a publication of ADVENTURE CYCLING ASSOCIATION

THE FUTURE

IS ELECTRIC10

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GLOSSARY THE FUTURE IS ELECTRIC

The era of reluctance is over, THERE WILL BE A QUIZ We neglected to include a eBikes are here to stay reminder link to our Bike Touring Glossary in last month’s Cyclists Travel Guide — but this ➺While I was never among those who counted eBikes handy reference is online 24/7 at as “cheating” or “not really cycling,” I was also far from adventurecycling.org/glossary. an evangelist. I’d ridden a few early models and they were … fine. Fun even, but they didn’t move me in the figurative way that purely human-powered bikes could. But they did move, so I could see that perhaps with a different life, different commute, different topography, BECOMING BIKEPACKERS sure, maybe. But not for me, not now. THE BEER TRAIL TO Bear with me for a moment here while I talk about ASHEVILLE cars. My unremarkable suburban childhood block was considerably This North Carolina mountain changed around the time I hit my teen years when a young couple biking mecca packs great moved in across the street. Mr. Steve was a car enthusiast, and in trails, great beer, and plenty possession of a few classics that set my teenage pulse racing. A canary to offer a bikepacker learning yellow 911 with ear-splitting exhaust? A race-prepped BMW? An MG the ropes. Read about Mike with a Mazda engine shoehorned in the bay? Be still, my beating heart. Bezemek’s ride in the region So imagine my surprise one day not long after I got a driver’s license of at adventurecycling.org/ my own when Mr. Steve was lamenting the low price of gas. “Cars are becomingbikepackers. fun toys, but as transportation they’re insane. Until gas is prohibitively expensive, people will never understand that,” is more or less what he said. My still-unformed brain nearly exploded (because of confusion, not some deeper understanding). Some 20-plus years later, as personal electric transportation reaches the mainstream, I think about my former neighbor’s prescience almost daily. Up until even a few years ago, I was thinking about it all wrong: eBikes aren’t destined to be toys, they’re tools. And they could change the whole damn world. This is a bike travel magazine, and in the following pages you’ll read about how eBikes are changing just that — electrified versions of a well- loved vehicle for exploration and fitness and continued access for riders who enter their golden years and leave their golden legs behind. Just avoid the mistake I made by thinking of eBikes as simply electrified bicycles. Bicycles are toys and tools, machines of freedom and equality that change lives — they’ve sure changed mine. But eBikes can be something more, they’re time machines, and they’re aimed straight at a better tomorrow. COVID-19 UPDATES We can’t wait to delete this reminder from our list of online Alex Strickland Editor-in-Chief, Adventure Cyclist resources! But until that time, [email protected] visit adventurecycling.org/covid- 19 for the latest impacts of the coronavirus pandemic on bike travel and Adventure Cycling.

03 contents VOLUME 48 ∞ NUMBER 3 ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG

RIDING HIGH A father-daughter journey from Lake Michigan to Key West, on high wheels. by Amy Oleynik 18

OUR COVER: Beth Nobles and Stephanie BACK IN THE SADDLE 10 DEPARTMENTS LETTERS COLUMNS Puello ride Tern Vektron and Two senior riders rediscover 08 Waypoints 03 LETTER from the 34 Road Test HSD eBikes along Alameda Editor Dan Meyer Parkway in the iconic Red their love of touring on eBikes. 25 Annual Impact Report Specialized Turbo Rocks Park west of Denver, by Keith Wetzel 38 Geared Up 05 LETTERS from our Colorado. Readers Como 3.0 Photo by Natalie Starr. and Suzanne Painter 42 Life Member Profile 06 LETTER from the 44 Classifieds/Marketplace Adventure Cyclist is Director America’s only magazine MOTORING ALONG 16 50 Companions Wanted dedicated to bicycle travel. 51 Open Road Gallery It is published nine times After knocking out a lifetime’s each year by Adventure worth of bike tours, this couple Cycling Association, a nonprofit organization for is at it again — on eBikes. SPECIALIZED TURBO COMO 3.0 recreational cyclists. Individual by Alex Strickland membership costs $45 yearly A major-brand eBike to U.S. addresses and includes made for cruising. a subscription to Adventure $3,250 Cyclist and discounts on ELECTRIC DIRT 40 Adventure Cycling maps. Public lands are opening For more information, visit 34 adventurecycling.org or call their gates to eBikes, creating 800.755.2453. opportunities for electrified

Adventure Cyclist exploration off-road. accepts stories, articles, by Dan D’Ambrosio and photographs for publication. Learn more at adventurecycling.org/submit.

04 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 Letters from our Readers

RE: CTG

BACK TO BASICS Evans. And in the course of my career, broke completely, limiting me to coasting A thought on what might be a helpful I have also rebuilt and given away quite only. That was the end of my trip; a kindly article for tourists and wannabes. a few others (the issue here, as some stranger gave me a ride to Lynchburg What are the five or 10 most Frenchman put it, is that “you’re always from whence I took the train back home. common mechanical problems that the responsible for those you have tamed,” At this point I have to hand it to Phil — tourist faces, and what are the quickest and if the recipient rides it to the ground they really stand behind their products. and easiest solutions? Anything basic within a couple of years and then expects Even though I was not the original owner, and straightforward would help. I you to restore it again ... enough said). for $80 they rebuilt that hub, restoring ride with lots of PhDs, MDs, lawyers, Now to the main course of my story. the original performance. etc., and most could not make heads My first try at wheel building landed There remained one more glitch: or tails of the technical stuff in your me on the doorstep of a bike shop rather shortish distance from the bottom bike reviews: stacks, reaches, drops, somewhere in Massachusetts, on my bracket to the front wheel, resulting in brackets, ratios — nuclear sub manuals return trip from the Cape, after a couple my toes hitting the fender and the wheel might be easier. I really enjoy those of spokes in the left side of my newly while maneuvering at a slow speed. There essays, but a different approach for built wheel had busted. I bought 18 happened to sit a pair of pedal extenders helping non-gearheads would be useful. spokes, borrowed the tools, and rebuilt it. in my junk box, which I installed, I was talking to my wife yesterday Sometime after that, on a whim, I bought reducing the problem significantly — and about the idea. She rides a lot with a used Phil Wood rear hub on eBay for never mind the Q-factor! friends, but none of them has much cheap, which had a 145mm width. And Meet my mongrel of a bike. This of an idea of basic mechanics. How to then it all came together when I saw an was after a test climb of Platte Clove change a tire? I asked. Well, take the ad on local Craigslist: someone was selling Rd and Glade Hill Rd in the Catskills wheel off, not realizing that you first a Dean Ti touring frame with a 145mm (nothing really to brag about, as its put it in the smallest ring and cassette, rear dropout. Bingo! Never mind that the lowest gear ratio at the time was 20T then release the brakes, etc. guy was quite a bit shorter than myself. front to 40T rear). I realize the difficulties now with the Mikhail Bronstein | Hackensack, complexity of the modern bike, but it New Jersey might be possible to do, accompanied by photos or line drawings. I know I LESS GUIDE, MORE TRAVEL would find it useful. I think the March cover is quite Joe Super | Morgantown, West Virginia misleading: “Cyclists Travel Guide.” I expected articles on travel in parts of the Ed. note: There are some amazing resources world and how it is affected by COVID-19. along these lines on adventurecycling.org, The faint placard in the lower left should but it might be time for a few to work their have been featured prominently. way into print. John Dunkelberger | Urbana, Illinois For the maiden voyage, I picked the USED BIKE GUIDE Blue Ridge Parkway. A few days into it, Ed. note: John has a point — we’ve called In 2000, I rode over Independence my chain started to skip occasionally, our annual tech dive the “CTG” for some 15 Pass on an undersized green Nishiki which really had me stumped. I wound years, but we’re not sure it’s a very accurate (originally bought on a garage sale for up in a bike shop in Roanoke, Virginia, name anymore. Food for thought! $40 but upgraded to a triple and 8-speed where the mechanic troubleshot it down CONTINUED ON PAGE 48 brifters). Two years later I rode it again, to the innards of that Phil hub! (To me, this time on an oversized black Peugeot the hub had seemed beyond suspicion: it Your letters are welcome. We may edit letters for (another garage sale, $95 if I remember was a Phil, after all. But even a Phil does length and clarity. If you do not want your comments right). The year after that it was a blue- wear down, and who knows what mileage to be printed in Adventure Cyclist, please state so clearly. Include your name and address with your and-white Centurion (yes, you guessed that hub had before I bought it.) The correspondence. Email your comments, questions, or it: garage sale, $20 and just the right size mechanic overhauled the hub and on the letters to [email protected] or mail to Editor, for me) that took me to the top of Mt. next stretch the spring holding the pawls Adventure Cyclist, P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807.

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 05 Letter from the Director

THE WELCOME WAGON The world comes to you at Adventure Cycling

Scott and April opening the doors to Adventure Cycling HQ ... hopefully a dry run for welcoming visiting cyclists in 2021!

This month’s Letter from the Director is My first summer, a young couple police. The thief must have realized written by our Assistant Development rolled up on a heavily loaded tandem. the futility of hiding a tandem bike Director April Cypher. April has spent the They were, for lack of a better word, in rural Tajikistan because the next last five years inspiring us with stories of weatherworn. They had about two morning the bike was lying next to the DANIEL MRGAN DANIEL transformation and impact in service to months of riding left before reaching tent. That, they said, was the first and our community building and fundraising New York City where they would then only time something was stolen. efforts. She’ll be leaving soon to take fly home to England, ending their I met them as the bittersweetness the next steps in her writing career, and three-year, round-the-world trip. As of their trip’s end was taking hold. It’s a I’ve asked her to share what this time at I took their photo, they told me who privilege to experience these moments Adventure Cycling has meant to her. would meet them at the airport and with strangers, to witness transitions –Scott Pankratz, Executive Director which family members would be and hear stories because these are the waiting at home. Their voices pitched adventures of a lifetime. ➺If you’re lucky enough to work at with joy as they talked about the Before I found Adventure Cycling, Adventure Cycling’s headquarters in weddings and birthdays they would I knew a handful of people who loved Missoula, the world comes to you. attend after missing so many while on strapping tents to bikes and camping Over a thousand cyclists stop in the road. And in the same breath, they in the woods. Not so anymore. every summer (with an exception for questioned how they would transition Welcoming cyclists into a building this past summer), and as staff, we get back to lives of schedules and work. whose purpose is to celebrate people to welcome them with ice cream and “Did you ever have anything who love strapping tents to bikes and Polaroid photos for the wall. Every year, stolen?” I asked, which was my way camping in the woods (or whatever we bet on when the first cyclist of the of asking if the world was safe. They version bicycle travel takes for you) season will arrive. And in prime cycling smiled at each other. One morning, was a highlight of my job. It’s a special months, every staff member takes a in a village in Tajikistan, the husband thing to be part of this community. day and acts as the official greeter. This crawled out of the tent and, standing Hearing your stories has been a joy. means making sure visitors sign the in the cool morning air, realized I’m thankful to have been part of your guest book and giving them ice cream something wasn’t right. “Someone adventures for nearly six years. and a tour of building, but it’s also a stole our bike,” he said to his wife, who chance to see the variety people who was still nestled in the tent. After the Thank you, April! We wish you tailwinds travel by bike and to hear their stories. initial shock wore off, they went to the and joy as you pursue your dreams.

06 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 EDITOR-IN-CHIEF ALEX STRICKLAND DEPUTY EDITOR DAN MEYER LEAD DESIGNER ALLY MABRY CONTRIBUTING WRITERS WILLIE WEIR PATRICK O’GRADY DAN D’AMBROSIO CONFLUENCE, PA JUNE SIPLE ELLEE THALHEIMER APRIL CYPHER Your doorway to the Great Allegheny Passage GAGE POORE COPY EDITOR PHYLLIS PICKLESIMER ART DIRECTOR EMERITUS GREG SIPLE ADVERTISING DIRECTOR RICK BRUNER

AREAS OF FOCUS Provide the premier tools and inspiration for people to travel by bicycle. Expand and integrate bike travel networks for North America. Create the best possible conditions for bicycle travel.

MISSION HOW TO REACH US Adventure Cycling Association memberships@ inspires, empowers, and connects adventurecycling.org people to travel by bicycle. 406.721.1776

HEADQUARTERS SUBSCRIPTION ADDRESS Adventure Cycling Association Adventure Cycling Association 150 E. Pine St. P.O. Box 8308 Missoula, MT 59802 Missoula, MT 59807

Photo © paul g Wiegman www.visitconfluence.info STAFF EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR SCOTT PANKRATZ CHIEF OPERATIONS OFFICER SHEILA SNYDER, CPA MEMBERSHIP JOE BAKER EVA DUNN-FROEBIG BRIAN BONHAM KATE WHITTLE DEVELOPMENT JACKIE SLOVAK APRIL CYPHER HAYDIN GROTZ EMMA WIMMER MARKETING & COMMUNICATIONS TERI MALOUGHNEY ALEX STRICKLAND DAN MEYER LEVI BOUGHN ALLY MABRY DANIEL MRGAN JESSICA ZEPHYRS INFORMATION TECHNOLOGY JOHN SIEBER RICHARD DARNE DAVID BARTH GAGE POORE TOURS MIKE LESSARD REBEKAH ZOOK MELINDA BALCHAN ROUTES JAMIE ROBERTSON CARLA MAJERNIK NATHAN TAYLOR AMY WALLY ADVOCACY SAARA SNOW MELISSA MOSER CYCLOSOURCE MAX SIEBERT MAXTON CAPLANIDES ADMINISTRATION GEOFF MCMILLION JAKE FLAHERTY OFFICE MANAGER/HR MANAGER BETH PETERSEN ��������� BOARD OF DIRECTORS PRESIDENT JOYCE CASEY ����������������� VICE PRESIDENT JENNY PARK SECRETARY MARIA ELENA PRICE TREASURER NOEL KEGEL ����������� � BOARD MEMBERS STEVEN SETO GEORGE MENDES ELIZABETH KIKER RICH TAUER Your cheeks may hurt from smiling, but not your wrists, back or saddle area. Enjoy every mile on this zippy ride. Learn more at

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 07 Waypoints

RIVAL IOWA RIDES Call for Ambassadors ANNOUNCE ROUTES ADVENTURE CYCLING NEEDS YOUR HELP WITH ITS NEW SHORT TRIPS INITIATIVE

After last year’s cancellations, competing cross-Iowa bike tours Iowa’s Ride and the Register’s Annual Great Bicycle Ride Across

DENNIS COELLODENNIS Iowa (RAGBRAI) have announced their respective routes for 2021. RAGBRAI will run eastward July 25–31, while Iowa’s Ride will go westward July 18–24. The first-ever Iowa’s Ride will start in Dubuque and pass through Monticello, Vinton, ➺ Not all of us have the luxury of going on supporting Ambassadors who can lead Eldora, Clarion, Emmetsburg, and on a months-long cross-country bike trip, rides and inspire locals to try bicycle travel Sheldon before ending in Rock nor do some of us want to. But most of us in eight metro areas in 2021. Adventure Rapids for a total of 430 miles. do have the time and resources to go on a Cycling will also develop short routes in the The 48th RAGBRAI will kick weekend bicycle adventure. That’s exactly eight metro areas of Boston, Atlanta, Austin, KARLA ROBLES off in Le Mars and go for 426 why Adventure Cycling Association is Minneapolis, Seattle, San Francisco, Los miles through Sac City, Fort launching the Short Trips Initiative — to Angeles, and Washington, DC. Additional Dodge, Iowa Falls, Waterloo, make bicycle travel more accessible by cities will be added in the near future. Anamosa, and DeWitt before developing one- to three-night routes Are you interested in getting involved riders dip their tires in the Mississippi River in Clinton. accessible from urban hubs with a in the Short Trips Initiative? Please fill Registration is open for network of supportive Ambassadors. out the survey to express your interest, both events at ragbrai.com/ Adventure Cycling will make resources especially if you live in or near one of the registration and iowasride.com/ available to volunteer Ambassadors no eight metro areas of focus. registration. matter where they live, but the focus will be surveymonkey.com/r/3XWHCY7

08 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 edited by Dan Meyer

Yes, You! LAEL WILCOX LAUNCHES BIKEPACKING CHALLENGE FOR WOMXN

➺ On a mission to get more along the Colorado portion of the womxn riding, bikepacker and Great Divide Mountain Bike Route. ultra-endurance bike racer Lael Between now and the challenge’s Wilcox’s latest initiative, Yes, You!, start on August 1, Yes, You! will launch looks to break down barriers for a series of resources to help prepare underrepresented groups, including the riders for their big adventure. femme, transgender, nonbinary, Black, From virtual talks on how to pack your indigenous, and people of color. The bike to a scholarship fund supporting project will reach its pinnacle this riders in need of assistance, Yes, You! summer when 100 riders — from is designed to break down the barrier experts to beginners — embark on a for womxn looking to take on their first weeklong, self-supported bikepacking bikepacking journey. RUGILE KALADYTERUGILE trip through the Rocky Mountains rapha.cc/stories/yes-you Legislative Roundup TWO NEW HOUSE BILLS ENCOURAGE MORE CYCLING WITH TAX CREDITS

➺ Motorized assist — and I don’t 1019) would offer a refundable tax Introduced in January by Rep. mean hitching a ride — is still a credit of 30 percent of the cost of a Blumenauer, the Bicycle Commuter relatively new concept in long- new eBike. The credit maxes out at Act of 2021 (H.R. 384) would offer a tax distance bike travel, but eBikes for $1,500 and applies to eBikes that cost credit of up to 30 percent of the current everyday transportation is already less than $8,000. The bill is sponsored parking benefit available to those who an established and growing category. by representatives Jimmy Panetta commute by motor vehicle, or about And a new bill in Congress would (D-Calif.) and Earl Blumenauer $81 a month. According to the bill, bike- encourage even more people to keep (D-Ore.) and is supported by People share expenses would be eligible under their cars in the garage in favor of for Bikes, the League of American the benefit, to include eBikes. electrified pedaling. Bicyclists, the California Bicycle Want these bills to become law? Introduced to the U.S. House Coalition, and others. Write, email, or call your representatives on February 9, the Electric Bicycle If you pedal your bike to work, in Congress. You can follow the bills’ Incentive Kickstart for the another new bill would help you save progress at congress.gov/bill. Environment (E-BIKE) Act (H.R. a little money on your commute.

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 09 1978 2019

HOW EBIKES HELPED TWO SENIORS REDISCOVER THEIR OF TOURING

Story + Photos: Keith Wetzel + Suzanne Painter 1988 2015

Illustration by Levi Boughn 2000

10 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 1978 2019

HOW EBIKES HELPED TWO SENIORS REDISCOVER THEIR OF TOURING

Story + Photos: Keith Wetzel + Suzanne Painter 1988 2015

Illustration by Levi Boughn 2000

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 11 A photo op along BC-6 in British Columbia, Canada, on the Selkirk Loop.

s young public school teachers in 1978, we bicycled from central Oregon to Missoula where we joined eight other cyclists for an Adventure Cycling (then Bikecentennial) tour that took us from Missoula to Banff and Jasper, Alberta, and down through interior British Columbia and to White Rock Taking a break near Monument, Oregon, during a tour of the Old West Scenic Bikeway. where we caught a ferry to Victoria. It was more than 1,500 miles of self-supported riding through incomparable scenery, accomplished with the strength and enthusiasm of youth. SHORTER DAYS, LIGHTER LOADS FOR OLDER BODIES Forty years later, riding our e-assist recumbent On our previous trip, our diaries show we had some 100- bicycles, we finished two wonderful tours in 2019 and mile days in BC, and we were carrying our camping and are ready for more. We rode back into BC for the Selkirk cooking gear. Although we were trail-hardened at that Loop and later completed the Old West Scenic Bikeway point, we were sometimes exhausted and always very in central Oregon. What’s different touring on recumbent hungry at the end of the day. Back then, we didn’t give eBikes as senior citizens compared to doing it 40 years a second thought to pushing ourselves on steep grades ago on 10-speed road bikes? and never worried about our hearts performing their We joked to friends that our biggest decision for the assigned functions. night was not where to pitch our tent or keep our food On our recent trips, we didn’t carry the camping gear safe from bears. It was whether we would have enough and we didn’t push ourselves as hard, even with the electrical outlets to charge our bike batteries, iPhones, electric assist. Yet we still tackled mountain summits iPads, smart watches, headlights, taillights, and cameras! and felt as much burn as we wanted to. We typically We also told friends that we could no longer find the stopped riding between 2:00 pm and 3:00 pm, allowing $1.99 breakfast specials that had once been our staples, time for rest or exploration before dinner. We had and we used email to keep in touch rather than calling at a less to prove and more time to enjoy. We spent more local post office for our mail at “general delivery.” time checking out local areas of interest and talking to The truth is that our approach to touring has changed people. In Winlaw, BC, we enjoyed open mic night at in light of our aging bodies and modern technology, the local restaurant, and near New Denver we spent an but the rewards are as plentiful as ever. We don’t push hour at the Japanese internment camp memorial. We ourselves as hard, we do more planning in advance, and, also visited the Glass House near Boswell, BC. It’s built most significantly, we made the transition to eBikes. of embalming fluid bottles. You can’t make this up.

12 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 PLANNING TO NAKUSP & REVELSTOKE Retallack TO MEADOW CREEK & DUNCAN DAM In our younger days, there were more Rosebery New Denver unknowns. We had road maps, but at Silverton Kaslo that time there were often no bicycle VALHALLA Mirror Lake PROVINCIAL maps for our route, so there was a PARK KOKANEE GLACIER sense of adventure in that we wouldn’t PROVINCIAL Slocan PARK Riondel Ainsworth necessarily know each morning where Hot Springs Crawford Bay we would find camping or food during Appledale Kootenay Bay Balfour Winlaw Gray Creek the day. Being outdoors every night Proctor

Harrop K Passmore O immerses you in nature in a way that is WEST ARM O

Slocan Park T PROVINCIAL E

PARK N interrupted with indoor stays. However, A

Y Nelson Boswell staying indoors is more practical P U

R

Castlegar S L C for us now. We need the electric A E K E L E Kuskonook L TO CHRISTINA Ymir L outlets to charge, and we appreciate 95 Mi / 153 Km K LAKE I R Moyie Genelle Sirdar the comfortable beds, the private K CRESTON TO VALLEY M CRANBROOK WILDLIFE & KIMBERLEY Salmo MANAGEMENT Wynndel O bathrooms, a comfortable place to cook, AREA U Kitchener Trail  N dine, and read, and the wifi connections T Fruitvale Creston Rossland Montrose A Erickson I available everywhere. Yahk N

S Paterson Waneta Nelway BRITISH COLUMBIA Rykerts Kingsgate

Boundary Metaline IDAHO Porthill 50 Mi / 80 Km Eastport MONTANA We still prefer low-traffic roads in Frontier WASHINGTON M (Border Crossing)

O less-populated rural areas but without Northport Good Grief U PRIEST Metaline Falls N Copeland camping gear, so we didn’t want to take Metaline  T LAKE A

I the chance that we might end up in a S N STATE N Ione I Moyie Springs primitive “camp” at the end of the day. A FOREST T Tiger R N We obtained maps to both the Selkirk E A Bonners U K N A Ferry O L Deep C Nordman G Loop and the Old West route from the Creek A M

E T B

Colville S Naples I E state tourist agencies and read some I N R E P T information from bicyclists who had Elmira Coolin Troy

done these tours earlier. Then we made M K To O R 80 Mi / 129 Km Libby I U reservations at Airbnbs or motels. K 112 Mi / 180 Km N Kootenai T L Cusick A E I As we rode, we adjusted the amount S Usk Sandpoint Ponderay N S Chewelah E. Hope of assist that we used. The Selkirk Priest Dover Hope Newport Oldtown River Loop had several variations. The route Sagle LLE EI R Clark Fork O D we selected was about 420 miles, and N Diamond E Lake P

E

we averaged between 30 and 55 miles a Blanchard 60 Mi / 98 Km K

A L Bayview day depending on our plan for lodging. Noxon Spirit Lake FARRAGUT Deer Park STATE PARK We followed the Main Selkirk Loop Athol from Sandpoint, Idaho, to Belfour, BC, Hayden Lake Post Falls SPOKANE, WA and then the Super Side Trip from SPOKANE Int’L Airport Coeur d'Alene Belfour to Nelson, BC, and returning 90 MAP: COURTESY WACANID COURTESY MAP: on the main loop from Nelson back 90 to Sandpoint. Much of the route was Jo N hn Day k Ri To Blue Mountain r ver along the Kootenay Lake, including a o Century Bikeway F

e l 395 d d   i ferry ride across it. There was one very M

   (BLM) No water steep climb (thank you, e-assist) but it (BLM) No water  402 r was short. 19 ive  y R 395 Da Mi (3 miles) ohn dd No drinking water available miles J le F 30-70. Bring water lter and/or o Our second tour was the Old West ­ r k carry extra water. J Full o h Services 402 n 20 D a route in Oregon. It required a bit more y  R   iv e No water planning for lodging and food than 19 r (USFS) did the Selkirk Loop. Our longest day 20    

 7 was 70 miles into Long Creek, and we    395 (USFS) No water T  H 26 arrived at our motel with 30 minutes  19    (USFS) No water €  to spare before the food truck and      !    restaurant closed. This route had more 26 Bike-friendly hostels are available at Minimal Dayville Presbyterian Church: 26    Shoulder (541-987-2621), and north of Mt. climbs, and we were again very pleased Vernon (Bike Inn: 541-620-1819)    that we could dial in some electric   26  ‚ J  Full ohn iver Day  Services Day R River ohn Full 26 J assistance as needed. It was useful not Services  only for climbs, but also for days when                J (Overnight bikeway o the winds came up. h parking available- n

check in with ranger) D a y www.RideOregonRide.com R 395 i v

e OREGON TRAVEL COURTESY MAP: r

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 13 Scenic roadside views of the Kootenay River along the cross-border Selkirk Loop. TRANSITIONING TO EBIKES OUR TRANSITION TO RECUMBENT eBIKES Our next step toward more extended TRANSITIONING AWAY FROM bikes, and luggage delivery between touring was the eBike. We took other SELF-SUPPORTED TOURS hotels or B&Bs. These trips reminded supported trips with e-assist, including In 1977, we met on a self-supported us of our love of touring and suggested the Adventure Cycling Southern Bikecentennial tour from Missoula that it need not be as onerous as we Charm tour and two trips in Italy. to Astoria, Oregon (on the Lewis and remembered. We could still enjoy the We knew that eBikes were right for Clark Trail), and the following year we daily rides, and although we missed us because we enjoyed the riding so did the route in British Columbia, part camping each evening, it was not a much more. We didn’t have to worry of which later became the Great Parks problem to sleep on a real mattress, about riding too slowly and holding North route. For the next 10 years, we with air conditioning and no mosquitos. up the group, and when we spotted a continued self-supported touring on hill coming up, there was no sinking our own in Colorado, New Hampshire, TRANSITIONING TO RECUMBENTS feeling about how many rest stops we Vermont, Washington State, and We continued to ride during the no- would need on the climb. elsewhere. On these trips, we regularly touring years, and we transitioned to After these experiences with pedaled 60 to 80 miles a day, often in recumbent bikes about 15 years ago. recumbents, e-assist, and supported mountainous terrain. We found that this relieved the sore trips, we assessed our situation After a hiatus in our touring due to butt issues and was easier on our knees, and decided that we preferred our careers and family, we are now retired hands, and shoulders. On our European recumbents, we wanted e-assist, and empty nesters. We wanted to tour again tours, we used upright bikes that were although we liked the groups we but thought that we were no longer provided by the tour companies, and traveled with and intend to continue able to carry all of our gear on routes though they weren’t a problem, decided riding with others, we also liked being with one or more mountain passes. As a that we continued to prefer our Tour able to strike out on our own without result, the last five years we have done Easy bikes at home. Next up was the luggage transport or provided meals. supported tours including Bike and Katy Trail — we rode that with our Barge in Europe and tours in Ireland recumbents, staying in Airbnbs along INVESTING IN EBIKES and Germany/Austria along the Danube the trail and carrying our clothing and Putting all this together began the with companies that provided maps, personal gear. search for the right bicycles. We

14 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 We found that our kits allowed us a range of about 85 miles with four panniers on a route with a 4,500-foot summit. Without packs, we have a range of about 115 miles.

couldn’t find factory-made long- you contribute, the longer the range. eBike, you should expect everything wheelbase recumbents that came with Our effort is difficult to quantify, but to work out the door, although it may e-assist, so we investigated retrofit on level or downhill routes, we would take a little time to familiarize yourself kits and found one that seemed to dial the e-assist down. We dialed up with the operation. With our kits, we meet our needs. We chose kits that the amount of assist depending on the returned to the bike shop that had we hoped would provide a 100-mile steepness of the grade. installed them for additional assistance. range on one charge, allowing us to We didn’t have any problem with Once we refined the setups, the bikes keep bicycling in the western U.S. charging the batteries in rural areas worked well. where there can be stretches of trail of Idaho and British Columbia. We One significant difference is in the where services are rare. stayed in B&Bs or hotels and took the fine-tuning of the assist: factory-built The Selkirk Loop was our first batteries in with us to charge at night. eBikes typically have three or four levels opportunity to test the eBikes for Our batteries provided sufficient range of assist whereas we have unlimited touring, followed by the Old West that we didn’t need to charge during the degrees between the minimum and Scenic Bikeway in Oregon. We carried day. On the Southern Charm Adventure maximum, which can be controlled four panniers each, two underseat Cycling tour, we rented eBikes with through computerized settings. and two rear, with about 30 pounds of smaller batteries, and at noon we could If appearance matters, consider that gear. We had many questions about the charge them briefly at churches or the retrofit kits will not be as sleek. For practicality of using eBikes for touring: at cafés to make it through the day. example, the cables on our recumbents Can you do cross-country touring with Everyone we asked said it was fine. are fastened outside the frame, whereas an eBike? What is the average range on in factory-built eBikes, they are a battery charge? Our longest day (and FACTORY-BUILT OR RETROFIT? threaded inside the tubes. the route included a summit) would You might ask whether you should go For us, the advantage of the retrofit be 70 miles. How much e-assist would with a factory-built eBike or add a kit to kits was that they allowed us to use we use? Obviously, the more effort your existing bike. With a factory-built CONTINUED ON PAGE 48

The Central Lakes Trail Starts Here Fergus Falls, MN

130 miles of paved rail trails BikeFergusFalls.com

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 15 Motoring Along After knocking out a lifetime’s worth of bike tours, this couple is at it again — on eBikes

by ALEX STRICKLAND

the Texas Hill Country. But, as Janet said, “mission creep” quickly set in. What started as an idea for an early winter ride in Texas to avoid some of the Pacific Northwest’s gloomy winter weather morphed into a ride from the couple’s Seattle-area home down the Pacific Coast, across the Southern Tier, down to Key West, then up the Atlantic Seaboard, and across the Northern Tier to close a continental loop. “The joy of zipping along far outweighs

COURTESY JANET ANSPACH RICKEY ANSPACH JANET COURTESY the weight of

n 2014, Janet Anspach Rickey and traveler. But their moment of eBike her husband Stephen set off on what epiphany came just a few years after the bike.” I would become a 12,530-mile criss- their first country criss-cross after crossing of America on their Rodriguez Stephen turned 70. “We left on September 21, 2018, touring bikes. Four years later, they took “He wasn’t as interested in longer and got home exactly one year later, off for another 12,000-mile trip, this rides anymore,” Janet said. “We rode September 20, 2019,” Janet said. time tracing the country’s perimeter — our bikes to Seattle Electric Bikes, and In that year spent with fully loaded and aboard a pair of BULLS eBikes. the first thing they say when you get eBikes, the pair learned a few lessons. “If you find yourself thinking, ‘I there is, ‘Pick out a bike and let’s go for But because their plans had always don’t wanna go down that road because a ride together.’” included indoor accommodation, having there’s a hill on it,’ you start routing to Though the experience left a strong a motor and battery along for the ride avoid the hills,” Janet said. “An eBike impression, the couple left the shop didn’t alter their planned accomodations. changes that — one reason we wanted without new bikes in tow. But not long “Just before we left, we got Thule to perimeter again was to do all our after, they rented eBikes for a tour of (Pack ’n Pedal Tour) racks for the tours again on eBikes! It’s such a joy to Spain’s famed Camino de Santiago. front, and I told Stephen, ‘We don’t ride an eBike.” “The very first day of the ride, have to go light anymore, we’re on Janet, 66, and Stephen, 73, have you’re climbing mountains. But I loved eBikes!’” she said. checked off nearly every big bike tour it, this was just bringing the joy back A little assist also meant that Janet you can imagine — the Pacific Coast — especially with fully loaded bikes,” carried a small folding chair and a (three times), Southern Tier (twice), Janet said. six-pack–sized cooler along for the Northern Tier, TransAm, East Coast Back in the U.S., they quickly ride since indoor accommodations Greenway, Camino de Santiago; theirs purchased two BULLS Cross Lite also meant opportunities to re-freeze is a veritable bucket list for any bike eBikes and hatched plans for a ride in CONTINUED ON PAGE 49

16 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 eBike Tips

e asked cycling W correspondent Molly Harris, who has toured through Western Europe and the Balkans by eBike, for a few tips on making the most of your battery-powered adventures.

Keep the cadence swift Another unexpected efficiency tip for new eBike cyclists is that the eBike and battery perform better when you keep a quick cadence. Pedaling a higher rpm will keep the eBike moving evenly and will extend the charge on the battery.

Although this is true for any assist NATALIE STARR setting, the lower the setting, the longer the battery will last. If Store the battery properly Work harder to get going you feel the assist isn’t necessary If you’ve already taken the time Though eBikes certainly can during your ride, you can always to maintain the charge on your give you the boost you might switch it off to preserve the eBike’s battery, the last thing need to get going from even a battery for when it is needed. you want to do is let that charge total stop on a steep slope, it’s die out. Like most battery- not the best practice. Whether powered electronics such as your you have a long ride ahead or phone or laptop, eBike batteries you are running low on the Slow it down are also sensitive to extreme charge, pedaling harder will take A major misstep for most new temperatures. It’s best to keep pressure off the battery. This eBike cyclists is that it’s tempting it stored indoors where the helps preserve the charge and to give it all you’ve got to see temperature is regulated. It’s also improve the range of the battery. what the bike can do and where important to charge the battery So, if you have it in you to push it tops out. However, even on the every other month or so during hard during tougher moments on lowest assist setting, eBikes give inactive periods. This will keep the bike like hills or starting from you quite a power boost. It’s much the battery in great shape so it’s a stop, working harder at the safer to learn how the eBike feels ready to go again when you are. right time will serve you well. and handles at a slower speed before cranking it up. In doing so, you’ll understand how far in advance to start slowing down Weight watchers to safely stop. Clearly with the Riding an eBike might seem like it would be no different than taking off on battery’s extra power, it will take a any other bike, but there are noteworthy differences. While the assist can be longer time to stop. This will also a leg saver, eBikes come with distinct challenges. Foremost is that these bikes prevent you from wasting any of are considerably heavier than typical bikes. Cyclists should take care both the charge on accelerating before mounting and dismounting until the eBike feels familiar. a stop sign.

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 17 A FATHER- DAUGHTER TEAM RIDE FROM MICHIGAN TO KEY WEST ON A PAIR OF PENNY FARTHINGS

story By Amy Oleynik

18 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 ven with over 45 years of riding Riding high wheels across the others at all times, so the trip seemed experience between my dad and country wasn’t new to us. My father and safe enough to continue. Plus, I hoped me, I was extremely nervous for I rode from San Francisco to Boston to be the first female to ride across the Eour next two weeks of cycling. Our SAG in 2016, following in the footsteps (or U.S. west to east and north to south on a wagon (my mom) was leaving us; we tire treads) of the first cross-country high wheel. would be totally unsupported. My dad, rider, Thomas Stevens, who rode in So here we were in October 2020.

Randy, was optimistic, which was good 1884. Dad’s life goal was to ride across All my belongings were crammed in a COURTESY AMY OLEYNIK — one of us needed to be. But what if the country the original way — on a backpack: two pairs of clothes, tools, something went wrong? What if we broke high wheel. In 2016, we were supported my iPad for work, and water, which down on the side of the road? After all, the whole time, which made life much weighed the most. My bike weighed our bikes were over 130 years old. easier. We learned many lessons that 45 pounds and I also had to carry 10 My Columbia Light Roadster was built would help us on our 2020 journey pounds on my back. This made it more in 1888 and has a 51-inch front wheel. from Sault Ste. Marie, Michigan, to Key difficult to get on and off, and overall My dad’s has a 54 inch. These bikes are West, Florida. it made my body sore. Thank goodness called high wheels, ordinaries, or penny When 2020 rolled around, the trip for hot showers and ibuprofen. farthings. You know, the bikes that was already two years in the making, Our first five days, we rode through Mike Wolfe on the TV show “American work conflicts having pushed our ride the splashy fall foliage of northern Pickers” loves to find? Parts must be out. We looked at the data, followed and western Michigan. We dipped our custom made if you need to replace the regulations, and by the time the back wheel into the St. Mary’s River, anything, so a bike shop can’t help you summer had come, we decided to still connecting to Lake Superior, to begin when you run into mechanical trouble. take the journey. In addition to granola our lake-to-salt ride. We stayed on On the open road, you use a lot of grease, bars and Aspercreme, we loaded up Mackinac Island, passed cider mills, and have Gorilla tape for backup, and pray on face masks, hand sanitizer, and used smooth trails. In Grand Rapids, you don’t run over anything larger than a disinfectant wipes. Bike riding was Dad and I strapped on our packs, said stick. In a face-off of high wheel vs. large deemed a COVID-safe activity. We goodbye to Mom, and set out. Heading stick, large stick usually wins. knew we would distance ourselves from through the city was challenging —

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 19 SAG wagons require special considerations when high wheels are the vehicles of choice — a custom bike rack is mandatory.

the first of many busy cities. Google we learned that Gorilla tape was the I am most aware of Maps for bikes is made for modern-day best tool to have for emergencies. We “shorties” with pneumatic tires that can literally taped the tire to my dad’s back easily maneuver around. That’s not us. wheel when it came off in Wyoming. Stopping and getting off for us needs Now, we collected the pieces of the grip how tall my bike is to be premeditated, and boy, were we and roughly taped it back together too.

tested. Sidewalks ended suddenly, and We called Mom back at home to get COURTESY AMY OLEYNIK once we had to walk under a bridge that another handle grip packed into the car when it rains. would have decapitated us. for when she returned. The backroads and bike trails were I am most aware of how tall my bike where we felt most at home. As we is when it rains. Rain makes the small Rain makes the entered Indiana, the familiar landscape step on the backbone for dismounting of farmland greeted us. Miles and miles very slick. At some point, I attempted of corn can be boring, but they’re useful to get off my bike and slipped. I was to the long-distance cyclist. The tall stuck on the seat and I had run out small step on crops made for excellent wind blocks of momentum. I felt like one of those and emergency bathrooms. cartoon characters after they walk over We had our first fall near Lake a cliff — just hanging in midair, seconds the backbone for Michigan. Though we are both before dropping like a weight. Here I experienced riders, the environment is was frozen in time, unable to get off my always unpredictable. Seeing a parking high wheel. Then, plop. Over I went. dismounting lot with a great beach view, we pulled Nothing wakes you up like falling from in for a break. Unfortunately, the layer seven feet! But I had stuck out my leg of sand in the lot was deeper than it and hung onto the handle bars, so when looked so my dad’s bike slid out from my foot hit the ground, the bike swung very slick. under him. His handle grip shattered, around me like a 130-year-old dance but otherwise he was fine. In 2016, partner at a hoedown. Besides a mini

20 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 heart attack, I was perfectly okay. The silver linings in these rainy days were the socially distant visits with some Indiana Wheelmen. The Wheelmen is an international organization dedicated to collecting antique bicycles, and preserving and demonstrating cycling history. My family has been involved in the club since 1994 so we have made many friends over the years. If our path took us near fellow Wheelmen as we headed south, we would try to visit. Some even drove an hour or more to see us since we had far less mobility after dark. These brief visits lifted my spirits. I currently live in California, far away from the Midwest Wheelmen community I grew up in. Getting to see folks hadn’t seen in over five years energized me more than any Red Bull or coffee ever could. Even though we had to wear masks and elbow bump instead of hug, these visits were what sustained me mentally and emotionally. It probably was elevated even more so from being quarantined for months on end with little social interaction. Food was our other motivation. We ride for donuts. We cycle for ice cream. We pedal for yogurt parfaits. Cruising into Jeffersonville, Indiana, we were about to be kids in a candy store. Literally. The Schimpff’s Confectionery was a local gold mine of homemade candies and a museum to candy making. The owners did a demonstration making cinnamon red hots, complete with free samples. Once they saw our bikes out front, owner Jim Schimpff brought out candy molds of various high wheel bicycles and told us their history. They also had a soda shoppe set up, and I’m lucky my dad didn’t move in right then and there. He has a fondness for all things ice cream. I think the only reason he willingly left is that Mr. Schimpff said he could come back and apprentice there to learn the techniques of the 1950’s soda jerk. From Jeffersonville, we took the Big Four Bridge into Louisville, Kentucky. We had three Kentucky Wheelmen join us that day: Alison and Carson Torpey, and Andy Murphy, a.k.a. “Murph.” Murph set us up to interview with the local news station who met us on the top of the bridge. After our small

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 21 Riding along the final stretch in Key West, Florida, after making a north–south crossing of the country. spotlight, we were approached by two collecting money. We don’t race past have basically no brakes. You just have other men with a camera. They were the scenery since we go 10 mph on to backpedal. We have spoon brakes from BBC News and in Louisville on a good day, 8 mph on a bad day. We that push down on the front wheel, assignment, but they saw us and wanted could fully enjoy the cows staring at but they’re not very strong. You have to get a segment as well. Sharing our us, woolly bear caterpillars wiggling to make a judgement call if a hill is too story internationally was an incredible, into the street, various landscape steep to go down. But if it looks safe and albeit random, surprise. designs of homes and their Halloween there’s no stop sign at the bottom, you Alison and Carson guided us through decorations. Some towns were so small, can take your feet off the pedals and Louisville the next day. Alison gave without any gas stations or stores, coast down. I hit 26 mph on a few of us an informal tour while Carson yet plenty of dogs to chase us. We did them bad boys myself. disappeared at random. Turned out find some hidden gems, like authentic No great adventure is complete he was picking up coins he saw on backroad BBQ and local bakeries. without a few more twists and turns. ROB O’NEAL/FLORIDA KEYS NEWS BUREAU the side of the road. After we left the Kentucky and Tennessee brought us Most issues came from using Google Torpeys, Dad and I continued the trend into the hills. It was sad to say goodbye Maps. Farm roads disappeared, of picking up stray money. We didn’t to the rail trails, but at least I wouldn’t turned to sand, or didn’t exist at all. get off our bikes every time we saw a get hit in the with branches. (Trail Google Street View became our go-to penny (and there were many), but we groomers don’t trim trees for high wheel resource, since we could see exactly were able to collect $6.34, two Canadian heights.) Because high wheels are fixed what roads were made out of. High dollars, and 50 pesos by the time we gear, you have to crank as hard as you wheels and loose gravel do not mix reached Key West! Something I learned can to get up a hill. You can’t stand on well. Construction also popped up, and while looking down at the street for your pedals to get momentum, but you even though one bridge was out for 37 days was that there were dimes in can pull on your handlebars to get some over a year, the app said we could cross almost every single intersection. Why opposing torque. Once I hit 5 mph, I it. Lucky for us, the bridge was almost it’s always dimes will forever remain a know it’s time to get off my bike or risk complete and the crew let us walk mystery to me. falling over. Downhills are far more through. Locals helped us out as well, Slow cruising had its perks besides fun but can be dangerous. High wheels some cyclists even finding us on the

22 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 ELECTRIC BICYCLE TOUR ADVENTURE

Dismounting is never a simple task, even at a long tour’s finish. MOROCCO

street to ask about our trip, and giving moon pies. Strangely, we were not able us good directions. to find much, largely due to COVID Meeting the locals was dad’s favorite. shutting down small businesses. On High wheel bikes are eye-catching, so one of our last days in the Peach State, no matter where we stopped, people a car stopped next to us in a parking came to talk to us. They asked us the lot. A woman got out and introduced typical questions. “How do you get herself as someone from our very small on?” “Where did you get it?” “Are you hometown, Carleton. Turns out Dad crazy?” The only problem was when knew her family and they went to the people were in cars. Some people tried same high school back in the day. to talk to us or, worse, take photos while She lived in the next town over, read ROB O’NEAL/FLORIDA KEYS NEWS BUREAU driving. I had a car come within inches our blog, and decided to find us on the of me because they swerved while road because she had some very special trying to take my picture! Looky loos treats for us. She read that we couldn’t can also cause traffic congestion, much find moon pies on our “food bucket list” to other drivers’ annoyance. But what so she bought some, as well authentic do you expect when we like we’re Georgia peanuts, satsuma oranges THROUGH bringing the circus to town? from her backyard, and some cotton Somehow the two weeks without our puffs for souvenirs. To have someone SOUTHERN SAG flew by. When Mom returned, it get up early and go out of their way couldn’t have been better timing. Each to do something that nice for us was TUSCANY day we rode south grew warmer, so incredibly humbling and heartwarming. all the layers we had packed weighed The moon pies were also delicious. us down. Hurricane Eta had also hit Hitting that Georgia-Florida state the U.S. Who knew that, on top of line felt like reaching the finish line COVID-19, the U.S. would experience itself. Though we unknowingly had an above-average hurricane season? 11 more days ahead of us, I could feel Storms blew our way, slowing us down. our victory inching closer. The warm With our custom bike rack on Mom’s weather and tropical plants added van, she was able to pick us up and drop to the excitement. We found bike us off at our end/start points. We also trails that helped avoid the logging had more food and clothing options, as trucks, and on the first path, we came well as my laptop. It was faster to do my across a bike club that gave us helpful remote work and write my daily travel directions. When we stopped to look at blog (highwheelride.wordpress.com) our first ’gator on that same bike path, on a laptop rather than an iPad. we met some lovely ladies, one of whom Georgia inspired us to make a had a golden conure bird in a sweet MANY MORE bucket list featuring Southern food: little travel backpack. His name was fried chicken, peach cobbler, and Bebop, and I loved him. DESTINATIONS ON WWW.EDELWEISSBICYCLE.COM

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 23 One of my favorite photos cheered as they saw us coming. It moments was reaching was surreal, getting to parade into town Daytona Beach. Dad and and have a warm reception, as if we had I went body while crossed an actual finish line. Mom searched for shells. One The buoy wasn’t our last stop Florida Wheelman suggested though. We found the famous green that we ride our bikes on the 0-mile and, lastly, dipped our beach itself, which of course front wheels into the Atlantic Ocean we did. The hard-packed to bookend our lake-to-salt ride. sand was far better than the Beachgoers looked confused as we quicksand in the parking lot carried our bikes across the sand, but far, far away in Indiana. that hardly mattered. After 37 days, we Hurricane Eta wasn’t done had made it, and I had reached my goal yet. Roads were flooded, of being the first female high wheeler forcing us to reroute. Two to travel west–east and north–south! stormy days had us barely The day after our victory, we getting 40 miles in a day. celebrated in true cycling fashion — Finally, Eta exhausted itself by going on another bike ride. This and it was prime weather slow roll of 10 miles was special. It was for entering the Keys. Over with the Key West Bike Club! Leading countless bridges we went, the way in their iconic red shirts, we keeping an eye out for manatee moseyed around the streets dotted with and alligators. Being in the free-roaming chickens, getting our Keys felt more like a vacation own historical tour by local tour guide than work. We fed giant tarpon Bruce. He even gave us our own red fish at Robbie’s pier, which I Bike Club shirts, so we’re truly inducted had to be persuaded into doing into the group! since it required holding a dead While each state brought us new fish. We swam in motel pools, challenges, local foods, and sore had fresh seafood, and saw tiny muscles, we could always count on one The author’s ride was bookended with ceremonial wheel-dippings. Key deer on Big Pine Key. thing: everyone wanted to know if we COURTESY AMY OLEYNIK Our last day of riding watched “American Pickers.” It also Getting to see the ocean, I could have was pure celebration. Do you gave me some great tan lines to take gladly stopped there. Route A1A went remember Murph from Kentucky? His home for the winter. But my favorite by the boardwalk, and my heart was stepdaughter, Destiny, lives in Key West. thing it brought me was being closer to glowing. Basking in the sun and seeing She heard about our trip and rallied the my dad and mom, and those memories the surf was a dream. I quickly learned Key West Bike Club to meet us. We had a will last longer than the tan lines. I had to snap out of it and look down police escort through Key West, followed because there were iguanas everywhere. by the bike club, and another TV crew Amy Oleynik can be found petting neighborhood cats They waddled as fast as they could, like came to film. As we turned a corner, we and pedaling her high wheel around Davis, California, whose city emblem is a high wheel bike. Her two cross- little cowboys. We ended up leaving saw the famous Key West buoy, marking country trips are wildly illustrated at highwheelride. A1A due to it being too narrow, but the the southernmost part of the U.S. The wordpress.com and a documentary coming soon. iguanas were still plenty. tourists who were there for their own

24 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 2020 Impact Report ADVENTURE CYCLING ASSOCIATION ILLUSTRATION BY DANIEL MRGAN DANIEL BY ILLUSTRATION

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 25 Financials

Total Total Revenue Expenses $5,276,876 $5,226,430

NET REVENUE $50,446

revenue* Membership: 47% Donations/grants: 36% COVID-19 grants: 12% Advertising: 7% Merch (Net): 4% Other: 4% *Total surpasses 100% due to a $349,170 loss in Tours Revenue. expenses Program Services: 86.5% Development: 9.4% Administration: 4.1%

Increase in contributed revenue over previous year, after onset of the pandemic: 21%

“Life is good during and after a bike ride.” – Roger DiBrito, Florence, Montana PHOTO BY CHAZ FIRESTONE

26 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 Dear Fellow Members,

A year ago Joyce wrote, “I am looking forward to all 2020 has in store for us.” Oh, if only we could rewind those words! You, Adventure Cycling members, are our lifeblood. Never has that been more true than in 2020. Our biggest challenge has been weathering the changes brought on by COVID-19, and that would not have been possible without you. Let us start by expressing our sincere appreciation and gratitude for your support as part of this community. Mid-March, after an agonizing phone call, we decided to cancel the first of what would be nearly all our tours for the year. It was the right thing to do, but with those canceled tours, we lost so much. People missed out on the camaraderie and connections that make our tours special. Across the country and around the globe, bicycle travelers canceled or scaled back plans. Dreams were deferred. Because we had to cancel the majority of our tours, we lost over $2 million in expected revenue. And yet, when we asked for your support, you generously gave it! You told us you value the connection that bicycle travel provides. You made it possible to continue building our bicycle community through our strategic initiatives even as the unknowns of the pandemic loomed. And though we would have loved to see you on tour or at a member gathering, our webinars made it possible to connect with anyone who has an internet connection. In a year when staying above water feels like accomplishment enough, you helped us do so much more. We launched the new Parks, Peaks, and Prairies Route; established U.S. Bicycle Routes in four new states; advocated for safer roads; but most importantly, we continued to inspire, empower, and connect people to travel by bicycle. Please enjoy the following pages that are a snapshot of everything you made possible. Thank you!

Sincerely,

Joyce E. Casey, President, Adventure Cycling Board of Directors

Scott Pankratz, Adventure Cycling Executive Director

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 27 28

ADVENTURE CYCLIST CYCLIST ADVENTURE 94% 94% ril pr a above average average above of readers find readers of

Adventure r excellent or 254 total 50,000 Members Members 2,848 of our 2,848

In a year when staying above water feels like accomplishment feels above water staying In ayear when 2021 new Life magazine Cyclist members enough, you helped us do so much more. much usdo so youenough, helped

Bicycle Route Bicycle a have downloaded 12,720 times was podcast our 5-star Dynamo Jenny states 31 workshops virtual in PARTICIPANTS 2,717 + DC + U.S. U.S. Impact

30,438 apps installed Navigator Bicycle Route 18,429 maps sold total maps 406,718 406,718 miles ridden Bike Your Park Day and printed andprinted Bike Travel Weekend Travel Bike electronic electronic

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website Cycling Adventure visited users 1,042,738 total miles cresting 50,000 Network Route Cycling Adventure added to the 1,288 MILES MILES

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PHOTO BY JESS KIM Highlights

You inspire. u Four bright and promising young people will introduce the next generation to bicycle travel as winners of the Greg Siple Award for Young Adult Bicycle Travel. James Keys, Emilytricia Lopez Marchena, Rachel Pauli, and Corinna Wollmann will gain the skills and gear needed to share the joy of bicycle travel with their communities. u Bike Travel Weekend and Bike Your Park Day created opportunities for people to go on short bike adventures close to home and connect at a time when it was unsafe to travel, with 925 events and 406,718 miles ridden. u More than 9,000 participants got one step closer to that next epic adventure through virtual and socially distanced bike travel workshops and events.

You empower. u We are making progress on your rumble strip concerns! Both Kansas and California departments of transportation incorporated Adventure Cycling’s best practice standards into their rumble strip guidances. u Maps for the highly anticipated Parks, Peaks, and Prairies Route arrived just as the pandemic hit. Over 200 people participated in a virtual ride of the route, covering over 58,500 miles! u Our Routes department made significant leaps toward building our community and tapping into member knowledge by developing data submission functions through Cyclist’s Choice in our Bicycle Route Navigator app.

You connect. u After years of dedicated work by volunteers, California, Wisconsin, North Dakota, and New York established their first U.S. Bicycle Routes! Maryland, West Virginia, and the District of Columbia added new routes as well, for a total of almost 15,000 miles of U.S. Bicycle Routes!

u More than 650 volunteers dedicated 2,297 hours to projects connecting our bike travel community in all sorts of ways, from organizing rides with friends on Bike Your Park Day to stuffing envelopes for donations to keep our community going strong.

u Looking out for each other is more important than ever! We developed policies, procedures, and protocols to run tours safely during the pandemic while offering the same high-quality experience.

“As a queer woman of color and daughter of immigrants, the communities I come from are not predominantly represented in the outdoor and bike industry. Making this knowledge more accessible to our communities so they are inspired to tour is one of my commitments on dedicating my life to doing this work around bike and outdoor equity. Diversifying the outdoors around race, gender, sexuality, youth, and all body types is work rooted in social justice and healing.”

– Emilytricia Lopez Marchena, Greg Siple Award for Young Adult Bicycle Travel Recipient

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 29 “I am in awe of Adventure Cycling’s progress through the years. I love your maps; I’ve spent many hours dreaming and planning with your maps as my guide. Thanks also for your valuable advocacy for bike travel and Adventure Cycling staff’s dedication and hard work.” – Carol Kaufman, Hutchinson, Kansas

“Adventure Cycling is ...... my church.” – Peter McKenney, Life Member ... my legacy.” – Matt Cohn, Life Member ... the plasma in my blood.” – Steve Powell, Life Member PHOTO BY ED GOSS

30 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 Thank You

We are grateful for our members, volunteers, donors, sponsors, and grantors who make it all possible, notably these members who contributed financially in 2020.

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Kevin Brewing, State of Montana, Town Pump Charitable Foundation ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 31 We invite you to inspire, empower, and connect people through the power of bicycle travel. Your community needs your help to expand, engage, and diversify the bike touring universe. Legions of cyclists — beginners and veterans — are looking for meaningful ways to connect and explore. Will you help bring people and communities together in extraordinary ways?

Please give today at: adventurecycling.org/donate

Adventure Cycling Association is a nonprofit charitable organization as qualified under Section 501(c)(3) of the Internal Revenue Code. PHOTO BY SARAH CRUZ

32 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 Extend your range.

MOTORBIKES JonesJonesMotorbikes.comMotorbikes.com

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 33 Road Test

SPECIALIZED TURBO COMO 3.0 TEST BIKE MEASUREMENTS SPECIFICATIONS Price: $3,250 • Stack: 699mm • Frame: E5 aluminum, rack and Sizes available: S, M/L, XL • Reach: 363mm fender mounts Size tested: M/L • Head tube length: 225mm • Motor: Specialized 1.2E, 250W Weight: 47.6 lbs. (including pedals) • Head tube angle: 68° • Battery: Specialized integrated and lockable, 460Wh • Seat tube length: 450mm • Fork: Turbo Como aluminum, rack • Seat tube angle: 68° and fender mounts • Top tube: 660mm (effective) • Handlebar: Specialized alloy, 30° • Chainstays: 485mm sweep, 680mm width, 31.8mm • Bottom bracket drop: 75mm clamp • Wheelbase: 1142mm • Stem: Specialized Flowset, 20° rise • Standover height: 835mm • Derailer: Alivio Shadow SGS, 9spd SPECIALIZED • Shifter: Shimano Alivio • Brakes: Tektro HD-T275 hydraulic disc • Rotors: Tektro, 160mm rear, TURBO COMO 3.0 180mm front • Crankset: Custom alloy forged BY DAN MEYER crankarms, 170mm, 46T chainring

➺Among Specialized’s electrified offerings, all of which are named Turbo something — Levo, Kenevo, Creo, Vado, and Como — the Turbo Como is the “comfort” model, a bike designed for ambling around town. It’s styled like a cruiser bike, and indeed it rides a bit like a beach cruiser: seated over the rear wheel, the front way out ahead of you, relaxed, unhurried. But even if you’re going nowhere in no hurry, there’s a 250W motor helping you get there faster. The Turbo Como is a Class 1 eBike, meaning it’s pedal-assist only (no throttle) with a maximum assisted speed of 20 mph. The 3.0 model tested here comes with a 460Wh battery integrated into the downtube. The 4.0 and 5.0 models — there are also “Low-Entry” (step-through) models at each price point as well — offer similar motors with larger batteries. The Como’s aluminum frame and fork have rack and fender mounts to suit your all-weather and carrying needs, the meaty tires help tune out bad road vibrations, and it even includes a kickstand and front and rear lights. The drivetrain is simple, dependable Shimano Alivio; with nine gears, it’s plenty to get you up even the steepest of hills. And braking power comes from Tektro’s T275 hydros, which are a smart, affordable spec for this application. In the cockpit you’ll find a comfortable, swept-back handlebar

34 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 • Cassette: Shimano CS-HG200, GEARING RANGE 9spd, 11–36T 46 adorned with a bell and a remote for • Chain: KMC e9 11 115.3 dialing up or down the boost level, • Pedals: Specialized Commuter 13 97.7 as well as a display that shows your • Seatpost: Specialized alloy, 15 84.7 speed, battery level, mileage, etc. I 30.9mm 17 74.8 found the bell particularly handy; on • Saddle: Body Geometry “The Cup,” 20 63.5 the Como, you will be going faster 245mm 23 55.2 • Hubs: Specialized, 15 x 100mm than pedestrians, drivers, or even 48.8 front, 12 x 148mm rear, thru-axles 26 you would expect, so it’s important 30 42.2 • Rims: Double-wall alloy, 32h to make your presence known. 36 35.3 • Tires: Nimbus II Sport Reflect, Aft of the cockpit is — surprise! 650b x 2.3in. — a saddle, and a big, squishy one at • Grips: Body Geometry Contour Contact: Specialized Bicycle Components, that. I generally don’t find comfort • Extras: Kickstand, bell, front and Inc., 15130 Concord Circle, Morgan Hill, CA rear lights, bar-mounted display 95037, 877.808.8154, specialized.com saddles like these to be terribly, well, comfortable, but it suits the Como given the pedaling position. The seat tube angle is a very slack 68°, putting a lot of your weight on your behind and necessitating a wider perch. This being a comfort eBike, smooth is the name of the game. Regardless of which of the three modes you’re in — Eco, Sport, or Turbo — the assist comes on smoothly and without any undue violence. Unlike some other eBikes that shove so hard you nearly fall off the back, the Como is more civilized. Whereas other mid-drive eBikes suffer from resistance when you cross the assistance threshold, Specialized’s motors — which it developed with Brose, the German electric motor manufacturer — eschew direct drive for belt-driven planetary gears. According to Marco Sonderegger, leader of Turbo eBike Product Development at Specialized, the belt drive makes for a quieter motor and eliminates that resistance. Indeed, although I rarely bothered to go any faster than 20 mph, doing so was a much smoother affair than I’ve experienced on other eBikes. The real genius of an eBike is not that you’re getting someplace faster or perspiring less along the way. Instead, it’s this: as soon as I picked up the Como from Bingham Cyclery, my local Specialized dealer here in Salt Lake City, I found myself making up excuses to run to the grocery store or to the post office. Trips for which I might have

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 35 Indeed, I made the 20-mile round- WHILE I HAD THE COMO IN FOR TESTING, IT KEPT DISAPPEARING trip trek to REI a couple of times on the Como, a mostly flat route with a lot FROM MY APARTMENT. WHERE WAS IT GOING? of stops. I used Turbo mode because, well, why not, and, having started with a full charge, each time I returned TURNS OUT MY WIFE HAD BEEN STEALING IT FOR HER COMMUTES with about a quarter to a third of the battery left. Once depleted, it’s about UP THE (VERY) STEEP HILL TO THE UNIVERSITY OF UTAH. four to six hours to reach full charge. I usually plugged it in at night when it got low and enjoyed a full battery otherwise walked or taken the car or all that weight in the back. And going the next morning. (The battery is simply not taken at all, I was now riding down the hill was a good test of the removable and lockable.) the Como. Tektro brakes, one they passed with Another handy tool is Specialized’s To test its carrying capacity, I flying colors. Mission Control app, which connects mounted a rear rack, affixed a couple When it comes to range, the Turbo to the bike via Bluetooth. In addition to of large Ortlieb panniers, and scurried Como likely won’t be your pick for tracking your rides and showing your off to the grocery store. This store an electrified cross-country epic. bike’s firmware status, the app lets you happens to be at the top of a large Specialized doesn’t offer a claimed customize the assist modes to your liking. hill, and, as expected, getting there on range for the 3.0, but it does have a But the most useful part of the app is the Como was a breeze. Once there, I handy range calculator on its website Smart Control. With Smart Control, you bought a week’s worth of groceries and (specialized.com/us/en/turbo- pick how far you want to ride by time or crammed it all in the panniers. It was calculator/app). Using Eco mode with distance, along with how much climbing enough that, coupled with the Como’s few stops and on flat terrain — and an your route has and how much assist already hefty 47.6 pounds, I could average speed of 16 mph — the calculator you want on the climbs, and the app hardly lift up the back of the bike to claims a maximum range of 53 miles for will adjust the motor to get you to your swing it around. Once rolling, the me, which sounds about right. In Turbo destination without depleting the battery. Como handled pretty well in spite of mode, that drops to 29 miles. It’s a great way to eliminate range anxiety.

36 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 At $3,250, the Como 3.0 is ADVENTURE CYCLING Specialized’s most affordable eBike. There are certainly less CORPORATE MEMBERS expensive eBikes out there (such Adventure Cycling’s business partners play a significant role in the success of our as the Charge XC in last month’s nonprofit organization. Our Corporate Membership Program is designed to spotlight issue), but it’s hard to discount the these key supporters. Corporate Members are companies that believe in what we do benefits of buying from a major and wish to provide additional assistance through a higher level of support. These brand with widespread dealer corporate membership funds go toward special projects and the creation of new support. If it were my money — programs. To learn more about how your business can become a corporate supporter of Adventure Cycling, go to adventurecycling.org/corporate or call 800.755.2453. and, with each new eBike I ride, it looks increasingly more likely that it will be my money someday TITANIUM soon — I’d spring for the Como 5.0 for its larger (600Wh) battery, fenders, and front Pizza Rack. But the 3.0 is an excellent foray into electrified ownership, a bike that can serve your cruising and commuting needs and even carry your camping gear for a quick overnight, assuming you keep your mileage in check. Author’s note: While I had the Como in for testing, it kept disappearing from my apartment. Where was it going? Turns out my wife had been stealing it GOLD for her commutes up the (very) steep hill to the University of Utah. In her own words: “When Dan wheeled the Como through our front door, I knew it would be my new commuting bike. It was striking just how easy it made my mornings. Thanks to Turbo mode, my commute time was cut in half. I no longer had to plan two outfits: one for class and one for the ride up to class. I could now just toss on my scrubs, throw a lunch into my pack, and be on my way. The integrated headlight and taillight meant never needing to worry about whether I had charged my usual commuting lights. The SILVER zippy pace erased my fears about creeping slowly uphill in the dark Anderson ZurMuehlen & Co. PC Joplin CVB with impatient motorists honking at Astral Cycling/Rolf Prima ShipBikes.com me from behind.” So maybe the real danger of buying an eBike isn’t running out of BRONZE juice or developing a hernia from Baumgartner Law Firm Portland Design Works heaving it up a set of stairs. Instead, Bedrock Sandals Rocky Mountain Print Solutions the real danger is that you might Kisling, Nestico & Redick Rosenfeld Injury Lawyers LLC have to buy two. Lavent Law Senior Cycling Maus Law Firm SlowCycle Tours Dan Meyer is the Deputy Editor of Adventure Cyclist. Montana Cycling Project Steven M. Sweat, Personal Injury Lawyers, APC Oveja Negra Visit Mississippi

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 37 by Alex Strickland and Berne Broudy GEARED UP

Tacx Boost Trainer, $299 Indoor trainers are having a moment — COVID has fueled the already-hot market for indoor cycling, and new apps and trainers have made the prospect of riding hard to go nowhere far more attractive. While direct-drive trainers — those where you remove the rear wheel of your bike and mount to an axle and cassette on the trainer — have taken the spotlight from the more familiar wheel-mount fluid trainers of the past, those “dumb” trainers can still up the indoor ante. The Boost from Tacx will look familiar to anyone who’s ridden on a trainer in the last few decades with a roller, flywheel, and manually adjusted resistance via a handlebar- mounted toggle. Where things elevate from the boring basement sessions of the past is integration with apps like Zwift, Rouvy, Sufferfest, and others. By tacking on an extra 30 bucks for a “bundle” with Garmin cadence and speed sensors, a rider can use Bluetooth or ANT+ to connect to a device like a tablet or laptop and train alongside others. The two simple sensors are able to approximate wattage, which is how the apps calculate your progress. More sophisticated tests alongside real power meters confirm the algorithms are close, but not quite perfect. If you’re planning to pedal to Zwift racing glory, you probably already own a more expensive trainer, but if you’re looking to stay in shape over the long dark winter and would prefer to spend your hard-earned cash on bike upgrades or plane tickets (one can dream!), the Boost might strike the perfect balance. –AS

Feetures Elite Light Cushion Mini Crew Socks, $18 Cycling socks are a matter of personal preference, but the entry to Feetures — well known in the running world — caught my attention. I’ve run in Feetures for years and given them nary a second thought, which is high praise when it comes to socks. So I pulled on their new cycling model with high expectations and was quickly rewarded. Light cushion (a preference), big sections of open weave for breathability (a preference), and a five-inch cuff (a preference) meant a lot of my preferred boxes were checked before I had a shoe on over them. With right- and left-foot–specific shapes and Feetures’ lack of a toe seam, I found the Elite Lights comfy, kept my shoes fitting true to size, and extremely breathable. In warm conditions, these were some of the most breathable socks I’ve worn, though perhaps a little chilly once the mercury drops. I also ran in these ostensibly cycling-focused shoes and found them entirely capable in that world as well (another preference!). So if you’ve got socks you love, stick with ’em, but if you’re on the hunt for something new and your checklist resembles mine, these Feetures have a lot to offer. –AS

38 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 Velocio Alpha Glove, $119 Riding in cool weather, my constant challenge is staying warm without getting sweaty. Velocio’s Alpha glove has become key to my cool riding kit. Made from eVent stretch softshell with a water-repelling coating, the glove is windproof and water-resistant, but it has no membrane, so my hands can perspire without the gloves trapping moisture. The gloves are lined with a high-pile fleece made from Polartec Alpha, one of the warmest insulations by weight. It’s sewn in a comfortably articulated position with stretchy inserts at the cuff that kept the wind out. The glove is form-fitting but was easy to get on and off when I needed to answer a call or check directions. Rubberized patches on the palm and fingertips were not touchscreen compatible, but they were slip-free on bars, brakes, and shifters with superb dexterity. I wear these gloves nearly every time I ride in cool and cold weather, with or without pogies. Velocio recommends the Alpha glove for use in cold and/or wet weather from 20–45°F. The Alpha glove is unisex, available in XS–XL, and they run true to size. –BB

LOKSAK OPSAK, $9.50–$22.50 Plenty of bicycle tours pass through bear country, but even the smallest, lightest bear barrels are too bulky to carry on a bike tour. Instead, I use LOKSAK’s odor-proof OPSAKs. While they’re not bear-proof, I keep my food, toiletries, and anything else fragrant sealed away inside these zip-top, hermetically sealed bags to dissuade bears from bothering me. The bags look like extra- tough sandwich bags, but they’re a technical piece of gear. When sealed, the reusable OPSAKs are also water-, dust-, and weather-proof. You could even take a sealed OPSAK on a dive; they’re waterproof to 200 feet. In addition to keeping food and toiletry smells contained, I’ve used an OPSAK as a bowl, mixing dehydrated food with boiling water inside before eating it, then sealing the bag and storing the leftovers for later. I’ve also employed OPSAKs for some of the less savory tasks necessitated by desert camping — packing out body waste, which the OPSAK did both leak- and stink-free. Their hermetic seal prevents the re-entry or release of air and micro- organisms, according to LOKSAK. So once it’s sealed and packed away, I forgot it was there. The bags come in two-packs in four sizes from 7 x 7in. to 20 x 28in. –BB

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 39 lectric bikes have burst onto the cycling scene, driving E incredible demand in the past several years the way mountain bikes once did in years past. Between 2019 and 2020, sales grew more than 200 percent, according to Morgan Lommele, director of state and local policy for PeopleForBikes. Lommele said the percentage of growth in sales for eBikes doesn’t even include most online, direct-to- consumer sales. She doesn’t expect the explosive growth to slow down for at least the next few years. PeopleForBikes is a bicycle industry trade association with about 300 bike companies as members, as well as 1.4 million “grassroots supporters,” Lommele said. There’s no mystery to the appeal of eBikes. They turn you into a super

Electric Dirt

Public lands are opening their gates to eBikes, creating opportunities for electrified exploration off-road.

STORY BY DAN D’AMBROSIO

PHOTOS BY SARAH SWALLOW

40 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 cyclist by adding an electric-powered “It’s not a motorcycle, it’s only on August 5, 2019, to Chief Vicki assist to your pedaling. 20 percent assist,” Levisay added. Christiansen of the USDA Forest There was a reference to this “It extends the ability of folks to Service and Secretary David Bernhardt phenomenon in the last story I wrote continue to ride.” of the Department of the Interior. for this magazine, about The Pro’s Lommele explains that there are The detailed letter was intended Closet, based in Boulder, Colorado. three types of eBikes: to correct the record where In that story, The Pro’s Closet Chief Class 1: Bicycles equipped with a PeopleForBikes’ position on using Executive Officer John Levisay said motor that provides assistance only eBikes off-road was concerned, he was riding in the mountains in late when the rider is pedaling, and that Lommele said. September last year, just before the ceases to provide assistance when the “We wrote that letter at that time weather turned cold, when he met a eBike reaches 20 mph. because there were circumstances cyclist coming up the trail while he was Class 2: Bicycles equipped with a where other organizations were going down near Beaver Creek. The throttle-actuated motor that ceases misrepresenting PeopleForBikes’ cyclist was 76 years old and was on his to provide assistance when the eBike intentions,” she said. “We’ve been second loop of the trail. reaches 20 mph. working with agencies informally for a “This was an hour climb, not Class 3: Bicycles equipped with a while around eBikes, encouraging them insignificant,” Levisay said. motor that provides assistance only to make data-driven decisions. We felt Amazed, he asked the elderly cyclist when the rider is pedaling, and that the need to put our formal position on if he did the ride often. ceases to provide assistance when the access in writing.” “He said, ‘I’ve been doing this for 50 eBike reaches 28 mph. The issue of access for eBikes to years, and this eBike has allowed me to These definitions were reiterated the thousands of miles of dirt roads do it again,’” Levisay remembered. in a three-page letter Lommele wrote and singletrack trails on public lands centers on the question of whether they are motorized vehicles. At the time Lommele wrote her letter to the Forest Service Chief and Secretary of the Interior, they were considered “It’s not a motorized vehicles by land managers. “The whole landscape has changed since then,” Lommele said. motorcycle, it’s At the end of August 2019, the Department of the Interior issued an order instructing its four agencies — only 20 percent the National Park Service, the Fish and Wildlife Service, the Bureau of Land Management. and the Bureau of assist. It extends Reclamation — to update their guidelines saying Class 1 eBikes should be defined as bicycles and allowed anywhere the ability of conventional bikes are allowed. “Those four agencies went into folks to continue official rulemaking to change the rules and regulations,” Lommele said. “Those four rules were finalized in to ride.” October 2020. They do very similar things, removing eBikes from whatever definition there is of motor vehicles.” A major win for eBikers everywhere. However, it’s not a blanket allowance, according to Lommele. All three classes of eBikes are defined as bicycles, not motor vehicles, but individual land managers do have Sarah Swallow rides a some leeway in how they deal with Specialized Turbo Creo Class 2 and Class 3 eBikes. SL Expert EVO on the One of the nuances, for example, is Appleton-Whittell Research Ranch, 100 miles south of that Class 2 eBikes can be operated as Tucson in Elgin, Arizona. CONTINUED ON PAGE 49

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 41 Life Member Profile by Kate Whittle

Joelle Buffa and Clyde Morris

Starting with a ‘honeymoon-a-thon’ and never stopping

➺ When Joelle Buffa and Clyde Morris and friends and family sponsored married, they opted for an unusual every mile. honeymoon. For one thing, they Joelle laid out stipulations, telling decided to spend their trip on a long Clyde before they left, “It’s my bike journey. For another, the groom honeymoon, so I’m not going to sleep spent several weeks of the honeymoon on the ground. I’m going to shower without his bride. every night. I’m not going to cook.” Today, the two look back fondly on Clyde, smitten, agreed. The two the undertaking. They were already loaded up their bikes and headed LINDA NOLANDLINDA avid cyclists and birders and shared a to their starting point in Anacortes, love for travel. Clyde had been itching Washington. It snowed on the morning to take on a challenge, but he couldn’t of their first day. swing much time off work from his Joelle quickly figured out this would job at the Environmental Protection not be an idyllic getaway. Agency until after the 1989 earthquake “It was rainy and awful and cold,” “CYCLING AND TOURING that leveled buildings in San Francisco. Joelle said. “And I loved it.” Clyde accumulated enough overtime She joined Clyde for the next three IS SUCH A BIG PART OF while responding to the disaster that he weeks, taking the Northern Tier from earned three months’ vacation. Washington all the way to Havre, OUR LIFE, WHAT BETTER What to do with that much free time? Montana. She reluctantly took the train “The answer was to bicycle across back to San Francisco to go back to WAY TO SHARE IT? SO WE the U.S.,” Clyde said. “And Joelle said, work while Clyde continued on, with ‘That’s crazy.’” a friend joining him for the rest of his SAID, ‘IT’S A NO-BRAINER, Joelle had never even heard of journey. He successfully made it to Bar riding across the country, even though Harbor, Maine, having raised about LET’S HELP ADVENTURE she grew up in a bike-loving family. $3,000, which the couple donated to (She wrote about her dad for a Final rainforest conservation projects in CYCLING EXPAND AND Mile essay in the April 2015 issue of Central America. Adventure Cyclist, “The Rest of the After finishing his cross-country HELP MORE PEOPLE Story.”) Clyde had some experience tour, Clyde returned home to Joelle, with bike overnights and set his sights who was bitten by the bike touring ENJOY THAT PART OF LIFE on cycling from Washington State to bug. She was determined to cross the Maine. Joelle joined him on his training country on her bike, too. LIKE WE HAVE.’” rides, and eventually he convinced her “I was like, this is unfinished to come along for the big trip. business,” she said. They decided to depart shortly after It would be another 20 years before their wedding and dubbed the journey they could both retire and take enough the Honeymoon-A-Thon. Instead of time off to tour to their hearts’ content. setting up a wedding registry, they Since then, they’ve ridden thousands opted to do the ride as a fundraiser, CONTINUED ON PAGE 48

42 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 life membership Funds from the Life Membership program are specially reserved to provide long-term support for Adventure Cycling Association. In the past, these funds have helped us purchase our headquarters building. Currently, they’re helping us support our long-term projects and map digitization. If bicycle travel is an important part of your life, please consider making a lifetime commitment and join our 3,000-plus Adventure Cycling Life Members. To find out more, visitadventurecycling.org/membership or message Cultivation Coordinator Kate Whittle at [email protected]. You can also call our office at 800.755.2453.

Tom Olson, Palm City FL Paul Wood Al Devico Charles Jordan, Vidalia GA & Michelle Wood, Jacksonville FL & Charlie Aron, Borrego Springs CA Katie Birmingham Weigel, Acton MA Scott Rhamy, Glen Allen VA Charles Farr, St Johns FL Thomas Bissmeyer, McKinney TX Michael & Katherine Coughlin, Eugene OR Gregg Reese & Jan Eyer, Morrison CO Stephen Buzzell Rod Burks, Boise ID David & Nina Johnson, Oro Valley AZ & Elizabeth Cooley, Peterborough NH Joseph Phillips, Downers Grove IL Bill & Kathy Brock, Seneca SC Bill Herrington, Green Valley AZ Steven Hankel, Savoy IL Hawk Mendenhall, Austin TX Lynn Kowalski Joan Handler, Warrenton VA John Edmundson, Maplewood MN & Stephanie Wishnev, Las Vegas NV Ray & Kate Charley, Greensburg PA Doug & Susan Dillon, Saint Petersburg FL Larry Davis, Indianapolis IN Theresa Weems, Montgomery AL Rossell & Donna Glasgow, Bowie MD Gerry Gherardini, Lincolnshire IL Kurt Gary, Los Angeles CA May Fan, Sisters OR Mark Herman, Madison WI George Gardner, Newton MA David & Mary Beth Redding, Pasadena CA George Christensen, Countryside IL Buzz Victor, Denver CO David Nordstrom, Colorado Springs CO Julie Brooks, Rochester NY Susan Fridsma, Willard OH Matthew & Pam Emerson, Sylmar CA Gregory Whelan, Peoria AZ Michael Uschold, Newcastle WA Michael Miller, Bozeman MT Keith Boniface, Northfield VT Anthony & Melinda Giordano, Bloomington IN Malcolm Wright, South Salem NY Linda Toelke, Chicago IL Flavia Chen & Vijay Kotecha, Belmont MA Jacques Devaud, Boulder CO Steven Zuckerman Doug Shidell, Minneapolis MN Stephen Spring, Canton OH & Debra Meyerson, Portola Valley CA John Susong, Cuyahoga Falls OH Edward Leibnitz, Brookyn NY Jonathan & Cynthia Pearson, Columbus OH Paul Poletes, Fairfax VA Winnie Homer-Smith, Los Altos CA Warren Zahner, Ellington CT Dick Haymaker, Baton Rouge LA Dennis & Patricia Fregger, Aptos CA Peter Horan, Portland OR Glenn Hoge, Flagstaff AZ Leigh Tacey & Margaret Moran, Kenai AK Wayne Frey, Monticello FL John Diedrich, Wooster OH Joan Bondshu, Modesto CA John Miracle, Spindale NC Corrine Leistikow Bruce Anderson Thomas Timmer, Scottsdale AZ & Eric Troyer, Fairbanks AK & Peggy Bartz, Minneapolis MN Alison Brooks, Madison WI Charles DeVoe, Bend OR Daniel & Judy Clawson, Sudbury MA Jacquie & Roger Rognli, Otsego MN A.S.H. & Charles Blitzer, Durham NH Mark Jenkins, Marblehead MA Jeffrey Du Bois, Sacramento CA William & Cynthia Abbey, Kingston WA Randall Elsner, Sun Prairie WI Peter Hilger, North Oaks MN Andrew Hirsch, W Lafayette IN Walter Roscello, La Plata MD Sarah Gant, Chestnut Hill MA Carol Kaufman, Hutchinson KS Lukas Jeter, Milwaukee WI Roland & Nancy Wentworth, Columbia MD Grace Williams & James York, Mimbres NM Jerry Ross, Peru NY Ann McKinstry-Luepke, Saint Paul MN Michael & Tricia May, Boylston MA Steven & Rosemary Klackle, Greenville MI David Read, Topsfield MA Nathanial & Melanie Watson, Victor MT Bob Rouch, North Platte NE Tim Pfiffner & Ellen Barnes Pfiffner, Dallas TX Michael Lyon, Falls Church VA Judy Behr, New Paltz NY Lon B Petersson, Hastings MN Barb Zaveduk, Chicago IL Bruce & Charlene Cebell, Santa Fe NM Chris Zimmerman, Moline IL Brad Rollans, Fort Worth, TX Jim Cadenhead, Lexington MA Charles Brady, Decatur GA Don Pettit Suzanne Riley, Manistee MI Ed Hahn, Salt Lake City UT & Anne Pettit, Woodinville WA Carl Cornett, Roanoke VA Himanshu Dadarwala, North Wales PA Chris Casebolt, Boulder CO Milt Becknell, Beavercreek OH Marty & Beth Milkovits, Cambridge MA Laurie Mosier, South Riding VA Champe Burnley, Richmond VA Ann McKinstry-Luepke, Saint Paul MN Daryn Swanson, New York NY Michael Kline, Georgetown SC Thomas Falco, Plymouth CT William Medina, Highlands Ranch CO Carey Swanberg, Ronan MT Cyndi Steiner, Annapolis MD Ernst Coumou, Steilacoom WA Judy Secrist, Boise ID George Leavesley, Littleton CO Bruce Gelder, Iowa City IA Mark Davison Paul Vlasveld, San Jose CA Neal Allen, Elk Grove CA & Candace Davison, Port Matilda PA

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ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 47 CONTINUED FROM PAGE 05 CONTINUED FROM PAGE 15 READER LETTERS BACK IN THE SADDLE: WETZEL AND PAINTER CADENCE COINCIDENCES our own long-wheelbase recumbent stabilize the front with a strap that So sorry to hear of the passing of Wally bikes. Keith has 3,500 miles on his kit, locks the handlebars in place, and lift Werner and Mike Dillon (Letter from and Suzanne has 1,000 miles on hers. our 52-pound bikes into the van. The the Director, February 2021). When They work as we had hoped. However, batteries weight about 9.5 pounds you mentioned Mike’s book, Changing if you don’t want to tinker or don’t each. There are rear car racks that are Cadence, it immediately brought have specialized bikes that you prefer, designed to carry heavier bikes. The to mind my book, Shifting Gears. I we would advise going with a factory- added weight is something to keep in thought, what a coincidence that the built eBike. mind if you plan to transport your bike. names were so similar. I ordered his In addition, there are limits on shipping book right away and started reading it TECHNICAL INFORMATION and transporting batteries that vary by the day it arrived. If you’re thinking about an eBike, carrier, so check the airline or Amtrak Right from the preface, the and you’re worried about the range regulations before you buy. similarities were amazing. Our friends’ on a charge or the weight of the bike, and families’ reactions were almost you can look at the literature on CONCLUSION identical to the word as well as our commercial eBikes or read reviews Is an eBike worth it? From the above reason for doing a long bike ride. at electricbikereview.com. This site discussion, there is a lot to take into I laughed at the Desitin-toothpaste typically lists the range, components, account, but our bottom line is that we incident because I had done the same and weight for a given bike. Bosch are able to continue doing what we love thing, only substituting liquid soap for has a range calculator as well — bike touring. lotion. Didn’t understand why my face (bosch-ebike.com/us/service/range- was getting so red. Took me a week to assistant). Keith Wetzel and Suzanne Painter taught in public figure that out. And his lack of training If you’re considering a kit to schools before becoming faculty members at Arizona State University. They ride in Phoenix in the really hit home. That is the “T” word add to your existing bike, there are winter and Oregon in the summer. Their favorite for me. And, yes, we can get in shape many variables to consider. GRIN tours include a self-contained tour from Walden on the road. technologies (ebikes.ca/tools/ to Durango, Colorado, and a bike and boat tour in Talking to my bike was my favorite simulator.html) has a simulator for France and Belgium. pastime. I praised him, encouraged selecting kit components that will him, and felt sorry for him a few allow you to go a certain distance times. He was my best bud on the at a specific speed. It also takes into road. And re-entry is the hardest account the weight (of the rider, CONTINUED FROM PAGE 42 part of a long bike trip. These are bike, and packs), the type of bike, the LIFE MEMBER PROFILE only a few of the dramatically similar elevation gain, and the amount of of miles across the U.S., guided by incidences in our books. assist you will supply. Adventure Cycling maps, and they’re I laughed and I cried reading We found that our kits allowed us excited for more trips to come. Mike’s book and just couldn’t put it a range of about 85 miles with four Clyde and Joelle recently signed up as down until I was finished. Kudos panniers on a route with a 4,500-foot Life Members in the hopes that others to Mike and every other cyclist that summit. Without packs, we have a can be bitten by the bike touring bug. experiences the joys and hardship on range of about 115 miles. “Cycling and touring is such a big the road. I’m just sorry I never met Keith has an eZee kit with an 820Wh part of our life,” Clyde said. “What Mike in person. Everyone should read battery, and Suzanne has an eZee kit better way to share it than to support his book. with a 680Wh battery. Keith’s total your organization? So we said, ‘It’s a no- Al Young | Driggs, Idaho weight of bike, panniers, and rider is brainer, let’s donate some of our spare about 250 pounds, or 40 pounds more cash to help Adventure Cycling expand WE’RE NOT WICKED SMART than Suzanne’s. Yet with the different and help more people enjoy that part of I enjoyed reading about Hung Le’s size batteries, we get about the same life like we have.’” “Trip of a Lifetime” in the Open Road distance on a charge. Gallery in the March 2021 issue. But I Transporting your bikes is another Kate Whittle is Adventure Cycling’s Cultivation cringed to see Worcester misspelled all factor to consider. We bought a Coordinator. three times. There’s no “h,” and it’s minivan a few years ago and have been pronounced WUSS-ter, not WAR- loading our recumbents into the rear chester. (middle seats removed and rear seats Lynne Tolman | Worcester, folded down). We wanted to avoid Massachusetts loading bikes on a roof rack, which was increasingly difficult with aging backs and heavier bikes. When loading the bikes, we remove the batteries,

48 ADVENTURE CYCLIST a pr il 2021 CONTINUED FROM PAGE 16 MOTORING ALONG ice packs overnight to keep leftovers 12,530 miles where the weight of them Though COVID interrupted a planned chilled until lunch. At least until was a problem, and you know there tour through the northern Rockies in Vermont, when she traded the chair for are angels on the road so we could’ve 2020, the couple isn’t planning to hang a second battery. gotten help too,” she said. “The joy of up their eBikes anytime soon (despite “We wanted to ride the Northern zipping along far outweighs the weight a crash last year that left Janet with a Tier but duck into South Dakota of the bike.” broken nose and pelvis). because Stephen had never seen the It’s apparent within seconds of “Last year we had to cancel a Badlands or Mt. Rushmore,” she said. speaking with Janet that she’s an planned tour with seven other people “We wanted to be able to relax about unabashed evangelist for e-assisted bike to Montana to ride Glacier-Waterton getting back home before snow was in travel, a role she’s also relished as the and loop back around. Next year it will the mountains, and a second battery ride coordinator for her local cycling be bigger, up to Jasper and Banff and meant we could stay in ‘sport’ or ‘tour’ club in Poulsbo, Washington. Lake Louise. And while we were in mode instead of ‘eco.’ Now, no matter if “It’s a whole different paradigm — Maine, we were talking to people about we’re just riding near home, we usually the first eBikes that came out weren’t Québec and Nova Scotia, so that all carry the second battery.” great,” she said, noting that “serious” sounds great too,” she said. Even riding with four bags, a small cyclists were left wanting more from “I’d love to do the TransAmerica cooler, and an extra battery, Janet could early iterations. “But once they saw Trail again. I would do any of it again think of only two instances when the me get the bike, it was like, ‘Well, if — I just love America and love being extra heft of electric assist proved a Janet has a bike … ’ and now our club out there.” challenge: staircases on both ends of has some rides with more eBikes the continent, one in New Jersey and than regular. People have to do it in Alex Strickland is the Editor-in-Chief of Adventure one infamous set to access a trail at their own time. Whenever I’m around Cyclist. Cascade Locks, Oregon. someone who’s wondering [about “There were just two situations in eBikes], I get them on my bike to try it.”

CONTINUED FROM PAGE 41 EBIKES: D’AMBROSIO long as you’re not using the throttle for eBikes can be managed similarly One step forward, one step back. “an extended time.” to traditional bikes. A lot more is Progress comes in fits and starts, but “It’s vague and hard to enforce,” happening on the state level.” Lommele is optimistic that more and Lommele said. The Indiana Department of Natural more state park agencies will allow Unlike the Department of the Resources, for example, recently pilot programs for eBikes or just go Interior, the Forest Service has not announced a pilot project to allow Class ahead and take the step of classifying taken the plunge into classifying 1 eBikes on its dirt roads and trails. at least Class 1 eBikes as non- eBikes as bicycles rather than Not everyone, however, is happy motorized vehicles. motorized vehicles. The Forest Service about the inroads eBikes are making Lommele points to Jefferson still bans eBikes from non-motorized off-road. Environmental groups, in fact, County, Colorado, where state land trails. Yet, Lommele describes the are not happy at all. managers oversee 300 trails used by Forest Service as being “in limbo” “There is resistance in the 7 million users annually. In 2017, she where eBikes are concerned. environmental community to opening said, they did a pilot project allowing The agency is considering creating up non-motorized trails to eBikes,” eBikes on trails and got 15 or 20 “major a new type of trail designation open Lommele said. “The fear of change is a complaints.” Some took that as a reason to eBikes only. Trails could further be potential risk to non-motorized access to stop the pilot. It did not stop. specified to be open only to certain in the future. There’s lots of tension.” Today in Jefferson County, Class 1 classes of eBikes. National Scenic Trails, In the summer of 2019, the forest eBikes are allowed on “natural surface however, are strictly off-limits to eBikes supervisor in Tahoe National Forest trails” within the parks. Class 1 and under current policy. authorized Class 1 eBikes to go Class 2 eBikes are allowed on paved “I don’t know how it will shake out,” anywhere bicycles were allowed, trails within the parks. Lommele said. Lommele said. “I think no matter what you do, any Lommele is more optimistic where “Eventually they were sued for that time there could be someone [who is] state agencies are concerned. All 50 states decision by environmental groups,” not happy about it,” Lommele said. “A have state park agencies, which oversee she said. “A judge issued an injunction lot falls on land managers and how they thousands of miles of off-road riding. on opening up the trails. They had choose to interpret potential risks.” “State agencies are much more to close them to Class 1 eBikes and nimble,” Lommele said. “I think in provide information that they weren’t Dan D’Ambrosio is a contributing writer for response to demand, they’re realizing allowed anymore.” Adventure Cyclist.

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 49 Companions Wanted Providing partners for tours, domestic and abroad, since 1978

PARTIAL SOUTHERN TIER I am a 70-year-old TRANSAM I’m Missy, 27, looking for a companion IRELAND I’m taking a four-week trip along married male who is an experienced cyclist that to ride the TransAm east to west May/June. I’m the rugged western coast and outlying islands has done several cross-country tours. I’m at the a recently furloughed flight attendant trying to of Ireland and Northern Ireland in June to July. planning stage of a tour starting in mid-April take advantage of my career break. I’m an avid I’d like to have another sociable, adventurous that would run from Santa Fe, New Mexico, to St. cyclist and have wanted to do this since college, cyclist over 35 join me for the most enjoyable Augustine, Florida, mostly along the Southern but I am a bit of a touring novice. I love to camp, bicycle touring in Europe. 40–50 miles a day. Tier. I say at the planning stages because the trip is hike, and bike so I plan to camp and stay at cheap B&B overnights. Sporadic daily rain, pleasantly pending on me getting the COVID vaccine and the inns. I would like to average around 75 miles a day cool temps, and occasional rays of sunshine. national COVID restrictions easing somewhat in or more. I am open to male or female partners. [email protected] the spring. I would like to average about 70 miles [email protected] a day, mostly camping out. I don’t cook meals but LOCAL RIDING PARTNER I’m a 56-year-old tend to pick up food along the way. It would be fun EUROVELO 6 AND 7 Planning to ride the man, experienced with local tours. I’m retired to share all or part of the route. [email protected] EuroVelo 7 from Copenhagen to Linz and then now and would like to find a like-minded man the EuroVelo 6 from Linz to Budapest with a or men that like to tour local on short trips GREAT DIVIDE I’m planning on riding the friend of mine from Wisconsin starting around while preparing for long-distance touring. An GDMBR from either Jasper or Banff to Mexico. August 19 (COVID permitting). The plan now is ideal riding partner would be a retired guy with Start late July/early August and finish by mid- to ride the approximately 1,200 miles at a pace flexible time. I like camping or motels and will October. Looking for fellow riders for all or some that allows for sightseeing in Denmark, Germany, use either when touring. I live in Skagit County, of the adventure. If we take one day off each week, Czechia, Austria, and Hungary (6–8 weeks). Washington, and would consider developing we would need to average 47 miles per day. I’m not Camping and staying in budget accommodations. a riding friendship with anyone within a day’s looking to tear it up, but rather survive and enjoy Both of us are recently retired fit male seniors drive. I enjoy both paved and gravel touring the trip. [email protected] with experience in long-distance touring. We and love to use rail trails whenever possible. would welcome the camaraderie and sharing of [email protected] GDMBR I’m a middle-aged male experienced expenses. [email protected] cyclist looking for fun companions to join me on COAST RIDES AND MINI-TOURS I’m a retired this ride to complete in 6–8 weeks at an enjoyable GREAT DIVIDE PAVED Looking for riders female, a fit 61, riding regularly in the greater pace with occasional rest days in cool places. All interested in riding north from New Mexico to Los Angeles area, inland and along the coast. ages, M or F, welcome. Open to departure dates Montana along the paved route described by Looking for riding partners — road, trail, or both. from Jasper or Banff, but would like to arrive in David Plaskett in his book Great Divide Road My day rides are usually 20–40 miles depending New Mexico late enough to avoid desert heat! Bike Route starting in mid-May and arriving on terrain and time available. Later this spring/ [email protected] in Montana in mid-July. I am a 66-year-old summer, I’d like to start bike touring up/down experienced rider, riding 40–70 miles a day, the coast, 2–5 days to start, mix of motels and CALIFORNIA TO NEW JERSEY I’m a 29-year- camping perhaps or Warmshowers and motels camping, 25–50 miles/day, relaxed, take in the old female taking a job hiatus. Looking for one along the way. Ride with me for any or all of it — I scenery along the way vibe. I did Pacific Coast or two companions, preferably female. Planning love meeting new people and making meaningful South late 2019 so have good experience and on a “smell the roses” pace, average 40–50 miles friendships. I’m relatively flexible on timing logistics under my belt. [email protected] per day. Possibly more as I gain my touring legs. and route so reach out if this sounds of interest. Credit card touring, wanting to stay at motels and [email protected] Adventure Cycling Association assumes, but dining out with sporadic camping when necessary. cannot verify, that the persons above are truthfully I am an experienced backpacker, avid hiker, and TRANSAM WESTBOUND Starting April representing themselves. Ads are free to Adventure a weekend warrior when it comes to cycling. 15 at Richmond, Virginia, to San Francisco, Cycling members. You can see more ads and post Looking to start late April/early May. Not afraid approximately three months. I’m 65 and a good them at adventurecycling.org/adventure-cyclist/ to pause or start a bit later, weather depending. wrench. Will do 10 mph and the proverbial 50 companions-wanted or send them to Adventure [email protected] miles a day. [email protected] Cyclist, P.O. Box 8308, Missoula, MT 59807. Open Road Gallery

No. 5258

Changing Course

PHOTOGRAPH BY MAXTON CAPLANIDES STORY BY GAGE POORE

➺JOHNNIE ROY, A 66-YEAR-OLD RETIRED EMERGENCY ROOM NURSE FROM ARIZONA, reached Adventure Cycling headquarters on July 5, 2019, during his planned trip from Mexico to Canada. Starting in Douglas, Arizona, Roy had planned to get on the Great Divide Mountain Bike Route after arriving in Silver City, New Mexico. “I realized quickly that I’d started a bit early in the season, related to rain, adobe mud, and some snow-blocked passes,” Roy wrote. It forced him to make some detours on pavement, stating that “Brazos Ridge was peanut butter with a deep snow base.” He also said he “missed the Indiana and Marshall passes per the U.S. Forest Service stating they were impassible.” “It was off and on this way until having catastrophic rear wheel failure just before Atlantic City, Wyoming, in the Great Basin,” he wrote. This prompted Roy to hitch a ride to Lander where Gannett Peak Sports was able to replace the busted wheel. At this point in the trip, miles from the GDMBR, Roy made the decision to continue north along the TransAmerica Trail. “I changed direction and rode that segment to Adventure Cycling headquarters in Missoula, then connected with the Northern Tier to Anacortes, Washington.” From there, Roy toured around the San Juan Islands before returning to Tucson via Amtrak in August. “It was monumental,” he wrote, “and I’m starting again this year from Portland to try for a north-to-south GDMBR attempt back to Tucson. Hope to see y’all soon.”

From Adventure Cycling’s National Bicycle Touring Portrait Collection. © 2021 Adventure Cycling Association.

See more portraits at adventurecycling.org/gspg

ADVENTURECYCLING.ORG/MEMBERS 51 Non-profit Adventure Cycling Association U.S. POSTAGE P.O. Box 8308 PAID Missoula, Montana 59807-8308 Adventure Cycling Association

America’s Bicycle Travel Community maps tours gear resources Questions?· 800.755.2453· · www.adventurecycling.org

Adventure Cycling 2021 Tours Come experience some of the best cycling of the Southeast! Traveling along the scenic Natchez Trace Parkway and visiting Your historic towns like Ridgeland, Natchez, Port Gibson, and Vicksburg, we’ll soak up the scenes of Spanish moss–draped trees and enjoy catered meals that reflect the best of this region’s culinary Adventure tradition. And as one of our eBike-friendly tours, this eight-day tour is within anyone’s reach! Awaits Join us October 17–24, 2021.

Visit adventurecycling.org/guidedtours to register today!