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SSEF FACETTE No. 14 SWISS GEMMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE SCHWEIZERISCHES GEMMOLOGISCHES INSTITUT INSTITUT SUISSE DE GEMMOLOGIE International Issue No.14, January 2007

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SSEF FACETTE No. 14 SWISS GEMMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE SCHWEIZERISCHES GEMMOLOGISCHES INSTITUT INSTITUT SUISSE DE GEMMOLOGIE International Issue No.14, January 2007 SSEF FACETTE No. 14 SWISS GEMMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE SCHWEIZERISCHES GEMMOLOGISCHES INSTITUT INSTITUT SUISSE DE GEMMOLOGIE International Issue No.14, January 2007 Reproduction permitted with reference to the SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute The Graff Ruby of 8.62 carats with SSEF gemstone report sold at Christie’s St. Moritz 15 February 2006 for SFr. 4,724,000 / US$ 3,637,480 Image Courtesy of Graff Diamonds In this issue: - Small Diamonds - Gemstones from Tanzania - “Chocolate Pearls” - Origin Determination of “Paraiba Tourmalines” - SSEF Courses 2007 - SSEF Alumni Association - Shaping the Future of SSEF - News from CIBJO and LMHC Editorial The SSEF Foundation council has appointed Dr. Dear Reader Michael Krzemnicki as deputy director. It is clear from this nomination that Michael Krzemnicki will be my successor as director and head of the SSEF I am sorry to have to inform all the French and Ger- laboratory in three years from now. Until then I will man-speaking friends of Facette that, for reasons strive to keep the SSEF laboratory on a steady of time, we are no longer able to publish our house course and steer it towards secure havens, starting magazine in three languages. From now on, there- now in the New Year. fore, it will appear in English only. For some time I would like to take this opportunity to extend to you now we, in the laboratory, have been afforded no all my best wishes for your personal happiness, time for literary composition at the end of the year. health and success in 2007. Editing Facette demands an additional effort from the team besides all the other work in hand. We will Sincerely, continue to mail you the SSEF Facette and hope that you will still be able to put its contents to good Prof. Dr. H. A. Hänni, use. The past year has Director of the Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF been characterized by con- solidation: two of our staff have turned into valuable specialists. Pierre Lefèvre Chers Lecteurs has become an all-round gemmologist and Corinne Je suis désolé d’informer nos amis de la facette Grass has found that she SSEF de langue française et allemande que faute is most comfortable with de temps, nous ne sommes plus en mesure de secretarial work. With our publier notre magazine dans les trois langues. experienced staff we have had a very successful Désormais, elle n’apparaîtra qu’en anglais. Depuis year. From January our team will include Sabine quelques temps, nous n’avons plus suffisamment Häberli, FGA and art historian. After completing de temps pour des compositions littéraires en fin her doctoral thesis she will perfect her skills as a d’année. L’édition de la facette demande à toute generalist in gemmological crafts. l’équipe des efforts supplémentaires en dehors des A glance at the auction catalogues shows that the travaux de laboratoire. Nous continuerons à vous SSEF has been called to examine and certify the adresser la Facette et espérons que vous en ferez vast majority of important pieces of jewellery on bon usage. offer. Our task is to examine and describe in detail L’année passée a été caractérisée par la consolida- the most beautiful natural pearls, large rubies, tion : deux membres de notre équipes se sont bien sapphires and emeralds and magnificent coloured spécialisés. Pierre Lefèvre est devenu un gemmo- diamonds. Our certificates provide the trade with logue complet et Corinne Grass nous a prouvé security and give customers the proof and confi- qu’elle était une secrétaire efficace. Grâce a cette dence they need in the jewellery. Our latest activ- équipe expérimentée, nous avons réussi une très ity, namely the quality testing of small diamonds bonne année. Depuis Janvier, Sabine Häberli, FGA for the Swiss watch industry, goes to prove that et historienne de l’art a rejoint notre équipe. Dès the examination of large stones is not our only ma- qu’elle aura terminé son doctorat, elle perfection- jor concern. The majority of stones in this category nera ses connaissances en gemmologie de labora- are between 1 and 2 millimetres in size. toire. SSEF was again active in research this year. Un coup d’œil rapide aux catalogues des ventes “Chocolate” pearls were examined to determine aux enchères montre que la SSEF a été appelée the origin of their colour. The origin features of pour certifier la grande majorité des pièces impor- Paraiba coloured tourmalines were investigated tantes. Notre tâche est d’examiner et de décrire using highly sensitive mass spectrometry. Dia- les plus belles perles fines, les plus grands rubis, mond research was conducted in the area of saphirs et émeraudes et les diamants de couleur HPHT certification, with the added assistance of les plus magnifiques. Nos certificats fournissent photoluminescence spectra. sécurité au marché et donnent aux consomma- A large number of specialists enrolled for, and teurs finaux certitude et confiance en la joaillerie. again benefited from, the SSEF courses, either Notre dernière activité, le contrôle qualité de petits as part of their personal gemmological education diamants, montre que nous ne sommes pas unique- or in a company training scheme. Companies and ment sur le marché des grandes pierres. La major- associations also continue to book training pack- ité des pierres de cette dernière catégorie ont un ages and SSEF experts travel to various towns diamètre de 1 à 2 mm, elles sont destinées à être and cities to deliver them. page 2 SSEF Facette No. 14, © 2007 Editorial (deutsch/français) montées en joaillerie et en horlogerie de luxe. Ein Blick in die Auktionskataloge zeigt, dass bei Cette année, la SSEF a été à nouveau active au SSEF die wichtigsten Schmuckstücke zertifiziert niveau recherche. Les perles de culture ‘chocolat’ werden. Die schönsten echten Perlen, grosse ont été examinées pour déterminer l’origine de Rubine, Saphire und Smaragde sowie prächtige leur coloration. Les caractéristiques de l’origine Farbdiamanten werden bei uns gründlich unter- géographique des tourmalines ‘Paraiba’ ont été sucht und beschrieben. Die Zertifikate geben dem examinées par des mesures à haute sensibilité en Handel Sicherheit und dem Kunden Vertrauen in spectrométrie de masse. Pour les diamants, des die Juwelen. Dass wir aber nicht nur grosse Klun- recherches de plus en plus fines ont été poursuivies ker untersuchen, zeigt unsere neue Aktivität in der en photoluminescence pour conserver une longueur Qualitätsprüfung von Kleindiamanten. Die meisten d’avance sur le terrain de la détection des traite- Steine dieser Kategorie sind zwischen 1 und 2 mm ments HPHT. gross und werden später in Schmuckuhren gefasst. Un grand nombre de spécialistes se sont inscrit et Die Forschung bei SSEF war auch in diesem Jahr ont suivis les cours de la SSEF, soit à titre person- wieder aktiv. Braune Zuchtperlen (sog. Chocolate nel soit dans le cadre d’une formation d’entreprise. pearls) wurden auf ihre Farbursache hin unter- Des entreprises et des associations continuent de sucht. Die Herkunftsmerkmale von Paraiba-farbigen réserver des cours globaux et les experts de la Turmalinen wurde mit der hochempfindlichen Mas- SSEF voyagent de ville en ville pour délivrer leurs senspektrometrie gemessen. Die Diamantforschung connaissances. spielte sich im Bereich des HPHT-Nachweises ab, Le conseil de fondation a nommé le Dr. Michael Photolumieszenzspektren helfen weiter. Krzemnicki sous-directeur. Il est claire que Michael Von den SSEF-Kursen konnten wieder zahlreiche Krzemnicki me succèdera au poste de directeur à Teilnehmer profitieren, sei es im Rahmen ihrer la tête du laboratoire SSEF d’ici trois ans. D’ici là je persönlicher gemmologischen Ausbildung oder in m’efforcerai de maintenir le laboratoire SSEF dans einem Firmenkurs. Immer wieder buchen auch Ges- un rythme effréné et de le guider vers les havres ellschaften oder Verbände ein Ausbildungspaket, sûrs, à commencer par cette nouvelle année. und ein SSEF Experte begibt sich in die betreffende Je souhaite prendre l’occasion de vous adresser Stadt, um den Kurs abzuhalten. mes meilleurs vœux pour votre bonheur personnel, Der Stiftungsrat SSEF hat Dr. Michael S. Krzem- santé et succès pour 2007. nicki zum Vize-Direktor ernannt. Damit ist klar, dass Dr. Krzemnicki in drei Jahren meine Nachfolge Sincèrement, als Direktor und Leiter des SSEF Labors antreten Prof. Dr. H.A. Hänni, Director, SSEF wird. Bis dann werde ich noch mein Bestes geben, das SSEF-Labor auf Kurs zu halten und in eine sichere Zukunft zu lenken. Diese beginnt nun mit Liebe Leser dem Neuen Jahr 2007, zu dem ich Ihnen alles Gute wünsche. Mit Bedauern teile ich all den französischsprachigen und deutschsprachigen Freunden der Factte mit, Prof. Dr. H.A. Hänni, Direktor SSEF dass wir es aus Zeitgründen nicht mehr schaffen, unser Hausblatt dreisprachig heraus zu geben. Sie wird also fortan allein in englischer Sprache er- SSEF membership fee: scheinen. Schon lange ist das Jahresende im Labor nicht mehr eine Zeit mit Raum zum Dichten. Das Dear SSEF Client Schreiben der Facette verlangt vom Team einen zusätzlichen Einsatz neben all den anstehenden Ar- Do you already know that the SSEF Membership beiten. Wir werden Ihnen die SSEF-Facette weiter fee is due on February 28, and a reduction of ap- zusenden und hoffen, dass Sie aus den Informatio- prox. 20-30% on the normal tariff list is granted to nen trotzdem guten Nutzen ziehen können. registered members only? Das vergangene Jahr war durch Konsolidierung gekennzeichnet: zwei neue Mitarbeiter wurden in wertvolle Spezialisten verwandelt. Pierre Lefèvre ist Allround-Gemmologe geworden und Corinne Impressum: Grass kennt sich nun bestens aus in den Sekretari- Annual SSEF publication by: atsarbeiten. Zusammen konnten wir 2006 ein sehr SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute erfolgreiches Jahr erleben. Ab Januar 2007 wird Falknerstrasse 9 Frau Sabine Häberli, FGA und Kunsthistorikerin CH-4051 Basel neu unser Team ergänzen. Nach Abschluss ihrer Switzerland Doktorarbeit wird sie als Generalistin das gemmolo- tel.
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