t the start of the 19th century, the United States began to build small fore-and-aft rigged sailing ships called A , offering great manoeuvrability and elegance. The was designed in 1819 and launched the same year. She was equipped with a central swivel carronade and was lightly armed. Due to its high speed, the Virginia was employed as a revenue cutter, intercepting ships and inspecting cargos.

TECHNICAL DATA: The Virginia Model no: 22135 Degree of difficulty: Length: 540mm (211/4in) Height: 500mm (19 11/16in) Beam: 120mm (4 11/16in) Scale: 1:41

Not suitable for children under 14 years of age. Model for collectors only. SCHOONERS 1 THE VIRGINIA The word ‘’ is believed to be derived from ‘scoon’, a Scottish or English dialect word meaning ‘to skim’, a reference to the way these speedy sailing boats skipped across the water. The ‘sch’ spelling was later adopted from the Dutch.

he first schooners were, in fact, built in the Netherlands Tin the 16th or 17th century, but the form was developed, and became famous, in North America in the 18th century. The first vessel to bear the name ‘schooner’ was built by a shipwright called Andrew Robinson, and was launched in what was then the British colony of Massachusetts in 1713. A schooner has at least two masts, flying fore-and-aft sails on both. On a schooner, the foremast is shorter, or the same height as the others. This distinguishes the schooner from the ketch, where the mainsail is flown DeAgostini from the forward mast (which thus becomes the mainmast). A two- masted schooner, on the other hand, Above: A 19th-century two-masted English fitted to a . This arrangement has the mainsail on the aft mast. schooner with full rigging sails serenely on virtually doubles the sail area that the waters off the coast of England. would be available if a triangular sail Doubling the sail area Below: Boats such as this three-masted were to be fitted to the same mast. schooner are expensive to build and Most schooners are gaff-rigged. This maintain. Racing them is a rich man’s Gaff-rigged schooners usually carry an means the sails are four-cornered, hobby and has been described as ‘ripping additional triangular fore-and-aft rather than triangular and controlled up 100 dollar bills while standing in the above the gaff sail on the shower’. But it is popular, and races such at the head by a spar, or pole, known as the America’s Cup series capture the mainmast and sometimes the as a gaff, with the base of the sail public imagination when they are run. foremast. Some larger schooners have a square topsail added to the foremast for extra power. Most schooners will also have one or more , a triangular sail set ahead of the foremast and fixed to the .

Multi-masted In theory, there is no limit to the number of masts on a schooner, and several examples with three or more masts were built in the USA as cargo ships, especially towards the end of the 19th century. Although they had large capacities, they lacked the

DeAgostini speed and particularly the manoeuvrability of the two-masted version, which was by far the most popular. Two- and three-masted been estimated, for example, that The largest schooner – and largest schooners also had the economic more than 2,000 schooners were sailing ship without an auxiliary 2 THE VIRGINIA advantage that they could be sailed by under sail in the late 19th century – engine – ever built was the seven- a smaller crew than other sailing the heyday for this sort of transport – masted, steel-hulled Thomas W vessels of comparable size. carrying cargoes and passengers from Lawson, launched in 1902 and In the USA, in particular, and city to city across the Great Lakes and wrecked off the Scilly Isles in a especially in the 19th century, two- up and down the St Lawrence. Packet storm just five years later. masted schooners were preferred in boats, which carried mail, passengers, any situation where speed and the small freight items and even livestock ability to sail into the wind were along waterways in the United States cargo work. More thoroughbred paramount. In warfare they were were often rigged as schooners. versions were, however, developed in pressed into service as privateers, and Most schooners built were the 19th century as pleasure yachts, in the War of 1812 between the USA essentially workhorses. The scow particularly for racing. Many of the and Britain, and the American Civil schooner, for example, which most famous and speediest American War, among other conflicts, they featured a schooner sailing rig set on a racing yachts of the 19th century were used to run goods through to flat-bottomed hull, was developed in were schooners, including arguably blockaded ports. The same qualities North America for shallow-water the most famous of them all, America. also made them popular with smugglers, and those whose job it was to fight maritime crime, such as the US Revenue Cutter Service, were also equipped with speedy, ocean- going schooners in order to compete. Some were armed with cannon.

Maritime workhorses Schooners were also used for off- shore and deep-water fishing, and were especially popular with the fishing fleets sailing from Massachusetts and the eastern seaboard of Canada, where a three- masted version, known as a ‘tern’ was favoured. They made excellent pilot vessels, and were used for this purpose in Canada, the USA and the ports of northern Europe, including Britain. Schooners of various sizes were used in North America as cargo boats on both coastal and deep-water runs, but really came into their own for this Above: The scow schooner Alma on San Francisco Bay circa 1900. (San Francisco purpose on inland waterways. It has Maritime National Historical Park)

AMERICA America, a 170-ton, two-masted gaff schooner designed by George Steers, was built for a syndicate from the New York Yacht Club, who commissioned a racing yacht to take on and beat the best Europe had to offer. Steers based it on a pilot boat, with a concave clipper bow. Launched in May 1851, America sailed across the Atlantic and won the Royal Yacht Squadron's ‘One Hundred Guinea Cup’ on a 53-mile (85-kilometre) course around the Isle of Wight in August that year, thus inaugurating the America’s Cup. GENERAL TIPS 1 THE VIRGINIA: GENERAL TIPS ATTENTION! Assemble under adult supervision. Unsuitable for children under 14. To assemble this model we recommend that you follow the step-by-step guide. 1 4 8

1. Follow all assembly steps CAREFULLY. 4. To ensure the perfect adjustment of cast GLUES Take all the time you need. First look at the metal parts, go over the edges with a small Apply glue sparingly and in strict accordance photos and read all the documentation included file before fitting to eliminate possible burrs with the manufacturer’s instructions. There are in the kit, as it will help you assemble the and impurities. three types of glues that can be used to model correctly: assemble the model. •Parts list with Dimensions and Materials. White glue •Cut Sheet with precision-cut numbered parts. 5 This is also known as carpenter’s glue or PVA. •These instructions. It can be applied directly or with a brush to one of the parts to be glued. Clean off any excess glue immediately after joining the parts to avoid staining when fully dry. Contact glue 2 This glue can be applied with either a brush or a flat spatula. Apply a thin coat to both surfaces to be joined. Before joining the parts, leave for approximately five minutes. After joining the parts, apply light pressure and remove any 5. To give a more authentic appearance to excess glue. the ship’s sails, dye them in some tea. When Quick-drying glue completely dry, add them to the ship without Apply a tiny amount directly to the point where ironing them. the parts are to be joined. It is very important that the parts are correctly positioned as you will not be able to move the parts again to set 2. To remove the wood pieces (see Cut 6 them correctly. Sheets), carefully cut the tiny strands joining them to the sheet. Use the Cut Sheets to PUTTIES identify fully the precision-cut parts. Use regular stopping putty for wood. Read the After removing the parts from the sheets to manufacturer’s instructions carefully! use them during assembly, carefully sand them Applying putty before gluing in place. To fill holes or cracks in the ship’s hull, apply Given the nature and origin of the wood, the putty with a flat spatula. Allow to dry and there may be slight differences in the tone softly sand the entire surface of the hull to level or colour of some material. off the putty. VARNISHES 6. For parts that need bending or curving, Use clear (not coloured) stopping varnish. Read 3 dampen them in water for greater flexibility. the manufacturer’s instructions carefully! You can also use a tool called a bending press, Applying varnish which is highly useful during assembly. Use a brush to apply varnish to wood. Sand the surface and thoroughly clean the part before varnishing. Varnish as follows: 7 1. Apply a first coat and allow to dry. 2. When dry, sand and clean the part. 3. Repeat Steps 1 and 2. 4. Apply a third coat and allow to dry. 5. When dry, polish the part using steel wool. PAINTS 3. To cut to size and identify the parts which Use acrylic (water-based) paints. Read the are not prefabricated, look at the parts list manufacturer’s instructions carefully! where you will find: •Part number. Applying paint •Part description. Use a paintbrush. Sand the surface and clean the part thoroughly before painting. Paint in the •Number of same parts to be cut and used 7. Before mounting the pulley blocks or dead- in the model. eyes, it is best to enlarge the holes with a following order. •Part dimensions (thickness, width, length, 0.75mm diameter drill. 1. Apply a coat of varnish to prepare the in that order). surface to be painted. Allow the part to dry. •Material used to make the parts (subject to 2. When dry, sand and clean the part. modification by prior notification. 3. Apply a first coat of paint and allow to dry. 4. When dry, apply a second coat of paint. LIST OF PARTS PARTS OF VIRGINIA: LIST 2 THE Required tools and accessories: Recommended extra tools and accessories: •White glue (item 27601) All tools and •Half-round file (item 27052) •Quick-dying glue (item 27611) materials are •Plank bender (item 27024) •Hand drill (item 27018) •Nailer (item 27023) •Hammer (item 27017) available from •Pliers (item 27012) •Sandpapers – medium grain (240), www.model-space.co.uk very fine grain (1000) •Varnish 200cc pot (item 27621) •Brush to apply varnish

Ref: Description Amount Dimensions (mm) Material 1 False keel 1 Pref 4 Plywood 2 Standing mast rigging 2 Pref 4 Plywood 3 to 10 Frames 8 Pref 4 Plywood 11 Deck beam for the curve of the upper stern 1 Pref 4 Plywood 12 Deck 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 13 Pins 530 Pref Brass 14 Stem knightheads 2 Pref 4 Plywood 15 Cutwater knightheads 2 Pref 4 Plywood 16 Deck, bulwark and upper stern lining strakes 37 0.6x5x400 Ramin 17 First layer of hull lining 37 2x5x400 Ramin 18 Bulwarks 2 Pref 1.5 Plywood 19 Upper stern 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 20 Second hull lining 37 0.6x5x400 Mahogany 21 Rubbing strake 6 2x3x400 Applewood 22 Railing struts 58 3x3x14/17 Applewood 23 Deck stringers 3 4x3x400 Applewood 24 Stem 1 Pref 4 Lime 25 Keel 1 4x7x400 Lime 26 Stern post 1 Pref 4 Lime 27 Bow limber boards 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 28 Midships limber boards 2 Pref 1.5 Plywood 29 Stern limber boards 2 Pref 1.5 Plywood 30 Rudder half hinges 4 Pref Brass 31 Rudder 1 Pref 4 Lime 32 Helm 1 Pref Cast in metal 33 Companion side walls 2 Pref 1.5 Plywood 34 Companion aft wall 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 35 Companion fore wall 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 36 Companion roof 1 Pref 1.5 Plywood 37 Curved guides for the companion cover 2 Pref 1.5 Plywood 38 Straight guides for the companion cover 2 Pref 1.5 Plywood 39 Ship’s name 1 Pref Brass 40 Exterior guides and frames for the companion door 1 2x2x200 Applewood 41 Handle for the companion’s sliding roof 1 2x2x5 Applewood 42 Front strips for the cargo hatch 2 2x5x49 Mahogany 43 Side strips for the cargo hatch 2 2x5x27 Mahogany 44 Inside front strips for the cargo hatch 2 2x3x35 Mahogany 45 Inside side strips for the cargo hatch 2 2x3x23 Mahogany 46 Cargo hatch covers 3 2x9x35 Ramin 47 Base of the ammunition box and sliding cover 1 1x3x200 Mahogany 48 Companion rings 2 Diam 2 Brass 49 Mast tabernacles 2 Diam 8 Cast in metal 50 Cannon balls 16 Diam 3 Steel 51 Bowsprit masthead knightheads 2 Pref 1.5 Plywood 52 Bowsprit masthead columns 2 Pref Cast in metal 53 Bowsprit masthead lower cross-beam 1 2x5x25 Applewood 54 Bowsprit masthead upper cross-beam 1 3x3x28 Applewood 55 Eyebolts 48 10 Brass 56 Cargo hatch handles (rings) 6 Diam 3 Brass 57 Carronade ring guide 1 Pref Cast in metal 58 Carronade sleeper 1 Pref Wood 59 Carronade slide 1 Pref Wood 60 Carronade hinge 1 Pref Brass 61 Carronade firing quoin elevation 1 Pref Cast in metal 62 Carronade 1 Pref Brass 63 Brown thread for attaching carronade and sleeper 1 Diam 0.5x250 Cotton 64 Carronade trunnion 1 Diam 1x10 Brass 65 Two-hole blocks 11 5 Boxwood 66 Raw thead (a) 1 Diam 0.15x13000 Cotton 67 Raw thread (b) 1 Diam 0.25x16000 Cotton Ref: Description Amount Dimensions (mm) Material

68 Brown thread (c ) 1 Diam 0.5x7500 Cotton PARTS OF VIRGINIA: LIST 3 THE 69 Fore channels 2 Pref 1.5 Plywood 70 Aft channels 2 Pref 1.5 Plywood 71 Bitts for tying off the anchors 2 Pref Cast in metal 72 Foremast spanker sheet 1 Diam 1.5x100 Brass wire 73 Helmsman’s support 9 1x2x20 Applewood 74 Drainage pump 1 Pref Cast in metal 75 Drainage pump lever 1 Pref Cast in metal 76 Barrel stands 2 Pref 1.5 Board 77 Barrels 2 Pref Boxwood 78 Chimney 1 Pref Cast in metal 79 Hawses 2 2x5x30 Applewood 80 Mainmast spanker gaff 1 Diam 5x140 Applewood 81 Foremast spanker gaff 1 Diam 5x110 Applewood 82 Gaff cheeks 3 Pref Cast in metal 83 Anchors 2 Pref Cast in metal 84 Anchor stocks 2 Pref Cast in metal 85 Anchor rings 2 Diam 3 Brass 86 Anchor drop bolts 4 Diam 1x20 Brass 87 Stacking thread 1 Diam 0.25x5500 Steel 88 Clump blocks 24 Diam 5 Boxwood 89 Bowsprit 1 Diam 6x150 Applewood 90 Foremast 1 Diam 8x325 Applewood 91 Mainmast 1 Diam 8x335 Applewood 92 Boom support ring 1 Diam 8 Cast in metal 93 Mainmast hanks 21 Diam 10 Brass 94 Lower mainmast cap 1 Pref Cast in metal 95 Mainmast upper mast 1 Diam 6x185 Applewood 96 Upper mainmast cap 1 Pref Cast in metal 97 Boom 1 Diam 5x220 Applewood 98 Three-hole pulleys 4 5 Boxwood 99 Trucks 20 Pref Black glass 100 Mainmast boom sail 1 Pref Cotton 101 Gaff topsail 1 Pref Cotton 102 Topmast cringles 5 Diam 6 Brass 103 Foremast peak 1 Pref Cast in metal 104 Foremast boom sail 1 Pref Cotton 105 sail 1 Pref Cotton 106 Flag 1 Pref Adhesive cloth 107 Top mast truck 1 Pref Boxwood 108 Anchor cables 2 Diam 0.5x500 Cotton 109 Pulleys 38 4 Boxwood

Cotton thread Part No diam 0.5mm 63, 68 Cotton thread

diam 0.15mm

66 Cotton thread

diam 0.25mm

67 Cotton thread THE VIRGINIA 1 THE VIRGINIA: STEP BY STEP BY STEP

Check that all the necessary ship parts are present and that you have all the necessary paints, varnishes and glues and the ! tools that you need to build the model. Follow the steps CAREFULLY.

False keel and frames 1 2 1 2

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8 4 3 7 6 5

Fit the standing mast rigging 2 to the false keel 1. Insert the frames (3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 and 9) into the corresponding slots in 1the false keel 1, ensuring that each is perpendicular, and making a 90º angle with the keel. They should be fitted evenly, leaving them flush with the false keel. Do not glue them yet. 2 Fitting the upper stern curve beam

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Remove excess wood (the area above the broken red line) from the top edge of the frame 10 so that it is flush with the 2spine of the keel. Fitting the upper stern curve beam, continued 3 2 THE VIRGINIA: STEP BY

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11 10

11 10

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3Glue the boom 11 into place. Once the glue has dried, use a half-round file to create the contours shown in the photographs. 4 Fitting the stern frames 11

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8 11

4Fit and glue the frame 10 into the last slot in the false keel. This frame must be glued in place. Assembling the deck 5 3 THE VIRGINIA: STEP BY 12

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The deck 12 must be pinned onto the spine of the false keel in such a way that it is possible to align them correctly before gluing them into place. In 5order to ensure that the deck is perfectly aligned with the frames, begin with the master frame (the widest one), which must be centred, forming an angle of 90° to the false keel. Pin this frame using the pins 13. In the same way, pin the deck to the spine of the remaining frames. Glue the frames, using a brush, to the false keel and the deck, using a 30 per cent mixture of glue and water. When the glue is completely dry, round off the exterior profiles so that they form a continuous curve that will allow you to glue and pin the lining strakes into place. Use a rough, half-round file and fine-grained sandpaper to smooth off. With the help of a strip of lining material 17 placed at different heights, make sure that the desired contour of the hull is retained.

6 Fitting the knightheads into place

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Glue the stem knightheads 14 and the cutwater knightheads 15 to the false keel. When the glue is dry, file them down, rounding off the edges of the 6knightheads. Lining the deck 7 4 THE VIRGINIA: STEP BY

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Glue the strips 16 to the deck. Fit the first strip lengthways in line with the centre of the keel. Working from this centre point, continue to line both 7 sides of the deck until it is completely covered. Once the deck has been lined, use a pencil to simulate the planking. Make sure the two holes for the masts are not covered. 8 Lining the hull 17

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Line the hull using the strips 17. Start below the deck, leaving a gap of 5mm and working down. This gap will be filled later by gluing in the bulwarks. 8 Dampen the strips beforehand, so that they can be bent to form the curve around the bow. Apply glue to the edges of each frame, against which each strip 17 will be fitted. It is recommended that only the part of each frame covered by the strip be glued. The strip will also be held in place by the pins 13. The pins must not be driven all the way home; leave approximately 3mm sticking out. We recommend that you line the hull by alternating a strip on one side with a strip on the other, so that after you have attached a strip to the port side attach its equivalent to the starboard side. The small gaps that are left between the strips must be filled with triangular-shaped pieces known as ‘wedges’.