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JEFFERSON COUNTY’S FIRST LIGHT RAIL

What Goes Around Comes Around Page 11 T H E J E F F E RS O N C O U N T Y H I S T O R I C A L C O M

Historic stone pylons mark the entrance to Lookout Mountain Park and the Lariat Loop (see story page 32). COMMISSION MEMBERS

Deborah Andrews Donald E. Ebner Liz Grady Jerry Grunska Max Haug Viona "Vi" Mae Hader ,JCHC 2000. JCHC 1990. JCHC 1981, JCHC 1999, JCHC 1997, Vice JCHC 1985. Committees 2001: Committee 2001: Parliamentarian and Corresponding Chair. Committees Committees 2001: Hall Chair Historic Grants Chair, Historic Historian. Secretary. 2001: Budget & of Fame, Education, Preservation. Preservation. Past Committees 2001: Committees 2001: Finance, Historic Festival of the West. Founder Andrews & Chair & Vice Chair, Procedures & By- Writers Award Chair, Preservation, Past Chair, Secretary, Anderson Hall of Fame, Writers laws, Writers Award. Education. Retired Nominating. Past Historian. Past Manager Architecture, Award, Place Names, Colorado native, English teacher and President Olde Town Golden Chamber of Historic restoration Historic Preservation has served sports referee, author Arvada Assoc, Arvada Commerce, Astor specialist since Committees. Retired many charitable of sports officiating Historical Society. House & Foothills Art 1983; lives in Mt. executive; lives in organizations; books; lives in Realtor; lives in Center; lives in Golden. Vernon Canyon. South Jeffco. lives in Lakewood. Evergreen. Arvada. M M I S S I O N JEFFERSON COUNTY HISTORICAL COMMISSION NEWS 2001

The second phase of the Cultural Resource Survey is underway.The field work will be prioritized so that the remaining mountain areas – Evergreen, North Mountain and Deer Creek/South Turkey Creek – are completed first. The funding is a cooperative effort with the County

Colorado Historical Commissioners providing special funds, and the JCHC SCIENTIFIC & CULTURAL Society — State FACILITIES DIST R I C T Historical Fund acquiring grant money through the Colorado Historical Fund and the Scientific and Cultural Finance District. All members of the commission were provided copies of the first phase and were asked to review and provide feedback to Cathleen Norman. The membership on the commission continues to change. Members Delbert Bishop, Kris Christensen, Scott Pierson and Kevin Rucker submitted their resignations during the year. Each one contributed greatly with guidance to our work of our commission. Kris and Kevin influenced the commission with their enthusiasm and experience with the State Historical Society and other historic preservation organizations. Charter member Jane Gardner and longtime member Ruth Richardson also retired from the commission.All these people will be missed. In May, five new members came on board,Tommy Raye and John Jenkins from the Golden area; Charles Hanson from Lakewood;Tim Montgomery from Arvada; and Joyce Weedon from South Jeffco.All these new appointees come with experience and great interest in preserving and providing the effort to accomplish the work of the commission. Different museums and historical societies continue to provide the monthly displays in the atrium of the Government Center, thanks to the efforts of the Education Committee. This committee also has made contacts with numerous writing groups and the teachers in Jefferson County R-1 schools to promote the Writers Award Contest.This resulted in a record number of entries in the youth category.The winning articles appear in this issue of HISTORICALLY JEFFCO. The Historic Preservation Committee has been extremely involved this year coordinating the contract and work for the second phase of the Cultural Resource Survey that began in August.The committee has worked diligently with various departments to provide options for Certified Local Government status to preserve historic sites in the county. Members of this committee continue to provide input to the County Planning Department on developments in the County and their historic merit. Commission members continue to serve as liaisons to their local historical societies. Max Haug has attended meetings of Rocky Flats Historical Group, and Tommy Raye and Carole Lomond attended the meetings of Lariat Loop partners, keeping the JCHC aware of historical activities throughout the county. (continued on page 45)

Postcard by C.T.American Art Card Cover photo courtesy Rocky Mountain Railroad Club

Charles Hanson Erlene Hulsey-Lutz Carole Lomond Larry Lotito Norman Meyer Tim Montgomery JCHC 2001. Place JCHC 1986. JCHC 1997. JCHC 1999, JCHC 1986. JCHC 2001. Names Committee. Committees 2001: Committees 2001: Recording Committee 2001: Committees: Grants, Architectural Hall of Fame Chair, Publications, Writers Secretary. Place Names. Past Hall of Fame. Active Historian, History Publication, Historic Award, Place Names, Committee 2001: Recording Secretary, in many Arvada Graduate student CU Preservation, Writers Procedures & By Laws, Writers Awards. Grants, Writers Award charitable & public Denver, Certified Award. Past Chair, Nominating. Publisher Retired U.S. Army Committees. Pilot, organizations, Public Accountant; Vice Chair, Secretary City & Mountain Views 1981, Weather rancher, journalist, including Arvada City lives in Lakewood. & Historian. 4th magazine and book: Officer in Europe developer. Much of Council, Plan & Zone generation Colorado. "Historical Tour of and Korea, civilian Meyer family ranch Commission. Certified Real Estate Broker; Lariat Loop Heritage career in Europe & now Jeffco Open Public Accountant & lives in Wheat Ridge. Area"; lives in Mt. US; lives in Space Park. Colorado Management Vernon Canyon. Arvada. Native; lives near Consultant; lives in Conifer. Arvada. Published by The Jefferson County Historical Commission Volume 14, Issue 22, 2001 ISSN 1532-6047 CONTENTS

Shaffer’s Crossing: A Moment in Time 4 ......

Car 25 Where areYou? What Goes Around Comes Around 11

County of Vivian 14

Wild,Wild Edgewater . . . . . 22......

Amazing Jefferson County Historical Sites 24 ......

Saint Francis Xavier Cabrini 28

The Tower Farms of Lookout Mountain 30

A Postcard Adventure Along the Lariat Loop 32 ......

Standish Penton, Jr. Rita Peterson Jack Raven Tommy D. Raye Marcetta Rhoades- JCHC 1999. JCHC 1981, Chair. JCHC 1997. Past Chair, JCHC 2001. Lutz 2001 Committees: Vice Chair 1999- Recording Secretary. Committees: JCHC 1987. Publication, Publication 2000. Committees Committees 2001: Historic Committees 2001: Distribution, 2001: Procedures & Publication Distributions Preservation, Writers Historic Preservation, Education. Owner of By-Laws, Budget & Chair; Education Chair, Award. Chemical Place Names Co-chair. Normandy Farms, Finance. American Procedures & By-laws Chair, engineer consultant Past Chair Place member of Colorado Cancer Society and Hall of Fame. President for construction and Names Committee. Horsemen’s Council Senior Resource Arvada Historical Society, natural resources JCHC Hall of Fame and Denver Westerners; Center boards. Real Arvada Lions Club, Arvada industries; lives in honoree 1996. lives in South Jeffco. estate appraiser; lives Cemetery Association. Mt. Vernon Canyon. Committee chair for in Lakewood. Retired Safeway Manager; three Arvada history lives in Arvada. books; lives in Wheat Ridge. Jefferson County Historic Hall of Fame Ebner 36 Vivian 32

The Benefits of Historic Designation 38 Historic Designations in Jefferson County: Rio Grande Engine No. 20 39 Denver & Rio Grande Caboose...... N. .o. . . 05. . 78. . . . . 40...... Bradford House II Archaeological Site 41

Historical Museums in Jefferson County: The Hildebrand Ranch 41 The International Bell Museum 42

Resources for Historic Preservation Colorado Historical Society Grants Overview 43 44 .Bar . . .n . .A . g.ain! ...... Colorado Centennial Farms Program 45 ......

JCHC Publications Committee Carole Lomond, Chair; Erlene Hulsey-Lutz, Vice-Chair; John Jenkins, Standish Penton, Milly Roeder, Editor of Historically Jeffco Historically Jeffco Layout and Design by Fine Print Brochures & Photography Golden, CO

Milly Roeder Richard Simmons Joyce Weedon JCHC Staff JCHC Staff JCHC 1995. Committees JCHC 1997, JCHC 2001. Duncan Susan 2001: Publication, Treasurer. Committees: McCollum Casteleneto Historic Preservation, Committees 2001: Education, Hall of Jefferson County Archives & Hall of Fame. Editor of Budget & Finance Fame, Historic Archives & Records Historically Jeffco since Chair, Procedures Preservation. Former Records Manager Management 1997. Eng/Ger. transl. & By-laws. Pilot, member Historical & since 1993. secretary since consultant for Urban flight instructor, Architectural Sites 1995. Design; Colorado Manager & Commission and Historical Society Principal other community OAHP; historical Sunamerica organizations in researcher; grants writer; Securities; lives in Decatur, Illinois; lives lives in Lakewood. Arvada. in South Jeffco. Sheep herded through Shaffer’s Crossing make their way toward the stock yards in Denver in 1920. S H A F F E R ’ S C R O S S I N G : A M O M E N T I

By Karen Land Cranford had as many as three names before year. Along with trading horses, 1st Place Adult Winner “Shaffer’s Crossing” finally stuck. the family business also included JCHC 2001 Writers’ Contest Harold Warren says it was farming, threshing, milling and common for rural places to be cutting railroad ties. Eventually To the driver passing by, Shaffer’s named for a school, a post office they ran the store and dance hall. Crossing on Highway 285 may or a stage stop.1 The name Shaffer’s Crossing came hardly seem worth a second The first mention of a building about because it marked the area glance. There is a sign along the in this area in the 1860s was the on Shaffer’s property where the road, several old buildings, an wayside stop St. Louis House and old stagecoach route crossed Elk exercise gym and a very popular the Omaha House. The place was Creek.4 When Shaffer decided he fishing pond. Beyond that, most reported as a ranch and post office wanted a town on this spot, he people may not know about the called Willowville by 1880.2 gave away parcels of land to bustling little community that Shaffer’s Crossing was next “anyone who would build a existed here at the turn of the last called Urmston. In 1902, the town house.” century. It wasn’t an easy way of had a grocery, tobacco store and The Shaffer house was “L”- life, but there were businesses and blacksmith. The name of Belleville shaped with the grocery and homes, dances and weddings, perhaps predated Willowville.3 general merchandise store in the churches and cattle ranches, births Samuel A. Shaffer moved his long part of the “L,” which no and deaths. family from Wyoming in 1902 and longer exists. It sat just over the This peaceful mountain valley started a horse ranch the same hill behind the “octagonal” barn.

-4- Shaffer’s store was known to have May returned Bible and picture to Old timers remember the “everything from a needle to a the Church with the agreement wonderful dances held at Shaffer’s threshing machine.” that the two items stay with the Crossing. People would ride up in The beautiful Methodist church for as long as it exists.5 wagons and dance all night. Leon Episcopal Church was built in The Long family also owned the and Madge Legault, whose families 1881. Long time residents Rudy beautiful historical Clifton House homesteaded in Pleasant Park, and May Long were the last on the east side of 285, across recalled the night they won a prize couple to be married there with from the Long Garage. It was for their waltz. Rudy and May five hundred people attending. home to Rudy Long’s Long reminisced about walking to Years later it was discovered that grandmother, mother and father Shaffer’s Crossing on Saturday the church had been built on and Rudy and his siblings. It nights and dancing in the Shaffer’s property. A clause in boasted of being ‘well built, being Urmston Grange Hall, which still their deed allowed the church to one of the first to be lathed and stands in the meadow today. Often remain on their land until plastered’ and was also the first to there was more dancing after meetings were no longer held have a bath tub, although water church, wrapping up just in time there. It would revert back to the was carried to it. It housed the for dinner. owners. When the Shaffer heirs first telephone station in the area Joe Hill, the mail carrier out of had sold the property to Virgil for 30 years until 1921. Charlie Pine, also talked fondly of the Eden and the church was going to Long, Rudy’s father, worked for dances at Shaffer’s Crossing. “They be torn down, May Long’s the telephone company and had a cupola building at Shaffers grandmother was the last living helped string the first line from Crossing. I bet I danced a trustee and asked that the Bible Denver to Leadville. Visitors thousand miles around that thing, and Christ’s picture be retrieved constantly arrived at their front just round and round. The Grange for her. Later, when the Conifer door to use the only available line used to meet there. We formed a Community Church organized, into Denver.6 little club, I don’t know what

Shaffer’s Crossing photos T I N T I M E Shaffer’s Crossing in 1926 as seen from Highway 285. courtesy of Peggy Stock.

-5- Grocery store and garage owned by George and May Brunskill. you’d call it, and charged for our robbers and other outlaws.” While and hightailed it from the hold-up dances and bought a player piano that sounds exciting, very little spot to Charlie Long’s barn. and that furnished our music . . . evidence would back up such Charlie was milking when the Then we had two musicians that claims. Harold Warren says that robber arrived with his tuckered came to the country. First was people didn’t have a whole lot horse. He jumped off, grabbed Isham Jones.”7 back then that could be stolen, another one without Charlie’s Isham Jones, the famous and a lot of the stories we hear permission and was off again. The musician and jazz band leader of tend to be exaggeration. The only story goes that the crook hid the Jones’ Juniors, moved to Shaffer’s documented outlaw episode to be treasure somewhere in the Elk Crossing in the late 1930’s after found involved Charlie Long of Creek area of the mountains. No retiring from touring and recording the Clifton House. The Denver- one has ever claimed to have in 1936. His ranch was at the end Leadville stage was held up one found it, so it may still be there. of Parker Avenue and it was here day by a bandit in the Turkey The history of Shaffer’s Crossing that he composed the popular hit Creek area. The thief made off wouldn’t be complete without also tune, “It Had To Be You.” Rumor with all the money and a horse telling its stories of tragedy. One has it that Woody Herman and many other jazz greats played 8 at the Crossing as well. Art Shaffer’s Crossing, early 1930s. Castle built a place at Shaffer’s Crossing and his plan was to raise chickens. Castle’s theme song was “Castles in the Air.” The building was not quite finished when it caught fire and put an end to his dream.9 The name “Shaffer’s Crossing,” was submitted to the clerk at the Colorado History Museum, but produces nothing more than the phrase . . . “a favorite rendezvous for stage

-6- such tale remains a mystery to this killing occurred in the tranquil should I say mailperson? Lila day: the murder of Mr. and Mrs. mountain town. This famous Shaffer was born Claudia Daisy Robert Standering. Harold Warren altercation took place where the Peckham in 1882. She married at a recalls that on a Sunday evening in trout pond now stands on the young age to escape an abusive November 1884, “Mr. Standering north side of Highway 285 and the stepmother; but the man she answered a knock on the door of Shaffer name would be involved. married was even meaner when he the cabin and was met with a blast In August of that year, the drank. She left, changed her name, from a shotgun loaded with slugs Colorado Transcript reported that and married Rollo Shaffer, one of that hit him squarely in the chest.” “25-year-old Bert Shaffer killed a Samuel’s sons, in 1914. From then Death was on she was Lila instantaneous. D. Shaffer. Her Mrs. job delivering Standering had mail began already gone to when mail bed but tried carrier Robert to get up when E. Kinney was she heard the called into gun. “As she service during arose, the World War I. assassin placed When no man the muzzle of was available the shotgun for the against her position, she breast and took over. fired, killing Except when her instantly.” she was sick And if that once during the wasn’t enough, flu epidemic Photo courtesy of Hiwan Homestead Museum. “The assassin Store and home of Samuel and Sarah Jane Shaffer, known as Shaffer’s Crossing Road she never fired a bullet Ranch. It was located on the hill south of the creek and east of the road. missed a trip. from a .44 Postal caliber pistol into the woman’s timberman named Grant McQuery regulations in those days didn’t head and three more shots into in self-defense.” McQuery allow for delivery of the mail by Mr. Standering’s back just to make apparently accused the Shaffer automobile, but Mrs. Shaffer used sure they were dead.” John boys, Bert and Charlie, of stealing their horseless carriage anyway. She Carruthers, a homesteader and some of his railroad ties which decided to give up the job when it neighbor of the Standerings, was they denied. After calling Bert a became too much for her. feuding with the couple at the ‘vile name’ and ‘striking him with Joseph A. Hill took over the time, so he was considered a a piece of iron pipe,’ McQuery route as a temporary carrier and suspect. However, he was soon throws a ‘heavy stone at the boy’, received permanent status in 1920. cleared of the charges by proving striking him in the jaw. Bert grabs The route was then 21.5 miles long that he was at a wedding in his rifle and shoots and kills and served 48 families. It grew to Denver, and had also broken his McQuery instantly. He was 51.9 miles and 200 families when leg in an accident the same night. acquitted at his trial held in he retired in 1967. The Post Office Another man named Burke, who Golden, but dad sent both boys authorized the use of automobiles lived near Pine, was also arrested in away to Wyoming to prevent in 1924. Joe delivered more than connection with the 1884 murder further feuds with the McQuerys. just mail. His wife, Olive recalled but was later released.10 Another Shaffer soon would he ‘supplied groceries on occasion, It would be 1907 before the next become the area’s mailman . . . or delivered urgent messages and

-7- shared a warm friendship from a mountain with his rural customers.’ resident who said he There was also a lot of was watching strange moving in the Shaffer’s lights in the sky over Crossing area . . . and I the Pine-Shaffer’s mean, real moving. May Crossing area. Not Long tells of a family who only did Fitzpatrick discovered they had built see the object as he their house on someone drove along Highway else’s property. So they just 285 toward Conifer, ‘shoved the house back so did Joe Cope who down over the hill’.11 The had taken out his school next to Long’s binoculars. The house was ‘moved to description was of Shaffer’s Crossing’. The an object, some 8,000 Archie Brisco family had a to 10,000 feet above house in Shaffer’s Crossing the mountains which in a swamp. While that colored from amber might have been their first to white and back to mistake, they certainly amber. Within this learned to make the best of glow were red, some- it by moving the piano on times green, and blue a weekly basis from one lights with no apparent end of the house to the Photo courtesy of Harold Warren. blinking pattern. Cope other to balance out its Methodist Episcopal Church — early 1930s; built in 1881. said it hovered 30 to 45 sinking side. minutes over what he Some of the buildings one time or another, this building thought was Shaffer’s and homes in Shaffer’s Crossing had been a garage, a store, a bar Crossing, faded for half an hour, disappeared over the years because and a cafe. Once it was even then reappeared approximately of progress, specifically, roads owned briefly by Isham Jones.12 above Tiny Town. About 3 AM it being built in the area. Harold The years took their toll on the was gone. Two nights later, at 3:45 Warren says some buildings had to area and soon what had existed AM, Cope woke up, looked out be torn down because they weren’t was relegated to ‘ghost town’ the window and saw the glowing built on foundations. One home status. But in February 1974, a object again. The deputy burned to the ground along with reserve officer with the Jefferson dispatched to the Conifer area saw the family’s school books that County Sheriff’s Office brought nothing, but two deputies went to their son kept at home when he the Shaffer’s Crossing name back Cope’s Lakehurst home, and with was ill with spinal meningitis. to the headlines by claiming to his son they all watched the object And on April 1, 1965, a historic have made a half dozen sightings until just before daybreak when it building and connecting businesses of a strange object hovering over faded away. There was never an burned “practically to the what he guessed to be Shaffer’s explanation for the strange lights ground.” The Fairplay Flume Crossing! Joseph Cope was not a and object; but Lt. Bill Flint of the reported that the structure caught UFO fanatic, far from it. As he Jefferson County Sheriff’s Office fire at 5:20 AM. The custodian always did, he was also monitoring said Cope and the deputies who immediately notified the Elk the Sheriff’s channel on his radio were with Cope that night made Creek Fire Department. They had scanner on this particular Saturday three triangulations of flight 27 men respond within minutes. It night. The dispatcher gave an pattern in the Pine Junction- only took an hour to control, but assignment to Deputy Ken Shaffer’s Crossing area to the the building was a total loss. At Fitzpatrick to check out a report Conifer-Tiny Town area and then

-8- closer to the filled? A telephone clicks as its call plains over the is instantaneously put through to Mt. Morrison its destination. Or is that the click Area and of a party line from when concluded that neighbors would hope to catch “On a clear night, the latest gossip of the area? there was no It’s still there . . . and to the possibility of light- blinded eye would Shaffer’s cloud reaction,” Crossing hardly seem worth a Flint adds.13 Will second glance. we ever know? These days, kids and adults sit at the popular trout 1 Interview with Harold Warren 4/21/01 pond on the 2 Warren, Harold, Bits and Pieces of History north side of Along The 285 Corridor, pp.19-20 3 Bentley, Margaret V., The Upper Side of Highway 285 and the Pie Crust, p.19 giggle and laugh 4 Karber, Jennifer, “Shaffer’s Crossing Has Interesting History,” Courier Chronicles, as they catch what November 16, 1994 they imagine to 5 Bentley, pp. 169, 171, 184, 187 be the biggest fish 6 Crain, Mary Helen, “Historic Clifton House,” Canyon Courier, November 27, ever! Or was that 1958 a giggle from a 7 Bentley, pp. 129, 183, 298 8 moment in time Photo taken in 1922 shows the Grange Hall where the Karber, J. “More on Shaffer’s Crossing,” school and Fire Department met. It still stands today. It is Courier Chronicles, November 23, 1994 when kids would 9 try to peak into also known as the octagonal building or the Urmston school. Bentley, pp.31-32 10 Bentley, pp. 170, 197, 314-316 the windows of 11 “Fire at Shaffer’s Crossing,” Fairplay the Grange Hall to see who’s Or is that the crunch of a buggy Flume, Thursday, April1, 1965 12 dancing with whom? The mailman wheel from a moment in time “There’s Something Over the Foothills- But What?” Lakewood Sentinel, drives up in his clean, boxy white when 25 mail boxes sat at Shaffer’s February 7, 1974 truck with an arm load of stuff. Crossing waiting and hoping to be

ABOUT THE AUTHOR southern Colorado and was named Karen Land Cranford spent twelve one of fifty Outstanding Working years in the broadcasting industry Women by Colorado’s Council on during which time she and her Working Women. She is also a past husband owned and operated radio president of the Englewood BPW. stations in Colorado and Nebraska. She was selected Miss Colorado She won numerous awards for her 1976 and still travels the country as news stories and commercials, and a judge.Today she is a full-time mom she spent a years as TV news anchor to her eight- year-old son, Cory, is for the ABC affiliate in Kearney, NE. involved in PTA and works as a Karen is past chairman of the Board freelance writer. She and her for Mt. San Rafael hospital in husband,Tony, live in Morrison.

-9- EDITOR’S NOTE Getting around in Colorado and Jefferson County a recurring theme in this year’s magazine

By Milly Roeder southern parts of Colorado.They are described in “A Postcard The ways we move around in on display at the Colorado Railroad Adventure: A Day in the Colorado and Jefferson County are Museum to be enjoyed by curious Mountains Along the Lariat Loop.” constantly changing.The Natives of visitors. Car No. 25, being restored Individual travel by car, however, this region and the first European at the Denver Federal Center, recalls evolved into today’s often hectic explorers and trappers used first the first half of the 20th century daily commute to the city and their own feet, then horses, to travel when the Interurban Line between pleasure trips to the mountains in from one place to another. Along Denver and Golden carried people traffic resembling rush hour. Our with horses, burros facilitated the of many different backgrounds to article,“Car #25 where are you? transportation of goods, and loggers work in the city and home again What Goes Around comes sent their lumber floating down the at night via trolley. One prominent Around” describes the history of rivers.With the advent of the passenger who made the daily the Interurban Line. Maybe the railroad, people traveled to more commute in the popular yellow cars revival of this route as the future distant destinations for business and was the late Colorado Governor light-rail along the 13th Avenue pleasure, and the cumbersome and John C.Vivian. His life and that right-of-way will bring some time consuming process of hauling of his father, John F.Vivian, former Jefferson County residents a freight and lumber on animals and mayor of Golden, is presented here calmer and safer commute, rafts was left behind forever. in “County of Vivian.” allowing us to use our commuting Several articles in this year’s By mid century, the easy time more productively reading a Historically Jeffco give us a taste of availability of the automobile book or visiting with other riders. different ways people have travelled displaced commuter trains. Pleasure For more information about the in Colorado and Jefferson County. Rio trips by car along such routes as proposed light rail, visit the RTD Grande Southern Railroad Engine the historic Lariat Loop brought West Corridor Office at 8790 W. No. 20 and the Caboose No. 0578 escape from the city and the fresh Colfax Ave. or RTD’s website at recall the past of passenger and air of the foothills. A fictional www. RTD-Denver.com. freight transportation throughout the account of such a pleasure trip is

INTERURBAN TROLLEY RT. 84 DENVER TO GOLDEN

-10- CAR NO. 25 WHERE ARE YOU? WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND

Photos courtesy Rocky Mountain Railroad Club Car 25 going into Golden at Ford and Jackson Streets with St. Joseph Church in the background.

by Jerry Grunska there were trains. Before there was 80-90 lbs per yard on standard It may be hard for a citizen to light rail there was heavy rail. gauge tracks (4'8” wide). visualize rails and steam engines in Tracks of narrow gauge railroads Several lines extended west the countryside and on city weighed 60 lbs per yard, whereas and northwest like spokes from streets, but before there were autos more substantial rails hefted at downtown Denver out to Golden,

-11- Leyden, and to Boulder. They were Sheridan Boulevard; Devinny at built in the 1880s and 1890s, to Wadsworth; Smith at Garrison; carry freight and passengers to and Bee Hive at Kipling; Daniels at from outlying communities, coal Simms Street; Wide Acres at from Leyden and produce from Orchard Road; Landon Hills farms beyond the city. One where Colfax crosses, aiming standard gauge line went through southwest; Industrial School in Arvada between North and South Golden; and 13th Street Terminus Table Mountains. in Golden. Another route, No. 84, pulled The line was electrified in 1909, into Lakewood Gulch at the South and by then a viaduct had been Platte River, near where the Zuni built to carry trolleys across the Power Plant now stands. This line South Platte River and into the wound its way from Denver to “Loop” around Arapahoe and 13th Avenue from where it Curtis Streets, between 13th and continued and struck through 14th Streets.1 All tramways in today’s Denver West Shopping Denver connected at this point. Center, crossing over a southwest “The interurban line to Golden bearing Colfax Avenue. It then was more than just a mode of went through Camp George West, travel; it was a social institution. where the only station remains, a Youngsters rode to school on it, stone arched protective shelter. including college students headed Old Golden Road into Golden for Colorado School of Mines.”2 is on the bed of this rail Route Doctors, nurses, attorneys, No. 84. teachers, engineers, newspaper This 13.1 mile route featured 15 employees, and other city workers original stops, basically at major traveled from rural communities to road crossings, moving through the city each day. The Wide Acres Lakewood before skirting South station was placed at Colfax and Table Mountain and then bending Orchard Road so Governor John Capitol with one transfer at the northwest into downtown Golden. C. Vivian could board a car Loop.3 Soldiers often packed the Some of the stops were Barnum without having to walk very far cars to reach Camp George West. Junction west of Federal from his house. He became a Stations were wooden shelters Boulevard; County Line at “strap-hanger” cruising to the State beside the tracks. The station shelter of Wide Acres can now be No. 25 at the Interurban Loop in downtown Denver. The Mountain States Telephone & Telegraph Company building in the background. seen at the Lakewood Heritage Center. One car has been rescued from the original 317 built by the Woeber Car Company of Denver. Car Number 25 is being restored by the Rocky Mountain Railroad Historical Foundation at the Federal Center in Lakewood, the former Remington Arms plant, where a spur of Route No. 84 led into that facility. This car has been stripped of its Tramway yellow and repainted in the original forest green. Its four 50hp motors have

-12- -12- line may rise again, at least part way. The tracks were never taken up completely. A remnant still exists along the South Platte, with one car running as a tourist novelty - also shuttling Bronco football fans to the stadium from distant parking lots on game days. Cross 13th Avenue on Garrison, Carr, Sheridan or any other north- south thoroughfares and the tracks still show through the weeds. Currently there is a proposal to use this right-of-way for a commuter line, the popular RTD Light Rail zipping along old Route 84 as far as Simms. After slumbering for half a century, car 25's former steady path may witness resurrection.

1 Forrest, Kenton , Take a Ride, 76 Stories of Lakewood, 1976, pp. 124-125 and Kenton Forrest, Lakewood’s Public Transit, Lakewood-Colorado, An Illustrated Biography, Patricia Wilcox, editor, published by Lakewood 25th Birthday Commission, 1994, pp.145-146 2 Darrell Arndt, Slide Show Narration, Route 84 trolley car shown crossing the South Platte River. Rocky Mountain Railroad Historical Foundation 3 been rebuilt, rattan seats my bundle of papers every Martha N. Martin, personal morning from the Wadsworth communication, September 2001 refurbished, all interior wood 4 Darrell Arndt, personal communication, paneling refinished, and even the stop on the Interurban,” said September 2001 bell, horn, and a massive headlight retired supermarket manager Jack 4 put in working order. It runs and Raven recently. Trains ran from has been outside the shed for trial 6AM til midnight daily, and the excursions. single car beneath the overhead Darrell Arndt, project chairman wires could reach a for the Interurban No. 25 speed of 60 mph on Car 25 near Golden. Restoration Project, says that the straightaway past conductors used to tease the Kipling Street. The drivers of the newfangled horseless trip to Golden took carriages when they first came out 40 minutes. The in the early 1900s. “Conductors entire operation shut would slow down when they down along with spotted an auto approaching an Denver streetcars in intersection so that the flivver 1950, never to run would have to stop and let the again. Cars sold for electric car pass.” “When I was a scrap; gone, but not boy delivering the Denver Post on forgotten. my bike in the forties, I picked up But hold on. The

-13- Wide Acres tram stop.The Vivians reportedly had the stop placed at Wide Acres to accommodate John C.Vivian, who rode the trolley to his Denver law office. “County of Vivian”

by Martha N. Martin terms. Governor John C. Vivian is which transformed the state 2nd Place Winner the only Colorado Governor from from an economy based heavily JCHC 2001 Writers’ Contest Jefferson County. From 1939-1943 on mining to an industrial During the early half of the 20th he served two terms as lieutenant manufacturing economy. Rocky century, Jefferson County was governor under Ralph Carr, and Mountain Arsenal is a prime known as the “County of Vivian” as governor from 1943-1947. His example of military industrial- because of the Republican legacy is not well covered because ization and because of its lasting influence of John F. Vivian and his two terms as governor are impact, a major event during his son in local politics and chronicled as quiet years.1 Governor Vivian’s two terms. government. John F. Vivian was However, as lieutenant governor The Vivians were ambitious the mayor of Golden from 1901- and governor during these years, men. Each held numerous political 1908 and his son, John C. Vivian, Vivian witnessed military develop- offices during his career and left was a Colorado Governor for two ments in Colorado during WWII lasting impressions at all levels of -14- stalwart in Jefferson County. sale of alcoholic beverages, was While still a young man, he had repealed in the early 1930s.7 driven a wagonload of Republicans In Arvada history the Vivians five miles to cast their votes. are considered one of the pioneer Political success meant getting families to settle in Ralston Valley every Republican vote possible. and the mining communities of Throughout his lifetime he served Clear Creek and Gilpin Counties. on Republican Party committees John Frederick Vivian was born at all levels. This leadership was December 9th, 1864 to Joseph and instrumental in vaulting his son Mary Tressidder Vivian in Phoenix to the Colorado Statehouse, Mine, Houghton County, and to the election of Senator Michigan. His father died before Guggenheim.4 Democrats joked a his mother’s move to Central City pass was needed to enter Jefferson in 1867, where they lived until County during John F. Vivian’s 1879. His mother married Robert reign. He is considered the last Bunney who had been seeking his Political Machine Boss in the fortune in the mining fields since state of Colorado and Jefferson 1864. Together they bought a County.5 ranch in Ralston Valley near the In addition to his appointment Churches, Higgins and Tucker as Postmaster of Golden under families. Many of the early President Benjamin Harrison,6 his pioneers in this area, including the federal appointments included one Vivians, were natives of Cornwall, by President Theodore Roosevelt England. as United States Surveyor General The Bunney’s 1,600 acre ranch for Colorado, U.S. Surveyor of was located between Quaker Street Customs, and Registrar of the and Highway 93 north of 64th State Board of Land Commis- Avenue at the base of present day sioners. While serving in this post, Arvada Reservoir along Ralston Photo courtesy of Vivian added a clause to contracts Creek. The surrounding area, Colorado Railroad Museum selling state lands that allowed the which until recently was home to state to retain all prairie dogs and Governor John C.Vivian government. At the local level, in mineral rights. Dan and Donna Howes’ collection. hawks, is addition to being elected four In 1923 he presently times and serving three terms as was assigned undergoing mayor of Golden, John F. Vivian as federal a series of served as the Postmaster of Golden prohibition developments and Clerk and Recorder for director for beginning with Jefferson County.2 In 1898 he was Colorado. Two the now denied a bid for the office of years later, he completed county commissioner in Jefferson was promoted Jefferson County County, a defeat attributed to his to prohibition Public School backing the Silver Republican administrator District’s North Party at the National Convention and served in Area Athletic in 1896. The Republican Party that capacity Complex. split over the gold standard issue until 1933. John F. Vivian and many went to the Democratic The 18th moved to ticket.3 Amendment, Golden’s north By the early 1900s, John F. banning side “Dog Town” Vivian was known as a Republican production and when he was in -15- Dan and Donna Howes’ collection Governor Vivian’s mansion, Orchard Road,Wide Acres. his early 20s, briefly dabbled in In 1886 John F. Vivian married Alumni Association and organized the grocery business with Seth Addie Emma Higgins, one of the many of the early social events. He Lake, and owned a men’s clothing first children born to white settlers attended the University of store on Washington Avenue for in Ralston Valley. They bought a Colorado, received his law degree several years. From 1899 until 1902 house at 1006 16th Street, known from the University of Denver in he organized and managed the as “College Avenue,” where they 1913, and was admitted to the bar Golden Milling Company in the lived until Addie’s death in 1938. that same year. While at the renovated Buckman Mill building. Addie was interested in University of Colorado, he was a Golden’s Peery family subsequently conservation and housed a large drummer in the band and served purchased the property. The collection of native Colorado as band director during his senior Golden Milling Company survives plants in her Golden home. The year. During his undergraduate today as the Golden Mill on Ford family fought legal battles for years he was interested in the and Water Streets. Ed Ramstetter years to protect the property,8 sporting rivalry between the CU has owned the business since the but eventually it was demolished and Colorado School of Mines mid 1980s. He remembers the in the 1940s along with other football teams. Although not cited three-story mill building which homes to complete Kadafar as the reporter of any articles, stood where his parking lot is Commons on the Colorado numerous sources indicate that he today. According to Ramstetter, School of Mines Campus.9 was a writer for a Boulder paper the mill ditch serviced many mills John Charles Vivian was born during his college years. His work in the area and ran through the July 30, 1887 and graduated from in newspapers and journalism parking lot near the front entrance. Golden High School in 1905. during this time included the After a child drowned in the ditch, Shortly after his high school position of state editor for the it was closed. The Golden Milling graduation, John C. was Denver Times.10 He told a Company building was torn down instrumental in forming the first reporter once that his most prized in the 1950s. successful Golden High School possession was a pair of shears

-16- given to him while serving in that division of the armed forces dating was a frequent performer at capacity engraved “J.C.Vivian, State back to the American Revolution. Guggenheim Hall in Golden. Editor, Times.”11 The department was then During WW II, she entertained the Most of the political organized under the title of Judges troops convalescing at Fitzsimons appointments and elected offices Advocates Department of the Army Hospital. John and Maude of his career stemmed from his law Officers Reserve Corps. He retired were active in promoting the background. From 1913-1914 he performing arts in Denver, and was assigned as Special Counsel to sponsored music day once a week the Denver City Attorney’s office in the Golden schools. John C. settling cases relating to the 1912 Vivian was an accomplished pianist Cherry Creek flood. He served as and the couple often entertained County Attorney for Jefferson in their Wide Acres mansion County from 1922-1932, while designed by famed Colorado concurrently serving as City architect Frederick Mountjoy. Attorney for Golden from 1922- Wide Acres subdivision was 1925. His Golden law office was in considered an exclusive area. The the Ruby Building on 12th and Vivians were perceived as snobbish Washington Avenue. From 1925- because they chose to live outside 1929 he was Special Assistant the city. After Maude’s death in to the Attorney General for the 1950s, her husband set up a Colorado. He also served as scholarship fund in her name at Special Hearing Officer for the the University of Denver.15 U.S. Justice Department during The Vivians’ alliance with the 12 the 1920s. WW I draft and The Denver Independent Ku Klux Klan during the 1920s is enlistment records in the Governor John F. Vivian in the early 1900’s turned an interesting and debatable issue. Vivian Collection at the Golden Jefferson County into a Republican The weekly meetings were held stronghold. Democrats joked a pass was Pioneer Museum reveal that John needed to enter Jefferson County. near present day Heritage Square C. Vivian and his younger brother and on South Table Mountain not Chauncey H. Vivian enlisted in the in 1948 after serving more than far from Wide Acres, where the Marine Corps on the same day. twenty years at the rank of younger Vivian began building his John petitioned to enter officers’ captain.13 Undoubtedly, this mansion in 1927. Although not training but the war concluded commission enabled him to considered a member, the Klan before this change in service could rescind the draft for thirty supported John C. Vivian during be made. He was a charter young Delta men during his his candidacy for governor in member of the American Legion service at the Statehouse. It 1926. The senior Vivian discounted Post in Golden and served as post was unprecedented for a governor the Klan’s endorsement and commander in the 1920s. The to have the power to take on the focused his campaign on Marine Corps was always of federal draft. Later, John C. Vivian continued success in his role as special interest to John C. Vivian served as Special Hearing Officer Federal Prohibition Administrator and throughout his life he actively on the Selective Service Act for Colorado and the Western sought recognition through the Commission, and the Hoover States of New Mexico, Wyoming, Marine Corps Legion for the men Commission twice during the Utah and Arizona. The Ku Klux who served in the Corps. The 1950s.14 Klan of the 1920s was concerned Marine Corps Memorial near In 1925 John C. Vivian married with lawlessness in general, Golden was dedicated after he Maude Kleyn, a music professor bootlegging and bootleggers died in 1964. from Michigan. After their specifically, making Vivian the After WW I he joined the wedding, she continued her career logical candidate to back. Vivian Army’s Judge Advocates as professor of voice and music lost the Republican nomination to Department, a legal counsel at the University of Denver, and former Governor Oliver H. Shoup

-17- by 13,000 votes. Shoup’s anti-Klan nine, senior Vivian was too old to absences. Under Carr, Vivian platform reflected the Klan’s loss hold a public office, and age actively promoted the purchase of of favor since the 1924 election requirements deemed him war bonds to finance the war when pro-Klan candidate Clarence ineligible to take the Civil Service effort. His 1942 campaign Morley was elected governor. test. In a gracious letter to Bradley, speeches maintained Vivian’s goal Secretary of State Carl S. Milliken, John F. Vivian rescinded his was to keep Colorado quiet a former Klansman, was a third nomination for an appointment through the war’s duration.21 candidate whose During purpose in running WWII, was to compromise Governor votes from KKK Vivian saw the members and non- development members who would of Rocky support the secret Mountain society. He garnished Arsenal and 15,000 votes. other military Democrat William installations Adams of Pueblo throughout the won the election and state. Rosehill the Ku Klux Klan was German POW ousted from camp at the Colorado politics.16 Arsenal and John C. Vivian’s the Amache 1942 Republican Japanese gubernatorial Relocation Western History Dept., Denver Public Library nomination is Camp at John F. Vivian from 1899 until 1902 organized and managed the Golden Milling considered a “closed Company in the renovated Buckman Mill building.The Golden Milling Company Granada in door” affair, possibly survives today as the Golden Mill on Ford and Water Streets in Golden. southeastern because the other Colorado Republican candidates, one of he had sought and apologized were other federal installations whom was State Auditor Charles for not being aware of the age established during this time. Armstrong, couldn’t stand up to statutes.19 He held his last His predecessor Ralph Carr’s Vivian and his father’s political political office in 1941, serving opposition to the building of influence. Thus they were on the Washington staff of the relocation camp ruined his eliminated from the running.17 Congressman William Hill at the political career.22 Approximately This process of elimination turned age of seventy-seven.20 Civil 800 detainees were released from a fourth bid for the lieutenant Service Chairman Daniel Sullivan Amache by 1944. The camp was governorship into his first race for and Governor Vivian remained at closed in 1945. governor. odds throughout the 1940s. The Governor Vivian Collection It wasn’t long after taking office Governor Vivian’s role guiding at the Golden Pioneer Museum in January 1943 that controversy Colorado through the tumultuous contains a draft of Vivian’s 1944 marred Vivian’s first term. Fellow war years began under Ralph State of the State address which Republican, State Auditor Bradley, Carr’s administration. Vivian was spelled out the need for the state nominated John F. Vivian for an active Lieutenant Governor and to attract independent industry to appointment but one of the is credited with advising Carr on take up operations at Rocky commissioners, Daniel Sullivan, important matters outside his Mountain Arsenal at the war’s apparently hadn’t been consulted regular duties overseeing the State conclusion. The Governor satisfactorily and contested the Senate. He gained experience for considered this a necessary appointment.18 Eventually it was his role as governor while serving transformation for a continuing determined that, at age seventy- as acting governor during Carr’s job market for local people and -18- Photo courtesy of Western History Department of the Denver Public Library John C. Vivian was Lieutenant Governor and Governor during the war years. He is shown at the far right promoting war bonds. income for the state. By the war’s Germany, businesses were closed passed in 1947 enabled the end and in decades that followed, as Denverites anticipated a VE Colorado Health Department to several chemical manufacturing Day celebration. Instead, Governor establish public health facilities firms, including Shell Oil, took Vivian requested churches remain necessary to curb the state’s up the challenge. open and taverns closed. He higher than average death rates To his credit, Governor Vivian encouraged the public to due in part to a lack of proper was called the “spend nothing” remember the men who had sanitation. In 1959 the State governor because he saved the fallen for their country, and to placed a bronze statue of Sabin in state an estimated eleven to be mindful the war wasn’t over the National Hall of Statuary in thirteen million dollars by WWII’s in the Pacific.23 Washington, D.C. Dr. Sabin is the end. His detractors claimed he Governor Vivian’s greatest only Coloradan distinguished with wouldn’t have spent any money contribution to Colorado was his such an honor.24 even if he could have. He appointment of Dr. Florence After his tenure as governor, declined an inauguration Sabin to the Sub-Committee on John C. Vivian was asked to run celebration, lived in his own Health of the Post War Planning for a third term. He declined the home, and drove a higher mileage Commission responsible for nomination professing his belief state car to the Capitol, all implementing adequate health care that no man should serve more measures to economize during for Coloradans. Her “Sabin than two terms. He ran for the the rationing and hard times of Health Bills” met resistance in the U.S. Senate in 1948 but was the war. With the defeat of Colorado Legislature, but when defeated in the primaries by Will

-19- F. Nicholson.25 His last career and records.27 The school maintains a file assignment was a non-salaried In 1954, the year his father containing newspaper clippings appointment as Chairman of the died, John C. Vivian sold Jefferson relating to both John F. and Uniform State Laws Commission. County Public School District John C. Vivian. The commission dates from 1892 property in Wheat Ridge for the The Vivians are buried at the with appointments being made by John F. Vivian Elementary Golden Cemetery. John C. Vivian individual states. During the early School.28 The school district’s is buried next to his beloved wife 1960s, the commission focused on history of John F. Vivian Maude and his father. Addie is the United Flags Codes.26 The remembers his political career buried several spaces away with her enactment of these codes across included appointments by six parents, John and Emily Higgins. the United States was the Addie’s sister, Sarah and John F. impetus for Old Glory to be Vivian’s half-sister, Carolyn had displayed year-round on public married into the Schoech family, buildings. and their markers rest between the The Colorado State Archive’s Higgins and Vivian monuments. biography of Governor John The Vivian monument bears the Charles Vivian credits him with Colorado State Seal and states a passion for Colorado history. John C. Vivian was the Governor In 1943, the State Legislature of Colorado from 1943-1947. Ken passed a specific Executive Gaunt and Steven Tolen’s 1994 enactment involving funding for book, “Walking Tour of Golden the Colorado Historical Society. Photo by Martha Martin Cemetery,” only gives credit Vivian guaranteed higher priority Vivian monument at the Golden Cemetery. to Governor Vivian to cite that funding for the preservation of he gave one of the longest Colorado history by placing the presidents to numerous official inauguration speeches in budget under the Executive posts in Colorado and that he was Colorado’s history. The lack-luster Department of State Government. the mayor of Golden from 1901- of this statement illustrates that As a result, the Colorado Histor- 1908. An enlarged black and white the “County of Vivian” era and ical Society started earnestly photograph of John F. Vivian is the Vivians’ reign have faded microfilming early documents displayed inside the front doorway. into history.

Acknowledgments 1George Orlowski, “Statehood Governors Collections July1, 2, 3, 4 1945 (Chicago: Governors’ I would like to thank the staff at the 1876-1963: Biography of John Charles Vivian,” Conference, 1945). 14 Orlowski Colorado State Archives Online, 16 Apr. 2001 15 Golden and Arvada public libraries, 2 “Hon. John F. Vivian, Long Time G.O.P. Leader, Donna and Daniel Howes, personal and Duncan McCollum and his staff at the telephone interviews 1998, Feb. and Apr. 2001. Passes Away,” Colorado Transcript 16 Jefferson County Archives, the staff at 16 Aug. 1954: 1,5 Robert Alan Goldberg, Hooded Empire: The 3 “Hon. John F. Vivian,” The Denver Independent Ku Klux Klan in Colorado (Chicago: University the Golden Pioneer Museum and John 13 Jan. 1912: Front Page. of Illinois Press, 1981) 136-141, 214n66. F. Vivian elementary school for 4 17 Orlowski Political King-Maker Dies,” Rocky Mountain 18 providing me access to their collections News 15 Aug 1954: 17. “State Merit Board Chairman To Fight Job of 5 Harold Lutz, Telephone Interview, 29 Mar. 2001. Vivian’s Dad,” Rocky Mountain News 21 Sept. and assistance with my research. Thank 6 1943:8 “Hon. John F. Vivian,” The Denver Independent 19 you to Dan and Donna Howes for 13 Jan. 1912: Front Page. “Elder Vivian Quiets Capitol Storm By 7 Declining State Job,” Denver Post 21 Sept 1943. instilling a passion in me to learn more History of Colorado: Biographical, Vol.IV 20 (Denver: Linderman Co., Inc., 1927) 556-7 “John F. Vivian, Political King-Maker Dies,” about Governor Vivian. Harold Lutz and 8 Rocky Mountain News, 15 Aug 1954. Donna and Daniel Howes, personal and 21 Ed Ramstetter shared valuable telephone interviews 1998, Feb. and Apr. 2001. Lee Casey, “Born a Republican: The Life Story remembrances with me through 9 Cathleen Norman, Golden Old & New: A of John C. Vivian, “Colorado State Archives Online, 16 Apr 2001 Walking Tour Guide (Golden: City of Golden, 22 telephone and personal interviews. Most 1996) p.42. “Statehood Governors Collections 1876-1963: importantly, thank you to my stepfather, 10 Robert W. Fenwick, “Ex-Gov. Vivian Dies at 76,” Ralph L. Carr Biography,” Colorado State Archives Online, 16 Apr 2001 Alan McLean, for his unbiased editorial Denver Post 1 Feb. 1964: 1 23 11 Robert W. Fenwick, “Politician and Poet,” Rocky “Denverites rejoiced privately: Downtown was comments while I was writing the essay. set celebration,” The Denver Post, 8 May 1985, Mountain News 22 Sept. 1963:23 th He has been my greatest critic and 12 Orlowski special ed. V.E. Day-A 40 Anniversary 13 Souvenir Section:2VE. endured many hours listening to every Governors of the American States and Territories 24 1945: Biographical Sketches and Portraits. Fay Abbott, Famous Coloradans: 124 People new discovery I’d uncover about the life Prepared for the 37th Annual Meeting, The Who Have Gained Nationwide Fame (Paonia: and political career of Governor Vivian. Governors’ Conference Mackinac Island, MI, Mountaintop Books, 1990)5.

-20- 25 Robert Strapp, “They Called Me Governor: “Ex Governor Vivian Credited: Downtown Denver “John F. Vivian, Political King-Maker Dies.” John Vivian Has Had Fling at Politics,” Rocky Flies Old Glory Year Around.” The Denver Rocky Mountain News. 15 Aug. 1954: p. 17. Mountain News, n.d. Post. 14 June1963: p. 3. Lutz, Harold. Telephone Interview. 29 Mar. 2001. 26 “Ex Governor Vivian Credited: Downtown Fay, Abbott. Famous Coloradans: 124 People Who More Than Gold: A History of Arvada, Colorado, Denver Flies Old Glory Year Around,” The Have Gained Nationwide Fame. Paonia: During the Period 1870-1904. Researched and Denver Post, 14 June 1963:3 Mountaintop Books, 1990. p. 5. Written by the Publication Committee of the 27 The Colorado Magazine: Annual Report of the Fenwick, Robert W. “Ex-Gov. Vivian Dies at 76.” Arvada Historical Society. Arvada: Arvada President,” ed. Leroy Hafen (Denver: The State Denver Post. 11 Feb. 1964: p. 1. Historical Society, 1976. p. 44. Historical Society, Jan. 1944) 1-2. Fenwick, Robert W. “Politician and Poet.” Rocky Norman, Cathleen. Golden Old & New: A Walking 28 John F. Vivian Elementary School, Jeffco Mountain News. 22 Sept. 1963: p. 23. Tour Guide. Golden: City of Golden, 1996. p. Public Schools, Communication Services: Gaunt, Ken and Steven Tolen. Walking Tour of 42. School Profile, Apr 2001. Golden Cemetery. Golden: Ken Gaunt and Orlowski, George. “Statehood Governors Steven Tolen, 1994. Collections 1876-1963: John Charles Vivian BIBLIOGRAPHY: Goldberg, Robert Alan. Hooded Empire: The Ku Biography.” Colorado State Archives Online. Arvada, Just Between You and Me: A History of Klux Klan in Colorado. Chicago: University 16 Apr. 2001. Arvada, Colorado, During the Period 1904-1941. of Illinois Press, 1981. p.136, 137, 138, 139, 140, Ramstetter, Ed. Personal interview Apr. 2001. Boulder: Johnson Pub. Co., for the Arvada 141, 214n66. “Rocky Mountain Arsenal History.” Rocky Historical Society, 1985. p. 5, 29, 79-80, 97, 99. “Golden’s Governor Vivian To Be Buried Here.” Mountain Arsenal Online Homepage. Casey, Lee. “Born a Republican: The Life Story of Colorado Transcript. Vol. 98, No. 19. www.pmrma.army.mil. John C. Vivian.” Rocky Mountain News. Oct. 13 Feb. 1964: p. 1. Stapp, Robert. “They Called Me Governor: John 1942. Governors of the American States and Territories Vivian Has Had Last Fling at Politics.” Rocky Colorado and Its People: A Narrative and Topical 1945: Biographical Sketches and Portraits. Mountain News. n.d. History of the Centennial State. Vol. 3. New Prepared for the 37th Annual Meeting, The “State Merit Board Chairman To Fight Job of York: Lewis Historical Publishing Co., Inc., Governors’ Conference Mackinac Island, MI, Vivian’s Dad.” Rocky Mountain News. 21 Sept. 1948. p. 272-3. July 1, 2, 3, 4 1945. Chicago: Governors’ 1943: p. 8. “The Colorado Magazine: Annual Report of the Conference, 1945. “Statehood Governors Collections 1876-1963: Ralph President.” Vol. XXI, No. 1. Ed. Leroy R. “The Governor Vivian Collection.” L. Carr Biography.” Colorado State Archives Hafen. Denver: The State Historical Society, Golden Pioneer Museum. Online. 16 Apr. 2001. Jan. 1944. p. 1-2. The Historical Encyclopedia of Colorado. Ed. Vivian, John C. “ What A Flag Pole is For.” The “Denverites rejoiced privately: Downtown was set Thomas S. Chamblin. Denver: Colorado Chicago Tribune. for celebration.” Denver Post. 8 May 1985, Historical Association, 1960. p. 405. 8 May 1962: p. 14. special ed. V.E. Day-A 40th Anniversary History of Colorado: Biographical. Vol. IV. Denver: “Vivian to Keep Dry Head Job.” Rocky Mountain Souvenir Section: 2VE. Linderman Co., Inc., 1927. p. 556-7. News. 03 May 1931. Denver Public Library. Western History/Genealogy “Hon. John F. Vivian.” The Denver Independent 13 Who’s Who In America: A Biographical Dictionary Department. Western History Photos. Call Jan. 1912: Front Page. of Notable Living Men and Women of the Number: X-9842: The remodeled Buckman mill Howes, Donna and Daniel. Personal and telephone United States. Vol. 14, 1926-1927. Ed. Albert at Ford St. and Clear Creek, Golden Colo. interviews 1998, Feb. 2001, Apr. 2001. Nelson Marquis. Chicago: The A.N. Marquis around the turn of the century, John F. Vivian John F. Vivian Elementary School. Jeffco Public Company, 1926. p. 1944. was manager. Photographer: J.C. Vivian. Call Schools. Communication Services: School Who Was Who In America: A Component Volume Number: X-27886: St. Car #833 (1942). Profile. Apr. 2001. of Who’s Who In American History. Vol. 3, Copyright: Denver Public Library, Colorado “John F. Vivian Long Time G.O.P. Leader, 1951-60. Chicago: The A.N. Marquis Historical Society, and Denver Art Museum, Company, 1966. p. 879. Passes Away.” Colorado Transcript. 1995-2001. Who Was Who In America: With World Notables. 19 Aug. 1954: p. 1, 5. “Elder Vivian Quiets Capitol Storm By Declining Vol. IV, 1961-1968. Chicago: Marquis-Who’s State Job.” Denver Post. 21 Sept. 1943. Who, Inc., 1968. p. 971.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR: time a ghost town above Harry Martin and his untimely death at MARTHA N. MARTIN Keystone ski resort without the Indianapolis Motor Speedway in I was born in Colorado radio or television reception. 1913.The Golden Transcript has published and outside of short for- I was fascinated by the sto- several of my short histories, profiling ays abroad, including Viet- ries of my family’s Indiana homes featured on the Golden Christ- nam in 1968 and Iran in history dating back to the mas Historic Home’s Tour. 1977, I have lived in the Civil War as well as Col- For the past several years I have state my entire life, pri- orado history. I remember been an active volunteer within my marily as a resident of Jef- searching for the Reynolds community, the call for this coming after ferson County. I attended gangs’ loot near Webster joining the Golden based Mount Look- elementary and junior Pass. Later, as an adult, I out Chapter of the National Society of high school in Arvada. In researched family stories and the Daughters of the American Revolu- 1988 I graduated Magna genealogy.This love of tion in 1996. From 1998 to 2000 I Cum Laude from Metropolitan State research followed its logical course, and I served as a volunteer co-chairman for College with a BA in elementary found myself writing several short histori- the Golden Christmas Historic Home’s education. Presently, I am employed cal pieces for publication in both newspa- Tour, an annual fund raising event for the by Jefferson County Public Library pers and historical journals. past twenty-one years benefitting the system as the Delivery/Support In the spring 2000 biennial publication, Golden Pioneer Museum and Golden Services Coordinator. Fulton County Images, the Fulton County Landmarks Association.This past July My father and uncle sparked my Historical Society published my first article marked the end of my third season as a interest in history while spending sum- in Indiana.The article was a tribute to the Jefferson County Open Space Natural mer vacations in Montezuma, at that motor racing career of my great-uncle Resources program volunteer.

-21- Illustration from the Western History Department of the Denver Public Library According to Carolyn Bancroft in her book,“Six Racy Madams of Colorado,” (Johnson Books) this illustration could have been drawn at Jennie Rogers’ establishment where a good time was sure. Because of the pressure from Denver County, Jennie Rogers purchased half a block of lots in the Sloan’s Lake area. WILD, WILD EDGEWATER

By Celora Cory Jones there, such as “Soapy Smith,” who dollars, depending on the Adult Honorable Mention performed his con games on naive woman’s age and attractiveness. JCHC 2001 Writers’ Contest patrons of the saloons, and much Usually a charge of one dollar Many of the younger and newer drinking, carousing and wide was added for beer and a tip. The residents of the Denver Metro open gambling could be found. ladies preferred a street location area may not know about the Television westerns might aptly where they could lean out the raucous past of the little town of describe the town during this window and display their charms. Edgewater during the turn of the wild period. Some girls lived in another house last century. This article will help Two types of prostitution close by and used the crib only to envision those times. operated in Edgewater: cribs and for business purposes. Numerous prostitutes, or parlor houses. A crib was a single The rent for a crib was $15-25 “soiled doves” resided in the area operation run by a prostitute, who per week. In the white sections of now known as Edgewater. Girlie had a small bedroom with a door town, cribs were known as “dollar cribs were lined up along Emerald and one window facing the street houses” and in colored sections Street, now 25th Avenue. A two- and maybe a kitchen/livingroom they were referred to as “two-bit story house of “ill repute” stood in the rear and a privy in the houses.” Looking at the alignment on 25th Avenue and Sheridan back. The charge for a visit to a of the buildings on 25th Avenue, Street. Seedy elements were drawn crib was from 25 cents to two one can easily visualize these

-22- operations in this particular Because large amounts of already set up business in area. money flowed in and out of the Edgewater. Jennie Rogers Manhattan Beach was parlor houses, wall safes were purchased half a block of lots in drawing thousands of people installed in most of them. They the Sloan’s Lake area. to the area daily. The needed to be easily accessible for Ownership of any Edgewater tramway cooperated by payoffs to the authorities. building by a famous madam running three routes of One of the most notorious could not be ascertained, but old- streetcars to the park. The madams of the time was Mattie timers tell that Mattie and her Edgewater area was just Silks who came to Georgetown in girls frequented the area. We can outside the reach of the 1859 from Kansas. She later only speculate about their Denver constables, which bought the building at 1916-1922 purpose. A house in the 2500 made it very attractive for Market Street in Denver. In 1910, block on Benton Street was these dens of iniquity, plus she purchased the famous “House rumored to have been a parlor Edgewater did not have law of Mirrors” next door from the house catering to affluent Denver enforcement then. estate of Jennie Rogers, another residents and politicians. Parlor houses were famous madam. Both buildings Many drunks, bums and riffraff operated for entertainment remain today and are now thriving crowded the area of 25th and with the outward appearance restaurants in Lower Downtown of Sheridan, and it was not safe to be of decorum and dignity. Denver. It was estimated that there or cross the street. Drinking, One of these houses was Mattie earned between 1-2 million carousing and fighting in six said to have been on the dollars during her career, but only saloons in the 2400 block of southwest corner of 25th a small estate was evident when Sheridan was very often out of Avenue and Sheridan Street. she died at the age of 83 years. control. Since there were no A parlor house would Mattie is said to have had a pistol authorities to control what was have one or more drawing duel with a competitor in 1877 happening in this area, it became rooms, a piano for music and over the affection of a gambler the WILD, WILD EDGEWATER. dancing, and very often a bouncer. who later became her husband. Its clientele was somewhat higher The newspaper called the incident REFERENCES: than that of a crib. The girls were “a disgraceful occurrence of the Allison, Judith. Edgewater Four Score, 1981 Bancroft, Caroline, Six Racy Madams of expected to be well read and well fast element.” Another time, two Colorado. Boulder, Colorado: Johnson trained in the social graces. They madams loaded their carriages Publishing Co., 6th ed. 1979 dressed in the latest fashion and with their “bevy of doves” and Parkhill, Forbes, The Wildest of the West. New York: Henry Holt and Company, their manners were beyond racing down a main street caused 1951 reproach. Their gaiety and quite a commotion. Once the witticism was well known and as parlor house resident drove her appealing to their clientele as were horse and buggy into the lobby of ABOUT THE AUTHOR their attributes. The charge for a the Eagle Hotel to meet a client. Celora Cory Jones came to visit in a parlor house ran from 15 And then there is the story of the Edgewater, Colorado with her to 25 dollars. three prostitutes who danced nude family in 1946, when they moved The parlor houses were run by on the sidewalk at 19th and to Colorado from Indiana for her father’s health. Celora graduated “madams,” usually very astute, Larimer Streets. Needless to say, from Edgewater High School in shrewd business women. To the frivolous behavior of the 1951 and attended Red Rocks protect the identity of their “ladies of the night” was becoming College. She is the mother of customers with complete secrecy an embarrassment to the upright three daughters and grandmother was very important. Madams citizens and church people, and of seven children. needed tactfulness and the ability the authorities were forced to clear Celora presently resides in Golden with her husband. She retired from to handle unruly guests, and the the young city of this element. GMAC and Prudential Ins. and is maturity to deal with their girls. Because of the pressure on the now working on the history of Many of the girls were moody, ladies by Denver County, many of Edgewater for the Centennial. depressed or even suicidal. them joined their sisters who had

-23- Amazing Jefferson County Historic Sites

by Melissa Morningstar First Place Youth Winner JCHC 2001 Writers’ Contest

While the state of Colorado holds many fascinating historic sites, some of the must-see places are in Jefferson County. There are special mountains, famous schools and archaeological sites. A visitor can find an amusement park, a miniature replica of a town and many excellent museums. It would be a shame if any Colorado visitor missed even one of Jefferson County’s numerous historic sites. Visitors will especially enjoy the museums, historic buildings and geologic setting of Golden and the Colorado School of Mines. Other unusual sites worth visiting in this amazing county are the Colorado Railroad Museum, Dinosaur Ridge and Red Rocks Park, Lakeside Amusement Park, Buffalo Bill’s Museum and Grave, Hiwan Homestead and Tiny Town.

Photo by Don Ebner -24- Tower at Lakeside Amusement Park Golden is in a valley surrounded some time at the Astor House by North and South Table Moun- Museum, Golden Pioneer Museum, tains, Lookout Mountain and Foothills Art Center, American Mount Zion. Clear Creek runs Mountaineering Center and Clear through Golden and the Table Creek History Park. A two block Mountains which were created square neighborhood includes 28 by ancient volcanic eruptions and homes listed in the National millions of years of erosion. Historic District. Details and web When driving down Washing- addresses for these sites are ton Avenue, one passes under a available at the Golden Visitors Welcome Arch holding a steel sign Center at 10th and Washington and that says, “Howdy Folks! Welcome at: www.goldencochamber.org to Golden, where the West lives” The prestigious Colorado School in white lettering on fake wood. of Mines is in Golden. The plan The arch was the idea of Lu for the school began in 1866. The Holland in December 1948. The cornerstone of the first brick lighting ceremony was on March building states it was completed 24, 1949 when 6,000 people in September 1868. The Colorado showed up for a parade and Territorial Legislature adopted the ceremony. Some were against the school in 1870. When Colorado Unique mailbox at Tiny Town, sign, but a survey in 1979 found became a state in 1876, the a miniature village in Turkey Creek Canyon in Western Jefferson that most people wanted the sign school was the state’s first higher County, just off Highway 285. saved, so it was restored. After education institution. Rose Kalasz, age 10, wrote the www.mines.edu Jefferson County holds another nomination, the Golden Welcome While on the CSM campus, visi- unusual sight associated with the Arch was added to the State tors can see extraordinary minerals, Colorado School of Mines. The Register of Historic Properties on fossils and gems on display at the giant “M” on the east side of June 14, 2000. Geology Museum. Visitors are also Mount Zion was designed by Camp George West was the base welcome to tour the National Joe O’Byrne in 1905. Students for the Colorado National Guard Earthquake Information Center of the class of 1910 hiked up the for many years along Old Golden on the CSM campus. mountain and staked out the Road. Visitors will enjoy spending http://neic.usgs.gov M-blem on May 16, 1908. Since there were no roads, the materials Pahaska Tepee at Buffalo Bill’s Grave on top of Lookout Mountain. for construction were transported Photos courtesy of Hiwan Homestead Museum by burros. The “M” is 104 feet by 107 feet in size and was first lighted with 350 bulbs borrowed from Colorado Central Power Company in 1931. The students also borrowed a generator, poles and wiring from the Physics Department to light the M-blem for Homecoming weekend. In 1932, the letter was provided with permanent lighting. At that time, it was the largest electrically lighted letter in the world. A timer was added in 1948 to automate

-25- the lighting at night. dance pavilion and Japanese Tea Tourists and locals like to hike a The Colorado Railroad Muse- Garden. A miniature railroad cir- trail along the ridge of the hog- um, east of Golden at 17155 West cles about a mile around the lake. back or view prehistoric fossils 44th Avenue, has international The park covers about 160 acres, from the road. Many Jefferson recognition as one of the best in including 93 acres of grounds and County students visit the site as the world. After WWII, many of the 37 acres of Lake Rhoda. It part of their study of dinosaurs. the railroad tracks in Colorado offers an exceptional way to spend West and above Golden is were pulled up. Volunteers saved a day in Jefferson County. Lookout Mountain, where one can many trains that were no longer www.lakesideamusementpark.com see the Front Range to the east used. They preserved and breathtaking railroad equipment in views of the Con- the Alamosa yards in tinental Divide to southern Colorado the west. Native until they moved it to Americans and the present site in early explorers 1959. The Rocky and trappers all Mountain Railroad enjoyed the view Foundation was from Lookout formed in 1964. Mountain. More than 70 his- A resort was toric locomotives and planned for 2,380 cars are displayed on acres of Lookout 15 acres. The Mountain in The Hiwan Homestead in Evergreen was built in the late Museum has 14 1880’s. It is a log mansion of 17 rooms and was listed 1890. A reservoir engines that rest on in the National Register of Historic Places in 1974. was built near the the first tracks to east summit in Central City. Steam engines are Jefferson County is also home 1895. Since 1914, people could operated around the yard. Seven- to one of Colorado’s most signifi- visit the mountain by driving up teen passenger coaches and 37 cant geological sites. The Dakota the Lariat Trail or on a railroad freight cars are also parked out- Hogback, named for its distin- funicular that took them up. side the museum. A replica of a guishing shape as seen from afar, William “Buffalo Bill” Cody was historic train depot includes a is on the upslope of Alameda buried close to the lower east sum- ticket window, exhibits and a Parkway, east of Red Rocks Den- mit at 7200 feet altitude in 1917. A book and photo shop. Items from ver Mountain Park. The Red concrete slab covers the body of trains are on display and visitors Rocks Amphitheater is world- the star of the “Wild West Show.” can read about them from signs. famous. www.redrocksonline.com The grave site is listed on the www.crrm.org On the east slope of the hog- National Register of Historic Lakeside Amusement Park, west back in the sandstone of the Places within Lookout Mountain of Sheridan Boulevard and south Dakota group of the Cretaceous, Park, a Denver Mountain Park. of I-70, is one of Jefferson Coun- fossilized leaves, marine fish scales, The Buffalo Bill Museum offers ty’s oldest places of entertain- dinosaur tracks and ripple marks excellent exhibits of photos, film ment. The park cost $500,000 to are visible. On the west slope, and objects from the Old West. It build and opened on Decoration dinosaur bones are preserved with- is easy to see why Lookout Moun- Day in 1908. It became known as in the Morrison formation. The tain is the top tourist attraction in “White City” because of its many sites are protected by the Friends Jefferson County. white buildings. of Dinosaur Ridge who offer www.buffalobill.org The park has a roller coaster educational displays and tours The Hiwan Homestead in and other amusement rides, a from the visitor center. Evergreen was built by John boathouse, roller skating rink, www.dinoridge.org Spence, Mrs. Williams’ carpenter

-26- beginning in the late 1880s. It repainted each year. curtains in the windows. is a log mansion of 17 rooms, Tiny Town has its own train Mr. Turner built many of the including leisure rooms, dining built to scale. The railroad track structures to resemble those he rooms, bedrooms, a kitchen, runs about a mile over bridges, knew so many prominent business simulated school room, rack room through tunnels and around the places are recognized. Tiny Town and a chapel. The Homestead also town. The train, No. 1700, pulls is a favorite place for children has outbuildings for extended five passenger cars for visitors, two and adults to visit. family and servants. freight cars and a caboose with a These historic sites can add a The Buchanan family lot to the experience for purchased the property in visitors to Jefferson County. 1938, and named it Hiwan. The mountains provide It was listed in the National entertainment for nature- Register of Historic Places in lovers or anyone who enjoys 1974, and Jefferson County beautiful surroundings. The Open Space acquired it to School of Mines interests become a museum in 1975. scholars. The Old West Among the many visitors remains in Golden and at year round, Jefferson County Buffalo Bill’s Grave and students enjoy a field trip Museum. to cook, card wool, inspect The Dakota Hogback old household items and offers archeological appeal. experience an old school Tiny Town captures the lesson. hearts of children, convincing For those who wish to them to return to Jefferson embrace their “inner child” County. Lakeside Amusement in Jefferson County, there is Park offers a fun day of a wonderful place called Tiny vacationing or just a break Town. This miniature city is from the daily routine of built on the bank of South locals. Many museums offer Turkey Creek, six miles Photo courtesy of Dinosaur Ridge Museum a variety of education and southwest of Morrison. The Dinosaur Ridge in Jefferson County is one of entertainment. Clearly, little structures are laid out the world’s most famous dinosaur fossil sites. Jefferson County is a Tracks are visible from dinosaurs who lived along small streets lined with over 100 million years ago. historically rich part of the shade trees. There are stores, Centennial State of Colorado. a radio station, church, farm, and miniature coal-burning steam (Edited by Carole Lomond) a dance pavilion all built to scale. engine. The eight by three feet It has been rebuilt twice to survive engine can pull fire and flood over the past 80 its eight cars at ABOUT THE AUTHOR years and continues to entertain a maximum Melissa Morningstar was born on June 25, 1986. people of all ages. speed of 30 She has been a Jefferson County resident for her In 1915, this wonderful project miles per hour. entire life. She shares a home was thought of by Mr. George The three in Indian Hills with two dogs, Turner who began to build it in foot high two cats, two sisters, and two 1920. The first buildings were buildings are parents. Melissa is currently a made in Denver and transported made of wood sophomore at Lakewood by truck to the site. New to look like High School, where she has a buildings were gradually added normal size 4.0 grade point average. She and the old ones are kept in buildings right enjoys dancing and spending time with her friends. shape. The whole town is down to little

-27- Saint Francis Xavier Cabrini By Jillian Mestdagh the Missionary Sisters 2nd Place Youth Winner of the Sacred Heart. JCHC 2001 Writers’ Contest Immigrants to America then were When one examines the poor and came looking history of Jefferson for even the heaviest County, Colorado, one and most menial labor. comes to know an Generally, immigrants extraordinary woman were regarded as cheap and her wonderful tools that were contributions to the unimportant if lost, county: Saint Frances which many were. In Xavier Cabrini. Mother Colorado many Cabrini had a immigrants worked in significant impact on the mines or in the lives of Italian and railroad construction, other immigrants and very risky work. Many their children living in were killed and left Colorado during the hundreds of children late 19th and early 20th orphaned. These centuries. She was an children lived a very admirable, strong-willed hard life full of shame, woman who devoted prejudice and many her life to the happiness unkind stereotypes. and well-being of That their parents others. came from another Maria Francesca country added to the Cabrini was born disgrace and July 15, 1850 in Sant’ humiliation. Angelo, a small town Mother Cabrini on the plains of accepted the invitation Lombardy in Northern Mother Cabrini in a painting by Ilia Rubini. Mother Cabrini offered of Archbishop Michael Italy. She was the tenth much needed help to thousands of Italian and other immigrants Corrigan of New York child of eleven born to during the late 19th and early 20th century. to work in his Agostino and Stella archdiocese. On March Cabrini. Commonly known by her local school. Soon after, her 31, 1889, she and her sisters arrived parents as Cecchina, Cabrini, while Ordinary directed her to become in New York Harbor. Throughout a delicate and shy child, was the Superior of a small orphanage. the following years, Mother intelligent and hardworking with Six years later, the orphanage was Cabrini and the Missionary Sisters an iron will. Like her mother, she closed and her Ordinary told her, of the Sacred Heart built many was very dedicated and devout to “You want to be a missionary. I churches, orphanages, schools, the Lord and prayer. know no institute of missionary hospitals, and missions all over the Cabrini was educated by the sisters, so found one yourself.” United States. Mother Cabrini was Daughters of the Sacred Heart and With this, Sister Cabrini with a savior to many immigrants who, assumed a career in teaching at a about six dedicated girls founded because of their work in the mines

-28- had slowly turned abandoned and away from orphaned youths with Catholicism. She was joy and happiness they a symbol of hope for might not have had them by providing otherwise, many them with something problems arose. The familiar and kind. most severe drawback For this reason, was the lack of water. Mother Cabrini and So Mother Cabrini her sisters were instructed the sisters invited by Bishop to dig in a rock-strewn Matz of Denver to gulch, where they visit and aid in the excavated a spring, growing needs of which has been Italian immigrants, flowing ever since. their families and The Sacred Heart inner city children of leading to the camp was named Sisters built two barns, all other backgrounds. In 1905, “Cabrini Boulevard” out of respect an icehouse, and living quarters all and together with her sisters, and gratitude. Mother Cabrini is out of stone. When all was Mother Cabrini founded the said to have chosen the spot finished, there were 14 rooms in Mount Carmel School and Queen because she “loved the locality the three-story main house. Today, of Heaven Orphanage in Denver at very much and the pure air does the building is still used Federal Boulevard and West 48th her good.” The stone house was for conferences and retreats. Avenue. In 1909, she bought land completed after Mother Cabrini’s In 1929, a grotto was built at on Lookout Mountain to build a death in 1917. the spring to commemorate the summer camp for the girls of the Although the summer house work and dedication of Mother orphanage in 1912. The street would later provide countless Cabrini and her sisters to the

Above: The first pilgrimage to the shrine Below: Orphaned children in of St. Francis Xavier Cabrini, July 6, 1946 procession at the 1957 pilgrimage. Photos from Cabrinian Colorado Missions

-29- orphanage. In 1946, Mother THE TOWER FARM O Cabrini was canonized and became the first American Saint. Mother Cabrini offered much by Eric Hislop Lookout Mountain and Genesee help to thousands of Italian Honorable Mention residential areas increased as well. JCHC Youth Writers’ Contest and other immigrants in need The towers had no real safety during the late 19th and early Back in 1952, the first seed of the standards for exposure to radiation 20th centuries. Saint Francis Lookout Mountain Tower Farm from radio frequency power until Xavier Cabrini was an was planted. The first high- 1982 when the American National extraordinary woman and was powered broadcasting towers were Standards Institute (ANSI) and recently bestowed the well- put up on Lookout Mountain on the Institute of Electrical and deserved honor of the “Italian the lower east summit because it Electronic Engineers (IEEE) Immigrant of the Century” for had the best road access in the established a radiation limit (based her work as a missionary. She foothills. These towers were only on heat, not biological died on December 22, 1917 constructed in residential zoned effects). The arbitrary limit was of chronic endocarditis. And lots (filed by 1924) without placed at a thousand micro watts although she may have died consent of residential neighbors. per centimeter squared (1000 almost a century ago, her legacy When the station KFEL (now uW/cm2). In 1992, the limit was and accomplishments will KWGN) first bought land on revised to 200 uW/cm2. forever live on. Lookout Mountain east of the The residents of Lookout 1917 historical site of Buffalo Bill’s Mountain were previously reluctant Grave, there were already 350 to protest the towers because they residences on Lookout Mountain. were afraid that by bringing Lookout Mountain was used negative attention to the area, they ABOUT THE AUTHOR: long before the first white settlers would cause their property values JILLIAN MESDAUGH came to Colorado. The Ute and to drop. But in 1982, they I was born on October 3, 1985, Arapahoe were the first to enjoy protested adding a tower for and have lived in Westminster, Colorado my entire life. I am the wonderful view. When white television Channel 31. While first currently a settlers arrived, an adventurous denying the application to re-zone sophomore in group of pioneers built Rockland for the new tower, the Board of the International School in 1873 and Rockland County Commissioners approved Baccalaureate Church in 1880. The first a second application after the program at developer arrived in January 1890 broadcasters agreed to lease Lakewood High to plan a resort of 2,380 acres antenna space on the tower to School, where I called “The City on the Hill.” Jefferson County for $1.00 per hold a 3.99 Mount Vernon Country Club year for the next 99 years. average. I live was established at higher altitudes From 1982 through 1998, more in Westminster of Lookout Mountain in 1922. towers and more antennas and with my parents, my younger sister and brother The Tower Farm continued to microwaves were added to Lookout and my two cats, Oreo and Kiya. grow after all Jefferson County Mountain with little opposition I enjoy reading , watching TV and plats were zoned “residential” in because residents were not hanging out with my friends 1956. Not just the number of informed of the increase. Then whenever I am not in school, towers grew, but also the number Lake Cedar Group (LCG), a cartel studying or at work.After I of broadcasting devices. The of television channels 4, 6, 7, 9, graduate from high school, I plan towers were loaded with many and 20, proposed to rezone on attending college, but still am smaller transmitters and receivers residential- and agricultural-zoned not sure of which career or field of varying powers and frequencies. land for a new supertower. It of study I will go into. At the same time the growth of would dwarf all but the 830 feet

-30- M OF LOOKOUT MOUNTAIN

area on January consortium of homeowner 13, 1999. associations representing a On February population of 9,000, filed a 17, 1999, the lawsuit against FOX and Jefferson Colorado Health County for allowing the Department additional antenna. FOX-31 released data turned on the first digital that showed a television broadcast antenna in statistically November 1999. The Colorado significant District Court and the Court number of brain of Appeals upheld Jefferson cancers in men County’s permit for FOX-31. living within two Genesee, Lookout Mountain miles of the and Mount Vernon residents put Lookout forth another effort to stop the Mountain LCG super tower. After four long towers. The and tedious hearings, the Board towers are of County Commissioners voted owned and to deny on July 13, 1999. The operated by the result was another suit against media, which Jefferson County, this time discredited the from LCG. results and There are at least 31 towers latched onto the of varying sizes on Lookout phrase “no Mountain holding more than one connection to thousand transmission devices. In the towers,” places radiation is above county neglecting to and federal limits. mention that the The historical beauty of “study” was only Lookout Mountain continues to Eric Hislop, shown with some of the Lookout Mountain for counting the be threatened, in spite of safe, Towers, is a resident of the neighborhood and a sophomore number of alternative tower sites available for in the International Baccalaureate Program at Lakewood High School. cancers, not why. the broadcasters. Finally, 50 years After the after the first tower was erected, high Channel 4 tower. LCG also Health Department findings were the citizens are trying to stop the proposed a 26,000 square foot released, Jefferson County gave growth of the Lookout Mountain building next to the tower. permission for FOX-31 to add a Tower Farm. Genesee, Lookout Mountain and digital TV transmitter to its tower (Edited by Carole Lomond) Mount Vernon residents decided despite the fact that radiation in BIBLIOGRAPHY: to fight the increase that would the area exceeded FCC and An Alternative Analysis of DTV Tower Sites double existing radiation. After county radiation limits. The Board to Serve the Denver Area, by Ron Larson, PhD; Alfred Hislop; and James A. Martin. three long hearings and much of Adjustment upheld permission City and Mountain Views, Pg.15, toil, the Planning Commission despite resident opposition. In Feb.-Mar. 1999 City and Mountain Views, Pg. 24, voted that the super tower was May 1999 Canyon Area Residents Aug.-Sep. 1999 “compatible” with the residential for the Environment (CARE), a Tower Fight Calendar by Deb Carney, Attorney http://www.C-A-R-E.org.

-31- A POSTCARD ADVENTURE A Day in the Mountains

Along the Lariat Loop Gateway to Lookout Mountain Park, Colo. After passing over the eight By Sally L. White, car, complete with mile concrete road between Denver and the Morrison Museums, chauffeur! His uncle was little town of Golden, one comes upon two huge for Lariat Loop Heritage Alliance stone pylons built of rough hewn gray granite. persuaded to ride along, and This imposing gateway is the entrance to Look- On a chilly spring day in about took a spot in the back seat. out Mountain Park, and marks the foot of the famous Lariat Trail.This gateway, and a similar 1920, Susan and Marjorie dressed About mid-morning, the one at the Bear Creek entrance to the Denver for an outing with several seven friends climbed into Mountain Parks were presented to the City of gentleman friends—a day’s the silver touring car. As Denver by Finlay L. MacFarland, one of Denver’s prominent automobile dealers and a member of adventure in Denver’s new they drove out of Denver, the Denver Mountain Park’s advisory Commis- mountain parks. Their trip had they first detoured to sion.] C.T.American Art card. a second purpose—William, an Inspiration Point near aspiring (or perhaps an Berkeley Lake to enjoy a distant started by the City of Denver and accomplished) photographer, prospect of the mountains, each finished by the State Highway planned to finance the outing by identified by a painted sign Department. At Wadsworth selling his pictures to Harry reading, for example, “Mount Boulevard, the group drove Tammen’s postcard company. He Morrison,” or “Mt. Evans.” through several blocks of enlisted his friends to help, and Though the view was already Lakewood's business district, then Frank commandeered his spectacular, wonders lay ahead, through the fields and small uncle’s Overland and they could not linger long settlements along west Colfax touring Piling back into their open car, Avenue. When they saw the State our travelers returned to Colfax Armory shortly after turning onto Avenue, which Golden Road, they knew Rock bisected Rest—the real beginning to their the growing adventure—was near. One mile city of later, the concrete road quickly Denver became a city street. and Soon the route made a left turn, extended zig-zagged from Ford Street to east and west Washington to 19th Street in well beyond Golden, then began to climb, its limits. leaving the houses behind. Passing Leaving Denver the pillars that marked the at Sheridan entrance to Lookout Mountain Inspiration Boulevard, they Park, the road became steeper, and Point is one of the first found themselves frequent turns slowed their attractions reached by the tourist on his way to on the new 8-mile progress. They stopped often to Denver’s beautiful Mountain Park system. concrete road take in the views, as William -32- Golden and Plains:The trip through Denver’s new Mountain Park system is unsur- passed by any similar trip in the world.The automobile road leading through this chain of parks is one of the best improved highways in the country photographed each new vista. so close to Denver. made it up Even on the lower slopes of Mt. Again and again the the mountain in recent Zion, the view back was friends stopped to years, especially as, thus far, they entrancing, showing the passage of admire magnificent views, were alone on the road. Why, in Clear Creek between the two Table and waited while William 1918 alone, more than 116,000 cars Mountains, with Golden spread laboriously set up his camera and followed the circle drive, a 65-mile out below. They imagined they tried to capture the sights on film. round trip from the State Capitol could see Inspiration Point, where “I hope he knows what he’s if you did the whole trip. Had it their trip began. doing,” Henry mumbled, but he not been so early in the season, As the car climbed through knew that even if the photographs traffic congestion would surely Engineer’s Lariat and negotiated failed to come out right, the day have hampered their progress. the Double Hairpin, the view of would hold many pleasant At a rock wall near the top, Golden receded in the distance. memories. they finally saw several other “So many interesting names along The travelers also stopped to travelers, some of whom were this route,” exclaimed Marjorie. “I rest the car, refilling its brass daring enough to climb out on wonder who was responsible for radiator at the conveniently spaced the rocks to look northward along creating them.” At Windy Point, springs they passed along the way. the foothills. “You can see all the they were able to get a view Although this was an excellent way to Boulder from here,” Henry westward along Clear Creek road, built by “Cement Bill” remarked to no one in Canyon as well as back toward the Williams back in 1914, the steep particular. plains. The Beaver Brook Trail curves challenged the cars, and beckoned, and they resolved to they took it slowly. The return some day for a hike along friends were it. “Just imagine what photographs reassured to I could get from there,” thought know that William. It was difficult to believe thousands of so many wonderful places existed similar cars had

Spring house: For the convenience of the thousands of automo- bilists and excursionists that visit this beautiful region annually, the city of Denver has added several shelter and spring houses.This view shows a spring house near the crest of Lookout Mountain, which makes an ideal location for the picnicker, giving him abun- dance of scenery, cool mountain spring water and shelter from inclement weather. -33- solid ground “This will wow the girls back at under her the office,” he mused. feet, so she “Let’s go,” Frank said— “time to could enjoy explore the rest of this scenic the views drive!” Given the late hour, the with the young ladies, though dreading the others, at trip back DOWN the Lariat Trail, last. A voted for the known in preference new- to the unknown that lay ahead. comer to Because it was already mid- Denver, afternoon, the men reluctantly she agreed to return to Denver. When wasn’t as used to the chauffeur reported a shortage mountain roads as they, and of carbide pellets for Once in a while, missed several of the vistas just Frank had the temerity to point because she shut her eyes out new views without even asking so tightly. While the the chauffeur to stop! The two others relaxed and tiny steel cables, stretched from rested at the one cut stone guardrail to the funicular station at next, did little to reassure Susan the top, Henry and Marjorie. They knew what climbed out on a precipitous drops lay below—the rock called Wildcat group and the little car had just Point overlooking the spent more than two hours entire Lariat Trail, the making the trip up! Thank route of their ascent. goodness the road was a full two There he stood for lanes—eighteen feet—wide! several minutes, admiring Finally the group reached the the incredible view, but Snowy Range, top, to find more also giving William plenty showing James Peak: Of glorious views of of time to capture his the many magnificent scenic features the mountains, daring pose. seen from the road in Denver’s new Mountain Park System, none surpass the canyons, and view obtained of the Snowy Range, plains. The long famous the world over.The view ride safely behind shows James Peak, one of the them, William highest peaks in this range. was able to persuade Susan the acetylene headlamps, to stand on a further persuasion was rock near the unnecessary. Despite a few road, where white knuckles on the hairpin there was no turns, the driver clung to the danger of wheel, and they all breathed a falling. This she Auto sigh of relief at reaching level was glad to do, Road in Den- ground again. Happily tired, especially after ver Mountain Parks: One but refreshed by their day in the of the most popular trips out of her fears along Denver is through Denver’s new Mountain Park mountains, they hastened to be the way. She was system, just completed. It probably carries more tourists back in time for dinner. also glad to have than any other similar road in the State, and is considered Driving to Denver, as they one of the best improved highways in the country.

-34- discussed whether 2 and 7) appears to be an to dine at the Overland touring car dating Savoy or the to 1910 or earlier. Our Shirley Hotel, appreciation goes to them Frank thought to for providing details on himself, “Well, it vehicles from this time period. was certainly a This luxury car may have been great chance to a special model custom test the designed for touring, and was brakes.” perhaps used as an early bus for Next in the this trip. Other features include Lariat Loop The the wooden wheels, the cable or Plains from Summit Adventure Series: of Lookout Mountain: Lookout Moun- rope supports for the windshield, The touring friends tain, 7,512 feet high and twenty miles west of right-hand drive position, and the visit the Park of the Denver, is one of the most interesting scenic four entries on each side of the car. attractions in Colorado.The summit affords an Red Rocks. unsurpassed view of the plains to the east, as well (The Willys-Overland Model SS as the city of Denver, twenty miles distant. Touring Car has only three entries NOTES: Although allowed the cards to be printed per side.) our characters and events are locally. (Before about 1915, most somewhat fanciful, all other cards were printed in Germany, information in this article is factual. where higher quality printing was Captions are as printed on the available.) The company original postcards; cards are in the produced Lariat Loop or Chambers Colorado collections. All postcards are by postcards HHT Co., except where noted. between 1896 The Denver Mountain Park System and 1953, could be considered “new” in about according to 1915-20, and was “completed” with the Colorado the purchase of the Park of the Red State Archives. Rocks (1928) and Little Cub Creek Other companies (1929). appearing As a transitive verb (meaning “to frequently in the excite to enthusiastic admiration or Lariat Loop approval”), the word wow dates to collection included 1924, so Henry is a little ahead of Thayer Co. (a name his time here. As a noun, meaning used by HHT), “a striking success, a hit,” wow was Sanborn Souvenir in use as early as 1920. Co., Curteich, C.T. One of the more prolific of the American Art or early companies is identified on the Colortone cards, and cards simply as "HHT Co." and has Tichnor Quality Views, a logo of a kneeling Indian, with an among many. arrow forming the divide between As best can be View from Wild- the address and message areas. These determined by Clint cat Point, Lookout Mountain: Some of the most interesting scenic fea- cards were published by the H. H. Raymond (of Morrison tures in the state are seen from the road Tammen Curio Company, owned Carworks) and Sam Rizzo, through Denver’s new Mountain Park Sys- by Harry Tammen of the Denver the car enthusiasts consulted, tem, of which Wildcat Point is one of the most noted and affords an unsurpassed Post, whose facilities may have this vehicle (except in images view of the plains to the east.

-35- JEFFERSON COUNTY Dolores A. Ebner Historic Preservationist, Citizen Advocate, Volunteer, Writer, Poet

Dolores A. Ebner came to Chairman to that Historical She is a member of the Friends Jefferson County 37 years ago. Society committee, and as of Ken-Caryl, devoted to civic As a volunteer, Dolores lead her President of the Ken-Caryl involvement. She worked five children’s elementary, junior Ranch Senior Women’s Club. tirelessly for the preservation of high and high schools PTAs the Bradford House, and and PTSA as Vice President is a fervent supporter of and President. She was historical-archaeological active at the Wheat Ridge research at the Bradford United Church of Christ House II site. Her book, and on the board of Friends “The Bradford Years 1859- of the Denver Public 1876” tells the fascinating Library. Dolores worked to story of the first pioneer, establish the advisory board Major Robert Boyles for the Jefferson County Bradford, who settled the schools and was an original land now known as Ken- member of Advocacy for Caryl Ranch in unincor- Children and Youth. At porated Jefferson County. the Jefferson County She is well-known for her Community Center in persistent work to restore the Arvada, Dolores developed Bradford House built in a program training 1859 at Ken-Caryl Ranch. developmentally disabled Thanks to her indefatigable adults for the working efforts, the Bradford House world. She collected door was designated to the State to door for the American Register of Historic Heart Association and the Dolores A. Ebner Properties. Cancer Society and devoted Dolores is known as a her time as chairman to the She helps edit the monthly creative, enthusiastic, energetic, Jefferson County United Way publication of the Posse of the and persevering person. Her board. She volunteered many Denver-Westerners, “The dedication and contributions to years at Lutheran Hospital. Roundup,” and writes a the County have enriched the In Ken-Caryl Ranch, Dolores monthly column on local lives of many around her. dedicated many hours as history for “Life at Ken-Caryl.”

-36- HALL OF FAME

John C. Vivian: Jefferson County’s Only State Governor

John C. Vivian is the only Jefferson ernor commuted to the capitol on the the Governor tended carefully to County native to ever serve as gover- Denver interurban street car. administrative responsibilities. In 1943, nor of the state. He was born in Governor Vivian governed the state he signed a bill authorizing the Col- Golden in 1887 and attended Golden during a tumultuous time in Col- orado State Historical Society to be schools. He graduated from the Uni- orado history. At first he was subject part of the Executive Department of versity of Colorado, earned a law to the many New Deal directives state government to assure permanent degree from the University of Denver enacted during the Depression. He funding for the organization.

in 1913, and was admitted to the Photo Courtesy of Coors Brewery Notwithstanding the daily press- Colorado Bar the same year. ing needs of governing the state dur- He first practiced law in Golden, ing the war, Governor Vivian’s vision while also working for a newspaper went beyond the present situation to in Boulder. With a flair for written visualize future changes the state expression, he secretly wrote entertain- would face after the war. Anticipating ing poetry under an assumed name inevitable growth, adequate trans- for a Chicago newspaper. When portation would be essential. As early World War I broke out, he enlisted as 1944, he set aside funds to com- as a Corporal in the United States plete the Valley Highway, which even- Marine Corps and served from 1918 tually became U.S. Interstate 25. He to 1919, retiring with the rank of saw the need for a direct route to Captain. Boulder and planned the Denver- With his law degree, John C. Boulder turnpike. With the dawn of Vivian was a natural to enter the John C.Vivian the atomic age, he perceived the need political arena. He served with dis- of atomic energy and supported the tinction as City Attorney of Golden, was also responsible for following reg- Rocky Flats Project. He was not only he advanced to County Attorney, ulations from the federal government instrumental in initially locating the and eventually became assistant to for our country at war. A staunch Remington Arms Plant in Jefferson the Attorney General of Colorado. believer in states’ rights, he had a life- County, but he also worked hard to He was elected Lieutenant Governor long distaste for the bureaucracy. retain the facility to become the Den- in 1939 for two terms and was elect- He was challenged to provide men ver Federal Center. ed Governor in 1943 for another and women to fill military quotas, to Governor Vivian was not a flamboy- four years. meet the demands of the War Pro- ant politician. He did not seek adula- In 1927, John C. Vivian married duction Board for defense industries, tion. He was a humble man who once Maude C. Kleyn, a professor of music to oversee a Japanese internment wrote, “I feel somewhat in the category at the University of Denver. The new- camp, to enforce restrictive rationing of the maxim ‘A man can do a tremen- lyweds built a beautiful house in Wide of shortages, to introduce Civil dous amount of good in the world if Acres, a secluded elite residential area Defense measures, to maintain state- he cares not who gets credit for it.’” east of Golden. Because there was no wide military bases, to promote the Former Governor John C. Vivian, official home for the Governor, this sale of war bonds, and to be totally who spent his entire life in Jefferson charming house became the Gover- committed to bring a successful com- County, was a lifelong devoted public nor’s Mansion where they entertained pletion of the war. servant who rightfully belongs in the visiting dignitaries. Each day the Gov- In addition to his wartime duties, Jefferson County Hall of Fame.

-37- THE BENEFITS OF LOCAL DESIGNATION: WHAT LOCAL DESIGNATION OF YOUR HISTORIC STRUCTURE CAN DO FOR YOU

by Kris Christensen* contributes to the integrity of the National Register can apply to locally As a professional preservationist, I am area, or in the case of an individual designated landmarks as well. frequently asked about the proper structure, the commission can delay Colorado has an incentive in the form tools for protecting historic structures. demolition for a period of one year. of an income tax credit for owners of Frankly, not all tools are equal and Many communities nationwide have designated properties who restore some do not solve all the issues with ordinances similar to Denver’s. What them. Properties can be locally the long-term protection of buildings. an ordinance or regulation carries in it designated and participate in this However, without State, National and depends greatly on participation by program. In some cases, a property local designations, much of our residents, local officials and staff that is locally designated can compete historic built environment would be members of the agency that will be for restoration funds from the lost. Perhaps the best of these tools in charge of enforcing the rules. Colorado State Historical Fund. Pride is local designation. When a structure or district (a in ownership of a local landmark can Many of you may be familiar with collection of buildings) is nominated certainly be equal to that of a State or State and National Register for local designation, the application National Register property. The added designation. The State and National goes through a rigorous process of benefit to local designation is the Register can provide avenues to tax review by governmental staff and often listing of properties that are important credits and funding sources. Creating a volunteer committee made up of to our understanding of county incentives for historic preservation is historians, architects, archeologists, history, but are not found to be a key tool to insuring the survivability planners and related fields to historic eligible for the State or National of an important structure. State and preservation. In some cases, the Register. A good example of a National listing can protect a building government may have the volunteer landmark that should be designated that is threatened by an action committee be the sole designator. In is the Governor Vivian home in involving state or federal funding, most communities, the committee southwest Applewood. This home, due and in some cases being eligible for recommends an action to a to alterations, was found not to be designation can provide the same governing body, such as a board of eligible for designation on the State protection. The pride of a community commissioners or city council. For or National Registers. However, with in a designated building can lead to example, the Greeley Landmark a county ordinance we can be more public action should it be threatened. Preservation Commission directly flexible about additions and could Unfortunately, when private funds are makes designations, the similar feasibly list it locally. Without a local involved, these designations do little commission in Denver can only designation, this property could more than document a structure. A recommend action to the city council. become vulnerable to the property owner can literally demolish Once designated, the rules of the redevelopment efforts along Colfax a building the day after it is listed. governing ordinance or regulation are Avenue. Designation would also give There may be pride in ownership of a applied to the building or district. the current and future owners an landmark, but this is not a universal The members of the Jefferson incentive to continue to preserve value held by all citizens. County Historical Commission have the home. Most local ordinances for landmark been working with county planning It is past time for us to look to preservation actually do a better job staff on a countywide regulation. The preservation tools such as designation, of protecting an historic resource than county staff can determine how the not only to preserve our heritage, but the State or National Register. Local proposed landmark regulation interacts as a tool for land management and designation is accomplished through with other land-use codes and helps growth. By recognizing our past, we the enactment of an ordinance or determine if the regulation fits with can create a future that recognizes county regulation that becomes part current planning goals. In the case of both our past and our present. of land-use and zoning codes. These the proposed ordinance for Jeffco, the ordinances can be as simple as the commission has also considered *Kris Christensen is a native Jefferson ability to identify and list a resource to comments of the Commissioners and County resident and former member as complex as carrying waiting periods residents. As a result, the ordinance in of the Jefferson County Historical for demolition and design review for our county is not likely to be as strict Commission. She has worked as a changes. For instance, in Denver a as Denver’s. However, it is important preservation advocate for Colorado landmark district created under their for the county to pass this regulation Preservation, Inc. and currently works preservation ordinance carries the so that our residents can capitalize on for Historic Denver. She lives in the ability for a commission to deny the benefits of preservation. home where she was raised, three blocks demolition of a historic structure that The advantages of the State and from the historic Governor Vivian home. -38- HISTORIC DESIGNATIONS IN JEFFCO

RIO GRANDE SOUTHERN RAILROAD ENGINE NO. 20

The narrow gauge Rio Grande Southern Railroad Engine No.20 is on exhibit in the

yard of the Colorado Photo courtesy of Rocky Mountain Railroad Club Railroad Museum in Golden. This ten-wheeler and its tender were built than their mid-western and eastern too heavy for these light rails, they by the Schenectady Locomotive cousins, their travel time roughly were then moved to and used out Works of Schenectady in New York equaled that of passenger trains. In of Salida. Financial problems in in April 1899. It is one of three 1904, a flood washed away most of 1929, and the arrival of gasoline remaining engines of this kind in the tracks in Phantom Canyon, and powered cars, known as Galloping Colorado. The engine and its tender after a second flood in 1912, when Geese, drove ten-wheelers No. 20, are 49 ft. 1 in. long; the engine a 30 ft. wall of water crashed down 22, and 25 back into heavier freight itself is 12 ft. 2 in. high; and the the canyon and ruined the tracks, service. The veteran engines were weight on the engine is 85,000 lbs. the F&CC was discontinued. Engine called into service during World This type of locomotive was in No. 20 was bought by the Rio War II, but the Diesel locomotives, service from 1894 until 1912 on the Grande Southern Railroad and run trucks and highways forced them first railroad of the Florence and between Durango and Ridgway until into final retirement after the war, Cripple Creek-Victor line, 1951. Ironically, when larger except for one last flash in August transporting fuel, mining supplies, locomotives were required for 1949, when Engine No. 25 posed in building materials, and merchandise. passenger travel, ten-wheelers, the movie “Ticket to Tomahawk.” The resulting lower transportation including Engine No. 20, were Engine No. 20 is owned by the cost allowed the mining district to relegated to secondary passenger Rocky Mountain Railroad Club, further expand. These engines were lines and used for light freight whose volunteers painstakingly especially useful for passenger trains trains, and the lighter work granted restored it. The locomotive is on sustained grades of railroading in them a longer life span. publicly displayed at the Colorado the Colorado mountains, where Rio Grande Southern Railroad Railroad Museum at 17155 West they climbed close to 4,200 ft over acquired Engines No. 20, 22, and 44th Avenue in Golden. For show 40 miles. Rail travel in the western 25 in 1916. The engines were run times and further information U.S. in the 1890s, crossing high between Durango and Telluride. please contact the museum at altitudes at slow speeds, was most In places between Rico and Stoner 303-279-4591. reliable, preferably with only one Creek, engineers were advised to The engine was listed in the engine. Although western ten- drive the heavy locomotives no National Register of Historic Places wheelers, or 4-6-0s, resembled faster than 12 mph on the 30 lbs. on December 14, 2000. freighters and had smaller wheels tracks. Because the engines proved

-39- HISTORIC DESIGNATIONS IN JEFFCO

DENVER & RIO GRANDE WESTERN RAILROAD CABOOSE NO. 0578

The Denver & Rio Grande (D&GR) Caboose 0578 was built in 1886 in a D&RG shop as one of 124 narrow Photo courtesy Rocky Mountain Railroad Club gauge cabooses owned by the D&RG at a cost of $685. It holds the forms that the conductor narrow gauge lines, except for some was assigned Class 2 as one of 16 may have used. The desk is lighted tracks between Alamosa and cabooses built between 1885 and by a kerosene lamp. A counter Durango. Two short segments, the 1890. In 96 years, the crews of the hides a basin under a water reservoir Cumbres and Toltec Scenic Railroad 124 cabooses of the D&RG served a with a faucet, and a stove and a and the Durango Silverton Narrow total of 10,849 freight and work cars coal hopper provide heat for Gauge Railroad remain as tourist down to 967 cars in 1969, the last cooking and warming. Two bunks attractions. year of operation. accommodate the railroad crew for The Rocky Mountain Railroad The 17 foot long caboose with sleeping. Club purchased Caboose 0578 in its 2 four-wheel trucks was larger During the height of operation, 1951 from the D&RG for $204. than its predecessor Class 1 and at about 1890, the D&RG narrow Volunteers of the RMRC are provided the cars with greater gauge system reached from Santa restoring the caboose at the stability and comfort for its Fe, New Mexico throughout much Colorado Railroad Museum in operating crew. Its center is of the southwest of Colorado to Golden to its original condition. crowned by a cupola. Between the Salt Lake City, Utah. The railroad Today the caboose is appraised at doors at each end a platform is converted its main line from narrow $14,000. closed off by a railing and covered gauge to standard gauge in 1889, Caboose 0578 was listed in the by an extension of the roof. From retaining many miles of narrow State Register of Historic Properties each platform a ladder leads to the gauge track in Colorado. Portions in the Spring of 2001 for the roof of the caboose, where a of that system were converted into significance of its sixty-six year walkway extends beyond the roof three rail tracks for both standard association with the operation of on each side. and narrow gauge tracks and the railroad’s narrow gauge system The inside of the caboose is remained that way until the narrow and in the area of engineering as a furnished with a small slant-top gauge system was no longer used. rare surviving example of a Class 2 desk hanging on the wall. A three- The D&RG eventually Rio Grande caboose. slotted container behind the desk discontinued the unprofitable

-40- HISTORIC DESIGNATIONS IN JEFFCO

BRADFORD HOUSE II ARCHEOLOGICAL SITE A small prehistoric rock shelter in a was used to prepare food, and there since about 1540. It can only valley surrounded by imposing provided light and warmth at night be assumed that erosion or soil rocks attests to the prehistoric and during colder seasons. The depositions may have forced the peoples who lived there off and on inhabitants crafted different kinds of inhabitants to move away and to throughout some 4,500 years. Their projectile points to hunt animals as seek better living space elsewhere. occupation of the site has been diverse as elk, mule deer, rabbits, This site was listed in the traced from the Middle Archaic Age rodents, birds, amphibians, reptiles, National Register for Historic Places between 3000-1000 B.C. to the and sometimes a bighorn sheep. for its potential to provide a greater Middle Ceramic or Late Prehistoric They also caught fish. Local plants, understanding of the lifeways of Age between A.D. 1150 and 1540. such as sunflowers, wild plums, these prehistoric people who Already the earliest inhabitants acorn and choke berry completed a inhabited the area. It could answer found shelter under rocks warmed plentiful diet. Awls, reamers and questions about settlement, by the sun. Repeated chinook winds scrapers made from bone were subsistence, and the use of contributed to mild and fairly dry found which may have been used to geological materials. weather conditions. Winter snow prepare clothing from animal skins. melted quickly. A slab-lined hearth No one appears to have lived

HISTORIC MUSEUMS IN JEFFCO Hildebrand Farm at Chatfield Nature Preserve

It was 1866 when German farming at Clear Creek. The Deer opportunity to raise oats, barley, immigrants Frank and Elizabeth Creek property would give two more sugar beets, grass for hay and a family Hildebrand bought their 160-acre generations of Hildebrands the garden, as well as dairy cows, horses farm along Deer Photo courtesy Chatfield Nature Preserve and chickens. Creek. The grassy Through the valley floor at the years, they foot of the acquired a total hogback welcomed of over two them back to the thousand eight land. Frank had hundred acres of spent the last few neighboring land years working the to raise Hereford placer mines near cattle. Georgetown and Ironically, running a supply another flood wagon from played a big role Denver to in the fate of the Cheyenne. The Hildebrands. Clear Creek flood When torrential of 1864 had all rains at the but wiped them headwaters of out when they nearby Plum previously set up Creek fell in

-41- HISTORIC MUSEUMS IN JEFFCO

Hildebrand Farm (continued from p. 41) Denver Botanic Gardens took up National Register of Historic Places. 1965, a wall of rushing water wiped out management of 750 acres of the federal Several grants (Berger Foundation and almost everything in the flood’s path, land in 1973, as a lease was signed Colorado Historical Society) have con- even as it entered the South Platte between the City of Denver and the tributed to the restoration of these River and rushed through downtown Army Corps of Engineers. Parts of this buildings. A recent grant from the Col- Denver. The US Army Corps of Engi- land were formerly acreage of the orado Historical Fund will provide the neers had been contemplating flood Green farm as well as the Hildebrand means for interpretation of early farm control measures for the Chatfield site farm. Although Denver Botanic Gar- life (1915-1925). Any assistance with of the South Platte and the Plum dens originally had plans for the land developing content material for this Creek event pushed it into reality. to become an Arboretum, a recent area, during or leading up to that time When dam plans were laid out, the name change has taken it in the direc- would be greatly appreciated. Also, any Hildebrands discovered that much of tion of a nature preserve. Each year, period artifacts that would fit well with their land would be affected by the thousands of visitors come out to simple farm life, the house or activities, floodplains of the proposed Chatfield study the environment, participate in especially related to plants, would be Reservoir. Unfortunately, the Hilde- the annual Pumpkin Festival and corn welcome contributions. The Hilde- brands spent their last meal at their maze, picnic, enjoy bird watching, and brand farm will offer opportunities for centennial farm on Thanksgiving of learn about farm life in the earlier years visitors of all ages to connect with an 1975. As the land ownership reverted at the Hildebrand farm. The farmhouse earlier time and appreciate the valuable back to the US government and their and its outbuildings – granary, milking crops and hard work that came with grace period came to an end, family barn, icehouse, woodshed, outhouse, farm life. members moved to the next farm up stable, calving shed, carriage barn, For information call the Chatfield Deer Creek that was also family owned. garage and bunkhouse- are listed on the Nature Preserve at: 303-973-3705.

INTERNATIONAL BELL MUSEUM Bells have called millions to work, dine children could hear within a radius the Discovery Channel, National Public and worship, have located and protect- of 12 miles near Leadville, Colorado. Radio, NBC News, the New York ed domestic animals, opened their As owner, curator and narrating Times and Ripleys Believe It Or Not. voices in times of joy and sorrow, museum guide through the outdoor His parents built "Granite Glen" for sounded the alarm of impending dan- landscape and interior rooms of his a summer home on Evergreens Upper ger, summoned servants and school home, Jones tells visitors the origin Bear Creek in 1919. Jones spent every children, noted the time of day and (all 50 states and 60 countries) and summer there until his acting career in played wonderful music in every cul- use of every bell made of brass, glass, summer stock and Hollywood kept ture of the world for centuries. gold, wood, porcelain, crystal, clay, him busy. After serving four and one- Beginning with his bicycle bell when steel or iron. He has been featured on half years in the Army during World he was six-years old, Win- War II, he settled into Gran- ston H. Jones has been ite Glen in 1947. After his collecting bells for 82 of wife died in 1972, Jones his 88 years. His collection decided to share his passion of 8,000 bells is now the for bells with the public. largest in the world. The Tours of the International oldest bell is 3200 years Bell Museum are available old and another is carbon during the summer months dated at 1000 B.C. The by appointment. The $4 smallest measures less than admission fee helps Jones 1/4 inch in diameter and maintain the delightful and weighs less than one educational museum. Call ounce. One of the largest 303-674-3422. Story and is an 1882 school bell that photo by Carole Lomond.

-42- RESOURCES FOR HISTORIC PRESERVATION

AN OVERVIEW OF THE STATE HISTORICAL FUND The State Historical Fund for preservation planning, and Fund will be April 1, 2002. All Colorado was begun in 1993 as a education and training programs, proposed projects located in grant program to promote historic and must generally be applied to unincorporated Jefferson County preservation throughout the state. properties designated on National, must be submitted 30 days in Since its inception, more than 1873 state or local registers of historic advance (March 1, 2002) to the grants and over $91.5 million have places. Surveys and nominations Grants Committee of the Jefferson been awarded to eligible public and for non-designated properties are County Historical Commission for non-profit entities. Funds available also funded. review and sign-off. for the 2001-2002 grant cycle, a Examples of Jefferson County The Grants Committee of the portion of gaming revenues from projects funded to date include Jefferson County Historical Central City, Black Hawk and stabilization and interpretation at Commission can provide interested Cripple Creek, are expected to Dinosaur Ridge near Morrison, parties with information and exceed $15 million. assessment and restoration of Hiwan assistance. Contact for questions Individual grant amounts range Homestead in Evergreen, assessment and submittals: Jefferson County from $2500 to in excess of $100,000 and restoration of Old Golden High Historical Commission Grants and must usually be accompanied School in Golden, as well as a Committee, c/o Duncan by a 25% cash match. Preservation comprehensive cultural resource McCollum, Jefferson County projects run the gamut from survey for all of unincorporated Archives and Records Management restoration and rehabilitation of Jefferson County. Future issues of Dept., 100 Jefferson County historic buildings, architectural Historically Jeffco will feature Parkway, Room 1500, Golden, CO assessments, archaeological current grant projects in the county. 80401, Phone 303-271-8446. excavations, designation and The upcoming deadline for grant interpretation of historic places, applications for the State Historical

A NATIONAL PROGRAM TO PRESERVE HISTORIC FARM BUILDINGS “There’s No Barn Like an Old Barn” Farmers and ranchers are known replaced with new structures for their resourcefulness, stamina lacking the same individuality and and proud traditions. craftsmanship. Colorado BARN Barns and other agricultural AGAIN! encourages landowners structures embody the strong to view their classic barns as assets character of rural Colorado and that can be rehabilitated to serve Jefferson County. a variety of uses in modern But the agricultural industry is agriculture. Old barns can be changing, and as it changes the adapted for modern livestock buildings facilities or The barn at Clifton House. Photo by Milly Roeder that Grade A symbolize dairies. our They can agricultural provide heritage are generous being torn storage down and space for

-43- The Colorado Centennial Farm Award recognizes farms and ranches that have Centennial farms and ranches with Agriculture and the Colorado remained in the same family for buildings that are more than 50 Historical Society to recognize the more than 100 years. An additional years old. The Centennial Farm important role agriculture has award, the Centennial Farm Awards Program was inaugurated played in the settlement and Historic Structures Award honors by the Colorado Department of (continued on page 44)

Colorado Barn Again (continued from page 43) equipment or hay at a fraction of our past. BARN AGAIN! seeks to Department of Agriculture, the cost of a new structure. They encourage landowners and other Colorado State University make comfortable and efficient interested individuals to restore Cooperative Extension, the farm shops. barns and rural structures through: Colorado Historical Society, and Barn rehabilitation for income- • Awards – annual BARN AGAIN! the National Trust for Historic producing purposes can have tax Preservation Awards recognize Preservation. Colorado BARN advantages, as well. Colorado successful examples of barn AGAIN! Preservation Awards are BARN AGAIN! can provide preservation in Colorado. funded, in part, by the AgJournal. information on how you may • Educational programs – provid- Nationwide, BARN AGAIN! has qualify for these financial benefits. ing technical support on practi- provided technical assistance to If you have already completed a cal and economical solutions more than 6,000 barn owners in all barn rehabilitation project, or just to common barn rehabilitation 50 states. Over 100 farmers and maintained your barn through the problems. ranchers have been honored for years, you may qualify for a • Publications – current informa- their outstanding barn preservation Colorado BARN AGAIN! tion on barn preservation tech- efforts. The nation’s BARN Preservation Award. niques, new uses for older farm AGAIN! program was launched Save the Barns! Historic barns buildings, and historic preserva- in 1987 by the National Trust are one of the strongest and most tion programs. for Historic Preservation and visible symbols of Colorado’s Colorado BARN AGAIN! is a Successful Farming Magazine. For agricultural heritage. cooperative effort of the Colorado more information about Colorado As Colorado’s Barn at Beaver Ranch, Foxton Road and Hwy. 285. BARN AGAIN! or to population grows, these request a nomination important historic and form the year’s cultural landmarks are BARN AGAIN! being lost, victims of Preservation Award changing land uses, competition, please changing agricultural call 1-800-886-7683. practices and neglect. Applications for the Colorado BARN AGAIN! annual competition must is an effort to save these be postmarked by important statements of October 1 of each year.

-44- Photo by Milly Roeder The information in this magazine is solely provided by the authors. JCHC, the Board of County Commissioners and the Historically Jeffco committee are not responsible for the opinions of authors and the content of their articles. Readers are invited to write to “Historically Jeffco,” 100 Jefferson County The Jefferson County Historical Commission members Parkway, c/o Archives and Records are appointed by the Board of County Commissioners. Management, Room 1500, Golden, The current County Commissioners are (from left): CO 80419. Copies can be purchased Richard Sheehan, Michelle Lawrence and Pat Holloway. for $5 at the Department of The Archives and Records Management Department Jefferson County Archives and Records Management. has periodicals and other information available for Historical Commission The magazine is available free of people interested in history and historic preservation charge to members of Jefferson in Jefferson County. For information call Duncan County Historical Societies. McCollum at 303-271-8446.

JEFFCO WRITERS AWARD CONTEST Jefferson County Historical Commission invites writers of all ages to participate in its Writers’ Award Contest. All topics must relate directly to the factual history of Jefferson County. For new contest rules and application forms, please contact Duncan McCollum at Archives and Records Management Department at 303-271-8446.

CENTENNIAL FARMS (continued) JCHC NEWS

(continued from page 44) (continued from page 1) development of Colorado, and To qualify for the additional The Placenames project is an honor the contributions made by Centennial Farm-Historic Structures ongoing effort. Charles Hanson, the state’s long-standing farm and Award, your farm or ranch must enrolled in a Masters Program at ranching families. include buildings or structures that the University of Colorado at In order to have a farm or ranch are over 50 years old. Denver in Colorado History and Historic Preservation, will complete certified as a Centennial Farm, the Applications must be received by his course work with a thesis on th owner must submit an application April 30 of each year. Recipients our Placenames information. He will form giving information about the of Centennial Farm Awards will be be doing additional research that history of the farm and its honored in an annual ceremony at will enhance and add to information buildings, and indicate that the the Colorado State Fair. on the database available on Jefferson County’s home page. farm meets the following The Colorado Centennial Farm You can access the site at requirements: program is sponsored by the http://co.jefferson.co.us and then 1. It must be a working farm or Colorado State Fair, the Colorado follow the link labeled “researching ranch Department of Agriculture, and the historic places in Jefferson County.” 2. It must have a minimum of Colorado Historical Society. We also want to establish a calendar on this web site with 160 acres; or if less than 160 Support for the program has been activities from all Historical acres, must have gross yearly provided by the National Trust for Societies in the County that are sales of at least $1,000 Historic Preservation. planned during the year. For more 3. It must have been in your Contact Sarah Chandler information please contact the family continuously for at least 303-866-3392 Archives and Records Department at 303-271-8446. 100 years -45- DON’T MISS THESE JEFFERSON COUNTY SITES

Clockwise from top left: Breathtaking views of the Continental Divide from Lookout Mountain; Pahaska Tepee at Buffalo Bill’s Grave and Museum; Mother Cabrini Shrine;Tiny Town; and Dinosaur Ridge. Read about these, and many more historic sites in Jefferson County in this issue of Historically Jeffco.

Jefferson County Historical Commission Prsrt Std 100 Jefferson County Parkway U.S. Postage c/o Archives and Records Management, Room 1500 PAID Golden, CO 80419 Permit #148 Golden, CO