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MARCO POLO Decorate Their Hair – a Milliner Rules Even Quite Sexy → P yz A hat to suit every head yz Checked nylons For men, it could be Sherlock Holmes’ They really exist: tights with tartan The best deerstalker cap; for ladies, definitely patterns – at The Royal Mile. The the mere wisp of a fascinator to square check powder pink model is MARCO POLO decorate their hair – a milliner rules even quite sexy → p. 63 over her realm in the Fabhatrix in Insider Tips the heart of the Old Town → p. 62 yz Feel at home You can rent a holiday flat behind Our top 15 Insider Tips yz The local bus to the the thick walls on Candlemaker Row – Da Vinci Code in the midst of the hustle and bustle Bus lines 15 and 62 will take you in of the Old Town near Greyfriars’ comfort, in half an hour, to the leg- Cemetery with its tales of vanishing endary, exquisite Rosslyn Chapel to corpses → p. 78 the south of the city centre. Do you think you will be able to find the yz Forward looking Holy Grail that some people think is The large clock on the tower next to hidden inside its walls? You can buy Waverley Station is two minutes fast expert literature at the Chapel that so that passengers won’t miss their will do away with many of the myths train – the only exception is on New (photo left) → p. 81 Year’s Eve → p. 44 yz Let your Celtic hair down yz Pandas and penguins yz Celebrate in Scottish style yz Seaweed brew At the Beltane Fire Festival held on Beside the daily penguin parade in The people of Edinburgh have story- You will be able to try a drink you the last day of April, more than Edinburgh Zoo (photo right), there’s telling and music in their blood. The have definitely never had before 12,000 go on a pagan, Celtic spree one more highlight: giant pandas Scottish-Gaelic culture is joyfully at the David Bann vegetarian res- that doesn’t end until May. A really → p. 94 celebrated at Easter at the TradFest taurant: beer made of seaweed spectacular event on Calton Hill → p. 96 → p. 55 → p. 96 yz Cryptic crypt Non-stop horror films, pole dancing, yz Bird’s eye view cosy corners and “candlelight burg- Fantastic view at a dizzying height ers” in the gloomy Banshee Labyrinth over the Royal Mile in the safe ha- under a bridge in the Old Town ven of the church from the roof of → p. 67 St Giles Cathedral → p. 39 yz Breathtaking panorama yz From bean to bar You will get the best photo of the If you want to find out why choco- castle from St Cuthbert’s Cemetery late is healthy, contact the Chocolate at the foot of the hill. It is particu- Tree well in advance to attend one of larly beautiful in winter when leaves its events where you can learn every- do not block your view → p. 45 thing about the production and en- joyment of chocolate → p. 52 yz Dessert with a steely soft drink yz William Turner likes it Irn-Bru, the orange-coloured Scottish gloomy pick-me-up and national soft drink The National Gallery only exhibits is the basis of one of the desserts some of the artist’s watercolours in served in the Hotel du Vin Bistro the weak January light to prevent → p. 55 them from fading → p. 45 ONLY IN EDINBURGH BEST OF... Unique experiences The castle on the volcano GREAT PLACES FOR FREE Ther most impressive aspect of Edinburgh Castle and the volcanic rock it is built on, is the silhouette the Discover new places and save money two merge to form. Things are more intimate inside the castle: crown jewels, the Stone of Destiny and a simple chapel are true gems. Three-hour declaration of love to the city The views are breathtaking! → p. 30 Your will have certainly fallen in love with Edinburgh after this free tour of the metropolis. The enthusiastic guides are devoted to their city and know Memento mori absolutely everything about haunted houses and spitting, inventions and Ther gloomy Greyfriars’ Cemetery in the striving for independence, about music making, etc, etc, etc. … → p. 36 heart of the Old Town is like a history book of the city carved in stone. A lot of people Secret Festival favourite come here because they believe the place rOriginally, the Festival Fringe was just an offshoot of the Edinburgh is haunted. The corpse thieves Burke and Hare International Festival. But, for some years now, visitors have not only dug up bodies buried here for an anatomy been attracted to the many comedy and theatre performances just professor → p. 32 because they’re free (photo) → p. 22 Fiddles in the bar First the sheep and then the kilt Sandyr Bell’s is a pub with a resounding reputation. There is rDo you want to find out how a kilt is made? The Tartan Weaving Mill nothing more typically Scottish than listening to folk musicians at a & Exhibition will provide you with all the answers → p. 36 jam session with a glass of beer in your hand → p. 72 Scotland in session Eating in the heart of the city Ther Scottish Parliament looks like an upturned ship but this visionary Your will feel like you are in a catacomb in the vaults of the The Grain IN ONLY construction fits perfectly into the tightly-knit Old Town. You can satisfy Store restaurant. Tuck into the unpretentious food served by candlelight your curiosity about the cryptic architecture on a free tour → p. 38 in what was once a warehouse → p. 56 Just a department store? Edinburgh’s famous writers FOR FREE rBurns, Scott and Stevenson are shining stars in the Scottish literature Jennersr , from 1838, does not try to be modern. Here a small escalator, firmament. The memorabilia in the small Writers’ Museum will give there a narrow, winding staircase. You can never be quite sure which of you an idea of the time they spent in Edinburgh → p. 39 the 100 departments on the six floors you will find yourself in – but Jenners sells absolutely everything (photo) → p. 61 Modern art from Scotland’s capital rThe Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art Two (former- Farmer’s market with a view of the castle ly Dean Gallery) pays homage to Edinburgh’s greatest Ther best market in the country is quite simply named Farmer’s Market. artist – Eduardo Paolozzi: sculptor, Surrealist, Pop- Sixty farmers and producers offer their exquisite, out of the ordinary, Artist → p. 48 produce for sale on Saturday: wild boar, organic beer, ostrich and water-buffalo meat, lobster, honey, chutneys … → p. 61 Jazz for free Ther Jazz Bar swings more than any other club in Bar on the bridge town. From Tuesday to Saturday evening, free, un- Ther North Bridge Brasserie has established itself in the foyer of the plugged sessions go along with the first beer of the Scotsman newspaper. Where drinking used to inspire writers, the love- day at the bar’s “Teatime Acoustics” events → p. 72 ly bar now whets one’s appetite for Edinburgh: pure grandezza → p. 79 Dots in guidebook refer to “Best of…” tips 9 r r r r DISCOVERY TOURS Cities have many faces. If you want to get behind the scenes to explore their unique charm and head off the beaten track or find your way to green oases, EDINBURGH AT A GLANCE handpicked restaurants or the best local activities, then these tailored Discovery A Tours are just the right thing. Choose the best route for the day and follow in the START: Valvona & Crolla Caff è Bar 1 day footsteps of the MARCO POLO authors – well-prepared to navigate your way to END: 1 Royal Oak Walking time all the many highlights that await you along the tour. 19 (without stops) Distance: B 3 hours 9.6 km/6 miles COSTS: admission, food and snacks incl. whisky purchase £ 40–50 WHAT TO PACK: A hip flask to fill up (for those who like whisky) Crolla → p. 52 located in the New Town surrounded by Georgian and Neo-classical architecture. IMPORTANT TIPS: The Valvona & Crolla Caffè Bar opens at 8:30am G Turn to the south, with Calton Hill→ p. 41 Welcome to Edinburgh’s two “Old Towns” – a World Heritage Site. Explore both on your left hand side. Walk along Leith Walk and at the mundane and medieval faces of the city on a stroll through the New and Old York Place, head west to the National Portrait Gal- National Portrait Towns. Go shopping en route and discover what the city has to offer at night. lery → p. 46. Behind the neo-Gothic2 façade you will see Gallery2 a “who’s who” of historical and contemporary Scottish C Start your tour with a cappuccino and an Ital- VIPs captured in paintings, photographs and even vid- Valvona & Crolla ian-style breakfast in the hip Italian café Valvona & eos. 1 1 82 Photo: Calton Hill – view of Dugald Stewart Monument and Princes Street 83.
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