©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

Western Europe

Ireland p372 Britain p106 The Netherlands p484 Germany Belgium & p254 Luxembourg p70

France Austria p174 Switzerland p38 p612

Italy Portugal p402 p510 Spain p542 Greece p326

Catherine Le Nevez, Kerry Christiani, Gregor Clark, Mark Elliott, Duncan Garwood, Korina Miller, Nicola Williams, Neil Wilson Isabel Albiston, Kate Armstrong, Alexis Averbuck, Oliver Berry, Cristian Bonetto, Jean-Bernard Carillet, Fionn Davenport, Marc Di Duca, Belinda Dixon, Anthony Ham, Paula Hardy, Damian Harper, Anita Isalska, Ali Lemer, Virginia Maxwell, Hugh McNaughtan, Isabella Noble, John Noble, Lorna Parkes, Christopher Pitts, Leonid Ragozin, Kevin Raub, Simon Richmond, Daniel Robinson, Brendan Sainsbury, Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Helena Smith, Regis St Louis, Andy Symington, Benedict Walker, Greg Ward PLAN YOUR TRIP ON THE ROAD

Welcome to AUSTRIA ...... 38 Kitzbühel...... 66 Western Europe ...... 6 Vienna ...... 42 Lienz...... 66 Western Europe Map. . . . . 8 The Danube Valley. . . . 53 Hohe Tauern National Park ...... 67 Western Europe’s Krems an der Donau. . . . 53 Top 26...... 10 Melk...... 53 BELGIUM & Need to Know...... 22 Upper Austria...... 54 LUXEMBOURG . . . . 70 If You Like ...... 24 Linz...... 54 The South ...... 55 Brussels...... 74 Month by Month. . . . . 28 Graz ...... 55 Flanders...... 83 Itineraries ...... 32 Klagenfurt...... 57 Bruges...... 83 Ypres...... 87 Salzburg...... 57 Ghent...... 89 The Salzkammergut. . . . 62 Hallstatt...... 62 Antwerp...... 93 Lier...... 97 Tyrol...... 63 Innsbruck...... 64 Leuven...... 97 TANGMANPHOTOGRAPHY /GETTYIMAGES © JOHN ROBERTS IMAGES/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

HOUSES OF PARLIAMENT (P110), LONDON MASSIMOSANTIH/SHUTTERSTOCK ©

REIMS P208 ALHAMBRA (P599), GRANADA Contents

Mechelen...... 98 Around Paris...... 200 Avignon ...... 237 Wallonia...... 98 Versailles...... 200 The French Mons...... 98 Chartres...... 201 Riviera & Monaco. . . . 238 Tournai...... 99 Giverny...... 201 Nice ...... 239 Luxembourg ...... 100 Lille & the Somme. . . . 202 Cannes...... 243 Luxembourg City...... 100 Lille...... 202 St-Tropez...... 244 Northern Luxembourg . . . 103 Normandy...... 204 Monaco ...... 245 Moselle Valley...... 104 Bayeux...... 204 Corsica...... 246 D-Day Beaches...... 205 Ajaccio...... 246 BRITAIN...... 106 Mont St-Michel...... 206 Bastia...... 248 Bonifacio...... 249 England ...... 110 Brittany...... 206 London...... 110 Quimper...... 206 Windsor & Eton ...... 133 St-Malo...... 207 GERMANY...... 254 Canterbury ...... 134 Champagne...... 208 Berlin...... 258 Salisbury...... 135 Reims...... 208 Saxony...... 274 Stonehenge...... 136 Épernay...... 210 Dresden...... 274 Bath...... 136 Alsace & Lorraine. . . . 211 Leipzig & Western Saxony...... 277 Oxford ...... 139 Strasbourg ...... 211 Central Germany . . . . 278 The Cotswolds ...... 142 The Loire Valley . . . . . 212 Weimar...... 278 Stratford-upon-Avon. . . . 142 Blois...... 212 Erfurt...... 279 Cambridge...... 145 Around Blois...... 213 Bavaria...... 281 York...... 147 Amboise...... 214 Munich...... 281 Castle Howard ...... 150 Around Amboise...... 215 Bavarian Alps...... 288 Chester ...... 150 Burgundy...... 215 The Romantic Road. . . . . 290 Lake District Dijon...... 215 National Park ...... 151 Beaune...... 216 Nuremberg & Franconia...... 293 Wales ...... 153 Lyon ...... 217 Regensburg & the Cardiff ...... 153 The French Alps. . . . . 222 Danube...... 295 Snowdonia National Chamonix ...... 222 Stuttgart & the Park (Parc The Dordogne...... 224 Black Forest ...... 296 Cenedlaethol Eryri). . . . 155 Sarlat-la-Canéda ...... 224 Stuttgart ...... 296 Scotland...... 156 Atlantic Coast...... 225 Heidelberg...... 298 Edinburgh ...... 156 Bordeaux...... 225 The Black Forest. . . . 299 Glasgow...... 161 Biarritz...... 229 Southern Rhineland. . . 301 Loch Lomond & the Trossachs...... 165 Languedoc- Frankfurt am Main. . . . . 302 Roussillon ...... 229 Inverness...... 166 Romantic Rhine Valley. . . 305 Nîmes...... 230 Loch Ness...... 167 Moselle Valley...... 306 Pont du Gard...... 231 Skye...... 168 Cologne & Northern Provence ...... 232 Rhineland...... 308 Marseille ...... 232 Cologne...... 308 FRANCE...... 174 Aix-en-Provence...... 235 Northern Rhineland. . . . 311 Paris...... 178 ON THE ROAD

Northern Germany. . . . 314

Hamburg...... 314 TRABANTOS/SHUTTERSTOCK © Schleswig-Holstein . . . . . 320 Lower Saxony & Bremen...... 321 Bremen City ...... 322

GREECE ...... 326 Athens...... 328 Peloponnese...... 339 Nafplio...... 339 MALLORCA P589 Mycenae ...... 340 Epidavros...... 340 Olympia...... 340 Kilkenny...... 382 Siena ...... 461 Central Greece . . . . . 341 The Southwest. . . . . 383 Southern Italy...... 463 Delphi...... 341 Cork...... 383 Naples ...... 463 Meteora...... 342 Around Cork...... 386 Capri...... 469 Northern Greece. . . . . 342 Killarney...... 387 Amalfi Coast...... 470 Thessaloniki ...... 342 Ring of Kerry...... 388 Sicily...... 473 Cyclades ...... 346 The West Coast...... 389 Mykonos ...... 346 Galway...... 389 THE Naxos...... 348 Aran Islands ...... 392 NETHERLANDS . . . . 484 Santorini ...... 350 Northern Ireland. . . . . 393 Amsterdam...... 487 Crete...... 353 Belfast...... 393 The Randstad...... 495 Iraklio...... 353 The Causeway & Haarlem...... 495 Antrim Coasts...... 397 Knossos...... 356 Leiden...... 496 Derry (Londonderry). . . . 398 Hania ...... 356 Den Haag...... 498 Samaria Gorge...... 359 Delft...... 500 Dodecanese...... 359 ITALY...... 402 Rotterdam...... 501 Rhodes...... 360 Rome ...... 405 Utrecht...... 504 Kos...... 361 Northern Italy...... 427 The South ...... 506 Northeastern Genoa...... 427 Maastricht...... 506 Aegean Islands. . . . . 363 Cinque Terre...... 429 Samos ...... 363 Turin...... 431 PORTUGAL . . . . . 510 Lesvos ...... 364 Milan...... 432 Lisbon...... 513 Ionian Islands...... 366 The Lakes ...... 438 Around Lisbon ...... 520 Corfu ...... 366 Venice...... 440 Sintra...... 520 Bologna...... 450 Cascais...... 521 IRELAND...... 372 Tuscany & Umbria . . . . 451 The Algarve...... 522 Florence...... 452 Dublin...... 375 Faro...... 522 Lucca...... 460 The Southeast . . . . . 382 Tavira...... 523 Contents

SURVIVAL GUIDE

Lagos...... 524 Around Palma Directory A–Z...... 640 de Mallorca...... 590 Silves ...... 525 Transport...... 648 Sagres ...... 525 Ibiza ...... 591 Language...... 656 Central Portugal. . . . . 526 Andalucía...... 592 Évora...... 526 Seville...... 592 Index...... 661 Peniche ...... 527 Córdoba...... 597 Map Legend...... 669 Óbidos...... 528 Granada...... 599 Nazaré...... 528 Málaga...... 604 Tomar...... 529 Extremadura...... 606 Coimbra...... 530 Cáceres...... 606 The North ...... 532 Porto...... 532 SWITZERLAND. . . . 612 Viana do Castelo ...... 537 Geneva...... 614 Braga ...... 538 Lake Geneva & Vaud. . . . 619 Parque Nacional Lausanne...... 619 da Peneda-Gerês...... 539 Fribourg, Drei-Seen- Land and The Jura. . . . 620 SPAIN...... 542 Gruyères ...... 620 Madrid ...... 546 Valais...... 621 Castilla y León . . . . . 557 Zermatt...... 621 Salamanca...... 557 Bern ...... 622 Segovia ...... 559 Central Switzerland. . . . 624 Castilla-La Mancha . . . 562 Lucerne...... 624 Toledo...... 562 Bernese Oberland. . . 626 Catalonia...... 563 Interlaken ...... 626 Barcelona ...... 563 Grindelwald...... 626 Tarragona ...... 576 Wengen ...... 627 Aragón, Basque Jungfraujoch...... 627 Country & Navarra. . . . 578 Gimmelwald ...... 628 Zaragoza ...... 578 Mürren...... 628 Around Aragón...... 580 Schilthorn...... 628 San Sebastián...... 580 Canton of Zürich . . . . . 628 Bilbao...... 582 Zürich...... 628 Cantabria, Asturias & Northwestern Galicia ...... 583 Switzerland...... 632 SPECIAL Santillana del Mar. . . . . 583 Basel...... 632 FEATURES Santiago de Ticino...... 633 The Louvre in 3D...... 184 Compostela...... 584 Locarno...... 633 Versailles in 3D...... 188 Around Galicia ...... 586 Lugano...... 634 Roman Forum in 3D . . . . 420 Valencia...... 586 Graubünden...... 635 Grand Canal in 3D. . . . . 442 Balearic Islands. . . . . 589 St Moritz...... 635 Mallorca...... 589 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 32

Itineraries

SWEDEN LATVIA RUSSIA

Northern SCOTLAND LLITHUANIA AT L A N T I C Ireland N O R T H DENMARK O C E A N S E A

‚ ENGLAND NETHERLANDS DUBLIN BERLIN #_ É É BELGIUM IRELAND ‚ GERMANY #_ WALES #_ AMSTERDAM LONDON#_ É #_ BRUSSELS VIENNA

É PARIS #_ É #_

Zürich •# FRANCE ‚ É Bay of •#Venice Biscay SWITZERLAND BOSNIA & HERCEGOVINA

Nice •# É •# Florence #_ É Bari TURKEY Barcelona Corsica ROME •# ALBANIA •# (Fr)

GREECE SPAIN É Sardinia ITALY (It) É #_ –# •# LISBON #_ ATHENS

M E D I T E R R A N E A N Santorini É Sicily •# S E A Granada

6 WEEKS Ultimate Europe

Have limited time but want to see a bit of everything? Hit the highlights on this trip. Start in Dublin, soaking up its vibrant pubs and rich literary history. From Ireland, fly to London for great theatre. Then catch the Eurostar train through the English Channel tunnel to beautiful Paris. Travel north to Brussels for famed beer and chocolate, then further north to free- spirited Amsterdam, making time to cruise its canals. Go east, stopping for a cruise on the Rhine, and explore the legendary nightlife in Berlin. Next, visit Vienna for architec- tural and classical-music riches. Zip west to Zürich and the Swiss Alps for awe-inspiring ski slopes and vistas. Head to canal-laced Venice, art-filled Florence and historic Rome. Train it to Bari, take a ferry to Patras, and head east to Athens, then explore island beaches, starting with the stunning Santorini. Connect by air or by ferry and train to the French Riviera (aka the Côte d’Azur) to check out quintessential Mediterranean destinations such as Nice. Continue to Barcelona, then the Moorish towns of southern Spain like Granada. End your trip in the hilly quarters of Lisbon, toasting your grand journey with Portu- gal’s port wine. 33

BELGIUM CZECH REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA MOLDOVA GERMANY

AUSTRIA HUNGARY FRANCE SWITZERLAND ROMANIA PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN

Bay of CROATIA SERBIA Biscay Cannes BOSNIA & St-Tropez Genoa BULGARIA •# •#Cinque Terre HERCEGOVINA •# Nice Avignon É •#Pisa KOSOVO

É •#•# É •# •# É ROME MACEDONIA

Marseille Bastia•# #_ É Corsica É Ajaccio•# Naples ALBANIA

Barcelona •# (Fr) •# Pompeii GREECE •# É SPAIN

É ATHENS

Valencia Sardinia É ITALY É #_ It É •# i nerar •# É •# (It) Córdoba I O N I A N Mykonos É Balearic S E A Islands M E D I T E R R A N E A N É

Seville •# •# É É S E A •# Sicily É •#Granada •# •# i es Málaga Crete

ALGERIA MOROCCO TUNISIA LIBYA

6 WEEKS Mediterranean Europe

Beautiful weather and breathtaking scenery are the draws of this comprehensive tour that takes in famous towns and cities from antiquity to the present. Start in southern Spain in orange-blossom-scented Seville and soak up the archi- tecture, sunshine and party atmosphere. Make your way up the eastern coast past the Moorish town of Málaga and on to Granada and Córdoba. Then it’s back to the coast at Valencia, home of Spain’s famous rice-dish paella, for a ferry-hop to the parties and beaches of the Balearic Islands. Back on the mainland, Barcelona brims with the architecture of Gaudí. From here, head into France’s fabled Provence region, where in Marseille you can see the fortress that was inspiration for the novel The Count of Monte Cristo. Then leave the sea for Provence’s lush hills and lavender-scented towns around the rampart-hooped city of Avignon, and on to the French Riviera and its playground for the rich and famous, St- Tropez. The charming seaside city Nice is a perfect jumping-off point for other nearby coastal hot spots such as glamorous Cannes. Cruise by ferry to Corsica and experience the traditional lifestyle of quiet fishing vil- lages. Hit the bustling old port of Bastia, Napoléon Bonaparte’s home town Ajaccio, then the glittering harbour of Bonifacio to hop on a ferry south to Sardinia and on to Sicily to visit its colossal temples and famous volcano, Mt Etna. Catch a ferry to Naples, on the Italian mainland, and take a trip to Pompeii. Move east to Brindisi for a ferry to Greece that passes rocky coasts seen by mariners for mil- lennia. Head to Athens to wonder at the Greek capital’s ancient treasures before board- ing a plane or ferry to magical islands such as Crete and Mykonos. Return to Italy, taking time to wander amid the ruins and piazzas of Rome. Continue north through Tuscany, stopping at Pisa to see its famous ‘leaning tower’. Finish up along the Ligurian coast, travelling via the brightly coloured coastal villages making up the Cinque Terre, strung between plunging cliffs and vine-covered hills, to the port city of Genoa. 34

SWEDEN SCOTLAND LITHUANIA Northern Glasgow Ireland N O R T H •# S E A DENMARK É BELARUS BELFAST #_ É NETHERLANDS •# York•# PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN Galway IRELAND POLAND ENGLAND Rotterdam Leipzig WALES •# É •# •#Dresden UKRAINE BELGIUM GERMANY CZECH REPUBLIC SLOVAKIA AT L A N T I C LUXEMBOURG •#Regensburg

O C E A N St-Malo •# Loire #_ PARIS É Valley É AUSTRIA HUNGARY •# ROMANIA É SWITZERLAND SLOVENIA It FRANCE •# Lugano i nerar •# CROATIA SERBIA Bordeaux •# Turin IÉTALY Santiago de Bilbao KOSOVO

Compostela •# É •# Orvieto •# É Umbria ALBANIA i es Segovia •# Salamanca •# •# Naples •# É #_ Amalfi

É Coast PORTUGAL MADRID Sicily SPAIN M E D I T E R R A N E A N I O N I A N •# •# S E A •# Faro Seville Agrigento S E A

Backroads of 4 2 France & Iberia WEEKS Europe WEEKS

The far west of Ireland is rugged and un- Start in Paris, discovering the magnificent crowded; start in bohemian Galway, with monuments and hidden backstreet bistros its colourful shopfronts and sensational of the City of Light. Visit the chateaux of music-filled pubs. Then travel to Northern the Loire Valley, then take the fast TGV Ireland – Belfast in particular. Catch a train to Brittany. Walk the 17th-century ferry to reach the dynamic Scottish city of ramparts encircling St-Malo and sample Glasgow and check out the art nouveau authentic Breton cider. Track south along architecture, along with a trove of museums. the Atlantic coast, where red wine reaches Swing south to the atmospheric walled its pinnacle around Bordeaux. Cross the English city of York. Hop across to the border to the Basque city of Bilbao, best Netherlands, where buzzing Rotterdam is known for the magnificent Guggenheim a veritable open-air gallery of modern and Museum, before continuing to the pilgrim- cutting-edge architecture. age shrine of Santiago de Compostela. Travel to the dynamic eastern German Spain’s art-rich capital, Madrid, is cities of Leipzig and Dresden, whose prime for night owls: an evening of tapas historic core has been restored to its 18th- and drinks in tiny bars can postpone din- century glory. Turn south via the stunning ner until midnight. Spend a day exploring Bavarian student hub of Regensburg, to the Roman aqueduct and storybook castle the temperate Swiss town of Lugano. Cross in beautiful Segovia. And don’t skip the into Italy and stop at the cultured city of sandstone splendour of lively Salamanca. Turin, followed by beautiful Umbria spots Plan on using a car to explore the many such as Orvieto, with its hilltop-perched hill towns of Andalucía, where narrow, medieval centre. In Italy’s south, explore winding roads traverse sunburnt land- frenetic Naples and the winding Amalfi scapes and olive orchards. Finally, go west Coast. Scoot over to the sun-baked Medi- via Seville to Portugal’s pretty Algarve terranean island of Sicily. Marvel at the region, finishing in Faro to explore the Grecian Valley of the Temples in Agrigento, Parque Natural da Ria Formosa’s lagoons, which rivals anything in Greece itself. salt pans and sandy islands. 35 RUI VALESOUSA/SHUTTERSTOCK © PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN It i nerar i es UTASCHOLL/SHUTTERSTOCK © Top: Acueducto, Segovia (p559), Spain

Bottom: Ponte dell’Accademia, Venice (p440), Italy 36 36

SCOTLAND EDINBURGH #_ DENMARK NORTHERN IRELAND

N O R T H É S E A IRELAND POLAND PLAN YOUR TRIP TRIP YOUR PLAN NETHERLANDS TRIP YOUR PLAN WALES ENGLAND AMSTERDAM É #_ •# É #_ Rotterdam GERMANY Cologne LONDON •# BELGIUM CZECH The Rhine •# REPUBLIC

It PARIS É AUSTRIA It

i nerar #_ Schloss Salzburg i nerar SWITZERLAND Neuschwanstein •# •#

•# É É R Salzkammergut

Basel •# É •# É Zugspitze Grossglockner

i es Road i es Interlaken •# •#St Moritz

Bay of SLOVENIA Biscay FRANCE •# É É Chamonix•# •# Lago di Como, Lago Maggiore Zermatt •# CROATIA Milan É ITALY Essential Europe

Europe’s Mountains É •#Florence

Europe’s 2 2 Essential Europe WEEKS Mountains WEEKS

From the storybook Austrian city of Salz- Watching Europe from the window of a burg, head east to the mountain-ringed, train or gazing at the sea rolling past the jewel-like lakes of the Salzkammergut handrail of a ferry is the way generations region. To the south is the heart-in-mouth of travellers have explored the continent. Grossglockner Road, with 36 switch- Hit the region’s most unmissable high- backs over 48km as it traverses Austria’s lights on this two-week itinerary. highest peak, the 3798m-high Grossglock- Start in the engaging Scottish capital ner. Northwest, on the Austrian–German Edinburgh, where highlights include border, lies the 2962m-high Zugspitze, Ger- its dramatic castle, then take the train to many’s tallest mountain, adjacent to swish pulsating London and on to Harwich for a ski resort Garmisch-Partenkirchen in the ferry crossing to Hoek van Holland. From Bavarian Alps. From here it’s a short jaunt to here, trains connect to the contemporary Füssen, crowned by King Ludwig II’s fairy- Dutch city of Rotterdam and the gabled tale castle Schloss Neuschwanstein. Golden Age canal-scapes of Amsterdam. Swing southwest to one of Switzerland’s Take a fast train to cathedral-­crowned ritziest ski resorts, St Moritz, where you Cologne and then relax on a river cruise can ride the Bernina Express mountain down the vineyard-ribboned Rhine. railway. Continue southwest into Italy to the Alight at Mainz and connect by train sparkling lakes of Lago di Como and Lago through Basel to picturesque Interlaken Maggiore beneath the towering peaks. for the slow-moving local trains and trams Zigzag northwest back into Switzerland that wend through the majestic Alps. to Zermatt, with dress-circle views of the Then take a train past soaring mountain 4478m-high Matterhorn. Then make your scenery to stylish Milan. From Milan, fast way southwest to mighty Mont Blanc – trains zip to Tuscany’s resplendent capital, Western Europe’s highest peak at 4809m – Florence, a veritable Renaissance time and its feted ski resort Chamonix across capsule. Connect in Milan to snuggle up the border in France, by the Mer de Glace on the night train to Paris, feeling the glacier. romance in the rhythm of the rails. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 659

Behind the Scenes

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to your submissions, we always guarantee that your feed- back goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters. Visit lonelyplanet.com/contact to submit your updates and suggestions or to ask for help. Our award-winning website also features inspirational travel stories, news and discussions. Note: We may edit, reproduce and incorporate your comments in Lonely Planet products such as guidebooks, websites and digital products, so let us know if you don’t want your comments reproduced or your name acknowledged. For a copy of our privacy policy visit lonelyplanet.com/ privacy.

WRITER THANKS ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Catherine Le Nevez Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson Thanks first and foremost to Julian, and to all of the BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the locals, fellow travellers and tourism professionals Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and across Western Europe for insights, inspiration and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633–44. good times throughout the years. Huge thanks too Front cover: Abbey Melk, Austria. Used with permission to my Western Europe co-authors, and to Dan Fahey, Julian Love/Lonely Planet © Evan Godt and everyone at LP. As ever, merci encore to my parents, brother, belle-sœur, neveu and nièce. Illustrations p184–5, p188–9, p420–1 and p442–3 by Javier Zarracina. 660 BEHIND THE SCENES THE BEHIND

Helena Smith, Regis St Louis, Jennifer Hattam, Gabrielle THIS BOOK Andy Symington, Benedict Innes, Kellie Langdon, Jodie This 14th edition of Lonely Walker and Greg Ward. This Martire, Lou McGregor, Rosie Planet’s Western Europe guidebook was produced by Nicholson, Lauren O’Connell, guidebook was researched the following: Kristin Odijk, Susan Paterson, and written by Catherine Le Destination Editors Jennifer Monique Perrin, Sarah Reid, Nevez, Kerry Christiani, Gregor Carey, Daniel Fahey, Niamh Tamara Sheward, Gina Tsarou- Clark, Mark Elliott, Duncan O’Brien, Tom Stainer, Anna has, Fionnuala Twomey, Simon Garwood, Korina Miller, Nicola Tyler, Brana Vladisavljevic, Williamson Williams, Neil Wilson, Isabel Clifton Wilkinson Assisting Cartographers Albiston, Kate Armstrong, Senior Product Editors Grace Julie Dodkins, Rachel Imeson, Alexis Averbuck, Oliver Berry, Dobell, Elizabeth Jones Valentina Kremenchutskaya, Cristian Bonetto, Jean-Bernard Katerina Pavkova Regional Senior Carillet, Fionn Davenport, ­Cartographers Mark Griffiths, Cover Researcher Marc Di Duca, Belinda Dixon, Anthony Phelan Naomi Parker Anthony Ham, Paula Hardy, Book Designer Clara Monitto Thanks to Ben Buckner, Car- Damian Harper, Anita Isalska, olyn Boicos, Esme Fox, Sandra Assisting Editors Sarah Bai- Ali Lemer, Virginia Maxwell, Henriques Gajjar, Evan Godt, Hugh McNaughtan, Isabella ley, Andrew Bain, James Bain- bridge, Judith Bamber, Imogen Shona Gray, Alicia Johnson, Noble, John Noble, Lorna Sandie Kestell, Amy Lysen, Parkes, Christopher Pitts, Bannister, Michelle Bennett, Nigel Chin, Katie Connolly, Claire Naylor, Karyn Noble, Leonid Ragozin, Kevin Raub, Matt Phillips, Kirsten Rawlings, Simon Richmond, Daniel Lucy Cowie, Peter Cruttenden, Jacqueline Danam, Melanie Kathryn Rowan, James Smart, Robinson, Brendan Sainsbury, Vicky Smith, Fiona Flores Andrea Schulte-Peevers, Dankel, Andrea Dobbin, Samantha Forge, Carly Hall, Watson ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 661

Index

A drugs 494 Palatino 405 highlights 40-1 A Coruña 586 entertainment 494 Phaestos 356 hiking 64, 67 Aachen 312-13 festivals & events 490 Pompeii 468 itineraries 39 abbeys food 491-3 Pont du Gard 231-2 money 68 Stift Melk 54 gay travellers 495 Roman Agora 329, 333 opening hours 68 accessible travel 640, see Red Light District 493 Roman Forum 405-6, 420- skiing 66, 67 also individual countries shopping 494-5 1, 420-1 telephone services 68 accommodation 640-1, see sights 487-90 Stonehenge 136 tourist information 69 also individual countries tourist information 495 Teatro Greco 476 travel seasons 38 Acropolis 17, 329, 333, 17 tours 490 Temple of Olympian Zeus travel to/from 39, 69 activities 28-31, 641-2, see travel to/from 495 329, 333 travel within 69 also boating, cycling, travel within 495 Tivoli 426 Avebury 135 hiking, kayaking, skiing, Andalucía 592-606 Trier 307-8 Avignon 237-8 surfing, windsurfing Andorra 576 Valley of the Temples 478 Ávila 559 adventure sports 626 Anglet 229 architecture 26, 453 Aegean Islands 363-6 Anne Frank Huis 487-8 Arcos de la Frontera 603 Aegina 338 Arles 235 B Antrim Coast 397-8 Bach, Johann Sebastian 280 Aeolian Islands 470 art 26, 453 Agia Irini gorge 357 Antwerp 93-7, 94 Bacharach 305 Apiranthos 349 art galleries, see museums & Agia Roumeli 359 galleries Baden-Baden 299-300 Apollonas 349 Agiasos 366 Artà 591 Baeza 603 apple-wine taverns 303 Agios Gordios 368 Assisi 463 Baleal 527 aquariums Aillte an Mothair 392 Assmannhausen 306 Balearic Islands 589-92 air travel 648, 649 AQUATIS Aquarium & Ballycastle 397 Vivarium 619 Asturias 583-6 airlines 649 Bamberg 294-5 Musée Océanographique Athens 328-39, 330-1 Aix-en-Provence 235-7 de Monaco 246 accommodation 333 Barcelona 563-76, 564-5, 568-9 Ajaccio 246-8 Aragón 578-83 activities 332 accommodation 570-1 Akragas 478 Aran Islands 392-3 drinking & nightlife 335-6 drinking & nightlife 573 Akrotiri 350 archaeological sites entertainment 336, 337 Albarracín 580 entertainment 574 Acropolis 17, 329, 333, 17 festivals & events 333 Albert 204 festivals & events 570 Akrotiri 350 food 333-5 Algarve, the 522-6 food 571-2 Asklepieion 362 markets 335, 336 shopping 574 Alhambra 14, 599, 602, 2, 14 Avebury Stone Circle 135 shopping 336 sights & activities 563-70 Alkmaar 506 Colosseum 405 sights 329-32, 333, 334 tourist information 574 Alsace 211-12 Delos 347 tourist information 336-7 travel to/from 574-6 Amalfi 472-3 Delphi 341-2 tours 332 travel within 576 Amalfi Coast 470-3 Epidavros 340 travel to/from 337, 339 Bari 474 Amboise 214-15 Hadrian’s Wall 152 travel within 337-9 bars 25 Amsterdam 17, 487-95, 488- Heraklion Archaeological ATMs 645 9, 492, 17 Museum 353-4 Auditorium Parco della Basel 632-3 accommodation 490-1 Herculaneum 468 Musica 425 Basque Country 578-83 drinking & nightlife 493-4 Lindos 361 Austen, Jane 137 Bastia 248-9 Mycenae 340 Austria 38-69, 40-1 Bath 19, 136-9, 138, 19 Olympia 340-1 accommodation 38, 39, 68 Bavaria 281-96 Map Pages 000 Ostia Antica 426 drinks 39 Bavarian Alps 288-90 Photo Pages 000 Palace of Knossos 356 food 38, 39 Bayeux 204-5 662 beaches 26 Bologna 450-1 Cala Llombards 591 Palácio Nacional de Beaune 216-17 Bonifacio 249-50 Cala Mondragó 591 Sintra 520 beer 18, 25, 18, see also Bonn 313-14 Cala Sant Vicenç 591 Palais des Papes 237 breweries Book of Kells 378 Cambridge 145-7 Palazzo Vecchio 453 Munich 281 Boppard 306 campervan travel 650 Real Alcázar 593, 596 Beethoven, Ludwig van 313 Bordeaux 225-8 camping 643 Royal Palace

INDEX INDEX Beilstein 306 Bouillon 99 Campo do Gerês 539 (Amsterdam) 487 Belfast 393-7, 394 Braga 538-9 Cannes 243-4 Schloss Belvedere 46 Schloss Charlottenburg Belgium 70-105, 72-3 Bremen City 322-5 Cantabria 583-6 258 B-C accommodation 70, 71 breweries Canterbury 134-5  Schloss Heidelberg 298 drinks 71 Brussels 75 Cap Formentor 591 Schloss Hellbrunn 62 food 70, 71 Germany 323 Capileira 603 Schloss Guinness 375 Capri 469-70 highlights 72 Hohenschwangau 290 Leuven 97 car travel 650-2 itineraries 71 Schloss Neuschwanstein money 104 Britain 106-73, 108-9 Carcassonne 231 290 opening hours 104 accommodation 107, Cardiff 153-5 Schloss Sanssouci 268 telephone services 104 169-70 Carnevale 28 Schloss Schönbrunn 46-7 travel seasons 70 activities 170 Carrick-a-Rede Rope Bridge Stirling Castle 165 398 travel to/from 71, 104 drinks 106, 107 Tower of London 114 Cascais 521-2 travel within 105 food 107 Wartburg 280 cash 645 Benaoján 603 highlights 108-9 Warwick Castle 145 Cashel 386 Benitses 368 itineraries 107 Windsor Castle 134 Casino de Monte Carlo 245 Berchtesgaden 288-9 money 170, 173 Würzburg Residenz 292 Castilla y León 557-62 Bergen-Belsen 321 museums 106 Zwinger 274 Castilla-La Mancha 562-3 Berlenga Grande 527 opening hours 170 Catalonia 563-78 castles & palaces 24 Berlin 13, 258-74, 259, 260, telephone services 171 Catania 477 Alhambra 14, 599, 602, 264-5, 266-7 travel seasons 106 cathedrals, see churches & accommodation 269-70 travel to/from 107, 171 2, 14 cathedrals drinking & nightlife 272-3 travel within 172-3 Blarney Castle 386-7 Causeway Coast, the 397-8 entertainment 273 British Museum 115 Blenheim Palace 141 cave art 224 food 270-2 Brittany 206-8 Buckingham Palace caves 111, 114 itineraries 258 Bruges 83-7, 84 Dachstein Rieseneishöhle Cardiff Castle 153 sights 258-74 Brussels 74-83, 76-7 63 Castle Howard 150 tours 269, 271 accommodation 78-9 Grotta Azzurra 469 Château de Bouillon 99 travel to/from 273 drinking & nightlife 80-1 Grotte de Lascaux 224 Château de Chambord travel within 274 entertainment 81 Cazorla 603 213 Berlin Wall 13, 259, 261, food 79-80 cell phones 646 Château de Chaumont- 267, CERN 614-15 13 shopping 81-2 sur-Loire 214 Bern 622-4 sights 74-8 Château de Chenonceau Chamonix 21, 222-4, 21 Bernese Oberland 626-8 tourist information 82 215 Champagne 21, 208-10, 2, 21 Bernkastel 306-7 travel to/from 82 Château de Chillon 620 Chania 356-9 Bernkastel-Kues 306-7 travel within 82-3 Château de Gruyères 620 Chartres 201 Biarritz 229 Buckingham Palace 111, 114 Château de Versailles 200 châteaux, see castles bicycle travel, see cycling Burano 444 Château de Villandry 215 Chemin de la Corniche 16 Big Ben 110, 2 Burgos 561 Château Royal d’Amboise Chester 150-1 Bilbao 582-3 Burgundy 215-17 214 children, travel with 642 Black Forest, the 296, bus tours 653 Château Royal de Blois Christmas markets 31, 295 299-301 bus travel 650 212-13 Germany 291, 293, 295 Blarney Castle 386-7 Conwy Castle 155 Vienna 48 Blarney Stone 387 Dunvegan Castle 168 churches & cathedrals Blois 212-13 C Edinburgh Castle 156, 21 Cabo de Gata 605 Aachener Dom 313 boat tours 653 Hampton Court Palace Cabo de São Vicente 525 Bamberger Dom 294 boat travel 650 122 Cabo Ortegal 586 Basilica di San Francesco boating 641-2 Hofburg (Vienna) 42, 12 463 Cáceres 606-7 Kaiserappartements 42 Basilica di San Marco 440 Cádiar 603 Kaiserburg 293 Basilica di Santa Cecilia in Caen 206 Map Pages Kilkenny Castle 382 Trastevere 413-14 000 cafes 25 Photo Pages 000 Palace of Holyroodhouse Canterbury Cathedral 134 Cala Agulla 591 156 663 Cappella Palatina 474 Corfu 366-8 Dublin 20, 375-82, 376-7, 20 Venice 445 Catedral de Sevilla & Corfu Town 366-8 accommodation 378 Vienna 48 Giralda 593 Cork 383-6, 384 drinking & nightlife Figueres 577 Cathédrale Notre Dame Corniglia 430 379-80 Fira 350-3 (Chartres) 201 Cornwall 152 entertainment 380 Flanders 83-98 Cathédrale Notre Dame Corsica 246-50 food 378-9 Florence 452-60, 454-5, de Paris 179 Costa da Morte 586 sights 375-8 7, 15 INDEX Cathédrale Notre Dame tourist information 380 accommodation 456-7 (Reims) 208 Costiera Amalfitana 470-3 travel to/from 380-1 drinking & nightlife 457-8 Cathédrale Notre-Dame Côte d’Azur238 -46 Strasbourg) 211 Côte de Beaune 217 travel within 381-2 festivals & events 456  C-G) Dom St Peter 295 Côte de Nuits 217 Dune du Pilat 229 food 457, 458 Dusseldorf 311-14 Duomo (Florence) 452, 7 Côte d’Or 217 gelato 458 Duomo (Milan) 432 Cotswolds, the 142 sights 452-6, 457 Duomo (Orvieto) 462 credit cards 645 E tourist information 458 Duomo (Siena) 461 Crete 353-9, 354-5 Edinburgh 21, 156-61, 158-9 travel to/from 458-9 Église St-Germain des cruise ships 649 Edinburgh International travel within 459-60 Prés 179 currency 22 Festival 28 food 24, 643-4, see also Erfurter Dom 279 customs regulations 642 Ehrenhausen 56 individual countries football 573 Fraumünster 629 Cyclades, the 346-53 Eiffel Tower 11, 178, 11 Freiburger Münster 300 cycling 642, 649-50 Eisenach 280 Fornalutx 591 fortresses I Frari 444 Netherlands 18, 499 18 El Acebuche 603 King’s College Chapel 145 El Rocío 603 Bock Casemates 100 Kölner Dom 308-9 electricity 643 Festung Hohensalzburg D 58, La Sagrada Família 14, embassies 643 20 Dachau Concentration France 174-253, 176-7 567, 14 Camp 287 emergencies 23 accommodation 174, Onze-Lieve- Dachstein Rieseneishöhle 63 England 110-53 Vrouwekathedraal 93 175, 250 Dalí, Salvador 577 Épernay 210 Pantheon 407 drinks 175 Damme 87 Epidavros 340 Sainte-Chapelle 179 food 174, 175 Danube Valley 53-4 Erfurt 279-80 Salisbury Cathedral 135 highlights 176-7 David 455-6 Eton 133-4 Sé (Braga) 538 hiking 233 da Vinci, Leonardo 433 Eurail 653, 655 Sé Velha 530 itineraries 175 D-Day Beaches 205-6 euro 644 St Canice’s Cathedral 382 kayaking 233 Deià 591 events see festivals & events Sistine Chapel 410 LGBT+ travellers 251 Delfshaven 505 Évora 526-7 St Patrick’s Cathedral 377 opening hours 251 Delft 500-1 Extremadura 606-7 St Paul’s Cathedral 114 skiing 222 Delos 347 Èze 243 St Peter’s Basilica 410-11 telephone services 251 Delphi 341-2 St-Romboutskathedraal travel seasons 174 98 Den Haag 498-500 F travel to/from 175, 252 Stephansdom 42 Derry 398-9 Faro 522-3 travel within 252-3 Westminster Abbey 110 Diekirch 104 Ferreirola 603 Franconia 293-5 York Minster 147 Digne-les-Bains 242 ferries 648-9 Frank, Anne 321, 487-8 cicheti 449 Dijon 215-16 festivals & events 28-31 Frankfurt-on-the-Main Cinque Terre 429-31 disabilities, travellers with Amsterdam 490 302-5, 302-3 640, see also individual Athens 333 Freiburg 300-1 Clifden 393 countries Barcelona 570 French Alps, the 222-4 Cliffs of Moher 392 discount cards 643 Cologne 309 French Riviera 238-46 climate 22, 28-31 Dodecanese, the 359-63 Edinburgh 28, 157 Fribourg 620-1 Cochem 306 Dordogne, the 224-5 Florence 456 Fussen 289-90 coffee houses 51 Dordrecht 506 Glastonbury 143 Coimbra 530-2 Drei-seen-Land 620-1 Lisbon 516-17 Cologne 308-11 Dresden 274-7 G Lyon 221 Colosseum 405 drinks, see apple-wine tav- Gaillimh 389-92 Madrid 547 comic strips 81 erns, beer, coffee houses, Galicia 583-6 Montreux Jazz Festival Como 438-9 wine, wineries galleries, see museums & 620 Connemara 393 driving 650-2 galleries Nice 241 consulates 643 driving licenses 650-1 Galway 389-92, 390 Oktoberfest 28, 284 Conwy 155 drugs 494, 507-8 Game of Thrones 397 Salzburg 60 Córdoba 597-9 Drumnadrochit 167-8 Gap of Dunloe 387 664 gardens, see parks & travel to/from 327, 370 Reichstag 261 drinks 403, 479 gardens travel within 370-1 Rotterdam 501-3 food 402, 403, 479 Garmisch 288 Greek Islands 338 Shakespeare’s Globe highlights 402, 404 Garmisch-Partenkirchen 288 Grevenmacher 104 114-15 hiking 429, 471 gay travellers, see LGBT+ Grindelwald 626-7 Trafalgar Square 110-11 history 428 travellers Grossglockner Road 67 Trinity College 145-6, 375 itineraries 403

INDEX INDEX gelato 423, 458 Grotte de Lascaux 224 history 428 money 480 Geneva 614-18, 616 Gruyères 620-1 hitching 652 museums & galleries 481 Genoa 427-9 Hofbräuhaus 281, 14 opening hours 480

G-K Genova 427-9 Hoge Veluwe National telephone services 480-1  Germany 254-325, 256-7 H Park 506 Haarlem 495-6 travel to/from 403, accommodation 254, Hohe Tauern National 481, 482 Hadrian’s Wall 152 255, 323 Park 67 travel within 481-3 Hague, the 498-500 drinks 255 Hora (Mykonos) 346-8 Ithaki 368 Halki 349 food 254, 255 Hora (Naxos) 348-50 itineraries 32-6, see also highlights 256-7 Hallstatt 62-3 Hora Sfakion 357 individual countries itineraries 255 Hamburg 314-20, 316-17 Hydra 338 Iveragh Peninsula 388-9 money 324 accommodation 318-19 opening hours 324 drinking & nightlife 319 I J telephone services 324 food 319 Ibiza 591-2 Jewish heritage, see also sights 314-17 tourist information 324 Île Ste-Marguerite 243 WWII sites & museums tourist information 320 travel seasons 254 Île St-Honorat 243 Anne Frank Huis 487-8 travel to/from 320 travel to/from 255, 324-5 Îles de Lérins 243-4 Cordoba 599 travel within 320-1 travel within 325 Inisheer 392-3 Holocaust Memorial 261 Hameau du Lion 82 Ghent 89-93, 90-1 Inishmaan 392-3 Jüdisches Museum 262 Hania 356-9 Giant’s Causeway 17, 397, 17 Inishmore 392-3 Museu d’Història dels Harder Kulm 626 Gimmelwald 628 Innsbruck 64-6 Jueus 575 Harrods 131 Girona 575 insurance 644 Neue Synagoge 269 Harry Potter 134 Giverny 201-2 Interlaken 626 Rome’s Jewish Ghetto health 644 area 424 Glasgow 161-5, 162-3 international transfers 645-6 Heidelberg 298-9 Sinagoga del Tránsito 562 Glastonbury 143 internet access 644 Heiligenblut 67 Jungfraujoch 627-8 Glen Coe 152 internet resources 23 Hemingway, Ernest 583 Jura, the 620-1 Goethe, Johann Wolfgang InterRail 655 Herculaneum 468 von 278 Inverness 166-7 hiking 642 Gouda 506 Ioannina 344 Austria 64, 67 K Granada 599-604, 600-1 Ionian Islands 366-8 Kaffeehäuser 51 France 233 Grasmere 152-3 Iraklio 353-6 Kamari 351 Germany 288, 301 Graubünden 635 Ireland 372-401, Kassiopi 368 Greece 341, 344, 354, 374 Graz 55-7 kayaking 359, 368 accommodation 373, 399 Grazalema 603 France 233 Italy 429, 471 drinks 372, 373 Great Britain, see Britain Portugal 523 Liechtenstein 633 food 372, 373 Greece 326-71, 328 Kefallonia 368 Portugal 539 highlights 374 accommodation 326, 327 Kefalos Bay 362 Switzerland 621, 626, 627, itineraries 373 drinks 327 628, 636 money 399 Kerkyra 366-8 food 326, 327 Wales 155 opening hours 399 Keukenhof 497 highlights 328 historic buildings & sites 24, telephone services 400 Kilkenny 382-3 hiking 341, 344, 354, 182, see also archaeo- travel seasons 372 Killarney 387-8 359, 368 logical sites travel to/from 373, 400 Kilronan 392-3 itineraries 327 Bodleian Library 139 travel within 400-1 Kinderdijk 506 money 369 Cimetière du Père Isola Bella 438 kitron 349 opening hours 369 Lachaise 183 Isola Madre 438 Kitzbuhel 66 telephone services 369 Eiffel Tower 178 Italian Lakes, the 438-40 Klagenfurt 57 tourist information 369-70 Gedenkstätte Berlin-Ho- Italy 402-83, 404 Klee, Paul 622 travel seasons 326 henschönhausen 258 accommodation 403, Klein Matterhorn 621 Houses of Parliament 110 479, 480 Knossos 356 Leaning Tower of Pisa 459 activities 479 Koblenz 306 Les Catacombes 179 Map Pages 000 architecture 453 Koln 308-11, 310 Mont St-Michel 206 Photo Pages 000 art 453 Königsee 289 Panthéon (Paris) 179 665 Kos 361-3 Lisbon 18, 513-20, 514-15, 18 Lyon 217-22, 218-19 Crete 359 Kos Town 362-3 accommodation 517-18 Meteora 342 Kourtaliotiko Gorge 359 activities 517 Mosteiro dos Jerónimos M 513 Krems an der Donau 53 drinking & nightlife 519 Maastricht 506-7 Monet, Claude 201-2 Krimml 67 entertainment 519 Mackintosh, Charles Rennie Krimmler Wasserfälle 67 festivals & events 516-17 161 money 22, 645-6

discount cards 643 INDEX Kues 306-7 food 518-19 Madrid 546-57, 548-9, lookouts 513 552-3 Moni Preveli 359 sights 513, 516 accommodation 547-50 Monodendri 344

L Mons 98-9  K-M La Turbie 243 tourist information 519 drinking & nightlife 551-5 tours 516 Mont St-Michel 206  Lago di Como 438-9 entertainment 555-6 Monterosso 430 Lago di Garda 439-40 travel to/from 519-20 festivals & events 547 Montreux 620 Lago Maggiore travel within 520 food 550-1 (Italy) 438 Liverpool 152 shopping 556 Moselle Valley (Belgium) 104 Lago Maggiore Locarno 633-4 sights 546-7 Moselle Valley (Germany) 306-8 (Switzerland) 633-4 Loch Lomond 165-6 tapas 555 mosques Lagos 524-5 Loch Ness 167-8 tourist information 556 Mezquita 597, 598 Lake District National Park Loire Valley 212-15 travel to/from 556-7 Mosque of Süleyman 360 151-3 London 11, 110-33, 111, 116- travel within 557 motorcycle travel 652-3 Lake Geneva 619-20 17, 120-1, 124-5 Málaga 604-6 Lakones 368 Moulin Rouge 197 accommodation 122-5 Mallorca 589-90, 4 Mt Etna 477 language 656-8 drinking & nightlife 127-9 Manarola 430 Mt Vesuvius 468 Languedoc-Roussillon entertainment 129-30 markets 229-32 Munich 14, 281-8, 282-3 food 126-7 Athens 335, 336 Las Alpujarras 603 accommodation 285-6 shopping 131 Crete 353 Las Fallas 587 drinking & nightlife 281, sights 110-22 London 131 Lauberhorn 627 286-7 tourist information 131-2 Mercat de la Boqueria 563 Lausanne 619-20 entertainment 287 tours 122 Paris 198 Leaning Tower 459 festivals & events 284 travel to/from 132 Marseille 232-5 Lecce 470 food 286 travel within 132-3 Mata Nacional do Buçaco sights 281-5 Lefkada 368 Londonderry 398-9 531 tourist information 287 legal matters 644 Loreley 305 Matera 470 Leiden 496-8 tours 285 Lorraine 211-12 Matterhorn 621, 15, 15 Leipzig 277-8 travel to/from 287 Loutro 357 measures 647 León 561 travel within 288 Louvre, the 182 Mechelen 98 lesbian travellers, see LGBT+ Murano 444 Lower Saxony 321-3 Megalo Papingo 344 travellers Murren 628 Lubeck 320-1 Meissen 276 Lesvos 364-6 museums & galleries 182 Lucca 460 Melk 53-4 Leuven 97-8 Acropolis Museum 329 Lucerne 624-5 Meteora 342 LGBT+ travellers 644-5 Alte Pinakothek 284 Lugano 634-5 Michelangelo 411, 455-6 Amsterdam 495 Bayeux Tapestry 204 Lugo 586 Mikro Papingo 344 Berlin 273 Benaki Museum of Greek Luso 531 Milan 432-8, Britain 170 434-5 Culture 329 Luther, Martin 279, 280 accommodation 433-5 France 251 Berchtesgaden National Luxembourg 16, 70-3, 100-4, activities 436 Germany 324 Park 288-9 72-3, 16 drinking & nightlife 436-7 Greece 369 British Museum 115 accommodation 70, 71 entertainment 436-7 Italy 480 Capitoline Museums 406 drinks 71 food 435-6 London 130 Centre Pompidou 183 food 70, 71 shopping 433, 437 Munich 286 Centre Pompidou-Metz highlights 72 sights 432-3 205 Paris 197 itineraries 71 tourist information 437 Centro de Arte Reina Portugal 540 money 104 travel to/from 437 Sofía 546 Liechtenstein 633 opening hours 104 travel within 437-8 Chester Beatty Library Lienz 66-7 telephone services 104 Mithymna 366 375 Lier 97 travel seasons 70 mobile phones 646 DDR Museum 263 Lille 202-4 travel to/from 71, 104 Molyvos 366 East Side Gallery 259, Lindos 361 261, travel within 105 Monaco 245-6 13 Linz 54-5 Fondation Beyeler 632 Luxembourg City 100-3, monasteries Lipari 470 Frans Hals Museum 102-3 Convento de Cristo 529 Hof 496 666 museums & galleries Museu Nacional d’Art de national parks & reserves Northern Ireland 393-9 (continued) Catalunya 570 Connemara National Northern Samos 364 Fundació Joan Miró 570 Museu Picasso 566 Park 393 Notting Hill Carnival 28 Galleria dell’Accademia Museum Jean Tinguely Hoge Veluwe National Nuits-St-Georges 217 (Florence) 455-6 632 Park 506 Nuremberg 293-4 Gallerie dell’Accademia Museumsinsel 262-3 Hohe Tauren National (Venice) 440-1 Park 67 INDEX INDEX MuseumsQuartier 43 Galleria degli Uffizi 452-3, National Archaeological Killarney National Park O 456 Museum (Greece) 329 387 Oberjoch 626 Gedenkstätte Berliner National Gallery Lake District National Obertraun 63 M-P  Mauer 267 (London) 111 Park 151-3 Oberwesel 306 Gedenkstätte Buchen- National Museum of Loch Lomond & the Óbidos 528 wald 278 Ireland - Archaeology Trossachs National Oia 350-3 Park 165 Groeningemuseum 83 375 Oktoberfest 28, 284 Mata Nacional do Buçaco Jüdisches Museum 262 National Museum of Olympia 340-1 Scotland 156 531 Kelvingrove Art Gallery & Olympus 341 Museum 161 Natural History Museum Mata Nacional dos Sete Omaha Beach 205 Kilmainham Gaol 375, 377 115 Montes 529 Omalos 359 Kunsthaus 629 Neues Museum 263 Parc National des Calanques 233 Orvieto 462 Kunsthistorisches Olympic Museum 619 Ostia Antica 426 Museum Vienna 42-3 Palais des Beaux Arts 202 Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre 429-31 Oxford 139-42 Lentos 54 Peggy Guggenheim Parque Nacional da Louvre-Lens 205 Collection 441 Peneda-Gerês 539-40 Mauritshuis 498 Pergamonmuseum 263 Parque Natural Sierras de P Rijksmuseum 488-9 Musée des Beaux-Arts Cazorla 603 palaces 24, see castles & (Dijon) 216 Rijksmuseum van palaces Parque Nacional de los Oudheden 497 Musée des Beaux-Arts Picos de Europa 584 Palatino 405 (Lyon) 219 Sammlung Rosengart 624 Parque Nacional de Ordesa Paleohora 357 Musée d’Orsay 178-9 Stedelijk Museum 489 y Monte Perdido 580 Paleokastritsa 368 Musée du Louvre 182, Tate Britain 110 Parque Natural da Ria Palermo 474-6 184-5 Tate Modern 115 Formosa 523 Palma de Mallorca 589-90 Musée du Quai Branly - Titanic Belfast 395 Snowdonia National Pamplona 583 Jacques Chirac 178 Topographie des Terrors Park 155 Parc Cenedlaethol Eryri 155 Musée International de 261 Swiss National Park 636 Paris 178-200, , , la Croix-Rouge et du 180-1 186 Van Gogh Museum 489 Navarra 578-83 Croissant-Rouge 615 190-1 Vatican Museums 410, 411 Naxos 348-50 Musée Magritte 74 accommodation 187, 192 Vermeer Centrum Delft Nazaré 528-9 drinking & nightlife 195-7 Musée National Picasso 500 183 Netherlands, the 484-509, entertainment 197 Victoria & Albert Museum Musée Rodin 178 486 food 193-5 118 accommodation 484, Musées Royaux des food trucks 195 Zentrum Paul Klee 622 485, 507 Beaux-Arts 74 gay travellers 197 music 27, 52, 336 drinks 485 Museo Archeologico lesbian travellers 197 Mycenae 340 drugs 494, 507-8 Nazionale 463 markets 198 Mykonos 346-8 food 484, 485 Museo del Novecento picnic spots 193 Mystras 340 highlights 486 432-3 shopping 197-8 Mytilini 364-6 itineraries 485 Museo del Prado 546, 547 sights 178-83 Mytilini Town 364-6 money 508 Museo e Galleria Borgh- tourist information 198 ese 414 opening hours 508 tours 183, 187 Museo Guggenheim telephone services 508 N travel to/from 198-9 Bilbao 582 travel seasons 484 Nafplio 339-40 travel within 199-200 Museo Lázaro Galdiano travel to/from 485, 508-9 546-7 Naples 463-9, 464 vegetarian & vegan travel within 499, 509 travellers 194 Museo Picasso Málaga accommodation 465-6 Nice 239-43, 604 drinking & nightlife 467 240-1 parks & gardens Niedersachsen 321-3 Museo Thyssen- entertainment 467 Giverny 201-2 Bornemisza 546 food 466-7 nightlife 26 Hyde Park 118-19 sights 463-5, 466 Nîmes 230-1 Jardin des Tuileries 182 tourist information 467 Nocelle 471 Jardin du Luxembourg 179 travel to/from 467-9 Normandy 204-6 Keukenhof 497 Map Pages 000 travel within 469 Northeastern Aegean Islands Kew Gardens 122 363-6 Photo Pages 000 Napoléon 247 Park Güell 569 667 Park Sanssouci 268 Q safety 646 Sintra 520-1 Parque del Buen Retiro Quimper 206-7 Sagres 525-6 Siracusa 478-9 546 Salamanca 557-9 Sirmione 439-40 Schlossgarten Salisbury 135-6 Sistine Chapel 410 Charlottenburg 259 R Salzburg 20, 57-62, 58, 20 Skala Eresou 365, 366 Tiergarten 265 Randstad, the 495-506 accommodation 60-1 Skellig Islands 388 Ravello 473 Vondelpark 490 INDEX drinking & nightlife 61-2 Skellig Michael 388 Partenkirchen 288 Ravenna 451 festivals & events 60 skiing 642 Paxi 368 Regensburg 295-9 food 61 Austria 66, 67 Reims 208-9 Peloponnese, the 339-41  P-S sights 58-60, 61, 62 France 222 Pembrokeshire 152 rembetika 336 tourist information 62 Germany 288 Peniche 527-8 Rembrandt 488-9, 490 tours 60 Switzerland 621, 626, reserves, see national parks Périgueux 225 627, 635 & reserves travel to/from 62 Péronne 204 Skye 168-9 Rethymno 359 travel within 62 Phaestos 356 Salzkammergut 62-3 smoking 646 Pinhão 533 Rhine Valley 19, 305-6, 19 Samaria Gorge 359 Sneem 388 Piraeus 339 Rhineland, Northern 308-14 Samos 363-4 snowboarding 642 Pisa 459 Rhineland, Southern 301-8 San Fermines 583 Snowdon 155 planning, see also individual Rhodes 360-1 San José 605 Snowdonia National Park countries Rhodes Town 360-1 155 San Sebastián 580-2 budgeting 22-3 Rías Altas 586 Soajo 539 Sanlúcar de Barrameda 603 calendar of events 28-31 Ring of Kerry 388-9 soccer 573 Santiago de Compostela family travel 642 Ring of Skellig 388 584-6 Sóller 591 internet resources 22-3 Riomaggiore 431 Santillana del Mar 583-4 Somme, the 204 itineraries 32-6 Rock of Cashel 386 Santorini 16, 350-3, 351, 16 Sorrento 470-2 travel seasons 22-3, 28-31 Rodalquilar 605 Sappho 365 Sougia 357 Western Europe basics Rodin, Auguste 178 Sarlat-la-Canéda 224-5 Spain 542-611, 544-5 22-3 Roman Forum 405-6, 420-1, Saxony 274-8 accommodation 542, 543 Platja des Coll Baix 591 13, 420-1 scams 646 climate 542 Plomari 366 Romantic Road, the 290-2 scenic drives 27 drinks 543 Pollença 591 Romantische Strasse 290-2 French Riviera 243 food 542, 543 Pompeii 468 Rome 12, 405-27, 406, 408- Grossglockner Road 67 highlights 544-5 Pont du Gard 231-2 9, 412-13 Ireland 388 itineraries 543 Ponte Vecchio 15 accommodation 414-18 Switzerland 615 tourist information 607-9 Portmagee 388 drinking & nightlife 423-4 S-chanf 636 travel to/from 543, 609 Porto 532-7, 534-5 entertainment 424-5 Schauinsland 301 travel within 609-11 Portstewart 397 food 418-22, 424 Scheveningen 498 Spanish Riding School 52 Portugal 510-41, football 425 512 Schilthorn 628 spas 299 accommodation 510, free attractions 407 Schleswig-Holstein 320-1 St Francis 463 511, 540 gelato 423 Schwarzwald 296, 299-301 St Goarshausen 305 drinks 511 shopping 425 Scotland 152, 156-69 Staatsoper 43, 51 food 510, 511 sights 405-14, 419, 420-1, money 173 Star Wars 388 highlights 512 422 Scuol 636 Stella Artois brewery 97 hiking 539 tourist information 425-6 Segovia 559-62 Stirling 165 itineraries 511 travel to/from 426 Segura y Las Villas 603 St-Jean-Cap Ferrat 243 LGBT+ travellers 540 travel within 426-7 senior travellers 643 St-Malo 207-8 money 540 Ronda 603 Seville 592-7, St Moritz 635 opening hours 540 Rothenburg ob der Tauber 594 291 Shakespeare, William Stockhorn 621 telephone services 541 Rothorn 621 Shakespeare’s Globe Stonehenge 136 travel seasons 510 Rotterdam 501-4 114-15 Strasbourg 211-12 travel to/from 511, 541 Royal Albert Hall 130, Stratford-upon-Avon Stratford-upon-Avon 142-5 travel within 541 11 Royal Shakespeare 142-5 Stresa 438 Positano 472 Company 144 Verona 439 Stromboli 470 Potter, Beatrix 151 Rüdesheim 306 Sicily 473-9 St-Tropez 244-5 Praiano 471 Siena 461-3 Stuttgart 296-8 Preveli Beach 359 Sierra de Grazalema 603 surfing 642 Provence 232-8 S Sigri 366 Swiss National Park 636 Sa Calobra 590 Pythagorio 364 Silves 525 Sachsenhausen 275 668 Switzerland 612-37, 614 tours 653 food 445-7, 449 Windsor 133-4 accommodation 612, 613 Tower of London 114 sights 440, 445 windsurfing 642 drinks 613 trains journeys, scenic 27 tourist information 449 wine 25 food 612, 613 France 222 travel to/from 449 Douro, the 533 highlights 614 Germany 288 travel within 444, 449-50 Porto 536 hiking 621, 626, 627, Switzerland 623, 627-8 Vermeer, Johannes 500 wineries

INDEX INDEX 628, 636 train travel 648, 653-4 Vernazza 430 Bordeaux 226-7 itineraries 613 tickets 654 Verona 439 Burgundy 217 money 636 travel money cards 645 Versailles 200-1 Champagne 208-10

S-Z opening hours 636 travel to/from Western Vézère Valley 224 Luxembourg 104  skiing 621, 626, 627, 635 Europe 648-9 Via Appia Antica 419 Woodstock 141 telephone services 636 travel within Western Europe Viana do Castelo 537-8 Wordsworth, William 152 tourist information 637 23, 649-55 Vianden 103-4 Würzburg 292 trekking, see hiking travel seasons 612 Vienna 12, 42-53, 44-5 WWI sites & museums Trevélez 603 travel to/from 613, 637 accommodation 48-9 Flanders 88 Trevi Fountain 410 travel within 637 activities 47-8 Somme, the 204 Triberg 300 Syracuse 478-9 drinking & nightlife 50-1 WWII sites & museums Trier 307-8 entertainment 51-2 Anne Frank Huis 487-8 Trossachs, the 165-6 festivals & events 48 Berlin bunkers 269 T tulips 497 Taormina 476-8 food 49-50 Dachau Concentration Tuscany 15, 451-63 tapas 555 shopping 52 Camp 287 Tyrol 63-7 Tarragona 576-8 sights 42-7 D-Day Beaches 205-6 Tate Britain 110 tourist information 52 Eagle’s Nest 289 Tavira 523-4 U tours 47-8 Holocaust Memorial 261 taxes 646 Úbeda 603 travel to/from 52-3 Kazerne Dossin 98 taxis 653 Umbria 451-63 travel within 53 Memorium Nuremberg Trials 293 Teatro alla Scala 437 Utrecht 504-6 Vienna Boys’ Choir 52 Moni Preveli 359 Teatro La Fenice 447-9 Vikos Gorge 344 Sachsenhausen 275 telephone services 23, 646 V Vila do Gerês 539 Teruel 580 Vaduz 633 visas 22, 647 Texel 506 Valais 621-2 Vlihada 351 X theft 646 Valencia 586-9 Xyloskalo 359 The Last Supper 433 Valldemossa 591 W Thessaloniki 342-6 Valley of the Temples 478 Wales 152, 153-5 Y Ticino 633-5 Van Gogh, Vincent 235, 489 Wallonia 98-9 York 147-9 time 22, 647 Vathy 363-4 Warwick 145 Ypres 87-9 Tinguely, Jean 632 Vatican Museums 410, 411 Waterloo 82 Yr Wyddfa 155 Tintin 81 Vaud 619-20 weather 22, 28-31 Titanic Belfast 395 vegetarian & vegan travellers websites 23 Tivoli 426 194, 643 Z weights 647 Zaanse Schans 491 Toledo 562-3 Venice 12, 28, 440-50, 441, Weihnachtsmärkte 295 Zagorohoria 344 Tomar 529-30 446, 448, 12 Weimar 278-9 Zahara de la Sierra 603 Torcello 444 accommodation 445 Wengen 627 Zaragoza 578-80 Toulouse 230 activities 444 Westminster Abbey 110 Zermatt 621-4 tourist information 647, see drinking & nightlife 447 Windermere 151-2 Zernez 636 also individual countries entertainment 447-9 windmills 491, 506 Zurich 628-32, Tournai 99 festivals & events 445 630

Map Pages 000 Photo Pages 000 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd 669

Map Legend

Sights Information Routes Beach Bank Tollway Bird Sanctuary Embassy/Consulate Freeway Buddhist Hospital/Medical Primary Castle/Palace Internet Secondary Christian Police Tertiary Confucian Post Office Lane Hindu Telephone Unsealed road Islamic Toilet Road under construction Jain Tourist Information Plaza/Mall Jewish Other Information Steps Monument Tunnel Museum/Gallery/Historic Building Geographic Pedestrian overpass Ruin Beach Walking Tour Shinto Gate Walking Tour detour Sikh Hut/Shelter Path/Walking Trail Taoist Lighthouse Winery/Vineyard Lookout Boundaries Zoo/Wildlife Sanctuary Mountain/Volcano International Other Sight Oasis State/Province Park Disputed Activities, Pass Regional/Suburb Courses & Tours Picnic Area Marine Park Bodysurfing Waterfall Cliff Diving Wall Canoeing/Kayaking Population Course/Tour Capital (National) Hydrography Sento Hot Baths/Onsen Capital (State/Province) River, Creek Skiing City/Large Town Intermittent River Snorkelling Town/Village Canal Surfing Water Swimming/Pool Transport Walking Airport Dry/Salt/Intermittent Lake Windsurfing Border crossing Reef Other Activity Bus Cable car/Funicular Areas Sleeping Cycling Airport/Runway Sleeping Ferry Camping Metro station Beach/Desert Hut/Shelter Monorail Cemetery (Christian) Parking Eating Petrol station Cemetery (Other) Eating S-Bahn/Subway station Glacier Taxi Drinking & Nightlife T-bane/Tunnelbana station Mudflat Drinking & Nightlife Train station/Railway Park/Forest Cafe Tram U-Bahn/Underground station Sight (Building) Entertainment Other Transport Sportsground Entertainment Swamp/Mangrove Shopping Shopping Note: Not all symbols displayed above appear on the maps in this book ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Contributing Writers & Researchers Isabel Albiston (Ireland) Kate Armstrong (Greece) Alexis Averbuck (France) Oliver Berry (Britain & France) Cristian Bonetto (Italy) Jean-Bernard Carillet (France) Fionn Davenport (Britain) Marc Di Duca (Britain, Germany & Portugal) Belinda Dixon (Britain) Anthony Ham (Germany) Paula Hardy (Italy) Damian Harper (Britain & France) Anita Isalska (France) Ali Lemer (Germany) Virginia Maxwell (The Netherlands) Hugh McNaughtan (Britain, France & Germany) Isabella Noble (Spain) John Noble (Spain) Lorna Parkes (Britain) Christopher Pitts (France) Leonid Ragozin (Germany) Kevin Raub (Portugal) Simon Richmond (Greece) Daniel Robinson (France) Brendan Sainsbury (Italy & Spain) Andrea Schulte-Peevers (Germany) Helena Smith (Belgium) Regis St Louis (Belgium, France & Portugal) Andy Symington (Britain) Benedict Walker (Belgium & Germany) Greg Ward (Britain & France) Mark Elliott Belgium (Ardennes; Northeast), The Netherlands (Southeastern; Utrecht) Mark Elliott had already lived and worked on five continents when, in the pre-­Internet dark ages, he started writing travel guides. He has since authored (or co-­ authored) around 60 books including dozens for Lonely Planet. He also acts as a travel consultant, occasional tour leader, video presenter, speaker, interviewer and blues harmonicist.

Duncan Garwood Italy, Portugal (The Beiras) From facing fast bowlers in Barbados to sidestepping hungry pigs in Goa, Duncan’s travels have thrown up many unique experienc- es. These days he largely dedicates himself to the Mediterranean and Italy, his adopted homeland where he’s been living since 1997. He’s worked on more than 30 Lonely Planet titles, including guidebooks to Rome, Sardinia, Sicily, Spain and Portugal, and has contributed to books on food and epic drives. He’s also written on Italy for newspapers, websites and magazines.

Korina Miller Greece Korina grew up on Vancouver Island and has been exploring the globe independently since she was 16, visiting or living in 36 countries and picking up a degree in Communications and Canadian Studies, an MA in Migration Studies and a diploma in Visual Arts en route. As a writer and editor, Korina has worked on nearly 60 titles for Lonely Planet and has also worked with lonelyplanet.com, BBC, The Independent, The Guardian, BBC5 and CBC, as well as many inde- pendent magazines, covering travel, art and culture. She has currently set up camp back in Victoria, soaking up the mountain views and the pounding surf.

Nicola Williams France (Atlantic Coast, Paris), The Netherlands (Central and Northeastern Netherlands) Border-hopping is a way of life for British writer, runner, foodie, art aficionado and mum-of-three Nicola Williams, who has lived in a French village on the southern side of Lake Geneva for more than a decade. Nicola has authored more than 50 guidebooks on Paris, Provence, Rome, Tuscany, France, Italy and Switzerland for Lonely Planet and covers France as a destination expert for the Telegraph. She also writes for the Independent, Guardian, lonelyplanet.com, Lonely Planet Mag- azine, French Magazine, Cool Camping France and others. Catch her on the road on Twitter and Instagram at @tripalong.

Neil Wilson Britain (Scotland) Neil was born in Scotland and has lived there most of his life. Based in Perthshire, he has been a full-time writer since 1988, working on more than 80 guidebooks for various publishers, including the Lonely Planet guides to Scotland, England, Ireland and Prague. An outdoors enthusiast since childhood, Neil is an active hill-walker, mountain-biker, sailor, snowboarder, fly-fisher and rock-climber, and has climbed and tramped in four continents, including ascents of Jebel Toubkal in Morocco, Mount Kinabalu in Borneo, the Old Man of Hoy in Scotland’s Orkney Islands ­and the Northwest Face of Half Dome in California’s Yosemite Valley. AOUR beat-up old STORY car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’. OUR WRITERS Catherine Le Nevez Plan and Survival Guide chapters, Britain (The Midlands), France (Paris; Lille & the Somme), Germany (Frankfurt & Southern Rhineland), Luxembourg, The Nether- lands (Amsterdam), Portugal (The Algarve) Catherine’s wanderlust kicked in when she road-tripped across Europe from her Parisian base aged four, and she’s been hitting the road at every opportunity since, travelling to some 60 countries and completing her Doctorate of Creative Arts in Writing, Masters in Professional Writ- ing, and postgrad qualifications in Editing and Publishing along the way. Over the past decade-and- a-half she’s written scores of Lonely Planet guides and articles covering Paris, France, Europe and far beyond. Her work has also appeared in numerous online and print publications.

Kerry Christiani Austria, France (Alsace & Lorraine; Champagne), Germany (Stuttgart & the Black Forest), Portugal (Porto), Switzerland Kerry is an award-winning travel writer, photographer and Lonely Planet author, specialising in Central and Southern Europe. Based in Wales, she has authored/co-authored more than a dozen Lonely Planet titles. An adventure addict, she loves mountains, cold plac- es and true wilderness. She features her latest work at https://its-a-small-world. com and tweets @kerrychristiani.

Gregor Clark France (Burgundy; Nice), Monaco, Portugal (the Douro & Trás-os-Montes; the Minho) Gregor Clark is a US-based writer whose love of foreign languages and curiosity about what’s around the next bend have taken him to dozens of coun- tries on five continents. Chronic wanderlust has also led him to visit all 50 states and most Canadian provinces on countless road trips through his native North America. Since 2000, Gregor has regularly contributed to Lonely Planet guides, with a focus on Europe and the Americas. Titles include Italy, France, Brazil, Costa Rica, Argen- tina, Portugal, Switzerland, Mexico, South America on a Shoestring, Montreal & Quebec City, France’s Best Trips, New England’s Best Trips, cycling guides to Italy and California and coffee-­ table pictorials such as Food Trails, The USA Book and The Lonely Planet Guide to the Middle of Nowhere.

OVER MORE PAGE WRITERS Published by Lonely Planet Global Limited CRN 554153 Although the authors and Lonely Planet have taken all reasona- 14th edition – October 2019 ble care in preparing this book, we make no warranty about the ISBN 978 1 78701 372 8 accuracy or completeness of its content and, to the maximum © Lonely Planet 2019 Photographs © as indicated 2019 extent permitted, disclaim all liability arising from its use. 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Printed in Singapore All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be copied, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, mechanical, recording or otherwise, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, and no part of this publication may be sold or hired, without the written permission of the publisher. Lonely Planet and the Lonely Planet logo are trademarks of Lonely Planet and are registered in the US Patent and Trademark Office and in other countries. Lonely Planet does not allow its name or logo to be appropriated by commercial establishments, such as retailers, restaurants or hotels. Please let us know of any misuses: lonelyplanet.com/ip. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

© Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’