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Climbing Section V9.Pub Rock Climbing Revision 9 July 2019 1 Climbing EE Climbing Philosophies 1. To provide parcipants with a professionally facilitated rock climbing experi- ence. 2. To provide parcipants with knowledge about all aspects of rock climbing. 3. To introduce parcipants to healthy and posive recreaonal acvies. 4. Allow Instructors opportunies to grow as leaders and Instructors. 5. To help individuals learn to depend on themselves by responding to progressive physical and mental challenges. 6. To promote trust and responsibility. 7. To experience the pleasure of standing in high places. Instructor Responsibilies/Expectaons 1. Must maintain professionalism throughout course. 2. At least 1 Instructor should be familiar with the climbing area. 3. Select climbs that are appropriate for the skill level of the parcipants. 4. Instructors should inspect all climbing gear at the beginning of each day. 5. Instructors on each trip should have accessible: a. First Aid kit b. Knife c. Prusik cord d. Extra locking carabiners e. 4’ sling f. GRIGRI or Cinch g. ATC 6. EE Instructor to student rao is 3:9 7. Maintain high level of situaonal awareness using the SHERPA model. a. Site Hazards: rock fall, access, anchors top/boom, tripping hazards, etc. b. Environmental Risks: weather, other climbers, bees, etc. c. People: evaluaon of leadership and parcipant i.e. physical, mental and technical ability. d. Anomalies: awareness of events that deviate from normal. Trip Leading Tasks Basics: 1. 3 Instructors are necessary, 4 Instructors max: a. 1 Lead b. 1 or 2 Assistants c. 1 Apprence 2. Trainees and are not expected to perform leadership tasks except upon request. 2 Climbing 3. Set up at most 3 ropes. Be considerate of other climbers/groups. Remember to have an Instructor oversee each rope system. 4. If the group stops using a rope, take it down. Pre-Trip Meeng: 1. Follow all Office/Logisc procedures which can be found on the “Instructor Resources” webpage. 2. Send out an email outlining the Pre-Trip meeng me/locaon and when the belay classes at the wall occur. 3. Meet with the Instructor team and go over plan for the pre trip and trip. 4. Pre Trips (mandatory) a. Introducons, risks b. Locaon, mes, weather, what to bring, highly encourage parcipants to get belay cerfied at wall before the trip. c. Equipment pull/pack Day of Trip: 1. Show up at least 15 minutes ahead of scheduled parcipant arrival me to get vehicles and let parcipants in the office. 2. Instructors welcome parcipants, check to see if they brought water, rain gear, and closed-toe shoes. 3. Send out Emergency Acon Plan (EAP) before departure. 4. Instructors double check that they have all their equipment and the trip folder. At Climbing Site: 1. 2 Instructors set up ropes, check each other’s anchors and head down. 2. 1 or 2 Instructors go over site management, harnesses, helmets, other lessons while waing for ropes to be set up. 3. Go over belaying. (See belaying secon). 4. Lessons on climbing movement or other lessons. 5. Instructors rotate through observing the different belay staons. Post-Trip: 1. Make parcipants bring their gear up to the lockers to check back in. 2. Lay out all the gear and take inventory. 3. Put everything away in the locker. 4. Have parcipants complete trip evaluaons. 5. Complete course paperwork (Outdoor Trip Report and Instructor Evaluaons) when you get back and return it to the Climbing Coordinator's mailbox. Risk Management 1. Helmets a. MUST be worn by anyone standing above or below the climbing area or in the rock zone. b. MUST be worn on all 4th and 5th class terrain. 3 Climbing c. MUST be worn anyme there is danger of rock fall. d. Helmet must be fied properly. Level on head and chin strap secured. e. Helmets can be removed in a designated area away from potenal rock fall and climbers. 2. Harnesses a. MUST be doubled backed and tails tucked in keeper loops on harness. b. MUST be secured just above their hip bones and fully ghtened. c. Parcipants may use their own harness based on the Instructors’ deci- sion regarding: wear and tear (thread damage/fading), harness design and funcon for the acvity, commercial design. d. Climber’s rope must pass through the waist belt and leg loop hard points. e. Belay loop is for belaying/rappelling and personal anchor tethers. 3. Equipment Check a. All instruconal equipment including: cams, stoppers, runners/slings, carabiners, ropes, harnesses and helmets must be inspected before using in the field. b. Harnesses, knots, belay device, and helmets must be checked before parcipants start to climb. Ideally, this is done by an Instructor and the belayer at the boom of the climb. 4. Rope Inspecon a. Inspect all ropes prior to leaving. b. Upon returning from a Sport Climbing trip report any substanal abuse each rope may have sustained on the rope log. d. Ropes must be washed aer every mul-day climbing trip as well as at the end of each semester. 5. The Edge a. No one (this includes Instructors) may stand closer than their height to the edge of the cliff without being ed in. b. Instructors must be ed in if they are near the edge, but may be on a length of rope that allows for movement around the climbing site. 6. Rock Fall/ Falling Objects a. Inform parcipants that if they see a rock falling or dislodge a rock yell “rock.” b. If they hear “rock” yelled from above get close to the wall, hide under helmet and look straight ahead. 7. Bouldering a. Do not allow bouldering below a roped climber. b. Do not allow bouldering without proper spong and pads. 8. Parcipants a. Have parcipants remove objects from body and clothing that could lead to injury. (i.e. rings, large earrings, necklaces) 4 Climbing b. Have parcipants tuck loose clothing into harness. c. Put long hair in a ponytail or under the helmet. d. Encourage parcipants to stretch before climbing. Care of Equipment 1. Always carry equipment in a bag/bin. Never place climbing equipment on any impermeable surfaces (asphalt parking lots/roads) or in the a trunk of a vehicle. Chemicals from vehicle baeries and fluids can severely damage climbing equip- ment and it may not be apparent! 2. So Goods a. Includes: webbing, slings, ropes, helmets, shoes, etc. b. Webbing is 1” tubular nylon, cordelee is 7mm nylon, Prusiks are 6mm nylon, stac ropes are 10mm, dynamic ropes are 10.2mm c. Stepping on rope introduces parcles to the sheath that in turn increas- es wear and tear on ATCs and carabiners. Dirty ropes are hard to handle and should be washed appropriately. d. Use only water to clean dirt off of so goods. Use a so brush to re- move tough dirt. e. Dry so goods thoroughly before packing them. f. Instructors should inspect all so goods before and aer a trip for abra- sions, fading, cuts and deformaons. g. For ropes: core shots, so spots and sheath damages including rips and glazing should be removed from service immediately. h. If you noce something damaged or are quesoning a piece of equip- ment it nofy the Climbing Coordinator. 2. Hard Goods a. Includes cams, stoppers, hexes, Tri-cams, carabiners, and belay devices. b. Dirt from ropes can where grooves into carabiners and sharp edges into belay devices. Dirt can get into gates of carabiners and springs of cams causing them to sck. c. Prevenon is key: keep gear out of the dirt and sand whenever possible. c. Cams should be cleaned with mild soapy water and scrubbed. Apply a drop of Teflon lubricaon to the springs when dry. d. Instructors should inspect hard goods for: rust, scky gates, poor cam- ming acon, deformaons, grooving, fraying, etc. e. Any hardware that is dropped more than 15 feet onto a hard surface should be inspected immediately and given to the Climbing Coordinator for review. Belaying 1. Belay Refresher a. Give a refresher to all parcipants. (Lesson plans for teaching belaying is in the next secon) b. Cauon: belaying outdoors has less fricon in the top rope system than many top rope systems in climbing gyms. 5 Climbing c. Cauon: longer climbing routes outdoors allows for more rope stretch then indoors, so keep a ght belay for the first 20’. d. Demonstrate the enre belaying/climbing sequence first. e. The belay sequence and verbal signals will be pracced by all parci- pants before any person is allowed to belay on site. f. An Instructor should provide a back up belay for everyone the first me they belay on a trip. g. Pay close aenon to the belayer’s mechanics and brake hand. h. If a belayer does not show competency then they are not allowed to belay. 2. Belay Method a. T/PBUS: Take/Pull, Break, Under, Slide method is the only belay tech- nique taught to parcipants. b. Guide hand pulls down on rope, brake hand pulls rope up and quickly returns to brake posion, guide hand grabs below the brake hand and brake hand slides up closer to belay device. Connue sequence. c. The brake hand must never let go of the brake strand of the rope! d. When belayer is not drawing in rope they should be in a brake posion. e. Belayer should stand in an athlec stance, close to the wall. f. GRIGRIs are Instructor tools NOT for parcipants to use on EE climbing trips. 3. The Climber a. The climber es in to the other end of rope with Figure 8 Follow- through to harness with a half of a double fisherman’s knot to finish it.
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