has good anti-static properties. However, Olefin is not always easy to keep clean. It has poor resiliency and tends to look dingy when soiled. Some carpets that are commonly made of olefin are Berbers or commercial looped carpets. Large looped Berbers made of olefin tend to mat down quickly. Olefin is not the best fiber for rental units in most cases, however some

108 have had reasonable success using an olefin commercial level loop car- pet when it is glued directly to the floor. Wheelchairs roll easily over glued down commercial level carpets and may be an excellent choice for the elderly. Padding -Also called carpet cushion, underlay, or lining. The material serving as a cushion under a carpet. Pattern -The decorative design on the surface of a carpet. It may be printed, woven or tufted with colored yarns, or sculptured into multiple pile heights. P.E.T. - Polyester. P.E.T. (polyethylene terephthalate) Recycled plastic is used to make this carpet fiber. Pile - The upright ends of yarn, cut or loop, that forms the wearing or top surface of carpets. Repeat -The distance from a point in a pattern figure to the same point where it occurs again, measuring lengthwise. Resilience/Resilient -The ability of a carpet fiber or padding to spring back to its original shape or thickness after being crushed or walked upon. Seams –The place where two separate pieces of carpet are joined to- gether. Seams are unavoidable when the room width exceeds the nor- mal width of the carpet. Sorona® DuPont™ is the world leader in fiber technology, They have a new product on the market, a polymer derived from corn. It was originally invented back in the 1940’s but it was too expensive to manufacture back then. DuPont™ calls this fiber Sorona®, it’s a proprietary poly- mer with engineered stain protection that they claim will never wash off or wear off. With exceptional cleanability as its main claim to fame it will be a carpet fiber that many consumers will want to have in their homes. (This fiber is also known as Smartstrand™ by Mohawk®). Staple fiber – a carpet manufactured using short lengths of synthetic fiber (usually about 8’ in length). Carpets made with a staple fiber tend to shed and fuzz significantly for up to a year after installation. Tufts -The cut or uncut loops of a carpet pile. Twist -the total number of tuft twists per inch. Carpets with higher tuft twist counts tend to retain their new appearance longer and resist crush- ing and matting. Waterfall stairs– A common staircase with a wall on both sides of the stairwell. Also called “box” stairs. Yarn -A continuous strand composed of fibers or filaments and used in tufting and weaving to form carpet.

109 Your Final Carpet Selections Brand ______Store Name ______Style ______Location ______Color ______Padding ______Salesperson ______Total Price $______Phone ______For these rooms: Comments: ______

Brand ______Store Name ______Style ______Location ______Color ______Padding ______Salesperson ______Phone ______Total Price $______For these rooms: Comments: ______

Brand ______Store Name ______Style ______Location ______Color ______Salesperson ______Padding ______Phone ______Total Price $______For these rooms: Comments: ______

110 Your Final Carpet Selections Brand ______Store Name ______Style ______Location ______Color ______Padding ______Salesperson ______Total Price $______Phone ______For these rooms: Comments: ______

Brand ______Store Name ______Style ______Location ______Color ______Padding ______Salesperson ______Phone ______Total Price $______For these rooms: Comments: ______

Brand ______Store Name ______Style ______Location ______Color ______Salesperson ______Padding ______Phone ______Total Price $______For these rooms: Comments: ______

111 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Common Carpet Buying Questions & Answers

1. Best Carpet for a young family?

I have started shopping around for carpet in my family room. I have a newborn son, a beagle, and one cat. The dog has ruined the carpet that is in the room currently and I can’t stand the smell any- more. I feel that I have rectified the housetraining situation, so now it’s time to get nice new carpet. This is also a very high traffic area and we would want the carpet to last at least 7 - 10 years. We are a young couple on a tight budget. After reading a little on you website I see that you have made some suggestions of nylon textured plush, 40-oz face weight and density of 2000 with a 6-pound 7/16” Rebond pad. Would this be a good match for us and in our budget?

Response: Yes, you are right, a plush or textured plush would do nicely, es- pecially if you are on a tight budget. Because of your up and com- ing family and 2 pets you need to go for a shorter pile height and a higher density. Try to find a carpet with a density of about 2000 to 2500 depending on your budget. Spills and stains will be much easier to deal with and it will wear longer if you choose a carpet with a shorter pile height. As for pad, a 6-pound rebond would do nicely, 7/16" thick maxi- mum. Carpet and pad selection is just one critical factor to deal with. Finding a good deal and getting qualified installation is just as important. I think $20-$25 per yard (installed with pad) is a fair price for what you are looking for.

112

2. Home Improvement stores I purchased your buying guide in order to get educated on buying carpet and I learned a lot. I am trying to find carpet- ing for bedrooms at a beach house and per your recommen- dation was going to go for a frieze with a 1/2 inch rebond pad. I was wanted to know if you recommend buying at stores like Lowes or Home Depot? The quality looks Okay to me and in the $25-30/yd. installed but wondering what you thought of their quality.

Response: The carpet quality at home improvement warehouses is fine, I think it's the high prices, poor service and lousy installation you should watch out for. For example, Lowe’s and Home Depot have offered $199 specials on their basic installation. What you end up finding out later is that they tack on a whole bunch of "extra" fees and charges for any installation that goes beyond their idea of a "basic" installation charge. This can add up to hundreds of dollars extra.

Should you happen to have an installation problem, they direct you to contact their subcontractors since they sub out all installa- tions to another company. That leaves you holding the bag to try to get a resolution to your problem. I think consumers should shop at smaller family-owned carpet stores. They have a vested interest in your community and tend to be very knowledgeable and provide excellent service.

3. Power stretchers

I got your ebook and it and your website have been very helpful. Based on your book, I even developed my 113 own 45-question worksheet for each and every carpet company I talk to. It’s been a real educa- tion. As more anecdotal evidence of why it’s absolutely necessary to get two bids, I called one guy who was listed under carpet layers in the phone book. He said they also like to sell carpet and came out to the house to measure. He then tried the lump sum pricing, which I asked him to break down. He did so reluctantly, giving me the carpet price and the pad price, and saying everything else was installation. It worked out that installation was about $17/yd. Yikes! I went to another company and without having him to the house asked about in- stallation - $3.50/yd. $1.50 for removal, a bit more for stairs and $2/ft for transition metal (of which we have maybe 20 feet), working out to about $5.50/yd. I called a carpet instal- lation company and their pricing was similar to the second company. Amazing.

Another anecdote - you don't recommend Berber for pets. We bought a remnant for our dog to sleep on. Within a day he'd put a run in it. Not surprisingly, we decided against doing Berber. Anyway, now to the question. In your book and on your site, you strongly recommend a power stretcher. All three companies say they'll use if it needed, but, as a general rule won't for residential work unless there's a 50-foot room. For a smaller room, it doesn't provide as much flexibility in angling (one company showed us a picture and trade article). Any response for these guys?

Response: Thank you for such a nice e-mail. It really makes me feel good to know that I am making a difference with my book and website. Now, to your question:

114 Yes! I have a word for these guys. Thanks, but no thanks! No responsible, qualified installer would ever say that a power stretcher should only be used in a 50-foot room. Its one thing to say that a small closet can be "kicked in" but every consumer should know the facts: unless you want your carpet to develop wrinkles within 1 to 3 years, insist that a power stretcher is used in every room of your home. "If these installers won't use a power stretcher then hire someone that will!"

4. I think I got scammed! Do carpet installers charge for the amount of carpet they AC- TUALLY install? My installer charged me for the amount of carpet I ordered not what he actually installed on the floor. So all the leftover scraps and pieces and a remnant that's enough to do a room, I paid him to lay it all. My upstairs is only 550 SF and he had me order 750 SF of carpet! I didn't realize this until it was too late. I paid him just before he finished the job, then when I went back, I saw all the leftover carpet & pad. I didn't know how to do the measuring myself, but now I do! Sad part is, I spent $600 in carpet, pad & labor that I shouldn't have. And, he's my best friend's brother. He said you pay for amount of carpet used to cover the SF (including scraps), not the amount of SF in rooms.

Response: You did not get scammed. It is standard practice for installers to charge for all the material they are required to handle, including the waste, which apparently you had quite a bit of. Some homes will have a lot more waste than others depending on the layout of the rooms and whether the carpet has a pattern match. For exam- ple, if your room is 9 x 15 and you order 12 x 15 (carpet comes in 12 foot widths) then you have to pay the installer for the whole 12

115 x 15 amount of material. There is also an additional charge for stairs. Carpet installers earn every penny they make. Laying car- pet injures your knees and back to the point where many carpet layers eventually become to crippled to walk.

5. Apartment Carpet I live in Long Beach California and own an 827 SF condo (92 yards) that I will be renting out. Approximately, how much should I pay for a nylon plush carpet?

Response: In a rental you could pay a little a $7.00 per yard for apart- ment grade carpet, or pay a little more ($8-$12) for an up- graded carpet. Pad is $2 to $3 per yard, and installation is $3 to $5 per yard on average. For the carpet, pad and in- stallation figure $13 to $18 per yard total. I don't recom- mend spending too much money on carpet for rentals, ten- ants rarely take well care of it and you could end up re- placing your carpet more often than you expect. Don't buy from a carpet retailer; buy from an “apartment carpet ven- dor”. Don't know of any? Call a local apartment complex and ask the manager who they use to replace their carpets. Then call the carpet vendor and tell them you have an apartment that needs carpet and you want to have their rep come by with some samples, measure, and to give you a bid. This is the best way for you to go. It will save you a lot of money.

6. Carpet numbers? I think that I have found the correct carpet for me. No pets, small home, 2 adults. Want something that is easy to take care of and wears well. I live in a wooded area, so fir needles can get tracked in, but basically, we don’t wear shoes in the house and don’t have any out of the ordinary things going on that would trash a car-

116 pet (non smoking etc). I am looking at a carpet that is Nylon, Average face weight is 61.3, twist is 5.5, density is 3108. I don’t know if this is good, bad or indifferent, because it is so hard to compare carpets. I know you recommend nylon. Do those numbers sound ok? Of course, our budget does play into this and we can’t af- ford to just buy the most expensive carpet there is in order to be sure to get the best. Should we be looking at something different?

Response: With no kids or pets, this sounds like a good carpet for you. However, your work is not done yet. You have not mentioned the price they are charging you for this carpet, and in order to be sure you get a good deal, I would need to know the brand and style of this carpet and what type of store you plan on buying it from. You also still need to decide on the correct pad, and then have it installed properly. Have you shopped around and compared this carpet to others like it? Check-out that sample and take it with you from store to store.

7. Ugly Carpet Seams?

When my wife and I were shopping for our new carpet I discovered your website. It was amazingly informative and saved us big trouble. We were starting from scratch and were all set to buy polyester from a discount store. Your site really got me thinking about long term value and instead we went to a local family carpet store that had been in the neighborhood for 40 years. We bought a beau- tiful 68 oz. Nylon with a rubber waffle pad. They installed Monday and it's beautiful. Plush too, like walking on air.

However, I do notice the lines where the seams meet in

117 doorways and such. I called our salesperson and she said that these lines would go away over time as the carpet wears in. She said to give it a couple weeks and if the lines don't go away to let her know and they'll make it right. This is our first (and I hope last) wall to wall carpet and I just wanted to get your opinion of this. How visible should seams be when first installed?

Response: I bet you bought a light colored carpet, perhaps an off- white or light tan? Just a guess, but light colored carpets are much harder to hide seams than are darker colors. Chances are, your seams will not look any better in two weeks than they do today. So, what can they do to make them look less obvious? Well, perhaps they can trim them up a bit or in some cases redo the seams. It doesn't mean they will look better when they are done. If these seams are very obvious and unsightly, you should expect them to fix it. On the other hand, if the seams are noticeable to you because you know exactly where they are, or they are really not too obvious, then perhaps you might think about just having them come out to trim them up a bit and go with that. My advice: Ask a neighbor to come over and see if they can easily find the seams. If they walk in and are able to point out where the seams are (without you telling them where they are!) then you have ugly seams and you should call and complain. If your neighbor cannot easily find them, then don't be so concerned. Remember that no seam is totally invisible, but you should expect them to not appear too obvious or ugly!

8. Playroom Carpet

I am looking to buy a textured carpet for a large play- room, hallway and two bedrooms. There will be a lot of traffic in the playroom. It is a referred to as a “Soft Ny- lon”. It does not seem very dense, as I can see the backing

118 when I separate the fibers. It does not tell the fiber density or number of twists. It's about $5 per S.F. ($45/yd.) I really like the color (It is flecked), but want the retention is more important to me. We have 8 children and pets. Could you please tell me if I should look at different car- peting and if frieze would be a better selection for me?

Response: I do not recommend a “soft” nylon fiber for you as you have a very high traffic application. I think you should consider Nylon BCF, Frieze style instead. A Frieze has a higher tuft twist and is a very durable long lasting carpet. Try to find a Frieze with at least 2000 density and use 8- pound rebond pad. If you like the flecked styles take a look at a Cut Berber (California Berber).

9. Beach House Rental

I really need your help. I buying 80 yards of carpet for our beach house -four bedrooms and the hall and stairs. The hall and stairs get heavy wear and traffic. After much research I decided to purchase nylon Berber and was trying to decide between a name brand carpet and another nylon Berber with scotch guard until I read your web site. Now I am wondering if Berber is the way to go or should I be looking at textured plush or this com- mercial grade cut pile you refer to on your web site. We do rent out the house some of the time so we need something that is very durable and cleans up well. We had olefin Berber before and it crushed over time, but was pretty good on the stains. Thanks so much for your help. Response: Just to make sure you don't get the wrong impression, I do like Berber carpet. It's just that some carpet salespeople don't seem to care about the needs of their customers when recommending Berber to someone with children or 119 pets. You did not state whether or not you have kids, but did say that you sometimes rent out your beach house. In this case, I do suggest you consider a Nylon plush style. Perhaps a Frieze if it is in your budget.

Follow-up: Thanks so much for your response. We certainly do have children at our house when we rent or have guests. We have always bought Berber because we thought it was very tough and hid the stains and dirt well. Most of the ny- lon plush carpets I see are solid colors, which would seem to show all the stains in the lighter colors. We have an off- white nylon plush in our bedroom and it is difficult to keep clean. Is there any one brand that you would recom- mend that has speckled colors or just one that you know is very durable and stain resistant? What should I look for in nylon plush?

Response: You are so right! Shopping for carpet is confusing. As far as selecting a carpet that will work for you, I suggest you shy away from the off-white carpets and go with some- thing a little darker. I cannot suggest a style or color, that's your decision.

10. Best Carpet Selection We have just started carpet shopping and have brought home a couple of samples. Both are frieze carpets made of nylon. One says that it is 100% Continuous Heat-Set Ny- lon. The other is 100% Nylon. Also with respect to frieze carpets, does the pile length make a big difference for du- rability and wear? One has a longer pile (however we pre- fer the color of this one) and seems to show footprints more than the other.

Response: Frieze is my favorite carpet. It has great twist and is made 120 of Nylon. You can't go wrong with a frieze. Heat set nylon just means they use heat to "set" the twist in the fiber, just like some might use heat to set the curls in a hairstyle. Continuous filament nylon is the best way to go or your carpet will shed for a month or more. If it doesn’t say BCF or CFN on the label it is not a continuous filament fiber. As far as pile height goes, the shorter the pile height the more durable the carpet and the easier it is to clean. The same holds true for pile density. The higher the density rating the more durable the carpet and footprints and vac- uum marks will be less noticeable too.

11. Sorona and Carpet Stains I have bad carpet stains from water flooding and it cannot be removed via professional steam cleaning. What carpet can I replace it with that is absolutely stain proof and cannot be stained again by water flooding. The carpet is in the base- ment, which is a full basement entertainment room

Response: There is no carpet made today that is totally stain-proof. Of all the fibers available today, I think Sorona is the most stain resistant and cleans the easiest. Sorona is also known as Smartstrand by Mohawk and also referred to as PTT.

12. Frieze Carpet

Do you know of any manufacturers that sell frieze carpet in something wider than 12' width? We have a room lay- out that will not work with 12' width and we are pulling our hair out trying to find something we like in a 13'6" or 15' width. We have found some Saxony carpets, 100% nylon, twist 5, density 3108, face weight 58 oz, but we don't know if this will take the high traffic of our hallway and living room. Also we aren't sure we like the way it looks. We really

121 want frieze, but we have only found ONE in over 12' and we've looked and looked. We found one in 13' 6" (which will work) but it is pricey. The density seems rather low at 1874. Twist is 7.5, and weight is 40 oz., which one of these do you think will stand up to heavy foot traffic and kids best? If you could point out any other wider frieze carpet we would be grateful.

Response: Since there is only so much showroom space available, retailers cannot display every carpet sample available by all the different carpet mills. I would suggest having your salesperson contact their various mill representatives by phone and ask them what Friezes are available in wider sizes. The mill reps can then make arrangements to make those samples available to you.

While the Saxony and frieze carpets you have mentioned are plenty durable for your needs, I always suggest that my clients buy the carpet they like. Don't settle for a Saxony when you really want a frieze (my favorite). A Frieze is inherently more expensive than a Saxony but will last longer. It is harder to find high-density ratings with Frieze styles because of the high tuft twist (usually about 7). A pile density rating of 2000 is nice, but 2500 is better. Expect to pay about $30 per yard and up for a quality Frieze style made with BCF Nylon.

13. Carpet Selection I have learned so much about buying carpet by reading your website. What a wealth of information! My husband and I have pretty much made up our minds about the car- pet we are going to purchase for our living room and hall. I thought that I would run it by you first, just to see if we had done our homework correctly. We have two older children and no pets. We are looking at a product called

122 Chateau. It is 100% BCF nylon. Its face weight is 45 ounces. We will pay approx. $27/yd. The pad that has been suggested is a rebond pad that is 8 lb. for approx. $5/yd. What do you think?

Response: I'm sure it is a beautiful carpet! The price is good and I think it will do you nicely. The padding is where I see a little problem. $5 per yard for 8-pound rebond is a bit high. Your carpet does not require an 8-pound pad, and if you want to save some money, a 6-pound pad would be less expensive and a little softer underfoot. A good quality 6-pound, 7/16 inch, rebond pad should only be about $3- $3.50 per yard (unless you live in Hawaii or Alaska). That will save you about $2 per yard!

14. Six-pound verses eight-pound padding

I wanted to know, is there really a difference in 6 lb. pad- ding vs. 8 lb. padding? I am getting a home built and I choose the 8 lb. padding. But will I be able to tell when walking on it. Or it 6 lb. thick enough for a new home?

Response: This (pound) rating system defines the density of carpet padding. 8-pound padding is stiffer to walk on than 6 pound, which is a bit softer underfoot. 6-pound padding is plenty dense for use with most residential carpet and falls within most carpet warranty guidelines. Most people pre- fer the 6-pound. In your case, it would save you some money to use the 6-pound pad. Either pad will serve you well, support your carpet properly and help your carpet to last a long time. Be sure to check the carpet manufacturer guidelines for padding and use what is recommended.

15. Berber Carpet

123 Hello, I need some information regarding what questions I should ask the seller of a house I am looking at buying. All the carpet is Berber. What should I ask them about it? Thank You Response: Having Berber carpet can be a big disadvantage for the seller and an advantage for the buyer. It's what you need to know about Berber that is important here. Let me ex- plain:

If you buy this house you have two options. Either keep the Berber or replace the Berber. Why would you want to replace the Berber you ask? If you have kids or pets you might want to replace it, or at least tell the sellers that you will have to have it replaced soon. Why? Berber carpets tend to snag easily. Kids and pets will snag the carpet and can ruin it in a hurry. It doesn't matter what brand it is, or what style it is, they all snag. If you have kids or pets, you will end up wanting to replace the Berber before too long. Perhaps this is a good negotiating point.

On the other hand, if you don't have kids or pets, and never plan to, then you might like having a Berber carpet. Here are some facts about Berber that no one else will tell you.

Most Berbers are made of olefin; some are made of Nylon (better). Some have large loops some have smaller loops (better). Some have no pattern and some have a repeating pattern (better). So ideally, to determine the quality level of this Berber, a good grade of Berber will be made mostly of nylon, have smaller loops and a repeating pat- tern. That means if this Berber has large loops (they tend to fall over, mat down and look bad sooner), made of ole- fin (a strong fiber but not very resilient), and no noticeable pattern, then it is probably a relatively inexpensive carpet.

124 If the wrong padding was used, the carpet may stretch out prematurely and need to be re-stretched at some point. It is expensive to have Berber carpet re-stretched.

You must always use a Chem-dry system to clean Berber carpet and can never use a steam cleaner. The hot water extraction method could cause it to delaminate and poten- tially develop wrinkles. You can now decide if this Berber is a good choice for you.

16. Carpet for a growing family

I am a new homebuyer. I would like carpet throughout a majority of my home (including the stairs). My family (which includes a 2-year old and a newborn) walks around barefoot all day everyday. So we would like our carpet to be as soft as possible, but also very stain-resistant as well. Can you please help me figure out the best carpet and car- pet pad for my situation? I would like the carpet to last 10-15 years and I am willing to spend up to $30/yd. please help!

Response: You do need help. Practically everybody does, because the retail carpet business is full of scams. If you are not wise to all their tricks you could lose hundreds. As far as selecting a carpet, there is only one type of carpet that will survive your growing family’s needs. Nylon! You must buy a Nylon carpet if you want it to last. But that's only the first step in a four part effort to be sure you get the whole job done right, including carpet selection, correct padding, professional installation and a good price. I sug- gest you take a look at a textured plush style. Your budget does not quite allow for a good quality frieze unless you get a really good deal. Your budget should be able to af- ford a nice quality plush carpet that will last you a long time. Be sure your carpet has anti-stain and anti-static 125 treatment and is a continuous filament Nylon. You might also want to consider going with Sorona, (Smartstrand by Mohawk) it is relatively new on the market but claims to be soft and durable and very stain resistant.

17. High Traffic Patterns I’m so glad I ran across your website! We're getting ready to invest in carpeting our entire house (about 2,000 sq. feet). My brother's builder (consistent high end Parade home winner) referred us to his supplier and buyer. He gave us a quote for $17/yd. for carpet, pad, and installa- tion for a Mohawk carpet. It's kind of like the frieze' (I call it a twist-short shag). I love it, but I do have kids and we show Dobermans. I don't have a housebreaking prob- lem with the dogs and they are kept in our indoor kennel room 60% of the time, so they don't create excessive wear.

My problem is that we have high traffic patterns. Our house is a typical ranch home that's about 20 years old (original carpet). You almost walk the same exact pattern every where you go. Is this a good traffic carpet and do you think it's a good price. I can't seem to find a durabil- ity rating for it anywhere. Trying to find it at a Home im- provement warehouse for a comparison is very difficult as they all have different names and colors.

Any help is appreciated. I've never had to purchase carpet and it's so confusing! Thank you for being so helpful to everyone. I was relieved when I found you!

P.S. Half of my sq. footage is basement. Would this be a good carpet for a finished very dry basement? Would you suggest a pad over concrete for the basement? I have Ber- ber now and I hate it! I want something more softer and elegant as we use it for our family room, den and office.

126 Response: The frieze you mentioned would be all right for you if it is Nylon, but not if it is made of Polyester. I suspect the car- pet you have selected might be made of Polyester, but I am only guessing from the low price you mentioned. Hopefully you are getting a great deal on a Nylon carpet and pad. Inherently, a good quality frieze will tolerate a lot of abuse, but only when it is made from Nylon. A polyester (P.E.T.) carpet will mat down in a hurry, espe- cially in high traffic areas.

$17 installed with pad? Good quality 8-pound padding is ($3.00-4.50 yd) and installation ($4.00 to 5.50 yd) will cost about $7-10 per yard combined so this frieze carpet you mentioned is only $8-10 per yard? You can't buy a good quality Nylon Frieze carpet for $10 per yard, it’s more like $30 yd installed with a decent pad. A Nylon frieze is very good in higher traffic applications and it would be an excellent choice for your basement area too. 8-pound pad is required on most frieze styles.

18. Day care Carpet

I run a Day Care in my lower level. So the carpet gets a lot of traffic. Was thinking of a Berber but was told it would snag if the children would run toys across it. What would you suggest? We also use it for our own family so would like something that looks nice (not commercial).

Response: Berber for you is a no-no! I know you say you don't want commercial carpet but your options are quite limited if you expect your carpet to last. I suggest you consider a short nap, commercial cut pile, installed over synthetic fi- ber pad. This type of carpet really looks nice! It will clean easily, last a long time, tolerate a lot of abuse and it is rea- sonably priced. For the best price, stick with a basic style,

127 no pattern, single color. This can be made of either nylon or Olefin (polypropylene).

19. Basement Carpet

We just finished off our large basement and ready for the carpet. The basement is very dry and has never had any water. It will be heavily used for bedroom, game room, family room, home theater, pool table room, and a weight room. I know from researching that nylon is the best way to go but not sure if I should go with textured plush or a commercial grade of carpet. I don't really want to use any glued down carpet and definitely not Berber. To have fewer seams we have to look at 15-ft. goods. Also need to know what would be the best pad and weight of carpet to use.

Response: The padding requirements for textured plush are different than for a commercial carpet. I have a commercial carpet (no pad) in my office and family room and it is just great. I know I will get my monies worth from it, as it will easily last for 10 to 15 years. Textured plush that will last this long would cost about two or three times as much. You decide how long you want it to last and use that as your guide. (See pages 75 to 78)

20. Berber Carpet Choices

I love your website! If you could give us some general comments on our proposed purchase we would be most grateful.

We are looking at buying 192 yards of Mystic Trace. It is BCF Nylon, short looped Berber carpet. Face weight 46.8

128 oz. Tufted pile height .437 inches. Density is 4434. Total weight is 82 oz. We are buying the carpet from a local family store in Houston.

We are buying it for $28.40 installed with a 3/8, 8 lb. density and rebond pad. We are having this carpet installed over stairs. We are a little worried about the "smile" - a cracked appearance where the carpet bends. Will this be an issue? Can a good installer avoid this? Is this a good mid-grade car- pet? We do have a kid and plan to have more but really love Berber.

Response I fear that your love of Berber will turn into a disheartened relationship. Not only do I frequently see the damage caused by children and pets on a frequent basis but I also get plenty of e-mails from folks with kids or pets who purchased a Ber- ber carpet only to discover plenty of non-repairable snags and runs showing up all over the place. If you were older and all your kids were grown, I would say great choice! But you are just going into the family-years where everything you hold dear will soon be ruined, stained, snagged, broken, lost, mistreated or mutilated. I know because I have 4 kids at home. If you decide to buy Berber anyway, there is a right way and a wrong way to put Berber on stairs. Any good in- staller will know how to deal with the "smile" you men- tioned. The padding is right and the price is reasonable. Whatever you do, do not hire a steam cleaner to clean your Berber carpet. Always use a dry chemical carpet cleaning service. Water is the mortal enemy of Berber carpet, espe- cially an excessive amount of hot steamy water.

Read more Q & A on my website at Http://www.AbcCarpets.com

129 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide Contractor State License Requirements

Is your carpet layer or flooring installer licensed, bonded and insured? Is it required? Here’s how to find out!

Select your State below to see what the requirements are in your area. State laws change constantly so no guarantee that this list is current and up to date.

AK - Contractors must be registered with the Department of Community and Economic Development. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Alaska – Website: http://www.dced.state.ak.us/occ/pcon.htm or call (907) 465-2546 or (907) 465-3035

AL - No state license required. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Ala- bama, call (334) 242-2839

AR - A state contractor's license may be required. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Arkansas, website: http://www.state.ar.us/clb/search.htmlor call (501) 372-4661.

AZ - Contractors must be licensed by the state. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Arizona – Call (602) 542 1525 website: http://www.azroc.gov/ forms/contractorsearch.html

CA - Contractors must be licensed by the state. To find out if a contractor is licensed in California, website: https://www2.cslb.ca.gov/OnlineServices/ CheckLicenseII/CheckLicense.aspx

CO - No state license is required. Check for license requirements at the local level. CT - Contractors must be certified by the state. To find out if a contractor is certified in Connecticut – website: https://www.elicense.ct.gov/, or call (860) 713-6135 and request an inquiry form. DC - Contractors must be licensed by the state. To find out if a contractor is licensed in the District of Columbia call (202) 442-4311

DE - No state license is required. Check for license requirements at the local level.

FL - Contractors must be registered or certified. To find out if a contractor li- censed in Florida – website: https://www.myfloridalicense.com/wl11.asp

GA - A state license may be required. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Georgia – website: https://secure.sos.state.ga.us/myverification/ or call (478)

130 207-1416

HI - Specialty contractors must be licensed by the state. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Hawaii - website: http://hbe.ehawaii.gov/cogs/search.html or call (808) 587-3295.

IA - Contractors must be licensed by the state. To find out if a contractor is li- censed in Iowa call 515-242-5871. ID - No state license is required. Check for license requirements at the local level. General contractor license search: https://secure.ibol.idaho.gov/eIBOLPublic/ LPRBrowser.aspx IL - Most contractors do not need to be licensed. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Illinois call (217) 782-045. IN - No state license required. Check for license requirements at the local level.

KS - No state license required. Check for license requirements at the local level..

KY - No state license required. Check for license requirements at the local level.

LA - Contractors must be licensed by the state. To find out if a contractor is li- censed in Louisiana, call (800) 256-1392, website: http://www.lslbc.louisiana. gov/findcontractor.asp

MA - A state license is required. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Massa- chusetts, website: http://db.state.ma.us/homeimprovement/licenseelist.asp

MD - A state license is required. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Mary- land call (410) 230-6176 website: https://www.dllr.state.md.us/cgi-bin/ ElectronicLicensing/OP_search/OP_search.cgi?calling_app=HIC::HIC_qselect

ME - No state license is required. Check for license requirements at the local level.

MI - Contractors must be licensed. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Michi- gan - website: https://www2.dleg.state.mi.us/colaLicVerify/

MN - A state license may be required. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Minnesota, call (651) 296-6319 or (800) 657-3978 website: https://secure.doli. state.mn.us/licensing/licensing.aspx

MO - No state license required. Check for license requirements at the local level.

MS - To find out if a contractor is has a certificate or license, website: http://www. msboc.us/?page_id=111 or call (800) 880-6161.

MT - Contractors must register with the Department of Labor and Industry if

131 they have employees. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Montana, call (406) 444-7734. NC - No state license is required. To find out if a general contractor is li- censed, call (919) 571-4183 ND - A state license may be required. To find out if a contractor is licensed in North Dakota. website: : https://secure.apps.state.nd.us/sc/busnsrch/ busnSearch.htm or call (701) 328-3665.

NE - A state license may be required. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Nebraska call (402) 595-3189

NH - No state license is required. Check for license requirements at the local level.

NJ - Registration is required by the state. To find out if a contractor is regis- tered in New Jersey, call 609-984-7910.

NM - Construction contractors must be licensed by the state. To find out if a contractor is licensed in New Mexico. website: http://public.psiexams.com/ search.jsp or call (505) 827-7030 in Santa Fe, (505) 841-8020 in Albuquerque or (505) 524-6320 in Las Cruces. NV - A state license may be required. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Nevada. website: https://www.nvcontractorsboard.com/datamart/ nvscbSearchType.do or call 702-486-1100. NY - No state license is required. Check for license requirements at the local level. To find out if a contractor is licensed in New York – website: http:// www.labor.state.ny.us/formsdocs/wp/shformsandpublications.shtm.

OH - No state license required. General construction contractors may need to be licensed at the local level. Check with the city or county for licensing re- quirements.

OK - No state license is required. OR - Contractors must register with the Oregon Construction Contractors Board. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Oregon, call (503) 378-4621 website: https://ccbed.ccb.state.or.us/ccb_frames/consumer_info/ccb_index. htm PA - In 2008, the Pennsylvania Legislature passed the Home Improvement Consumer Protection Act. The law requires that all contractors who perform at least $5,000 worth of home improvements per year register with the Attorney General's Office. http://www.attorneygeneral.gov/hic.aspx RI - A state license may be required. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Rhode Island call (401) 222-1268. 132 SC - Commercial contractors must be licensed by the state, specialty contractors must be registered. To find out if a contractor is licensed in South Carolina. website: http://verify.llronline.com/LicLookup/Contractors/Contractor.aspx? div=69 or call (803) 896-4696 SD - No state license required. Check for license requirements at the local level.

TN - Contractors must have a state license. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Tennessee. website: http://licsrch.state.tn.us/ or call (615) 741-8307.

TX – No state license is required. Check with your city or county for local re- quirements.

UT - Contractors must have a license from the Division of Occupational and Pro- fessional Licensing. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Utah. website: https:// secure.utah.gov/llv/llv

VA - Some construction contractors must be licensed. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Virginia, website: http://www.dpor.state.va.us/regulantlookup/ or call (804) 367-8511

VT - No state license is required. Check for license requirements at the local level.

WA - Contractors must register with the Washington Department of Labor and Industries. To find out if a contractor is licensed in Washington – website: https:// fortress.wa.gov/lni/bbip/ or call (360) 902-5226.

WI - No state license required. Check for license requirements at the local level.

WV - Contractors must be licensed. To find out if a contractor is licensed in West Virginia, or call (304) 558-7890 or (877) 558-5134 website: http://www.wvlabor. org/newwebsite/pages/contractor_searchNEW.cfm WY - No state license is required. Contractors are licensed at the city or county level.

133 The Complete Carpet Buying Guide INDEX

Abrasion Resistance 54 Common Extra Fees, Charges 83 Accurate Information 55 Comparison Shopping 50 Additional Charges 34 Comparison Shopping Forms 50 Advice of Retail Salespeople 54 Construction Grade Carpet 47 Anti-Stain 31,41 Consumer Flooring Report 56 Anti-Stain Treatment 59 Custom Homes 47 Anti-Static 41 Cut Pile Styles 21 Apartment Carpet 103 Day Care Carpet 115 Apartment Grade Carpet 46 Dealing With Salespeople 61 Approximate Stair Yardage 69 Defective Carpet 14, 42 Bad Looking Seams 42 Delivering the Carpet 83 Berber 21, 66, 75, 93, 102 Density 35, 59 Berber Carpet Choices 102, 116 Designer Commercial Carpet 66 Buying Carpet Wholesale 103 Difficult Carpet Installations 46 Carpet Bluebook 56 Dogs 29 Carpet Buying Questions 100 Dump Fees 83 Carpet Cleaning Methods 94 Dye-Lot 45 Carpet Cost Index 66 Face Weight 59 Carpet Estimates 61 Factory Direct Prices 50 Carpet Fibers 23, 62 Factory to Dealer Incentives 56 Carpet In Stock 50 Family Carpet 112 Carpet Installation 30 Fatigue 60 Carpet Installation Fees 34 Fiber Pad 38,63 Carpet Installation Fees, Charges 82 Fibers 59 Carpet Installer References 33 Finding A Good Carpet Installer 46 Carpet Installers 32, 41, 46 First-Quality 14-15 Carpet Layers Union 48 Flat Rubber Pad 39 Carpet Maintenance 59 Floor Preparation 83 Carpet Mark-Up 49 Flooring Performance, value 57 Carpet Padding 38, 63 Flooring Salespeople 53 Carpet Performance, Durability 59 Flooring Supply Company 48, 51 Carpet Pricing 49 Foam Pad 38 Carpet Scoundrels 51 Formulas for Figuring Carpet 49 Carpet Selection 85, Free 17, 50, 56 Carpet Stains 108 Frieze 20, 66, 108-109, 113 Carpet Styles 20 Furniture 17, 83 Carpet Widths 25, Gimmicks 56 Cats 29 Glossary 96 Children 29, 75, 93 Good Installers 48-50 Color Fading 42 Grade Of Carpet 27 Color Name 25 Hair Pad 38, 63 Color Numbers 25 Hand 57 Color Variances 14, 44 Heating Vents 45 Commercial Carpets 21 Hot-Melt Glue 30 Commercial Cut Pile 66 Hot-Water Extraction 94 Commercial Loop Carpet 66 How Long Will Your Carpet Last 75 Commissioned Salespeople 50, 53 How Much Carpet do I Need 51, 79

134 How to Care For Your Carpet 94 Rubber Backed Carpets 22 How to Measure Your Rooms 65 Rubber Pad 39, 63 How to Measure Your Stairs 68 Saxony 21, 66 Independent Carpet Installers 32 Scams 56 In-Home Measuring 64 Sculptured Carpet 20 Installation Difficulty Factors 82 Sealing Floors 84 Installation Surcharge 32 Seam Tape 30 Installing Berber Carpeting 93 Seaming Iron 30 Installing Expensive Carpet 47 Seams 45, 52 Internet Carpet Sellers 113 Second Opinion 52-53 Knee-Kicker 43 Seconds 14, 50 Landings 69 Selecting A Carpet Style 66 Level Loop 21 Selecting the Right Carpet 75 Licensed Bonded and Insured 33 Selecting Your Carpet Fiber 62 Low-Density Pad 35 Shading 42, 44 Manufacturer 55 Shag 66 Measuring 33, 84 Sheet Vinyl 54 Measuring For Carpet 51,,68 Shopping For Carpet 25 Measuring Your Home 52 Solid Rubber Pad 39 Mold and Mildew 94 Specialty Pads 39 Negotiating a Fair Price 50 Square Feet 19, 49, 65 New Types of Carpet 100 Square Feet into Square Yards 49 Not Enough Carpet to Finish 61 Square Yards 19, 49, 65 Noticeable Color Variances 45 Stair Yardage Chart 69 Nylon 23, 62 Stairs 83 Olefin 23, 62 State Registration Number 33 Other Fees and Charges 84 Steam Cleaning 94 Overcharged 53 Step and Riser 68 Over-Measuring 12, 51-52 Stress 61 P.E.T. 24, 62 Styles, Colors, Prices & Fatigue 60 Pad Savings Formula 36 Tack Strips 30 Padding 35, 59 Textured Plush 20, 66 Pets 29, 75, 93 Transition Metals 84 Playroom Carpet 106 Tuft Twist 59 Plush 20, 66 Types Of Pad 63 Polyester 24, 62 Urethane Foam Pad 63 Polypropylene 23, 62 Vacuuming 94 Poor Workmanship 42 Vinyl Durability 54 Power Stretchers 43, Visible Carpet Seams 105 Preliminary Carpet Selection 85 Waffle Pad 39 Price of the Carpet 19 Wear Warranty 54 Property Management 46 What Padding Should I Use? 40 Quality Control 14 Wholesale Prices 32, 50 Questions & Answers 100 Withholding You Final Payment 45 Rebond Pad 38, 63 Wool 24, 62 Removing Old Carpets, Pads 83 Wrinkles 42, 94 Residential Remodels 47 Written Guarantee 50 Resilient Flooring 54 Your Final Carpet Selection 98 Retailer Advertising 50 Your Needs and Lifestyle 53 Room Yardage Table 67 Your Room Measurements 70

135 Notes

Bonus!

As a purchaser of this ebook I invite you to e-mail me with your carpet buy- ing questions. My ultimate goal is to en- sure that you get a fair deal on carpet, select the right product that will serve your needs and goals, and help you to be sure that you have your carpet in- stalled properly. These three areas are absolutely crucial to ensure that your carpet purchase is successful and satis- fying and that you are not scammed by the carpet scoundrels. Let me know if there is any advice or information that I can provide you. I am here to offer helpful advice and sugges- tions in any way I can. Just E-mail me at the address below.

[email protected]

Thank you for purchasing my ebook!

Alan J Fletcher

136