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Photographs included in the original manuscript have been reproduced xerographically in this copy. Higher quality 6” x 9” black and white photographic prints are available for any photographs or illustrations appearing in this copy for an additional charge. Contact UMI directly to order. ProQuest Information and Learning 300 North Zeeb Road, Ann Arbor, Ml 48106-1346 USA 800-521-0600 Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. IDENTITY, CONSUMPTION, AND FREQUENCY OF BEHAVIOR AMONG CONTEMPORY NEEDLEWORKERS DISSERTATION Presented in Partial Fulfillment of the Requirements for The Degree Doctor of Philosophy in the Graduate School of The Ohio State University By Catherine Amoroso Leslie, M.S. The Ohio State University 2002 Dissertation Committee: Approved by Professor Sharron J. Lennon, PhD, Co-Adviser Assistant Professor Leslie Stoel, PhD, Co-Adviser (JL^Ccc Co-Advisers Associate Professor David Stebenne, PhD College of Human Ecology Gayle Strege, M.A. Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. UMI Number: 3049068 Copyright 2002 by Leslie, Catherine Amoroso All rights reserved. _ ___ _ ® UMI UMI Microform 3049068 Copyright 2002 by ProQuest Information and Learning Company. All rights reserved. This microform edition is protected against unauthorized copying under Title 17, United States Code. ProQuest Information and Learning Company 300 North Zeeb Road P.O. Box 1346 Ann Arbor, Ml 48106-1346 Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. Copyright by Catherine Amoroso Leslie 2002 Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. ABSTRACT Needlework is an important part o f women’s culture, however it is not well represented in the literature. Recent studies have suggested a link between needlework and identity, but the subject has not been explored with a quantitative paradigm. Using a combination of identity and social identity theories as a theoretical framework, this research reveals links between identity, consumption o f products, and leisure activities. Individuals carry their identities into every situation they encounter. Identity links individual behavior and the larger social structure and aids in predicting behavior. There are many identities included in the self, but they do not all carry equal influence, rather they are arranged in a hierarchy (Stryker, 1968). The position an identity holds in one’s hierarchy is measured in terms of salience and commitment. Identity salience is an individual’s commitment to a specific role and identity commitment is the degree to which people believe that their relationships to others are dependent on fulfilling a specific role. Using survey methodology, 222 respondents (97% women) completed questionnaires designed to assess needleworker identity, consumption of needlework supplies and equipment, and frequency of needlework activity. Respondents had experience with the products and programs of Erica Wilson, “America’s First Lady of Needlework.” Wilson’s long career has included classes and workshops, 25 books, ii Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. design and production of kits, a television series, numerous magazine and newspaper articles, and successful operation of two needlework shops. This study extends knowledge of identity by demonstrating a link between individual identity (salience) and frequency of individual behavior and social identity (commitment) and frequency of social behavior. The exteasiveness of identity-related social connections and reflected appraisals of identity-related products were significant predictors of the strength of identity commitment. Furthermore, the extent of media connections significantly predicts identity salience. Different from other leisure activities such as aerobics or tennis where products are necessary for participation, but are not directly expended in performance, the activity of needlework requires the consumption of thread, needles, and other materials to create a new product. This research supports the premise that one's connections with media are directly related to the extensiveness of identity-related possessions. The extent of exposure to needlework-related media accounted for one-half of the variance in needlework-related possessions. A positive relationship between reflected appraisals of products and identity commitment supports the premise that the relationship between identity and possessions is mediated by esteem. Implications from this study are pertinent for identity theorists, clothing and textile scholars, and the needlework industry. The model’s ability to significantly predict both identity salience and identity commitment adds to our knowledge of the factors influencing the strength of identity. Suggestions for further research on relationships between identity, consumption, and frequency of behavior are included. Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. Dedicated to my mentor, Carole J. Makela, PhD of Colorado State University. iv Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Anyone who has gone through a journey of this kind knows they did not travel alone. I wish to thank my committee: Co-Advisors, Sharron J. Lennon, PhD and Leslie Stoel, PhD who taught me the skills o f good research; David Stebenne, PhD who never doubted that needlework was part o f history; and Gayle Strege, M.A. who listened and offered valuable advice along the way. Their guidance was essential in reaching this goal. I thank the individuals who helped me reach the needleworkers for this study. Pat Callihan at Callaway Gardens School of Needlework; Rick Caron of Solutia, Inc., President of the American Craft Yam Association; Jeane Hutchins, editor of P iecew ork magazine; Debbie Kiefer, Manager Member Services and the Apparel & Textiles and Art & Design Divisions o f the American Association of Family and Consumer Sciences (AAFCS); Rosemary Kostansek, editor o f Needle Arts, published by The Embroiderers Guild o f America (EGA); Chris Ladish (Editor) and Sandy Hutton (Managing Editor) of the ITAA newsletter; Debbie Novak o f the Historic Needlework Guild and Ellen at [email protected]: Janet Perry, editor o f“Nuts and Needlepoint” on www.about.com: Sally Queen, editor o f Region VI Costume Society of America (CSA) online newsletter; Beth Robertson and Suzanne Howren of ANG and The Needlewoman East in Falls Church, VA; Karen Searle, editor o f the Textile Society of America (TSA) Newsletter Lisa Senchyshyn, Public Programs Coordinator at the Peabody Essex Museum; The staff at TNNA Today/ The National Needlework Association; Melodie Sweeney, Curator o f Textiles at The Smithsonian Institution; Cathy Taylor, Managing Editor, CSA News/ Costume Society of America; and Marge Tibbetts, Gloria White, Mary Kier, Mary Scott, and Lina Robinson o f the Flint Ridge and Columbus Area Chapters of EGA and the Creative Hands of Ohio Chapter o f the American Needlepoint Guild (ANG). Much thanks to Erica Wilson and Vladimir Kagan whose great generosity and openness helped me to lay the groundwork for this and future study. Finally, I thank my family for believing in me, especially my mother, Colleen Murphy Hilliard, my grandmother Catherine Murphy, and my sisters Margie, Trish, and Carrie. Most o f all, the greatest admiration is for my husband, James Leslie, who encourages me daily to follow my heart. v Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction prohibited without permission. VITA October 11,1961 Bom-Hartford, Connecticut 1983 B. A Speech/Communications and Political Science, Denison University 1999 M.S. Apparel and Textiles, Colorado State University 1997-1999 Graduate Teaching and Research Assistant, Colorado State University 1999-2001 Graduate Teaching and Research Associate, The Ohio State University PUBLICATIONS Research Pubfication 1. Ogle, J., Eckman, M., and Leslie, C. A., “Appearance cues and the shootings at Columbine High: Construction of a social problem in the print media.” Sociological Inquiry (In press). FIELDS OF STUDY Major Field: Human Ecology Minor Field: History vi Reproduced with permission of the copyright owner. Further reproduction