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The Pentland Firth - Swona the Pentland Firth - Swona

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The Pentland Firth - Swona the Pentland Firth - Swona ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 20:31 Page 362 THE PENTLAND FIRTH - SWONA THE PENTLAND FIRTH - SWONA there are many Black Guillemots and Storm Petrels which nest in the drystone walls. There is normally a large colony of Arctic Terns as well as a few Arctic and Great Skuas. Evidence of prehistoric settle- SWONA (ON Swefney, ment includes a chambered The Brook from Clump o’the Ness, west side Sweyn’s Island), now unin- cairn (ND384837) on the on their way to the same Yule modern houses. Despite being Near the mouth of the Haven Swona cattle When the last habited except for a small herd southeast side. This stalled feast from Stronsay. Sweyn evacuated in 1974 they mostly there is a dangerous rock inhabitants left in 1974 they of feral cattle, is a delightful cairn has an unusually long thus lost his father and brother remain in good condition. The called "Grimsally", no doubt left behind their cattle. Some island to the west of Burwick. chamber, but is being steadily within days. During the feast Swona people were essential- after the former Viking owner. were removed and sold in Very strong tides made this eroded by the sea. Swona is ly seamen, fishing especially It is said that knowledge of 1977 but since then they have island a graveyard to shipping. an obvious island for early in The Wells, the eddy which this skerry allowed one Viking not been fed in winter and hus- Until the advent of radar ves- habitation, with its fertile soil, forms on the ebb tide west of ship to escape while being bandry has been limited. They sels regularly went ashore in nearby fishing and strong tidal the island. Small stone skeos, chased by another ship by now form one of the very few fog and usually became total defences. huts like the cleits on St Kilda steering between this rock and feral herds of Bos taurus in the losses on the jagged rocks. were used to dry the fish. the shore. The following ves- world, which is of consider- In Norse times, a man called They also grew good barley sel's skipper was unaware of able interest to scientists. Being grazed by cattle, Swona Grim lived here, whose sons and vegetables in the planti- the Grimsally and struck it, has completely different vege- Asbjorn and Margad were fol- crues, which were fertilised by causing his ship to sink. The cattle mostly graze on the tation to sheep-grazed islands. lowers of Sweyn Asleifson. seaweed. richer grass near the houses, The luscious green sward is Just before Yule in about 1133 carpeted with wild flowers in Sweyn’s father Olaf was killed Swona has an amazingly good Chambered cairn at the south end the summer, including by Olvir Rosta and his men, harbour, The Haven, a large Primroses, Ragged Robin, who burnt his house at geo on the east side within Buttercups and Eyebright. Duncansby. Sweyn and the which a boat can lie as long as The banks have carpets of Grimsons escaped to Swona Gloup on the east side the wind is not in the east. Thrift and Cocks & Hens, and thence to Earl Paul's Hall Care must be taken to while Oysterplant thrives in in Orphir for the Earl's much drinking was done and approach at the right time of the shingle beaches. Yuletide feast. Sweyn "Breastrope" insulted the tide. There are automatic Sweyn Asleifson, saying that light beacons at each end of Puffins abound on the grassy Meanwhile Sweyn's brother, "he was a sluggard at his the island. slopes on the east side, while Valthiof and the crew of his drink" and commented, 10-oared boat were lost at sea "Sweyn will be the death of The Haven is a superbly sheltered harbour, except from the east Sweyn." Sweyn Asleifson Swona and the Pentland Firth from South Ronaldsay waited in the shadows and struck down his namesake. He then escaped through a win- dow to a waiting horse to Bishop William at Egilsay and thence to safety in Tiree. There is a small chapel dedi- cated to St Peter near the north end the island and many ruined walls in the area of the 362 363 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 20:31 Page 364 THE PENTLAND FIRTH - SWONA THE PENTLAND FIRTH - SWONA on the west side of Swona. The Longhope lifeboat landed the crew and mails from the vessel. Swedish and German salvage ships tried to save part of the vessel by cutting her in two but, because of heavy sea, this had to be abandoned. Later the after part floated off View north from Warbister Hill but grounded again half a mile Early Fordson tractor ploughing on Swona away. Most of the cargo was however they do also forage territories for the bulls. Since Shipwrecks of the 1930s lifeboat was washed ashore at out of a crew of 37. The next salvaged by tugs assisted by for seaweed, but not in the they are derived from stock Swona was notorious for ship- Deerness with no one in it, its day the Swona folk awoke to Stroma and Swona men. One intertidal zone. At present the which was bred to cope with wrecks due to its position on occupants having been lost find the bow and foremast of of the lifeboats is still in use as herd seems to be stable at the harsh climate and yet be the edge of the Pentland Firth. overboard. This was the worst the ship, the stern section hav- a pleasure boat named about 20 animals, with more placid, they seem to survive During the 1930s there were Pentland Firth disaster of the ing sunk soon after being “Aurora” and may be seen in cows than bulls. They mostly well and not to be overtly several dramatic groundings, 20th century - a loss of 29 men abandoned. Kirkwall Harbour. derive from Aberdeen Angus aggressive to each other. the last of which led to a seri- and Shorthorn stock. The ous loss of life. In 1937 "Johanna Thorden", a cows survive longer than the Visitors should take great care 3,223grt Finnish ship home- bulls and calving is in Spring, to give the herd a wide berth. In 1930 "Lord Percy", a ward bound with a general as with other Orkney cattle. The cows may appear more Grimsby trawler homeward cargo on her maiden voyage, timid than the bulls, but none bound, struck the rocks on the ran ashore on the Tarf Tail, The Swona cattle tend to stay are to be trusted. They tolerate west side of Swona. The skip- Swona, in a haze and south- together as a group rather than humans, but they should be per drowned while they were east gale, having mistaken the foraging individually, and treated as dangerous wild ani- trying to lay out a kedge new Tor Ness light for the there seems to be no system of mals. anchor with their own boat. South Swona light. Her dis- “Pennsylvania” went ashore in fog in 1931 The crew were afterwards res- tress signals were not seen and cued by Swona fishermen. her master thought they were The trawler slid off the rocks on Little Skerry. The lifeboats and sank in deep water. were launched and 25 people left in the first one. In 1931 "Pennsylvania", 3,759grt, of Copenhagen Soon after the ship broke in struck a reef on the west side two and the remaining 12 of Swona in fog. The crew crew left in the second boat. were rescued and some of the Part of the feral herd of cattle on Swona The gale had increased with a cargo was salvaged by the very heavy sea and the flood ”Gunnaren”also went ashore in the fog on the west side of Swona in 1935 Old winch and the“Hood” (built on Swona) at The Haven Danish tug "Gorm". The ves- tide swept the boats eastward sel was bought by Stromamen past the Pentland Skerries. and much of the extensive cargo salvaged before the The second lifeboat was driv- wreck broke up. en into Newark Bay, South Ronaldsay, where she cap- In 1935 "Gunnaren", a sized with the loss of 4 of the 3,229grt Swedish ship bound survivors. The remaining 8 for Stockholm with general were rescued from the shore. cargo, ran ashore in dense fog The following day the other 364 365 ogb 3 collated.qxp 26/10/2005 20:32 Page 366 THE PENTLAND FIRTH THE PENTLAND FIRTH O Ever since people arrived in ed ferryman was a man H K Orkney they have exploited called John o'Groats, U the sea for transport, food appointed by James IV and materials. We know that about 1496, to ensure com- the Vikings were especially munications with his recent- good seamen, but so were ly acquired islands. their forebears, as shown by Presumably there had been a the presence of Neolithic ferry for thousands of years and Iron Age remains on before this, but unrecorded. “St Ola I” was a familiar sight on the Firth for 59 years Chart of the Pentland Firth some of the small islands as THE PENTLAND FIRTH Stroma Lighthouse on Swilkie Point well as much evidence of The first regular Scrabster to (ON Pettaland Fjordur, islands, skerries, the sea bed fishing activity. Stromness steamship was Pictland Firth), together and weather, all of which the Royal Mail, starting in with the islands and parishes combine to create complex For centuries the Firth has 1855. The railway finally on both sides, is frequently teddies and sometimes dan- been used by cargo and arrived in Thurso in 1874 mentioned in the gerous seas.
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