Benchcrafted Glide Original Leg Vise Assembly and Installation Instructions Copyright, Benchcrafted 2008-2012 Version: November 2012 www.benchcrafted.com Contents: Quantity Description 1 Handwheel 1 1 1/4 precision acme screw 1 1 1/4 Acme Nut 1 Flange 1 Large washer 1 Groove pin for attaching handwheel to screw 1 Acetal bushing 8 1/4-20 x 1” button head cap screw 2 5/16-18 x 1-1/2 flat head machine screw 1 Rosewood handwheel knob with shoulder bolt 1 Thick washer for mounting the handle 1 Piece suede, enough to cover inside of chop and leg face Roller Bracket Hardware: 2 Ball-bearing guide rollers 2 Guide roller axles 3/8x1-3/4 steel dowel pin 1 3/8 x 8 Steel parallel-guide pin 1 1/8 x 7/8 stainless steel roll pin 2 10-24 x 1/2 set screw 4 3/8-16 x 3” socket head cap screw 4 3/8” washer 4 1/2” washer IMPORTANT! ! ATTENTION ! Read and understand the instruc- Make sure when printing the tem- tions completely and thoroughly plates that you turn off your printer’s before starting the installation or page scaling function. Then use the cutting into your bench. Confirm all 1” scale on the templates to confirm template measurements with your that the template is actual size. vise before installation. Do not be- gin installation without the vise and all hardware in your possession. 1 Unpacking your vise: Some parts, especially the handwheel, are heavy. Be careful as you unpack and handle them. Also be aware that although we make every effort to ease all edges, being machined parts you may encounter a sharp egde or burr. If you do, ease it with some fine abrasive paper or a fine file. Some components will have a rust preventa- tive oil applied. You should remove this oil before installing the vise. Wipe it off with a clean paper towel, fol- lowed by a clean towel with a bit of mineral spirits. This will leave a light film of oil on the parts that will help prevent rust and keep the parts moving smoothly. Follow the classic advice about disposal of oily rags. Assembly Instructions for Benchcrafted Tail and Glide Leg Vises The Benchcrafted Tail Vise and Glide Leg Vise ship unassembled. You will need to install three parts onto the 18” acme screw’s shaft: the washer, flange, and handwheel. It only takes about a minute. Note: your vise may arrive already assembled. Tools required: Small hammer smooth end Pin punch or large nail set fig. 1 1. Remove the handwheel, flange, large washer, 18” acme screw, groove pin and logo from the box and remove the VCI paper. 2. First, place a couple drops of light machine oil on the shaft end of the acme screw near the shoulder for lubrication, then slide the washer onto the shaft. 3. Next, slide the flange onto the shaft. IMPORTANT : Face the side with the two countersunk holes away from the screw. The countersinks need to face OUT once the vise is mounted in the bench.. 4. Slide the handwheel onto the shaft, lining up the cross hole in the handwheel’s hub with the cross hole in the shaft. Peer down into the hole and position the handwheel until the two holes line up precisely. 5. Get the groove pin, punch and hammer. Examine the groove pin. One end is smoothly round, with virtually no grooves. The grooves get wider as they reach the opposite end of the pin. See fig.1 6. Insert the SMOOTH END WITH NO GROOVES first into the cross hole in the hub and with finger pressure insert the pin until you feel it engage the hole in the shaft. If you can’t insert it far enough with finger pressure, use the hammer to lightly tap the pin to get it moving towards the shaft. Try to keep the hub in line with the cross hole in the shaft as you tap the pin in. Keep tapping the pin in until you feel a little resistance as the pin meets the hole in the shaft. Tap some more until you feel the pin engage the hole in the shaft. Now take the pin punch and place it on the head of the pin and finish driving the pin through the shaft and the opposite side of the hub. Use light taps. The fit is machined precisely, it doesn’t take much force. Do not over drive the pin, stop when its centered in the hub’s diameter. The flange should spin freely on the shaft and have a little bit of play in the fit. 2 The Glide can be installed in an existing bench with flush legs or installed in a new, unassembled bench. Installing in an existing bench is a bit more involved, and these instructions will cover both types of instal- lation. If you’re installing the Glide in a new, unassembled bench, the leg portion of the vise can be worked before the base is assembled (using a drill press, mortiser, etc.). These operations will be pointed out when applicable. For clarity, the benchtop, legs and rails will not appear in some of the illus- trations, but only when necessary. Initial layout The Glide can be mounted in a number of ways, and it’s up to you to determine the ultimate position and dimensions of the wood components of the vise. Few of the dimensions are critical, so there is some room for flexibility. Refer to the overview drawing for some basic dimensions that suit the Glide. For example, we find that an 8” wide chop works well and is wide enough for typical use. Depending on your bench base construction, you’ll need to determine the best place for the parallel guide mortise. Make sure you position it so it doesn’t interfere with or compromise your base joinery. Make sure any knockdown hardware, like a bolt, falls above or below the mortise, and also doesn’t interfere with the screws that hold the roller guides in place (see illustration above.) It’s best to layout the positions right on the actual bench leg before cutting anything. If you plan to make a custom handle for your parallel guide pin, make sure you place the parallel guide high enough (or the rail low enough in new bench construction) so the handle doesn’t interfere with the rail when placed in the lowest row of holes. You can place the roller guides as low as you want (this will increase the Glide’s holding power). Just keep them high enough that you can adjust the front guide easily. We recommend at least 1”up from the bottom of the leg. Remember, don’t compromise your base joinery with the parallel guide mortise. The vise will be plenty strong if you need to place the bottom roller a bit higher. You don’t want to place the parallel guide too high though either. This will make the vise 3 weaker. You want the distance from the top of the bench to the screw (we recommend 8-9” for typical benches) to be roughly 1/3 the distance from the top of bench to the parallel guide. Layout the Chop and Parallel Guide The first step is to build the vise’s chop and parallel guide. To determine the length of the parallel guide, first thread the nut fully onto the screw. Place the plate of the nut at the back of the leg and measure the distance from the front of the leg (this surface will become the inside chop of the vise) to the inside face of the mounting flange. The thickness of your leg and chop will determine the maximum capac- ity of the vise. In this example the length is 9- 3/8”. Use the following formula to determine the length of the parallel guide. Screw projection= 9-3/8” Subtract chop thickness - 2-3/4” = 6-5/8” Add leg thickness + 5” = 11-5/8 Add 2” for rear roller bracket +2” = 13-5/8” So 13-5/8” is the minimum length of the parallel guide from the inside of the chop to the end for this installation.Your length may be different. If you’d like to cut a decorative design into the end of the parallel guide you’ll need to add length for this. You’ll also need to add length for the tenon that joins the parallel guide to the chop. We recommend at least 1”. Build the chop and parallel guide For this bench we’re using a chop that’s 2-3/4” thick X 8” wide. A thick chop like this will have more mass and initial holding power, but a thinner chop around 1-3/4” is also acceptable. A thinner chop will have a bit of flex and allow a bit more clamping control because of this flex. We’ve used both with 4 good results. If you’d like to get more capac- ity out of the vise, opt for the 1-3/4” chop. But don’t go thinner than this. Use a strong hard- wood for both the chop and parallel guide. We like to use quartersawn white oak for the parallel guide for stability and strength. Orient the bark side of the chop towards the inside. If the chop should cup, a concavity here won’t be as problematic. It’s a good idea to use straight grain quartersawn wood for the parallel guide.