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Ascending System

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Ascending System Ascending System Overview Copyright © 2019 by the Appalachian Mountain Club. All rights reserved. Revised 2019-03-21 Table of Contents Ascending Scenarios Page 3 Stuck Climber - Rigging to Ascend Pages 4-18 Options Page 4 Option 1: Standing Start Page 6 Option 2: Sitting Start Page 12 Ascending Pages 19-30 Ascending - Step by Step Page 19 Passing a Ledge - Step by Step Page 25 Stuck Rappeler - Rigging to Ascend Pages 31-49 Options Page 31 Option 1: Remove Rappel Device Page 33 Option 2: Use Rappel Device Page 41 Stuck Climber: Fallen under an overhang and can’t get back on the rock or otherwise can’t complete a route Stuck Stuck Rappeler: Stuck Ropes don’t reach the Rappeler Climber ground or the next anchor or are caught on something. Ascending Scenarios Stuck Climber Rigging to Ascend Options Sitting Start: Prusik cord Doesn’t require (waist loop) clipping the waist loop Sling while standing. (foot loop) Foot loop above waist loop for first few moves makes it tough Prusik cord to move the waist (waist loop) loop. Foot loop can be Standing Start: moved below the Requires clipping the waist loop after a few waist loop while moves to make it standing on the foot easier loop. Waist loop is always above the foot loop making it easier to Sling Climber’s move the waist loop. (foot loop) Belay Loop* *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity Stuck Climber Rigging to Ascend Step by Step Option 1: Standing Start To anchor/belayer Stuck Climber Rigging to Ascend (Standing) Starting condition: Hanging from the end of the climbing rope by the tie-in knot. Climber’s Belay Loop* *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity Stuck Climber Rigging to Ascend (Standing) 1. Use sling to tie klemheist on climbing rope above harness tie-in knot. Water knot (or sling stitching) Klemheist Sling (foot loop) *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity Stuck Climber Rigging to Ascend Klemheist (Standing) 1. Use sling to tie klemheist on climbing rope Prusik cord above harness tie-in knot. (waist loop) 2. Use prusik cord to tie a klemheist above Double sling on climbing rope. fisherman’s bend *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity Prusik cord Stuck Climber Rigging to Ascend (waist loop) (Standing) 1. Use sling to tie klemheist on climbing rope above harness tie-in knot. 2. Use prusik cord to tie a klemheist above sling on climbing rope. 3. Stand on sling (foot loop) to attach prusik cord to belay loop with locking carabiner. Locking Carabiner Sling (foot loop) Climber’s Belay Loop* *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity Prusik cord Stuck Climber Rigging to Ascend (waist loop) (Standing) 1. Use sling to tie klemheist on climbing rope above harness tie-in knot. 2. Use prusik cord to tie a klemheist above sling on climbing rope. 3. Stand on sling (foot loop) to attach prusik cord to belay loop with locking carabiner. You are now ready to ascend Sling (foot loop) *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity Stuck Climber Rigging to Ascend Step by Step Option 2: Sitting Start To anchor/belayer Stuck Climber Rigging to Ascend (Sitting) Starting condition: Hanging from the end of the climbing rope by the tie-in knot. Climber’s Belay Loop* *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity Stuck Climber Rigging to Ascend (Sitting) 1. Use prusik cord to tie klemheist on climbing rope above harness tie-in knot. Klemheist Prusik cord (waist loop) Double fisherman’s bend *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity Stuck Climber Rigging to Ascend (Sitting) 1. Use prusik cord to tie klemheist on climbing rope above harness tie-in knot. 2. Attach prusik cord to belay loop with locking carabiner. Prusik cord (waist loop) Locking carabiner Climber’s Belay Loop* *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity Stuck Climber Rigging to Ascend Water knot (Sitting) (or sling stitching) 1. Use prusik cord to tie klemheist on climbing Klemheist rope above harness tie-in knot. 2. Attach prusik cord to belay loop with locking carabiner. 3. Use a sling to tie a klemheist above prusik cord on climbing rope. Prusik cord (waist loop) Sling (foot loop) *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity Stuck Climber Rigging to Ascend (Sitting) 1. Use prusik cord to tie klemheist on climbing rope above harness tie-in knot. 2. Attach prusik cord to belay loop with locking carabiner. 3. Use a sling to tie a klemheist above prusik cord on climbing rope. Prusik cord (waist loop) You are now ready to ascend Sling (foot loop) *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity Prusik cord Stuck Climber Rigging to Ascend Sling (waist loop) (Sitting) (foot loop) 1. Use prusik cord to tie klemheist on climbing rope above harness tie-in knot. 2. Attach prusik cord to belay loop with locking carabiner. 3. Use a sling to tie a klemheist above prusik cord on climbing rope. You are now ready to ascend 4. The foot loop can be re-tied below the waist loop after making a few feet of progress up the rope. This will make it easier to move the waist loop. Climber’s Belay Loop* *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity Ascending Step by Step To anchor/belayer Ascending - Step by Step 1. Set up ascending system as shown** Klemheist Prusik cord (waist loop) Water knot (or sling stitching) Double fisherman’s bend Locking carabiner Climber’s Belay Loop* Anchor sling (foot loop) Tie-in or Backup Knot *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity **Note: Order of operations is the same if the foot loop is above the waist loop or if using a backup knot instead of a tie-in knot Prusik cord (waist loop) Ascending - Step by Step 1. Set up ascending system as shown** 2. Stand in the foot loop and slide the waist loop as high as possible *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity **Note: Order of operations is the same if the foot loop is above the waist loop or if using a backup knot instead of a tie-in knot Ascending - Step by Step 1. Set up ascending system as shown** Anchor sling (foot loop) 2. Stand in the foot loop and slide the waist loop as high as possible 3. Sit on the waist loop and slide the foot loop as high as possible *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity **Note: Order of operations is the same if the foot loop is above the waist loop or if using a backup knot instead of a tie-in knot Ascending - Step by Step 1. Set up ascending system as shown** 2. Stand in the foot loop and slide the waist loop as high as possible 3. Sit on the waist loop and slide the foot loop as high as possible 4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 to make progress up the rope *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity **Note: Order of operations is the same if the harness loop is above the foot loop. Ascending - Step by Step 1. Set up ascending system as shown.** Climber’s 2. Stand up on sling (foot loop) and slide prusik Belay Loop* cord (waist loop) up as high as possible. 3. Sit in harness to hang on prusik cord (waist loop) and slide the sling (foot loop) up as high as possible. 4. Repeat steps 2-3 to move up the rope. 5. Clip the climbing rope to the belay loop with a figure 8 on a bight and locking carabiner every 5 feet or so as a backup. Backup knot *Note: Tie-in knot shown on belay loop for clarity **Note: Order of operations is the same if the harness loop is above the foot loop. Passing a Ledge Step by Step To anchor/belayer Passing a Ledge - Step by Step 1. Ascend up as far as possible, until waist loop can’t move past lip of the ledge. Inconvenient Ledge Prusik cord (waist loop) Anchor sling (foot loop) Climber’s Belay Loop* *Note: Backup knot omitted for clarity Passing a Ledge - Step by Step Anchor sling 1. Ascend up as far as possible, until waist loop (foot loop) can’t move past lip of the ledge. 2. Re-tie foot loop as high as possible above Inconvenient Ledge lip. *Note: Backup knot omitted for clarity Anchor sling (foot loop) Passing a Ledge - Step by Step 1. Ascend up as far as possible, until waist loop can’t move past lip of the ledge. 2. Re-tie foot loop as high as possible above lip. Inconvenient Ledge 3. Stand in foot loop and slide waist loop past the lip. Prusik cord (waist loop) *Note: Backup knot omitted for clarity Prusik cord (waist loop) Passing a Ledge - Step by Step 1. Ascend up as far as possible, until waist loop can’t move past lip of the ledge. 2. Re-tie foot loop as high as possible above lip. Inconvenient Ledge 3. Stand in foot loop and slide waist loop past the lip. 4. Re-tie foot loop below waist loop. Anchor sling (foot loop) *Note: Backup knot omitted for clarity Prusik cord (waist loop) Passing a Ledge - Step by Step 1. Ascend up as far as possible, until waist loop can’t move past lip of the ledge.
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