JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK Spring 2001 Joshua Tree Guide

Plants removed from the path of the road rehabilitation project will be cared for until they can be relocated. See Saving the Plants on page 12 and road construction information on page 3. Photo by Richard Shendel.

JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK 74485 NATIONAL PARK DRIVE IN THIS ISSUE TWENTYNINE PALMS, CA 92277 Backcountry 5 Biking 4 Campgrounds 4 Hiking 7 Information 2 Nature Trails 7 Park Map 6 Publications 11 Road Construction 3 See and Do 4 Emergency — dial 909-383-5651 •- Important information accessibility emergency phones areas, you will want to request the bul­ found within the park. If you choose to The nature trails at Bajada, Cap Rock, In an emergency call San Bernardino letin on horse use before you come. visit them, use extreme caution and do and the Oasis of Mara are accessible. An Dispatch at 909-383-5651. Call collect. international visitors not enter old mine workings. assistive listening system is available for Pay phones are located at the visitor Information is available at visitor centers take only pictures use during ranger programs with prior center in Twentynine Palms and at Black and entrance stations in Dutch, French, Over 1.25 million people visit Joshua notice. Rock Campground. You can find pay German, Italian, Japanese, and Spanish. Tree National Park each year. If each visi­ phones in the town of Joshua Tree and at ail terrain vehicles keep wildlife wild tor took only one rock or one branch Chiriaco Summit (12 miles southeast of ATVs may not be used in the park. Feeding coyotes, squirrels, and other ani­ from a bush, the park, our national heri­ Cottonwood). Emergency-only phones bicycling mals weans them from their natural tage, would soon be gone. Removal, dis­ are located at the Indian Cove ranger sta­ Bicycling is permitted on public roads, food supplies, causes overpopulation, turbance, destruction, or disfigurement tion and at Hidden Valley Campground. both paved and dirt, and on designated and turns them into dangerous creatures of anything in the park is unlawful. bike trails. There are no bicycle paths environment as they lose their fear of humans. trash Two deserts, two large ecosystems whose along roads. Bikes are prohibited on leave no trace Our dry desert climate cannot quickly characteristics are determined primarily backcountry and nature trails. During your visit pick up trash around decompose such things as orange peels, by elevation, come together at Joshua bus tours campgrounds and trails. Your actions apple cores, egg shells, and other picnic Tree National Park. Below 3,000 feet, Several companies offer tours of the park will inspire other park visitors. remains. Loose paper blows into bushes the Colorado Desert encompasses the and creates an unsightly mess and plastic by bus or van. Contact a travel agent for lost & found eastern part of the park and features six-pack rings strangle birds. Dispose of additional information. Report lost, and turn-in found, items at natural gardens of ocotillo and cholla your trash in a responsible manner and campfires any visitor center or ranger station. Lost cactus. The higher, moister, and slightly recycle whatever you can. Campfires are permitted in camp­ cooler Mojave Desert is the special habi­ articles will be returned if found. vehicle laws grounds and in picnic areas where fire tat of the Joshua tree. Joshua tree forests off-road driving Park roads are narrow and winding. grates are provided. Campfires are not occur in the western half of the park, Vehicles, including bicycles, are prohib­ Some areas are congested. Speed limits allowed in the backcountry. Collecting which also includes some of the most ited off established roads. The desert are there for your safety and well-being. vegetation, living or dead, is prohibited, interesting geologic displays found in ecosystem is fragile. Off-road driving State and federal vehicle laws apply so bring firewood. California's deserts. In addition, five fan and riding creates ruts, upsetting delicate within the park. climate palm oases dot the park, indicating those drainage patterns, compacting the soil, Days are typically clear with less than few areas where water occurs naturally and leaving visual scars for years. Plants visitor activities 25 percent humidity. Temperatures are and where wildlife abounds. are crushed and uprooted. Wildlife shel­ Ranger-led programs are offered on the weekends from mid-October through most comfortable in the spring and fall, entrance fees ters are destroyed, and food and water supplies are altered or obliterated. mid-December and from mid-February with an average high/low of 85 and Admission to the park is $10 per vehicle through May. Check at visitor centers, 50°F respectively. Winter brings cooler and is good for seven consecutive days. parking at entrance stations, and on campground days, around 60°F, and freezing nights. It A Joshua Tree Pass may be purchased for Park roads, even the paved roads, are bulletin boards for a current schedule. occasionally snows at higher elevations. $25 and a National Parks Pass, which is narrow, winding, and have soft, sandy Summers are hot, over—sometimes well good for all National Park Service sites, shoulders. Accidents occur when visitors visitor centers over—100°F during the day and not costs $50. Both are good for 12 months. stop along the road to admire a view or The park's main visitor center is located cooling much below 75°F until the early A Golden Age Pass may be purchased by make a picture. There are many pullouts at the Oasis of Mara in Twentynine hours of the morning. any U.S. citizen 62 or older for $10, and and parking lots, so wait until you get to Palms. It is open 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. The commercial filming it is good for life. one before stopping. Cottonwood Visitor Center is open from 8 a.m. to 4 p.m. Books, videos, maps, When filming or photography involves firearms and weapons pets and related items are available, as well as advertising a product or service, the use Firearms, including fireworks, traps, While pets are allowed in the park, their cultural and natural history exhibits, and of models, sets, props, or the use of a bows, BB guns, paint-ball guns, and activities are restricted. They must be on park rangers to answer your questions. restricted site, a film permit is required. slingshots, are not allowed in the park. a leash at all times, they are prohibited wildflowers day-use and restricted areas food, lodging, services from trails, and they must never be left Spring blooming periods vary with eleva­ Some areas within the patk are privately There are no concessions within the unattended—not even in a vehicle. tion, temperature, and the amount of owned; others protect wildlife or histor­ park. However, surrounding communi­ potable water moisture in the soil. You can get current ical sites. Entering these areas is pro­ ties can fulfill most visitor needs. Con­ Water is available at the visitor center information by calling the park. hibited. Day-use areas are set aside to tact local chambers of commerce for in Twentynine Palms, at Black Rock protect sensitive populations of wildlife. information. and Cottonwood campgrounds, at the world wide web They are closed from dusk to dawn. If you are "connected," check out getting to the park entrance station south of Joshua Tree, the National Park Service publications dehydration The park is located about 140 miles east and at the Indian Cove ranger station. on the web at www.nps.gov. We are It is easy to become dehydrated in arid of Los Angeles via I-10. Entrances to the rock climbing adding more information all the time. desert environments. Even if you only park are located off CA HWY 62 (Twenty- Climbers may replace existing unsafe For information about other desert plan to drive through the park, you nine Palms Highway), at the towns of bolts, and new bolts may be placed in attractions in California, surf over to should have some water with you. If you Joshua Tree and Twentynine Palms. A non-wilderness areas by permit. Permit www.californiadesert.gov. are going to camp, we recommend one third entrance is located about 25 miles applications are available at entrance sta­ gallon of wafer per person per day. If east of Indio off I-10. tions and visitor centers. Bolting in wil­ you are responsible you are going to be hiking or biking, You are responsible for knowing and horses derness is not allowed. you will want to take along two gallons obeying park rules. Check at visitor cen­ Horseback riding is a popular way to stay out and stay alive per person. Drink the water and do not ters, at entrance stations, and on bulletin experience the park. Because of the spe­ Mining was an important activity in this economize. When the water is half gone, boards to find out what they are. When cial requirements for stock in desert area and numerous mining sites can be it is time to turn back. in doubt, ask a ranger. H Emergency — dial 909-383-5651

will reduce the hazards of flash flooding and impaired visibility and create safe walking areas for pedestrians. Smoother traffic flow and elimination of congestion Expect Travel Delays this Spring will facilitate timely emergency responses and create a safer driving experience. The park has begun an extensive road construction project and visitors may experience delays of up to 15 minutes this spring when traveling between Quail Springs and Cap Rock on Park Boulevard (see the inset map on page six). Summer visitors should be aware that this portion of the road may be closed Monday through Friday during July and August. Six miles of main park road will be reconstructed during the first phase of the project. The intersection of Park Boulevard with the entrance to the Hidden Valley day-use area will be realigned to make it safer. Hidden Valley Campground will get a new entrance and visitors traveling to the Desert Queen Ranch, Barker Dam Nature Trail, or to climbing areas around the Wonderland of Rocks will no longer have to drive through the campground. The road from the newly aligned Park Boulevard to Barker Dam will be paved. The parking area for the Barker Dam Nature Trail, currently located in a wash, will be removed, the area replanted, and a new parking area constructed in a more environmentally sound location. The existing parking areas at the Quail Springs picnic area, the Boy Scout trailhead, the Hidden Valley trailhead, and the Lost Horse ranger station access road, will be reconstructed and expanded, and new parking areas will be constructed at the Hemingway Buttress rock formation, the Wonderland of Rocks backcountry staging area, and the "mojave plants" exhibit area. The fiscal 2001 phase of the project is funded by the Federal Lands High­ We understand your concerns when you see the disturbed areas created by the way Program at six million dollars. Phase two will continue the reconstuction construction project. Vegetation disturbance will be minimized because the construc­ of Park Boulevard from Cap Rock to Jumbo Rocks Campground hopefully in tion will occur primarily in previously disturbed areas or within narrow < onstruction 2002. Next comes Keys View Road and Pinto Basin Road from Pinto Wye limits around new parking areas. An extensive soil and plant salvage project which to Cottonwood Spring in 2005. began last fall has saved over 1,000 plants from being destroyed. (See page 12.) These concerns were carefully considered in the 1995 General Management Plan and in the road design process. 1 he project also received public lewevv in an A Season's Inconvenience Leads to Long-term environmental assessment early in 2000. Resource Protection and Visitor Safety This is one of the most important infrastructure improvements in the park's history. It will dramatically improve visitors' experiences in the Hidden Valley As you drive through Joshua Tree National Park this spring and summer, you may campground by eliminating the traffic to Barker Dam from the campground. encounter delays associated with a major road construction project. We apologize for Ultimately, this project will provide for enhanced protection of park resources and the inconvenience and would like to explain why the project is necessary. visitor safety. Many park roads are old mining and ranching roads that were simply oiled and paved over. They were constructed without the benefit of engineering and do not meet today's safety standards. Many show signs of wear and tear as a result of COOPERATION RESULTS IN A WIN-WIN SITUATION increased visitation and the use of larger vehicles by park visitors. In many places, the "The National Park Service protects our nation's heritage through the preservation asphalt along roads edges has broken down because large vehicles, such as buses and of our country's special places—treasured natural and cultural resources—for the recreational vehicles, must pull over on road shoulders to allow for passage enjoyment of this and future generations. The U.S. military protects our heritage Studies from the early 1990s showed that designated parking was only adequate through a strong national defense to ensure that this and future generations have for one-third of the parks visitors during peak use Increased visitation throughout the freedom to continue to preserve and enjoy these special places. There must be the decade has only magnified the problem. Most designated parking areas and constructive engagement between these two government agencies to honor these two pullouts are too small to accommodate increased park use and are not located near missions." —John Reynolds, Pacific West Regional Director, National Park Service popular attractions. Visitors park along roads and walk crosscountry to the sites. This Over the last several years, the U.S. Navy and Joshua Tree National Park have expands bare spots at the edges of roadways and parking areas and creates social worked together to relocate a low altitude military training route (MTR). The trailing, which damages native vegetation and soils. MTR passed ovet seven of nine campgrounds, six of eight picnic areas, the greatest When vehicles meet on the Barker Dam Road, they must pull off the side of the concentration of desert tottoise, bighorn sheep lambing and water areas, visitor use road onto vegetation or back up for long distances. Many Joshua trees adjacent to areas, major climbing routes, and the major scenic park road. To decrease the impacts the road have been effected by soil compaction. Native vegetation, including Joshua on the park, the U.S. Navy voluntarily raised the floor of the MTR to 1,500 feet trees, on the edge of poorly defined parking areas, pullouts, and narrow roads are above ground level, but that diluted the effectiveness of the training that the pilots trampled by visitors or destroyed by vehicles. received. The paved and curbed parking areas and pullouts will provide for more direct Through the cooperative efforts of the U.S. Navy and Joshua Tree National Park, access to the primary attractions and will decrease the distance that visitors are the route now transects the southern portion of the park. It no longer'flies over required to travel on foot. The project will eliminate the confusion caused by visitor use areas and it avoids almost all desert tortoise, bighorn sheep areas, and a multitude of social trails and the trails visual impacts, hazards associated with cultural resources. The floor of the training route was returned to 200 feet above walking along the roads edge, and dust raised by vehicular traffic. ground level for part of the route. In the end, the impacts to park visitors and to Paving and appropriate drainage will eliminate the channeling effect that water- natural and cultural resources have been either eliminated or drastically reduced and. and wind-caused erosion has created, in some places, the Barker Dam Road is the quality of the training that the pilots receive has Keen enhanced. Visitors to Key several feet below the surrounding desert floor because of the erosion. The project View may have the opportunity to see these military training flight*- H Emergency — dial 909-383-5651

"•Campgrounds ^™ Group Group Horse Flush Chemical Fire Dump Campgrounds Elevation Sites Fee Sites Fee Camp Water Toilets Toilets Tables Grates 5tati on Camping Regulations * * « Belle 3&00' 16 There is a 30-day camping limit each year. However, oniy 14 nights total may occur from October through May. * * * * Black Rock 4000' 100 $10 $10 * Campsites are limited to six people, three tents, and two cars. Group sites accommodate ten to seventy people. « * * « * Cottonwood 3000' 62 $10 3 $25 Obtain reservations for sites at Black Rock, Indian Cove, and all group sites by calling 1-600-365-2267. Other Hidden Valley 4200' 39 * * * campgrounds are first-come, first-served. It is wise to arrive as early as possible. Indian Cove 3200' 101 $10 13 $20/35 * * * There are no hookups for recreational vehicles. Water is available at Oasis Visitor Center, Indian Cove Jumbo Rocks 4400' 125 * * * Ranger Station, West Entrance, and Slack Rock and Cottonwood campgrounds. Showers are not available. Ryan 4300' 31 » * * * All vegetation in the park is protected. If you want to make a campfire, bring your own firewood. Sheep Pass 4500' 6 $20/35 * * * Quiet hours are from 10 p.m. to 6 a.m. Generator use is limited to sly. hours a day. 1to 9 a.m., noon to 2 p.m., White Tank 3&00' 15 * * * and 5 to 7 p.m. Be an inspiration to others; leave your campsite cleaner than you found it. What to See and Do Backcountry Roads for mountain bikes and 4-wheef-drive vehicles For a first-time visitor the desert may appear bleak and drab. Viewed from the road, the desert only hints at its vitality. Closer examination reveals a fascinating Mountain bikes and 4-wheel-drive vehi­ Pinto Basin, a flat, sandy dry lake bed. variety of plants and animals. A rich cultural history and surreal geologic features cles are welcome in the park. For your Leaving the basin, the road climbs a add to the attraction of this place. Joshua Tree National Park offers visitors endless own safety and for the protection of nat­ steep hill, then crosses the park bound­ opportunities for exploration and discovery. Depending on the number of hours you ural features, stay on established roads. ary. A number of side roads veer off have to spend, your interests and energy, here are some ideas to consider: Tire tracks on the open desert can last toward old mines and residences. The for years and will spoil the wilderness main road leads to HWY 62, 15 miles IF YOU HAVE FOUR HOURS OR LESS, begin your tour at a park visitor center. experience of future hikers. (24.3 km) east of Twentynine Palms. Park staff will be happy to provide you with current information about conditions in Paved roads in the park are narrow the park as well as answers to your questions. Queen Valley Roads with soft shoulders. Curves, boulder With limited time you may want to confine your sightseeing to the main park A network of roads, totaling 13.4 miles piles, and Joshua trees restrict the vision roads. Many pullouts with wayside exhibits dot these roads. A list of nature trails and (21.7 km), cross this valley of boulder of bikers and motorists. The unpaved short walks appears in this publication. Consider experiencing at least one of these piles and Joshua trees. A bike trip can roads in the park are safer for bikes and walks during a short park visit. begin at Hidden Valley or the dirt road offer many opportunities to explore the On clear days the vista from Keys View extends beyond Salton Sea to Mexico and opposite Geology Tour Road. Bike racks area. Here is a sampling: is well worth the additional 20-minute drive. have been placed in this area so visitors Pinkham Canyon Road can lock their bikes and go hiking. IF YOU PLAN TO SPEND AN ENTIRE DAY, there will be time to walk several This challenging 20-mile (32.4-km) nature trails. A ranger-led program will add enjoyment and understanding to your Geology Tour Road road begins at Cottonwood Visitor visit. Check at visitor centers and on campground bulletin boards for listings. The road turns south from the paved Center, travels along Smoke Tree Wash, If solitude is what you are after, plan an all-day hike. A list of hikes is included road two miles (3.2 km) west of Jumbo and then cuts down Pinkham Canyon. in this publication and trail information can be obtained from visitor centers or call Rocks Campground. The distance from Sections of the road run through soft ahead and reserve a spot on the popular Desert Queen Ranch guided walking tour. the junction to Squaw Tank is 5.4 miles sand and rocky flood plains. The road Some visitors like to experience the desert from the seat of a mountain bike. The (8.8 km) This section is mostly downhill connects to a service road next to 110. park offers an extensive network of dirt roads that make for less crowded and safer but bumpy and sandy. Starting at Squaw cycling than the paved main roads. A selection of road trips is included in the article Black Eagle Mine Road Tank, a 6-mile (9.7-km) circular route titled Backcountry Roads in this publication. Beginning 6.5 miles (10.5 km) north of explores Pleasant Valley. A printed guide Joshua Tree has gained international attention as a superb rock-climbing area. Cottonwood Visitor Center, this dead­ is available at the beginning of the road. Many visitors enjoy just watching the rock climbers in action. end dirt road runs along the edge of Covington Flats Pinto Basin, crosses several dry washes, WITH MORE THAN ONE DAY IN THE PARK, your options increase. There are The dirt roads in Covington Flats offer and winds through canyons in the Eagle nine campgrounds and backcountry camping is permitted. You will find information access to some of the park's largest Mountains. The first nine miles (14.5 concerning camping and backcountry use elsewhere in this publication. Joshua trees, junipers, and pinyon pines km) are within the park boundary. Books and topographic maps, available at park sales areas, give information in the high desert. From Covington Flats Beyond that point is Bureau of Land needed for longer hikes. For "peak baggers," the park has ten mountains over 5,000 picnic area to Eureka Peak is 3.8 miles Management land and a number of side feet (1,524 m) in elevation. Or make it your goal to hike to all the park oases. (6.2 km) one way. The dirt road is steep roads. Several old mines are located near Other trails lead you to remnants of the gold mining era, a colorful part of the near the end, but the top offers views these roads but may be too dangerous to park's cultural history. of Palm Springs, the surrounding moun­ approach. Whatever you choose, your time will be rewarding. The desert holds much more tains, and the Morongo Basin. Your trip than what is readily apparent to the casual observer. A note of caution: The desert, Old Dale Road will be 6.5 miles (10.5 km) longer if fascinating as it is, can be life-threatening for those unfamiliar with its potential This 23-mile (37.3-km) road starts at you ride or drive over to the backcoun­ dangers. It is essential that you carry water with you—even if you are only driving the same point as Black Eagle Mine try board, a starting point for excellent through. Cars break down; keys get locked inside; accidents happen. Road. The first 11 miles (17.8 km), cross hiking. n Emergency — dial 909-383-5651

1 BACKCOUNTRY CAMPING Jor HIKING Keep Wildlife Wild Joshua Tree National Park is a back­ the rocks and vegetation out of the way. can be fatal. packer's dream with its mild winter cli­ Domestic issues Carry a minimum of one gallon of mate and interesting rock formations, Water sources in the park are not pota­ water per person per day just for drink­ plants, and wildlife. It embraces 794,000 ble and are reserved for wildlife, so you ing, two gallons in hot weather or if you acres of which 630,800 acres have been will have to carry in an adequate supply are planning a strenuous trip. You will designated wilderness. By observing the for drinking, cooking, and hygiene. You need additional water for cooking and guidelines below, your venture into the will want to give some thought to the hygiene. backcountry should be safe and enjoy­ trade-off between the water required And don't forget the other essentials: able. If you have questions, ask a ranger. to hydrate dried foods and the heftier rain protection, a flashlight, a mirror and It is your responsibility to know and weight of canned and fresh foods. If you whistle, a first-aid kit, pencil and paper, a abide by park regulations. want to heat something you will need to pocket knife, and extra food. Registering pack in a stove and fuel as open fires are Coping with the weather Don't feed coyotes! People food prohibited in the backcountry. If you will be out overnight, register at That old desert sun can damage eyes as is not healthy for them. It makes a backcountry board. The map in this Bring plastic bags to hold your gar­ well as skin. Wear a hat and sunglasses them into beggars, and they might publication indicates the location of the bage and pack it out. Buried trash gets and use sunblocking lotion liberally. bite you. Also, it is against the law, twelve backcountry boards. An unregis­ dug up by animals and scattered by the Temperature changes of 40 degrees tered vehicle or a vehicle left overnight wind; it is not a pretty sight. Do bury within 24 hours are common. Bring a and a ranger will give you a ticket, somewhere other than at a backcountry human waste in "cat" holes six inches variety of clothes that you can layer on and you will have to pay a big board is a cause for concern about the deep. Don't bury your toilet paper; put and off as conditions change. fine! safety of the vehicle's occupants. It is also it in plastic (zip-locks work nicely) and Although rain is relatively rare in the subject to citation and towing. pack it out. Leave no trace, as they say. desert, when it does come it can really Locating your camp Hiking pour down. Even when it isn't raining where you are, rain in the mountains can Your wilderness camp must be located It is easy to get disoriented in the desert: run off so fast as to cause flash floods. Welcome to Joshua Tree one mile from the road and 500 feet washes and animal trails crisscross the Stay alert. National Park, an increasingly pop­ from any trail. terrain obscuring trails, boulder piles are ular destination for people from Make yourself aware of any day-use confusingly similar, and there are not Stock animals throughout the United States and tfu areas in the vicinity (they are indicated many prominent features by which to To minimize vegetation damage and soil world. Some come seeking solitude, on the topo maps at the backcountry guide yourself. Do get yourself a topo­ erosion, stock animals are restricted to others recreation; some come to lean, boards) and make certain to camp out­ graphic map and compass and learn how designated horse trails and washes. about the natural and cultural won­ side. to use them before you head out. Plan to pack along sufficient water ders of this desert region, still others Washes may seem inviting places to and feed (pellet form only), as your ani­ Know your limitations. You should to be reassured that there are still sleep because they are relatively level, but mals are not allowed to drink from any not attempt to climb cliffs or steep areas offering a glimpse of the natural it is important to realize that they got of the water sources in the park or graze terrain without adequate equipment, world as it once existed. that way because flash floods bulldozed the vegetation. conditioning, and training. Accidents During your visit, I encourage you to get out of your vehicle and look, listen, smell, and explore. Rangers are available to assist you with questions Black Rock Canyon Offers Good Hiking and More about the many attractions and activ­ ities in this desert environment. Located in the northwest corner of the or staging a ride. backcountry board here for overnight The future of the national park park, rhe road to Black Rock Canyon Campers register and pay camping wilderness trips. service is as strong as the support deadends at the campground. Campsites fees at the nature center locared in the But you don't have to hike to enjoy and commitment of the people we are located on a hillside at the mouth middle of the campground. The staff at the Black Rock Canyon area. Wildlife serve. With your assistance Joshua of the canyon surrounded by Joshua this small visitor center can help plan sightings are frequent in the camp­ Tree will survive intact for the enjoy­ trees, junipers, cholla cacti, and a variety your hikes and sighrseeing. Maps, books, ground. Visitors often encounter ground ment of generations to follow. Rest of desert shrubs. Spring blooms usually nature guides, and children's activity squirrels, jackrabbits, and cottontails. assured that the staff and volunteers begin with the Joshua trees in late Feb­ books may be purchased. Frequent bird sightings include cactus at Joshua Tree National Park are ruary followed by shrubs and annuals The hills behind the campground wrens, Gambel's quail, great-horned committed to doing our part to through May. offer a variety of hiking trails including owls, jays, and roadrunners. A serious defend and protect this special place. birder might be rewarded with a glimpse This quiet, family campground is a the Hi-View Nature Trail. The inter­ Should you have recommenda­ of a Scott's Oriole or LeConte's thrasher. good introduction for first-time camp­ pretive guide for this trail, available at tions for improving your national More elusive species such as bobcar, big­ ers. Each campsite has a picnic table the Nature Center, identifies the vegeta­ park, please write me at 74485 horn sheep, mountain lions, desert tor­ and fire ring with restrooms and water tion along this scenic 1.3-mile walk. For National Park Drive, Twentynine toises, and mule deer have all been seen nearby. If you forget to bring your fire­ those looking for longer trails, Eureka Palms, CA 92277-3597 or email: in the area. As the sun sets, listen for wood, shopping facilities are only five Peak, Panorama Loop, and Warren Peak [email protected]. miles away in the town of Yucca Valley. take hikers to ridgelines overlooking the "singing" of coyotes living on the Campsites vary in size and can accom­ the often snowy peaks of San Jacinto outskirts of the campground. modate both tents and RVs. A day-use and San Gorgonio. The trailhead for a Please do not feed wild animals in picnic area and dump station are also 35-mile section of the California Riding Joshua Tree National Park. People food is available. For horse owners, a separate and Hiking Trail is located at Black unhealthy for them and they can become Ernest Quintana, Superintendent area is provided for overnight camping Rock. Backpackers can register at the agressive and harm you. tl Emergency — dial 909-383-5651 Emergency — dial 909-383-5651 NRTUKE RfiflS How Far Is It? 0a6is Cottonw<""J w

Belle Campground 9 28 28 Arch Rock .3-mile loop White Tank Campground, Black Rock Canyon 28 73 17 (.5-km) opposite site 9 To VictwvUt. and fls)53mi 85km Bajada All flW Cap Rock 19 40 16 © .25-mile loop south of Cottonwood, one- Access BSi (.4-km) half mile from the southern Cholla Cactus Garden 18 20 36 entrance to the park

Cottonwood Spring 38 O • 51 Barker Dam 1.1-mile loop Barker Dam parking area (1.8-km) Hidden Valley 20 42 14 Cap Rock an .4-mile loop Cap Rock parking area, at Indian Cove 10 48 13 0 (6-km) the junction of Park Blvd. and Keys View Road Interstate 10 45 7 35 Cholla Cactus .25-mile loop 20 miles north of Jumbo Rocks Campground 11 33 23 Garden (.4-km) Cottonwood Visitor Center' Keys View 24 45 21 Cottonwood 1-mile Cottonwood Spring Oasis of Mara 0 38 34 Spring, (1.6-km) parking area

Ryan Campground 18 39 16 Hidden Valley 1-mile loop Hidden Valley picnic area (1.6-km) Sheep Pass Campground 16 37 19 High View 1.3-mile loop Northwest of Black Rock West Entrance 34 51 0 (2.1-km) Campground

White Tank Campground 11 27 29 Indian Cove .6-mile loop West end of Indian Cove (1-km) Campground

Keys View .25-mile loop Keys View (4-km)

Oasis of flS .5-mile loop Oasis Visitor Center. Mara WtSt (.6-km) Twentynine Palms

Area Information Skull Rock .25-mile Jumbo Rocks Campground, (4-km) just beyond loop E For information about accomoda­ tions and attractions in surrounding communities, you may contact the Joshua Tree Guide following chambers of commerce: Produced by the employees and the volunteers of Joshua Tree National Park and Joshua Tree National Park Association. Indio Published by Joshua Tree National Park Association. 82503 Hwy 111 Printed by Reed Printing on recycUdpaper. Indio, CA 92201 (760) 347-0676 North [email protected] 1 J Unpaved road |/J Ranger station f.n Interpretive trail itffl Restrooms http://www.indiochamber.org I ~l 4-wheel-dhve road £J Ptcnic area £*J Campground R Backcountry board HIKINq WMLS 5 Kilometers Group campground Joshua Tree 1 I Hiking trail \"fj Medical facility (reservations required) [7| Drinking water ® Trail Roundtrip Time Starting Point Trail Description P.O. Box 600 Mileage Joshua Tree, CA 92252 (760) 366-3723 Boy Scout 16 miles 1-2 Indian Cove backcountry board Scenic trail through the westernmost edge of the Wonderland (25.8 km) days or Keys West backcountry board of Rocks. See backcountry board for information on overnight Palm Springs SPRING RANGER PROGRAMS 0.5 mile (0.6 km) east of Quail use. Moderate. 190 W. AmadoRd. Springs picnic area Desert Queen Ranch Tours by reservation Palm Springs, CA 92262 49 Palms Oasis 3 miles 2-3 Parking area at end of Canyon Several stands of fan palms, evidence of past fires, and pools of (760)325-1577 Call 760-367-5555 (4.8 km) hours Road, 4 miles (6.4 km) west of water are found at the oasis. The plants in this area are especially Twentynine Palms off Hwy 62 fragile, so walk lightly. Moderately strenuous. [email protected] Saturday Evening Campfire Programs http://www.pschamber.org Lost Horse 4 miles 3-4 Parking area 1.2 miles (1.9 km) Site of ten-stamp mill and foundations. Summit elevation: 5,278 Sunday Morning Orientation Coffees Twentynine Palms Mine/Mountain (6.4 km) hours east of Keys View Road feet (1,609 meters). Moderately strenuous.

6455 Mesquite Ave. Unit A Morning and afternoon discovery walks Lost Palms 7.5 miles 4-6 Cottonwood Spring A canyon with numerous palm stands. A side trip to Victory Palms Twentynine Palms, CA 92277 Oasis (11.2 km) hours or Cottonwood Campground and Munsen Canyon involves boulder scrambling. Moderate to oasis Weekend geology hikes and nature walks (760) 367-3445 overlook, then strenuous. http://www.29chamber.com Activities especially for kids Mastodon Peak 3 miles 2-3 Cottonwood Spring Excellent views of the Eagle Mountains and Salton Sea. Summit (4.8 km) hours or Cottonwood Campground elevation: 3,371 feet (1,027 meters). Moderate. Yucca Valley And much more 56300 29 Palms Hwy. Ryan Mountain 3 miles 2-3 Ryan Mountain parking area or Excellent views of Lost Horse, Queen, and Pleasant Valleys. Summit Yucca Valley, CA 92284 Pick up a current schedule at a visitor (4.8 km) hours Sheep Pass Campground elevation: 5,461 feet (1,664 meters). Moderately strenuous. "601 365-6323 center or look on campground bulletin boards. We also publish program sched­ Thirty-five miles of the California Riding and Hiking Trail pass through the park. Access to the trail is at itsjunction with Covington Flats, Keys View, and . ii tmberG*yui iavalley.org Squaw Tank (Geology Tour) Roads: at Ryan Campground, south of Belle Campground, and near the north entrance to the park. This allows for shorter ules on our website: www.nps.gov/jotr. !...;••' 'www.j i. . r.allev.uig hikes of 4, 6.7, or 11 miles (6.4,10.7, or 17.6 km). Two to three days are required to hike the entire length of the trail. n H Wilderness "...the most distinctive, and perhaps the most impressive, characteristic of American scenery is its wildness." John Muir 1833-1914

"A wilderness...is recognized as an area where the earth and its com­ Dramatic increases in the number of visitors engaging in rock climbing munity of life are untrammeled by man, where man himself is a visitor has led park managers to focus attention on how they can provide for who does not remain."—The Wilderness Act of 1964 climbing access while protecting park resources for future generations. Wilderness has been described as the "best of the best" of our public Working with groups such as the Access Fund, Friends of Joshua Tree, lands. Congress designated approximately 75 percent of the park as the Wilderness Society, and National Parks Conservation Association wilderness, the largest such area near the urban complexes of southern the park has instituted new bolting procedures for both wilderness and California. Wilderness offers visitors an opportunity to see an area that non-wilderness areas. is predominantly free of roads, buildings, powerlines — the visual intru­ sions associated with modern life. Wilderness offers solitude, tranquility, quiet contemplation, and freedom to study a place substantially unaf­ fected by human activity. Joshua Tree National Park's wilderness units showcases the character­ istics of the Mojave and Colorado desert. The outstanding geologic area that encompasses the rugged Wonderland of Rocks comprises one wilderness unit. A large portion of the Little San Bernardino Mountains, a magnificent erosional display that possesses a fine desert plant com­ munity and Nelson bighorn sheep ranges embodies another. Expansive areas, such as the Hexie Mountains, the broad expanse of the Pinto Basin, the Eagle Mountains and the Coxcomb Mountains, highlight other wilderness units of the park. Wilderness provides an opportunity for recreational experiences, such as hiking, horseback riding and climbing, which are primitive, nonmecha- nized, and nonmotorized. Such experiences provide opportunities for solitude. In wilderness, visitors do not remain; they leave the area in an unimpaired state, with little or no trace of their presence. After five years of work, Joshua Tree National Park's first Backcountry If you find an unsafe bolt in either wilderness or non-wilderness, you and Wilderness Management Plan was approved in January 2000. It may replace it. Please replace on a piece-by-piece basis and use rock provides direction about how we should manage the parks' backcountry colored bolts and hangers. Use the existing hole whenever possible and and wilderness areas. We want to thank the public for your interest when unable, fill the old hole with rock material blended with bonding and participation in the planning process. We have a plan that will agents. If you wish to use a power drill, you must first obtain a Special provide enhanced opportunities for visitor enjoyment while preserving Use Permit. and protecting this special part of the California desert. We encourage you to get out and enjoy your park. To place new bolts in non-wilderness, you must complete a checklist, available at park entrance stations and visitor centers. This form prompi the user to consider the impacts associated with the placement of new bolts. The park climbing committee and the park superintendent will review these checklists to ensure that impacts do not reach unaccept­ Ernest Quintana, Superintendent able levels. A permit issued by the park superintendent is required to place new bolts in wilderness. The review process may take up to six months, so advance planning will be needed. ROCK CIIMSINC Two areas of the park have been designated as anchor- (bolt) free zone where bolting is not permitted. Although these bolt-free zones cover a Whether you are a first-time climber, a wall climber in gyms, or a large portion of the park, they include very few climbs. seasoned free climber, Joshua Tree has a challenging climb for you. With more than 4,500 different routes, the park offers a full menu of You are responsible for knowing whether you are inside non-wildernes climbing experiences: multiple-pitch climbs at Echo and Saddle rocks, wilderness, or a bolt-free zone. A partial list of climbing routes located sport climbs in the "real" Hidden Valley, and bouldering at dozens of close to wilderness boundaries has been provided on pages two and locations. Whether you are interested in long, face climbs like those in three of this publication. the Astrodomes, or "clean cracks" such as those at Trash Can Rock, You can limit your impact on park resources by not leaving chalk or there is something for everybody. colorful webbing on the rock. Route cleaning and enhancing hand or Traditionally, Joshua Tree was a winter-time practice area for rock footholds is prohibited. climbers snowed out of Yosemite. But the word spread: the White Tank If you would like to learn more about climbing in the park, stop by Monzogranite found here is a solid, "sticky" rock that is fun to climb the Climbers Coffee on Sunday mornings at 8:00 a.m. in Hidden Valle and the weather here is comfortable for climbing nearly all year. Now Campground. Free coffee aside, it's a great way to meet with other thousands of people come to the park each year, during every season, climbers and to discuss climbing issues, etiquette, and regulations w to rock climb. park rangers. Wilderness boundaries in Joshua Tree Selected Wilderness Climbs Selected Non-wilderness Ciimbs Afro Awareness Week Ash Gordon Rock Agent Orange Rock Bankrupt Wall Big Ass Boulder Bed Rock Conrad Rock Black Tower Dorothy's Crag Wilderness Consort Rock Double Cross Rocks Cove Canyon Dome El Dorado Crows' Nest Endangered Species Dome Cuddlebone Dome, The Escape Rock Demon Dome False Moosedog Tower Dissatisfaction Rock Fire Me A Burger Rock Exhibit Rock Gadget Dome Flexible Rock Gossip Column, The Graceland Grain Central Station Grain Silo, The Grain Pile Rocks Group Camp Short Wall Grand Canyon - West Face Ha! Karate Rock Gravity Rock Heretic Boulder Indian Head Jerry Fall Wall Lava Dome Laughter Rock Mini Mall, The Lower Dodge City Munchkinland Crag Lower Tier, The Perpetual Motion Wall Mighty Mouse Rock Rattlesnake Forks Negropolis, The Reef Rock Noodle Rock Roman Rocks Overbolted Rock Saddle Rocks - South Face, Upper Summit Oyster Bar, The Scarecrow Rock Pet Cemetery, The Scary Rock Ponderosa Wall Scud Boulder Queen Crimson Dome Senile Dome Rock Of Ages Senile Dome - Nancy Reagan's Face Saddle Rocks Senile Dome - Northeast Face Saddle Rocks - South Face, Lower Summit Split Dome Saddle Rocks - South Face, Middle Summit Split Dome - East Face Shady Spot, The Split Personality Rock Silverado Area Split Rocks Area Smith Rock Techulator, The Star Wars Rock Toto Boulder Target Rock Jpper Dodge City Theoretical Boulder /Vane's Wall Towers, The /Vedge, The Two Bolt Rock Valle De Duck Wedding Block HORSEBACK RIPING Leave No Trace When traveling in Joshua Tree hydrated with enough water to National Park, be prepared to drink 32 oz. for every hour of "leave no trace" of your visit. By riding. Off-trail riding may damage following the suggestions below, plants, cause erosion, endanger you can help protect and preserve bike riders, and encourage ill- park resources for everyone. designed social trails. Off-trail Seek information about your des­ travel on a bike is prohibited. tination. Know what to expect Backcountry Camping regarding the weather and trail You must register at a designated conditions. Be prepared to pack it backcountry board before entering in, and pack it out, reducing litter the backcountry for camping. This at the source. Pack out all non-food provides an added margin of safety trash and all food waste left from for you. Unregistered vechicles left cooking or picnicking. Please pick overnight other than at a back- up after less thoughtful people country board or designated camp­ Horseback riding is a popular way to experience Joshua Tree National who have gone before you. site are subject to citation and may be towed away. Camping in day- Park. Because of the special requirements for horses and other stock in How You Can Help this environment, care should be taken in planning your trip. Desert soils use areas or near water sources is Desert soils are alive! If you prohibited. and vegetation are easily eroded and need your consideration. The lack see tiny, black, irregular of available drinking water is both a limitation and a challenge. bumps on the soil sur­ Leave What You Find Equestrian Trails face, try to walk Natural objects of The Backcountry and Wilderness Management Plan designates more around. Known as beauty or interest than 200 miles of equestrian trails. Many riding trails are already open, cryptobiotic crust, such as rocks, clearly marked, and ready to be enjoyed. Other trails are in various states these fungus and antlers, or arti­ of development. Limited trail maps are available at the park. bacteria provide facts must be left vital nutrients and undisturbed for Camping and Backcountry Use moisture to desert others to enjoy. Ryan and Black Rock campgrounds have designated areas for horses plants. When you It is illegal to dis­ and stock animals. A $10 per night fee is charged at Black Rock Horse step on this fragile turb or remove cul­ Camp. Reservations may be made by calling 1-800-365-2267. Water is living crust, filaments tural items such as not available at Ryan Horse Camp and no charge is made for camping. can be broken that can potsherds and projectile Call 760-367-5541, Monday through Friday, 8 a.m. to 4 p.m., to make take decades to regenerate. points. If you find an artifact, reservations. Reservations are not required for day use. leave it in place and report its loca­ Mountain bikes-riding responsibly tion to a park ranger. Grazing is not permitted in the park. While in the backcountry, stock To minimize your impact on the animals are restricted to pellet feed. Manure must be removed from area and maximize your personal The National Park Service is a campgrounds and trailheads. safety and fun, be informed about cooperating agency in the Leave Travel Restrictions bike trails and bring proper gear. No Trace educational program. For Stock use is limited to horses and mules and is restricted to designated Bicycles and mountain bikes are more information on this program, equestrian trails and corridors, open dirt roads, and shoulders of paved limited to roads open to vehicle or to obtain educational materials, roads. Riders should travel single file to reduce damage to soil and traffic and designated trails. Stay call 1-800-332-4100. vegetation. Stock animals are not permitted within V* mile of any natural or manmade water source. Horses and other stock are not permitted "Wilderness to the people of America is a spiritual necessity an antidote to the high on nature trails, in the Wonderland of Rocks, in campgrounds, in picnic pressure of modern life, a means of regaining serenity and equilibrium." areas, or at visitor centers. Sigurd Olson BICYCLE TRAILS Previously, bike riding in the between the North Entrance backcountry registration board and the park was restricted to roads open Twin Tank backcountry registration board, is open for biking. This to vehicles. (The park does not biking section of the trail travels through a sandy wash most of the way. have bike paths.) The park's new Travel from the Twin Tank backcountry board to the North Entrance Backcountry and Wilderness Man­ backcountry board provides a downhill trip and a somewhat easier ride agement Plan designates approx­ through the sand. imately 29 miles of trails for Berdoo/Thermal Canyon Bike Trail non-motorized bike use. This 10-mile trail begins at the Berdoo Canyon 4-wheel-drive road off of The following trails are for use by the Geology Tour Road. This rigorous trail follows an old, closed road bicyclists as well as hikers. Please through a very scenic and rugged portion of the Cottonwood Mountains ride responsibly and respect others with some nice overlooks. Overnight camping is available to bikers who share the trail. who register at the Pleasant Valley backcountry board. Riding from this backcountry board adds five miles to the one-way total. The trail exits Riding and Hiking Trail the park's south boundary at Thermal Canyon near I-10. Horses are not A seven-mile section of the Cal­ permitted on this trail. ifornia Riding and Hiking Trail, Emergency — dial 909-383-5651 The Desert Fan Palm: A California Native In an otherwise hot and sparse environment, palm oases are a luxuriant gift of shade and solace. The verdant display requires a constant supply of water so oases often occur along fault lines, where uplifted layers of hard impermeable rock forces underground water to the surface. There are only 158 desert fan palm oases in North America. Five are located in Joshua Tree National Park. The desert fan palm, Washingtonia filifera, is native to the low hot deserts of Southern California where it can live for 80 to 90 years. Towering up to 75 feet, the desert fan palm is among the tallest of North American palms. It is definitely the heaviest; a mature desert fan palm can weigh as much as three tons. Its distinctive leaves are shaped like a fan and folded like an accordion. They measure up to six feet in length and are nearly as wide. Looking much like "petticoats," the fan palms dead leaves remain attached to its trunk until removed by fire, wind, or flood. Fire is beneficial for palms and rarely kills an adult. In palms the vascular bundles, those tubes that transport water and nutrients, are scattered throughout the trunk. This arrangement provides insulation from the heat of a fire. In contrast, other trees such as oaks have all their vascular tissue in a ring just beneath the bark. Fire does kill young palms, but it also removes competitors and opens up space for palm seeds to germinate. In fact, desert fan palms increase seed production immediately after fires. A healthy palm can produce as many as 350,000 seeds. People have been attracted to palm oases since prehistoric times. Native Ameri­ cans ate the palm fruit and used the fronds to build waterproof dwellings. The Cahuillas (pronounced: Ka-wee-yahs) periodically set fire to oases in order to increase fruit production and to remove the sharp-edged palm fronds littering the oasis floor. The Cahuillas also planted palm seeds in promising locations.

Water is a necessity. Desert fan palms suck up water using a mass of pencil-wide rootlets so dense that the roots of other plant species cannot penetrate. This mass WHERE IN THE PARK IS COTTONWOOD SPRING may extend as far as 20 feet from the trunk in all directions. But water, in the form of flash floods, is also the most common cause of death for desert fan palms living Cottonwood Spring Oasis, one of the can become a scene of rushing water and in narrow canyons. best kept secrets in Joshua Tree National red-spotted toads. Bighorn sheep often Water also draws animals to oases: bighorn sheep, Gambel's quail, coyotes. Coy­ Park, is just seven miles from the south­ come up the wash for water in the early otes help spread palms by eating palm fruit at one location and depositing the ern entrance to the park. The spring, the hours. An old teamster road drops down undigested seeds at another. The cool shade of an oasis provides habitat for animals result of earthquake activity, was used for past the falls to the lower wash. A short that live nowhere else. After dark, a rush of air may be caused by the passing of centuries by the Cahuilla Indians, who hike leads through palo verde and desert a western yellow bat, who roosts only in palms. During the day, a flash of yellow- left bedrock mortars and clay pots, or willow trees to the remains of Moorten's orange might be a hooded oriole, who prefers to build its woven sack-like nest ollas, in the atea. Mill Site. under the large green leaves of the desert fan palm. The dime-sized holes seen in the Cottonwood Spring was The 3-mile loop trail to Mast­ trunks of palms are exit holes of the two-inch, blue-black, giant palm-boring beetle, an important water stop odon Peak offers spectacular views, Dinapate wrightii, who lives exclusively in palm oases. for prospectors, interesting geology, the The larvae of the Dinapate beetle spends about five years,chewing tunnels within miners, and team­ Mastodon Mine, and the trunk of a desert fan palm. The chewing is so loud that flickers use the noise to sters traveling from the Winona Mill locate the larvae. Successful larvae pupate within the trunk then chew their way out. Mecca to mines Site. And, for those Because their rear end is wider than their front end, they exit going backwards to in the notth. looking for a longer avoid getting stuck. Emerging in June, males and females mate and then die within Water was nec­ hike—eight miles a few weeks. Eventually these beetles can kill a palm, but they only inhabit older essary for gold round trip—and the trees. Giant palm boring beetles keep the palm population young and vibrant. The processing, so a largest stand of fan presence of these beetles is actually a sign of a healthy oasis. number of gold mills palms in the park, the were locared here. The remains of an Lost Palms Oasis trail is a sure winner. Palms stand straight and tall, looking proud and invincible. But they aren't. Any arrastra, a primitive type of gold mill, But you don't have to hike to enjoy place can be over loved. As you explore these oases of wonder, take care. Use existing can be found near the spring, and con­ Cottonwood Spring. This is one of the paths. Watch out for young palms—seedlings look like thick blades of grass. We do crete ruins mark the sites of two later best birding spots in the park; so bring not want the presence of people to be a sign of a declining oasis. gold mills in the area. your binoculars and sit a spell. The cottonwoods that give their name The campground, which has water to the spring are not native to this area. and restrooms, is located one-half mile Think Globally, Act Locally They were planted around the turn of from Cottonwood Spring via a signed Bring your aluminum and metal cans, glass, and the century by some early resident, and nature trail; there are also shaded picnic plastic to a campground recycling center. the palms were planted in the 1920s. tables in the campground. To learn more Share or recycle this Joshua Tree Guide when A number of hikes begin at Cotton­ about the plants, animals, and history of you have finished reading it. wood Spring. A short, easy walk down this fascinating place, join a ranger-led Cottonwood Wash leads past a second hike, walk, or campfire program, offered Participate in recycling in your community. oasis to a dry falls. In wet years, the falls most weekends. Emergency — dial 909-383-5651

The Weather The Desert Institute The Desert Institute is the educational branch of the nonprofit Joshua Tree National Park Association. We are proud to offer outdoor classes in science, history and the arts of Joshua Tree National Park and the Mojave Desert. Classes are taught by experts in their field and are offered on weekends, varying in length from one to three days. Optional college credit offered through UC Riverside*. Course fees vary from $45 to $150. Spring Classes Map & Compass Skills Feb. 9 - 10 Lander's Earthquake Fault Tour Mar. 3, or May 19 Native American Basket Weaving Skills Mar. 3-4 Nature Sketchbook Mar. 9-11 Trees & Shrubs of Joshua Tree NP* Mar. 16 - 18 Desert Survival Mar. 24 Flora of Joshua Tree NP* Apr. 6-8 Exploring Joshua Tree NP Backcountry Apr. 13 - 15 Uses of Native Desert Plants Apr. 21 The Desert Tortoise Day Apr. 28 Venomous Animals of Joshua Tree NP* May 4-6 Birds of Joshua Tree NP* May 11-13 Reptiles & Amphibians of Joshua Tree NP* May 18 - 20

Contact us for a brochure or to sign up for a course: www.joshuatree.org / Measurements were taken at 1,960 feet. You can expect seven to 12 degrees Tel. 760-367-5535 / Fax 760-367-5583 / Email: [email protected] cooler temperatures and 3.5 inches more precipitation at higher elevations. Rockpiles The geologic landscape of Joshua Tree slowly weathered to spheres of hard rock crearing those impressive rock piles we Of the dynamic processes that erode has long fascinated visitors to this desert. surrounded by soft clay containing loose see today, (figure 3) rock material, water, even in arid envi­ How did the rocks take on such fantastic mineral grains. Imagine holding an ice Visitors also wonder about the ronments, is the most important. Wind shapes? What forces sculpted them? cube under the faucet. The cube rounds "broken terrace walls" laced throughout action is also important, but the long- Geologists believe the face of our away at the corners first, because that is the boulders. These are naturally occur­ range effects of wind are small compared modern landscape was born more than the part most exposed to the force of ring formations called dikes. Younger to the action of water. 100 million years ago. Molten liquid, the water. A similar thing happened hete than the surrounding monzogranite, The erosional and weathering pro­ heated by the continuous movement of but over millions of years, on a grand dikes were formed when molten rock cesses operating in the arid conditions Earth's crust, oozed upward and cooled scale, and during a much wetter climate, was pushed into existing joint fractutes. of the present are only partially respon­ while still below the surface. These plu- (figure 2) Light-colored dikes formed as a mixture sible for the sculpturing of the rocks. ronic intrusions are a granitic rock called After the arrival of the arid climate of quartz and potassium minerals cooled The present landscape is essentially a col­ monzogranite. of recent times, flash floods began wash­ in these tight spaces. Suggesting the lection of relict features inherited from The monzogranite developed a system ing away the protective ground surface. work of a stonemason, they broke into earlier times of higher rainfall and lower of rectangular joints. One set, oriented As they were exposed, the huge eroded uniform blocks when they were exposed temperatures. roughly horizontally, resulted from the boulders settled one on top of another, to the surface. removal, by erosion, of the miles of over­ lying rock, called gniess (pronounced "nice"). Another set of joints is oriented vertically, roughly paralleling the contact of the monzogranite with its surround­ ing rocks. The third set is also vertical, but cuts the second set at high angles. The resulting system of joints tended to develop rectangular blocks, (figure 1) Good examples of the joint system may be seen at Jumbo Rocks, Wonderland of Rocks, and Split Rock. As ground water percolated down through the monzogranite's joint frac­ tures, it began to transform some hard mineral grains along its path into soft clay, while it loosened and freed grains resistant to solution. Rectangular stones Emergency — dial 909-383-5651

JUST HOW FAST IS A TORTOISE ANYWAY? Crunch, crackle. Crunch, crackle. happens the overturned tortoise must struct dens up to 30 feet in length—in cared for, and may have lost its instincts What's going on under that creosote right itself soon, or it will die from suf­ general, summer burrows are shallower to forage and protect itself from preda­ bush? Push aside the branches, peer focation, exposure to the sun, or freez­ and shorter. Because they are cold­ tors. Beyond that, tortoises are highly into the shade, and you may catch a ing. blooded, tortoises are not able to reg­ territorial and an intruder will not be glimpse of the animal I observed while Females generally behave less aggres­ ulate their body temperature internally. tolerated for long. Tortoises have good hiking in the park last spring: a desert sively than males, and may spend more Burrowing is an adaptation that miti­ vision and a good sense of smell, and tortoise, Gopherus agassizii, California's time underground since it is their task gates the effects of the desert's tempera­ they know their territory well. During state reptile. These unhurried creatures to nest and produce clutches of eggs. ture and moisture extremes, and protects its lifetime of 50 to 100 years, a wild make their home throughout the park, Females have, however, been observed animals from predators. Desert tortoises tortoise rarely moves more than a couple except in the steepest areas. Just how fast aggressively defending their nests from also dig depressions in the earth to catch of miles from its birthplace and is inti­ does a tortoise walk? (Answer at the end the unwelcome presence of other reptiles rainwater. They are able to store water mately familiar with the resources within of this article). If you see one you are and even park biologists! Tortoises may in their urinary bladder and significantly its territory. These resources are vital to fortunate: these animals spend almost 95 mate at any time of year, with the peak increase their body weight when tanking its survival, and may not support a new percent of their time underground! season from March through early Octo­ up after a good rainstorm. addition. Arguably the most-studied animal in ber. A female may retain viable sperm for If you see a tortoise in the wild, The aboriginal peoples who lived in the park, the tortoise was placed on both up to eight years after mating and still it is important not to pick it up. the western deserts were well acquainted the California and Federal Endangered with the tortoise. Although not all Species Lists in 1989 and 1990, respec-. groups would eat tortoise meat, it was tively. Its status is "threatened," just one generally prized for its food value. Some notch below "endangered." Several fac­ hunters lured tortoises onto the surface tors conspired to diminish the popu­ of the ground by placing a dish of water lation of the desert tortoise. As more at the opening of a burrow. Tortoises people moved into the western deserts, were then roasted in cooking pits lined the resultant loss of habitat made a seri­ with hot rocks. The shells were put to ous dent in the number of tortoises. a variety of uses: they served as bowls, With more people came more ravens, scoops, spoons, ladles, and were some­ large black birds with a keen appetite times ground into powder for medicinal for hatchling tortoises. The number of purposes. They were also used to make ravens has exploded in recent years, due ceremonial rattles: the carapace, or upper in large part to their ability to thrive in dome-shaped half of the shell, and the developed areas The factors contribut­ plastron, or flat underside of the shell, ing to their dramatic increase include were joined together after being filled more roads, thus more roadkill; landfills; with small stones or seeds. The openings powerline poles, an ideal lookout post lay fertile eggs at that point. The average Like a young child who may wet his at either end were plugged with pitch. for hungry ravens; and littering. Litter in number of eggs per clutch is five, and pants when afraid, a tortoise will "void" Tortoise motifs appear in desert rock the park attracts ravens, so please dispose they are usually laid from May through its bladder if frightened. This could art and in basketry and pottery. Several of your garbage responsibly. July. Several clutches may be laid annu have life-threatening consequences for creation stories feature a tortoise shell, Perhaps because of the release into ally, depending upon the availability of the animal it it is not able to replenish whose shape evokes the dome of the sky the wild of former pet tortoises during food and water. Eggs hatch anywhere its water supply Handling wild tortoises above the earth. the past several decades, a deadly bacte­ from 70 to 120 days later. The chromo is illegal undei the Endangered Species Biologists are currently studying the rial infection began to appear more and somes do not determine the sex of the Act The only reason for picking one desert tortoise living within Joshua Tree more frequently among wild tortoises. offspring. Rather, the incubation tem­ up is when the tortoise is on or near a National Park. Using measurements col­ Upper Respiratory Tract Disease attacks perature produces males or females road and is in imminent danger of being lected by such sophisticated equipment the tortoises respiratory system and can It is estimated that desert tortoises struck by a vehicle. If you must move as radio telemetry and GPS (Global be transmitted through sharing of bur­ have existed for 15 to 20 million years. one, grasp it firmly with two hands, keep Positioning System), they are gathering rows, or through human handling of tor­ Perhaps this long stint on Earth has it just a few feet above the ground, and information that allows us to increase toises. This can occur when a person given them plenty of time to consider place it gently on the ground (preferably our understanding of this threatened handles a sick tortoise and then unwit­ wise living strategies, such as careful, in the shade) in the same direction in desert reptile. tingly transmits the disease to a healthy slow-paced locomotion; a healthy diet which it was headed. Spring is a good time to spot a desert animal. Othei means of transmission full of greens; resting during winter and It is illegal to remove a tortoise from rorroise because the warm temperatures may include common tortoise behavior summer, the desert's most challenging the wild and bring it home as a pet. trigger an impulse to emerge from the such as head-bobbing, circling one seasons; and water conservation. The There are plenty of rescued tortoises burrow, forage, and look for mates. If another, chin gland sniffing, and biting. typical tortoise diet consists of grasses, looking for good homes. If you are inter­ you see one, please fill out a wildlife These are the tortoise's versions of shak­ wildflowers, cactus pads, and wild fruit. ested in adopting one, please contact observation card, available at visitor cen­ ing hands, hugging, exchanging pleasan- Occasionally a tortoise will eat bone one of the parks visitor centers or a ters and entrance stations. By slowing teries, and courting. If the greeters are material scavenged from mammal scat chapter of the California Turtle and Tor­ your pace, you will increase your chances both males, they sometimes proceed to as a means of obtaining calcium. Its toise Club. Do not release pet tortoises of catching a glimpse into the unassum­ more rough-and-tumble behavior. Using stumpy, elephantine legs end in sharp into the wild; they may carry a number ing world of the desert tortoise. the extended portion of the underside claws, which are adapted to walking of diseases. Even if a domesticated tor­ of the shell, or gular horn, males will in sand and to digging dens or burrows toise appears healthy it probably will not (Answer: average speed is 0.2 mphj engage in a form of jousting where the- used for both hibernation and estivation be able to fend for .tself after being purpose is to flip the opponent. If this (summer "hibernation"). Tortoises con dumped in the desert, It is used to being by Park Ranger Caryn Davidson EH Emergency — dial 909-383-5651

Publications to help you plan your visit to The Joshua Tree, Cornett. Up-to-date 100 Desert Wildflowers, Bowers. information about this symbol of the Color photos and easy-to-read text high­ Joshua Tree National Park mojave desert and namesake of a light some of the most common national park. 32 pages PB $6.95 wildflowers of the deserts in the south­ The following publications have been selected for their value in Growing Up at the Desert Queen west corner of America. planning your trip to Joshua Tree National Park. These items and Ranch, Keys, Kidwell. The true story of 56 pages PB $8.95 many more may be ordered by mail, telephone, FAX, or on the web the Keys family and their struggle to sur­ Shrubs and Trees of the Southwest from Joshua Tree National Park Association. vive on an isolated desert ranch in the Desert, Bowers. An easy-to-use guide 1920s and '30s. It is a look into a now full of descriptions and line drawings of lost American way of life. over 100 desert shrubs and trees. Getting to know Joshua Tree National Park 118 pages PB $14.95 140 pages PB $11.95 Road Guide to Joshua Tree National Recreation Map of Joshua Tree, Har­ Wildlife of North American Deserts, 70 Common Cacti. Colorful photo­ Park, Decker. Guides visitors on a driving rison. Colorful map of Joshua Tree Cornett. A concise introduction to the graphs and easy-to-read descriptions dem­ tour through the land where the Mojave National Park highlighting points of most commonly encountered animals in onstrate the unique beauty of the and Colorado Deserts meet. interest, campgrounds, picnic areas, topo­ the five North American Deserts. common cacti of the Southwest. 48 pages PB $5.95 graphic features, and backcountry roads 211 pages PB $8.95 70 pages PB $7.95 On Foot in Joshua Tree, Furbush. A and trails. $8.95 Desert Palm Oasis, Cornett. An explo­ Mojave Desert Wildflowers, Stewart. comprehensive hiking guide featuring 90 Trails Illustrated Topographic Map ration of the lush, water-loving fan palms Presents a condensed view of the nearly park hikes, 40 photos and illustrations, of Joshua Tree National Park. Includes that are such a wonderful surprise in 2,000 species of plants known to occur and 26 maps and reference charts. elevations, backcountry camping, hikes, harsh desert environments. throughout the Mojave Desert Region. 152 pages PB $11.95 routes, and safety. Waterproof and tear- 47 pages PB $9.95 210 pages PB $14.95 A Visitor's Guide to Joshua Tree, proof. $9.95 Watchable Birds of the Southwest, Poisonous Dwellers of the Desert, Cates. A delightful, informative guide Joshua Tree, The Story Behind the Gray. A full-color guide to 68 of the Dodge. This classic provides accurate, blending human and natural history. Scenery, Vuncannon. Full of color Southwest's fun-to-watch species, big useful information and debunks the Equally enjoyable by desert rats and first- photos and fascinating text, the perfect and small. Organized by habitat. many superstitions about poisonous time visitors. 100 pages PB $6.95 introduction to the park. 48 pages PB 187 pages PB $14.00 desert critters. 40 pages PB $6.95 Hiking California's Desert Parks, $7.95; $8.95 for French or German. Cunningham. Presents 111 hikes and Wildflowers of Joshua Tree. Pocket backcountry trips in Anza Borrego, Joshua guide to the common flowering plants of Tree, Death Valley, and Mojave. Joshua Tree National Park. Includes a map Education to enhance your visit to 373 pages PB $16.95 and over 50 color photographs to help Joshua Tree National Park The Joshua Tree, Gossard. An easy-to- with identification in the field. read book filled with fascinating facts and PB $.95 THE DESERT INSTITUTE OF JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK, the education program stoties about the symbol of the Mojave 50 Best Short Hikes, Krist. Covers of the Joshua Tree National Park Association, sponsors one and two day field Desert. 112 pages PB $9.95 Joshua Tree, Death Valley and Mojave. classes on weekends from September to July. Each class examines a natural or Joshua Tree Video. Excellent introduc­ Hikes range from easy nature trails to cultural feature of the Mojave Desert and is focused for teachers, volunteer tion to Joshua Tree National Park. 30 min­ more challenging routes suitable for a full interpreters, park visitors, and others interested in learning about the park and utes VHS $ 12.95; PAL $ 15.95 day of hiking. 204 pages PB $12.95 the Mojave Desert. College credit is available through University of California Riverside Extension.

On the Road in California MEMBERS OF THE JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK ASSOCIATION are automatically California Deserts, Schad. The Complete Guide to America's enrolled in Partners in Nature Education (PINE), which qualifies them to Color photographs of the California National Parks, Fodor's. receive a 20 percent discount on all Desert Institute classes, as well as, Desert Conservation Area, Mojave Up-to-date guide to all 376 National Park University of California Riverside Extention Outdoor Study courses. For infor­ National Preserve, Joshua Tree National Service sites. 448 pages PB $14.95 mation on becoming a Joshua Tree National Park Association member, call Park, Death Valley National Park, and California Roadmap. includes a list of 760-367-5535. Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. public recreational areas and places of 103 pages PB $14.95 interest. $2.95 A CATALOGUE OF DESERT INSTITUTE CLASSES is available at park visitor centers, or you may call 760-367-5535 and request one by mail. An electronic copy has California Historical Landmarks. The Living Desert, a musical journey been published on our website: www.joshuatree.org. Lists the location and significance of each exploring national parks and monuments of the 43 historical parks and 1,000 his­ through natural sounds. Excellent mood- torical landmarks established by the State setter for your driving tour of the of California. Southwest's desert areas. Tape $10.95, Ordering Information JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK 318 pages PB $14.95 CD $15.95. Telephone orders are encouraged to ensure that you are ordering the publica­ Life in the Desert tions best suited to your needs or order Desert Survival Handbook, Lehman. Geology Underfoot in Southern Cali­ from our website at www.joshuatree.org. JfT Explains how to deal with emergencies fornia, Sharp and Glazner. To order by mail, enclose check or credit that might arise in a desert environment. An inside view of the southland's often card number and expiration date. CA resi­ Filled with examples, narratives, and illus­ active, sometimes enigmatic, and always dents include 7.5% sales tax. NPA trations to aid understanding. interesting landscape. ASSOCIATION 91 pages PB $7.95 224 pages PB $14.00 Prices are subject to change without Indian Uses of Desert Plants, Cornett. Desert Solitaire, Abbey. notice. An informative account of the ways early The author's recollection of summers Postage & Handling Rates 74485 National Park Drive natives used a variety of desert plants for spent as a ranger in the canyon and U.S. & Canada: $6.00 for first item, Twentynine Palms, CA 92277 food, tools, building materials, and as an rim country of sourthem Utah, including each add'l item $0.50. voice: (760) 367-5525 integral part of their daily lives. 38 pages observations of the natural world. Foreign airmail: $8.00 for first item, fax: (760) 367-5583 PB $7.95 269 pages PB $13,00 each add'l item $2.00. www.joshuatree.org ED Emergency— dial 909-383-5651 SAVING THE PLANTS Joshua Tree National Park is embarking on a major, multi-year road construction cific plants some eight months later when we began the salvage work and to project (see article on page three). This project will provide greater safety and determine what kinds of resources we would need: personnel, shovels, pots, watering convenience to visitors, but it will also disrupt the landscape and result in the loss of cans, and traffic cones. plants. In order to lessen the effects ol the roadwork, Joshua Tree staff are using both After the Environmental Assessment was completed in June 2000, staff went to low- and high-technology methods to save the plants. work scraping off valuable soil surface organisms with flat shovels and five-gallon buckets. Although tedious, these organisms will help heal the soil's surface after construction, providing an important barrier to wind erosion and a trap for moisture and windblown seeds. We then proceeded to remove the small stuff: little cacti, foot high Joshua trees, and bunch grasses. But how do you move a 25-foot tree? a yucca with an eight-foot diameter? We quickly realized that the huge specimens would require something more than a sharp shovel. Our research turned up a contractor in California with a 94-inch tree spade and experience relocating mature trees. Combined with a backhoe, large trees and yucca clumps are easily moved into new locations. This heavy equipment has been working dawn to dusk since last October, operated by skilled contractors and park staff sensitive to both plant biology and Filling behind the backhoe after relocating a Mojave yucca. diesel machinery. While it is standard practice for national parks to incorporate habitat restoration In addition, vol­ into their development projects, the scale of the Joshua Tree effort is immense. unteers from Our attitude is "we want to save everything!..." and with good reason. Desert Americorps, Out­ plants don't just spring up overnight; they take years to mature and are an essential ward Bound,and component ol the environment, providing food and shelter for animals, holding the the Boy Scouts fine soil in place, and, of course, providing pleasure to visitors. have been helping Two years ago, restoration specialists began surveying, inventorying, and mapping with the digging. the construction area. They found several thousand plants growing within this As of Decem­ Preparing a yucca for boxing by shaving the root ball. area! Botanists painstakingly tagged each ber 2000, we had plant to be saved, selecting those species potted or boxed about 1,000 mature plants for storage, and 450 large Joshua trees that would have the greatest likelihood and Mojave yuccas have been relocated adjacent to the project site. The stored Joshua for survival and those that are the most trees, Mojave yuccas, cacti, native grasses, and valuable topsoil will be used to restore the construction areas after the roadwork is complete. In fact the vegetation crew will be replanting right behind the construction crew. Extra plants will be used to restore trampled areas in campgrounds, around abandoned mines, and on closed roadbeds. The park will be monitoring the transplants for survivability. Based on the information gath­ ered from this project, we hope to continue to improve restora­ tion techniques in Joshua Tree and share our methods

Joshua tree boxed up to await replanting. with other desert lands agencies. difficult to grow. Each ragged plant was identified by species name, height, diam­ eter, and exact location (using global positioning system technology) then the 12,000 gallon water tank for watering salvaged plants. information was logged into a computer database. This allowed us to locate spe­ Removing a Joshua tree with a tieespade. by Vegetation Specialist Jane Rodgers