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Home , Canisbay, Firth, Gills Bay, Muckle Skerry, Pentland Firth, Pentland Skerries

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THE PENTLAND - THE - SWONA

there are many Black Guillemots and Storm Petrels which nest in the drystone walls. There is normally a large colony of Arctic Terns as well as a few Arctic and Great Skuas.

Evidence of prehistoric settle- SWONA (ON Swefney, ment includes a chambered The Brook from Clump o’the Ness, west side Sweyn’s ), now unin- cairn (ND384837) on the on their way to the same Yule modern houses. Despite being Near the mouth of the Haven Swona cattle When the last habited except for a small herd southeast side. This stalled feast from . Sweyn evacuated in 1974 they mostly there is a dangerous rock inhabitants left in 1974 they of feral cattle, is a delightful cairn has an unusually long thus lost his father and brother remain in good condition. The called "Grimsally", no doubt left behind their cattle. Some island to the west of Burwick. chamber, but is being steadily within days. During the feast Swona people were essential- after the former Viking owner. were removed and sold in Very strong tides made this eroded by the sea. Swona is ly seamen, fishing especially It is said that knowledge of 1977 but since then they have island a graveyard to shipping. an obvious island for early in The Wells, the eddy which this allowed one Viking not been fed in winter and hus- Until the advent of radar ves- habitation, with its fertile soil, forms on the ebb tide west of ship to escape while being bandry has been limited. They sels regularly went ashore in nearby fishing and strong tidal the island. Small stone skeos, chased by another ship by now form one of the very few fog and usually became total defences. huts like the cleits on St Kilda steering between this rock and feral herds of Bos taurus in the losses on the jagged rocks. were used to dry the fish. the . The following ves- world, which is of consider- In Norse times, a man called They also grew good barley sel's skipper was unaware of able interest to scientists. Being grazed by cattle, Swona Grim lived here, whose sons and vegetables in the planti- the Grimsally and struck it, has completely different vege- Asbjorn and Margad were fol- crues, which were fertilised by causing his ship to sink. The cattle mostly graze on the tation to sheep-grazed . lowers of Sweyn Asleifson. seaweed. richer grass near the houses, The luscious green sward is Just before Yule in about 1133 carpeted with wild flowers in Sweyn’s father Olaf was killed Swona has an amazingly good Chambered cairn at the south end the summer, including by Olvir Rosta and his men, harbour, The Haven, a large Primroses, Ragged Robin, who burnt his house at on the east side within Buttercups and Eyebright. Duncansby. Sweyn and the which a boat can lie as long as The banks have carpets of Grimsons escaped to Swona Gloup on the east side the wind is not in the east. Thrift and Cocks & Hens, and thence to Earl Paul's Hall Care must be taken to while Oysterplant thrives in in for the Earl's much drinking was done and approach at the right time of the shingle . Yuletide feast. Sweyn "Breastrope" insulted the tide. There are automatic Sweyn Asleifson, saying that light beacons at each end of Puffins abound on the grassy Meanwhile Sweyn's brother, "he was a sluggard at his the island. slopes on the east side, while Valthiof and the crew of his drink" and commented, 10-oared boat were lost at sea "Sweyn will be the death of The Haven is a superbly sheltered harbour, except from the east Sweyn." Sweyn Asleifson Swona and the Pentland Firth from waited in the shadows and struck down his namesake. He then escaped through a win- dow to a waiting horse to Bishop William at and thence to safety in Tiree.

There is a small chapel dedi- cated to St Peter near the north end the island and many ruined walls in the area of the

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THE PENTLAND FIRTH - SWONA THE PENTLAND FIRTH - SWONA

on the west side of Swona. The Longhope lifeboat landed the crew and mails from the vessel. Swedish and German salvage ships tried to save part of the vessel by cutting her in two but, because of heavy sea, this had to be abandoned.

Later the after part floated off View north from Warbister Hill but grounded again half a mile Early Fordson tractor ploughing on Swona away. Most of the cargo was however they do also forage territories for the bulls. Since Shipwrecks of the 1930s lifeboat was washed ashore at out of a crew of 37. The next salvaged by tugs assisted by for seaweed, but not in the they are derived from stock Swona was notorious for ship- with no one in it, its day the Swona folk awoke to Stroma and Swona men. One . At present the which was bred to cope with wrecks due to its position on occupants having been lost find the bow and foremast of of the lifeboats is still in use as herd seems to be stable at the harsh climate and yet be the edge of the Pentland Firth. overboard. This was the worst the ship, the stern section hav- a pleasure boat named about 20 animals, with more placid, they seem to survive During the 1930s there were Pentland Firth disaster of the ing sunk soon after being “Aurora” and may be seen in cows than bulls. They mostly well and not to be overtly several dramatic groundings, 20th century - a loss of 29 men abandoned. Harbour. derive from Aberdeen Angus aggressive to each other. the last of which led to a seri- and Shorthorn stock. The ous loss of life. In 1937 "Johanna Thorden", a cows survive longer than the Visitors should take great care 3,223grt Finnish ship home- bulls and calving is in Spring, to give the herd a wide berth. In 1930 "Lord Percy", a ward bound with a general as with other cattle. The cows may appear more Grimsby trawler homeward cargo on her maiden voyage, timid than the bulls, but none bound, struck the rocks on the ran ashore on the Tarf Tail, The Swona cattle tend to stay are to be trusted. They tolerate west side of Swona. The skip- Swona, in a haze and south- together as a group rather than humans, but they should be per drowned while they were east gale, having mistaken the foraging individually, and treated as dangerous wild ani- trying to lay out a kedge new Tor Ness light for the there seems to be no system of mals. anchor with their own boat. South Swona light. Her dis- “Pennsylvania” went ashore in fog in 1931 The crew were afterwards res- tress signals were not seen and cued by Swona fishermen. her master thought they were The trawler slid off the rocks on Little Skerry. The lifeboats and sank in deep water. were launched and 25 people left in the first one. In 1931 "Pennsylvania", 3,759grt, of Copenhagen Soon after the ship broke in struck a on the west side two and the remaining 12 of Swona in fog. The crew crew left in the second boat. were rescued and some of the Part of the feral herd of cattle on Swona The gale had increased with a cargo was salvaged by the very heavy sea and the flood ”Gunnaren”also went ashore in the fog on the west side of Swona in 1935 Old winch and the“Hood” (built on Swona) at The Haven Danish tug "Gorm". The ves- tide swept the boats eastward sel was bought by Stromamen past the Pentland . and much of the extensive cargo salvaged before the The second lifeboat was driv- wreck broke up. en into Newark , South Ronaldsay, where she cap- In 1935 "Gunnaren", a sized with the loss of 4 of the 3,229grt Swedish ship bound survivors. The remaining 8 for Stockholm with general were rescued from the shore. cargo, ran ashore in dense fog The following day the other

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THE PENTLAND FIRTH THE PENTLAND FIRTH

O Ever since people arrived in ed ferryman was a man H

K Orkney they have exploited called John o'Groats, U the sea for transport, food appointed by James IV and materials. We know that about 1496, to ensure com- the were especially munications with his recent- good seamen, but so were ly acquired islands. their forebears, as shown by Presumably there had been a the presence of Neolithic ferry for thousands of years and Iron Age remains on before this, but unrecorded. “ I” was a familiar sight on the Firth for 59 years Chart of the Pentland Firth some of the small islands as THE PENTLAND FIRTH Stroma on Swilkie Point well as much evidence of The first regular to (ON Pettaland Fjordur, islands, skerries, the sea bed fishing activity. steamship was Pictland Firth), together and weather, all of which the Royal Mail, starting in with the islands and parishes combine to create complex For centuries the Firth has 1855. The railway finally on both sides, is frequently teddies and sometimes dan- been used by cargo and arrived in in 1874 mentioned in the gerous seas. naval ships and apart from and several other vessels Orkneyinga Saga. This fishing, pilotage was a major operated the route, until the “Wild and Open Sea” sepa- The “North of source of income for Swona, first St Ola commenced its rates Orkney from Pilot” rather Stroma and men. long period of service in “St Ola II” was the first to carry cars and ran for 23 years . blandly states that “because A dangerous occupation, 1892. Thus started the long of the very strong tidal they sometimes ended up association with what was The distance from Burwick streams, the eddies and coming home via America! P&O Scottish Ferries. to John o’Groats is about races to which these give 10km (6 miles). At the rise and the extraordinarily Traditionally the ferry ran St Ola I ran for 59 years until meeting point of the North violent and confused seas from John o'Groats to replaced in 1951 by St Ola Sea and the , which occur at times...navi- Burwick, but there was also II. She could carry 26 cars the strong tides of 10 knots gation in Pentland Firth is a ferry from Scarfskerry to and hardly ever missed a or more are impeded by attended by special prob- Brims on and on to the crossing. Roro services lems.” Mainland. The first record- started in 1974 with St Ola “St Ola III” operated the first ro-ro service for 18 years III, which was in turn replaced with the much larg- er St Ola IV in 1992. In 2002 Hamnavoe, a com- pletely new and still larger ship operated by NorthLink took over the route. Operating at 21 knots she completes the run in about Stroma Lighthouse on Swilkie Point Traditional “Stroma yoles”were used on the Firth 90 minutes. “St Ola IV” leaving Stromness for the last time in 1992

“Pentalina B” arriving at St Margaret’s Hope “Pentland Venture” leaving Burwick for John o’Groats MV “Hamnavoe” entering the Pentland Firth The short sea crossing from John o’Groats to Burwick is run in the summer months by the Pentland Venture which carries up to 250 pas- sengers, while operate the Pentalina B between St Margaret’s Hope and all year.

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THE THE PENTLAND SKERRIES

Vicksburg of Leith in 1884 in a risky operation.

When the 8,003grt ship Kathe Neiderkirchner ran ashore on the northwest side of in thick fog in 1965 the keepers guided the ship’s lifeboat to the East Landing and thus ensured the safety of the 50 The lighthouse towers from near Trae Geo on the north side of Muckle Skerry passengers and crew. The and many Puffins breed Archaeology Until the ship was carrying a cargo of Muckle Skerry from the northwest with Clettack Skerry, Louther Skerry and Little Skerry behind here. Large numbers of were built the Cuban sugar. She slipped Grey Seals come ashore to Skerries had no permanent THE PENTLAND SKERRIES, Northern Lighthouse Board. In 1895 the lower light was off the reef and sank within pup in autumn. inhabitants, although cattle 6km (4 miles) southeast of One tower was 24m high, discontinued and a much 9 hours of going ashore. Burwick are another danger- the other 18m, and a total of more powerful group flash- and sheep were pastured in Landings There are two summer. There are remains ous place for shipping, with 66 catoptric reflectors were ing system installed on the Wildlife Today Muckle landings, the main one at of at least two stalled cham- very strong tides, dangerous used in the two sets of optics taller tower. In 1939 gener- Skerry is inhabited only by Scartan Bay (ON Scarf bered cairns which have eddies and many unmarked which showed continuous ators were installed to power many breeding in Tang, Shag Point) on the been dug into as well as sev- hazards. The Skerries con- lights. the light. A German aircraft summer. The Skerries have east side and another at eral other small mounds. sist of Muckle Skerry and a strafed the site in february a similar bird population to Hunigeo on the northwest Neolithic people from South long running northeast In the 1820s it was decided 1941 but nobody was hurt. Swona, the difficult and corner. The island has low Ronaldsay may have buried from Little Skerry to to heighten the towers and often dangerous access cliffs, except on the west their dead here in a similar Clettack Skerry. Many stone was taken from A foghorn was mounted on ensuring that the wildlife is side, with several geos and way to those from Papay ships have foundered here in Herston, where a shed, the lower tower in 1909 but mostly undisturbed. There small caves. used the Holm of Papay. the past, especially in foggy which still stands today, was “due to the diminished value is a huge Arctic Tern colony weather. specially built to cut the of audible aids to naviga- freestone blocks. The high- tion” this was discontinued Lighthouse The first light- er lighthouse was increased in 2005. The lighthouse houses were erected here in to 35m and alterations were became automatic in 1994, 1794, with two towers to completed in 1833. The nearly 200 years after first distinguish them from North catoptric (reflecting) lamps being lit. Ronaldsay lighthouse. The were replaced in 1848 with work was supervised by dioptric (refracting) lamps The keepers kept cattle and Robert Stevenson and was of higher efficiency. hens. Originally they had his first work for the their families with them, but after several tragic deaths, Rami Geo on the south side of Muckle Skerry Possible chambered cairn above Rami Geo Pentland Skerries Lighthouse with its twin towers and accommodation block the families were moved to Caithness. The Skerries Neolithic chambered cairn with orthostats showing Puffins abound on the Skerries keepers on several occasions rescued seamen in difficulty. In 1871 a boy was rescued from the “boiling tideway” after the crew of the Wick boat Good Design aban- doned ship. Twelve crew were also rescued by the keepers from the barque

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