LEVI’S PICKS EUROPE HEAD/3 NEW FORMAT FOR MARIONNAUD/18 WWDWomen’s Wear Daily • The Retailers’TUESDAY Daily Newspaper • January 16, 2007 • $2.00 Ready-to-Wear/Textiles Opposites Attract LOS ANGELES — She may be newly single, but Cameron Diaz looked more romantic than ever at Monday night’s Golden Globes, hitting all the evening’s key trends along the way. Decked out in a white tulle gown with a black-jeweled belt from Valentino’s spring collection — which she topped off with vintage Cartier baubles — the presenter was the epitome of lovely. For more of the Golden Globes’ winning looks, see pages 4 and 5. Meet Bill McComb: Claiborne’s New CEO Up for the Challenge By Whitney Beckett NEW YORK — After a mere two months in the job, William L. McComb could be facing his first major crisis as the new chief executive officer of Liz Claiborne Inc. And it involves no less a customer than Federated Department Stores Inc. Sources said the $22.4 billion Federated is miffed that J.C. Penney plans to launch the Liz & Co. brand throughout its stores, which Federated feels denigrates the Liz Claiborne brand. Starting this spring, the Liz & Co. casual line will be sold exclusively in all 1,021 Penney’s stores. Sources said Federated may be looking to cut See An Insider’s, Page 8 PHOTO BY STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE PHOTO BY 2 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 WWD.COM Givenchy Homme Shifting Focus PARIS — In a move to put the spotlight back on scale productions, sometimes preceded by elab- WWDTUESDAY its suits and sportswear, Givenchy Homme said orate fi lms he commissioned. Ready-to-Wear/Textiles it would nix runway blowouts, and has scaled At a Savile Row exhibit last week during the back the role of Ozwald Boateng, the Savile Row Pitti Uomo trade fair in Florence, Boateng de- GENERAL tailor and reality TV star, WWD has learned. ferred questions about Givenchy to the compa- William L. McComb took the helm at Liz Claiborne as major changes at Boateng, who was named Givenchy Homme’s ny. However, he noted, “I’m going to be focusing 1 the retail and consumer level have left vendors scrambling to adapt. fi rst creative director in 2003, will now be a con- a lot on my own collection this year.” sultant for the French fashion house, owned by Based in London, Boateng burst onto the Givenchy Homme is nixing runway blowouts and has scaled back the LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton. men’s wear scene more than a decade ago with 2 role of Ozwald Boateng, the Savile Row tailor and reality-TV star. “Ozwald is still collaborating on this collec- his renegade tailored collection. His use of atyp- Armin Broger, ceo for Seven For All Mankind in Europe, the Middle East tion,” Marco Gobbetti, Givenchy’s chairman and ical colors and textures and pure chutzpah has 3 and Africa, has been named president of Levi’s Europe. chief executive offi cer, said. “The role has been made some of Savile Row’s old guard cry in their updated in line with the new strategy we have. Harris tweeds, but it helped elevate the Ghana Jeffry M. Aronsson, former ceo of Donna Karan, has formed a company It’s a consulting agreement.” native to the rarifi ed world of fashion thanks to 17 focused on acquisitions and brand development in the luxury market. Givenchy won’t stage a runway show during a client list that includes Jamie Foxx, Laurence Marionnaud Parfumeries, France’s top perfumery chain, is getting a men’s fashion week in Paris later this month. Fishburne, Daniel Day-Lewis, Anthony Hopkins, 18 makeover, which will cause competitors to rethink their retail concepts. Instead, it plans a still-life presentation on Jan. Russell Crowe and Keanu Reeves. 26 at Espace Commines. Boateng’s star quotient rose signifi cantly Boateng, known for his supersized person- last year when he starred in his own Sundance EYE ality and for mixing bespoke savoir faire with reality show called “The House of Boateng.” Stars spent their days and nights leading up to the Golden Globes at a cross-cultural references, showed his fi rst col- The eight-episode program tracked Boateng’s 6 fl urry of Hollywood parties from Chanel, HBO, Louis Vuitton and Gucci. lection for Givenchy Homme in July 2004. His launch in the U.S. Classifi ed Advertisements...... 21-23 Paris shows were typically high-energy, large- — Miles Socha and Courtney Colavita To e-mail reporters and editors at WWD, the address is fi rstname. [email protected], using the individual’s name. WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF ADVANCE MAGAZINE PUBLISHERS INC. COPYRIGHT ©2007 FAIRCHILD FASHION GROUP. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 193, NO. 11. WWD (ISSN 0149–5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, Sundays and holidays, with one Tumi Names David Chu Creative Head additional issue in January and November, two additional issues in March, May, June, August and December, and three additional issues in February, April, September and October) by Fairchild Fashion Group, which is a division of Advance Magazine Publishers Inc. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. Shared Services provided by By Sophia Chabbott Condé Nast Publications: S. I. Newhouse, Jr., Chairman; Charles H. Townsend, President/CEO; John W. Bellando, Executive Vice President/COO; Debi Chirichella Sabino, Senior Vice President/CFO; Jill Bright, Executive Vice President/Human Resources. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY, and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post Publications Mail TUMI IS SETTING SAIL WITH DAVID CHU AS Agreement No. 40644503. Canadian Goods and Services Tax Registration No. 886549096-RT0001. Canada Post: return its first mate. undeliverable Canadian addresses to: P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6 POSTMASTER: The travel accessories company, which saw re- SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615–5008. FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE tail sales for 2006 hit $350 million, has tapped the INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615-5008, call 800-289-0273, or visit Nautica founder to be its creative director. www.subnow.com/wd. Please give both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. First copy of new The South Plainfi eld, N.J.-based fi rm is banking subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions and reprint requests, that Chu, 52, will help rev up its women’s hand- please call 212-630-4274 or fax requests to 212-630-4280. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. To subscribe to other bag and accessories business, which, according to Fairchild magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.fairchildpub.com. Occasionally, we make our subscriber list chief executive offi cer Laurence Franklin, is “so available to carefully screened companies that offer products and services that we believe would interest our readers. If you do not want to receive these offers and/or information, please advise us at P.O. Box 15008, North Hollywood, CA 91615- underdeveloped.” 5008 or call 800-289-0273. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, In recent years, Tumi, which is known for its bal- OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, listic nylon luggage and men’s briefcases, has tried BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR to increase its women’s business by incorporating CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR a stylized leather handbag collection and creating DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY inventive logo-print patterns in bright colors for its A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. bags. Female consumers make up 30 percent of the company’s travel business. TUESDAY: Direction and Printsource, New York (through “The brand is at a stage where we’ve had con- Thursday). tinued growth,” said Franklin. “We’re at a size that we can work on a global level, and we hired David WEDNESDAY: Bread & Butter Barcelona (through Friday). to take us there.” The U.S. Labor Department releases the Producer Price Franklin added that Chu will bring on more Tumi’s Laurence Index for December. “creative horsepower,” pointing to his work at Franklin and The Federal Reserve Board releases the Beige Book Nautica — which he founded in 1983 and sold to David Chu. economic report. VF Corp. in 2004 for $104 million — and his nearly MITRA ROBERT PHOTO BY two-year-old company, DC Design International, The men’s wear line is sold at stores such as THURSDAY: The Labor Department releases the Con- which produces men’s suitings and some other Bergdorf Goodman and Saks Fifth Avenue. Chu is sumer Price Index for December. men’s categories. slated to open a bespoke men’s wear boutique on Burlington Coat Factory reports second-quarter Chu, a Taiwan native who was trained in ar- the ground fl oor of his Manhattan brownstone this sales and earnings. chitecture and found his way to apparel by the week and has aspirations to launch a women’s col- recommendation of a professor at the Fashion lection under the label sometime in the future. But SATURDAY: Fashion Market of San Francisco (through Institute of Technology, will continue to run DC. for now, Chu is looking forward to designing acces- Jan. 23). sories for the fi rst time. “[Since] the Eighties on the SUNDAY: The JA New York Winter Show and Blue, New women’s side [of the fashion busi- COMING THIS WEEK York (through Jan. 23). BRANDSMART, Inc ness], the accessories business has been pushed to the forefront,” said Chu. “There’s tremendous Serving the world of fashion for 20 years consolidation from the fashion side, but the accessories category In Brief has been on a tremendous uprise Call today and save time and money. in the past 10 years.” ● DANON LEAVING PRINTEMPS: Laurence Danon is stepping Landed Duty Paid and Sourcing Agent for all of Chu will also focus on men’s down as president of France’s Printemps, the department store design, especially with the tech- chain confi rmed on Monday after weeks of speculation that she South East Asia and the Far East. nology of materials, for which was eying the door. Danon, who is said to be leaving with a six- Tumi is well known. year pay package, will be succeeded in the interim by Martine 212-239-8626 Fax: 212-239-8627 [email protected] “My job is working with the Delzenie, who was buying director, as the chain recruits a LADIES • MENS • KIDS • TOPS • BOTTOMS • KNITS • SWEATERS existing Tumi team and [getting] replacement. Danon, often counted among Europe’s most in- everybody moving into a differ- fl uential women executives, was instrumental in positioning ent level of thinking,” said Chu. Printemps more upscale. She spearheaded projects such as the The fi rst fruits of Chu’s labor at so-called luxury fl oor at the chain’s fl agship on the Boulevard Tumi will be women’s handbags Haussmann in Paris and oversaw massive renovations in the and accessories, which will hit fashion and beauty departments. Danon leaves six months Tumi stores in June or July. The after the 17-store chain was sold by Gucci parent PPR to a pool company has approximately 70 of investors led by Italy’s La Rinascente chairman Maurizio international stores, including the Borletti, who wants to continue to modernize Printemps. U.S., and is also sold at department THE TIGER COMPANIES and specialty stores worldwide. ● MINNESOTA RIGHTS: Chico’s FAS said Thursday that it Tiger Button Co Inc - New York It is undecided whether there signed an agreement to acquire the franchise rights for the state Tiger Button (hk) Ltd - Hong Kong will be a cobranding effort to put of Minnesota for an undisclosed sum. The Minnesota franchise Tiger Button (India) Pvt Ltd. Chu’s name on the product. currently operates 12 Chico’s stores located within the state and Tiger Button BV - Amsterdam,The Netherlands Franklin, who has known Chu holds the entire territorial franchise rights. The acquisition, Tiger Trimming Inc - New York for years, said that eventually, which is expected to close in February, will include all existing Tel:(212) 594-0570 Fax: (212) 695-0265 Email:[email protected] Tumi’s women’s business could stores as well as the territorial franchise rights to Minnesota. match the men’s business. WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 3 WWD.COM DHL to Be a Sponsor Levi’s Appoints European President By Robert Murphy John Anderson, who replaced Phil Marineau as Levi’s global ceo last year, has been overseeing PARIS — Levi Strauss & Co. has tapped a new the European operations in the interim. For N.Y. Fashion Week European president, WWD has learned. Europe has been a vital but tricky market Armin Broger, currently chief executive offi cer for for Levi’s. Sales in the region fell 0.9 percent to By Sharon Edelson Seven For All Mankind in Europe, the Middle East $215.4 million in the third quarter of last year, and Africa, has been selected to take Levi’s top spot Levi’s said. Earlier in the year, the company said NEW YORK — DHL, the in Europe, which has been vacant for almost a year. it would stop selling the value Signature brand global transport com- The 45-year-old Italian, who is noted for sharp in Europe, which had been distributed in hyper- pany, has signed with managerial skills and a savvy, energetic business markets like Carrefour, because it did not offer IMG Fashion to be a sense, could not be reached for comment. enough expansion opportunities. sponsor of IMG’s U.S.- “Armin is an exceptional brand builder and The core Levi’s brand has also been challenged by based events, including apparel executive with a reputation for leading robust competition in the designer denim category. In Mercedez-Benz Fashion successful operational turnarounds,” said John the past, Levi’s has looked to Europe to test its more Week here next month. Anderson, Levi’s ceo. “He knows what it takes to fashion-forward products such as Engineered jeans. The sponsorship is be successful in the European markets and will be Part of Broger’s task will certainly be to shore part of DHL’s strategy an invaluable partner in continuing the transfor- up the key Levi’s brand, which represents 90 per- to embrace the $250 bil- mation of our business there.” cent of the region’s business, while also capitaliz- lion fashion industry, Levi’s top job in Europe has been vacant since ing on the success of the Dockers label in Europe. said Karen M. Jones, last February, when the denim company’s previ- Before joining Seven For All Mankind, Broger senior vice president of ous European chief Paul Mason became chief headed Tommy Hilfi ger in Europe. Prior to that corporate and market- executive of U.K. supermarket chain Somerfi eld. he was chief operating offi cer at Diesel. ing communications at DHL Americas. “[Fashion] is too large DHL will be an industry to ignore in a sponsor of terms of shipping and Mercedes-Benz Bebe Taps Rebecca Romijn for Ads logistics,” she explained. Fashion Week. “We’re doing this to By Emili Vesilind Rebecca’s always represented someone who is a build brand awareness very natural, sexy, self-confi dent woman.” and imagery. There’s ebe Stores Inc. has yet another — slightly Scott said Barton’s contract with bebe was al- also the overall revenue potential.” Bolder — new face. ways intended to be fi nite. “We always knew we DHL is replacing UPS in the delivery category. The company has hired model-turned- would sign someone new in a year,” he said. The company, which has been shipping fashion around the actress Rebecca Romijn to succeed “Mischa did an amazing job for the world for years, started an apparel practice in 2006 to target the Mischa Barton as the marketing company and gave us a lot of pres- sector. The company offers fulfi llment services, supply-chain symbol of its bebe contemporary ence,” he said. management, global sourcing and retail logistics. “Designers brand. Earlier, the retailer Romijn, whose modeling are having samples made outside the U.S. and need to get them named actress Eva Longoria to career included two Sports quickly to the showroom fl oor,” Jones said. “We’re able to quick- be the face of its activewear Illustrated covers and a stint ly expedite products and services for industries like fashion.” division, Bebe Sport. hosting MTV’s “House of In addition to having its name connected with fashion week, The signings of the thirty- Style” series, is best known DHL will have a physical presence at the Bryant Park tents somethings — Romijn is 34, for her role as the shape- with The Pick-Up Spot, a satellite center for international and Longoria, 31 — might sug- shifting Mystique in the “X- domestic shipping where espresso will be served. gest the company’s intent Men” movie franchise. Last “From a branding perspective, we love the cachet that goes to market to a slightly older month, ABC announced that along with this industry,” Jones said. “It’s a very sexy, high-pro- customer (Barton is 20). But Rebecca Romijn would join the cast of fi le industry. The interesting thing for us is that while we love chief executive offi cer Greg Romijn its “Ugly Betty” series. the brand prominence and cachet, it makes absolute sense.” Scott said bebe’s target de- “I have always been im- DHL especially liked one of IMG’s new initiatives, which mographic, 25- to 35-year-old pressed with the strong, sexy involves bringing a version of fashion week live to six to eight women, will remain constant. and confi dent image that refl ects cities this year. The events will be open to consumers, who will “We never thought of Mischa as the bebe brand,” Romijn said in a have the opportunity to buy tickets. “It will extend our reach to her character on ‘The O.C.,’ ” he said. statement. “I am thrilled and proud other cities,” Jones said. “We portrayed her as more of a woman to be working with them.” DHL’s other global units have been involved with fashion in our images. With Rebecca, we’ll keep her in Scott declined to detail terms of the deal. events in Singapore, Australia and India. that same genre.” Advertisements will launch mid-April in magazines, The company has a one-year agreement with IMG with an The process of signing Romijn and Longoria on billboards and through direct mail, a month option to renew. Jones said DHL will run fashion-related ads was lengthy. “It sometimes takes a year to choose after Longoria’s campaign is to appear. Romijn will in magazines. There also will be billboards and other outdoor [a spokeswoman],” Scott said. “You have to meet make her fi rst offi cial appearance for the brand in signage in Manhattan. She compared the fashion week sponsor- with them many times to make sure there’s a con- the front row of the collection bebe runway show ship with DHL’s involvement with Major League baseball and nection between the person and the brand.…I think during Los Angeles Fashion Week in March. the U.S. Olympic team. “We want to fi nd moments that are meaningful to our target audience,” Jones said. “We want to be aligned with things that provide deeper experiences.’’ Martine Sitbon Returning With Rue du Mail By Robert Murphy “I’m still the same designer with Chan, he asked for a list of as I was in the past, and I have music the designer was listening PARIS — Martine Sitbon, a stal- the same sensibility, but now it’s to so we “would be on the same Seven For All Mankind Names wart of the fashion scene here updated for today’s mood,” she wavelength.” known for tempering a feminine said, adding that she planned “We both share a love of sensibility with a rock edge, is to show her fi rst designs on the music,” said Chan, speaking in making a comeback two years runway during the upcoming the fi rm’s sprawling, under-con- VF Vet Chief Financial Offi cer after her namesake house was Paris ready-to-wear season. struction headquarters. even For All Mankind has wooed another VF Corp. veteran forced to close. “I believe Martine has a lot to When finished, the 7,000- Sto its executive ranks and is making moves to overhaul its The new venture will be called give,” said Chan, 33, who made square-foot space will house the European management. Rue du Mail — as Sitbon’s prior the investment via a company creative studio, administrative Eric Artz, who spent 16 years with VF, will join the Vernon, partner, Shamzie of South Korea, called Semiotics, based in Hong offi ces and a store, which should Calif.-based premium denim manufacturer as chief fi nancial offi - still owns the rights to her name Kong. He described Semiotics as open by July. cer. Former cfo Dennis Kelly has moved to Europe to become cfo — and is being fi nanced by Hong a graphic design fi rm that serves “We both share the same goals,” and chief operating offi cer of Seven For All Mankind Europe. Kong investor Jimmy Chan. as a creative platform to develop said Chan. “I believe in fostering Artz is the second VF alum to make the move to Seven in the Chan will hold a 70 percent other interests. His clients range creativity. I want to learn from last six months. In August, Mike Egeck left as president of VF’s majority share, while Sitbon from Motorola to EMI, and he runs Martine as much as I want to sup- outdoor coalition, which includes the Vans, JanSport, Eastpak, will have a 20 percent stake two Evisu shops in Hong Kong. port her. What I like about Martine Napapijri, The North Face and Reef brands, to take over as and Yasuo Umetada, the for- Chan has a history in retail. is that she is very authentic.” Seven For All Mankind’s chief executive offi cer. mer European head of Yohji While living in Toronto in his Umetada said his goal was to Artz’s appointment was part of a larger executive restructur- Yamamoto, will own 10 percent. early 20s he bought a streetwear land between 60 and 100 accounts ing. The company also announced that the ceo of its European Umetada has been named boutique called Uncle Otis from for the debut season, which will business, Armin Broger, has left the company. He will not be re- president of the brand, the name Roger O’Donnell, the keyboard- focus on women’s rtw with a smat- placed. Ivo Nalin, who has previous experience with Fornarina of which is derived from the ad- ist of The Cure. tering of accessories. He said four and Nike, has been named director of sales and marketing for dress of its headquarters at 5 Rue A fashion fan, he then trav- collections a year are planned, and the company’s European business and will report to Egeck. du Mail on the Right Bank here. eled to Europe and persuaded that accessories would be a prior- “We have been fortunate to be able to leverage our key ex- Sitbon characterized the col- Comme des Garçons and Yohji ity for growth. Men’s wear could be ecutives’ strengths in capacities that are very important to the lection as high-end and geared Yamamoto to sell their wares to introduced in the near future. growth of the company,” Egeck said in a statement. “Each posi- to the same clientele who gravi- a new shop he opened, called “We may have lacked a strong tion has been well thought out and is a strategic move to support tated to her former designs. She Otis. “It was important for me to management team in the past,” our aggressive growth initiatives in the U.S. and in Europe.” said it would mix her proclivity fi nd a partner with whom I share said Sitbon. “Now that we have — Ross Tucker for Parisian chic with a tougher the same culture,” said Sitbon. that in place, I am very confi - point of view. She noted that during the deal dent for the future.” 4 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 Bipolar

BEVERLY HILLS — Before there was Technicolor, Hollywood had little choice but to be all about black and white. But it was a bit of surprise that award show fashion went back to its graphic roots Monday evening at the 64th annual Golden Globes at the Beverly Hilton here, with a slew of celebrities clad in either drapey white columns or sleek black gowns. While white is often considered the most unsafe color for the red carpet, many ac- tresses pulled it off with clean and simple lines, balancing it out with loose, wavy hair. “All you need with a white dress is a tan and diamonds and you’re good to go,” said “Heroes” starlet Ali Larter. Drew Barrymore clearly got the bling memo, sporting a gigantic rock on her fi nger courtesy of Leviev. “Have you ever?” she gasped. “I mean, defi nitely the pumpkin is pulling up at midnight with security.” Of course, there were a few dark divas, too: Jennifer Lopez in Marchesa, Penélope Cruz in Chanel Haute Couture, Cate Blanchett in Alexander McQueen and Sharon Stone in Dior all made chic statements in black. And this being Tinseltown, there were a few gray areas as well, most notably Angelina Jolie in a custom St. John gown and “Bobby” star Svetlana Metkina in a gunmetal Atelier Versace sheath. Why gray? According to the latter, “It’s going to be big next year.”

Jennifer Hudson in Vera Wang and Fred Leighton.

Kate Winslet in Azzaro and Chopard.

Sienna Miller in Marchesa and Cartier.

Cate Blanchett in Drew Emily Blunt Alexander Barrymore in in vintage Ellen Pompeo McQueen Dior Haute Renée Hervé Léger in Versace and Couture by Zellweger and Lorraine and Fred Lorraine John Galliano in vintage Schwartz. Leighton. Schwartz. and Leviev. Dior. WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 5 WWD.COM

Penélope Cruz Meryl Streep in Chanel Haute with daughter Couture and Louisa, both in Chopard. Carolina Herrera. KER BY DONATO SARDELLA DONATO KER BY

Angelina Jolie in St. John and Bochic with Brad Pitt.

What’s an actress to do when she’s called IMAGES; PAR MICELOTTA/GETTY FRANK HARRISON/GETTY BY FRAZER IMAGES; FERRERA BARRYMORE BY BLANCHETT, STEVE GRANITZ/WIREIMAGE; BY on at the last minute to be a presenter at the Golden Globes? Well, for Sarah Jessica Parker, the show must go on — even if it meant skipping the red-carpet parade. Parker’s original choices for hair and makeup were unavailable earlier in the day, so she decided to SILVER wait for the team she wanted, then STREAK jumped into a car at the Peninsula Hotel and whisked over to the awards at the Beverly Hilton just in time to introduce “The Devil Wears Prada.” Meanwhile, her friend L’Wren Scott took only a Reese week to pull together Witherspoon an outfi t — a silver in Nina Ricci silk jacquard sheath America by Olivier and coat, worn with Sarah Jessica Ferrera in Theyskens Helen Mirren in Verdura jewelry, Parker in Brian Reyes and Van custom Donna which Parker shows L’Wren Scott and Fred Cleef and Karan and off here exclusively and Verdura. Leighton. Arpels. Chopard. for WWD. CRUZ, MIRREN, WINSLET, JOLIE PHOTOS BY KEVIN WINTER/GETTY IMAGES; STREEP, HUDSON, POMPEO, BLUNT, MILLER, ZELLWEGER, WITHERSPOON ZELLWEGER, MILLER, BLUNT, HUDSON, POMPEO, KEVIN WINTER/GETTY IMAGES; STREEP, JOLIE PHOTOS BY CRUZ, MIRREN, WINSLET, 6 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007

Naomi Watts Round Robin and Isla Fisher The Golden Globes weekend of parties kicked off Thursday night with a trio celebrating — naturally — fashion. On Rodeo Drive, David Yurman feted the opening of his Yabu Pushelberg-designed West Coast fl agship with Hilary Duff and Amber Valletta, who ad- mitted she’d stopped by the day before to “play with jewelry,” and that night, had her eye on a large green opal couture ring with tsavorite. Perhaps she wanted it to wear with her short black Chanel frock, chosen in honor of the splashy dinner the French fashion house was throwing at Chateau Marmont an hour later. The parlor’s sofa and chairs were cleared out to make way for two long tables that each sat 40, including the likes of hostess Sienna Miller, Cameron Diaz, Dustin Hoffman, Lindsay Lohan, Harvey Weinstein, Kate Bosworth, Evangeline Lilly, Rachel Bilson and Jaime King. “You know, we may not remember this night,” Hoffman joked to Diaz before sitting down to dinner. Miller, however, couldn’t sit still for long, popping out onto the patio every few minutes. “Sorry, I am just dying for a cigarette,” she said impishly. Her admiring dinner partners Jonny Lee Miller and Jack Huston didn’t seem to mind. Jessica Biel But Chanel didn’t get all the starlets — another bevy, including Ali Mary-Kate in Ferragamo Larter, Rebecca Gayheart, Shiva Rose and Monet Mazur, were on hand at Olsen at the Critics’ Sunset Tower for W magazine’s “A Hollywood Affair.” Choice At Louis Vuitton’s Rodeo Drive boutique the next day, Irena Medavoy hosted a Awards. luncheon where Wendi Murdoch, Cheryl Tiegs, Melanie Ellison, Liane Weintraub and 30 other ladies nibbled on chef Ludovic Lefebvre’s dover sole and sipped Krug Champagne as the spring collection made its American debut. “You Paula know, I used to be a Cristal girl, but I have a new favorite,” purred Medavoy. Patton Later that night, the Broadcast Film Critics paid homage to their in Gucci. favorites at the Critics’ Choice Awards at the Santa Monica Civic Auditorium. Wrapped in Chanel, Rinko Kikuchi used a translator to answer reporters’ questions in Japanese. However, when asked who her favorite designers are, she quickly replied, “Karl Lagerfeld, Balenciaga, Comme Des Garçons. So many.” She cited “sleep” as her prep routine. Christian Slater, sporting Dolce & Gabbana, teasingly followed suit, giving the press a rundown of his pre-awards regimen: “Curlers. Push-ups. Sit- ups. The whole deal.” Those who didn’t walk the red carpet headed to the Gucci and Vanity Fair party, which drew guests like Paula Patton, Zooey Deschanel and Camilla Belle. On Saturday night, while Aussies like Naomi Watts and Isla Fisher partied away at Penfold’s Australia Week Gala, the rest of Hollywood was at either Irena and Mike Medavoys’, the Chateau Marmont, or the ultraexclusive bash Sting threw at the Hollywood burlesque club 40 Deuce. Dennis Quaid Medavoy rang in the Russian New Year at her and her husband’s Beverly Park estate. performing at Cameron “Who the heck are all these people?” asked Sarah the Medavoys. Diaz in Paulson. She must not have looked hard enough, Chanel. because among the crowd were Leonardo DiCaprio, the Tr u m p s (Donald and Melania), Heidi Klum and Seal, Georgina Chapman, Vanessa Getty and Sheryl Crow. Along with shots of vodka and piles of Beluga caviar, guests were treated to a performance by Russian dancers, followed by a very loud (and barefoot) Dennis Quaid and the Sharks. “I’m just waiting for the DJ to come back on,” mouthed Liane Weintraub over the din. But that was nothing compared to the noise once again emanating from the Chateau Marmont, where Kelly Clarkson’s “Since U Been Gone” blasted as Ginnifer Goodwin, Anna Paquin and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen mingled at HBO head Colin Callender’s an- nual pre-Globes party. June Newton, Helmut’s widow, took refuge in the restaurant with Eva Chow, while PYTs like Joy Penélope Cruz in Dolce Bryant and Gia Coppola partied in the garden. Meanwhile, & Gabbana at the Globes nominee Helen Mirren was being fawned over Critics’ Choice Awards. by friends and fans alike for her performance in “The Queen.” “It is my weekend, isn’t it?” she said grandly.

Heidi Klum, Irena Marisa Medavoy and Seal. Tomei at HBO.

Amy Adams and Selma Blair with Camilla Lindsay Lohan Belle in in Chanel. Gucci. WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 7 WWD.COM

Monet Kate Bosworth Rebecca Mazur in Chanel. Gayheart in in Jenni Lela Rose. Kayne.

Rachel Bilson in Ginnifer Chanel. Goodwin in vintage.

Sienna Miller in Chanel.

Ali Larter in vintage Hervé Léger.

Zooey Amber Rinko Kikuchi Hilary Duff in Deschanel Valletta in in Chanel at the vintage Alaïa. in Gucci. Chanel. Chanel dinner. YURMAN PHOTOS BY TYLER BOYE; W MAGAZINE, CHANEL AND HBO BY DONATO SARDELLA; LOUIS VUITTON SARDELLA; LUNCH LOUIS DONATO W MAGAZINE, CHANEL AND HBO BY TYLER BOYE; YURMAN PHOTOS BY JOHN SHEARER/WIREIMAGE BY WEEK PARTY ALEX BERLINER/BEIMAGES; AUSTRALIA BY GUCCI PARTY AND PARTY, 8 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 An Insider’s Outsider: McCo Continued from page one back space for the Claiborne brand as the retailer focuses William L. McComb more on exclusive collections and its private label busi- ness — or it could drop Claiborne’s licensed products. When asked in December about whether Federated was considering dropping the Liz Claiborne brand, McComb responded, “You would have to ask Federated, but I would be surprised if that was the case because it is a longstanding and important relationship for both of us.” A spokesman for Federated said, “Liz Claiborne will continue to be an ongoing brand at Federated,” but declined to comment further. The industry will be watching closely as to how the new ceo uses his marketing background, resounding optimism and team-building philosophy to deal with Federated’s pique — and the impact it will have on the company’s core Liz Claiborne brand, which has been struggling for several years. McComb, who previously was a group president at Johnson & Johnson, fi nds him- self in one of the highest-profi le jobs in the apparel in- dustry at a time when retail consolidation, private label and changing consumer preferences have left vendors scrambling to adapt. The Liz Claiborne brand makes up about a quarter of the parent company’s sales, and after the brand reported about 19 percent year-over-year declines for 2005, analysts worry — despite a new designer and a stepped-up market- ing campaign that are starting to yield results — that the manufacturer’s fl agship brand may continue slipping. But McComb holds up the Claiborne label as a model for how marketing can reenergize a product, with its new design team and heavily promoted “Liz Is” cam- paign. And as a brand builder and marketer, McComb is ready to lead more such initiatives. “Marketing is a great card to be played,” McComb said. “There are places where we haven’t used marketing to play the role it should. Liz Claiborne is a key example. I have a lot of energy for doing a lot more of that [type of makeover campaign]. As a real marketer, name any one of our brands, and I will tell you there is a real opportunity.” As for other subsidiaries, McComb cites Prana and Kenzie as brands that could benefi t from a fresh market- ing campaign. He considers Mexx a success abroad and dismisses what some see as failure closer to Claiborne headquarters. In the States, 11 Mexx stores opened ini- tially but only four now remain, primarily in street-based urban areas, as opposed to mall locations. “Our emphasis has not been the U.S. market,” McComb said. “We have not launched Mexx here yet or turned on the marketing.” Mexx may be getting that marketing attention under McComb, as will the newly acquired Kate Spade, which promises to receive the care at Claiborne that it missed out on while owned by Neiman Marcus. “There is a very strong vision at Kate,” McComb said. “We like the affordable luxury segment. We like that it is anchored in accessories. We like that it has [customer] permission to do apparel. We like that it can grow retail and direct-to-consumer segments.” But as it expands, don’t expect to see Kate Spade dif- fusing its products and going the way of Very Vera, an exclusive line Vera Wang is launching with Kohl’s for fall. “We want to blow out the market segment it is in. We didn’t buy it for a passage into another place,” he said of Spade. “We will be true to the brand idea.” McComb points to Kate Spade, which Claiborne ac- quired in November, as proof the group can compete with private equity and other manufacturers in acquisi- tion mode. “We are the guys who did it fi rst,” by buying such brands as Juicy Couture, said McComb. It’s hard to tell if he’s as acquisition-happy as his pre- decessor Paul Charron, but McComb is certainly look- ing. As head of Claiborne, he will continue to acquire companies that can do four things: “build brand plat- ANTONOV PASHA PHOTO BY forms, bring capabilities, expand internationally and even own retail.” management who have left. 1992, he began his career with J&J as an assistant prod- And in a clear reversal of the buy-buy strategy of his pre- In short, he’s not afraid to admit he has a lot to learn uct director, the fi rst position in a trajectory that took him decessor, McComb is not adverse to shedding brands that before he publishes the McComb manifesto. through the ranks at the pharmaceutical company. do not make the cut, though he said he has not identifi ed Some of his ideas for the future of Claiborne may Tony Vernon, retired company group chairman at J&J, any so far. “A good strategy is to acquire and divest. Anyone come from his very fi rst job. The industry outsider is witnessed McComb take over four different J&J assign- worth their salt would say that,” he said. “Obviously, we eager to show he is “the horse for the course” — a favor- ments. Vernon said he met McComb in 1995 at a cocktail don’t want to shrink our way to greatness, though.” ite expression — to head the company, so in addition to party for rising stars at J&J, when McComb was the head Besides those general business strategies, two talking up his background as a brand builder and market- of the Clean & Clear brand, and Vernon took McComb months into the job, McComb has no set agenda, and he er, McComb, 44, reminisces about his glory days fresh out with him as they climbed through the company. “I recruit- said he does not plan to until at least June, if not later of Miami University of Ohio when he worked for a year ed him away from that job for the Pepcid launch because in the summer. “2007 is what we would call a transition as a shoe department head at Lazarus. He even talks like I was so impressed by him,” Vernon said. “Leadership year,” he said. “I think it is a mistake for a new ceo to be a garmento — a highly educated garmento, mind you. leaked out his body — it was just so apparent.” led into a 90-day change agenda. Those same analysts “If you work in a department store for one year, the In 1995, McComb joined J&J•Merck as group product who look for that will punish you for it later.” language never leaves you,” McComb said. “But I left director. He moved to the McNeil Consumer Products Instead, he is doing lots of listening. He said he’s that world then.” Co. division and was named its vice president of mar- been meeting with employees at all levels (stopping After his brief retail stint at Lazarus, McComb got his keting in 1999. In July 2001, he was tapped as president by their offi ces instead of calling them into his), with M.B.A. from the University of Chicago Graduate School of of McNeil Consumer Healthcare, and three years later customers, with founders of companies Claiborne has Business. Post-grad school, he worked at Leo Burnett in he assumed additional responsibilities as president of acquired, with retired industry veterans and even with Chicago, handling advertising for Procter & Gamble. In McNeil Consumer & Specialty Pharmaceuticals and WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 9 WWD.COM mb Plots Claiborne’s Future “I had begun to get calls about running a company on training academy for the industry,” many of its leaders al- the outside a few years ago, and in my mind, I made ready had been poached: Angela Ahrendts resigned as ex- the decision only to go for a company that had the same ecutive vice president in October 2005 to head Burberry; rock-solid principles as Johnson & Johnson. I got the Gail Cook, group president of bridge brands, left in 2004 to call to meet the board at Liz Claiborne, and the lights start her own consulting fi rm and then was named presi- went off. The board swept me off my feet with their dent of Kellwood’s David Meister brand; Denise Johnston, vision for the company. I was probably a surprise for president and chief merchandising offi cer for the better them, but the board looked past the industry.” and moderate division, left to become president of Gap Kay Koplovitz, a longstanding Claiborne board mem- Adult in April but left Gap on Friday, and Bob Negrón, a ber who took over as chairwoman on Jan. 1, said the group president at Liz Claiborne Inc. for more than seven courting process “was conducted at a measured pace, years, resigned his post last June to pursue other interests. as there were several candidates given careful consid- But there is one employee today who stands at the eration.” She added, “Ultimately, Bill stood out as the top of the list of those McComb wants to keep: Claiborne leader we sought to refi ne the company’s growth strat- president Trudy Sullivan, who has the merchant skills egy, unlock the talent within, identify new market op- McComb lacks and who was said to be the inside candi- portunities and drive growth for Liz Claiborne Inc.” date for the ceo post. In addition to his “inclusionary management style” “He’s there to be a leader. He’s not a merchant,” and enthusiasm, the board saw McComb’s J&J experi- Stephens of Morgan Keegan said. “The concern I have is ence as an asset for the apparel giant. “During his ten- that he is not a merchant. In the apparel industry there ure at Johnson & Johnson, Bill oversaw some of that are a lot of gray areas, and the concern could be that he company’s largest, most successful consumer product sees in black and white. If that does prove to be correct, businesses and brands,” Koplovitz said, “and he brings people will start screaming, ‘He is not a merchant.’ ” valuable experience in the areas of brand-building, con- McComb is quick to sing Sullivan’s praises and, by sumer marketing, especially to women, international all accounts, has been nurturing his relationship with and supply chain.” his second-in-command. “Our skills are so complemen- McComb’s tenure at J&J was less tary,” McComb said. “Certainly, she about pharmaceuticals and more has skills as a merchant that I will about marketing and management, never have. But our leadership val- contend those who know him. There’s something ues are so aligned, and philosophi- “Tylenol is not just a health care “ cally we are aligned.” product. It is one of the iconic brands to be said for being The two trade compliments in their in America,” Vernon refl ected. “Bill new relationship. “We’re not here believes in creating enduring global kicked out of your to be redundant to each other. It’s a brands. He doesn’t believe in mature team sport: You need more than one brands — it may be tired marketers. comfort zone. But I to play,” Sullivan said. “He has a very The strength he brings in brand build- fresh perspective. He has no baggage ing translates well across industries.” have learned that all in this industry, and he is not bringing McComb does not consider him- any preconceived notions with him.” self a pharmaceutical guy. Or a drug businesses are alike Sullivan was named president of guy. Or a fashion guy, for that matter, Claiborne last January when Charron though he has always liked fashion. and face the same revealed his plans to retire at the He confi des his high school senior end of 2006 and was the sole internal class voted him Most Stylish. Today kind of challenges. candidate considered for the ceo job. his penchant is for British labels — She joined Claiborne in 2001 as group Thomas Pink, Paul Smith, Ted Baker You’d be surprised at president of Liz Claiborne Casual, — as he fancies the bold colors and Collection and Liz Claiborne Woman, patterns, plus the slim fi t suits his how much business is and the next year was named an ex- frame, which he vigilantly keeps trim ecutive vice president with addition- since he spent years devising warn- like business. al responsibility for accessories, cos- ings for pharmaceutical packaging ” metics, retail, outlet and licensing. and dealing with the medical world. — William L. McComb Since 2005, Sullivan has overseen all But for his portrait as the new of the company’s brands. maestro for one of fashion’s biggest fi rms, McComb Sullivan has a restricted stock grant that provides chose to wear the company line: a Claiborne navy pin- her with 32,300 shares — worth almost $1.5 million at striped suit and a cream-colored ribbed turtleneck. current value — half of which vest in the fi rst quarter “I love to shop, and I have always. I love going to drug of 2007 and the other half on Jan. 2, 2008, according to stores, grocery stores, mass merchants. I shop at Macy’s, Claiborne’s 2006 proxy and 10-K. Neiman Marcus, Bloomingdale’s, Saks. I shop it all,” “I have enjoyed his approach in his initial weeks, and McComb explained. “I’m an aesthetic guy. I love art. I love I am very optimistic,” Sullivan said. “He’s very respect- a beautiful home. I love buying jewelry for my wife.” ful. It’s been very grown up how this has gone down. I The house in question is in Bucks County, Pa. The actually think I have one of the best jobs in the industry. jewelry recipient, Marianne McComb, “was already on I am just a year into this job as president, and you can’t board with many of the brands and is especially excited get everything accomplished in a year.” about Prana,” McComb said of his spouse, a writer of McComb seems committed to creating an environ- school textbooks. For their part, the three McComb boys ment that encourages Sullivan to remain part of his (ages 13, 15 and 18) “are oblivious, though they are re- team. “You can say this is an arranged marriage and will ally into Lucky Jeans.” it work out?” he added. “I’ve grown up fi guring out how McComb himself is excited about the people and the to keep the good ones like Trudy Sullivan.” business possibilities of breathing new life into a com- Former J&J chairman Vernon called McComb a “pied pany some fear is in danger of becoming “mature” — a piper,” and Brian Perkins, president of McNeil, said his deadly word in the industry. former colleague has a talent for cultivating and pre- In his fi rst week on the job, Claiborne held an off-site serving talent when he joins a new team. leadership meeting, where McComb asked everyone Perkins has known McComb for almost 15 years. there to send him a note about the company’s strengths They were fi rst colleagues at J&J, and then he recruited Ortho Women’s Health & Urology. Then in April 2005, he and challenges and how they could personally contribute. McComb into his group. took over as a company group chairman of J&J, respon- McComb said he printed every e-mail and carries a bound McComb’s creativity sets him apart, said Perkins. He sible for the DePuy business. book of them with him everywhere to read on the train or recalled the launch of Pepcid, for which McComb helped “Businesses do well from having eyes from other in- whenever he has down time. “There is a lot of power in conceive the commercial featuring a family speaking dustries — that’s the promotion philosophy of Johnson that book,” he said. “It leaves me really optimistic.” boisterously in Italian at the dinner table to convey the & Johnson,” McComb said. “There’s something to be That optimism comes when it clearly is most needed. brand’s position of enjoying food, fun and family without said for being kicked out of your comfort zone. But I Claiborne’s 40 consecutive quarters of growth ground to a heartburn. “Imagine advertising an OTC drug in Italian have learned that all businesses are alike and face the halt last year. For the fi rst nine months of 2006, net income with English subtitles — clearly creative,” Perkins said. same kind of challenges. You’d be surprised at how dropped by 24.1 percent to $181.5 million, or $1.75 a di- Perkins also pointed to McComb’s solution to the re- much business is like business.” luted share, from $239.1 million, or $2.20, a year ago. Sales quirement of including drug warnings in Tylenol com- That’s been McComb’s mantra since taking the top rose by 0.5 percent to $3.67 billion from $3.65 billion. mercials: feature the company’s vice president of sales job at Claiborne in November — and more likely for Turning those numbers around to win back Wall telling viewers that if they did not read the warning la- his entire career. He said the Claiborne board fi rst con- Street may be McComb’s biggest challenge, but keep- bels and use the proper dosage of the drug, he would tacted him in spring 2006, courted him over the summer ing key employees on board is also important, said Brad rather them not use Tylenol at all. while he was frequently overseas for business, solidifi ed Stephens, an analyst for Morgan Keegan & Co. Inc. “Is “He’s probably not what you would expect coming the relationship in the fall and then fi nally announced there going to be turnover there?” Stephens said. “If out of health care,” Perkins said. “I don’t think there is his appointment Oct. 16. He took over on Nov. 6. problems happen and they start to lose people at the an industry Bill couldn’t tackle. It’s pretty easy to see “Both the board and I were extremely careful and top, investors will be very concerned.” him skipping into an industry like apparel, where his took an extremely long time in choosing,” McComb said. Before McComb joined the fi rm, which he calls “the creativity and design could excel.” 10 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 WWD.COM Textile & Trade Report N.Y. Textile Fairs Supima Opens Premium Show upima, the promotional Gaining Steam Sorganization representing the American pima cotton By Ross Tucker industry, will premiere its fi rst textile show here next week, NEW YORK — Organizers of several international textile fairs touting a premium message in scheduled to kick off here next week have momentum on their a prime setting. side. Supima has gathered 20 The allure of the U.S. market and the chance to land even one mills from around the world for recognizable brand, retailer or designer as a customer has pushed “Prefab: the Supima Premium the shows to the limits of their capacity months ahead of time. Fabric Show,” at Gotham Hall However, this growth has allowed two new shows to be added to the for three days starting Jan. 23. roster within the last year, bringing the issue of competition to the Exhibiting mills include Cone forefront. Denim from the U.S., Fountain European textile manufacturers, in particular, have been feeling Set and Bondex International the pinch of competition from Asia for several years. Daniel Faure, Here and below: Scenes from Innovation Asia. Textiles from Hong Kong, and Turkey’s Arsan Tekstil. Buxton Midyette, marketing president of Première Vision, which produces Première Vision director for Supima, said the Preview, said the show was one of the fi rst to give U.S. customers an show is intended to highlight early read on trends. The fi rst show, then called European Preview, pima cotton and spur growth in was launched seven years ago. the premium apparel segment. “From the beginning, it was quite successful,” Faure said. “Even “You read about the retail if most of the collections were not set up at that time of the year, the sector, and the real growth is with customers and designers in New York understood perfectly what Nordstrom or Brooks Brothers was the style and that they could get the fi rst real and complete — it’s the premium end,” information on the season.” Midyette said. “I think the key to Although the focus on trends continues, European mills also their success has been a focus have been forced to present themselves as capable of delivering on product. [For] the consumer, high-quality goods at competitive prices. The show’s format has there’s a return to quality.” not changed drastically, but as it heads into its 14th edition next Pima is the generic name week, Faure acknowledged that the pressures on exhibitors keep for extra-long staple cotton mounting. grown primarily in the U.S., Australia and Peru. Perhaps the world’s most famous extra- long staple cotton is Egyptian What everybody would like to have is cotton. However, Supima’s Web “ site notes that while all cotton creativity and quality, but with a Chinese grown in Egypt is designated as Egyptian cotton, the majority price. But that’s terribly diffi cult. exported from the Middle Eastern ” country is long staple cotton, not — Daniel Faure, Première Vision extra-long staple cotton. About 2,000 farmers in the “The problem is the same, to be able to deliver shortly and with a West and Southwest states grow perfect quality anywhere in the world with a reasonable price,” he pima, producing some 750,000 said. “What everybody would like to have is creativity and quality, bales in 2006, or 20 percent but with a Chinese price. But that’s terribly diffi cult.” of the world’s extra-long staple Concerns over the viability and sustainability of the European crop, Midyette said. textile industry were heightened heading into 2005, when global “By its nature, it’s a quotas on textiles and apparels were eliminated. Quality issues premium fi ber,” Midyette said. with Asian mills have brought back customers, but Faure contends “At the fi ber level, it’s 50 that some European mills are “still afraid.” That said, the relation- percent more expensive than ship and cooperation between buyers and suppliers has continued regular cotton but much softer to progress, helped in large part by advances in technology. and much stronger. At the Première Vision will convene Jan. 24 to 25 at the Metropolitan garment level, you’re looking at Pavilion on 18th Street here. an increase of 25 [percent] to Lenzing Fibers started its Innovation Asia show in 2001 with 13 30 percent.” mills exhibiting in the upper fl oor of a midtown restaurant. Discussions between “Maybe we had 250 or 300 people come,” said Tricia Carey, mer- manufacturers and buyers chandising manager for Lenzing. “We had to rush out and print always center around price and more directory books because we didn’t know how many people product, Midyette said. to expect.” “The difference is, what are In July, Lenzing partnered with Messe Frankfurt for the debut you talking about fi rst?” he said. of Texworld USA. The two shows share space at the Penn Plaza Gotham Hall, a former Pavilion. Carey said Innovation Asia drew more than 20 mills and bank on Broadway in the about 850 visitors during the last show. She has witnessed the in- Garment Center built in the creased interest from Asian mills since the fi rst edition. Twenties with a Romanesque “When I started with Lenzing, we had a dozen Asian suppliers, architectural style, will lend and now we have so many,” Carey said. “They’re more aggressive itself to the premium message. in knowing the players in New York, as well. They understand that “The MO behind it is the decision is made here and then followed through in Asia, so this to keep it a boutique show gives them exposure.” and create more of a relaxed Carey believes the challenges Asian mills face are much the atmosphere,” said Michelle same as those from other areas of the world. Elzay, a designer for Sparrow “The fabric buyers are savvy as to how they can source and Designs, which is working get the best value for their customer,” she said. “The price of with Supima to organize and clothing goes up, but the price people are willing to pay for fab- produce the show. “It’s an ric goes down.” upgrade of the general trade Carey acknowledged that communication and follow-up on leads show experience.” is a problem for some of the Asian mills. Also, because many don’t Midyette hopes the have agents based in the U.S. they don’t have a thorough under- environment will encourage standing of the market. visitors, of which several “In some cases, the mills need to know more brands,” Carey said. hundred have already “They know the big ones, but they need to realize there are a lot registered, to spend more time more between them.” meeting with manufacturers. The Texworld USA show was nearly sold out by early December, The geographical diversity of with almost 160 exhibitors and more than 1,900 visitors expected to the vendors is also designed attend. The show’s second edition will take place at the Penn Plaza to acknowledge the varied Pavilion Jan. 23 to 25. sourcing strategies of potential The Turkish Fashion Fabric Exhibition will host its 11th edition buyers. Jan. 23 to 24 at the Grand Hyatt New York and is expected to have — R.T. more than 30 exhibitors showing. The NewAgeFiber TENCEL www.lenzing.com ® regulation ofthebody’s temperature whenyoupracticesports. of thiscellulosicfiberoffer perfectmoisture transport. TENCEL management ofTENCEL more moisture thancotton.Whencompared tosyntheticfibersthemoisture TENCEL Natural performanceforactivewear Moreover TENCEL Cellulose FiberTechnology World Leaderin ® signals thedawningofanewage.Thecontrolled inherent nanofibrils ® helps youtoimprove yourperformancethankstotheperfect ® is uniqueandallowsforpeakperformancesinsports. INSIDE MANAGEMENT MOISTURE ® absorbs 130%

Lenzing AG, A-4860 Lenzing, Austria 12 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007

Textiles & Trade HomeHome, Swe

KBC’s rayon and spandex at Première Vision Preview. Seterie Argenti’s cotton and polyester at Première Vision Preview. Confetti Fabrics’ rayon at Première Vision Preview. Siat & Lang’s cotton and silk at Première Vision Preview. Deveaux SA’s cotton, polyester and Lycra spandex at Première Vision Preview. Söktas Tekstil’s cotton at Turkish Fashion Fabric Exhibition. Sucuka Jersey’s polyester at Turkish Fashion Fabric Exhibition. FUTURE PHOTO BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; DISPLAY BY WILLIAM GOTTLIEB/CORBIS; STYLED BY COURT WILLIAMS WILLIAM GOTTLIEB/CORBIS; COURT STYLED BY BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; DISPLAY FUTURE PHOTO BY

Register Now!

Experience the entire fabric spectrum balancing superior quality with exceptional pricing

January 23 - 25, 2007 SHOW HOURS Penn Plaza Pavilion & Hotel Pennsylvania Tuesday, January 23 1:00 p.m. - 7:00 p.m. 33rd St. at 7th Avenue Wednesday, January 24 9:30 a.m. - 6:00 p.m. New York, NY Thursday, January 25 9:30 a.m. - 4:00 p.m. WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 13 WWD.COM et

What’s cooking in textiles for spring 2008? A big retro feel, with lots of kitschy color pairings such as brown with yellow or baby blue with white. At the Première Vision Preview, scheduled for Jan. 24 to 25 at New York’s Metropolitan Pavilion, exhibitors are hot for whimsical stripes, dots and fl orals with a Fifties bent. Meanwhile, at the Turkish Fashion Fabric Exhibition, to run Jan. 23 to 24 at the Grand Hyatt Hotel at Grand Central Terminal, expect more stripes, as well as a bevy of plaids, some with a Western fl air.

Back to the Future: Textiles designers are channeling patterns and color combinations that experienced a heyday in the Fifties. 14 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007

Textiles & Trade

▲ Konak Tül’s Sucuka Jersey’s polyester nylon at Turkish at Turkish Fashion Fabric Fashion Fabric Exhibition. Exhibition.

Söktas Tekstil’s cotton at Turkish Fashion Fabric Exhibition.

Worsted wool from Becker & Führen-Tuche at Première All Dressed Up Vision Preview. The chic side of spring 2008 is showing up in two veins: dark and sober or light and airy. Either way, the delicate motifs at the Première Vision Preview and the Turkish Fashion Fabric Exhibition are downright sophisticated. Many of the fabrics are being shown with classic stripes, while powder-puff pastels — mostly pinks and lavenders — are balanced by a deeper palette of charcoal gray, chocolate brown and navy Confetti Fabrics’ blue shades. Modern fl oral patterns add rayon at Première Nylon and rayon from Jabouley SA a polished touch, while lace fl ourishes Vision Preview. WWDQuarterPageVerticalNoBannerRedhead.ai 12/22/2006 7:59:25 AM at Première Vision Preview. provide a major dose of elegance. WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 15 WWD.COM

Sucuka Jersey’s micro polyester at Turkish Fashion Fabric Exhibition.

Acetate and polyester from Bossa’s cotton Goutarel SA at Turkish at Première Fashion Fabric Vision Preview. Exhibition. PHOTOS BY THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY COURT WILLIAMS COURT THOMAS IANNACCONE; STYLED BY PHOTOS BY

Nylon from Ets Lucien Noyon et Cie at Première Vision Preview.

Siat & Lang’s cotton, rayon and nylon at Première Vision Preview. Konak Tül’s polyester at Turkish Fashion Fabric Exhibition.

THE SUPIMA PREMIU M FABRICSH OW JANUARY 23– 2 5 , 2007 GOTHAM HALL,LL, NEW YORK CITY PREMIUMFABRICSHOW.COMFABRICSH

Pleasese attendatte the premiere showcase—se TREND SEMINARSEM PREFAB:FAB: THETH SUPIMA PREMIUM FABRICBR SHOW Reservationso Requireded *** GOTHAMOTHAM HALLHAL FASHION, SSTYLE AND VISIONN 1356 Broadway (at 36th Street), New YorkYork,k, NY Incoming Trends,ren Looks, Colors and Textiles on tthe Horizon January 23, 10:3:30am – 5:30pm DAVID WWOLFEE, Creative DirectorDirec r of the Doneger Group January 24 + 25,2 9am – 5:30p30pm Tuesday,, JaJanuaryu 23 att 1pm * * * Continentalal breakfastbrea and hors d’od’oeuvres TOBÉ NEXTNEX RSVSVP to wwwww.premiumfabricshow.comem cshow.c Spring/Summerng/S er 200808 Trends: Key ItemsIte aandn ColorsColo CAROLYNOLY EGANN, Fashionas Editor, Thehe TTobéé Report Selectelect compancompanies wwill present outstandings g menswearm r Wednesday,ne Januaryan a 24 at 1pm and womewomenswearr fabricsf for Spring/Summerg/ mer 2008. **** All collectionsolle will include a variety ofo fabricsric made COLOROR AND TRENDREN from SUPIMAS , theth world’s finest cotton.to Menswearw Spring/Summernng 2008 For moreo informationrm call: (212) 974-04414- 41 or visit: PAUL PPELLSERSRSS, Paul Pellsers Ltd.Ltd www.premiumfabricshow.compr m Thursday,da JanuaryJanua 25 at 1pm 16 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 WWD.COM Ready-to-Wear Report

Fur-trimmed shearlings Turkish Leather Takes Manhattan were key at the show. group of 35 Turkish leather goods makers made their Plans are under way to establish another show in July or Acountry’s first concerted effort to try to woo U.S. retail- August that would highlight Turkey’s raw leather producers. ers during the inaugural edition of the Turkish Leather Goods Turkish leather makers have committed to returning next show in Manhattan. January for another edition of the leather goods show. Although Turkey exported $1.2 billion worth of leather The U.S. military presence in Iraq, one of the eight coun- products last year, a gain compared with 2005’s $1 billion in tries that Turkey borders, has not deterred Turkish compa- sales, the U.S. accounts for an inconsequential percentage nies from pursuing the American market. “War is not elegant, of that total, said Lemi Tolunay, chairman of the Istanbul but on the other side, we must do our business,’’ Tolunay said. Leather and Leather Products Exporters’ Association. After “Life must go on.” successfully entering new markets such as Poland, Finland, Mando Suri, owner of the Levinson label, said the U.S. mar- Romania, Latvia and Estonia, Turkish leather companies are ket accounts for 3 to 5 percent of his $32 million women’s busi- determined to expand their presence in the U.S. The Turkish ness, but he aims to make it a minimum of 15 percent within Leather Council decided to organize the three-day event that the next three years. The brand’s women’s collection whole- ended Thursday at the Grand Hyatt here to help the 35 compa- sales from $250 to $900 and generates about $20 million in nies make more of a splash. sales annually, he said. “Some of these companies have their own showrooms or Suri, who has made headway in Russia, France, England, reps in the U.S., but that was not enough,” Tolunay said. Italy, Spain, Japan and Greece, is now focused on the U.S. “We In addition, several fi rms manufacture branded goods for have several customers in New York and we have picked up internationally well-known businesses, which he declined to three or four others. America has big potential,” he said. name. Mefi n Ocak, owner of M.M. Deri, was so keen about the Leather goods have been made in Turkey for 400 years and men’s collection that he modeled some styles for a few visi- its leather manufacturing technology is one of the world’s best. tors. The women’s label, La Piel, is sold in Italian Connection’s It has built a following among Italian companies, Tolunay said. two stores here. To try to get more of a foothold here, the heav- The country’s 250 to 300 leather apparel manufacturers have ily embellished collection is competitively priced at $200 for the infrastructure and know-how to increase production, he leather coats and $500 for shearlings. added. — Rosemary Feitelberg

Buyers Try Some Ingenuity at Nouveau Dress Sales Still Swift at D&A NEW YORK — Buyers attending last week’s Some stores picked up NEW YORK — The dress craze looks set to make it through summer, at Nouveau Collective at the New Yorker Ulf Andersson dresses. least for vendors at the Designers & Agents show. And they would know. Hotel were on the move to fi nd practical but While this summer show, which ended its three-day run at the versatile items to help lift sales after a lack- Starrett-Lehigh Building here on Jan. 9, is signifi cantly smaller than luster holiday selling season. its fall sibling next month, it still offered more than plenty of cool, con- About 1,700 buyers checked out 134 temporary lines. The easy-breezy, printed summer dress continued to booths housing a total of 400 labels at the be a main feature in many of the booths, though there were also many four-day show, which closed Jan. 9. Those vendors moving away from busier brights to cleaner jersey items. figures are consistent with last year’s The mild winter and the mysterious odor that permeated much of January show, according to organizers. Manhattan last week seemed to have had no impact on the mood at Having introduced clothing last year to the the event. Cummings & Good Design Gallery, the store “We have had a positive show,” said Ed Mandelbaum, who coproduc- she owns with her husband, Peter Good, Jan es D&A with Barbara Kramer. “I came in thinking the mood wouldn’t be Cummings said she was looking for “wonder- so good because of the warm weather, but we felt that everybody was in ful things her customers can’t fi nd anywhere a positive mood and upbeat. People were buying.” else in the lower valley of Connecticut.” On Mandelbaum said there were 56 booths with about 80 collections, and a whim, before leaving her Chester, Conn., the show attracted 1,400 visitors, a 20 percent increase over last January’s store for the show, she e-mailed Bettina edition. Retailers also came to buy immediates to round out spring. Riedel and was delighted the designer e- “We always look for last-minute items,” said Ann Watson, vice president mailed back to say her collection would be and fashion director at Henri Bendel. “We were happy to fi nd saturated at Nouveau Collective. Cummings planned to bright dresses, the little white dress, which is also on everyone’s mind, and order “low-key basics” from Riedel that can newness in the T-shirt category, particularly from Elijah. In jewelry, we are be worn with the “splashy hats and scarves” still looking for great pendants and found those from Rebecca Norman.” she sells. Travel-friendly outerwear at Mycra Heidi Hoelzer, the casual collections buyer at Scoop, noted trends such Pac and comfortable yoga clothes at Pure & as eyelet, pastel colors, long dresses, tunics and cover-ups. Co. also appealed to Cummings. “Everything is soft and feminine,” she said. “[Summer is a] transi- While “practical, wearable items” were at tional period for us. This is usually a time to repeat and back up best- the top of her list, Cummings said she could sellers. It is all about the dress and leggings to go with it.” “play around” with her offerings a bit, since Many vendors, meanwhile, noted an uptick from this time last year. she and her husband have owned the 1809 At Charlotte Ronson, bestsellers included a white baby-doll dress with Greek Revival building that houses their traditional and misses’ suits, sportswear and Swiss dots, for $85 wholesale, and a space-dye cotton fl utter sleeve top, for store for 20 years. They are also helping fur coats. Trying on a fl oor-length fur at Dero, $55. “Even during summer, customers that would normally buy tops are to play up the town’s retail and restaurant she said her shoppers are much more inclined buying more dresses, which they can wear over jeans,” Ronson said. scene. Trained as graphic designers, they to try on a fur and buy it instead of going to a Designer Jenny Han also was big on dresses, including a cotton voile handle all of its promotional material. To try furrier for one. Furs that wholesale from $3,000 house dress with sati-covered but- to drum up more business, they helped cre- to $5,000 tend to do well in her store. tons, for $68 wholesale, and a trapeze ate “Cool Deals on Hot Nights,” a program Spoerl was also looking for buy-now, A Swiss dot pleated silk georgette dress for $78. on select Thursday summer nights that offers wear-now suits and ordered some from dress from “We are fi nding, however, that people special deals to shoppers and diners. “We’re Olivier Goureau, who was showing a vari- Charlotte are pushing their spring and summer trying different things to make Chester a ety of European lines. Spoerl tries to select Ronson. deliveries to a later date in the year more interesting place to visit,” she said. suits that wholesale between $300 and $350. because they anticipate the winter to At the Mycra Pac booth, Mindy Brush, co- Business in her store was “phenomenal” be extended into spring,” said Jessica founder of Pavo Real, was also talking up new all year, but December was “way off,” she Chavez, senior account executive at tactics. Last year she and her husband, Tom, said. “People weren’t cautious. They bought the Stacey Rhoads showroom, which closed all of their freestanding stores, except for electronics and they bought online.” represents the line. the one on Newbury Street in Boston, to take Exhibitor Ulf Andersson said, “A lot of At the Talla line, many dresses the business online. They hired Sarah Hodges, people have said they had a rough holiday were based on silk-screened or who was with her at the show, as a partner to season. I only sell to boutiques, and they block-printed Japanese motifs, in- focus on the Web. They are still investing in the are the most vulnerable. If they bought too cluding Ginko leaves and butterfl ies. company but are confi dent the Internet is the many heavy coats for winter, then compa- Bestsellers included a blue Swiss dot way to go for the future, Brush said. nies like mine pay the price.” blouse, priced at $49 wholesale, and Having been in business since 1978 when But the L.A.-based designer still man- a butterfl y-and-heart sheer georgette her husband, then a Boston University busi- aged to pick up six or seven new accounts blouse for $60. Talla also launched ness school student, started selling sports- for his colorful print dresses at the show. a secondary line called T2 at D&A, wear from a cart at Faneuil Hall, the compa- Another exhibitor, Lynne Andresevic which offers dresses and tops in a ny has “a devoted clientele” for travelwear, of Crayola Sisters, which sells Cordelia T-shirt jersey fabric at wholesale Brush said. In addition to packable Mycra sportswear, said a few stores told her they prices from $14 to $26. “Stores right Pac outerwear, they planned to order eclec- bought dresses too deeply and “they are not now are looking for all types of price tic knitwear and accessories, Hodges said. selling as well as they thought they would. points,” said Kenny Phelps, owner of Another retailer, Nellie Spoerl, owner of Shoppers might buy one or two dresses, but the multiline Trevormaxx Showroom, two Elizabeth Maar stores in Haverford and it is not a volume-oriented business.” which represents Talla and T2. Newtown Square, Pa., said she was looking for — R.F. — Marc Karimzadeh WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 17 WWD.COM Jeffry Aronsson Starts Rucci Looks to Future Luxury Investment Firm As FIT Fetes His Career By Arthur Friedman NEW YORK — Seeing highlights from a quarter- century’s worth of work might leave some feeling Ralph NEW YORK — Jeffry Aronsson, most recently chief executive officer of leaden, but Ralph Rucci was positively buoyant at Rucci Donna Karan International, has formed a company focused on acquisi- Thursday’s opening of the retrospective “Ralph with tions and proprietary brand development in the luxury market. Rucci: The Art of Weightlessness,” at the Museum James Aronsson, a former corporate attorney who also served as ceo of at the Fashion Institute of Technology here. Galanos. Marc Jacobs and Oscar de la Renta, said the fi rm, Aronsson Group LLC, “I can leave here tonight knowing this is part of at 450 Park Avenue here, will “target opportunities no matter what size, the past and I will be able to move on to the future,” provided we see the potential for scale and sustainable profi tability.” he said of the recap of 25 years of his career. A gallery display. “Our targets can be everything from restructurings and turn- Guests who passed by the 100 garments in the arounds of existing operating branded businesses to partnering with downstairs gallery might argue the designer has up-and-coming innovative designers and talent to build important long had his eyes fi xed on what lies ahead. One brands with signifi cant sales and profi ts,” he said. “We are currently of the highlights was a hooded amethyst-colored looking at a broad spectrum of deal sizes, which currently range from satin evening gown, futuristic-looking circular capital needs of less than $50 million to more than $1 billion.” gloves and four silk organza gowns depicting the Aronsson, whose partner is Shauna Mei, a former Goldman Sachs four seasons. James Galanos, Martha Stewart, investment banker, said the investment capital behind the company Amy Fine Collins, Linda Fargo, Robert Burke and is from fi nancial and strategic partners. Joan Kaner were among the well-wishers. Some “Our strategic partner for a particular deal must be best in class of the female attendees, like Valerie Steele, the for a key service or supplier role required for a given target,” he said. museum’s director, turned up in one of Rucci’s “We take the strategic co-investor approach to maximize alignment.” fl oor-length creations, Steele in a malachite- During his more than 15 years on Seventh Avenue, Aronsson traveled green gown. extensively throughout Europe and Asia, striking retail and distribution While the exhibition was being set up, even deals, particularly for the Oscar de la Renta and Donna Karan brands. the museum’s art handlers couldn’t stop com- Using his legal background, he also crafted these agreements to secure menting about the beauty of the clothes, Steele brand protection, something he plans to do with his new fi rm, as well. said. A few of the intricately designed gowns are Mei’s private equity and leveraged fi nance investment banking ex- suspended from the ceiling and look as though perience at Goldman Sachs included working with Neiman Marcus, they are fl oating. Dunkin’ Donuts, Aramark, Bolthouse and BMG Music Publishing.. While Rucci is known to be a fan of Cristobal Mei, a Beijing native who is fl uent in Mandarin, conceived a fashion Balenciaga, Alix Gres and Halston, he had his retail concept for Asia while developing market analysis for China. own legendary designer/admirer present, thanks The partners have developed a model for how the fi rm will operate. to Galanos. “Once we target a company, we have a process for analyzing the “Ralph’s one-of-a-kind. He’s gone beyond prospective acquisition,” Aronsson said. “Our next step is to as- being a designer. I feel as though he is an artist. semble a key management/talent team, possibly including a ceo. We His quality and detail are really quite unbeliev- study the company together with the management team and prepare able,” Galanos said. “In today’s kind of ready-to- a strategic plan for the company. Once we close on a transaction, wear — Ralph does ready-to-wear and couture our plan is to deep dive into the company’s operations to support — I don’t think anyone designs the intricacies he our executive team to get on track with the strategic plan we pre- does. It’s mind-boggling.” pared. Once on track, I take a non-executive chairman role.” — Rosemary Feitelberg STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY Aronsson said he hoped to make the fi rm’s fi rst acquisition soon.

HOP TO IT: Comme des Garçons is taking the Mickey out of Disneyland. Disney Japan approached the Japanese Fashion Scoops brand to feature Oswald — a rabbit designed by Walt Disney in 1927 before he came up with Mickey Mouse Apparel Sales Up in December GUEST LIST: Giorgio Armani has received another RSVP for — on T-shirts, shirts and wallets. For his big debut, his couture week festivities in Paris, and it’s a big one: Cate Oswald will get center stage in two new display units By Evan Clark Blanchett. The actress is expected to join the likes of Tina designed by Rei Kawakubo for the brand’s Dover Street Turner, Katie Holmes, Rosamund Pike and Tinsley Mortimer Market store in London and its Paris boutique. The WASHINGTON — Holiday markdowns at fashion retailers helped as Armani presents his fi fth couture collection, launches kiosk-like constructions will be used to sell select drive sales growth last month, although the impact on the bottom prestige skin care for men and women and inaugurates a products, wallets and fragrances. line is unclear. new-look boutique on Avenue Montaigne in which clothes Sales at apparel and accessories stores rose a seasonally adjust- and accessories will be presented in wardrobes and trunks. V FOR VICTORY: Dior’s fi ne jewelry designer, Victoire de la ed 0.6 percent compared with November and were up 5.5 percent Castellane, has set Feb. 13 as the date for a Paris ceremony from December 2005 to $18.1 billion, according to the Commerce GUCCI’S GREEN: It looks like Gucci Group’s balance sheet where she will be decorated as a Chevalier of the Legion Department’s monthly report on retail spending. is set to get a cash injection. A well-placed source said of Honor. “I’m thrilled to be able to accept the recognition Department store sales inched up a seasonally adjusted 0.2 per- that real estate company Gruppo Statuto recently bought on behalf of all those artisans across the ateliers of Paris cent compared with November and were down 0.5 percent from a the building housing Gucci’s offi ces on Milan’s Via who’ve helped me achieve it,” said de la Castellane, who year earlier to $17.7 billion. Montenapoleone for 180 million euros ($232 million) has made her mark at Dior with collections such as the Retailers reported soft same-store sales for the month versus and intends to rent part of the space back to Gucci for Incroyables et Merveilleuses and the Fiancée du Vampire. last year, even with a late rush to the stores. commercial spaces. Statuto, is still mulling what to do “They slashed prices a lot so their comps weren’t great, but with the remainder of the building, the source said, but HAVING A BALL: While Karl Lagerfeld has a knack for fi rst people were out in droves, spending up a storm,” said Richard it might use some of the palazzo’s 48,400 square feet identifying major modeling talent, he is also known to Yamarone, chief economist at Argus Research Corp. “The consum- to expand another of its properties, the Four Seasons sometimes do castings from his immediate circle. To er spending trend is strong, but whether retailers can translate this hotel. Both Statuto and Gucci declined to comment on wit: Sebastien Jondeau, his strapping bodyguard/private into higher profi t margins is a different story.” the state of the building. Regardless, the deal doesn’t secretary who is never far from his elbow, has turned up Overall retail and food service sales increased a seasonally adjusted affect the Gucci fl agship down the road. in Chanel’s summer look books, which have been shot by 0.9 percent in December — the most since July — with help from stron- Lagerfeld. Although the ruggedly handsome Jondeau’s ger growth at electronics and appliance stores and at gas stations. ASPREY’S MADISON MOVE: Asprey has signed a lease to preferred sport is boxing, he looks convincing athletic The National Retail Federation said holiday sales, excluding open a New York fl agship at 853 Madison Avenue, the dressed in Chanel’s rugby-themed sport collection, which turnover in automobiles and at gas stations and restaurants, rose company said in statement Friday. includes a hooded sweatshirt, taffeta fi tness pants and 4.4 percent, underperforming the trade group’s projection for 5 As reported, the British luxury jewelry, ready-to-wear a CC-logo rugby ball. Meanwhile, word has it Lagerfeld percent growth. and accessories brand will open a 7,500-square-foot unit has wrangled a new member of his entourage — the “[The] NRF expects these subdued gains to continue into the fi rst on the shopping thoroughfare in April, housed in a space hot indie singer Cat Power — to perform at the Chanel half of 2007,” NRF chief economist Rosalind Wells said in a statement. formerly occupied by part of the Yves Saint Laurent store. couture show on Jan. 23. Though the slowing housing market is a concern for many inves- “A strong presence in New York has always been a tors, the economic ripples of the drop-off might be overstated in key element in our development strategy,” said Gianluca FAMILY TIES: Yohji Yamamoto’s daughter, Limi, is following the case of consumer spending, said Kimberly Greenberger, equity Brozzetti, Asprey Group’s chief executive offi cer, in a in her father’s footsteps. She is said to be jetting in from analyst at Citigroup. statement. “We have chosen very prestigious locations Tokyo to Paris to attend her father’s ready-to-wear show “Consumer spending is most closely correlated with disposable that will allow Asprey to present its products in a more in February, and she is also gearing up to put on a show personal income growth, pointing to a healthy consumer heading exclusive and intimate way.” of her own in the City of Light come the fall. into 2007 based on solid wage growth and low unemployment lev- Asprey exited its loss-making 20,000-square-foot els,” Greenberger wrote in a research note Friday. fl agship in Trump Tower in March, after the company HOT LOTS: Photo booth or Paolo Roversi? Chances are, Consumers might get a break on fuel costs as lower crude oil pric- was sold to Sciens Capital Management LLC and fashion folks would prefer the latter and will be bidding up es translate into lower gasoline prices, said Rajeev Dhawan, director Plainfi eld Asset Management LLC. Since then, Asprey a storm when a chance to sit for a portrait with Roversi goes of the economic forecasting center at Georgia State University. had been trading from a temporary location at 50 East up for auction Jan. 25 in Paris during the Sidacation AIDS “But you’re not going get a break if the general economy slows,” 57th Street. The new store’s concept will be based on benefi t gala at the tail end of couture week. Pierre Bergé said Dhawan. “What matters overall is, there is nothing available the brand’s Norman Foster-designed New Bond Street and Yves Saint Laurent have also dipped into their extensive to make up for the shortfall in the housing and manufacturing sec- London fl agship, the company said, and will carry private art collection and are offering up a serpent-shaped tor. It’s not like the bottom is going to fall out for the two [sectors], Asprey’s entire collection, including fi ne jewelry, men’s vase by Niki de Saint Phalle to aid the charity. The signed but the oomph will be gone from retail sales as the two sectors do and women’s apparel, accessories and silver gift items. piece from 1991 is one of a numbered series of 50. less than normal.” 18 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 WWD.COM Marionnaud Mixes Formula for Future

By Jennifer Weil PARIS — France’s leading perfumery chain, Marionnaud Parfumeries, is getting a makeover. Its nips and tucks might force some others in Europe to take a good, hard look at their own retail concepts. Marionnaud, which gradually built strength across France — and Europe — as the mom-and-pop store for beauty, is entering the modern age with a more consistent, professional approach that focuses on hands-on service. In a press conference held in Rungis, on the outskirts of Paris Thursday, Marionnaud (which is owned by A.S. Watson — the retail division of Hong Kong-based Hutchison Whampoa Ltd.) unveiled to the press two full-size models of the company’s new perfumery concept, due to go into beta test publicly during the fi rst half of 2007. Located in a huge hangar in an area full of warehouses, the 4,220-square-foot and 1,335-square-foot perfumeries are two iterations of the new Marionnaud retail con- cept — that soon will include a signature beauty institute — to be tested and tweaked on a regular basis. So far, the company has invested about $3.9 million in market research for the “laboratory.” “Why a lab?” Laurence Paganini, managing director of Marionnaud France, asked rhetorically. He explained that the company believes in the importance of testing retail ideas on volunteers. Marionnaud has hosted numerous groups of 30 people each that have included beauty manufacturers, plus “Marionnaud shoppers, ex-Marionnaud shoppers and Sephora shoppers,” accord- ing to one executive, referring to Marionnaud’s prime competitor in France. Sephora follows in market share but has been pioneer- ing retail concepts, including recently focusing on beauty services and niche brands. The space is also used as a research center to evaluate future consumer needs, ways to update the stores and as a site to train Marionnaud beauty advisers. Clockwise from top left: A makeup table, Paganini said Marionnaud has learned consumers believe a mini institute and a storefront view. the perfumery’s strengths are its accessibility, both in terms of geography — there are 1,250 of its stores stretching across most of Europe, of which about half are in France — and the personal containing products that can be easily selected by consum- attention it proffers, plus its professionalism. ers in a hurry. Kauffmann said he made certain not to cram “A new focus will be on pleasure,” said Paganini. shelves with items, so as to “create spaces for the eye, spirit, a To help add this facet, Marionnaud signed Philippe Kauffmann, place to breathe.” of Atelier K., who redesigned the perfumery’s logo and retail space, Inside that area and following its perimeter is a section chocka- keeping its new motto, “Take care of yourself,” in mind. block with tables with lit surfaces. Kauffmann said the company decided to maintain Marionnaud’s black “The approach here is less immediate,” said Kauffmann, who said the script typeface, since it’s part of the chain’s heritage and signature. tables are meant to have themes, either based on brands or particular trends. “New Kauffmann did add a puff of reddish dots, which run under the “M” in Marionnaud designer fragrances” could easily be displayed here, for instance. and get denser as they go. The third, central space is for the most hands-on, adviser-heavy beauty. Kauffmann “It gives a bit more air and is more modern, without losing the history,” said envisions tables here that highlight interactive services, such as manicures, a selection of Kauffmann. creams to be tested or jewelry-like decals that can be pasted on skin, almost like tattoos. For the store, he said it was clear Marionnaud needed more than a superfi cial “There are advisers who are dedicated to this space,” said Kauffmann, of the area touch-up. that’s also peppered with “mini institutes,” partially closed-in areas carved out ei- “It was important to reposition the brand,” agreed Thibault ther by opaque, white curved dividers or purple glass, undulat- Ponroy, the company’s director of strategic marketing. ing screens, behind which beauty services can be given on an “It was key to give dimension to the concept,” continued even more confi dential basis. Kauffmann, explaining Marionnaud needed to be updated, al- BEAUTY BEAT The store’s color code — beiges, pinks and purples — was in- though consumers already love the brand, which is a stalwart in spired by various skin tones, said Kauffmann. France. It was developed for some two decades by Marcel Frydman, who purchased the Evidently, nothing about the store has been left to chance. Lighting, in the form of fi rst Marionnaud door as a gift to his wife. (In spring 2005, Watson took over the chain.) modern chandeliers that look like paper cutouts, is not consistent in terms of each Unlike its multinational rivals, including Sephora, which is known for its self- fi xture’s brightness, but rather adjusted according to an area’s needs. The music play- service retail concept, and Douglas, which is of a similar open plan, Marionnaud ing in the store has been chosen by executives to create a relaxed ambience, while kept true to its perfumery heritage, boasting strong in-house beauty adviser sup- numerous versions of a new beauty-adviser uniform (with colors in keeping with port. Yet the retail concept evolved very little over time, save for some Marionnaud Marionnaud’s decor) are being tried out in the lab. megastores. One was opened on Paris’ Champs-Elysées and another in Marseilles. Also being tested are electronic devices dotted around Marionnaud’s walls. These Most Marionnauds have traditional layouts with gondolas and products arranged by machines are to be swiped with products’ barcodes so that beauty information can brand and category. pop up on screens. When Marionnaud fi delity cards are swiped, consumers can fi nd The next-generation Marionnaud is another story, however. out how many points they have accrued in-store. For its exterior, Kauffmann designed huge glass windows, meant to let people feel The new Marionnaud perfumery will make its way outside the lab environment soon. drawn into the interior. According to Ponroy, two to three pilots of the concept will be tested in malls and in city Inside, the space is organized in terms of three different time periods consum- centers during the fi rst half of 2007. Of those, one will be tried out elsewhere in Europe. ers might spend in the store, explained Kauffmann. In one area, there are shelves The testing of a full-service Marionnaud beauty institute will begin in the lab with- in a few weeks. Although Marionnaud does not advertise its existing institute ser- vices, it has built acclaim in the fi eld. Already, the company boasts 750 aestheticians and 300 institutes. Treschow Named Chairman at Unilever “This brand is extremely strong,” said Kauffmann. A new Marionnaud spa institute concept could be unveiled to the public in the fi rst LONDON — Michael Treschow will take over as chairman of Unilever NV and half of 2008. Unilever plc in May, the Anglo-Dutch consumer goods giant announced Friday. Seemingly, nothing about the Marionnaud’s renovation is being rushed. Treschow, who will succeed Antony Burgmans, will be the company’s fi rst “Last year was one of reorganization, of reinforcing the team — in France, we independent non-executive chairman and the fi rst person drafted from outside closed 25 platforms without problems — and perfected the logistical system,” said Unilever to take on the chairman’s role. Hugues Witvoet, chief executive offi cer of Watson’s Luxury Perfumeries and Cosmetics Treschow, a 63-year-old native of Sweden, is currently chairman of mo- division, who added that Marionnaud opened 30 stores in Europe and registered 4 bile phone maker Ericsson, household appliances brand Electrolux and the percent sales growth on a like-for-like basis in 2006 overall. Confederation of Swedish Enterprise, as well as a non-executive director of en- This year is more about updating the retailer’s image. Ponroy said while gineering fi rm ABB Group. He will depart his Electrolux and Confederation of Marionnaud stores are being changed, the company is careful to respect and rein- Swedish Enterprise roles in April and May, respectively. Press speculation began force the brand’s traditional values. to surface about Treschow’s candidacy last December to replace Burgmans, who will But again, the revamping is not being rushed. “This is not a Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde retire from Unilever at its 2007 annual meeting in May. — Brid Costello process,” he said. — With contributions from Ellen Groves WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 19 Weekly Stocks WWD.COM 52-WEEK VOLUME AMT HIGH LOW RETAILERS P/E (000’S) LAST CHANGE Financial 79.42 49.98 Abercrombie & Fitch 17.4 70407 78.15 4.14 27.13 19.51 Acadia 42.9 12035 24.91 0.28 35.63 21.07 Aeropostale 21.0 54707 35.75 1.82 22.98 17.01 Alberto Culver 9.8 43901 22.71 -0.06 3.19 1.88 Alpha Pro Tech 23.1 2692 2.77 0.06 33.61 16.17 American Eagle Outfitters 21.4 188190 33.76 1.44 45.15 32.14 Ann Taylor 16.7 114355 35.01 1.64 10.45 6.17 Ashworth 100.0 2846 7.10 -0.07 34.86 26.16 Avon 32.4 83580 34.41 0.96 Microsoft Affi rms Commitment to Retail 23.03 8.63 Bakers 34.3 1696 10.25 1.07 26.86 14.07 Bebe 20.2 65462 18.40 1.31 40.00 23.39 Benetton 49.2 190 37.81 -0.18 viding inventory information so ed payments from First Data. 16.50 7.72 Big Dog 88.3 289 15.95 0.08 By Cate T. Corcoran 7.85 6.01 Birks & Mayors 8.6 86 7.12 0.07 consumers can search online and Ballmer noted Microsoft has 33.07 25.18 BJs 18.2 44006 31.09 1.37 46.44 23.73 Blair 16.6 4094 36.59 1.85 icrosoft chief executive offi - fi nd out which local stores carry improved security in all its soft- 6.80 1.48 Blue 12.1 1191 1.65 0.08 1.60 0.68 Bluefly - 17686 1.17 -0.06 Mcer Steve Ballmer outlined the stockkeeping unit they want. ware, and will roll out nine new 39.36 18.88 Bon-Ton - 10476 38.09 3.08 51.75 28.59 Brown Shoe 22.0 12635 51.28 3.08 the company’s vision for retail at Ballmer alluded to several an- versions of its software over 54.98 33.19 Buckle 19.0 5618 52.98 2.57 26.32 15.00 Caché 33.3 21690 25.03 2.92 the National Retail Federation nouncements the company made the next year, starting with the 35.24 21.08 Carter 19.2 23665 26.29 1.19 conference here Monday. today. It is working with Teradata Windows Vista operating system 15.10 6.80 Casual Male 27.3 50712 13.27 0.97 26.70 19.35 Cato 14.0 8190 22.68 0.26 There were no surprises in to improve interoperability with due in two weeks. 45.11 35.80 CBL 39.4 22242 44.52 2.22 12.74 8.96 CCA 13.4 618 11.57 -0.13 the speech, which outlined four Microsoft applications so, for ex- The company is working with 18.18 7.46 Charles & Colvard 24.4 3981 7.75 0.05 33.19 15.28 Charlotte Russe 19.6 19733 32.93 2.49 key trends: The importance of ample, a merchant can use Excel Best Buy, Circuit City, Ralph 15.57 9.69 Charming Shoppes 16.5 57691 14.24 1.01 56.14 27.99 Chattem 25.2 14152 57.24 2.35 the customer, increasing global or SQL server to view informa- Lauren, Charming Shoppes, Lane 45.12 33.65 Cherokee 21.3 1880 46.00 3.18 49.40 17.26 Chico’s 20.2 151318 22.36 1.78 competition, empowered and tion stored in a Teradata ware- Bryant and FNAC, among others, 71.81 41.81 Children’s Place 22.6 24860 58.65 0.33 31.25 17.57 Christopher & Banks 19.2 45336 20.83 2.18 knowledgeable employees and in- house. The functionality will be to get information to employees 44.30 34.57 Cintas 19.6 41533 40.68 0.39 57.85 26.78 Citi Trends 27.5 4030 41.00 3.00 tegrated enterprises in which in- available later this quarter. they need to help customers make 37.49 23.88 Claire’s Stores 19.7 61066 34.55 1.19 formation is available anywhere. The company also announced the right purchase decisions and 45.87 25.18 Coach 32.8 140288 45.82 1.82 31.26 18.69 Coldwater Creek 41.4 84200 24.22 0.26 “These are the big changes we updated versions of its two to make information broadly 67.08 53.41 Colgate Palmolive 26.6 85828 66.84 1.38 62.55 42.85 Columbia Sportswear 16.8 17727 57.91 1.75 see happening in the industry, point-of-sale software packages available across the company. 44.99 17.61 Conns 13.8 8775 23.94 1.30 57.94 46.00 Costco 23.0 169707 55.95 2.54 and they will only accelerate,” for small and midsize retail- “Technology will help 9.45 7.13 Cost U Less 11.4 542 8.36 0.24 50.25 20.32 Crocs 35.9 94699 47.97 4.29 said Ballmer, pacing the stage ers, the $799 Point of Sale 2.0 strengthen customer relations, 6.75 4.24 Culp - 652 6.20 0.68 13.48 9.02 Cutter & Buck 15.5 1060 11.56 0.76 and speaking in the booming and Microsoft Dynamics Retail improve enterprise openness 5.05 1.85 Cygne Designs - 310 2.30 -0.02 32.39 21.34 Deb Shops 16.8 1351 28.52 2.88 voice for which he is well known. Management System 2.0, which and enable real-time business 60.56 29.70 Deckers Outdoor 23.5 11340 59.00 1.84 12.00 6.61 Delia’s 56.0 10889 10.18 -0.16 He noted that localized search starts at $1,190. In addition, decisions,” Ballmer said. “The 20.50 15.35 Delta Apparel 10.3 642 15.50 -2.15 10.58 6.01 Delta Galil - 60 8.30 -0.80 will be important in the coming small retailers can buy a com- fundamental value technology 66.36 47.40 Developers Diversified 39.2 27599 64.45 2.32 years, and urged retailers to plete POS system with Hewlett- will continue to bring is really 36.47 23.94 Dillard’s 14.7 64784 34.70 1.39 18.32 12.10 Dollar General 23.0 170834 17.49 1.01 open up and participate in pro- Packard hardware and integrat- quite important.” 28.09 16.91 Dress Barn 17.0 51061 23.63 1.01 40.34 25.54 DSW 29.2 12764 39.41 1.77 42.06 22.34 Duckwall-Alco 22.7 404 35.24 -2.90 16.00 6.88 Eddie Bauer - 6985 9.18 0.05 24.58 13.63 Elizabeth Arden 17.8 8927 18.67 -0.11 43.60 33.96 Estée Lauder 27.0 42670 40.94 0.36 20.63 10.21 Everlast Worldwide 15.5 747 17.50 1.00 31.00 21.57 Family Dollar 22.8 77522 30.30 1.35 45.01 32.38 Federated Department Stores 21.4 335447 39.24 2.35 18.81 9.55 Finish Line 16.7 34067 13.26 -0.89 Gap Speculation Boosting Shares 26.16 24.58 Forest City 31.5 254 25.18 -0.50 23.84 15.89 Fossil 24.8 12058 23.42 0.75 15.90 11.30 Freds 18.6 21339 12.84 0.54 ment team. Mager said a fi nancial restructuring or 42.95 31.12 G&K 20.1 4109 38.38 -0.11 By Vicki M. Young 19.98 9.80 Gaiam 87.2 8409 13.17 0.06 even a sale of the company is not a panacea. 21.39 15.91 Gap 19.4 708391 20.30 1.41 56.26 41.92 General Growth 277.0 69834 54.85 3.34 NEW YORK — Shares of Gap Inc. are up about Regarding a leveraged buyout, a fi nancial buyer 43.72 25.50 Genesco 14.0 10355 39.60 2.85 22.50 7.91 G-III Apparel 28.9 4631 20.95 1.11 6 percent since the beginning of the year after wouldn’t get much by way of assets. The compa- 55.79 38.24 Gildan Activewear 28.6 11705 52.06 4.45 29.10 23.08 Glimcher 102.4 14748 26.60 0.26 speculation swirled in the market last week that ny’s Gap, Banana Republic, Old Navy and Forth & 11.89 6.29 Gottschalks 59.1 1993 10.51 -0.43 71.25 33.95 Guess 30.8 35039 71.41 5.58 the company might put itself up for sale. Towne brands consist mostly of store leases. 49.11 20.78 Gymboree 25.3 35621 44.70 1.45 152.00 77.30 Hallwood 6.3 43 114.00 -2.00 Neither Goldman Sachs, which supposedly In a subsequent report released last Wednesday, 24.80 11.76 Hampshire 11.2 193 16.50 0.40 24.92 17.75 Hanesbrands - 15633 25.22 0.99 was contacted to explore options, nor Gap have following executive changes at the merchandising 9.97 5.50 Hartmarx 17.4 6790 6.98 0.21 25.50 16.18 Helen of Troy 14.5 24465 22.93 -2.00 yet to confi rm the speculation. The equity re- and design teams at Gap and Old Navy, Mager said, 15.64 9.43 Hot Topic 33.1 44090 11.49 0.54 search arm of the investment banking fi rm, which “Bottom-line, these changes do not alter our view 7.30 0.95 House of Taylor Jewelry - 1781 2.64 -0.27 38.73 23.54 IAC Interactive 39.0 168938 37.84 0.31 operates separately from its fi nancial advisory/ on the Gap stock.” The announced departures in- 20.87 11.17 Iconix 24.3 50305 20.76 2.61 1.32 0.37 Innovo - 25038 1.10 0.42 investment banking services, reaffi rmed its “sell” cluded Denise Johnston, president of Gap Adult, 21.77 15.39 Inter Parfums 24.1 3849 19.25 0.60 43.56 24.00 J. Crew - 47915 37.82 0.88 rating on the stock last Tuesday. after just eight months on the job. 82.49 54.18 J.C. Penney 16.5 86763 78.87 2.29 11.83 7.15 Jaclyn 15.0 114 11.29 -0.19 Goldman Sachs analyst Margaret Mager said Mager said turnover at the midmanagement 36.10 27.30 Jones Apparel 21.2 25151 33.78 0.30 48.12 22.14 Jos. A. Bank 15.3 15983 32.49 1.39 in the research note that while “there are nu- ranks at Gap has been occurring for several 34.84 23.40 Kellwood 35.8 8086 32.17 0.14 28.72 21.75 Kenneth Cole 18.1 5512 23.96 -0.29 merous strategic options, at current prices the years, and that poor results typically lead to de- 69.48 56.59 Kimberly Clark 22.7 79002 69.01 0.57 47.27 33.24 Kimco Realty 31.4 59545 46.94 2.86 upside from here is limited. Beyond a buyout, partures. She said high turnover creates stress 75.54 42.78 Kohl’s 23.1 158543 68.25 1.45 Gap could attempt to rationalize one of its units at all levels and exacerbates the challenges. In 37.81 22.54 K-Swiss 13.4 13251 30.18 -0.07 13.98 9.70 LaCrosse Footwear 12.9 131 13.20 0.00 (e.g., Banana Republic) through a sale or public Gap’s case, she expects poor results will contin- 18.86 11.37 Lakeland Inds 14.2 654 14.09 0.20 32.60 22.11 Limited Brands 14.8 322715 28.62 1.29 offering, or it could break the company up into ue into 2007 given the “turmoil in leadership.” 21.50 8.66 Liquidity Services 54.5 7540 18.75 1.70 45.35 33.40 Liz Claiborne 18.0 38438 45.43 1.11 multiple traded parts, but we see little hidden “The management turnover reduces the prob- 4.89 2.69 LJ Intl. 20.6 26115 5.65 1.20 31.56 24.17 Luxottica 27.0 8970 29.92 -0.44 value in a breakup. We think a buyback or spe- ability of an LBO in our view as it points to an 92.07 67.11 Macerich 142.0 21468 90.55 4.79 22.84 8.49 Maidenform 17.9 12625 18.58 1.12 cial dividend designed to return excess cash to unstable company that should not be leveraged. 42.39 29.81 Men’s Wearhouse 17.5 51029 43.14 3.91 26.31 15.20 Marcus 26.4 4910 26.06 1.17 shareholders is the most likely event.” In our view, Gap cannot realistically explore 57.65 12.79 Mothers Work 25.3 4816 43.05 0.63 29.68 17.91 Movado 18.9 6477 28.27 -0.10 The analyst said the problems confronting Gap strategic options until its business is performing 2.97 0.58 Movie Star - 20054 2.70 0.69 24.10 18.81 National Retail Properties 22.9 16895 23.27 0.60 are “structural” and would challenge any manage- better,” Mager concluded. 28.93 22.80 New Plan Excel Realty 30.2 20318 27.64 0.55 22.59 9.41 New York & Co. 18.8 21540 14.60 -0.23 101.20 75.52 Nike 18.7 77351 99.76 0.93 9.19 1.74 Nitches 70.9 10989 7.40 -0.10 53.75 31.77 Nordstrom 22.2 123145 54.81 3.53 21.50 14.18 Oakley 31.6 9431 21.49 1.02 16.58 1.53 Oralabs 46.7 32555 5.14 -8.18 6.00 3.25 Orange 21 - 2794 5.04 0.08 Financo Adds West Coast Executive 11.55 6.70 Orchids Paper 281.7 19 8.45 0.05 53.98 34.34 Oxford 14.5 21147 44.36 -4.18 25.26 13.12 Pacific Sunwear 20.0 79608 21.23 1.14 NEW YORK — Investment bank- as a member of the fi rm’s oper- fi rm. Increasing our presence 19.24 4.43 Parlux Fragrances 21.6 21382 6.14 -0.19 23.45 17.00 Paxar 19.9 7474 22.49 0.08 ing firm Financo Inc. hired ating committee and report di- refl ects our desire to continue 33.78 20.36 Payless Shoes 23.0 36329 33.82 1.66 28.49 12.33 Perry Ellis 20.0 5695 27.14 1.19 Steven H. Reiner as a managing rectly to Gilbert Harrison, chair- to grow Financo and broaden 54.25 32.21 Phillips-Van Heusen 20.2 32378 54.82 2.47 6.09 3.00 Phoenix Footwear 13.7 361 5.02 0.27 director whose responsibility man and chief executive offi cer, our capabilities.” 15.01 9.30 Playtex 77.2 11486 14.00 -0.08 83.75 45.65 Polo Ralph Lauren 23.5 24352 82.71 2.81 will be to head the bank’s new and William Susman, president Financo, with headquar- 20.64 7.55 PriceSmart 42.9 6117 17.00 -1.14 3.00 0.92 Quaker Fabric - 1898 1.13 0.00 West Coast office, located in and chief operating offi cer. ters in New York and offi ces in 16.08 11.60 Quiksilver 20.2 61152 15.13 -0.23 Beverly Hills. “Opening an office on the London and Los Angeles, spe- 39.55 25.81 Ramco-Gershenson 69.4 7315 37.20 -0.50 81.42 59.04 Regency Centers 44.7 14112 79.95 2.67 Reiner, an investment banker West Coast is indicative of our cializes in mergers and acquisi- 19.75 12.30 Retail Ventures - 13184 19.49 0.62 3.75 0.76 Revlon - 75349 1.30 -0.09 for close to 20 years, comes from expanding client base, increased tions, restructuring and private 26.70 9.73 Rocky Brands 11.9 911 16.96 1.03 32.40 22.12 Ross Stores 20.7 67350 33.29 1.88 CIBC World Markets, where he transaction volume and need to placements, along with consult- 21.45 14.10 Saks 26.3 120431 18.57 0.50 182.38 115.95 Sears 20.5 122077 177.78 11.74 was most recently managing di- be closer to our clients,” said ing and private equity services. 32.40 19.25 Shoe Carnival 19.6 5440 32.15 1.11 11.00 5.19 Shoe Pavilion 28.4 857 7.00 0.01 rector and leader of the fi rm’s Harrison in a statement. Its focus is primarily in retail 106.46 76.14 Simon Properties 61.4 54244 105.35 6.03 36.30 16.80 Skechers 23.1 36965 34.90 2.37 Los Angeles-based Consumer/ Susman added, “Steve will and apparel, with an ever-broad- 6.16 3.68 Sport-Haley - 698 5.03 0.03 18.20 11.27 Stein Mart 15.7 18940 13.93 0.91 Retail Group. In his new role at be a great leader for Financo, ening scope in the consumer 4.00 2.83 Stephan 40.0 33 3.59 0.04 44.70 18.63 Steve Madden 16.6 17731 34.98 -1.08 Financo, Reiner will also serve and we welcome him to the products sector. 16.93 11.90 Stride Rite 16.1 13986 16.37 1.41 13.40 10.00 Superior Uniform 36.6 116 12.50 -0.20 21.24 14.20 Syms 31.8 617 19.13 -0.01 1.38 0.33 Tag-It - 6030 1.37 0.18 31.00 17.30 Talbots 24.4 65965 24.30 1.29 WWDComposite Index 12.86 9.27 Tandy Brands - 401 12.64 0.81 Weekly % Changes Ending Jan. 12 8.32 5.75 Tandy Leather Factory 18.9 407 8.00 0.00 40.35 29.65 Tanger Factory Outlet 94.7 10579 39.00 1.32 60.34 44.70 Target 19.9 200722 60.31 3.04 2.20 1.03 Tarrant Apparel - 3033 1.55 0.01 53.73 35.66 Taubman 45.7 15563 54.15 3.82 Composite Gainers Decliners 13.73 8.15 Tefron 17.6 1933 10.84 0.17 41.12 29.63 Tiffany & Co. 22.4 84060 39.70 1.19 1031.61 37.61 24.80 Timberland 16.6 25339 29.95 -0.56 Close Change Close Change 29.98 22.16 TJ Maxx 16.7 134860 29.94 0.86 24.36 14.65 True Religion 17.5 32648 17.12 1.45 44.53 25.75 Tween Brands 18.7 95566 36.91 -3.89 Innovo 1.10 61.78 Oralabs 5.14 -61.41 54.00 25.85 Under Armour 74.7 21625 49.60 1.24 3.76 1.69 Unifi - 41284 2.01 -0.30 Movie Star 2.70 34.33 Unifi 2.01 -12.99 43.95 28.65 Unifirst 18.1 4299 42.21 -0.55 20.78 12.91 United Retail 6.0 3788 13.71 0.25 29.18 13.65 Urban Outfitters 36.1 191800 25.89 2.36 32.08 LJ Intl. 5.65 26.97 Delta Apparel 15.50 -12.18 83.29 53.25 V.F. Corp. 16.3 39564 80.86 -0.82 41.40 18.24 Volcom 25.8 18183 31.83 3.23 Tag-It 1.37 15.13 Tween Brands 36.91 -9.53 52.15 42.31 Wal-Mart 17.0 730898 47.98 0.59 27.21 15.75 Warnaco 23.6 16342 25.53 0.33 13.45 10.50 Wellco 13.2 34 10.50 -0.40 Iconix 20.76 14.38 House of Taylor 2.64 -9.28 48.11 36.77 Weingarten 27.2 22814 48.06 1.96 25.72 18.76 Weyco 13.2 541 23.43 0.17 4.13 1.77 Wilsons - 2760 1.93 0.00 30.20 20.26 Wolverine 19.0 11055 28.00 0.22 31.72 21.01 Zale 27.2 38200 27.57 0.69 COMPILED BY DATA NETWORK, HUNTINGTON, N.Y., 631-549-1014. NOTE: INFORMATION AND DATA, THOUGH BELIEVED ACCURATE, IS NOT GUARANTEED. DATA NETWORK SHALL 38.85 20.00 Zumiez 56.6 30967 35.81 3.24 NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY INACCURACIES. 20 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 WWD.COM

CASE CLOSED: A Paris the Journal appears to be looking for consultants to fi nd models Doutzen and Gabriel Aubry on location in Los court on Monday other areas to trim costs. The search for a fi rm comes Angeles. — Marc Karimzadeh dismissed a claim as the Journal is in contract negotiations with a union MEMO PAD fi led by Karl Lagerfeld representing editors and reporters, the Independent FOXY LADY: Move over, Kate Winslet — the “silver foxes” against journalist Alicia Association of Publishers’ Employees. are taking over Entertainment Weekly’s Jan. 19 issue. Drake. Lagerfeld had charged Drake with invasion of privacy, A spokeswoman for Dow Jones said, “We have In an industry that embraces 18-year-old “It” girls, the thanks to her book “The Beautiful Fall: Fashion, Genius consultants coming in here all the time and we don’t magazine has Golden Globe nominees Helen Mirren, Judi and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris,” comment about what they’re doing.” Dench and Meryl Streep on its cover. Will EW’s median which focuses on the rivalry between — Stephanie D. Smith reader, at 35 years old, feel turned off by the 60-plus trio? Lagerfeld and Yves Saint Laurent and Mirren, Dench and Streep participated in a roundtable their intertwined loves and muses IT’S ONLY ROCK ’N’ ROLL: After the inside that tackles women-in-Hollywood issues, including over the decade. The court found much-touted return of Kate Moss for aging. “I think there is a growing acceptance of the that there had only been temporary fall, Calvin Klein Jeans is going back fact that women actually make up 50 percent of the and limited sales of the book — less to house face Natalia Vodianova for population,” Mirren told EW. “And that women of our

than 50 copies — in France and that SIMS DAVID PHOTO BY spring. For her male counterpart, the generation are an economic force.” Dench had a different Drake was not responsible for the company is teaming the model up point of view. “...I do think it’s a fl uke when you get a sales and had not authorized them. with English musician Jamie Burke in year with a lot of very good parts written for women. It’s The court ordered Lagerfeld to pay steamy black-and-white images shot whatever is in fashion.” An EW spokesperson said, “The Drake 6,000 euros (approximately by David Sims. But there’s a twist: three ladies on our cover represent the A list of actresses $7,800) for her legal fees. Avid followers of weekly tabloids and all are front-runners for an Oscar.” — Amy Wicks “The Beautiful Fall is not may remember that Burke, who is and was never intended to be a the lead singer for Bloody Social, TV MOVES: Kate White’s dishy mystery novels set in the scandal-mongering book about was romantically linked to Moss magazine industry are being adapted for the small screen. the private life of Karl Lagerfeld for a blip second early last year, The Cosmopolitan editor in chief’s books featuring crime- and today’s judgment from the though that’s not the reason he is fi ghting magazine writer Bailey Weggins have been optioned French court proves that,” Drake in the campaign. “This season’s by Lifetime to become a possible television series. Lifetime said in a statement. “I believe (the clothes are edgy and a bit more has hired a writer to create a script for a pilot, though a date book) presents a fair and objective raw, and it wasn’t so much about when a pilot would be fi lmed has not been determined. account of the early career of needing to create a character as it White’s fi fth book in the series, “Lethally Blond,” will be in Karl Lagerfeld, his genius and was about fi nding a personality that bookstores in May, and she’s already at work on her sixth in his extraordinary infl uence as a exuded those qualities,” said Fabien the series, which is still untitled. — S.D.S. designer.” Céline Degoulet, counsel Baron, who created the ads with for Lagerfeld, said the designer was Jamie Burke and Natalia Vodianova in the Calvin Klein’s in-house agency CRK GLAMOROUS FLICKS: Glamour’s Reel Moments has gone satisfi ed with the decision, as long spring Calvin Klein Jeans campaign. Advertising. The ads will break in mobile: The second round of Reel Moments fi lms is now the book is never to be distributed March issues, and run in magazines available on samsung.com, which visitors can download in France.— Emilie Marsh such as Glamour, Lucky, Allure, Jane and In Style. For for free to their cell phones, or watch the shorts on spring, Vodianova also stars in the Calvin Klein Collection the Web site. One of each of the three fi lms will be SEEKING ADVICE: Time Inc. and Condé Nast aren’t the campaign, which for the fi rst time was photographed shown per month beginning February through April at only media companies hiring high-priced consultants to by Craig McDean and also features male model Bev samsungmobileusa.com/reelmoments. evaluate their business practices. Sources say The Wall Moore. The architectural ads feature the two posing In addition to their Web debut, all three fi lms were Street Journal is also looking for a consultant — McKinsey graphically against a crisp white background — as if shot recently accepted to the Santa Barbara Film Festival (not & Co. or another fi rm — to examine its editorial processes. against a white light box. The mood is reminiscent of the Sundance Film Festival, as Memo Pad incorrectly The move to seek outside guidance comes just weeks women’s creative director Francisco Costa’s spring runway reported Wednesday). The festival is an Oscar-qualifi er, after the Journal unveiled a splashy redesign that included presentation. The house’s white label ads, meanwhile, meaning the fi lms could be nominated for an Academy shrinking the paper by 3 inches, a move parent Dow were taken by Mikael Jansson and offer a continuation of Award in 2008 (a fi lm in the 2005 series, “Dealbreaker,” Jones & Co. said would save $18 million annually. Now the label’s recent television ads. The campaign features was accepted into Sundance). — S.D.S. G-Star Targets U.S.

2006 005- 52 -200 2004 4 -200 2003 3 -200 2002 2 -200 2001 2001 000- For Major Expansion New York is By Julee Greenberg G-Star’s spring ad. FASHION MARKETING NEW YORK — G-Star is about to make its mark on the U.S. The trendy high-end denim THE NEW SCHOOL brand, which is based in Amster- dam and reported increasing is New York sales in Europe, plans a major growth spurt in the U.S. this year. To kick it off, G-Star will Earn your degree at Parsons hold its fi rst U.S. fashion show at in Fashion Marketing Gotham Hall here on Feb. 7. “If you want to be an international brand, you have to be strong in the U.S. and Japan, which is what we are focusing on in 2007,” The runway isn’t the only way to launch your career in said Deepak Gayadin, North American director for G-Star. fashion. In Parsons’ intensive AAS program in Fashion The fashion show will also mark G-Star’s increased attention to Marketing you’ll learn how to influence the international women’s wear, since the brand has become known more for its men’s world of fashion from the people who already do, in the wear. In addition, the company has designed a collection of hand- made, tailored denim pieces to show on the runway next month. city where it all happens first. Internships are available. Made from raw denim in The Netherlands, the jeans will be avail- • able to consumers upon request. Retail prices start at $1,000. Learn directly from top fashion executives Gayadin said that women’s apparel accounted for 20 percent of • Gain both the skills and the global perspective today’s the collection before and is now 40 percent of the brand’s offering. “The women’s market is stronger in the U.S. than it is in Europe, leaders look for in tomorrow’s industry talent so for us, this is a big change,” he said. “We’ve hired a women’s de- • Study on campus or online sign team and realize the importance of the women’s collection, so the show in New York will be mostly women.” Other intensive AAS programs offered in Fashion Studies, The company’s retail strategy is ambitious, with plans to open Graphic Design, and Interior Design. about 60 more company-owned stores worldwide in 2007. The new shops will add to the 73 locations already open. Eight of the new Information Session units will be in the U.S., with the fi rst in Union Square here on Thursday, January 25, at 6:30 p.m. June 15. That location is 3,000 square feet, compared with the 2,200- square-foot G-Star store in SoHo. It also will have a wider assort- 65 Fifth Avenue, NYC ment of women’s wear. “It will look a lot like the other store, but a bit more updated and To RSVP and for more information, contact admissions at modern,” Gayadin said. 212.229.8989 or visit us online. Other stores will be opening in cities that include Moscow, Bangkok and Kiev. www.parsons.newschool.edu/fashionmarketing G-Star aims to increase its ad presence, with placements in trade and consumer publications like Rolling Stone and The New York Times Magazine. Gayadin declined to give volume projections for 2007 but indus- try sources predicted the company would reach $60 million in retail volume in the U.S. by the end of this year, a 40 percent increase from a year ago. WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 21 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

SQL Series Software www.ngcsoftware.com

Red Horse ERP Business Mgmt. e-SPS Global Sourcing System e-PDM Product Data Mgmt.

1412 Broadway Miami (305) 556-9122 New York (212) 369-3778 [email protected] 22 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 WWD.COM/CLASSIFIEDS

PTTNS/SMPLS/PROD High qlty, reasonable price. Any de- HANDBAG DESIGNER sign & fabric. Fast work. 212-714-2186 SEQUEL INTERNATIONAL A leading watch and jewelry manufacturer / distributor seeks CLOSE OUTS experienced, highly motivated individuals. We are looking We Buy Men’s, Classic American Handbag and Leathergoods Brand for new members to join our team located in Norwalk, CT Women’s & Children’s This position is based in Fairhaven, MA on the south shore of Boston. All Quantities Due to our tremendous growth we are seeking exceptional Assistant Brand Manager Positions WE HAVE INSTANT MONEY design talent to join our team. We are nice people to deal with GUESS International Watches & GUESS Jewelry Candidate Requirements • Responsible for brand and product development in con- Also HBA and General Merchandise. • 3-5 years relevant design experience, emphasis in better leather handbags Call Rocky 800-762-5488 junction with the Brand Manager • Proven ability to understand and incorporate marketing principles and apply • Excellent organizational and communication skills re- to design within set timelines quired, must be detailed oriented • Excellent organizational and follow-up skills • Be flexible and balance a changing workload in a fast • Superb color sense paced environment • Exceptional ability to apply and perform design skills such as drawing / • Analytical skills, and a high proficiency in MS Office espe- sketching, use of texture, visual presentation development and layout cially Excel and PowerPoint • Presentation and public speaking skills • Bachelors degree required • Bachelor’s degree in Apparel Design or Accessory Design • Ideally 2-3 yrs with a major retailer or product develop- • Proficient in Adobe Illustrator and Excel ment experience • Travel to Europe, Asia, and New York Brahmin offers a generous benefits package, competitive salary and International Planner bonus, commensurate with experience. • Responsible for creating and executing the intake flow E-mail resume to: [email protected] from manufacturing by classification and by individual SKU’s for the international marketplace • Review product assortment • Manage available inventory • Candidates must have previous experience as wholesale Search For Space In Garment Center or retail planner or assistant buying ideally in the accessories Showroom/Office/Retail - no fee ASSOCIATE DESIGNER market www.midcomre.com • Excellent organizational and communication skills, must Or Call Paul 212 947-5500 X 100 Leading outerwear company be highly detailed oriented Showrooms & Lofts seeks highly motivated creative • Be flexible and balance a changing workload GRAPHIC ARTIST & organized individual to work BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS • Strong analytical skills required Great ’New’ Office Space Avail Seeking a creative & motivated with Mens’ & Boys’ design ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 Graphic Artist able to design team. Technical garment • Proficient in MS Office graphics, trims & hardware to construction and computer • Bachelors Degree required Fashionable Women’s Special Occasion be used on young men’s and literacy in Illustrator a must. Sequel International is based in Norwalk, Connecticut ladies’ garments. Candidates Minimum 3 yrs Mens’ and/ Contact info:[email protected]/ FAX: 203-866-0736 Dress Store for Sale must be MAC proficient in Located in Uupscale Shopping Plaza or Boys’ experience critical. Equal Opportunity Employer/M/F/D/V in Sunny Boca Raton, FL. High Net! Illustrator and Photoshop. Please email resumes to Broadway Garment Center Finest alterations on premisis. Call: Excellent salary & benefits! [email protected] NICE OFFICE + SHOWROOM Kate Markowitz-Costello @ 954-592-6741 AVAILABLE TO SHARE Please fax resume to: Please Call Joan @ 917-698-6111 (212) 768-4615 Email: Reserve Now [email protected] FASHION RESUMES Staff Thru Executive-Wholesale/Retail Free Evaluation - Lifetime Updates RECEPTION-DATA ENTRY GILBERT CAREER RESUMES (800)967-3846 amex/mc/visa Well established Branded / Private Label fashionresumes.com Company seeks individual to handle phones, order entry, & customer service. PRODUCTION AVAILABLE Must have minimum 3 years experience, Established MFG of shirts, blouses & be computer literate & able to multitask. polos in D.R. Long term production Great working environment and good available. Call Steve at: 860 -677-7207 benefits. PLEASE FAX OR E-MAIL RESUME TO: Reserve a booth now at the premier hiring event 212 869 5356 or [email protected] for the fashion, retail and beauty industries. Meet CHILDREN’S DESIGNER hundreds of prescreened candidates in one day! Southern California Better Women’s Jewelry/Handbag Partner COMPUTER Apparel Co. seeks Designer w/3-5 years Vintage store seeks jewelry and/or exp. for its updated sportswear division. FEBRUARY 9 10 AM - 3 PM GOTHAM HALL, NYC handbag partner with vintage inspired ARTIST Eye for trend colors, prints, and treat- designs. Share rent, promotional costs TECHNICAL DESIGNER Major Childrenswear Company seeks a ments req’d. Knowledge of knits a plus. for long-term commitment. Not inter- talented & experienced Girls Artist to CAD/Illustrator a must; Organizational ested in consignment. 917-837-3645 NYC The ideal candidate will have a min. work in Illustrator. Must be able to skills, time management and travel to of 5 yrs of experience, with formal draw flats and have great color sense. Bali several times a year are essential. education in pattern making, ability Please email resumes to: Competitive compensation package of- [email protected] fered. Please E-mail all resumes to: to work in a fast paced environment Contact Linda Richman at: [email protected] Contact Seth Berk for reservations: & ability to work with designers to 212-244-6023 ext. 255 critique fit, drape and balance and 212-655-4505, ext. 244 then convey corrections to overseas DESIGN ASSISTANT Design GARMENT-REPAIRS Fast paced NYC apparel co seeks high [email protected] factories with detailed construction energy, creative individual. Must have Fashion Queen Management Inc sketches using Illustrator. Strong minimum 1-2 yrs experience w/ a de- verbal & written skills are required gree in fashion design. Must have the www.FashionCareerExpo.com (Specializing in Garment Alter- to communicate with factories & following program knowledge: Illustra- tor CS2 or 9.0, Photoshop, Microsoft Fast Growing Luxury Menswear Company ations / Trimmings / Trucking) Vendors. Must be proficient with Outlook & Excel. Pls fax resume & based in South Norwalk CT looking Web PDM. EXCELLENT BENEFITS. salary req’s to: [email protected] to fill 2 positions in the design dept. Brooklyn, New York Please email resume to: Design Asst./Jr. Fit Model DESIGNER [email protected] Energetic, organized designer w/min 5 Design ECI New York E-Mail: [email protected] Leading importer of knits and sweaters yrs experience in similar high-end A better manufacturer of Women’s looking for full time Junior Model/Design INFANT/TODDLER Branded & Private Label Sportswear Cheong: 347-680-2253 market. Extensive knowledge of all Assistant at NYC showroom. aspects of men’s design including den- and Dresses currently has career DESIGNER 50-65K opportunities available in the follow- Height 5’7" - Bust 35" - Bra Size 34B im, bottoms and jackets. Photoshop / Leading newborn and infantwear Co. Fashion Queen Management temp Illustrator and PDM required. ing categories: ADMIN ASST – ENTRY LEVEL Waist 27" - Low Hip 37" seeking designer with experience in Technical Designer workers can come to your business or Leading Accessories Co seeks hard- Great salary & benefits with opportunity TECHNICAL DESIGNER infant & toddler fashion for boys & girls. Fabric Coordinator ship your repairs to our factory. working, reliable, detail oriented person for growth. Must be computer literate. Must have experience in fit, sample re- Strong Illustrator & Photoshop skills Design Assistant to work in busy, fast paced atmosphere. Please fax resume to VP of Design at: view, communicating with factories, required. Please email resume to: Production Assistant Must be computer literate. Fax resume: highly organized. Must know how to [email protected] 212-869-7811 212-221-8569 ECI is a great home for individuals measure garments, knowledge of grad- that love Fashion and have a strong PATTERN/SAMPLES ing. 2-4 yrs experience in technical desire to succeed. The above positions Reliable. High quality. Low cost. Fast design, PDM and Aria PDM required. require minimum 2 years experience work. Small/ Lrg production 212-629-4808 ADMIN/SALES ASST $50K DESIGNER ASST JR’S Email resume as a Word attachment Design/Merchandiser Coord and must have good trade references. Jr Sweater co seeks Tech Designer to: [email protected] Exceptional oppty for an experienced Email: [email protected] AS400 Great Growth Oppty knowledgeable design / merchandise PATTERNS, SAMPLES, [email protected] with min 3 years exp to join fast paced Fax: 212-382-0237 import team. Able to generate sketch- manager for leading Inf/Toddler Div, PRODUCTIONS es and initial spec packages. Must Featuring footwear, headwear, swim Fabric/Trim Coord $65K All lines, Any styles. Fine Fast Service. know Excel and have good organiza- Design and rainwear products. Direct liaison Call Sherry 212-719-0622. tion and follow-up skills with overseas between head of div, retailers & design Coord, Allocate & Administrate Dom/Int’l factories. Fax resume: 212-382-2549 HAWKE & CO team. Excellent oppty for long term *Asst Fabric Buyer to $45k BABY PHAT *Asst Trim Buyer to $40K PATTERNS, SAMPLES, Designer & Graphic Designers Needed growth. Orient experience preferred. OUTFITTER Fax resume: 212-869-7811 Attn David [email protected] 212-947-3400 Infants through 16 Come join the most exciting Outerwear PRODUCTIONS Email: [email protected] Full service shop to the trade. DESIGNER Company in the Country. We are looking Fine fast work. 212-869-2699. for forward thinkers to work in a Grader Marker Manager $70-80K. Junior & Plus Size creative and fun environment. Current exp in womenswear. Supervise Patterns/Samples/Production Seeking a full time junior and plus three people on Gerber. Call: 973-564- Bookkeeper/Full Charge size fashion designer. Min of 8 years DESIGNER ASSISTANT 9236 or Email: [email protected] Snaps/Covered Button Women’s Couture Co seeks exp’d experience with fashion related to Work with the Design Staff creative & Design Room Mgr to $120K. Current Any Style - Full Service bookkeeper for PT work. QuickBooks, ethnic and discount retailers. Travel executing line development. Position exp in supervising min. 20 designers, Graphic Artist to 60K. Exp in Layette, Call 212-278-0608 / 646-441-0950 payroll, computer literate, ability to domestic and international a must. require Illustrator & Photoshop, good skill GA’s, assistants, etc. Boyswear li- Baby, Cutesy, Sweet, Girly appliques Beading Service By Professional work under deadlines a must. Exp. in working w/ overseas factories of sketching & good sense of embroidery. censed co. Strong in mgmnt of design and prints. Illustrator proficiency. Contract: Penney 917-576-3138 Call 212-869-2296 or & fabric suppliers. Computer literate. Excellent salary & opportunity for growth. flow, calendar scheduling, etc. Call 973- Full time perm only. Fax resume 212-869-2236. Fax resume to: (800) 866-1085 Please fax Attn Design: 212-643-0414 564-9236 or email: [email protected] [email protected] 973-564-9236 WWD, TUESDAY, JANUARY 16, 2007 23

GRAPHIC DESIGNER Prod’n. Asst./Tech Design QUALITY ASSURANCE SALES EXECUTIVE Children’s Sales Missy Sportswear Jr./Young Contemporary Co. seeks exp’d. Midtown home product and lighting Upscale Children’s Shop seeks Assistant mfgr seeks self-motivator with exp in Must have strong contacts w/ Dept and person for tech-pack prepping, garment chain stores. Grow existing & expand Managers for its Upper East Side loca- specs, color/embroidery, approval correc- Wal-Mart/ CTL testing and color proce- tions. Applicants should possess strong dures. Knowledge of stitching, fabric branded & private label business. tions, and communication w/overseas. Exciting oppty to join our team. Must selling/communication skills. Friendly, Seeking Fashion Graphic Designer for Must speak English well (Chinese helpful). quality and construction needed. 2 energetic, customer service oriented, our branded and private label hosiery, years exp plus excellent communica- be enthusiastic, detail oriented, highly E-mail resume: e.coviello @yahoo.com motivated w/ excellent communication with the ability to interact with custom- socks and accessories. Candidate must tion, organization and pc skills. ers, as well as colleagues is a must. Prior be highly creative, understand and Send resumes & salary reqs to: seeks skills 5 yrs exp. Competitive salary & Product Devel $65-70K benefits. Retail Sales experience a plus. Competi- interpret trends Looking for multi- [email protected] or fax 718-422-0780. tive hourly salary with bonus potential. tasker, detail oriented, fast paced with Sweater & Knits. SALES ASSISTANTS Test/Analyze Yarns & Fabrics SALES ASST Medical benefits. Applicants should Fax good communication skills. Photoshop Energetic and self-motivated indi- their resume to: 914-697-7679 and Illustrator a must. Email resume to: [email protected] 212-947-3400 Quality Control vidual with proven sales exp and Highly energetic, self motivated sales [email protected] Dress/Sportswear Co. seeks an exp’d. asst to work w/ upper mngt on key Excellent salary & opportunity for growth Quality Control person with strong leadership qualities. Must have Accts. Must have 2 yrs exp w/ excellent Product Development Mgr. computer & communication skills. Exclusive Boutique knowledge of garment construction to strong dept and specialty store F/T or P/T Salesperson w/own following. DEREK LAM travel to N.Y.C. contractors. Please Fax Please fax resume to 212-764-7807 or LAWYER Individual will be exposed to all aspects following. Computer skills are E-mail to: [email protected] High commission. For more info, contact all resumes to: 516-829-7881 Ann; Mon.-Sat., 11AM-6PM: 212-265-4778 A boutique NYC law practice in the of the design process from concept, to required. Position is in the New fashion/ creative industries is seeking the selection of fabric to the fit of the Retail Planner $70-80k. Current exp in replenishment analysis for apparel co York Showroom for Sportswear & SALES KIDSWEAR an ASSOCIATE ATTORNEY. 4+ years garments. They will follow & develop Dress Divisions. ... Better infantsw’r Hi$ transactional experience in trademark, garments from idea conception to the req. Review sales trends, projections ... Walmart specialist Hi$ corporate, employment, some litigation, sample-making stage. They’ll also ensure w/ store accounts. [email protected] Pls email resume to: ... Mid-tier majors Hi$ immigration a plus. Top credentials req’d. a smooth transition from sampling to [email protected] Contact: [email protected] production. Candidate must be extremely SALES ASSISTANT A.D FORMAN ASSOC. organized & detail oriented. They must Junior Apparel Company seeks asst to 450 7TH AVE (AGCY) 212-268-6123 MEN’S TECH DESIGNER have an understanding of the quality and follow up sales and buyer communica- Lge apparel co seeks efficient team taste level that is Derek Lam. Knowledge tions. Must be detail oriented, organ- SALES PRO player w/ Men’s knit/woven exp w/ of garment construction & patternmaking ized and exp’d in Microsoft Outlook, a major plus. Fax resumes: 212-929-1581 Successful Missy / Plus knit sweater / spec/construction details. Strong skills Word & Excel. Please email resume to blouse importer seeks highly motivated, [email protected] Seeks aggressive, highly motivated, to follow-up on design communica- experienced salesperson w/strong aggressive, detailed individual to gen- tions & approvals w/ overseas offices. Production Assistant erate new business. Must have strong ACCESSORIES Proficiency in Illustrator/Photoshop. Intimate Apparel Company seeks Sales Assistant dept / specialty chain contacts to contacts with JCPenney, Federated, Belk, Competitive salary & great benefits pkge. highly motivated & detail oriented Leading Women’s Apparel Co seeks cultivate new and maintain existing Marmaxx, Saks, Inc. You should be SALES EXECUTIVE Fax resume to: indiv. for major follow up with facto- detail oriented candidate with min 2 accounts for Sportswear & Dress knowledgeable in cut & sew knits and Sales leader, 20 years experience, who is HR Assoc. 212-556-5462/5398 ries in fast paced environment. Will years exp to assist in EDI, process sweaters. If you have a strong customer well connected with major retailers at oversee all aspects of production to orders, run various reports, work with Divisions. Candidate must be self account base, please Fax your resume corporate buying level. Looking for sales MERCHANDISING AND ensure on-time delivery thru daily small stores and other various admin- starter & have excellent computer to: 212-840-5809 or else E-mail to: opportunity. Please Call: 609-519-1399 communication between design/sales istrative duties. Must have high energy skills. Exp’d need only apply!! [email protected] PRODUCTION ASSOCIATE & overseas vendors. Must have work- level. Oppty to grow in fast paced envi- Top Accessories Co. seeks candidates ing knowledge of Microsoft Outlook, ronment. Great package. Pls email resume to: with product development & merchan- Word & Excel. FAX resume, attn.: E. Fax to HR Mgr. 212-354-3051 [email protected] dising exp. Must be computer savvy, Williams (212) 842-4031. EOE. have strong communication skills, be Samplemaker $600 a week. Must have organized & detail oriented. Knowledge Production Assistant exp in expensive designer dresses, suits, of Illustrator a PLUS. We are looking Midtown home product and lighting sprtswr. Full time perm only. Call 973- Account Exec & Sales Rep for a TEAM PLAYER who is willing to mfgr seeks organized and detail- 564-9236 or Email [email protected] Eliot Stephens, a new Intimate Apparel wear many different hats. Will work oriented individual for fast-paced & Sleepwear Co. that’s headed toward with designers & factories. Please fax production dept. 2 years exp needed SAMPLE MAKER better end Juniors, is seeking both a or e-mail resume to: 212 221-1278 or with strong communication and pc Growing Women’s Couture Company Sales Rep, and an Account Executive. [email protected] skills; exp with mass retailers a plus. seeks highly skilled exp’d individual. Must be exp’d., motivated, and have est’d. Send resumes & salary reqs to Stable position with growth oppty. relationships with Dept./Specialty Stores. [email protected] or fax 718-422-0780. Emphasis on evening. Great people to work with and very fair Merchandising Asst. Call 212-869-2296 or with pay. Fax or E-mail all resumes to: Girls’ division of Lingerie Co. seeks a Production Coord $50-55K Exp in putting Fax resume to 212-869-2236 212-685-5390 / [email protected] motivated individual with analytical and production pkgs together for Far East. organizational skills. Excellent Excel & Chinese, English bilingual. Approvals of TD’s TD’s TD’s TD’s TD’s communication skills req’d.; ability to fabric, art, fit, samples. Mdtn. Call: 973- Account Executive prioritize & multi-task. Fax: 212-689-4082 564-9236 or Email: [email protected] I NEED TD’S!! Italian Designer multi-line showroom *TD Dir. Jeanswear-Supervise 30 $150K seeks exp’d. Salesperson with strong Spe- Production Coord Asst *TD MGR - Jeans-Supervise 3 $100K cialty & Dept. Store relationships. 57th St. MINNESOTA JOBS *TD Mgr- Contemp Bridge $90-$110K location. Fax resume to: 212-921-0123 Moderate Sportswear Vertical Retailer Major Apparel Co located in midtown Exp with high end products *SR Product Mgr $140K+ area seeks individual w/ strong follow *TD Runway Embellishments Dress $85K *SR Trim Developer $115K+ up and organizational skills. Resp *TD Outerwear- Bottoms $85K+Bonus [email protected] 212-947-3400 include tracking, daily contact with *TD Woven Tops & Bottoms $80-$85K factories and sales. Order overseas Account Executive Patternmaker $100-120K Current exp in *NJ Tech Designer-PDM $80-$85K samples. Must have knowledge in *TD Vintage Clothing/Washes $75K Well est’d. NYC Men’s, Ladies, and Boys better to designer pants, tailored coats, customs/quotas. Must be able to multi- Sleepwear/Robe Co. seeks a motivated jackets etc. Must hang w Marc Jacobs, *JR Tech Moderate Sportswear $45K task. 3 - 5 yrs production exp required. [email protected] 212-947-3400 and qualified Account Executive for our Michael Kors, RLauren, Zac Posen etc. Proficiency in Word, Excel and Out- JCPenney account. Must have thorough 973-564-9236 or [email protected] look. Excellent communication skills. knowledge of JCPenney’s systems and Fax resume to: 973-258-0978 TECH. ASSISTANT processes. Excellent Opportunity. Salary PATTERNMAKER Leading manufacturer private label Div. commensurate with experience. Benefits Designer apparel Co. seeks highly Production Coordinator seeking Tech Asst. Must be computer and 401K. Fax resume to: 646-304-8489 skilled, exp’d from first thru produc- Ladies’ import co seeks person to han- literate, with excellent verbal & written tion patternmaker, should have exp. dle daily follow up w/ overseas factory, w/ knits & wovens. Fax resume w/c issue P.O., L/C, import documents, communication skills. Individual must CASSIN letter: 212-398-9695 track O/S shipments. Min 5 yrs exp in be efficient & fast paced but extremely Seeks exp’d Sales Associate to join garment field. E-mail resume w/ sal detail oriented. Knits knowledge is a team. Est’d “A-Level” goldrange yg Patternmaker to $100-110K. Current req to: [email protected] plus. Please e-mail your resume to: designer store following a must. strong exp in contemporary bridge to Requirements incl strong comm. skills, designer knit & woven dresses. Call: 973- [email protected] detail-oriented, sales analysis and moti- 564-9236 or Email: [email protected] PRODUCTION COORDINATOR vated w/proven ability to grow busi- Lge private label co. seeks 2-3 yrs exp. TECHNICAL ness. Int’l store contacts a plus. E-mail Must have ability to interface between resume to:[email protected] P/G PURCHASER design & production teams. Team Looking for an experienced piece good DESIGNER/MANAGER player w/ excellent organizational skills. Lingerie importer seeks technical purchasor for multi-divisional "After 5" Will monitor deadlines, traffic, appro- Dress company. In addition to being designer needed to develop & grade vals & communicate w/ overseas offi- specs, comment on fit samples, Fabric Salesperson computer literate, candidate must ces. Competitive salary & full benefits. have excellent follow up skills and be communicate w/ overseas factories & Fabric Wholesale Co. seeks aggressive able to work well under pressure. Fax Resumes to HR Assoc. manage department. You will be salesperson to maintain existing accts Email resume and salary 212-556-5369/5431 responsible for the fit process through and acquire new accts. Please fax re- requirements in confidence to production. Must have previous sumes to Natalie Tex. 212-997-0367. [email protected] Production Coordinator experience, be organized & be NY based children’s wear importer seeks proficient in preparing computerized an organized, detail oriented individual tech packages. We offer a great work to handle all phases of production. Will environment & competitive benefits pckg. work with sales, design, and overseas E-mail resume including salary history manufacturers. Successful candidate to: [email protected] Johnny Was PLANNER must be organized and have 5 years. Seeking a seasoned and enthusiastic experience. Must be organized, thorough, Leading Intimate Apparel Company Account Executive to join our corporate and able to work in a fast paced New York sales team. This candidate will located in Northern NJ seeks exp’d environment. Planner to analyze & forecast inventory Fax: (212) 643-1345 or possess existing relations within the needs for a multi-million dollar business. Email: [email protected] contemporary market to assure main- TECHNICAL DESIGNER tenance & growth of our several divi- Major job functions include: Production Manager Sleepwear Mfr. Seeks experienced sions. E-mail resume & salary history • Creating & maintaining sale/inventory individual with strong technical skills. to: [email protected] plans by SKU for up to 1500 sku’s ANNA CORINNA At least 5 Years experience in knit and • Generating and presenting weekly/ Bag co seeks a production mgr. Grow- woven garment construction and Ladies’ Outerwear monthly sales inventory reports ing rapidly. Must have min 3 yrs exp patternmaking. Must be able to conduct Seeking Salesperson w/ est’d contacts • Creating seasonal and yearly financial in bag production. Must be detail ori- fit sessions and evaluate PP samples with buyers in major chain stores, plans and forecasts ented, have sourcing capabilities, good from overseas factories. Daily email private label and branded. Customer • Working with production team to references. Please email resume to with overseas office and suppliers to following a must. Please email resume: ensure a smooth flow of product to [email protected] communicate changes required to [email protected] support sales specifications and patterns. Strong • Working with the distribution team to computer skills in excel. Great oppor- ensure on time shipment of product PRODUCTION MGR tunity to work within a strong company. Women’s couture evening wear co. Send resume and salary history to Love Sales? Successful candidate seeks prod. mgr to oversee & direct all [email protected] NYC Photography Co. looking for highly will possess the following: aspects of domestic prod. Pricing, motivated, self-starter, Entrepreneurial • 3-4 years retail or manufacturing sourcing, mfg and QC from inception Sales Big Hitter, with 5+ years proven planning experience preferably with to delivery. Must be extremely organ- track record. HR@SarahMerians .com mid-tier or Mass-market retailers ized, detail oriented, computer literate •Superior computer skills, specifically & supervise staff. Fax 212-221-0509. Technical Designer Microsoft Excel 1 YOUNIQUE CLOTHING •Merchandise flow & product delivery knowledge DENIM/KNITS/WOVENS OUTERWEAR/SKI WEAR •Proven problem-solving skills Due to expansion, we are seeking self Exclusive distributor for Italian designer •Strong follow-through skills & ability to PRODUCTION PATTERNMAKERS motivated, well organized, team player lines Peuterey, Geospirit & Kejo® with present analytical reports to manage Knit/Woven exp in Juniors or Missy or technical designers. Must be proficient NY showroom seeks Salesperson with ment and to Buyers Maternity areas. Must be able to drape in technical flat sketching of all styles 3-5 yrs. exp. in the women’s outerwear •Ability to travel domestically 2-3 days & fit on models. Fast paced style in Illustrator, have knowledge of gar- &/or ski wear wholesale business. High per month. envirnmnt. Competitive salary & great ment construction and build detailed end specialty & dept. store contacts is benefits pkge based on experience. tech packs using Microsoft Excel, as a must. [email protected] Excellent salary and benefit package. Fax resume for interview: well as basic knowledge of Photoshop. For immediate consideration, please HR Associate 212-556-5462 /5398 PLEASE FAX RESUME : 212-764-9185 forward your resume to: [email protected] SALES EXECUTIVE PROD DEV/DESIGN COORDINATOR *Product or Production* Accessory company and brand looking Creative Prod. Development Position Assistants-Coordinators-Managers Temp/Freelance for a highly motivated Sales Executive. Must Have Recent Intimates exp. Many Jobs-Excellent Salaries TD-Wovens/TD Sweaters/TD Knits Min 3 years exp with established dept [email protected] Call (212)643-8090 Fax (212)643-8127 AGCY $20Hr- $30Hr- $40Hr- $50Hr- $60Hr stores, chains & mid-tier accounts. [email protected] 212-947-3400 Email: [email protected]