Rock Climbing
Revision 9 July 2019
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EE Climbing Philosophies 1. To provide par cipants with a professionally facilitated rock climbing experi- ence. 2. To provide par cipants with knowledge about all aspects of rock climbing. 3. To introduce par cipants to healthy and posi ve recrea onal ac vi es. 4. Allow Instructors opportuni es to grow as leaders and Instructors. 5. To help individuals learn to depend on themselves by responding to progressive physical and mental challenges. 6. To promote trust and responsibility. 7. To experience the pleasure of standing in high places. Instructor Responsibili es/Expecta ons 1. Must maintain professionalism throughout course. 2. At least 1 Instructor should be familiar with the climbing area. 3. Select climbs that are appropriate for the skill level of the par cipants. 4. Instructors should inspect all climbing gear at the beginning of each day. 5. Instructors on each trip should have accessible: a. First Aid kit b. Knife c. Prusik cord d. Extra locking carabiners e. 4’ sling f. GRIGRI or Cinch g. ATC 6. EE Instructor to student ra o is 3:9 7. Maintain high level of situa onal awareness using the SHERPA model. a. Site Hazards: rock fall, access, anchors top/bo om, tripping hazards, etc. b. Environmental Risks: weather, other climbers, bees, etc. c. People: evalua on of leadership and par cipant i.e. physical, mental and technical ability. d. Anomalies: awareness of events that deviate from normal. Trip Leading Tasks Basics: 1. 3 Instructors are necessary, 4 Instructors max: a. 1 Lead b. 1 or 2 Assistants c. 1 Appren ce 2. Trainees and are not expected to perform leadership tasks except upon request.
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3. Set up at most 3 ropes. Be considerate of other climbers/groups. Remember to have an Instructor oversee each rope system. 4. If the group stops using a rope, take it down. Pre-Trip Mee ng: 1. Follow all Office/Logis c procedures which can be found on the “Instructor Resources” webpage. 2. Send out an email outlining the Pre-Trip mee ng me/loca on and when the belay classes at the wall occur. 3. Meet with the Instructor team and go over plan for the pre trip and trip. 4. Pre Trips (mandatory) a. Introduc ons, risks b. Loca on, mes, weather, what to bring, highly encourage par cipants to get belay cer fied at wall before the trip. c. Equipment pull/pack Day of Trip: 1. Show up at least 15 minutes ahead of scheduled par cipant arrival me to get vehicles and let par cipants in the office. 2. Instructors welcome par cipants, check to see if they brought water, rain gear, and closed-toe shoes. 3. Send out Emergency Ac on Plan (EAP) before departure. 4. Instructors double check that they have all their equipment and the trip folder. At Climbing Site: 1. 2 Instructors set up ropes, check each other’s anchors and head down. 2. 1 or 2 Instructors go over site management, harnesses, helmets, other lessons while wai ng for ropes to be set up. 3. Go over belaying. (See belaying sec on). 4. Lessons on climbing movement or other lessons. 5. Instructors rotate through observing the different belay sta ons. Post-Trip: 1. Make par cipants bring their gear up to the lockers to check back in. 2. Lay out all the gear and take inventory. 3. Put everything away in the locker. 4. Have par cipants complete trip evalua ons. 5. Complete course paperwork (Outdoor Trip Report and Instructor Evalua ons) when you get back and return it to the Climbing Coordinator's mailbox. Risk Management 1. Helmets a. MUST be worn by anyone standing above or below the climbing area or in the rock zone. b. MUST be worn on all 4th and 5th class terrain.
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c. MUST be worn any me there is danger of rock fall. d. Helmet must be fi ed properly. Level on head and chin strap secured. e. Helmets can be removed in a designated area away from poten al rock fall and climbers. 2. Harnesses a. MUST be doubled backed and tails tucked in keeper loops on harness. b. MUST be secured just above their hip bones and fully ghtened. c. Par cipants may use their own harness based on the Instructors’ deci- sion regarding: wear and tear (thread damage/fading), harness design and func on for the ac vity, commercial design. d. Climber’s rope must pass through the waist belt and leg loop hard points. e. Belay loop is for belaying/rappelling and personal anchor tethers. 3. Equipment Check a. All instruc onal equipment including: cams, stoppers, runners/slings, carabiners, ropes, harnesses and helmets must be inspected before using in the field. b. Harnesses, knots, belay device, and helmets must be checked before par cipants start to climb. Ideally, this is done by an Instructor and the belayer at the bo om of the climb. 4. Rope Inspec on a. Inspect all ropes prior to leaving. b. Upon returning from a Sport Climbing trip report any substan al abuse each rope may have sustained on the rope log. d. Ropes must be washed a er every mul -day climbing trip as well as at the end of each semester. 5. The Edge a. No one (this includes Instructors) may stand closer than their height to the edge of the cliff without being ed in. b. Instructors must be ed in if they are near the edge, but may be on a length of rope that allows for movement around the climbing site. 6. Rock Fall/ Falling Objects a. Inform par cipants that if they see a rock falling or dislodge a rock yell “rock.” b. If they hear “rock” yelled from above get close to the wall, hide under helmet and look straight ahead. 7. Bouldering a. Do not allow bouldering below a roped climber. b. Do not allow bouldering without proper spo ng and pads. 8. Par cipants a. Have par cipants remove objects from body and clothing that could lead to injury. (i.e. rings, large earrings, necklaces)
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b. Have par cipants tuck loose clothing into harness. c. Put long hair in a ponytail or under the helmet. d. Encourage par cipants to stretch before climbing. Care of Equipment 1. Always carry equipment in a bag/bin. Never place climbing equipment on any impermeable surfaces (asphalt parking lots/roads) or in the a trunk of a vehicle. Chemicals from vehicle ba eries and fluids can severely damage climbing equip- ment and it may not be apparent! 2. So Goods a. Includes: webbing, slings, ropes, helmets, shoes, etc. b. Webbing is 1” tubular nylon, cordele e is 7mm nylon, Prusiks are 6mm nylon, sta c ropes are 10mm, dynamic ropes are 10.2mm c. Stepping on rope introduces par cles to the sheath that in turn increas- es wear and tear on ATCs and carabiners. Dirty ropes are hard to handle and should be washed appropriately. d. Use only water to clean dirt off of so goods. Use a so brush to re- move tough dirt. e. Dry so goods thoroughly before packing them. f. Instructors should inspect all so goods before and a er a trip for abra- sions, fading, cuts and deforma ons. g. For ropes: core shots, so spots and sheath damages including rips and glazing should be removed from service immediately. h. If you no ce something damaged or are ques oning a piece of equip- ment it no fy the Climbing Coordinator. 2. Hard Goods a. Includes cams, stoppers, hexes, Tri-cams, carabiners, and belay devices. b. Dirt from ropes can where grooves into carabiners and sharp edges into belay devices. Dirt can get into gates of carabiners and springs of cams causing them to s ck. c. Preven on is key: keep gear out of the dirt and sand whenever possible. c. Cams should be cleaned with mild soapy water and scrubbed. Apply a drop of Teflon lubrica on to the springs when dry. d. Instructors should inspect hard goods for: rust, s cky gates, poor cam- ming ac on, deforma ons, grooving, fraying, etc. e. Any hardware that is dropped more than 15 feet onto a hard surface should be inspected immediately and given to the Climbing Coordinator for review. Belaying 1. Belay Refresher a. Give a refresher to all par cipants. (Lesson plans for teaching belaying is in the next sec on) b. Cau on: belaying outdoors has less fric on in the top rope system than many top rope systems in climbing gyms.
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c. Cau on: longer climbing routes outdoors allows for more rope stretch then indoors, so keep a ght belay for the first 20’. d. Demonstrate the en re belaying/climbing sequence first. e. The belay sequence and verbal signals will be prac ced by all par ci- pants before any person is allowed to belay on site. f. An Instructor should provide a back up belay for everyone the first me they belay on a trip. g. Pay close a en on to the belayer’s mechanics and brake hand. h. If a belayer does not show competency then they are not allowed to belay. 2. Belay Method a. T/PBUS: Take/Pull, Break, Under, Slide method is the only belay tech- nique taught to par cipants. b. Guide hand pulls down on rope, brake hand pulls rope up and quickly returns to brake posi on, guide hand grabs below the brake hand and brake hand slides up closer to belay device. Con nue sequence. c. The brake hand must never let go of the brake strand of the rope! d. When belayer is not drawing in rope they should be in a brake posi on. e. Belayer should stand in an athle c stance, close to the wall. f. GRIGRIs are Instructor tools NOT for par cipants to use on EE climbing trips. 3. The Climber a. The climber es in to the other end of rope with Figure 8 Follow- through to harness with a half of a double fisherman’s knot to finish it. b. The proper way to connect the belay rope to the climber’s harness is through the waist belt and leg loop hard points ( e-in points). 4. Belay Check a. In the climber and belayer check system, the climber and the belayer check each other’s: i. harness (fi ed correctly and the buckle is “doubled back”) ii. knots ( ed correctly and dressed) iii. belay device (threaded correctly and hand on brake) iv. squeeze checks on all carabiners and ground anchor (standing ght against anchor). 5. Commands a. “On Belay?”: Asked by climber and answered by belayer. b. “Belay’s On”: Responded by belayer when belay is ready. c. “Climbing”: Called by climber when he/she is ready to start climbing. d. “Climb On”: Answered by belayer when ready. e. “Slack”: Requested by climber, if needed.
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f. “Falling”: Called by climber if he/she falls. Helpful to belayer, but not mandatory. g. “Take/Tension”: Called by climber if too much slack develops; climber may need to slow down or when the climber wants to lower h. “Got you”: The belayer has removed the slack and is prepared for the climber to sit back on the rope. i. “Ready to Lower” The climber has sat back on the rope and is ready to be lowered. j. Lowering”: The belayer informs the climber they are being lowered k. “Off Belay”: Called by climber once they are on the ground. l. “Belay Off”: Response from belayer. Terminates the contract. m. “Rock!”: Used by anyone, if anything is falling, as appropriate. Back‐up Belay WHY: To have a redundancy in the belay system, give par cipant something ac ve to do while wai ng to climb. 1. Every program par cipant belaying must start with a back-up. On climbing trips with par cipants that are belay cer fied at the climbing wall belaying by them- selves is at the discre on of the Instructors. 2. The back-up belayer should be posi oned slightly behind the belayer and on the same side as belayer’s brake hand and keep at least one hand on the brake strand. The rope should be slightly slack, making a “smiley face.” The back-up can help stack the rope and keep it on the tarp and out of the dirt. Ground Anchor/Belayer Tie‐in WHY: Lack of belay integrity i.e. weight difference, belaying away from the wall, pitch over half a rope length. 1. While belaying a lead climber with a weight difference ground anchors should be employed. 2. A ground anchor should be secured to a tree, boulder or another par cipant si ng (where no trees or boulders exists) where the Instructor judges it is nec- essary. 3. Setup: a. Use the end of the climbing rope or webbing/sling/cordele e as an anchor to a tree or rock. b. If no tree or rock exists at the belay site, another par cipant can sit behind the belayer and be the anchor. c. A ach the belayer to the anchor with a locking carabiner to their belay loop. The anchor line should be on the side they brake on. d. Belayer stands with e-in ght (no slack) so he/she can’t be pulled away and into the wall. b. Belayer stands in line with direc on of pull from climber so he/she cannot be pulled sideways. This is known as ABC alignment (Anchor, Belayer, Climber).
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Belay Escapes WHY: Belayer or climber has become incapacitated or non-func onal. For example; bee s ng, stuck climber, emo onal outburst or fain ng. These methods are used to escape a belay line. 1. Bo om Managed Sites a. Instructor takes backup belayers job and lowers climber through ATC on incapacitated belayer. b. Belayer needs a takeover and climber is NOT weigh ng the rope. i. Instructor es a C “catastrophe” knot (over hand on a bite), 3 feet behind belay device of belayer. ii. Place GRIGRI on brake strand between C-knot and belayers belay device. iii. Take over belaying through GRIGRI and have belayer remove belay device. c. The climber is weigh ng the rope: Pick Off and Lower. i. Instructor es a C-knot 3 feet behind belay device of belayer. ii. Place GRIGRI on brake strand between C-knot and belayers belay device. Create a transfer system. iii. A ach a fric on hitch (Prusik) on load strand above belay device. iv. Girth Hitch 4’ sling to belayer’s belay loop. v. A ach 4’ sling to Prusik with locker. vi. Have belayer lean back on Prusik and take weight of climber. vii. Remove the par cipants belay device and take over with GRIGRI. viii. Remove 4’ sling from belayer and rea ach it to the Prusik. ix. Ascend the rope to climber using 4’ sling and Prusik. x. Tie C-knot every 6’ as you ascend and when you reach the climber. xi. Create counter balance rappel system. xii. A ach 4’ sling to belay loop of climber. xiii. A ach sling to your belay loop remove the Prusik. xiv. Lower to ground together remove C-knots. 2. Top Managed Sites a. Belayer is incapacitated or non-func oning with a backup belayer pre- sent. i. lower to ground. ii. see 3:1, 3:1 assist and 5:1 raises in top managed site sec on. Belay Lesson Objec ves: Have everyone be able to: 1. Tie in with a figure eight 2. Belay using the T/PBUS method
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3. Partner check and say the commands Time: 1 hour + Plan (for 2-3 Instructors): 1. Introduc ons: a. Names. b. Waivers, risks of climbing. c. Global demonstra on of climbing and belaying with 2 Instructors. d. Go over objec ves of the class. e. Outline skills covered. 2. Equipment a. What is it (belay device, rope, carabiner, harness)? b. How to put on a harness. c. How to e a Figure 8. 3. Belaying a. Set up (body posi on, belay device). b. Mo on (T/PBUS). c. Partner check. d. Commands. 4. Prac ce (on the ground) a. Partner up. b. Commands. c. Climbing and lowering (Hazards of too fast/slow). 5. Demonstra ons a. Actual belay prac ce with climber on a par al climb (Instructor back up). b. Actual belay prac ce with climber on a full length climb (Instructor back up). 6. Conclusion a. Ques ons? b. Keep prac cing! c. Take the test during open hours. Climbing Movement Technique Lesson Objec ves: 1. Teach the progression of climbing movements beginning with the fundamentals of balance, foot and hand technique. 2. Promote fluidity, efficiency and grace of mo on. By means of experien al edu- ca on! Time: 1 hour
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Plan (for 2 Instructors): 1. Balance a. Think of climbing as “moving from one balance posi on to the next” b. Sta c balance: Stand on one leg with feet shoulder-width apart. You weight should shi over that foot you are standing on. c. Center of Gravity: men– just below belly bu on, women– slightly lower then men 2. Foot Technique a. Feet posi oning- demonstrate balance triangle. Triangles are stable! b. A climber with their feet at equal height and wide apart and their hands close together will naturally be in a more res ul/balanced posi on. c. Triangle 1—feet wide, hands close together, easy to move hands d. Triangle 2—inverted, hands wide, feet close. Cannot move hands, great threat of barn-dooring/swinging out. e. Note: in order to move side to side and in effect shi ones weight, you have to use upper body strength in order to compensate for being out of balance with one foot off the wall. 3. Prac ce Ac vity a. Make them climb with tennis balls in their hands. Choose an easy slab climb. Have them focus on foot work and weight shi ing. 4. Hand technique a. Lay out types of holds, crimps, jugs, slopers, pockets. b. Explana on of how to posi on hands on said holds. 5. Moves/Terms
a. Edging, stemming, Smearing, layback, back-step, drop knee, heel-hook, toe-hook, crack climbing, jamming, etc. 6. Advanced a. Talk about dynamic balance (movement that relies on mo on for bal- ance) b. Make them walk slowly in exaggerated steps and make them freeze at any me. c. A good way to get be er is prac ce slow mo on climbing, so in essence try to make your climbs less “jerky.” Knots 1. Par cipants should be taught a. Figure 8 Follow-Through: Used to e rope into harness. Knot should be dressed and the loop made by rope should be no bigger than belay loop. Finish the Figure 8 with a half of a Double Fisherman's knot. 2. Instructors should know a. Figure 8 on a Bight and Figure 8 Follow Through b. Double Fisherman’s
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c. Bowline, Double Bowline and Bowline on a Bight d. Prusik, Autoblock, Kliemhiest (see Appendix for uses) e. Girth Hitch, Tensionless Hitch f. Munter, Munter Mule (see Appendix for diagrams) g. BHK, Overhand, Overhand on a Bight Bouldering 1. Demonstrate proper spo ng technique: athle c stance, a en ve with hands out (thumbs in). 2. It is important to guide the hips (ver cal walls) or shoulders (cave) of the falling climber. 3. Do not allow bouldering above 12’. 4. The climber should on feet, stay relaxed but absorb the impact through your en re body, flex at your knees. 5. Use a bouldering pad when appropriate. Top Rope Set Ups Rope Management 1. Stepping on rope increases the amount of dirt on the sheath which in turn wears on aluminum ATCs and carabiners. Dirty ropes are also hard to handle while belaying and rappelling. See equipment care sec on. 2. At the belay sta on, a rope bag or tarp should be spread under the rope to protect it from the dirt. 3. There should all ways be a stopper knot at the end of the belay side of the rope. 4. Ropes MUST be lowered from top of climbs and not thrown off in one large pile. A 12lb rope does not hurt any less than a 12lb rock. 5. Protect ropes, slings and webbing from abrading rock or on each other with carpet pieces, padding or clothing. 6. Coiling Rope: Demonstrate and give par cipants the opportunity to learn how to coil a rope properly (ex. bu erfly). Also explain rope management at be- lays including flaking and stacking. 7. Climber/Instructor must never un e or “walk off” the top of a bo om man- aged site to clean a top rope anchor. Natural Anchor Systems (see Appendix for diagrams) 1. There must be at least 2 anchors (i.e. 2 natural pieces of protec on or 2 ar fi- cial anchors each with gear who’s combined strength equal 30KN. 2. Natural anchors generally consist of a sta c line around a well-rooted tree, a sta c line around a secure boulder or rock outcropping. 3. Ar ficial anchors consist of two sets of three or more protec on devices (nuts, camming devices, hexes, etc.) or bolts and hangers (each ar ficial anchor set should equal 30KN or more). 4. Combina ons of 1 ar ficial and 1 natural anchor is acceptable. 5. Test for solid rock and trees/boulders are firmly in place before using them as anchors.
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6. Anchors should be ASRENE a. Angle: The angle between individual and primary anchors should be less then 90 degrees to reduce mul plica on of forces. b. Solid: The individual and primary anchors and the system as a whole must be “bombproof.” c. Redundant: Have backup or hail safes in a system. Should focus on protec on pieces, the master point and rigging materials. d. Equalized: Refers to distribu ng, as equally as possible, any poten al loading to the various primary anchors in the system. e. No-Extension.: Means that if one of the anchors is the system should fail, the en re system will not suddenly become slack and drop the climber a short distance thus loading the remaining anchors. 7. Use two locking carabiners that are opposite and opposing on the master point for bo om managed sites. These master point carabiners should extend from edge and in hang in free space. 8. Build anchor systems in line with the direc on of pull and climbing route. 9. The Bowline, Double Bowline, Bowline on a Bight and a Tensionless Hitch are all acceptable knots to build a natural anchor with. 10. Anchor Checks: Anchors are typically set by 1 Instructor who checks them him/ her self, and then they are checked by another Instructor. 11. Try to have top anchors and belay anchors set, checked and ready to go when par cipants arrive. Ar ficial Anchors (see Appendix for diagrams) 1. ASRENE applies 2. Ar ficial anchors should contain at least three pieces of gear that equals 30KN. 3. Two three piece (30KN) anchors equal one tope rope set up for the EE climbing program. 4. STAMP IT acronym will help determine the quality of each piece of gear. a. Size of the piece: Put in the largest piece of protec on that will fit securely. b. Type of piece: Choose an appropriate type of protec on for the spe- cific situa on. 1. Wedging 2. Slinging 3. Camming /expansion. c. Angle of pull. Set the pro/anchor for appropriate direc on of pull and ensure that sling angles in the system are less than 90 degrees. d. Mul plica on of force: Minimize the ways in which force is increased on protec on and anchors. Force is increased by: leverage - e off pro- tec on (trees, pitons, ice screws) low and avoid protec on loaded over an edge, vectors - keep sling angles less than 90 degrees, shock loading - eliminate unnecessary slack in the system. e. Placement quality. Consider amount of surface area in contact with the rock, quality of the rock, direc on of pull, size of the piece, type of piece. The rock should be solid and pro should be placed away from edges and other natural weaknesses.
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f. Impact force: To insure the strongest possible anchor connect several pieces together with a cordele e or equalized arrangement. This dis- tributes the impact force amongst several pieces rather than just one. g. Test it: Inspec ng the whole system under a simulated load. Adjust cordele e, carabiner gates, reset pieces, extend slings etc. un l it’s bomber. Look for carabiners loaded over edges and gates facing the rock. Other Anchors 1. Bolt Anchors without tether op ons (see Appendix for photos). a. There are many different op ons for a two bolt anchors. Use the one that best fits the situa on. 2. Bolt Anchors/ar ficial gear anchors with extended master point (see Appendix for diagrams) WHY: This varia on can be used when top belaying, running an ins tu onal rappel, using a tether on a two bolt anchor or when you want the security of being tethered to the both ar ficial anchors. a. Cau on: one bolt is not considered enough for a personal anchor. b. Build two master points, one above the cliffs edge and one below. c. A ach the tether line to the master point above the cliff’s edge with a Figure of 8 on a Bight. There should be slack in the tether line coming from the top anchor to the connec on at the master point above the cliff. d. Use the bo om master point for the top rope set up. Rappelling WHY: Rappelling is a common ac vity that heavily relies on the par cipant. As an In- structor you want to maintain control yet allow the par cipant the freedom to experi- ence the rappel. 1. The Ins tu onal Rappel fits the above the criteria and is used for par cipants. 2. Instructors rappelling a er a set up you need to use an Autoblock. 3. Anchors for the rappel rope and the belay rope can be the same. 4. The rappel rope will be connected to the harness with a rappel device and lock- ing carabiner. The belay rope should be ed to the par cipant the same as if they were climbing. 5. Preven on! Be sure that par cipants tuck shirts, sweaters, and jackets under their harnesses, jewelry is taken off or is out of the way, and that hair is pulled back. Warn them that fingers, helmet chin straps, and beards may also become caught in the descender. 6. If there are sharp edges at the cliff’s edge, install a carpet square to protect both the rappel and belay ropes. 7. Proper rappelling posi on: feet flat against the rock, shoulder width apart, knees slightly bent. Emphasize that the rappeller controls rate of descent with his/her brake hand. 8. Close the rappel and belay system. Tie a stopper knot in both ends of the rappel rope and e the belay line off to the anchor.
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9. Consider having one instructor or par cipants at the bo om of the rappel as a “greeter.” 10. Verbal rappel signals: a. “On belay?” rappeller asking belayer. b. “Belay’s on” response by belayer. c. “On rappel!” called by rappeller to people below. d. “Clear!” called by people below to indicate that site is clear. e. “Off belay! called by rappeller when on the ground. f. “Belay’s off” answer by belayer. g. “Off rappel” called by rappeller when un ed and descender is removed. Rappel Setups: Using two separate dynamic ropes 1. Rappel rope on bo om master point (closest to edge). Belay rope on top master point (closest to the anchor points). 2. Build a top rope anchor. 3. Tie two BHK master points (remember to leave enough tail on the last BHK to e a backup knot). 4. Create the rappel. a. Tie an Overhand on a Bight to one end of the rope. b. Clip Overhand on a Bight to bo om master point. c. Add a second HMS to lower master point. d. Lower rappel rope with knot on end. e. Clip the rappel rope HMS on lower master point and pull up slack. f. Tie Munter Mule on HMS. g. Pull 4’ of slack from the back strand of the Munter Mule and clip it to a locker on the lower master point with an Overhand on a Bight. 5. Create the belay. a. Tie into one rope (belay) with a Figure 8 and Clove Hitch the end to the upper master point. Adjust the Clove Hitch to be able to see over the edge. b. Flake rope over your tether line c. Clip an HMS to the upper master point. d. Toss the free end of the rope to par cipant and have them e in. e. Set up the Munter with the belay rope in the upper belay point. f. Belay par cipant to rappel rope. 6. Set up par cipant on the rappel rope. 7. Keep a loose belay while rappelling (if the rappeller is going too fast, ghten the belay and force them to slow down). Rappel Rescues WHY: In the event of a jammed descender, or something caught in the device and the rappeller gets stuck, use a rappel rescue technique.
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1. Lock off belay: with a Munter Mule. 2. Release the Mule knot on the rappel rope keeping had on the brake strand. 3. Slack the rappel rope and have par cipant remove stuck object. 4. Pull in slack on rappel rope and re e Mule knot. 5. Tell par cipant to put their hands back in rappel posi on. 6. Remove Mule knot on belay rope while maintaining hand on the break line. 7. Slack the belay rope. 8. Rappeller con nues to rappel. Top Belayed Climbing Systems WHY: Top belayed climbing systems would be employed when an Instructor has led a route, the climbing routes are more the half a rope length or the climbing site does not have comfortable belay site below. 1. Sequence for a top belayed site: a. Determine the logical anchor and belay loca on for route. b. Determine the method of belay: GRIGRI or Munter. c. Extend instructors leash to be able to see climber all the way to the bo om. d. Set up Belay. 2. Munter a. Place a HMS carabiner on Master Point. b. Create Munter on HMS. c. Go to belay loca on. 3. GRIGRI a. Extend the GRIGRI to belay loca on just above belayer. b. Set up GRIGRI and belay. 4. Lowering a. Munter must have a Prusik backup. b. GRIGRI must be a locking carabiner redirect on the brake line or use a Petzl Ferino carabiner. 5. Transi on on top belayed climbs: When the climber reaches the top, a rota on occurs: a. The climber asks for enough slack to step a body length away from the edge (si ng down is always wise) and goes off belay by saying “Off Be- lay.” b. Belayer then checks that climber is secure (far enough away from edge), and then says “Belay’s Off,” at which point the belay contract is complete. Assisted Raises WHY: If a climber is having difficul es with the pitch. You need to assist the climber in pulling one or more moves on the climb. (See Appendix for diagrams). For all of these system a GRIGRI must be used to belay. So if the climb is hard or you think the par ci- pant will have a hard me set up the top belay with a GRIGRI.
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1. 3:1 a. Use a GRIGRI b. A ach Prusik to load line. c. Clip brake strand to Prusik with locking carabiner. d. Pull up and back on brake strand. 2. 3:1 assist a. Tie a C-knot on brake strand next to GRIGRI. b. Lower a loop of rope down to climber. c. Have the climber hold up the rope and slide a carabiner down to the climber. d. Instruct them to clip the carabiner to their belay loop. e. Instruct them to pull on the brake strand coming out of the GRIGRI. f. You pull on the strand coming out of the carabiner clipped to the climb- er. g. Remove C-knot and begin pulling. 3. 5:1 a. A ach Prusik to load line. b. A ach 4’ sling to master point. c. Bring the sling through a carabiner on the Prusik. d. A ach carabiner to the other end of the sling and a ach belay strand of climbing rope to it. v. Pull on belay strand. Sport Climbing Policies 1. Sport Climbing Lead Instructor Cer fied (see cer fica on checklist) 2. The Instructor needs to demonstrate competency in all aspects of leading. 3. Belaying a. Par cipant must be lead belay cer fied before belaying a lead climber. This cer fica on is best done at the climbing gym. b. Par cipant must have a back-up belay un l the Instructor judges that they are capable and comfortable belaying a lead climber. c. Instructor must insure that belayer has a solid stance before climber begins climb. d. A ground anchor should be used for a belayer if there is a weight differ- ence. 3. Climbing a. Par cipant must be lead climbing cer fied at the climbing wall before doing their first mock lead outdoors. b. Par cipants must perform a mock lead before performing their test lead climb outside.
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c. Mock lead means the par cipant must be on top rope while leading with a second rope. d. The top rope should always keep the par cipant safe, but allow for a mock lead fall where appropriate. e. A test lead climb must be performed before the par cipant is allowed to lead climb. The Lead Instructor decides when the party is ready to lead outside. Par cipant’s own descrip on of climbing on lead is not an acceptable replacement to this policy. f. Par cipant must be able to climb on top rope two number grades above their test lead climb. g. No one can ever climb a route where a fall would cause them to hit the deck from more than 12’ off the ground. j. The 1st clip must be s ck-clipped if it is more than 12’ of 5th class climb- ing off the ground. k. S ck clipping the first bolt must be done on climbs where the Instructor believes a fall would result in injury to the climber, belayer or spo er. l. Par cipants must be spo ed for the first clip if the first clip is more than a body length above the ground. n. Bouldering pads are recommended in situa ons where a climber might be subject to injury due to sharp rocks, uneven landing sight, roots or other projec ons. o. Communicate to the belayer before you leave the ground whether you are rappelling or lowering from the anchors. 4. Descending: On the top of a half rope length or less climb (that does not have “clip-in-anchors”) the climber must go through the following procedure: a. Clip themselves independently to two bolts (usually done with 2 sewn slings or a PAS). b. Pull up 5-6’ of rope and e a Figure 8 on a Bight, which should then be clipped to their harness. c. Un e themselves from the climbing rope. d. Feed the climbing rope through the bo om most chain rings or rope appropriate anchors (the rope must be through two anchors that are appropriate for a moving rope to be in—not bolt hangers). e. Tie back into the end of the rope, un e figure eight on bite and ask for slack to be removed. f. Unclip from the anchor and ask to be lowered. 5. Route Considera ons a. No one should climb on routes where 1/4” bolts are used (3/4“ stainless steel bolts and hangers are ideal). b. Pitons are not to be used as a replacement for bolts. c. The sport climbing cer fica on cer fies Instructors to lead sport climb- ing trips only, no routes where trad gear is necessary can be climbed. d. The overall condi on of the bolts at the sight must be checked and considered worthy of a lead fall by the Lead Instructor.
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e. Climbs rated R or X should never be climbed on an EE climbing trip. f. Sport routes over half a rope length will not be done on EE climbing trips.
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Appendix
Typical Natural Anchor Setup
Typical Ar ficial Anchor Setup
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Extended Dual Master Point Anchor Setup
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Typical Bolt Anchor Setups
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Typical Crack Configura ons
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GRIGRI GRIGRI
3 to 1 3 to 1 Assist
GRIGRI
Andy Tyson and Molly Loomis: Improvis- ing Solu ons for Serious Situa ons. Pg. 130, 133, 139
5 to 1
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Andy Tyson and Molly Loomis, Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solu ons for Serious Situa ons. Pg. 45
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Andy Tyson and Molly Loomis, Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solu ons for Seri- ous Situa ons. Pg. 44
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Andy Tyson and Molly Loomis, Climbing Self Rescue: Improvising Solu ons for Seri- ous Situa ons. Pg. 56
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