Accidentes De Escalada En Norteamérica 2020

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Accidentes De Escalada En Norteamérica 2020 ACCIDENTES DE ESCALADA EN NORTEAMÉRICA 2020 AVALANCHAS Y ESCALADORES DE HIELO NIAD RENDIMIENTO LEGENDARIO, REINVENTADO. POSIBILIDADES INFINITAS ADIDAS.COM/FIVETEN CHELSEA RUDE : ADIDAS 5.10 ATHLETE CHELSEA RUDE ©2021 adidas AG 1425754_CAM_Print_NAM_ANACSpanishAd_SS21.indd 1 25/02/21 9:07 AM TABLA DE CONTENIDOS 4 Introducción ARTÍCULOS 8 Nunca dejes de aprender: avalanchas 53 Imprescindibles: caída de rayos 62 Imprescindibles: botiquín de primeros auxilios ACCIDENTES & ANÁLISIS 10 EE. UU. 100 Canadá 107 México TABLAS DE LOS DATOS 108 Tablas Foto de portada: Un escape milagroso en Polar Circus en Alberta, Canadá. Foto de Alex Ratson. © 2021 The American Alpine Club Todos los derechos reservados. Ninguna sección de esta publicación podrá ser reproducida o transmitida en ninguna presentación ni de ninguna manera sin el permiso de la editorial. Publicado por American Alpine Club, 710 Tenth Street, Suite 100, Golden, CO, 80401, USA. ¡ADVERTENCIA! Las actividades descritas en Accidentes de Escalada en Norteamérica (Accidents in North American Climbing o ANAC) conllevan un riesgo significativo de lesiones o muerte. Los dueños, equipo, colabo- radores y voluntarios creadores de esta publicación recomiendan no participar en actividades como éstas a menos que usted sea un experto, haya obtenido una capacitación inducida por un profesional calificado, sea conocedor de los riesgos que conllevan y esté dispuesto a asumir la responsabilidad personal de todos los riesgos asociados con estas actividades. ANAC y su editorial, american alpine club, no proveen garantías, expresadas o implícitas, de ningún tipo en relación con el contenido de esta publicación y expresamente niega toda garantía referente a la exactitud o fiabilidad de la información contenida en este documento. American Alpine Club declina toda responsabilidad de lesiones o muerte ocasionada a cualquier persona que participe en estas actividades. No dependa de la información contenida en este documento para su seguridad personal o para determinar prudencia para intentar una escalada, ruta o actividades descritas en este documento. INTRODUCCIÓN Bienvenido a la inauguración de la edición en español de Accidents in North American Climbing (Accidentes de escalada en Norteamérica). Desde 1949, American Alpine Club ha publicado este libro anualmente. Nuestro objetivo es ayudar a que nuestros lectores escalen de manera más segura, es por eso que compartimos historias y lecciones de accidentes de escalada en todo Norteamérica. Hoy, con esta traducción hecha por primera vez del libro de Accidentes, buscamos compartir estas lecciones con escaladores de habla hispana en todo el mundo. Los reportes en este libro documentan y analizan accidentes de escalada técnica y de esquí de montaña que ocurrieron durante el 2019. No incluimos todos los acci- dentes de escalada, no obstante, intentamos reportar los incidentes más educativos. (Las “Tablas” en la parte trasera de este documento brindan información básica de más accidentes). La traducción al español es un poco más corta que el libro en Inglés. Sin embargo, todos los reportes que hemos publicado en inglés se pueden encontrar en publications.americanalpineclub.org. La edición en español de Accidents in North American Climbing fue traducida por un equipo muy dedicado de voluntarios de tres países, con Omar Gaytán como director del proyecto. Sus nombres están enlistados a continuación. ¡Sin ellos, esto no habría sido posible! Nuestros traductores utilizaron los términos y frases de escalada que se escu- chan más frecuentemente en México. En el futuro, planeamos incluir un glosario de términos de escalada empleados en varios países de habla hispana. Adidas Outdoor patrocina generosamente Accidents in North American Climbing en español. Estamos muy agradecidos con adidas por apoyar la educación de esca- ladores en todo el mundo. Favor de compartir este libro con amigos, cordadas y organizaciones de escalada. Las correcciones, sugerencias y solicitudes para enviarnos reportes de accidentes en México, Estados Unidos y Canadá con bienvenidas. Usted puede ponerse en contacto con nosotros por medio del correo [email protected]. Le deseamos una escalada segura y feliz. — Dougald MacDonald, editor Los Voluntarios Omar Gaytán, director Bernardo Beteta Tiffany Hensley Symon Ardila Néstor Y. Durán Nungaray Molly Herber Austen Bernier Alma Esteban Jasna Hodzic WATERPROOF WATER WATER BREATHABILITY BREATHABLE RESISTANT REPELLENT ALL AROUND WATERPROOF WATER WATER BREATHABILITY BREATHABLE RESISTANT REPELLENT WARMTH ALLTHER AROUMNADL RELIABLE INSULATED WINDPROOF MANAGEMENT WARMTH WARMTH THERMAL RELIABLE INSULATED WINDPROOF MANAGEMENT WARMTH MOISTURE ODOR PERSISTENT PILING COMFORT MANAGEMENT CONTROL BEADING RESISTANT FIT MOISTURE ODOR PERSISTENT PILING COMFORT MANAGEMENT CONTROL BEADING RESIRUGSGTEDANNTESS FFIORT M SEAMLESS SOFT STRETCH FITTING WATERPROOF WATER WATER BREATHABILITY BREATHABLE RESISTANT REPELLENT ALL AROUND FORM RUGGEDNESS SEAMLESS SOFTACTTILE STPREACTKCAHBLE DURABLE LOW QUIET FITTING WEIGHT WARMTH THERMAL RELIABLE INSULATED WINDPROOF MANAGEMENT WARMTH TACTILE PACKABLE DURABLE LOW QUIET WEIGHT MOISTURE ODOR PERSISTENT PILING COMFORT MANAGEMENT CONTROL BEADING RESISTANT FIT RUGGEDNESS FORM SEAMLESS SOFT STRETCH FITTING L IA ER X Y E E AT L T N A OG TACTILE PACKABLE DURABLE LOW QUIET M IA R L R RE- B O WEIGHT E ER N AT GO H OUT M MEMEC R T NNE I 0709_Ad_GTX_Pro_ACC_6x9inch.indd 1 09.07.20 18:59 Nunca dejes de aprender ESCALADORES DE HIELO Y AVALANCHAS Es hora de tomar este riesgo con más seriedad POR GRANT STATHAM ada invierno, escaladores de hielo quedan atrapados y a veces encuen- Ctran la muerte por culpa de las avalanchas. Hasta las avalanchas pequeñas pueden ser fatales cuando son canalizadas en barrancos estrechos donde se forman las escaladas de hielo. Así que es esencial que uno entienda las condi- ciones relevantes a las avalanchas y que traiga aparato de búsqueda de vícti- mas de avalancha en muchas escaladas. A pesar de esta realidad, los escaladores han demorado en aceptar estas prácti- cas básicas de seguridad de avalancha, aunque utilizan aparato de búsqueda cuando esquían fuera de pista. Esta contradicción no tiene sentido y ya es hora de cambiar este paradigma. Una vez que has determinado que una ruta de hielo se ha formado, tu próximo paso debe ser informarte si la ruta está amenazada por avalanchas. Cualquier ladera empinada de nieve—sea en el acceso, en la ruta, encima de la ruta, o en el descenso— tiene el potencial de desencadenar una avalancha. Si la ruta está amenazada por avalancha, tienes que saber más. ¿Está ubicada debajo de un barranco con posible comienzo de avalancha? ¿Atravesarás laderas de nieve ubicadas sobre acantilados? ¿Caminarás por debajo de caminos de avalanchas o estarás pateando escalones en una ladera de 40° para alcanzar la base? ¿Qué tan difícil es la ruta? ¿Puedes escalar rápidamente o estarás expuesto a las avalanchas por horas? ¿Qué dice el pronóstico de avalanchas local? Tienes que contestar todas estas preguntas antes de ir a escalar. RIESGO DE AVALANCHAS El riesgo de avalanchas en la escalada de hielo tiene tres ingredientes principa- les: 1) nieve suficiente para producir una avalancha, 2) terreno propenso a produ- cir una avalancha, y 3) escaladores expuestos a este peligro. Al quitar cualquiera de estos tres elementos se eliminará el riesgo de avalanchas. Nieve Terreno Pero mientras la eliminación del riesgo de avalanchas promete la seguridad, no te ayuda subir las RIESGO DE rutas en tu lista que están sujetas AVALANCHAS al peligro de avalanchas. Para esto tendrás que gestionar el riesgo al Gente evaluar sus elementos individuales y entender como les afectan a ti y tu compañero/a. 6 / ACCIDENTES 2020 NIEVE El mejor indicador de nieve ines- table es la actividad de avalan- chas. Ambas avalanchas de placa y avalanchas de nieve reciente son amenazas para los esca- ladores de hielo porque no se necesita mucho esfuerzo para hacerlos caer y las consecuen- cias de una caída son graves. Si hay avalanchas cerca de tu ruta, se puede presumir que la nieve en tu ruta también es inestable. Existen tres factores importan- tes a considerar: (1) Precipitación - nieve nueva y especialmente la lluvia pueden sobrecargar el manto de nieve. (2) Viento - puede mover la nieve 10 veces por encima de la tasa de caída de nieve normal y crear slabs locales profundos. (3) Temperatura - tendencias de calentamiento, inversiones, y temperaturas sobre 0°C (32°F) producen avalanchas. TERRENO Escalador debajo de una ruta de hielo en Santaquin Canyon, Utah, después de haber escapado várias avalan- Se puede minimizar la exposición chas durante un día cálido de febrero. Se pueden ver los al situar las estaciones de seguro escombros de las avalanchas. Brian Crozier fuera de terrenos de avalanchas o en lugares protegidos, moverse juntos cuando sea posible, moverse uno por uno cuando sea necesario, asegurar las travesías de laderas expuestas, y no pasar ningún momento innecesariamente expuestos a las avalanchas. Estas son las estrategias que mantienen vivos a los escaladores experimentados. Algunos puntos básicos para la gestión del terreno que se deben recordar son: (1) Ángulo de ladera - el ángulo ideal para avalanchas de placa es 30° a 45°. (2) Aspecto - hay grandes diferencias entre rutas sombreadas y rutas soleadas. (3) Elevación - la profundidad del manto aumenta con la elevación, así que hay que estar conscientes de las condiciones en la cima. (4) Trampas del terreno – las escaladas de hielo se encuentran a menudo
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