Brazil: the Atlantic Forest Introtour, July 2016

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Brazil: the Atlantic Forest Introtour, July 2016 Tropical Birding Trip Report Brazil: The Atlantic Forest Introtour, July 2016 BRAZIL: The Atlantic Forest Introtour July 10th - 17th, 2016 TOUR LEADER: Nick Athanas Report and photos by Nick Athanas Brassy-breasted Tanager* – one of many neat birds coming to the feeders at Itororó Lodge The state of Rio de Janeiro is one of Brazil’s smallest (not much bigger than Maryland), but certainly the most celebrated. Its eponymous capital is one of the most beautiful and culture-rich cities in the world, and is now playing host to the superb 31st Olympic Games as I write this. This tour took place shortly before they began, but we saw the city only from a distance as we headed off the beaten track to enjoy what I believe is the region’s greatest treasure: the rainforests in and around the spectacular Serra dos Orgãos mountain range. We stayed in two fantastic eco-lodges: Regua (Reserva Ecologica de Guapiaçu) and Itororó, which we used as bases to explore the surroundings and see close to three hundred terrific birds. The group was rather small this time, only four apart from myself, and we all had a fun time. I didn’t do a formal vote for “bird of the trip”, but a few favorites mentioned at the end, in no particular order, were Brazilian Tanager, Saffron Toucanet, Large-tailed Antshrike, Streamer-tailed Tyrant, Rusty-barred Owl, Such’s Antthrush, and Firewood-gatherer. I used some of my old photos to spice up this report, but the ones taken on this tour are marked with an asterisk. www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Tropical Birding Trip Report Brazil: The Atlantic Forest Introtour, July 2016 July 10th: Everyone had arrived by 9am, so he had a head start as we drove north out of Rio. Before too long we were off the main highway and seeing our first open country birds like Southern Lapwing, Chalk-browed Mockingbird , Yellow- headed Caracara, White-headed Marsh-Tyrant, and Yellow-chinned Spinetail. Regua’s ever enthusiastic and friendly driver, Alcenir, took us down a side road to a stakeout for Streamer-tailed Tyrant, and it didn’t take long before two of these magnificent flycatchers were dancing on the power lines, putting on such a show that they ended up being one trip’s favorites. This stop also gave us a flock of Chopi Blackbirds, a lone White-rumped Swallow, and great views of a Black Hawk-Eagle soaring overhead. A few minutes later we arrived at Regua Lodge and had time to look at the feeders before lunch – Azure-shouldered and Sayaca Tanagers perched side by side giving us textbook comparison of these similar species. They were soon followed by Golden-chevroned Tanager, a blazing red male Brazilian Tanager, a noisy Red-rumped Cacique, and both Violaceous and Orange-bellied Euphonias. Impressive Swallow-tailed Hummingbirds vigilantly guarded the nectar feeders, chasing away the Glittering-throated Emeralds and Violet-capped Woodnymphs as soon as they tried to sneak in. We tried to track down some calling Purple-throated Euphonias, but instead located a fierce Ferruginous Pygmy-Owl tooting incessantly in a tree over the parking area. Streamer-tailed Tyrants After lunch, we walked the lodge’s entrance road, where the regenerating forest has become impressively tall in recent years. A nice mixed species flock greeted us almost immediately which had Planalto Tyrannulet, Gray-headed Tody- Flycatcher, Flame-crested and Yellow-backed Tanagers, and Streaked Xenops. Another flock was at the edge of the wetlands with Hooded and Green-headed Tanagers, we enjoyed a pair of White-barred Piculets tapping away on a branch at close range, and saw our first White-bearded Manakins. We spent the rest of the afternoon birding the restored wetlands. The biggest score was a male Sungrebe, a very rare bird in this area which had only returned to Regua recently, after not having been seen for years, but we also enjoyed views of White-faced Whistling-Duck, www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Tropical Birding Trip Report Brazil: The Atlantic Forest Introtour, July 2016 Brazilian Teal, Rufescent Tiger-Heron, Striated Heron, Capped Heron, Lesser Yellow-headed Vulture, Picazuro Pigeon, Greater Ani, Wing-banded Hornero, Masked Water-Tyrant, Black-capped Donacobius, and Chestnut-capped Blackbird, among others. We scoped a Maned Three-toed Sloth near the top of a huge tree on a distant hill, and we would see it in the same tree again several other times during our stay. Herds of Capybara watched us warily and several Broad-snouted Caimans lurked in the waters. We got back to the lodge as it was getting dark, where several Rusty-margined Guans had been on the feeders before clambering away into the trees. We celebrated a great start to the trip with some appetizers and Regua’s famous complimentary pitchers of Caipirinhas. Hooded Tanager* and a pair of White-barred Piculets* during our first afternoon at Regua. July 11th: It was the first of several beautiful, clear mornings as we boarded Regua’s ancient but iconic blue 4X4 Toyota. Nicholas Locke, who manages the reserve with his wife Raquel, chatted about their upcoming plans to reintroduce piping-guans and tapirs to the reserve as we headed up into the taller forest in the hills. Birds were quiet when we arrived, but things picked up quickly when a pair of gorgeous Spot-billed Toucanets came in to a nearby tree. Soon after, we called in a Scaled Antbird, a nice one to start off that family, which is well represented in the Atlantic Forest. Black- cheeked Gnateater soon followed, which was especially appreciated by some since it was a new family for them. We spent the rest of the morning birding our way down the road, adding Saw-billed Hermit, Surucua Trogon, Yellow- throated Woodpecker, Olivaceous, Plain-winged, and Lesser Woodcreepers, Spot-breasted Antvireo, Streak-capped Antwren, Grayish Mourner, Sharpbill, Swallow-tailed Manakin, Rufous-browed Peppershrike, Yellow-legged Thrush, Rufous-headed Tanager, and Yellow-green Grosbeak. Black-horned Capuchin was also a nice primate sighting for the area. After lunch we headed down to the wetlands again, where a Cocoi Heron looked on as we tracked down a singing Chestnut-back Antshrike and a pair of Yellow Tyrannulets. Taking a longer trail around the back of the wetlands, we had good success finding the endemic Sooretama Slaty-Antshrike and then located a calling Rufous-capped Motmot. A www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Tropical Birding Trip Report Brazil: The Atlantic Forest Introtour, July 2016 singing Long-billed Wren finally showed itself before we walked back around the wetlands, enjoying a lot of the same birds we had seen the previous afternoon. We spotlighted a Common Pauraque as we headed back to the lodge in the dark. Black-cheeked Gnateater July 12th:: This morning we drove down to the ocean and birded the dense scrubland known locally as restinga. Hangnest Tody-Tyrants seemed to be everywhere as we called in some shy Restinga Antwrens. These birds are endangered due to coastal development, but many ornithologists feel that they are just a localized form of the more widespread Serra Antwren. Regardless, we were still happy to see them! The scrub also had our first Guira Cuckoos and singles of Laughing Falcon, Tropical Mockingbird, and Burrowing Owl. It was almost a dead calm, which made watching for seabirds less rewarding. There were plenty of Brown Boobies around and a few Royal Terns, but unfortunately an incredibly distant albatross could not be identified to species. We walked back inland from the beach picking up Little Blue Heron, Black-necked Stilt, a few migrant shorebirds, Biscutate Swift, and Yellowish Pipit before heading back to Regua, where we finally found some Purple-throated Euphonias before lunch. The afternoon started hot and slow, but things picked up in a hurry with some frenetic activity near the edge of the wetland - a flock of Blue-winged Parrotlets started things off, but then a pair of Turquoise Tanagers really got our attention. They were soon followed by Yellow- eared Woodpecker, Bran-colored Flycatcher, White-winged Becard, Lemon-chested Greenlet, and other species we had seen on the first afternoon. Regua’s local guide, Adelie, then met us in the Toyota and took us to a nearby farm. Our hot streak continued with Whistling Heron, Pale-vented Pigeon, Striped Cuckoo, Campo Flicker, Yellow-browed Tyrant, Masked Yellowthroat, and Wedge-tailed Grass-Finch all seen quickly. Remarkably, an Ash-throated Crake sprinted across the road almost in front of a moving car, and a few minutes later we called another one across for the best views I’ve ever managed of this difficult bird. As it got dark, Adelie took us down into a pasture and proceeded to put on www.tropicalbirding.com +1-409-515-9110 [email protected] Tropical Birding Trip Report Brazil: The Atlantic Forest Introtour, July 2016 nightbird spectacle – first by spotlighting a Giant Snipe on the ground at very close range and then by getting us on to Spot-tailed Nightjar, Scissor-tailed Nightjar, and Common Potoo in quick succession. A day that started out slowly sure finished in memorable fashion! One of the Turquoise Tanagers* we saw near the wetlands at Regua. July 13th: We had a nice hike deep into the Regua reserve today. The distinctive local subspecies of White-flanked Antwren, a likely split, started things off, and then we had big mixed species flock with birds like Blue Dacnis, Yellow- backed Tanager, and Green-headed Tanager, though nothing we hadn’t seen before.
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